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Ube  IRural  /IDanuals 

Edited  by  L.  H.  BAILEY 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


Ube  IRural  /IDanuals 

Edited  by  L.  H.  BAILEY 
J' 
Manual  of  Gardening  —  Bailey 
Manual  of  Farm  Animals  —  Harper 
Farm  and  Garden  Rule-Book  —  Bailey 
Manual  of  Fruit  Insects  —  Slingerland  and  Crosby 
Manual  of  Weeds  —  Georgia 
The  Pruning-Manual  —  Bailey 
Manual  of  Fruit  Diseases  —  Hesler  and  Whetzel 
Manual  of  Milk  Products  —  Stocking 
Manual  of  Vegetable-Garden  Insects  —  Crosby 

and  Leonard 
Manual  of  Tree  Diseases  —  Rankin 
Manual  of  Home-Making  —  Van  Rensselaer,  Rose, 

and  Cayion 
Manual  of  American  Grape-Growing  —  Hedrich 
The  Nursery-Manual — Bailey 


THE 


NURSERY-MANUAL 


A  COMPLETE  GUIDE  TO  THE 

MULTIPLICATION   OF 

PLANTS 


BY 

L.  H.   BAILEY 


THE   MACMILLAN   COMPANY 

1950 


Copyright,  1896, 
By  L.   H.   bailey. 


New  Edition,  Completely  Revised  and  RbseTo 

Copyright,  1920, 

By   the   MACMILLAN   COMPANY. 


All  rights  reserved  —  no  part  of  this  book  may  be 
reproduced  in  any  form  without  permission  in 
writing  from  the  publisher,  except  by  a  reviewer  who 
wishes  to  quote  brief  passages  in  connection  with 
a  review  written  for  inclusion  in  magazine  or 
newspaper. 


Set  up  and  electrotyped.    Published  January,  1920. 


NoTbJOoU  Press 

J.  S.  Cuahing  Co.  —  Berwick  &  Smith  Co. 
Norwood,  Mass.,  U.S.A. 


EXPLANATION 

This  Manual  is  the  twenty-second  edition  of  the  Nursery- 
Book,  re-written  and  re-set.  The  Nursery-Book  was  first  pubHshed 
early  in  1891.  A  revision  was  made  in  1896,  as  a  third  edition, 
when  the  book  was  taken  over  by  The  Macmillan  Co.  Since  then 
it  has  been  reprinted  frequently.  For  nearly  thirty  years  the  book 
has  enjoyed  the  confidence  of  the  public  even  though  in  the  later 
years  it  has  needed  revision.  The  author  can  hardly  expect  it 
to  continue  its  career  for  another  quarter-century ;  yet  he  is  glad 
to  have  the  opportunity  to  make  it  new  again. 

The  book  deals  only  with  propagation  and  nursery  practice. 
The  temptation  is  strong  to  include  certain  related  subjects,  but 
the  work  will  probably  be  useful  in  proportion  as  it  confines  itself 
to  its  single  purpose.  Therefore  the  reader  must  not  expect  to 
find  descriptions  of  cultivation,  transplanting,  the  general  handling 
of  plants,  pruning,  seed-breeding,  or  pollination  ;  nor  has  it  seemed 
best,  in  a  practical  manual,  to  admit  discussions  of  the  interesting 
scientific  questions  more  or  less  related  to  the  subject. 

When  my  successor  shall  revise  this  book  or  make  a  new  one, 
it  is  to  be  expected  that  he  will  have  the  results  of  sufficient  matured 
investigations  to  enable  him  to  pronounce  with  confidence  on 
many  of  the  practices  that  now  rest  only  on  empirical  and  tradi- 
tional habits. 

L.  H.  Bailey. 

Ithaca,  N.Y. 
May  1,  1919. 


CONTENTS 


PARTI 

THE   CLASSES  AND   KINDS   OF   PROPAGATION 

CHAPTER 

I.     Seeds  and  Shoots    ...... 

The  phyton 

The  commerce  in  seeds   ..... 

II.     Propagation  by  Means  of  Seeds  and  Spores 

1.  The  requisites  and  conditions  of  germination 

Regulation  of  moisture 
Requirements  of  temperature     . 
Influence  of  light  on  germination 
Regermination   . 
Delayed  germination 
Keeping  seeds     . 

2.  Seed-testing 

Testing  for  viability 
Testing  for  purity 
The  complete  seed-test 

3.  The  handling  and  sowing  of  seeds  and  spores 

The  stratification  of  seeds  . 
Other  preparatory  treatment 
Transportation  of  seeds  from  abroad 
Soil  diseases ;   sterilizing 
Sowing  the  seed 
English  advice    . 
Sowing  spores     . 
Forestry  practice 


PAGES 

1-21S 


1-10 

3-4 

5-10 

11-55 

12-24 
12-19 
19-20 
20-21 
21 
21-23 
23-24 
24-33 
24-30 
31-32 
32-33 
33-55 
35-37 
37-39 
39-40 
40-44 
44-47 
48-50 
50-51 
51-55 


III.     Propagation  by  Means  of  Separation  and  Division  56-68 

1.  Separation     ........  56-62 

2.  Division 62-68 

vii 


VllI 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  PAGES 

IV.     Propagation  by  Means  of  Layers  and  Runners  69-79 

The  common  or  natural  layers  ....  70-75 

The  so-called  air-layers       .....  76-79 

V.     Propagation  by  Means  of  Cuttings     .         .         .  80-112 

1.  General  requirements  of  cuttings  ....  80-97 

Constructions  for  regulating  moisture  and  heat  80-86 

Bottom  heat 87-88 

Placing  and  protecting  the  cuttings    .         .         .  88-91 

Soil  for  cuttings          ......  91-93 

The  striking  of  cuttings 93-97 

2.  The  divers  kinds  of  cuttings  .....  97-112 

Cuttings  of  tubers      ......  98-99 

Cuttings  of  roots         ......  99-101 

Cuttings  of  leaves       ......  101-104 

Cuttings  of  stems       .         .         .         .         .         .  104-112 

1.  Hardwood  dormant  cuttings      .         .         .  104-107 

2.  Greenwood  cuttings  .....  107-112 

VI.     Propagation  by  Means  of  Budding  and  Grafting  113-171 

1.  Graftage  in  general 113-120 

Classification  of  graftage    .....  117-119 

Times  and  methods    ......  119-120 

2.  Budding 121-136 

Shield-budding 122-133 

Other  kinds  of  budding 134-136 

Prong-budding 134 

Plate-budding 134r-135 

The  patch-bud 135 

H-budding 135 

Flute-budding 135-136 

Chip-budding 136 

3.  Grafting 136-171 

The  whip-graft 138-144 

Root-grafted  vs.  budded  stock         .         .         .  141-143 

Modified  whip-grafts 143-144 

The  veneer-graft 144-146 

The  cleft-graft 146-158 

Top-working  trees  by  means  of  the  cleft-graft  151-157 

Other  uses  of  the  cleft-graft    ....  157-158 


CONTENTS 


IX 


CHAPTER 


Miscellaneous  forms  of  grafting 

Splice-grafting 

Saddle-grafting 

Side-grafting  . 

Shield-grafting 

Bark-grafting 

Bridge-grafting 

Inlaying 

Cutting-grafting 

Herbaceous-grafting 

Fruit-grafting 

Seed-grafting  . 

Inarching 

Double-working 
Graf  ting- waxes 


PAGES 

158-169 

158 

158-159 

159 

159-160 

160 

160-163 

163-164 

164-165 

165-166 

166 

166 

166-167 

167-169 

169-171 


VII.     Certain  Elements  in  Nursery  Practice 

Nursery  lands  in  relation  to  propagation 
Grades  of  trees         ..... 

Stocks  for  grafted  fruit-trees 

The  dwarfing  of  fruit-trees 

Pedigree  trees  ..... 

Trimming  trees  in  the  nursery 

The  storing  of  trees  .... 

Important   diseases   and  insects   affecting  nursery 
stock     ....... 

Diseases  caused  by  fungi  and  bacteria 
Fire-blight 

Crown-gall        ...... 

Apple-  and  pear-scab        .... 

Apple  powdery-mildew     .... 

Yellow-leaf  disease  of  cherry  and  plum    . 

Powdery-mildew  of  cherry 

Anthracnose  of  currants  and  gooseberries 

Septoria  leaf-spot  of  currants  and  gooseberries 

The  gooseberry  mildew     . 

Peach  leaf -curl 

Leaf -blight  of  pear  and  quince 

Septoria  leaf-spot  of  the  pear  . 

Raspberry  yellows    . 


172-215 

173-179 
179-182 
182-184 
184-185 
185-186 
186-187 
187-190 

190-215 
192-209 
192-194 
194-196 
196-197 
197-198 
198-199 

199 

200 
200-202 

202 
203-204 
204-206 

206 
206-207 


X                                                CONTENTS 

PAGE8 

Raspberry  and  blackberry  anthracnose    .         .             207 

Black-spot  of  roses  .... 

.     207-208 

Mildew  of  rose  and  peach 

.     208-209 

Insect  pests  of  nursery  stock 

.     209-215 

Plant-lice  or  aphids  . 

.     209-210 

Woolly  aphis    . 

.     210-211 

Red-spider 

.     211-212 

Pear  psylla 

212 

Tarnished  plant-bug 

212-213 

Apple  leaf-hopper     . 

213 

San  Jose  scale  . 

213-214 

The  pear  slug  . 

214-215 

Currant  worms 

< 

215 

PART   II 

THE   NURSERY-LIST .    217-441 

INDEX        .         „       .                   .         . 

fl 

« 

a 

c 

443 

LIST  OF  PLATES 


PAGE 


I.     A  seed  nursery.     Flower  plants  grown  for  the  crop  of  seeds  10 

II.     A  forest-tree  nursery.     Seed-beds  of  white  pine  seedlings 

two  years  old 50 

III.  Propagation  of  hydrangeas.     House  in  July ;    the  stock 

was  marketed  the  following  autumn     ....  81 

IV.  Straddle-row  tillage  in  the  nursery  .         .         .         .         .112 
V.     Tying  or  wrapping  root-grafts  by  machinery   .         .         .  139 

VI.     A  nursery  of  ornamental  stock ;    trimming        .         .         .173 

VII.     A  good  stand  of  blue  spruce 201 

VIII.     A  fruit-tree  nursery,  showing  trees  two  years  from  the 

bud 220 

IX.     Two-year  budded  cherry,  on  mazzard  and  mahaleb        .  277 

X.     First-class  dwarf  apple  stock  —  at  left  two-year  whole- 
root  grafts    .........  333 

XI.     Horse-help  in  the  nursery.     Fitting  the  land  for  nursery 

stock.     Digging  by  mule-power    .....  387 

XII.     Nursery  packing-room,  ready  for  the  equipment      .         .  423 


TCk 


THE    NURSERY-MANUAL 


PART   I 

THE   CLASSES  AND   KINDS   OF   PROPAGATION 


CHAPTER  I 
SEEDS  AND  SHOOTS 

The  earth  is  clothed  with  plants.  All  these  plants  are  the 
results  of  propagation. 

Plants  perpetuate  themselves  and  increase  their  numbers 
by  many  means.  These  means  are  sexual  (by  seeds  and  some 
kinds  of  spores),  and  asexual  (by  vegetative  parts). 

Seeds  are  the  results  of  the  fertilization  of  the  ovule  (strictly 
of  the  egg-nucleus  of  the  ovule)  by  the  germ-nucleus  of  the 
pollen-grain.  The  ovule,  with  its  integuments  and  perhaps 
\vith  adhering  parts,  ripens  into  the  seed.  Of  many  forms,  sizes 
and  colors  are  the  seeds  of  plants.  So  various  are  they  that 
we  visualize  no  seed-form,  as  we  visualize  heart-form  or  rose- 
form,  and  many  of  them  are  hardly  recognizable.  Yet  they  all 
have  this  in  common,  that  they  contain  a  dormant  or  quiescent 
embryo.  This  embryo  is  a  rudimentary  or  minute  plant. 
When  the  conditions  are  right  for  the  plantlet  to  resume  its 
growth,  we  say  that  the  seed  germinates. 

Not  only  does  the  seed  reproduce  the  parent,  but  it  disperses 
the  species.  In  fact,  the  word  disseminate  means  to  sow  or 
scatter  seeds,  although  we  now  disseminate  knowledge  as  well 
as  seeds.  The  act  of  falling  from  the  receptacle  places  the  seed 
in  a  different  position  from  that  of  its  parent  stock.  Often 
the  seed  is  carried  by  wind,  being  whirled  by  means  of  wings, 
as  in  maple  and  ash ;  floated  by  means  of  down  or  plumes,  as 
in  thistle,  dandelion  and  poplar;  driven  on  the  snow  and  ice 
from  stalks  that  stand  stiff  in  the  winter.     It  may  be  carried 

B  1 


2  THE  NURSERY-MANUAL 

on  the  coats  of  animals  and  in  clothing,  holding  fast  by  hooks 
and  barbs  of  many  kinds.  Some  seeds  are  ejected  forcibly 
from  their  capsules,  as  in  the  jewel-weed  or  touch-me-not 
and  the  witch-hazel.  Many  seeds  and  fruits  are  carried  long 
distances  in  ocean  currents ;  the  coconut  is  the  familiar  citation. 
Seeds  are  transported  in  the  removal  of  earth,  by  the  commerce 
in  many  commodities  and  by  floods  that  denude  the  land  and 
carry  away  its  substance.  All  over  the  earth  the  seeds  have 
traveled.  Clear  a  piece  of  land  ever  so  carefully,  till  it  until 
all  the  germinating  seeds  are  killed,  remove  all  the  trees  and 
mow  the  land  for  miles  around,  then  leave  the  place  alone  for 
a  few  years,  and  behold  the  vegetation  that  arises  ! 

Marvelous  are  the  seeds :  each  one  is  an  epitome  of  the 
species  condensed  into  the  minutest  space,  fashioned  every 
one  of  its  own  kind,  holding  within  its  coats  the  possibilities 
of  life  on  the  planet.  Everywhere  they  abound,  so  common 
and  so  familiar  that  they  pass  unnoticed.  We  have  never 
thought  of  a  world  without  seeds. 

The  abundance  of  seeds  is  one  of  the  most  significant  facts 
in  nature.  Every  kind  of  tree  and  bush  and  herb  yields  such 
numbers  that  it  might  populate  the  earth.  Branches  bend 
with  seeds ;  often  the  winds  are  laden  with  them ;  they  rattle 
along  the  ground  and  pile  themselves  in  the  still  places.  The 
seeds  of  begonias  and  orchids  are  as  dust.  Thus  are  the 
chances  multiplied  that  the  species  will  not  fail.  In  all  this 
profusion  one  cannot  conceive  that  sufficient  seed  will  not  fall 
on  good  ground  to  give  the  plant  its  chance  to  persist  and  to 
yield  its  fruit  after  its  kind.  Nature  is  prodigal  in  propagation. 
We  do  not  fear  that  vegetation  will  cease  from  the  earth. 

Yet  as  abundant  as  are  the  seeds,  seeming  to  make  failure 
impossible,  they  may  not  germinate  readily  even  in  a  state  of 
nature.  Many  kinds  are  contained  in  impervious  and  stone- 
like coverings  that  are  penetrated  or  broken  only  with  difficulty ; 
and  the  casings  may  have  to  rot  away  or  be  cracked  by  frost 


SEEDS  AND  SHOOTS  3 

01  accident  before  the  plantlet  can  escape.  Other  kinds  have 
a  more  or  less  definite  period  of  dormancy,  within  which  time 
they  will  not  germinate  even  though  conditions  are  favorable. 
Seeds  of  many  of  the  wild  herbaceous  perennials  will  not 
germinate  till  the  following  spring.  Other  seeds  lie  in  the 
ground  two  or  three  years  before  germination.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  seeds  of  some  species  germinate  at  once  on  maturity, 
even  while  on  the  parent  plant  as  in  the  case  of  the  mangrove. 
Special  soils  or  other  media,  as  to  acidity,  alkalinity  or  other 
qualities,  may  be  necessary  for  germination  and  growth,  or 
particular  treatment,  as  etherization,  may  yield  new  results; 
and  in  some  plants,  as  the  orchids,  it  is  now  supposed  that 
certain  fungi  are  necessary  to  germination. 

Thus  far,  the  knowledge  of  conditions  and  aptitudes  is  chiefly 
empirical,  mostly  the  result  of  repeated  and  repeated  trials, 
with  their  failures  and  successes.  We  must  always  learn  these 
requisite  conditions  by  experience;  yet  we  are  gradually  dis- 
covering a  rational  basis  for  our  operations,  and  we  may  expect 
marked  progress  in  this  direction  in  the  years  to  come,  render- 
ing the  propagation  of  plants  more  definite  and  predictable. 

THE  PHYTON 

It  is  not  alone  by  seeds  that  plants  multiply  themselves. 
Many  kinds  rarely  produce  good  seeds,  and  some  of  the  culti- 
vated species  are  multiplied  practically  exclusively  by  the  non- 
sexual and  vegetative  parts.  Familiar  examples  are  the  sweet 
potato,  horse-radish,  sugar-cane  in  the  United  States,  banana. 
Some  species  seem  to  be  losing  the  power  to  produce  seeds  with 
the  enormous  artificial  development  of  other  parts,  as  the  Irish 
potato. 

We  may  liken  a  plant  to  a  colony  of  potential  individuals, 
one  individual  being  perhaps  a  node  and  a  leaf,  one  growing 
on  another  and  the  aggregation  making  up  a  complex  organism 


4  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Every  part  of  the  plant  which,  when  removed,  is  capable  of 
reproducing  itself  and  its  parent,  may  be  considered  as  an 
entity  for  purposes  of  propagation ;  this  potential  individual 
has  been  called  the  phyton  (Bailey,  "  Survival  of  the  Unlike," 
84,  101). 

The  photon,  or  propagatable  part,  often  detaches  itself 
naturally.  Certain  willows  shed  their  twigs,  and  these  parts 
falling  in  congenial  places  may  grow  into  new  trees.  The 
offsets  of  houseleeks  (hen-and-chickens)  detach  easily.  The 
bulblets  on  the  stems  of  tiger-lilies,  the  ''top  onions,"  the 
aerial  tubers  of  cinnamon- vine  and  "air  potato,"  the  leaves  of 
brj'ophyllum,  the  leafy  tufts  on  the  fronds  of  certain  ferns,  all 
are  naturally  separable  phytons  or  vegetative  parts,  useful 
in  the  propagation  of  the  species.  In  fact,  certain  spores  are 
asexual,  at  least  not  the  result  of  direct  sexual  union,  and  are 
essentially  detachable  vegetative  bodies  or  cells. 

There  are  whole  ranges  of  plants  that  exist  in  cuLivation 
and  are  abundantly  propagated  independently  of  seeds.  Even 
though  the  plant  produce  good  seed,  the  leafy  and  stem  struc- 
tures may  afford  the  quickest  and  easiest  means  of  propaga- 
tion. The  class  of  "bulb  plants,"  represented  by  the  lilies 
and  amaryllis  and  gladiolus,  are  of  this  order.  The  hop  is 
habitually  propagated  by  cuttings,  as  are  many  of  the  orna- 
mental trees  and  shrubs;  special  varieties  of  rhododendron 
and  the  tree-fruits  are  multiplied  and  at  the  same  time  pre- 
served "true  to  name"  by  means  of  grafting;  the  cranberry 
is  grown  from  slips ;  blackberry  from  root-cuttings ;  red  rasp- 
berry from  suckers;  strawberry  from  runners;  many  kinds 
of  begonias  year  after  year  by  cuttings  of  stems  and  leaves ; 
roses  generation  after  generation  by  cuttings. 

In  great  numbers  of  domestic  plants,  seed-propagation 
rarelv  intervenes.  The  cultivator  is  so  accustomed  to  this 
fact  that  he  rightly  accepts  it  as  the  order  of  nature. 


SEEDS  AND  SHOOTS  5 


THE   COMMERCE  IN  SEEDS 

Once  a  matter  of  home-growing  and  supply,  the  trade  in 
seeds  and  bulbs  has  come  to  be  a  business  of  sufficient  volume 
in  the  United  States  to  warrant  separate  statement  in  the 
Census.  The  total  value  of  flower  and  vegetable  seeds  pro- 
duced in  1909  was  upwards  of  $1,400,000,  as  compared  with 
$826,000  ten  years  earlier ;  of  clover  seed,  $6,900,000  in  round 
numbers  as  against  $5,359,000 ;  all  grass  seed,  $15,137,000  and 
$8,228,000.  These  figures  represent  the  value  of  the  seed 
crops  themselves,  but  they  are  at  the  same  time  an  indication 
of  the  vast  agricultural  croppage  they  supply  with  seed  and  of 
the  notable  increase  in  general  crop-growing.  Aside  from 
:!:hese  reported  estimates,  the  aggregate  of  seeds  grown  and 
saved  in  the  home  garden  and  in  the  field  for  home  use  would 
undoubtedly  surprise  us  if  it  could  be  known. 

The  increasing  total  value  of  seeds  probably  does  not  indi- 
cate alone  an  increase  in  production.  Seeds  are  intrinsically 
more  valuable  decade  by  decade  because  more  carefully  grown 
and  bred.  Formerly  plant-breeding  was  mostly  a  question 
of  producing  new  kinds  or  varieties;  its  significance  now  lies 
more  in  the  bettering  of  existing  varieties  by  means  of  careful 
and  rational  selection,  whereby  yield  is  increased,  as  well  as 
quality  and  uniformity  of  stand.  The  importance  of  seed- 
breeding  is  now  so  well  accepted  in  the  public  mind  that  the 
discriminating  planter  of  staple  crops  no  longer  asks  merely 
for  "seeds"  any  more  than  the  stock-raiser  asks  merely  for 
"cows" ;  the  quality  of  the  seeds  is  as  important  to  the  corn- 
grower  as  is  the  quality  of  the  cows  to  the  dairyman.  INIany 
persons  now  make  a  particularity  of  breeding  seeds  of  staple 
crops  with  care  and  skill ;  this  business  will  increase  in  volume 
and  importance. 

So  essential  is  seed  production  to  the  welfare  of  the  people 
that  governments  have  enacted  laws  for  protection  against 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


impure,  unviable  and  misnamed  seeds,  as  similar  laws  have 
been  drawn  for  protection  in  fertilizers  and  foods.  This  body 
of  law  is  now  extensive. 


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Fig.  1.     Special  parts  of  the  United  States 


The  United  States  and  Canada  have  depended  largely  on 
Europe  for  flower  and  vegetable  seeds,  and  even  for  some  of 


SEEDS  AND   SHOOTS  7 

the  staple  field  crops,  as  sugar-beet.  The  necessary  labor  has 
been  at  command  in  Europe  and  the  growers  there  have  de- 
veloped the  requisite  experience  and  skill ;  and  the  people 
here  have  been  preoccupied  with  the  large  conquest  of  a  con- 
tinent.    The  Great  War  has  challenged  this  situation  and  has 


fj^^ 


^^".^ 


^JSS" 


for  the  commercial  raising  of  field  seeds. 


stimulated   seed-production   in   North   America;  it   is   to   be 
expected  that  we  shall  not  be  so  dependent  again.     Yet  we  shall 


8 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


need  the  seeds  from  other  countries  where  special  skill  has 
been  developed  and  the  handwork  is  available;  and,   more* 


Pro.  2.     Special  parts  of  the  countrj'  in  which 

over,  we  need  the.  comity  of  international  trade  and  supply 
if  we  are  to  develop  the  proper  fellowship  among  the  peoples 
of  the  earth.     In  proportion  as  all  peoples  are  sufficient  unto 


SEEDS   AND   SHOOTS 


i) 


themselves  will  a  real  league  of  nations  be  difficult  to  accom- 
plish. 

Prior  to  the  Vv'ar,  England  supplied  America  liberally  with 
seeds  of  beet,  turnip,  carrot,  radish,  parsley,  parsnip,  cabbage 


vegetable  seeds  are  produced  commercially. 

and  of  most  of  the  common  annual  flowers.  Germany  and 
Austria  furnished  considerable  seed  of  flowers,  and  also  of  many 
of  the  common  vegetables,  particularly  radish,  turnin,  beet 


10  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

and  carrot.  Denmark  supplied  beets  and  other  root-crops 
as  well  as  the  cabbage-like  vegetables.  France  sent  to  us 
radish,  carrot  and  seeds  of  annual  flowers.  Japan  supplied 
seeds  of  rape  and  similar  plants.  What  effect  the  War  will 
have  on  the  permanent  sources  of  seed  supply  cannot  yet  be 
stated. 

The  accompanying  maps,  Figs.  1  and  2,  show  the  special 
sections  in  the  United  States  for  the  production  of  field  seeds 
and  vegetable  seeds  respectively,  as  reported  by  R.  A.  Oakley 
in  an  interesting  article  on  "The  Seed  Supply  of  the  Nation" 
in  the  Yearbook  of  the  Department  of  Agriculture  for  1917. 

The  figures  of  seed-production  given  on  page  5  will  undoubt- 
edly be  greatly  increased  by  the  forthcoming  census.  Ap- 
parently the  United  States  requires  upward  of  110,000,000 
pounds  of  red  clover  seed,  for  example ;  at  present  farm  prices 
(1919),  the  value  of  it  would  be  about  $66,000,000. 

Persons  interested  in  the  seed-production  of  the  United 
States  should  be  in  touch  wuth  the  Seed  Reporting  Service, 
Bureau  of  Markets,  U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture,  and 
should  consult  the  Seed  Reporter,  a  monthly  publication. 

Not  only  in  seeds  but  in  bulbs  and  living  plants  have  the 
North  Americans  benefited  by  the  skill  in  plant  propa- 
gation of  the  Europeans.  Many  prized  international  relations 
have  grown  up  with  this  importation ;  a  good  literature  and 
personal  association  have  developed.  What  is  to  be  the 
future  of  this  fraternalism  is  a  source  of  anxiety  to  many 
thoughtful  persons. 


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CHAPTER  II 
PROPAGATION  BY    MEANS   OF  SEEDS  AND   SPORES 

The  seed  is  the  epitome  of  the  plant,  the  result  of  the  final 
process  of  the  plant's  activity.  To  germinate,  to  vegetate, 
to  build  its  characteristic  structure,  to  flower,  to  seed  or  to 
spore,  —  this  is  the  cycle  of  the  plant.  Some  plants  die 
when  seeding  is  accomplished,  whether  the  epoch  transpires 
within  one  twelvemonth  as  with  the  pigweed  or  within  a 
score  of  years  or  a  century  as  with  certain  agaves.  Other 
plants  flower  and  seed  perennially  for  two  or  three  years 
as  with  red  clover  and  hollyhock,  or  year  after  year  indefi- 
nitely as  with  the  lilac  and  the  forest  trees.  Yet  whatever 
the  span,  the  seed  or  the  spore  completes  a  cycle,  that  new 
individuals  may  be  born  to  continue  the  life  of  the  species. 

The  characteristic  propagative  body  of  the  flowering  plants 
(known  also  as  phenogams  and  spermatophytes)  is  the  seed. 
It  is  the  result  of  sexual  union  in  the  flower;  it  comprises  an 
embryo  contained  within  integuments,  and  usually  a  supply 
of  stored  food  to  support  the  first  growth  of  the  plantlet.  The 
characteristic  propagative  body  of  the  flowerless  plants  (known 
also  as  cryptogams)  is  the  spore ;  it  contains  no  embryo ;  it 
may  be  only  a  single  cell ;  some  spores  are  the  result  of  sexual 
union  and  others  are  not.  The  spore-bearing  plants,  when 
the  term  is  used  in  this  sense,  are  the  ferns  and  their  allies,  the 
mosses,  fungi,  algse  and  lower  forms.  Germination  is  the  act 
or  process  by  means  of  which  a  seed  or  spore  gives  rise  to  a  new 
plant.  Germination  is  complete  when  the  plantlet  has  ex- 
it 


12  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

hausted  the  store  of  food  in  the  seed  (or  spore)  and  is  able  to 
support  itself.  A  seed  may  have  sufficient  vitality  to  sprout  and 
yet  not  be  able  to  germinate.  The  word  germination  cannot 
properly  be  applied  to  the  growing  of  plants  from  tubers,  as 
of  the  potato ;  vegetation  is  the  better  term  in  such  cases.  A 
plant  arising  from  a  seed  rather  than  from  a  bulb,  cutting  or 
cion  is  a  seedling ;  and  from  a  spore  it  is  a  sporeli?ig ;  but  even 
seedlings  are  usually  not  so  called  when  they  have  attained 
some  age  and  show  the  features  of  maturity.  The  science  and 
practice  of  the  propagation  of  plants  by  means  of  seeds  and 
spores  is  known  as  seedage ;  to  the  details  of  this  subject  we 
now  proceed. 

1.    THE   REQUISITES  AND    CONDITIONS   OF   GERMINATION 

If  a  seed  is  viable  or  able  to  grow,  there  are  three  external 
requisites  to  germination  —  moisture,  free  oxygen,  and  a  definite 
temperature.  These  requisites  are  demanded  in  various  de- 
grees and  proportions  by  seeds  of  different  species,  or  even  by 
seeds  of  the  same  species  when  differing  widely  in  age  or  in 
degree  of  maturity.  The  supply  of  oxygen  usually  regulates 
itself.  It  is  only  necessary  that  the  seeds  shall  not  be  planted 
too  deep,  that  the  soil  is  porous  and  not  overloaded  with  water. 
Moisture  and  temperature,  however,  must  be  carefully  regu- 
lated. 

Regidation  of  moisture 

Moisture  is  the  most  important  factor  in  seedage.  It  is 
usually  conducted  to  the  seeds  by  means  of  soil  or  some  similar 
medium,  as  moss  or  coconut  fiber.  Fresh  and  vigorous  seeds 
endure  heavy  waterings,  but  old  and  poor  seeds  must  be  given 
very  little  water. 

If  there  is  reason  to  suspect  the  seeds  to  be  weak,  water  should 
not  be  applied  to  them  directly.  A  favorite  method  of  handling 
weak  and  also  very  small  seeds  is  to  sow  them  in  a  pot  of  loose 


PROPAGATION   BY   MEANS   OF  SEEDS   AND   SPORES     13 


and  sandy  loam  which  is  set  inside  a  larger  pot,  the  inter- 
mediate space  being  filled  with  moss,  to  which,  alone,  the  water 
is  applied.  This  device  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  3.  The  water 
soaks  through  the  walls  of  the  inner  pot  and  is  supplied  gradu- 
ally and  constantly  to  the  soil.  Even  in  this  case  it  is  necessary 
to  prevent  soaking  the  moss  too  heavily,  especially  with  very 
weak  seeds.  When  many  pots  are  required,  they  may  be 
plunged  in  moss  with  the  same  effect.  The  soil  should  be  only 
very  slightly  moist, 


never  wet.  Mois- 
ture is  sometimes 
supplied  by  setting 
the  seed-pot  in  a 
shallow  saucer  of 
water,  or  it  may  be 
sufficient  to  place  it 
in  the  humid  atmos- 
phere of  a  propa- 
gating-box.       Large   two  Pots;  aiso  a  t 

^         n  &       seeds  may  be  sown. 

but  weak  seeds  may 
be  laid  on  the  surface  of  the  soil  in  a  half-filled  pot,  covered 
with  thin  muslin  and  covered  again  with  loose  and  damp  loam. 
Every  day  the  pot  is  inspected,  the  covering  taken  off  and 
fresh  soil  added.  A  modification  of  this  plan,  for  small  seeds, 
is  made  by  placing  the  seeds  between  two  layers  of  thin  muslin 
and  laying  them  in  damp  loam,  which  is  frequently  renewed 
to  avoid  the  extremes  that  would  result  from  watering  or  from 
allowing  the  soil  to  become  dry.  In  these  last  operations, 
no  water  is  applied  to  the  seed,  and  they  constitute  one  of 
the  most  satisfactory  methods  of  dealing  with  seeds  of  low 
viability.  They  are  essentially  the  methods  long  ago  used  by 
Thomas  Andrew  Knight,  who  laid  such  seeds  between  two  sods 
cut  from  an  old  and  dry  pasture. 

Seeds  of  orchids  and  certain  other  plants  are  sometimes 


Fig.  3.    Double  seed-pot,  with  moss  between  the 
two  pots ;    also  a  block  of  wood  on  which  certain 


14  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

sown  on  the  end  of  a  porous  block  of  wood  that  is  placed  in 
a  dish  of  water,  seen  in  Fig.  3.  The  block  is  covered  with  a 
bell-glass  (Fig.  5),  or  it  may  be  placed  in  a  propagating-box. 

Even  sound  and  strong  seeds  should  be  watered  with  care. 
Drenchings  usually  weaken  or  destroy  them.  The  earth  should 
be  kept  merely  damp  in  most  cases.  To  insure  comparative 
dryness  in  indoor  culture,  a  loose  material,  as  pieces  of  broken 
pots  or  clinkers,  should  be  placed  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot  or 
box  to  afford  drainage.  It  is  to  be  borne  in  mind,  however, 
that  the  seed-bed  should  be  approximately  equally  moist 
throughout  its  depth.  The  waterings  should  be  copious  enough 
to  moisten  the  soil,  top  to  bottom.  A  wet  or  moist  surface  over 
a  dry  substratum  should  be  avoided.  Error  is  common  here. 
It  is  usually  best  to  apply  water  with  a  watering-pot,  as  water- 
ing with  a  hose  is  likely  to  wash  out  the  seeds  and  to  pack  the 
earth,  and  the  quantity  of  water  is  not  so  easily  regulated. 

At  first  thought,  it  would  seem  that  the  apparently  good 
results  following  soaking  of  seeds  are  a  contradiction  of  the 
statements  that  seeds  may  be  over-watered.  But  soaking 
is  usually  beneficial  only  when  practiced  for  a  comparatively 
short  time.  It  is  not  good  practice  to  soak  delicate  seeds  before 
sowing,  and  it  is  of  doubtful  utility  in  most  other  cases,  unless 
it  is  necessary  to  soften  the  integuments  of  hard-shelled  species, 
as  discussed  on  page  37.  The  gain  in  rapidity  of  germination 
following  soaked,  as  compared  with  dry,  seeds,  is  often  only 
apparent,  inasmuch  as  germination  actually  begins  in  the 
soaked  seed  before  the  dry  samples  are  sown.  The  soaked 
seeds  are  sown  in  water  rather  than  in  soil,  and  as  conditions 
are  more  uniform  there,  a  gain  apparently  due  to  soaking  may 
result.  In  the  case  of  certain  strong  seeds  planted  outdoors  in 
cold  or  uncongenial  soil,  a  preliminary  soaking  of  twelve  to 
twenty-four  hours  may  be  beneficial,  as  it  lessens  the  period 
which  the  seeds  would  otherwise  pass  in  untoward  conditions. 
But  soaked  seeds,  unless  of  very  hardy  species,  should  never 


PROPAGATION   BY    MEANS   OF   SEEDS   AND   SPORES     15 


be  sown  outdoors  until  the  soil  has  become  rather  dry  and 
warm.  The  soaking  of  seeds  should  always  be  regarded  as  a 
special  practice,  to  be  employed  with  caution. 

Direct  exceptions  to  these  cautions  against  over-watering 
are  provided  by  the  seeds  of  the  aquatic  plants,  as  water-lilies 
and  wild  rice  (zizania).  Such  seeds  are  usually  placed  in  balls 
or  pots  of  earth  and  then  immersed  in  water,  where  germina- 
tion takes  place. 

To  prevent  too  rapid  drying  out  in  ordinary  seed-sowing,  the 
earth  should  be  firmly  pressed  about  the  seeds.  The  pot  or  box 
should  be  given  a 
shady  place,  or  cover- 
ing may  be  applied 
to  check  evapora- 
tion. A  pane  of 
glass  is  often  placed 
over  the  pot  (Fig.  4) 

ir    box     beins"    tilted    ^^^"  ^'     Seed-pot,  covered  with  glass ;  also  a  glass- 
'      .       ^  covered  seed-case. 

a  little  at  mtervals  to 

allow  of  ventilation  and  to  prevent  the  earth  from  becoming  soggy 
or  "sour."  A  seed-case,  with  a  glass  cover,  as  shown  in  Fig.  4, 
is  neat  and  handy  in  the  treatment  of  small  seeds.  A  thin 
covering  of  fine  moss  is  sometimes  applied,  or  a  newspaper  may 
oe  thrown  over  the  pots  or  boxes.  The  seed-boxes  should  be 
protected  from  strong  direct  sunshine. 

For  the  careful  growing  of  special  plants,  the  bell-glass 
(Fig.  5)  is  most  satisfactory,  although  relatively  little  known 
in  this  country.      It  is  useful  also  in  the  rearings  of  cuttings. 

In  outdoor  culture,  only  a  naturally  dry  and  well-drained 
soil  should  be  chosen  for  ordinary  seeds,  especially  for  such  as 
are  sown  in  autumn  or  remain  in  the  ground  a  long  time  before 
germinating.  Soils  that  contain  a  liberal  amount  of  sand  or 
gravel  are  specially  valuable  for  this  purpose. 

To  prevent  drying  in  outdoor  operations,  it  is  important  that 


16 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


the  earth  be  well  firmed  over  the  seeds.  Walking  on  the  row, 
placing  one  foot  directly  ahead  of  the  other,  is  usually  the  most 
expeditious  and  satisfactory  practice,  at  least  with  large  seeds. 


Fig.  5.     Bell-glasses  of  different  forms.     The  one  at  the  left  is  the  cloche  of 

the  French. 

The  earth  may  be  fijmed  T\ath  a  hoe  or  the  back  of  a  spade, 
or  a  board  may  be  placed  on  the  row  and  then  be  thoroughly 
settled  by  walking  on  it.  For  small  lots  of  seeds,  it  is  well  to 
cover  them  with  an  inverted  flower-pot  (Fig.  6),  taking  care  to 
tilt  it  frequenth'  to  prevent  the  plants  from  "drawing."     In 

the  sowing  of  celery  and  other  small 
and  slow  seeds,  it  is  a  frequent  prac- 
tice to  leave  the  board  on  the  row 
until  the  seeds  appear,  in  order  to 
hold  the  moisture.  This  is  a  doubt- 
ful expedient,  however,  for  the  young 
plants  are  likely  to  be  quickly  dis- 
patched by  the  sun  when  the  board 
is  removed.  If  the  board  is  em- 
ployed, it  should  be  raised  an  inch 
or  two  from  the  ground  as  soon  as  the  plants  begin  to  appear ; 
but  the  shade  of  the  board  is  too  dense,  and  plants  do  not  grow 


Fig.    6. 


Seeds    covered    with 
flower-pot. 


PROPAGATION   BY   MEANS   OF   SEEDS   AND   SPORES     17 


stocky  under  it.  It  is  better  to  use  brush  or  lath  screens  if  pro- 
tection is  desired ;  or  fine  litter,  if  free  from  weed  seeds,  may  be 
employed.  In  most  cases,  however,  screens  will  not  be  needed 
by  celery  and  similar  seeds  if  the  ground  is  in  the  proper  con- 
dition so  that  it  will  neither  bake  nor  dry  out  quickly,  and  is 
well  firmed  at  planting  time,  and  if  the  seeds  are  sown  early 
before  hot  drv  weather  comes.  It  is  alwavs  advisable,  never- 
theless,  to  place  the  beds  for  slow  and  small  seeds  where  they 
can  be  watered  occasionally  and  where  there  is  protection  from 
strong  winds  and  perhaps  more  or  less  protection  from  sun. 
Plants  much  protected  from  sun,  however,  may  be  burned  and 
sometimes  killed  when  transplanted  to  the  field  unless  they 
have  been  ''hardened  off  " 
before  transference. 

Many  kinds  of  screens  are 
in  use  to  prevent  the  drying 
out  of  small  seeds  in  out- 
door seedage  and  to  protect 
the  young  seedlings.  These 
are  used  also  in  the  shad- 
ing of  cuttings.  The  com- 
mon lath  screen  (Fig.  7)  is 
the  most  useful  for  general 
purposes.  It  is  simply  a  square  frame  made  from  common 
laths  laid  at  right  angles  in  a  double  series.  The  interstices 
between  the  laths  are  equal  in  width  to  the  laths  themselves. 
These  screens  are  laid  horizontally  on  a  light  framework  a 
few  inches  above  the  seeds.  The  passage  of  the  sun  constantly 
moves  the  shadows  over  the  bed,  and  sufficient  shade  is  afforded 
while  thorough  ventilation  is  assured.  This  and  all  other 
elevated  screens  are  useful  in  shading  and  protecting  the  young 
plants  as  well,  but  when  used  for  this  purpose  they  are  mostlj 
raised  a  greater  distance  above  the  beds.  A  brush  screen 
consisting  of  a  low  frame  covered  with  boughs,  is  often  used 


Fig.  7.     Lath  screen. 


18 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


as  shown  in  Fig.  8.  This  is  cheaper  than  the  /ath  screens,  and 
IS  equally  as  good  for  most  purposes.  The  brush  is  often  laid 
directly  on  the  ground,  especially  in  large  beds.     This  answers 


Fig.  8.     Brush  screen. 

the  purpose  of  shading,  but  it  does  not  allow  of  weeding,  and 
it  must  be  taken  off  soon  after  the  seeds  germinate,  or  slender 
plants  will  be  injured  in  its  removal.  Brush  screens  are  some- 
times raised  three  or  four  feet  to  allow  of  weeding. 

A  good  screen  for  frames  is  shown  in  Fig.  9.  It  is  a  simple 
covering  of  muslin  stretched  over  the  top  and  sides  of  a 
rough  framework.     The  cloth   is   usually   omitted   from   the 


^•AS< 


_.':•;  l.V 


Fig.  9.     Cloth  screen  for  frames  in  which  seeds  and  cuttings  may  be  handled. 

front  side.  This  style  of  screen  is  much  used  by  nurserymen, 
especially  for  cutting-beds.  Whitewashing  the  sashes  of 
coldframes  also  affords  good  shading.  A  more  elaborate  and 
permanent  screen  is  shown  in  Fig.   10.     It  is  built  of  slats, 


PROPAGATION   BY   MEANS   OF   SEEDS   AND   SPORES     1\} 


usually  3-inch  stuff.  This  shed  screen  is  oftenest  used  for  tht? 
protection  of  tender  plants,  but  it  affords  an  exceedingly  use- 
ful and  convenient  place  for 
the  storage  of  pots  and  boxes 
of  slow-germinating  seeds.  A 
more  elaborate  shed  screen, 
made  of  lath  or  slats,  and  con- 
taining   seed-beds    edged    with    Fig.   lO.     Shed  screen  for  seeds  and 

boards,  is  shown  in  Fig.  11.  plants. 

Various  frames  and  covers  are  employed  for  indoor  seedage, 
designed  to  regulate  atmospheric  moisture  and  to  conirol 
temperature.  They  are  more  commonly  employed  in  the 
growing  of  cuttings,  and  are  therefore  described  in  Chapter  V. 

Requirements  of  temperature 

Variations  in  temperature  exercise  less  influence  on  seeds 
than  variations  in  moisture.  Yet  it  is  important  that  the  ex- 
tremes of  temperature  be  not  great,  especially  in  small,  delicate 


Fig.  11.     Large  shed  screen,  with  seed-beds. 

or  weak  seeds.  Seeds  will  endure  greater  extremes  of  tem- 
perature when  dry  than  when  moist.  This  indicates  that 
germinating  seeds  must  be  kept  in  a  relatively  uniform  tem- 
perature. For  this  reason  it  is  poor  practice  to  put  seed-boxes 
in  a  window  in  full  sunlight.     Partial  or  complete  shade  server 


2U  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

the  double  purpose  of  preventing  too  great  heat  and  too  rapid 
evaporation.  Various  covered  seed-boxes  are  used  for  the 
purpose  of  maintaining  approximately  the  required  tempera- 
ture, but  as  they  are  oftener  employed  in  bud-propagation, 
they  are  discussed  in  that  connection  (Chapter  V) . 

Bottom  heat  is  helpful  to  germination  in  most  seeds,  but, 
except  in  the  case  of  certain  tropical  species,  it  should  not  be 
strong.  It  is  a  common  practice  to  place  seed-boxes  on  moder- 
ately cool  pipes  under  benches  in  a  greenhouse.  Seeds  of 
hardy  annuals  and  perennials  do  not  require  bottom  heat, 
although  they  may  be  benefited  by  it.  If  the  earth  in  seed- 
beds should  become  too  cool,  watering  with  warm  or  tepid 
water  may  be  helpful. 

It  is  impossible  to  give  rules  for  the  proper  temperature  for 
different  kinds  of  seeds.  In  general,  it  may  be  said  that  seeds 
germinate  most  rapidly  at  a  temperature  a  few  degrees  above 
that  required  for  the  best  development  of  the  plant  itself. 
Seeds  of  hardy  plants  require  a  temperature  of  50°  to  70°, 
conservatory  plants  60°  to  80°  and  tropical  or  stove  plants 
75°  to  95°.  The  plantlets  should  be  removed  from  these 
highest  temperatures,  as  a  rule,  as  soon  as  germination  is 
completed. 

In  outdoor  culture,  depth  of  planting  has  a  direct  relation 
to  temperature.  Seeds  may  be  planted  deeper  late  in  the 
season  than  early  when  the  soil  is  cold  and  damp.  Deep 
planting  probably  as  often  kills  seeds  because  of  the  absence 
of  sufficient  warmth  as  from  the  lack  of  oxygen  or  the  great 
depth  of  earth  through  which  the  plantlet  is  unable  to  push. 

Influence  of  light  on  germination 

The  influence  that  light  exerts  on  germination  is  not  definitely 
understood  for  all  horticultural  seeds.  It  is  known,  however, 
that  seeds  will  often  germmate  in  full  sunlight,  if  the  proper 


i'ROPAGAlION   BY   MEANS   OF  SEEDS   AND  SPORES     21 

conditions  of  moisture  and  temperature  can  be  maintained. 
Seeds  sown  on  a  moist  surface  and  covered  with  a  glass 
present  an  interesting  study.  They  may  have  difficulty  in 
getting  a  foothold,  and  they  present  peculiar  reactions  to 
light. 

It  is  well  known,  on  the  other  hand,  that  some  seeds  will 
not  germinate,  or  will  at  least  appear  unevenly,  if  subjected 
to  sunlight.  At  least  some  of  the  delphiniums,  papavers  and 
adonises  germinate  very  imperfectly,  if  at  all,  in  direct  light. 
It  is  always  advisable  to  keep  germinating  seeds  in  shade  or 
partial  darkness,  especially  as  there  is  nothing  to  be  gained  by 
exposing  them.  Of  course,  the  soil  itself  is  sufficient  protection 
if  the  seeds  are  covered. 

Regermination 

It  is  a  common  statement  that  seeds  can  never  revive  if 
allowed  to  become  thoroughly  dry  after  they  have  begun  to 
sprout.  This  is  an  error.  Wheat,  oats,  buckwheat,  maize, 
pea,  onion,  radish  and  other  seeds  have  been  tested  in  this 
regard,  and  they  are  found  to  regerminate  readily,  even  if 
allowed  to  become  thoroughly  dry  and  brittle  after  sprout- 
ing is  well  progressed.  They  will  even  regerminate  several 
times. 

Wheat,  peas  and  other  seeds  have  been  carried  through  as 
many  as  seven  germinations  after  the  radicle  had  grown  a  half 
inch  or  more  and  the  seeds  had  been  sufficiently  dried  in  each 
trial  to  render  them  fit  for  grinding. 

Delayed  gerumiaticm 

We  noted  in  Chapter  I  that  most  seeds  have  a  natural  period 
of  dormancy.  This  period  may  be  considerably  shortened  or 
lengthened  in  many  cases  by  the  treatment  to  which  the  seeds 
are  subjected 


22  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

If  seeds  are  buried  in  the  ground  and  exposed  to  the  action 
of  frost,  the  period  of  dormancy  is  usually  considerably  re- 
duced. Thus  Pammel  and  King  report  (Proc.  Iowa  Acad. 
Sci.  xv)  experiments  by  Fawcett  showing  that  "the  dormant 
period  of  common  pigweed  (Amarantus  retroflexus)  was  nine  and 
one-third  days  when  kept  in  packages  in  a  dry  room,  and  only 
six  and  one-third  days  after  having  been  wintered  out  of  doors. 
In  the  case  of  wild  rye,  the  dormant  period  was  lessened  from 
nine  to  five  days  .  .  .  while  the  percentage  of  germination 
was  increased  from  22  per  cent  to  48  per  cent,  and  the  pigweed 
from  40  per  cent  to  50  per  cent.  In  general,  the  longest  dor- 
mant period  was  found  in  those  seeds  which  have  the  hardest 
and  thickest  coats." 

The  better  germination  of  some  kinds  of  seeds  after  being 
subjected  to  freezing  is  the  result  of  the  cracking  of  the  shell 
and  the  letting  in  of  moisture,  rather  than  the  lessening  of  an 
inherent  dormancy;  perhaps  this  is  always  the  explanation. 
Plant-growers  resort  extensively  to  the  burying  of  nuts  and 
hard-shelled  seeds  to  insure  germination.  They  also  file  or 
notch  certain  seeds,  as  those  of  the  moonflowers,  to  allow  water 
to  enter  and  to  start  the  germination  processes,  taking  care,  of 
course,  not  to  injure  the  embryo. 

How  long  germination  may  be  delayed  and  the  seeds  still 
remain  viable  (or  germinable)  depends  on  the  kind  of  plant 
more  than  on  the  conditions  of  storage.  The  longevity  of 
seeds,  in  other  words,  is  largely  an  hereditary  trait  lying  prob- 
ably in  the  anatomy  and  chemical  constitution.  In  this  realm, 
new  experiments  are  needed  on  a  considerable  scale,  reinforced 
by  the  modern  understanding  of  the  physiological  processes. 

The  stories  of  live  seeds  being  taken  from  the  mummies  of 
ancient  Egypt  are  not  credible ;  these  statements  have  often 
been  exposed.  Yet  certain  seeds  may  outlive  a  human  life. 
Pammel  and  King  report  the  following  table  from  Ewart,  of 
Victoria  (Australia),  on  certain  rather  remarkable  longevities: 


PROPAGATION   BY    MEANS    OF   SEEDS    AND   SPORES     23 


Name  of  Seed 


MalvacecB  — 

Abutilon  Avicennae        .     .     . 

Hibiscus  Trionum      .... 

Gossypium  herbaceum  (cotton) 
LeguminoscB  — 

Acacia  diffusa        

Acacia  penninervis     .... 

Cytisus  albus 

Melilotu^,  alba  (sweet  clover) . 

Melilotus  alba  (sweet  clover) 
NymphceacecB  — 

Nelumbium  luteum  .... 
RhamnaceoB  — 

Ceanothus  americanus  .     .     . 
CrucijercB  — 

Brassica  alba  (white  mustard) 
Compositce  — 

Cichorium  Intybus  (chicory) 

Helianthus  annuus  (sunflower) 
GramineoB  — 

Triticum  vulgare  (wheat)  .     . 

Zea  Mays  (Maize)  .     .     . 

Bromus  mollis 


Years 
Old 


57 

57 
10 

57 
57 
51 
44 

77 

55 
15 

77 

10 
15 

10 

7 

10 


No.  OF 

Seeds 


45 


32 

15 

54 

250 

1000 

6 

20 

115 

100 
20 

100 
100 
250 


Percentage 

OF 

Germination 


6 
12 
80 

9 

13.3 
78 
52 
18.2 

63 

0 

0 

50 
0 

75 

36 

0 


Horticulturists  are  well  aware  that  seeds  of  parsnip  and 
certain  others  of  the  Umbelliferse  are  unreliable  after  one  or 
two  years,  whereas  cucumber  and  others  of  the  Cucurbitaces? 
may  be  "good"  after  several  or  even  many  years.  They 
reduce  the  risk  to  the  minimum,  however,  by  insisting  on 
"fresh"  seeds,  that  is,  on  those  grown  the  preceding  year. 


Keeping  the  seeds 

To  keep  seeds  is  to  prevent  germination  and  at  the  same 
time  to  preserve  the  life  of  the  seed. 


24  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Seeds  should  be  thoroughly  ripe  and  dry  before  they  are 
stored.  Those  of  pulpy  fruits  are  removed  and  cleaned.  If 
the  seed-vessels  are  dry  and  hard,  seeds  may  be  left  in  them 
till  sowing  time,  but  usually  they  are  removed. 

Hard  seeds,  as  of  trees  and  nuts,  may  be  buried  as  explained 
on  page  35.  Most  seeds,  however,  are  stored  dry  in  paper 
bags  or  boxes  in  a  cool  dry  room.  The  receptacles  should  be 
tight  to  keep  out  weevils ;  if  there  are  any  signs  of  bug  work, 
a  little  bisulfide  of  carbon  may  be  poured  in  the  receptacle, 
and  the  vapor  of  it  will  destroy  animal  life.  This  material  is 
inflammable,  and  it  should  be  kept  away  from  flames. 

If  seeds  at  storing  time  are  moist  and  the  weather  is  damp, 
they  may  be  lightly  kiln-dried  before  put  away  for  winter. 
Rarely  are  dry  seeds  injured  by  freezing.  Seedsmen  sometimes 
keep  large  and  more  or  less  fleshy  seeds,  as  musas,  in  fine  dry 
sawdust,  chaff  or  other  material  that  will  insure  equable  con- 
ditions and  prevent  too  great  desiccation. 

2.    SEED-TESTING 

While  it  is  not  the  province  of  this  Manual  to  discuss  the 
question  of  the  testing  of  seeds,  a  few  hints  on  the  subject  may 
be  acceptable,  particularly  in  the  bearing  of  the  remarks  on 
seed-sowing.  Seed-testing  is  for  two  purposes :  to  determine 
the  germinating  power  or  growing  power  of  the  seeds;  to 
discover  the  purity  or  quality  of  the  sample  in  respect  to 
admixtures,  weed  seeds,  foreign  materials  and  adulteration, 
a  process  often  called  "  seed  analysis." 

Testing  for  viability 

Germination  is  complete  when  the  plantlet  begins  to  assume 
true  leaves  and  to  appropriate  food  directly  from  the  soil. 
The  testing  of  seeds  is  not  always  concerned  wdth  germination, 
but  with  the  simple  sprouting  of  the  samples.     Many  seeds 


PROPAGATION   BY    MEANS   OF   SEEDS   AND   SPORES     25 

will  sprout  when  not  strong  enough  to  germinate  completely, 
and  more  seeds  will  be  counted  as  viable  when  they  are  tested 
in  a  germinating  apparatus  —  where  the  conditions  are  perfect 
—  than  when  they  are  normally  planted  in  the  earth.  There 
is  even  sometimes  a  marked  difference  between  the  results  of 
seed-tests  in  earth  in  the  greenhouse  and  in  outdoor  planting, 
as  the  following  comparisons  (Bulletin  7,  Cornell  Experiment 
Station,  1889)  plainly  show : 

"It  has  been  said  recently  that  the  ideal  test  of  seeds  is 
actual  sowing  in  the  field,  inasmuch  as  the  ultimate  value  of 
the  seed  is  its  capability  to  produce  a  crop.  This  notion  of 
seed-tests  is  obviously  fallacious,  although  the  statement  on 
which  it  is  based  is  true.  In  other  words,  actual  planting 
rarely  gives  a  true  measure  of  the  capabilities  of  all  the  seeds 
of  any  sample,  because  of  the  impossibility  to  control  con- 
ditions and  methods  in  the  neld.  The  object  of  seed-tests  is 
to  determine  how^  many  seeds  are  viable,  and  what  is  their 
relative  vigor;  if  planting  show^s  poorer  results,  because  of 
covering  too  deep  or  too  shallow,  by  exposing  to  great  extremes 
of  temperature  or  moisture,  or  a  score  of  other  untoward  con- 
ditions, the  sample  cannot  be  held  to  account  for  the  short- 
coming. The  table  on  page  26  indicates  the  extent  of  varia- 
tions that  may  be  expected  between  tests  and  actual  plantings 
of  seeds  from  the  same  samples. 

"Various  samples  were  tested  indoors  and  actually  planted 
in  the  field.  The  seeds  were  sown  in  the  field  June  5,  and  the 
last  notes  were  taken  from  them  July  5.  They  were  sown  on 
a  gravelly  knoll.  Rain  fell  about  every  alternate  day,  and  the 
soil  was  in  good  condition  for  germination  throughout  the 
month.  The  indoor  tests  were  made  in  loose  potting  earth, 
or  in  sand  in  seed-pans. 

"The  table  indicates  that  actual  planting  in  the  field  gives 
fewer  germinations  than  careful  tests  in  conditions  under 
control.     This  difference  in  total  of  germination,  even  under 


26 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


No.  of 

No.  OF 

Per  Cent 

Germ,  in 

Per  Cent 

Per  Cent 

Samples 

Germ,  in 

OF  Germ. 

Field 

of  Germ. 

of  Differ- 

House 

IN  House 

(200  Seeds 
Sown) 

IN  Field 

ence 

Endive,  Green  Curled 

(200  seeds)      .     .     . 

88 

44 

53 

26.5 

17.5 

Tomato,    Green    Gage 

(100  seeds)      .     .     . 

72 

72 

93 

46.5 

25.5 

Turnip,       Early      Six 

Weeks  (200  seeds)    . 

180 

90 

65 

32.5 

57.5 

Pea,     White     Garden 

Marrowfat  (60  seeds) 

55 

91.6 

181 

90.5 

1.1 

Celery,    White   Plume 

(100  seeds)      .     .     . 

41 

41 

22 

11 

30 

Onion,    Red  Wethers- 

field  (200  seeds)       . 

148 

74 

84 

42 

32 

Carrot,  Early  Forcing 

(100  seeds)      .     .     . 

70 

70 

39 

19.5 

50.5 

Carrot,  Vermont  But- 

ter (100  seeds)     .     . 

65 

65 

45 

22.5 

42.5 

favorable  conditions  of  planting,  may  amount  to  over  50  per 
cent. 

"In  planting,  due  allowance  should  be  made  for  the  com- 
paratively bungling  methods  of  field  practice  by  the  use  of 
greater  quantities  of  seeds  than  would  seem,  from  the  results 
of  tests,  to  be  sufficient." 

Probablv  the  most  truthful  test  of  seeds  can  be  made  in 
earth  in  earthen  pans  in  a  greenhouse  or  forcing-house.  When 
one  desires  to  show  the  ultimate  percentage  of  seeds  that  con- 
tain life,  the  sprouting-test  should  be  used.  In  this  case,  an 
apparatus  should  be  employed  in  which  the  moisture  and  tem- 
perature can  be  controlled  to  a  nicety,  and  in  which  the  seeds 
can  be  examined  as  often  as  desired.  As  soon  as  a  seed  sprouts, 
it  is  removed  and  counted  as  viable,  wholl}'  independently  of 
whether  it  is  strong  enough  to  make  a  plant  under  ordinary 
conditions.     In  other  words,  the  sprouting-test  is  an  attempt 


PROPAGATION   BY   MEANS   OF   SEEDS   AND   SPORES     27 


to  arrive  at  a  numerical  estimate  of  the  viability  of  the  sample, 
rather  than  an  effort  to  determine  the  relative  strength  of 
germinative  power. 

There  are  many  excellent  devices  for  the  making  of  sprout- 
ing-tests,  only  a  few  of  which  need  be  mentioned  here  for  the 
purpose  of  illustrating  some  of  the  principles  involved.  One 
of  the  best  known  of  these  apparatus  in  this  country  is  the 
Geneva  tester  (Fig.  12),  which  origi- 
nated at  the  New  York  Experiment 
Station  at  Geneva.  A  full  account  of 
this  device  by  Professor  J. 
C.  Arthur  (Botanical  Ga- 
zette, 1885,  p.  425)  is  here 
inserted : 

"Various  methods  have  been 
used  for  testing  the  per  cent  and 
time  of  seed  germination.  Those 
most  commonly  adopted  in  this 
country  and  also  abroad  have  been 
to  place  the  seeds  on  the  surface  of 
porous  tile,  smooth  sand  or  com- 
pacted earth.  Without  stopping  to  point  out  the  defects  and  incon- 
veniences of  these  methods,  I  desire  to  describe  an  apparatus  devised 
at  the  New  York  Agricultural  Experiment  Station,  and  which  has  been 
found  so  satisfactory  as  to  supersede  all  other  sorts  of  germinators  at 
that  institution  for  general  use.  It  consists  (Fig.  12)  of  a  pan  10  x  14 
inches  wide  and  3^  inches  deep,  to  be  covered  with  a  pane  of  glass.  Along 
the  sides  is  a  ledge  f  inch  wide,  and  as  much  below  the  upper  edge.  The  pan 
is  best  made  of  tinned  copper,  the  ledge  formed  by  the  proper  shaping  of 
the  sides  of  the  pan,  and  the  edges  on  three  sides  turned  over  to  form  a 
groove  into  which  the  pane  of  glass  may  be  slid  from  one  end.  These 
details  are  not  shown  in  the  cut.  The  seeds  are  held  in  the  folds  of  cloth. 
A  strip  of  white  canton  flannel  is  taken  sufficiently  wide  so  that  when 
hemmed  on  both  sides  (to  prevent  seeds  slipping  out  of  the  ends  of  the 
folds)  it  will  be  the  same  as  the  inside  width  of  the  pan.  A  long  enough 
strip  is  used  to  have  about  twenty-four  folds  1|  inches  deep,  and  leave  a 
flap  of  several  inches  at  each  end.     The  upper  margin  of  the  folds  is  sewn 


Fig.  12.     The  Geneva  seed-tester. 


28 


THE    NURSERY-MANUAL 


across  to  permit  a  |-inch  brass  rod  to  be  run  in  (y,  p),  from  whica  the  cloth 
is  suspended  in  the  pan,  as  shown  in  the  cut.     The  lower  margins  of  the 


Fig.  13.     Absorbing-block  seed-tester. 

folds  (o)  are  also  sewn  across  to  make  them  stay  in  place  better.  The 
total  length  of  the  strip  after  the  sewing  is  completed  is  about  a  yard. 
Two  such  strips  are  used  in  each  pan. 

"To  put  the  pan  into  use,  it  is  filled  part  full  of  water,  two  of  the  pre- 
pared cloths  put  in,  the  glass  cover  adjusted  and  the  whole  boiled  over  a 
lamp  for  a  short  time.  This  is  necessary  in  order  both  thoroughly  to  wet 
the  cloth  and  to  kill  any  mold  or  other  germs.  When  again  cool,  adjust 
the  cloths  on  the  brass  rods  and  put  in  the  seeds.  Each  fold  will  hold 
25  large  seeds,  like  beans,  and  a  hundred  or  more  small  seeds.  Water  is 
placed  in  the  pan,  but  not  enough  to  touch  the  folds  of  cloth ;  the  four  flaps 
drop  down  into  it,  however,  and  keep  the  cloths  sufficiently  wet  by  cap- 
illarity, which  is  increased  by  the  long  nap  on  the  under  surface  of  the  cloth. 
The  folds  are  numbered  consecutively,  and  the  record  kept  by  the  numbers. 
"The  advantages  in  a  pan  of  this  kind  are  the  facility  with  which  the 
seeds  may  be  examined  and  counted,  the  thorough  and  uniform  moisture 

of  the  seeds  throughout  the  longest  trials, 
its  lightness  and  cleanliness.  It  is  neces- 
sary to  renew  the  cloths  from  time  to 
time,  as  they  will  slowly  rot  out,  even 
with  the  best  of  care." 

A  device  of  different  character  is 
T^ p^j      -shown  in  Figs.  13  and  14  (Annals 

Fig:'  14.      The   tester  shown  in    Hort.,     1S90,    268).       It    COnsistS    of 
Fig.  1.3  set  up  for  use.  .1  ,  .  •         ,  /  \     i? 

three  parts :  a  tm  tray  (c)  tor 
holding  water;  a  block  of  gypsum  (h)  that  sits  in  the  tray 
and  contains  several  compartments  for  the  reception  of  the 


PROPAGATION   BY   MEANS   OF   SEEDS   AND   SPORES     29 


Fig.  15.     Sprouting-cup. 


seeds,  and  is  kept  moist  by  capillary  attraction;  a  glass  cover  (a). 

The  apparatus  is  seen  set  up  in  Fig.  14.     This  device  works 

on  a  principle  long  utilized  in  the 

testing  of   seeds  —  the  capillary 

power  of  earthenware  and  various 

species  of  rock  —  and   there  are 

many  applications  of  the  idea  in 

practice.    These  seed-testers  may 

be   placed    in    an    incubator    or 

other  heating  device,  or  they  may  be  used  in  the  greenhouse 

or  a  living-room. 

A  bulletin  (No.  35)  of  the  Rhode  Island  Experiment  Station 

describes  and  illustrates  a  modification  of  the  absorbing-block 

idea  (Fig.   15).     Instead  of  a  slab  of  stone  or  earthenware, 

"sprouting  cups"  are  used.     "They  are  3  inches  in  diameter 

and  If  inches  high,  including  the  cover,  which  is  ventilated. 

The  bottom  is  solid  and  -J  inch  thick.    Each  cup  is  placed  in  a 

glass  dish  in  which  a  constant  supply  of  water  is  kept."     These 

cups  are  placed  in  a  **  sprouting-chamber  " 
(Fig.  16),  supplied  with  uniform  heat. 
"This  holds  about  fifty  cups.  Heat  is 
supplied  by  a  gas  jet,  which  is  supported 
beneath  the  chamber,  and  it  is  distributed 
evenly  to  all  sides  of  the  chamber,  except 
the  front,  by  means  of  a  water-jacket. 
It  is  provided  with  two  doors,  the  inner 
one  being  glass.  There  is  an  opening  in 
the  side  and  top  for  ventilating,  and  a 
second  opening  in  the  top  for  the  inser- 
tion of  a  thermometer.  There  are  also 
two  openings  into  the  water-jacket  at 
the  top.  In  one  of  these  a  thermostat 
c,         .  (c)  is  placed,  which  controls  the  flow  of 

16.      Sprouting-  i       •       i  i  i  •        i  i 

chamber.  gas  at  the  jet  beneath,  and  in  the  other  a 


30 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


Fig,  17.     Home-made  seed- tester. 


thermometer  (d) 
may  be  placed 
to  show  the  tem- 
perature of  the 
water  in  the 
jacket." 

A  good  home- 
made tester,  often  illustrated  in  experiment  station  bulletins 
and  elsewhere,  is  shown  in  Fig.  17.  Two  plates  are  used, 
with  water  or  wet  sand  in  one  of  them,  on  which  is  placed 
a  blotting-paper  or  piece  of  canton  flannel  bearing  the 
seeds. 

The  "rag-doll"  tester  is  now  one  of  the  most  popular  home- 
made devices  and  is  often  illustrated.  It  is  shown  in  Fig.  18 
(adapted  from  a  Montana  Station  publication,  as  is  also  Fig.  17). 
A  piece  of  heavy  cloth  is  wet,  the  seeds  placed  on  it,  and  the 
cloth  then  rolled  up  tight;  sometimes  the  rolls  or  "dolls"  are 
stood  in  a  pail  of  water.  In  these  rolls  the  seeds  soon  germi- 
nate, and  they  may  be  untied  frequently  for  examination. 
Several  of  them  are  shown  in  Fig.  18.  If  it  is  desired  to  test 
several  kinds  of  seeds  in  one  doll,  a  piece  of  heavy  white  canton 
flannel  may  be  used  and  laid  off  into  squares  or  compartments 
with  a  lead  pencil. 

The  usual  practice  of  testing  garden  seeds  at  home  is  to  plant 
them  in  boxes  of  light  earth  and  to  place  the  box  in  a  warm 
window  or  near  a 
stove.  While  this 
method  may  be  accu- 
rate enough  for  com- 
mon purposes,  it  does 
not  allow  of  easv  ex- 
amination  nor  are  the 
conditions  likely  to  be 

under  sufficient  control.  Fig.  18.     The  rag-doll  seed-tester. 


r-zsv 


PROPAGATION   BY   MEANS   OF   SEEDS   AND   SPORES     31 

Testing  for  purity 

Analyzing  a  sample  of  seed  for  the  impurities  it  may  con- 
tain is  a  subject  quite  foreign  to  a  manual  of  propagation ;  yet 
the  reader  may  desire  a  few  words  on  the  subject.  The  process 
consists  in  examining  the  sample  under  a  lens  and  counting  or 
estimating  the  proportion  of  impurit}^  or  mixture.  To  make 
the  best  and  most  convincing  test,  one  should  be  able  to  identify 
the  impurities.     Following  is  a  description  of  such  analysis 


Fig.  19.  Instruments  for  seed  examination.  —  The  seed  sample  ;  lens  ;  piece 
of  cardboard  or  other  material  to  separate  the  sample  into  piles  or  parts  ;  for- 
ceps ;    scalpel  or  knife. 


for  home  use  from  Circ.  23,  Utah  Experiment  Station  (1916), 
by  George  Stewart,  together  with  a  picture  (Fig.  19)  adapted 
from  the  Montana  Experiment  Station  : 

''To  find  out  the  quality  of  the  seed  that  is  commonly  planted,  testing 
for  impurities  and  germination  power  is  the  first  important  step.  Let  all 
seed  be  run  over  screens  to  get  rid  of  as  much  foreign  substance  as  pos- 
sible. After  a  thorough  screening,  an  analysis  should  be  made.  The 
most  practical  method  for  ordinary  purposes  is  the  hand  separation  of  a 
well-mixed  sample  into  piles  containing  (1)  good  seed;  (2)  broken  and 
injured  seed  of  the  same  kind ;  (3)  seed  of  useful  plants  or  of  other  varie- 
ties of  the  same  crop;  (4)  dirt,  chaff  and  other  inert  material;  and  (3) 
weed  seed. 


32  THE  NURSERY-MANUAL 

"In  the  first  place  it  is  necessary  to  get  a  representative  sample  by 
taking  seed  from  top,  sides,  middle  and  bottom  of  sack  or  bin  and  to  mix 
thoroughly  on  a  cloth,  paper  or  smooth  table.  A  thin-bladed  knife  is  a 
convenient  tool  with  which  to  mix.  The  person  should  exercise  care  not 
to  lose  seed  or  dirt  while  mixing,  as  a  good  test  requires  careful  weighing. 
When  satisfied  with  the  mixing,  let  the  tester  divide  the  sample  into  two 
approximately  equal  parts,  discarding  one-half  and  mixing  the  other,  and 
repeat  dividing  and  mixing  until  the  pile  is  small  enough  to  analyze. 

"The  first  step  in  analysis  is  to  weigh  the  sample  carefully  and  record 
the  weight.  Analysis  proper  may  then  begin.  This  consists  of  separat- 
ing the  sample  into  the  four  or  five  piles  already  mentioned.  A  pair  of 
forceps  and  a  hand  lens  aid  materially,  and  for  small  seed,  such  as  grass 
and  clover  or  alfalfa,  are  necessary.  A  needle  fastened  in  a  wooden  handle 
or  a  sharp  hat-pin  serves  to  pick  out  small  particles  or  to  separate  ad- 
hering bodies.  After  the  separation  is  complete,  each  pile  should  be 
weighed,  or  closely  estimated  by  counting. 

"If  possible,  the  weed  seed  ought  to  be  identified  in  order  to  prevent 
the  introduction  of  bad  weeds  new  in  the  locality  or  not  yet  started  on  the 
farm  in  question.  Identification  enables  the  farmer  to  know  just  what 
he  is  planting,  permitting  him  to  exercise  choice  as  to  whether  such  seed 
is  the  best  he  can  find  at  a  reasonable  price." 

The  complete  seed-test 

If  a  full  test  is  made,  it  includes  an  analysis  of  purity  and  a 
record  of  viability.  Following  is  the  form  of  report  recom- 
mended by  Circ.  23  of  the  Utah  Station : 

A  report  of  the  test  should  show  the  analysis  and  percentage 
germination.  The  following  form  of  report  gives  the  most 
essential  information : 

Kind  of  seed  Variety  

Source  Proposed  use    — — 


Locality  to  use  it  

Test  Per  Cent 

Purity  

Injured  seed  

Other  crop  seed  


PROPAGATION   BY    MEANS   OF  SEEDS   AND  SPORES     33 

Test  Per  Cent 

Inert  matter  

Weeds  

(Kinds  of  weeds  —  notes  on) 
Germination  (per  cent)  


There  is  an  organization  of  "  Seed  Analysts  of  North  America,'^ 
that  meets  in  annual  convention.  It  comprises  the  officers  in 
the  different  states  associated  with  the  working  of  the  seed 
laws,  representatives  of  the  United  States  Department  of 
Agriculture  and  of  the  Canadian  Department  of  Agriculture. 
Many  of  the  experiment  stations  and  departments  publish 
results  of  seed-tests.  The  influence  of  all  this  activity  has 
developed  a  public  consciousness  on  pure  seeds,  established 
legal  procedure  and  developed  accurate  methods  of  testing. 
A  representative  summary  from  one  of  the  state  publications 
will  indicate  the  nature  of  the  enterprise.  This  is  from  New 
Hampshire.  That  state  enacted  a  pure  seed  law  in  1909, 
requiring  the  publication  annually  of  a  bulletin  showing  tne 
results  of  all  seed-tests  made  officially  in  the  previous  year, 
placing  the  administration  of  the  law  in  the  hands  of  the  State 
Commissioner  of  Agriculture,  who  appointed  the  agronomist 
of  the  Experiment  Station  as  his  regular  agent  for  making  all 
tests  and  analyses.     The  table  on  page  34  is  from  Bull.  180. 

3.    THE  HANDLING  AND   SOWING   OF   SEEDS   AND   SPORES 

When  one  comes  to  the  sowing  of  seeds,  one  must  be  pre- 
pared to  give  them  good  care  and  much  thoughtful  attention. 
They  have  been  the  result  of  much  energy  on  the  part  of  the 
plant.  Care  of  the  seeds  themselves,  of  the  earth  in  which 
they  are  sown  and  in  the  follow-up  treatment  adds  much 
to  the  satisfaction  in  growing  the  plant. 


34 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL, 


•   Seeds  Submitted  by  the  Com- 
To  September  1,  1916 

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MISSION 

Alfalfa      .     .     . 
Alsike  Clover    . 
Barley      .     .     .     , 
Corn  (Field)      .     . 
Mammoth  Clover 
Millet      .     .     .     . 

Oats 

Red  Clover  .     .    . 
Red  Top       .     .     . 
Timothy       .     .     . 
White  Clover    .     . 

<               1 

:      1 

PROPAGATION   BY   MEANS   OF  SEEDS   AND  SPORES     35 

The  stratification  of  seeds 

Many  seeds  demand  treatment  preparatory  to  sowing. 
Nearly  all  hard  and  bony  seeds  fail  to  germinate,  or  at  least 
germinate  very  irregularly,  if  their  contents  are  allowed  to 
become  thoroughly  dry  and  hard.  The  shells  must  also  be 
softened  or  broken,  in  many  cases,  before  the  embryo  can  grow. 
Nature  treats  such  seeds  by  keeping  them  constantly  moist 
under  leaves  or  mold,  and  by  cracking  them  with  frost.  This 
suggests  the  practice  known  to  gardeners  as  stratification,  an 
operation  that  consists  in  mixing  seeds  with  earth  and  exposing 
them  to  frost  or  to  moisture  for  a  considerable  time  (cf.  page  24). 

Stratification  is  practiced,  as  a  rule,  with  all  nuts,  the  seeds 
of  forest  trees,  shrubs,  the  pips  of  haws  and  often  of  roses,  and 
in  many  cases  with  the  seeds  of  common  fruits. 

Seeds  should  be  stratified  as  soon  as  possible  after  they  are 
mature.  Small  seeds  are  usually  placed  in  thin  layers  in  a 
box  alternating  with  an  inch  or  two  of  sand.  Sometimes  the 
seeds  are  mixed  indiscriminately  in  the  sand,  but  unless  they 
are  large  it  is  troublesome  to  separate  them  at  sowing-time. 
The  sand  is  often  sown  with  the  seeds,  however,  but  it  is  diffi- 
cult in  such  cases  to  distribute  the  seeds  evenly,  and  in  sowing 
large  quantities  the  handling  of  the  sand  entails  a  considerable 
burden  and  becomes  an  item  of  expense.  It  is  advisable  to 
pass  the  sand  through  a  sieve  of  finer  mesh  than  the  seeds,  and 
the  seeds  can  then  be  sifted  out  at  sowing-time.  If  the  seed? 
are  very  small  or  few  in  number,  they  may  be  placed  between 
folds  of  thin  muslin,  which  is  then  laid  in  the  sand.  Any 
shallow  box,  like  a  gardener's  "flat,"  is  useful  in  making  strati- 
fications, or  pots  may  be  used  with  small  lots  of  seeds  although 
pots  are  likely  to  be  shattered  by  much  freezing.  A  flat  four 
inches  in  depth  might  contain  two  or  three  layers  or  strata  of 
seeds  the  size  of  peas. 

The  disposition  of  the  boxes  when  filled  varies  with  different 


36  THE  NURSERY-MANUAL 

operators.  Some  persons  prefer  to  bury  them.  In  this  case 
a  well-drained  sandy  slope  is  chosen.  The  flats  are  placed 
in  a  trench  one  to  two  feet  deep,  covered  with  a  single  thick- 
ness of  boards,  and  the  trench  is  then  filled  with  earth.  The 
seeds  usually  freeze  somewhat,  although  freezing  is  not  con- 
sidered necessary  unless  in  the  case  of  nut-like  seeds.  The 
object  attained  in  burying  is  to  keep  the  seeds  moist  and  fresh, 
inducing  the  rotting  or  softening  of  the  coverings,  while  the}- 
are  buried  so  deep  that  they  will  not  sprout.  Seeds  of  most 
forest  trees  should  be  treated  in  this  way.  They  are  com- 
monly left  in  the  ground  until  the  following  spring,  when  they 
are  taken  up  and  sown  in  drills  in  mellow  soil.  If  good  loam, 
to  which  has  been  added  a  little  well-rotted  manure,  is  used, 
the  seeds  or  nuts  of  hardy  trees  and  shrubs  may  be  allowed 
to  germinate  and  grow  for  one  season  in  the  flats.  At  the 
end  of  the  season  or  the  next  spring,  the  plants  can  be  trans- 
planted without  losing  one  of  them.  This  perhaps  is  the 
best  way  to  handle  rare  and  difficult  subjects. 

Many  growers  place  the  boxes  on  the  surface  in  a  protected 
place,  as  under  trees  or  in  a  shed,  and  cover  them  for  winter 
a  foot  deep  with  clean  straw  or  leaves.  If  boxes  are  piled  on 
top  of  each  other  they  should  be  mulched  with  moss,  else  the 
under  ones  may  become  too  dry.  Or  the  boxes  may  be  placed, 
without  covering,  in  a  shed,  but  they  must  be  examined  now 
and  then  to  see  that  thev  do  not  become  too  drv.  Precaution 
must  also  be  taken  to  keep  away  mice,  squirrels,  blue-jays, 
and  other  intruders. 

Large  nut-like  seeds  or  fruits,  as  peach-pits,  walnuts  and 
hickory-nuts,  are  usually  buried  in  sand  or  light  loam  where 
they  may  freeze.  Or  sometimes  the  large  nuts  are  thrown  into 
a  pile  with  earth  and  allowed  to  remain  on  the  surface.  Freez- 
ing serves  a  useful  purpose  in  aiding  to  crack  the  shells,  but  it 
is  not  essential  to  subsequent  germination,  as  is  commonly 
supposed.     All  seeds,  so  far  as  known,  can  be  grov;Ti  without 


PROPAGATION  BY   MEANS  OF  SEEDS  AND  SPORES     37 

the  agency  of  frost,  if  properly  handled.  The  seeds  of  some 
of  the  pines  are  liberated  by  heating  the  cones. 

Fall  sowing  amounts  to  stratification,  but  unless  the  soil  is 
mellow  and  very  thoroughly  drained  the  practice  is  not  ad- 
visable. The  seeds  are  liable  to  be  heaved  or  washed  out, 
or  eaten  by  vermin,  and  the  earth  is  likely  to  bake  over  them. 
Under  proper  conditions,  however,  the  seeds  of  fruits  and 
many  forest  trees  thrive  well  with  fall  sowing.  The  seeds 
should  be  sown  as  soon  as  they  are  ripe,  even  if  in  midsummer ; 
or  if  the  ground  is  not  ready  for  them  at  that  time,  they  may 
be  temporarily  stratified  to  prevent  too  great  hardening  of 
the  parts.  It  is  best  to  allow  all  green  or  moist  seeds  to  dry 
off  a  few  daj^s  before  they  are  stratified.  Fall-sown  seeds 
should  always  be  mulched. 

Nurserymen  practice  stratification  of  large  seeds,  as  peach 
and  plum,  by  burying  them  in  autumn  in  trenches  or  shallow 
pits.  Care  is  taken  to  choose  a  well-drained  soil,  and  a  place 
that  can  be  opened  early  in  spring. 

Some  seeds  rarely  germinate  until  the  second  year  after 
maturity,  even  with  the  best  of  treatment.  The  thorns, 
mountain  ash,  hollies,  viburnums,  some  roses,  and  many  others 
belong  in  this  category.  Some  growers  sow  them  regularly  as 
soon  as  they  are  ripe,  and  allow  the  beds  to  remain  until  the 
seeds  appear.  This  is  a  waste  of  land  and  of  labor  in  weeding, 
and  the  best  way  is  to  stratify  them  and  allow  them  to  remain 
until  the  first  or  second  spring  before  sowing. 

Other  prejxiratory  treatmeni 

Partial  substitutes  for  stratification  are  soaking  and  scald- 
ing the  seeds.  Soaking  may  be  advantageously  practiced 
in  the  case  of  slow  and  hard  seeds  that  are  not  inclosed  in  bony 
shells,  and  which  have  been  allowed  to  become  dry.  Seeds 
of  apple,  locust,  and  others  of  similar  character,  are  sometimes 


38  THE  NURSERY-MANUAL 

treated  in  this  way.  They  are  soaked  for  twenty-four  of 
thirty-six  hours,  and  it  is  commonly  thought  that  if  they 
are  exposed  to  a  sharp  frost  in  the  meantime,  better  results 
will  follow.  While  still  wet  the  seeds  are  sown.  Scalding 
water  may  be  poured  over  locust  and  other  seeds  to  soften  their 
coverings,  but  seeds  should  not  be  boiled,  as  sometimes  recom- 
mended. 

The  germination  of  bony  seeds  is  often  facilitated  by  filing 
or  cutting  away  the  shell  very  carefully  near  the  germ,  or  by 

boring  them.     A  bored  nelumbo  seed  is  showTi  in 

Fig.  20.    Moonflower  and  canna  seeds  are  similarly 

treated  (page  22). 

Treatment   with    various    chemicals    has    been 

recommended  for  the  purpose  of  softening  integ- 
Fig.  20.  Bored  umcnts,   and  also  for  some  power  which  strong 

oxidizing  agents  are  supposed  to  exert  in  hasten- 
ing germination  itself,  but  the  advantages  are  mostly  imaginary. 
Secret  and  patented  "germinator"  compounds  would  better 
be  avoided. 

Pulpy  and  fleshy  coverings  should  be  removed  from  seeds 
before  sowing.  Soft  fruits,  as  berries,  are  broken  up  or  ground 
into  a  pulp,  and  the  seeds  are  then  washed  out.  This  separation 
may  be  performed  immediately  in  some  cases,  but  when  the 
pulp  adheres  to  the  seed,  the  whole  mass  is  usually  allowed 
to  stand  until  fermentation  and  partial  decay  have  liberated 
the  seeds.  The  pulp  will  then  rise,  in  most  cases,  leaving  the 
seeds  at  the  bottom  of  the  vessel.  Seeds  can  be  liberated 
quickly  by  adding  a  stick  of  caustic  potash  to  each  pail  of 
water.  After  the  mass  has  stood  an  hour  or  so,  the  seeds  can 
be  rubbed  out  easily  after  the  liquid  has  been  poured  off  and 
the  water  changed.  Even  tomato  seeds  may  be  cleaned  in 
this  way. 

Seeds  that  have  thin  pulp,  as  the  viburnums  and  many  haws, 
can  be  prepared  by  rubbing  them  through  the  hands  with 


PROPAGATION  BY   MEANS  OF  SEEDS  AND  SPORES     39 

sharp  sand ;  or  the  scant  pulp  of  such  seeds  may  be  allowed 
to  rot  off  in  the  stratification  box.  Fleshy  coverings  of  hard 
and  bony  seeds  may  be  removed  by  maceration.  Allow  them 
to  stand  in  water  at  a  temperature  of  about  75°  for  one  to  three 
weeks,  and  then  wash  them  out.  Resinous  coverings  are  some- 
times removed  by  mixing  the  seeds  with  fresh  ashes  or  lime, 
or  by  treating  them  with  lye.  Hard  thick-walled  seeds  are 
rarely  injured  by  the  decay  of  the  pulpy  covering,  but  thin- 
walled  seeds  should  be  cleaned  to  avoid  the  possibility  of 
damage  arising  from  the  decay  of  the  pulp. 

Transportation  of  seeds  from  abroad 

The  transportation  of  certain  kinds  of  seeds  over  long  dis- 
tances, especially  on  sea  voyages,  is  often  beset  with  difficulties. 
Thick-meated  or  soft  seeds  may  become  too  dry  if  stored  in  a 
warm  place,  or  too  moist  if  stored  in  a  cool  one.  The  humid 
atmosphere  of  the  ocean  is  fatal  to  some  seeds  unless  they  are 
well  protected,  and  the  moist  and  hot  climates  of  some  tropical 
countries  destroy  many  seeds  of  cooler  regions  before  they  can 
be  planted,  or  cause  them  to  sprout  in  transit.  Thin-coated 
seeds  demand  dryness  and  air,  and  bony  seeds  usually  need 
moisture  and  a  more  confined  atmosphere.  Most  seeds  may 
be  sent  dry  and  loose  in  coarse  paper  packages  under  all  or- 
dinary circumstances ;  but  if  they  are  to  traverse  very  hot  and 
moist  climates,  they  should  be  sealed  in  tin  cases  or  very  se- 
curely wrapped  in  oiled  paper,  in  which  case  the  seeds  should 
be  thoroughly  dried  before  being  packed,  and  precautions  taken 
to  insure  the  dryness  of  the  air  in  the  package.  Small  seeds 
liable  to  become  moldy  may  be  packed  in  fi,nely  powdered 
charcoal  or  other  dry  material.  Apple  and  pear  seeds  are 
often  imported  in  this  way. 

The  seeds  or  fruits  of  woody  plants  require  more  carefui 
management.     They  should  generally  be  transported  in  some 


40 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


sort  of  stratification.  A  favorite  method  is  to  place  them  in 
boxes  or  jars,  mixed  with  naturally  moist  sand  or  sawdust, 
or  slightly  moist  dead  sphagnum  moss.  Some  persons  prefer 
to  seal  the  packages  hermetically,  but  under  ordinary  con- 
ditions this  is  unnecessary.  In  transit,  the  packages  should 
be  stored  in  a  medium  and  uniform  temperature.  Even  acorns, 
which  are  often  difficult  to  transport  over  long  voyages,  may 
be  carried  in  this  way  with  safety.  It  is  important  that  the 
soil  should  not  be  wet.  Natural  soil  from  a  dryish  and  loamy 
pasture  is  excellent. 

In  some  cases  it  is  better  to  sprout  the  seeds  in  the  native 
country  and  ship  the  seedlings  in  a  closed  or  Wardian  case. 


Soil  diseases:  sterilizing 

The  gardener  must  always  be  on  the  lookout  for  the  rotting- 
off  of  seedlings.  This  damping-off  is  a  common  ailment  of 
young  seedlings  and  cuttings.  Usually  the  stem  becomes 
brown  and  constricted  at  or  near  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and 
it  soon  rots  and  falls  over.  The  top  of  the  plant  often  remains 
alive  and  fresh  for  several  davs  after  it  has  fallen.  Various 
fungi  are  concerned  in  this  and  similar  disorders.  The  con- 
ditions which  seem  particularly  to  favor  the  development  of 

these  fungi  are  a 
moist  and  close 
atmosphere,  crowd- 
ing, and  careless 
watering.  Plants 
are  supposed  to  be 
particularly  liable 
to  damp-ofi^  if  so 
much  water  is  ap- 
T^      ^,      .         ,.        ,  ,      ,         ,    ,  plied  as   to   keep 

tiG.  21.     A  sterilizing  box  or  tray,  made  of  matcned      ,  „ 

boards  the    suriace   con' 


PROPAGATION   BY   MEANS   OF   SEEDS   AND   SPORES     41 


Fig.  22.     The  sterilizing  pan  or  tray,  put  face  down  on  a  seed-bed. 

stantly  wet.  Hot  sand,  sifted  over  the  plants,  will  check  it, 
but  there  is  no  complete  remedy.  As  soon  as  the  trouble 
appears,  give  more  air  and  prick  out  the  plants. 

While  there  may  be  no  remedy  for  these  soil-borne  diseases, 
there  is  good  preventive  in  the  sterilizing  of  the  earth  by  means 
of  heat.  The  commonest  method  is  to  invert  a  large  flat 
shallow  pan  or  tray  over  the  seed-bed  and  then  to  inject  live 
steam  beneath  it.  This  method  is  employed  extensively  in 
raising  lettuce  and  other  crops  under  glass,  and  also  in  frames 
and  yards  in  the  open.  Following  is  an  account  of  the  process 
by  E.  G.  Beinhart  in  Farmers'  Bulletin  996,  United  States 
Department  of  Agriculture  on 
"Steam  sterilization  of  seed-beds 
for  tobacco  and  other  crops"  (1918), 
the  illustrations  (Figs.  21,  22,  23;^ 
being  adapted : 

"The  equipment  recommended  for 
steam  sterilizing  seed-beds  under  average 
conditions  consists  of  the  following  : 

A   portable    boiler    of    20    horse- 
power or  larger  capacity. 

Heavy  f-inch  steam  hose,  25  feet. 
Tron  f-inch  pipe  sufficient  in  length 
to  carry  the  steam  from  the  boiler  to    Yig.  23.     The  nipple  connectioE 
all  parts  of  the  beds.  to  the  steam  box. 


42  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL^ 

Heavy  canvas  or  burlap,  216  square  feet. 
A  steaming  pan  to  cover  an  area  of  about  72  square  feet. 
Attachments  for  the  steaming  pan,  consisting  of  4  ring  bolts  6 
inches  long,  with  3-inch  rings;  4  bars  or  ax  handles;  felt  packing 
2  inches  wide,  sufficient  in  length  to  extend  around  the  pan;  the 
same  length  of  4-inch  hoop  iron  or  of  2-inch  angle  iron ;  one  f-inch 
nipple  6  or  7  inches  long,  threaded  on  both  ends ;  two  |-inch  leather 
gaskets ;  two  f -inch  nuts  or  tlireaded  washers. 
"The  boiler  is  the  item  of  greatest  expense,  the  rest  of  the  equipment 
being  comparatively  inexpensive.     With  proper  care  the  entire  apparatus 
should  last  for  a  number  of  vears. 

"A  boiler  of  sufficient  capacity  is  the  essential  factor  in  successful 
sterilization,  because  large  volumes  of  high-pressure  steam  are  required. 
Experience  has  shown  that  a  boiler  of  at  least  20-horsepower  is  necessary 
for  efficient  steam  production  when  using  a  steaming  pan  of  the  size  men- 
tioned above.  In  some  localities,  where  seed-beds  have  been  sterilized 
with  steam  for  a  number  of  years,  farmers  are  supplied  with  their  own 
boilers ;  in  other  places  one  boiler  is  used  cooperatively  by  several  planters. 
Road  rollers,  steam  tractors  and  packing-house  boilers  are  frequently 
called  into  use  for  seed-bed  work.  In  some  sections  the  owners  of  steam 
tractors  or  portable  boilers  go  from  place  to  place,  sterilizing  beds  at  fixed 
prices.  Such  operators  are  usually  supplied  with  all  necessary  equipment, 
though  sometimes  they  provide  only  the  boiler  and  a  fireman. 

"In  the  permanent  seed-bed  the  pan  is  of  such  \^-idth  as  to  fit  snugly 
within  the  sides  of  the  frame,  and  its  length  varies  according  to  require- 
ments. A  pan  having  an  area  of  72  square  feet  is  sufficient  for  a  20-  or 
25-horsepower  boiler,  and  a  larger  pan  is  difficult  to  move.  On  a  bed  6 
feet  wide  the  pan  should  be  12  feet  long.  Where  only  a  small  boiler  is 
available,  the  area  of  the  pan  should  be  correspondingly  reduced,  so  that 
the  boiler  can  maintain  the  desired  pressure  of  at  least  80  pounds. 

"Sterilizing  pans  made  of  galvanized  iron  have  been  extensively  em- 
ployed, but  as  wooden  pans  are  cheaper  and  are  easily  made  at  home,  wood 
is  the  material  now  coming  into  general  use.  The  wooden  pan  further 
possesses  the  distinct  advantage  of  reducing  the  loss  of  heat  by  radiation. 
"The  pan  is  simply  a  shallow  box  (Figs.  21,  22),  4  inches  being  the  pre- 
ferred depth.  If  it  is  deeper,  much  of  the  desired  effect  is  lost  through  the 
more  rapid  cooling  of  the  steam  in  the  larger  space  exposed  above  the  soil. 
The  frame  is  made  of  2  by  4  inch  material;  across  this  are  laid  matched 
boards  (|  by  4  inches).  It  is  advisable  to  put  white  lead  in  the  grooves 
to  prevent  the  escape  of  steam.  The  boards  must  be  securely  nailed  in 
the  tongue  and  at  the  sides  to  prevent  drawing,  as  they  swell  by  absorp- 


PROPAGATION   BY    MEANS   OF   SEEDS   AND   SPORES     43 

tion  of  moisture  during  the  process  of  steaming.  These  cover  boards 
are  further  secured  by  two  boards  or  planks  which  are  laid  over  them  on 
the  outside,  at  right  angles  to  them,  extending  the  length  of  the  box,  and 
which  are  very  seciu-ely  nailed  at  the  ends  (Fig.  21).  The  cover  boards 
are  then  nailed  from  the  inside  to  the  outside  plants,  the  object  being  to 
prevent  the  swelling  and  warping  of  the  cover  boards.  A  good  view  of 
the  inside  construction  of  the  box  is  shown  in  Fig.  2. 

"Two  ring-bolts  are  set  in  each  side  of  the  frame  on  the  top,  one  near 
each  corner.  Through  the  rings  ax  handles  or  bars  are  thrust  to  serve  as 
handles  in  moving  the  pan  along  the  bed. 

"A  strip  of  |-inch  felt  packing,  2  inches  wide,  is  placed  along  the  lower 
edge  of  the  frame,  on  the  outside,  to  prevent  the  escape  of  the  sterm.  The 
hoop  iron  is  then  laid  on  the  packing  and  nailed  every  4  inches,  one-half  its 
.vidth  extending  beyond  the  lower  edge  of  the  frame,  as  shown  in  Figs.  21 
and  23.  When  the  packing  cannot  be  had,  the  iron  is  nailed  to  the  inside 
of  the  frame  instead  of  the  outside.  Instead  of  the  hoop  iron,  2-inch 
angle  iron  is  sometimes  used.  This  is  fastened  to  the  lower  side  of  the 
frame,  to  form  a  tight  joint  when  the  box  is  laid  on  the  soil.  A  piece  of 
thin  packing  serves  to  prevent  the  escape  of  steam  between  the  iron  and 
the  bottom  of  the  wooden  frame  to  which  it  is  nailed.  Angle  iron,  because 
of  its  heavier  character,  will  not  bend  and  is  better  than  hoop  iron,  but  it 
requires  careful  working  to  fit  it  to  the  frame. 

"In  the  middle  of  one  end  of  the  frame  is  set  a  f-inch  pipe-threaded  nipple, 
6  or  7  inches  in  length,  through  which  the  steam  is  delivered  into  the  pan. 
The  nipple  should  project  3  inches  from  the  box,  to  afford  a  convenient  at- 
tachment for  the  hose,  and  it  should  be  held  securely  in  place  on  the  2  by  4 
inch  end  frame  by  lock  nuts,  closing  on  leather  gaskets,  as  shown  in  Fig.  23. 

"The  pan  is  placed  on  the  bed,  open  side  down,  the  hoop  iron  or  angle 
bar  cutting  into  the  ground  to  form  a  knife  joint,  and  the  steam  leaving  the 
boiler  under  pressure  enters  the  pan  and  quickly  penetrates  the  soil. 

"The  boiler  is  placed  close  to  the  bed  and  where  practicable  at  an  equal 
distance  from  each  end.  Steam  traction  engines  and  portable  boilers  have 
a  marked  advantage,  because  they  can  be  easily  moved  as  the  work  pro- 
gresses, allowing  the  use  of  a  short  pipe. 

"In  sandy  soils,  after  30  minutes'  steaming,  the  temperatures  to  be 
expected  in  the  upper  2  inches  of  soil  directly  under  the  pan  are  approxi- 
mately 208°  to  212°  F.,  at  3  to  4  inches  170°  to  180°,  and  at  6  inches  120°. 
Two  hours  after  the  removal  of  the  pan  the  temperature  at  6  inches  should 
be  about  160°  F.  If  a  thermometer  is  not  available,  the  efficiency  of  the 
steaming  operation  can  be  easily  determined  by  burying  a  potato  4  inches 
under  the  surface  of  the  soil.     The  potato  should  be  well  cooked  when 


44  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

the  pan  is  removed,  and  this  is  a  common  method  of  determining  the  work 
done  by  a  steaming  outfit.  Ahhough  the  temperatures  reached  directly 
under  the  pan  are  quite  high,  httle  heating  effect  is  to  be  noted  away  from 
the  edges  of  the  pan." 

Sowing  the  seed 

The  soil  in  which  seeds  are  sown,  especially  in  indoor  culture, 
should  be  such  as  to  allow  of  perfect  drainage  and  at  the  same 
time  to  hold  moisture.  Good  potting  soil,  with  a  liberal  allow- 
ance of  sharp  sand,  is  the  best  for  general  purposes.  Pure  sand 
becomes  too  dense,  and  leaf-mold  alone  is  usually  too  loose  and 
open.     A  proper  combination  of  the  two  corrects  both  faults. 

It  is  impossible  to  describe  a  good  potting  or  seed-bed  soil. 
Experience  is  essential  to  the  best  results  in  preparing  it.  It 
should  be  of  such  character  that  when  a  damp  portion  is  fy-mly 
compressed  in  the  hand  it  will  fall  apart  when  released.  It 
should  never  bake.  Good  old  garden  loam,  to  which  an  equal 
quantity  of  sand  has  been  added,  is  usually  a  good  soil  for  com- 
mon indoor  seedage.  There  should  be  no  manure  in  soil  used  for 
seeds  that  produce  a  delicate  growth,  as  rhododendrons  and  kal- 
mias.  In  all  such  cases,  rotted  sod  or  leafy  peat  is  an  excellent 
medium.  Live  sphagnum  moss  is  also  a  good  material  on  which 
to  sow  various  heath-like  seeds,  as  kalmias,  andromedas,  and  the 
like.  Coconut  fiber  is  sometimes  used  in  place  of  the  soil,  as  it 
holds  moisture,  allows  of  almost  perfect  drainage,  and  does  not 
become  "sour."     Fine  dead  sphagnum  moss  may  also  be  used. 

Soil  should  be  sifted  and  thoroughly  fined  before  seeds  are 
put  into  it.  Seeds  usually  require  lighter  soil  than  that  in 
which  the  growing  plant  will  flourish.  Orchid  seeds  are  commonly 
sown  on  the  live  moss  in  which  the  parent  plant  is  growing; 
or  they  may  be  sown  on  damp  wood  or  cork.  (See  under 
Orchids,  Part  II.)  Small  seeds,  as  those  of  cineraria  and 
calceolaria,  germinate  well  in  very  old  cow  dung  obtained  from 
a  pasture,  from  which  the  unctuous  matters  have  disappeared, 


PROPAGATION   BY   MEANS   OF   SEEDS   AND   SPORES     45 


leaving  a  fibrous  remainder.     But  all  things  considered,  well- 
prepared  soil  is  the  most  satisfactory  medium  for  most  seeds. 

Seeds  of  aquatic  plants,  to  be  sown  in  a  pond,  may  be  placed 
in  a  ball  of  clay  and  dropped  into  the  water  (page  15).  Water-lily 
seeds  may  be  sown  in  the  greenhouse  in  submerged  pots  or  pans. 

Shallow  boxes  or  "flats"  and  earthen  seed-pans  and  lily-pans 
are  usually  preferable  to  pots  in  which  to  sow  seeds.  They 
give  more  surface  in  proportion  to  their  contents,  and  require 
less  attention  to  drainage  (Fig. 
24).  If  pots  are  used,  the  4-  to 
8-inch  sizes  are  best.  All  del- 
icate seeds,  as  tuberous  be- 
gonias, primulas,  gloxinias,  and 
also  spores,  are  usually  sown 
in  pots  or  pans,  which  are 
covered  with  a  pane  of  glass. 
(See  Fig.  4.) 

If  delicate  seeds  are  sown 
outdoors,  they  should  be  given  protection,  if  possible.  An 
ordinary  hotbed  frame  gives  the  best  results.  In  warm 
weather  or  a  sunny  exposure  it  will  be  desirable  to  substitute 
a  cloth  screen  for  the  sash.  A  thin  or  medium  water- 
proof plant-cloth,  either  commercial  or  home-made,  is  excellent 
for  this  purpose.  It  may  be  tacked  on  a  simple  and  light 
rectangular  frame  strengthened  by  iron  "carriage-corners." 
These  cloth-covered  frames  are  handy  for  many  purposes, 
particularly  for  protecting  and  supplying  a  little  warmth  to 
seed-pans  and  young  seedlings. 

It  is  essential  that  good  drainage  be  given  all  indoor  seed-pots 
or  seed-beds.  A  layer  of  broken  pots  or  other  coarse  material  is 
placed  on  the  bottom.  Many  growers  place  a  thin  layer  of  fine 
dead  sphagnum  moss  or  of  peat  over  this  drainage  material^ 
and  it  is  useful  in  preventing  too  rapid  drying  of  the  bottom  of 
the  pots.    It  is  particularly  useful  in  isolated  pots  or  small  boxes 


Fig.  24.  A  pan  of  seedlings,  now 
ready  to  be  "pricked  out"  or  trans- 
planted. 


46  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Over  the  moss,  coarse  siftings  from  the  soil  may  be  placed, 
while  on  top  only  the  finest  and  best  soil  should  be  used.  The 
smaller  the  seeds,  the  more  care  must  be  exercised  in  the  sowing. 
The  proper  depth  for  sowing  varies  diiectly  with  the  size 
of  the  seed.  A  direct  advantage  of  very  fine  soil  for  small 
seeds  is  the  greater  exactness  of  depth  of  covering  which  it 
allows.  Very  small  seeds  should  be  sown  on  the  surface, 
which  has  previously  been  well  firmed  and  leveled,  and  then 
covered  with  a  very  thin  layer  of  finely  sifted  soil  or  a  little 
old  and  dead  moss  rubbed  through  a  sieve.     This  covering 

should  be  scarcely  deeper  than  the 
ffi  thickness  of  the  seeds ;  that  is,  the 

seeds    should    be    barely    covered. 

Many  persons  prefer  pressing  the 

Fig.  25.    Planting  stick.         f^^^s  into  the  soil  with  a  block.     Or 

if  one  has  a  close  propagating-box, 
the  seeds  may  remain  on  the  surface  and  sufficient  moisture 
will  be  supplied  from  the  atmosphere. 

Such  fine  seeds  are  rarelv  watered  directlv,  as  even  the 
most  careful  treatment  would  be  likely  to  dislodge  them. 
The  soil  is  usually  well  watered  before  the  seeds  are  sown,  or 
moisture  may  be  supplied  by  inserting  the  pot  in  water  nearly 
to  its  rim  for  a  few  minutes.  If  water  is  applied  from  a  rose, 
a  thin  cloth  should  first  be  spread  on  the  soil  to  hold  it.  Celery 
seeds,  in  outdoor  beds,  are  often  sown  on  a  smoothly  prepared 
surface  and  are  then  pressed  in  by  means  of  the  feet  or  a  board. 
Cover  to  prevent  evaporation  should  be  given  all  small  seeds. 
This  may  be  a  board  or  a  slate  slab  at  first,  but  as  soon  as  the 
plants  appear  glass  should  be  substituted  to  admit  light. 
(See  pages  16,  17.) 

Large  seeds  demand  much  less  care  as  to  depth  of  cover- 
ing, as  a  rule.  One-fourth  or  one-half  inch  is  a  good  depth 
for  most  coarse  seeds  indoors.  If  one  wishes  to  gauge  the 
depth  accurately,  the  drills  may  be  made  by  a  planting  stick. 


PROPAGATION   BY   MEANS   OF   SEEDS   AND   SPORES     47 


like  that  shown  in  Fig.  25.     Its  flange  is  made  of  the  required 
thickness,  and  it  is  pressed  into  the  soil  until  the  cap  strikes 


Fig.  26.     Tracy  seed-planter. 

the  surface.  This  is  a  useful  implement  in  seed-testing. 
Another  device  for  regulating  the  depth  of  sowing,  particularl}' 
in  seed-testing,  is  the  Tracy  planter,  shown  in  Fig.  26.  It 
consists  of  two  strips  of  heavy  tin  plate  about  three  inches 
wide,  hung  on  two  wire  pivots  or  hinges  some  two  inches  long. 
At  their  upper  edges,  and  equidistant  from  either  end,  the 
plates  are  joined  by  a  firm  spiral  spring,  which  serves  to  throw 
the  upper  edges  apart,  and  to  cause  the  lower  edges  to  join. 
Ihe  trough  is  now  filled  with  the  required  number  of  seeds, 
and  is  then  inserted  into  the  earth  to  a  given  depth,  when 
the  fingers  push  inward  on 
the  springs  and  the  trough 
opens  and  delivers  the 
seeds. 

Delicate  seeds,  sown  out 
of  doors,  should  be  given 
a  very  accessible  location, 
because  they  will  need 
constant  watching  in  dry 
weather  and  during  heavy 
rains.  A  border  along  a 
wall  is  a  favorite  site  for 
a  seed-bed.  A  French 
method  of  preparing  such  a 
bed    is   shown    in   Fig.  27 

(after  Mottet) .  Fig.  27.     Seed-border. 


48 


THE    NURSERY-MANUAL 


Fig.  28.  Seed-box,  with  side  removed  to 
show  the  drainage  and  rough  material  in 
the  bottom  and  the  fine  soil  on  top. 


English  advice 

The  English  gardener  is  known  for  his  good  training  and 
his  care  to  details.  The  following  advice  is  chosen  from  The 
Garden  (London)  for  April  14,  1917 : 

"The  receptacles  in  which  the  seed  is  to  be  sown  need  to  be  selected 
with  some  care.  Boxes  or  pans  3  inches  or  rather  more  in  depth  are  pre- 
ferred by  many ;  but  where  only 
a  little  seed  of  a  kind  is  needed, 
an  ordinary  flower-pot,  5  inches^ 
or  6  inches  in  diameter  at  the  top, 
answers  well,  and  does  not  take 
up  a  lot  of  room.  Whatever  is 
used  must  be  scrupulously  clean 
and  have  ample  outlet  at  the 
bottom  for  waste  water;  stag- 
rant  moisture  in  the  soil  kills  more  seedlings  under  cool  conditions  than 
anything  else.  The  boxes  ought  to  have  holes  three-quarters  of  an  inch 
or  1  inch  in  diameter  in  their  bottoms,  five  holes  not  being  too  much  for  a 
box  measuring  15  inches  by  12  inches.  Over  these  holes  a  layer  of  broken 
pots,  or  crocks  as  they  are  termed,  must  be  placed,  then  some  rough 
fibrous  material,  and,  finally,  the  fine,  sifted  soil.  Fig.  28  shows  a  box 
with  one  side  removed.  Note  the  crocks  and  rough  and  fine  soil.  This 
is  a  large  box;  consequently  a  dividing  board  is  placed  across  the  center 
so  that  two  kinds  of  seed  may 
be  sown  in  it,  one  at  each  end. 
"The  soil  for  seed-sowing  is 
quite  as  important  as  the 
drainage.  For  the  majority  of 
the  seedlings  that  the  average 
beginner  is  likely  to  want  to 
raise,  the  following  mixture 
will  answer  well :  Good  turfy 
loam,  well  chopped  and  passed 
through  a  1-inch  meshed  sieve, 
two  parts ;  leaf-soil,  well  de- 
cayed and  sifted  through  the 
same  sieve,  half  a  part ;  and  coarse  sand,  half  a  part.  Retain  the  coarse 
material  that  is  left  in  the  sieve  for  placing  over  the  drainage.     In  some 


Fig.  29.  The  sowing  in  the  seed-box  (Fig. 
28).  Large  seeds  may  be  placed  separately, 
as  shown  at  the  right.  The  small  ones  may 
be  mixed  with  dry  sand  and  firmed  into  the 
earth  by  means  of  the  press-block. 


PROPAGATION   BY   MEANS   OF   SEEDS   AND   SPORES     49 


localities  it  is  difficult  to  procure  turfy  loam,  but  every  endeavor  to  do  so 
should  be  made,  as  there  is  no  good  substitute.  With  leaf-soil  it  is  different. 
Cocoanut  fiber  refuse  or  hop  manure  may  well  take  its  place.  Having  placed 
the  drainage  and  soil  in  position,  as  shown  in  Fig.  28,  press  the  whole 
down  gently  with  the  presser  shown  at  the  right  of  Fig.  29.  The  edge  of 
this  is  useful  for  making  lines  when  it  is  desired  to  sow  the  seed  in  rows. 
"If  there  is  one  thing  more  than  any  other  that  the  beginner  needs 
warning  against,  it  is  thick  sowing.  No  matter  how  often  this  warning 
is  given,  it  is  seldom  fully  ac- 
cepted, and  thousands  of  seed- 
lings are  wasted  every  spring  by 
too  thick  sowing.     Seeds   differ  T^^S^wi:',,,, 

....  If  ■//^^l™^^^     -I'll  ? 

very  considerably  in  size,  and  it  *— ^ I      ■/i/iw^mM,n%\ 

is  not  difficult  to  place  the  large    i 

ones  separately,  as  is  shown  at  /-.'.'.  /^  '  *  m^m-^^^s^. 

the  right  of  Fig.  29.     Very  small  /   .    .     -    n"-"! 

seeds  are  difficult  for  the  begin- 
ner, who  may  be  excused  for 
sowing  them  too  thickly.  As  an 
aid  to  the  thin  sowing  of  these  „^ 
small  seeds,  mix  them  with  some 
dry  silver  sand,  as  shown  at  the 

left  of  Fig.  29.     This  will  make     ^^^^^^^^^^■=-^^-:^^ 
a  greater  bulk  and,  if  the  mixing 
is   well   done,  will  insure  a  thin        Fig.  30.    Watering  small  seeds  through  a 
and  even  distribution.  perforated  paper.     A  coarse  muslin  may 

.      also  be  used  for  protection. 
After   the   seed   is   sown   it 

must  be  covered.  Here,  again,  there  is  a  great  deal  of  difference  to  be  ob- 
served. Thus,  very  small  seed  will  only  need  pressing  into  the  soil  with 
the  presser  shown  in  Fig.  29 ;  while  larger  seed  will  need  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick  covering  of  fine  soil.  The  larger  the  seed  the  greater  the  depth  of 
soil  for  covering,  is  a  good  general  rule  to  follow.  Do  not  press  down  the 
covering  soil  except  just  to  make  it  level,  and  it  is  well  to  have  rather  more 
sand  in  it  than  is  used  for  the  mixture  previously  advised  for  sowing. 

"It  is  no  uncommon  occurrence  to  find  choice  seed  that  has  been  care- 
fully sown  washed  out  of  the  seed-pans  or  boxes  during  the  process  of 
watering,  or,  if  not  actually  washed  out,  carried  all  to  one  side,  owing  to 
the  receptacle  not  standing  level.  Therefore,  stand  all  seed-pans,  boxes 
or  pots  as  level  as  possible  and  use  a  fine  rose  on  the  watering-can.  For 
very  small  seeds  a  sheet  of  paper,  freely  perforated  with  holes,  as  shown 
in  Fig,  30,  may  be  laid  over  the  soil  before  watering,  or  a  piece  of  coarse 


50  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

muslin  may  be  utilized  in  the  same  way,  although  this  is  apt  to  adhere  to 
the  soil.  Pots  and  small  pans  can  be  immersed  nearly  to  their  rims  in  a 
bucket  of  water,  allowing  the  liquid  to  saturate  the  soil  from  below  upwards. 
After  the  so^^^ng  and  watering  are  completed,  keep  the  frame  or  house 
fairly  close  until  germination  has  taken  place,  after  which  ventilation 
must  be  afforded  as  freely  as  outside  conditions  will  admit.  Give  water 
whenever  the  soil  is  at  all  dry,  but  avoid  overdoing  it.  Remember,  seed- 
lings in  an  early  stage  do  not  want  large  quantities  of  water;  but,  on  the 
other  hand,  they  must  not  be  allowed  to  become  dry." 

Soidng  spores 

Ferns,  lycopodiums  and  selaginellas  are  often  growTi  from 
spores.  The  general  conditions  required  for  the  germination 
of  very  fine  seeds  are  also  suitable  for  the  germination  of  spores, 
but  extra  care  must  be  taken  with  the  drainage.  If  a  pot  is 
used,  it  should  be  half  or  more  filled  with  drainage  material, 
and  the  soil  should  be  made  loose  by  the  addition  of  bits  of 
brick,  charcoal,  cinders  or  other  porous  materials.  The  sur- 
face soil  should  be  fine  and  uniform.  Some  persons  place  a 
thin  layer  of  brick-dust  on  the  surface,  in  which  the  spores  are 
sown.  It  is  a  frequent  practice  to  bake  the  soil  to  destroy  other 
spores  that  might  cause  troublesome  growths. 

The  spores  should  be  sprinkled  on  the  surface  and  not  covered. 
The  pot  should  be  set  in  a  saucer  of  water,  or  in  damp  moss, 
and  it  should  be  covered  by  paper  or  a  pane  of  glass  if  the  sun 
strikes  it  or  it  is  in  a  draughty  place.  Better  results  are  ob- 
tained if  the  pot  or  pan  is  placed  inside  a  propagating-frame  or 
under  a  bell-glass.  In  place  of  earth,  a  block  or  small  cubes  of 
firm  peat  or  sandstone  may  be  employed  (Fig.  3  right ;  Fig.  5). 
The  block  is  placed  in  a  saucer  of  water  and  the  spores  are 
sown  on  its  surface.  Water  should  not  be  applied  directly  to 
the  spores,  as  it  dislodges  them. 

The  period  of  germination  varies  in  different  species,  but 
three  to  six  weeks  mav  be  considered  the  ordinarv  limits. 

Spores  are  so  exceedingly  small  and  light  that  the  greatest 


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PROPAGATION   BY   MEANS   OF   ^EEDS   AND   SPORES     51 

care  must  be  exercised  in  handling  them.  To  gather  them, 
the  fronds  may  be  cut  as  soon  as  the  sori  or  fruit-dots  turn 
brown,  and  stored  in  close  boxes  or  paper  bags.  When  the 
spores  begin  to  discharge  freely,  the  frond  may  be  shaken  over 
the  pot,  or  it  may  be  broken  up  and  pieces  of  it  laid  on  the  soil. 
While  still  very  small,  the  sporelings  should  be  pricked  out, 
and  for  some  time  thereafter  they  should  be  subjected  to  the 
vsame  conditions  as  before. 

Forestry  practice 

The  propagation  of  forest  trees  is  conducted  on  a  great 
scale  in  many  parts  of  the  country,  largely  as  governmental 
enterprises.  This  constitutes  a  special  department  of  nursery 
practice,  and  it  cannot  be  discussed  in  this  book ;  but  some  of 
the  seed-bed  methods  may  be  indicated  as  a  supplement  to 
the  discussion.  Those  who  desire  to  inform  themselves  on 
forest-tree  nursery  work  should  consult  the  state  and  federal 
publications,  chapters  in  books  on  forestry,  and  Toumey's 
"Seeding  and  Planting  in  the  Practice  of  Forestry"  (Wiley, 
1916).  The  following  descriptions  are  adapted  from  "Nursery 
Practice  on  the  National  Forests,"  Bull.  479,  Contr.  For.  Serv., 
by  C.  R.  Tillotson  (1917),  the  pictures  (except  one)  being  taken 
from  the  same  publication  but  mostly  re-drawn  from  the 
half-tones. 

« 

"The  seeds  are  sown  in  beds,  with  the  exception  of  certain  special  cases 
in  which  flats  or  even  pots  may  be  used.  The  beds  are  staked  off  uni- 
formly and  with  mathematical  precision,  to  render  calculations  easy  and 
to  make  possible  the  employment  of  uniform  methods  in  subsequent  work. 
A.  4-foot  width  facilitates  sowing,  covering  and  weeding  operations. 
Forty  inches  has  been  found  to  be  a  desirable  width  where  burlap  is  used 
as  a  cover.  Where  damage  from  rodents  or  birds  is  possible  small  beds 
4  by  12  feet  are  desirable,  because  they  are  easily  protected  by  tlie  use  of 
screened  frames. 

"The  seed  may  be  sown  in  drills  or  broadcast.     For  drill  sowing  across 


52 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


Marker 


Fig.  31. 


the  beds  a  marker  (Fig.  31),  hinged  seeding-board  (Fig.  33),  and  a  seed- 
trough  (Fig.  34)  have  proved  highly  efficient.     The  marker  consists  of  a 

plank  4  feet  long,  15  inches 
wide  and  1^  inches  thick, 
with  two  handles  project- 
ing beyond  each  end,  and 
with  triangular  strips  of 
wood  from  ^  inch  to  1  _xioh 
thick  on  a  side  and  4  feet 
long,  nailed  longitudinally 
and  parallel,  from  3  to  6 
inches  apart,  on  its  imder 
side.  By  pressing  these 
triangular  strips  or  cleats 
into  the  soft  earth  of  the 
prepared  seed-bed  perfect 
V-shaped  depressions  can 
be  made  of  the  depth  desired.  Two  men  can  mark  from  100  to  200,  4  by 
12  foot  beds  per  day  with  this  board,  depending  on  the  depth  desired 


Fig.  32.     Concrete  marker-roller. 


Ming-ed  Seeding  Boa nd 

?st  seeds.     A 
sbown  in  Fig.  34. 


Hinge 
Fig.  33.     A  seeding-board  for  forest  seeds.     A  cross-section  of  thia  board  ia 


PROPAGATION   BY    MEANS   OF   SEEDS   AND   SPORES     53 


Seed  Trough 


MllV 


^^''  Cross-section  of  Seeding  Board 

rHini 


Fig.  34.     A  seeding-trough,  used  by  foresters. 


and  the  condition  of  the  soil.     Another  kind  of  marker,  made  of  cement 
and  drawn  by  two  men,  is  shown  in  Fig.  32. 

"The  seeding-board  consists  of  two  strips  of  board  4^  feet  long,  3  inches 
wide  and  f-inch  in  thickness  (narrow  bevel  siding  is   sometimes  used), 
joined  edge  to  edge  by  a  small  hinge  at  each  end.     The  adjoining  edges  of 
the  boards  for  a  dis- 
tance  of   4  feet   (the 
width  of  the  seed  beds) 
are    beveled    on    the 
top  side  between  the 
hinges,  one  edge  much 
more  than  the  other, 
so  that  a  shoulder  is 
formed  on  which  seed 
uniformly   distributed 


'•i-^-': 


"-^yn: 


^m^ 


will  remain  when  the 
board  is  dipped  into 
the  trough  partly  filled 
with  seed,  then  tipped 
each  way  so  that  all 

superfluous    ones    will    pj^,    35      Protected  nursery  beds,  with  and  without 
fall     back     into     the  low  cover,  and  a  water  supply  at  hand. 


54 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


trough.  By  varying 
the  depth  of  the  groove 
and  the  width  of  the 
shoulder  on  the  adjoin- 
ing side  the  board  can 
be  made  to  sow  any 
quantity  desired.  One 
of  the  outer  edges  of 
the  board  is  beveled 
far  back  on  the  under 
side  so  as  to  offer  no 
obstruction  when  the 
seed  is  dipped.  Two  men  operate  it,  one  at  each  side  of  the  bed.  The 
board  is  dipped  mth  a  swinging  motion  into  the  trough  and  then  lowered 
and  held  close  over  the  drill  to  be  seeded ;  the  hinges  are  bent  upward,  and 
the  seeds  fall  into  the  drill. 


Fig.  36.     Overhead  protection,  with  a  slat  cover. 


Fig.  37.     A  form  of  low  shading.     The  beds  on  the  right  are  covered  with  bur- 
lap, those  on  the  left  protected  by  slat  screen.     Windbreaks  are  provided. 


^^~^=icS\ 


Fig.  38.     Nursery  beds  covered  for  the  winter. 


PROPAGATION   BY   MEANS   OF   SEEDS   AND   SPORES     55 


Conifer 
lings. 


seed- 


"The  seeding-trough  is  a  device  for  holding  the 

seeds.     It  is  8  inches  deep,  rounded  slightly  on 

the  bottom  and  up  one  side,  from  10  to  14  inches 

wide,  and  5  feet  long.     It  is  mounted  on  legs, 

raising  it  from  16  to  24  inches  above  the  ground. 

The  trough  is  set  to  straddle  a 
seed-bed  in  which  drills  have 
been  made,  as  indicated  in  the 
illustration  (Fig.  34)." 

The     beds      are      provided 
with  protection  against  winds, 
rodents,  birds,  sun  and  winter 
cold,  by  means  of  windbreaks 
and      divers      coverings      and 
screens.      Some    of    these    are 
shown    in    Figs.    35-38.      The 
seedlings     are     given     careful 
attention    in    shading,    water- 
ing,    weeding,    tilling,    winter   ^^^-    39. 
mulching        and        otherwise. 
Young    seedlings     are    shown    in    Fig. 
39.     A  very  long  and  undesirable  tap- 
root  system   is   illustrated    in    Fig.   40. 
This    development    is    sometimes    cor- 
rected  by  root-pruning  in  the  nursery 
bed  by  means  of  a  knife  thrust  under 
the  plants.     Fig.  41  shows  a  specially 
good  development  of  a  season's  growth 
as  a  result  of  fall  seeding,  whereby  the 
Fig.  40.   Seed-   plant    gets    an    early    start    in    spring. 

yeUowpinl^^^^^^    ?^^*^^   ^^^^^^    ^^'   "^e-half    inch    to  two 

inches  can  be  produced  in  one  year  by 
fall  than  by  spring  sowing.  The  increased  growth  may 
mean  the  shortening  by  a  year  of  the  length  of  time 
necessary  for  growing  stock  to  a  size  suitable  for  field 
planting. 

Forest  nui  series  operate  with  such  numbers  of 
plants,  which  must  be  cheaply  produced,  and  the  Fig.  4i.  Doug- 
species  involved  in  the  processes  are  relatively  so  \^l^^  /aiilown 
few,  that  highly  standardized  methods  soon  arise,  seed. 


/^} 


'^Sft,(A5\ 


CHAPTER  III 

PROPAGATION   BY   MEANS    OF   SEPARATION   AND 

DIVISION 

Seeds  are  not  the  only  parts  or  organs  that  naturally  detach 
themselves  from  the  parent  plant  and  serve  as  the  beginning 
of  new  individuals,  as  we  have  learned  in  Chapter  I ;  and 
many  plants  are  capable  of  being  divided  at  the  root  into  two 
or  more  parts  or  plants.  The  "bulb  catalogue"  of  the  seeds- 
men  indicates  how  extensive  is  this  asexual  means  of  multi- 
plication. 

1.     SEPARATION 

Separation,  or  the  multiplication  of  plants  by  means  of 
naturally  detachable  vegetative  organs,  is  effected  by  means 
of  bulbs,  bulbels,  bulb-scales,  bulblets,  corms,  cormels,  tubers 
and  sometimes  bv  buds. 

Bulbs  of  all  kinds  are  specialized  buds.  They  are  made  up 
of  a  short  and  rudimentary  axis  closely  incased  in  transformed 
and  thickened  leaves  or  bulb-scales.  These  thickened  parts 
may  be  stored  with  nutriment  used  in  subsequent  growth. 
Bulbs  occur  in  plants  accustomed  to  a  long  period  of  inactivity. 
Many  bulbous  plants  are  peculiar  to  dry  and  arid  regions, 
where  growth  is  impossible  in  long  intervals.  A  bulb,  therefore, 
is  a  more  or  less  permanent  and  compact  leaf-bud,  usually  occu- 
pying the  base  of  the  stem  under  ground  and  emitting  roots 
from  its  lower  part.  Bulbs  are  conveniently  divided  into  two 
great  classes  —  the  scaly,  or  those  composed  of  narrow  and 
mostly  loose  scales,  as  in  the  lily,  and  laminate  or  tunicate,  or 

56 


PROPAGATION   BY   SEPARATION    AND    DIVISION       57 


those  made  up  of  more  or  less  contin- 
uous and  close-fitting  layers  or  plates, 
HS  in  the  onion. 

Bulbs  often  break  up  or  divide  them- 
selves into  two  or  more  nearly  equal 
portions,  as  in  Lilium  candidnm,  shown 
one  third  natural  size  in  Fig.  42.  The 
parts  may  be  separated  and  treated 
as  complete  bulbs  for  purposes  of  prop- 
agation. This  division  or  separation  of 
bulbs    proceeds   in    a   different   wav   in  ^^°-  ^2-    Bulb  of  Lilium 

^    .      .  ,      .  ^'  candidum. 

every  species,  yet  it  is  so  obvious  that 

the  novice  need  not  be  perplexed  by  it.  Almost  any  break- 
ing apart  of  thes-^  loose  bulbs,  if  only  a  "heart"  or  central  axis 
remains  in  each  portion,  is  successful  for  purposes  of  slow 
multiplication ;  but  when  flowers  are  desired  it  is  usually  ad- 
visable to  keep  the 
bulbs  as  strong  and 
compact  as  possible. 

Bulbous  plants  mul- 
tiply most  easily  by 
means  of  hidhels  — 
often  also  called  bulb- 
ules  —  or  small  bulbs 
borne  about  a  large  or 
mother-bulb.  These 
bulbels  are  sometimes 
called  offsets,  but  this 
term  is  more  properly 
applied  to  more  leafy 
or  sucker-like  parts, 
and  to  rosettes,  as  the 
'}'.ifW''   c)  growths  on  a  pineapple, 

Fig.  43.    Bulbels  of  tuiio  at  s.  A,  s.  the  separates  in  house- 


58 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


leek,   and  the   like   (page  4).     The  bulbels  of  the  tulip  are 
shown  in  Fig.  43.     Tn  one  of  the  lilies  (Fig.  44)  two  bulbs  have 

formed  at  the  crown  of  the  old  one. 
In  some  lilies,  as  Liliwn  candidum, 
the  bulbels  form  at  the  top  or 
crown  of  the  mother-bulb,  and  a 
circle  of  roots  is  found  between  them 
and  the  bulb;  in  others,  as  L. 
speciosum  and  L.  auratum,  they 
form  on  the  lower  part  of  the  flower- 
stalk.  In  some  species  the  bulbels 
are  few  and  very  large,  or  even 
single,  and  they  bloom  the  follow- 
ing year.  In  such  cases  the  bulb 
undergoes  a  progressive  movement 
from  year  to  year  after  the  man- 
ner of  rootstocks,  the  bulb  of  one 
year  bearing  a  more  or  less  distinct 
one  above  and  beyond  it,  which  con- 
tinues the  species,  while  the  old  one 
becomes  weak  or  dies.  This  method 
of  bulb  formation  is  seen  in  the  cut  of  Liliwn  pardaUnum,  Fig. 
45.  In  the  hvacinth  the  bulbels  form  at 
the  base  of  the  bulb. 

Bulbels  vary  greatly  in  size  and  fre- 
quency in  different  species.  Sometimes 
they  are  no  larger  than  a  grain  of  wheat 
the  first  year,  and  in  other  plants  they 
are  as  large  as  hickory-nuts.  In  some 
species  they  are  borne  habitually  under- 
neath the  scales  of  the  mother  bulb. 

The  bulbels  are  often  removed  when 
the  mother-bulbs  are  taken  up,  and  they  are  usually  planted 
in  essentially  the  same  way  as  the  bulbs  themselves,  although 


Fig.    44.      Two    bulbs    ot 
formed  from  one. 


Hlv 


Fig.   45.     Bulb  of  Lilium 
pardalinum. 


PROPAGATION    BY   SEPARATION    AND    DIVISION       59 


it  is  desirable  to  place  them,  at  least  for  the  first  year,  in  a 

bed  or  border  where  they  may  receive  careful  attention ;  or, 

if  they  are  especially  small  and  delicate, 

they  may  be  planted  in  pots  or  flats  and 

be  treated  about  the  same  as  single-eye 

cuttings.     In  some  lilies,  the  bulbels  are 

allowed    to    remain    attached,    and    the 

whole  mass  is  planted  in  autumn  in  close 

drills.     Sometimes  the  larger  lily  bulbels 

may   produce   flowers  the  following    (or 

first)  season,  but  they  usually  require  the 

whole  of  the  second  season  in  which  to      fig.  46.      Cut  hya 

complete  their  growth.     The  second  au-  cinth  bulb  with  resulting 

,  ,  ,       bulbels. 

tumn  they  are  ready  to  be  permanently 

planted.     Bulbels  of  some  species  require  even  a  longer  time 

in  which  to  mature  into  bulbs. 

Bulbels  are  sometimes  produced  by  an  injury  to  the  bulb. 
Growth  of  stem  and  leaves  is  more  or  less  checked  and  the 
energy  is  directed  to  the  formation  of  minute  buds,  or  bulbs, 
as  adventitious  buds  form  on  a  wounded  stem.  Advantage  is 
taken  of  this  fact  to  multiply  some  bulbous  plants,  and  in  the 
case  of  the  hyacinths,  at  least,  the  mutilation  of  bulbs  for  this 

purpose  is  practiced  to  a  commercial  ex- 
tent. Hyacinth  bulbs  are  cut  in  two,  or 
are  slashed  in  various  ways.  The  favor- 
ite method  is  to  make  deep  transverse 
cuts  into  the  base  of  the  bulb  (Fig.  46). 
The  strongest  bulbs  should  be  chosen, 
and  the  operation  is  performed  in  spring 
or  earlv  summer,  when  the  bulb  is  taken 
up.  The  bulbs  are  sometimes  hollowed 
out  from  the  under  side  for  half  or  more 
of  their  depth.  This  operation  is  sometimes  performed  later 
in  the  season  than  the  other,  and  precaution  sliould  be  exer- 


47.      Hollowed  hya- 
cinth bulb. 


60  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

cised  that  the  bulbs  do  not  become  too  moist,  else  they  will 
rot.  Hollowed  bulbs  should  be  well  dried  before  being 
planted.  Both  methods  of  preparing  hyacinth  bulbs  are 
shown  in  Figs.  46  and  47,  the  latter  adapted  from  the 
Gardener's  Chronicle.  The  mutilated  bulbs  are  stored 
during  summer,  and  are  planted  in  fall  or  spring.  The 
wounded  bulbs  produce  very  little  fohage,  but 
at  the  end  of  the  first  season  the  bulbels  will 
have  formed.  The  bulbels  are  then  separated 
and  planted  by  themselves  in  prepared  beds. 
Several  years  are  required  for  the  bulbels  to  ma- 
ture into  flowering  bulbs.  Some  of  the  strongest 
ones  may  produce  flowering  bulbs  in  three  years, 
Fig.  48.  Bulb  but  some  of  them,  especially  those  obtained  from 
scale.  ^YiQ  hollowed  bulbs,  will  not  mature  short  of  six- 

years.     This    method    of    propagating   hyacinths   is    confined 
mostlv  to  Holland. 

The  scales  of  bulbs  are  often  employed  to  multiply  scarce 
varieties.  From  ten  to  thirty  of  the  thicker  scales  may  be 
removed  from  the  outside  of  a  large  bulb  without  serious  injury 
to  it.  These  scales  are  treated  in  the  same  way  as  single-eye 
cuttings.  They  are  usually  handled  in  flats  or  propagating- 
frames,  and  are  pressed  perpendicularly  into  a  light  and  loose 
soil  —  half  sharp  sand  and  half  leaf-mold  —  for  nearly  or  quite 
their  entire  length,  or  they  may  be  scattered  in  damp  moss. 
Keep  the  soil  merely  moist,  and  for  hardy  and  half-hardy 
species  hold  the  temperature  rather  low  —  from  45°  to  60°. 
Slight  bottom  heat  may  sometimes  be  given  to  advantage.  In 
three  to  ten  weeks  a  little  bulbel,  or  sometimes  two  or  more, 
will  appear  at  the  base  of  the  scale,  as  shown  in  Fig.  48. 

Late  autumn  or  early  winter  is  a  proper  time  for  planting 
bulb  scales.  The  pots  or  flats  may  be  plunged  outdoors  in 
summer  if  the  planting  was  made  in  winter,  or  the  scales  may 
be  potted  off  or  transferred  to  the  open  border  as  soon  as  root- 


PROPAGATION   BY    SEPARATION   AND    DIVISION       61 


lets  have  formed.  It  is  the  common  practice  with  most  hardy 
species  to  allow  the  scales  to  remain  in  the  original  flats  during 
summer  and  to  cover  them  the  next  fall,  allowing  them  to  remain 
outdoors  over  winter.  The  succeeding  spring  they  are  shifted 
into  a  bed  or  border,  and  by  the  next  autumn  —  having  had 
two  summers'  growth  —  most  species  will  be  ready  for  per- 
manent planting  in  the  flower  border  for 
bloom  the  following  season. 

A  bulblet  is  a  small  bulb  borne  entirely 
above  ground,  usually  in  the  axil  of  a  leaf  or 
in  the  flower-cluster.  Familiar  examples 
occur  in  the  tiger  lily  and  in 


''top"  onions.  In  the  former 
example,  the  bulblets  are  direct 
transformations  of  buds,  while 
in  the  onion  they  take  the 
place  of  flowers.  It  is  impos- 
sible to  draw  any  sharp  line 
of  separation  between  bulblets 
and  buds.  In  some  plants, 
certain  buds  detach  themselves 
and  fall  to  the  ground  to  mul- 
tiply the  species.  Sometimes  these  buds  vegetate  before  they 
fall  from  the  plants,  as  in  the  case  of  various  begonias  and 
ferns.  For  purposes  of  propagation,  bulblets  are  treated  in 
the  same  way  as  bulbels,  and  like  them,  they  reproduce  the 
variety  from  which  they  grow.  They  develop  into  full-grown 
bulbs  in  one  to  three  years,  according  to  the  species. 

A  conn  is  a  bulb-like  organ  that  is  solid  throughout,  although 
it  may  have  a  more  or  less  loose  covering  or  tunic.  Familiar 
examples  are  gladiolus  and  ixia.  Cormous  plants  are  multi- 
plied in  essentially  the  same  way  as  bulbous  species.  As  a 
rule,  a  new  corm  (or  sometimes  two  or  more)  is  produced  each 
year  above  the  old  one,  and  this  commonly  bears  flowers  thp 


Fig.  49.     Gladiolus  corm. 


62  THE    NURSERY-MANUAL 

following  season.  This  renewal  is  well  shown  in  the  gladiolus, 
Fig.  49.  The  illustration  shows  a  gladiolus  bottom,  half  size, 
when  taken  up  in  November.  At  the  base  are  seen  the  withered 
remains  of  the  corm  that  was  planted  in  the  spring,  and  above 
it  the  new  corm,  which  will  furnish  bloom  the  following  season. 

A  number  of  cormels  or  "spawn"  has  also  appeared  about 
the  base  of  the  new  corm  in  Fig.  49.  These  may  be  planted 
out  in  a  border  or  bed,  and  will  produce  mature  corms  in  one  or 
two  seasons.  The  larger  ones,  under  good  treatment,  often 
produce  bulbs  an  inch  in  diameter  the  first  season.  Some 
growers  keep  the  cormels  a  year  and  a  half  before  planting  them 
out  (that  is,  until  the  second  spring),  as  they  are  thought  to 
vegetate  more  evenly  under  such  treatment ;  in  this  case  they 
should  be  placed  in  sand  to  prevent  too  great  drying  out. 

Adventitious  cormels  may  be  produced  by  various  methods 
of  wounding  the  mother  corm,  and  this  practice  is  often  neces- 
sary, as  some  species  do  not  produce  cormels  freely.  Each 
bud  on  the  top  or  side  of  the  corm  may  be  made  to  produce  a 
separate  corm  by  cutting  a  deep  ring  around  it,  so  as  partly  to 
divide  it.  Or  the  corm  may  be  directly  cut  into  as  many 
separate  pieces  as  there  are  buds  or  eyes,  after  the  manner  of 
cutting  potatoes,  but  these  pieces  are  usually  handled  in  flats 
where  temperature  and  moisture  can  be  controlled.  Almost 
any  injury  to  such  vigorous  corms  as  those  of  the  gladiolus  and 
crocus  will  result  in  the  production  of  cormels,  if  care  is  taken 
that  the  corms  do  not  become  so  cold  and  wet  as  to  cause  them 
to  rot. 

2.    DIVISION 

The  word  division  is  commonly  applied  to  that  phase  of 
separation  in  which  the  parts  are  cut  or  broken  into  pieces, 
in  distinction  to  propagation  by  means  of  parts  that  naturally 
separate  at  the  close  of  the  season;  but  no  hard  and  fast  line 
can  be  drawn  between  the  two  operations.     Whilst  separation 


PROPAGATION   BY   SEPARATION   AND   DIVISION       63 


Is  mostly  concerned  with  bulb-like  and 

corm-like    organs,    division     operates 

mostly  with  tubers,  rootstocks,  suckers 

and  various  kinds  of  offsets. 
A  tuber  is  a  prominently  thickened 

portion  of  a  root  or  stem,  and   it  is 

usually    subterranean.      The    potato, 

sweet   potato  and  dahlia  furnish  good 

examples.     The   stem-tuber,    even    if 

underground,  has  more  or   less  well- 
marked  eves  or  buds,  as  the  common 

potato ;    the  word  tuber  is  sometimes 

restricted  to  thickened  parts  of  stems. 

Tuberiferous       plants 
are  multiplied  by  plant-  t.        ^„       ^^, 

-         ^    ,  1     ,        Fig.     50.        Oblong     tubers 

mg  these  tubers  whole,     under  the  crown  of  day-lily. 

or  in  many  cases  the 

tubers  may  be  cut  into  small  portions,  as 
described  in  Chapter  V,  in  the  descriptions  of 
cuttings.  In  hardy  species,  the  tubers  may 
be  allowed  to  remain  in  the  ground  over 
winter,  but  they  are  generally  dug  in  autunm 
and  stored  in  a  dry  and  cold  place,  but  where 
they  will  not  freeze. 

Tubers  are  of  endless  conformation.     Often 
thev  are  fascicled  underneath  the  crown  of  the 
plant,  as  in  the  garden  ranunculus  and  also  in 
the  dahlia  and  day-lily  (Fig.  50).     They  may 
occur  in  long  strings,  as  in  the  ground-nut  or 
apios.     In  the  garden  anemone  (A.  coronaria) 
^T^      they  are  irregular  and  fantastic  in  shape. 
Fig.  51.  Pseudo-       A  Special  form  of  stem-tuber  is  the  pseudobulb 
bulb    of    orchid,   (literally  "false  bulb")  of  many  orchids  (Fig. 

bearing  a  leaf   at    ^..        ,^  •       ^i  j    i,    lu    •       i       x 

the  top.  51).     In  some  species,  the  pseudobulb  is  short 


m 


THE   NURSERY- MANUAL 


and  represents  but  a  single  node ;  in  other  cases  it  may  com- 
prise two  or  several  internodes  or  joints  and  be  much  elon- 
gated. It  bears 
only  a  single  leaf, 
as  in  Fig.  51,  or 
several  leaves  or 
even  branches. 
The  rhizomes  are 
divided  in  some 
orchids  so  as  to 
leave  a  pseudo- 
bulb  to  each 
piece ;  or  the 
pseudobulb  may 
be  treated  as  a 
cutting  in  some 
species. 

An  offset  is  a 
crown  or  rosette 
of  leaves,  usually 
borne  next  the 
surface  of  the 
ground,  and  which 
in  time  may  de- 
tach itself  and 
form  an  independ- 
ent plant.  The 
best  examples  are 
the  house-leeks, 
plants  more  fa- 
miliarly known  as 
"hen-and-chick- 
ens  '  and  "man-and-wife."  These  olt'sets  take  root  readily, 
and  in  propagating  there  is  no  other  care  necessary  than  to 


Fig.  52.     Pineapple  with  slips  (three  showing)  at  TT, 
and  two  crowns  or  crown-slips  at  A  A. 


)} 


PROPAGATION   BY   SEPARATION   AND    DIVISION       65 


remove  and  plant  them.      Certain  leafy  j^^rowlng  offsets  are 
called  suckers  by  gardeners. 

Many  of  the  greenhouse  plants  are  propagated  by  the  leafy 
offsets,  as  pandanus  or  screw-pine,  billbergias,  upright  tilland- 


FiG.  53.     The  fruit  or  pineapple  reiroved  and  the  basal  slips  developed. 

.iias.     Some  of  the  palms  produce  offsets  or  suckers,  as,  foi 
example,  the  date  palm. 

The  pineapple  is  propagated  by  various  kinds  of  offsets, 
which  receive  special  names  by  pineapple  growers.  There  are 
five  general  kinds  of  offset  parts :  the  crown  or  top-shoot  oi 
the  fruit,  which  is  not  often  used  for  propagation ;  crown-slips, 
that  arise  at  the  base  of  the  crown  (AA,  Fig.  52) ;  slips  at  the 
base  of  the  fruit  (TT,  Fig.  52,  and  Figs.  53-55) ;  suckers  from 
the  base  of  the  plant  or  near  the  ground ;  separate  shoots  from 
underground  parts,  known  as  rattoons.  These  parts  are 
treated  as  cuttings  and  might  be  classified  under  Chaoter  V 


66 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


Fig.    54.      A    slip    fully    developed 
broken  from  the  plant. 


the  crowns.  The  rootstock 
grows  in  spring  and  summer, 
and  at  the  end  of  the  season 
each  branch  develops  a  strong 
terminal  bud,  which  usually 
produces  a  flowering  stem  the 
following  season.  The  root- 
stock  gradually  dies  away  at 
its  old  extremity  or  base, 
and  in  a  few  years  a  single 
individual  gives  rise  to  a 
considerable  "patch."  This 
is  well  shown  in  the  common 
May-apple  or  podophyllum. 

In  some  species  these 
crowns  are  removed  in  the 
autumn,  and  are  planted  and 
handled   in  much   the  same 


as  well  as  here.  The  prac- 
tice of  pineapple  propaga- 
tion is  explained  in  Part  II. 
A  crown  is  a  detachable 
portion  of  a  rootstock,  bear- 
ing roots  and  a  prominent 
bud.  Rhizomes  or  root- 
stocks  multiply  individuals 
and  extend  the  distribution* 
of  the  species  by  means  of 
a  progressive  movement  of 


Fig.  55.     A  pineapple  slip  stripped  and 
ready  for  setting. 


PROPAGATION   BY   SEPARATION   AND   DIVISION      67 


way  as  bulbs.  The  crown  or  "pip"  of 
the  lily-of -the- valley,  shown  in  Fig.  56, 
is  treated  in  this  way. 

Root«tocks  may  be  divided  into  as 
many  parts  as  there  are  eyes  or  buds, 
and  each  part  is  then  treated  as  an  in- 
dependent plant.  Familiar  examples  of 
such  division  are  the  common  practices 
of  multiplying  rhubarb  and  canna.  A 
canna  rootstock,  or  "stool,"  is  seen  in 
Fig.  57.  The  observer  is  looking  down 
on  the  top  of  the  stool;  and  the  five 
pieces  show  how  the  operator  has  divided 
it.  The  two  lower  pieces  on  the  left  show 
the  remains  of  the  flower-stalks  of  the 
previous  year.  If  the  variety  were  very 
scarce,  some  of  these  pieces  could  be 
again  divided  into  two  or  three. 


Fig.  57.     Canna  stool,  divided  into  five  plants. 


Fig.  56.  Lily-of-the-vallej- 
crown. 


Nearlv  all 
perennial  herbs 
may  be  mul- 
tiplied with 
more  or  less 
readiness  by 
simply  divid- 
ing the  crowns. 
Most  bushes 
may  be  sim- 
ilarly treated, 
as  lilacs,  many 
roses,  spireas 
and  the  like. 
The     general 


68  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

stock  species  of  herbaceous  border  plants  —  as  aquilegias, 
hemerocallis,  helianthus  —  are  commonly  grown  in  permanent 
small  areas  by  nurserymen,  and  plants  are  cut  out  of  the 
plot  as  orders  are  received.  If,  however,  the  nurseryman  is 
making  a  special  "run"  on  any  plant,  he  gets  his  stock  by 
dividing  up  the  crowns  or  rootstocks  into  small  portions,  and 
then  growing  these  for  a  season  in  specially  prepared  beds,  or 
sometimes  in  pots. 

Recent  experience  has  shown  that  etherization  of  plants 
may  have  important  influence  on  the  stimulation  of  offsets  in 
certain  species;  but  this  and  similar  treatments  are  yet  too 
little  understood  to  warrant  including  them  in  a  manual  oi 
standard  practices. 


CHAPTER  IV 

PROPAGATION  BY    MEANS    OF   LAYERS   AND    RUNNERS 

Many  plants  habitually  propagate  by  means  of  decumbent 
shoots  and  runners.  These  shoots  become  more  or  less  covered 
with  earth  or  leaves,  and  roots  are  formed,  usually  at  the  joints. 
In  many  cases,  the  old  shoots  die  away  and  an  entirely  inde- 


FiG.  58.     A  runner  of  strawberry. 

pendent  plant  arises  from  each  fascicle  of  roots. .  In  other 
plants,  the  shoots  remain  attached  to  the  parent,  at  least  for 
a  number  of  years,  so  that  the  plant  comprises  a  colony  of 
essentially  independent  but  connected  individuals. 

Certain  definitions  should  be  clearly  understood  before  we 
proceed  with  the  discussion.  A  runner  is  a  shoot  that  trails 
on  the  ground,  taking  root  at  intervals ;  the  strawberry  pro- 
duces true  runners  (Fig.  58) .  Sometimes  the  runner  is  covered 
by  the  accumulating  surface  mold  (Fig.  59) .  A  root  may  some- 
times act  as  a  runner.  A  stolon  is  a  decumbent  or  lopping 
shoot  which,  without  artificial  aid,  takes  root  and  forms  an 
independent  plant.  It  usually  starts  more  or  less  erect  and 
bends  over  to  the  ground  as  it  grows.     The  honeysuckles,  some 

69 


70 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


osiers    (as   Cornus  stolmiifera)    and   many  other  bushes  with 

long  and   slender  branches,   propagate  by  means  of  stolons. 

The  black  raspberry  propagates  by  a  special  kind  of  stolon, 

rooting  only 
at  its  tip.  A 
layer  is  a  shoot 
or  root,  attached 
to  the  parent 
plant,  partially 
or  whollv  cov- 
ered  with  earth, 
with  the  inten- 
tion that  it 
shall  take  root 
and  then  be 
severed  from 
the  parent. 

The  opera- 
tion or  practice 
of  making  a 
layer,    or     the 

state    or    condition    of    being    layered,    with    the    knowledge 

relating  thereto,  is  known  as  layerage. 


Fig.  59.     Runner  of  sedge,  covered  in  the  leaf-mold. 


The  common  or  natural  layers 

Great  numbers  of  plants  that  do  not  propagate  naturally 
by  means  of  layers  are  readily  increased  by  this  means  under 
the  direction  of  the  cultivator.  In  most  cases  it  is  necessary 
onlv  to  lav  down  the  branches,  cover  them  with  earth,  and 
allow  them  to  remain  until  roots  are  well  formed,  when  the 
parts  may  be  severed  from  the  parent.  Layering  is  one  of 
the  simplest  and  commonest  methods  of  propagation,  as  the 
mother-plant  nurses  the  layer-plants  until  they  can  sustain 


PROPAGATION   BY   LAYERS   AND   RUNNERS  71 

themselves.     It  is  a  ready  means  of  multiplying  hard-wooded 
plants  that  do  not  grow  well  from  cuttings. 

All  vines,  and  plants  with  runners  or  long  and  slender  shoots 
that  fall  to  the  ground,  may  be  multiplied  readily  by  layerage. 
Among  fruits,  the  black-cap  raspberry  and  dewberry  are  familiar 
examples.  The  raspberry  canes  of  the  current  year  bend  over 
late  in  summer  and  the  tips  strike  the  earth.  If  the  tip  is 
secured  by  a  slight  covering  of  earth,  or  if  it  finds  lodgment 
in  a  mellow  soil,  roots  are  formed,  and  in  autumn  a  strong  bud 
or  "crown"  or  "eye"  is  devel- 
oped for  next  year's  growth. 
The  parent  cane  is  severed  in  fall 
or  spring,  some  4  or  6  inches  above 
the  ground,  and  an  independent 
plant,  known  as  a  "root-tip,"  as 
shown  in  Fig.  60,  is  obtained.  In  ^  /^^  i^  -^  )^  7 
this  example,  as  in  most  others,  ^  /-.^  X  ^ 


it  is    immaterial    at    what    point 

,  ^     ^  .  ,  ,  Fig.  60.     Raspberry  tip, 

the  parent  stem  is  severed,  except 

that  a  short  piece  of  it  serves  as  a  handle  in  carrying  the 
plant,  and  also  marks  the  position  of  the  plant  when  it  is 
set.  The  black  raspberry  propagates  itself  naturally  by  means 
of  these  layers,  and  it  is  only  necessary,  in  most  cases,  to  bring 
the  earth  into  a  mellow  condition  when  the  tips  begin  to  touch 
the  ground,  in  order  that  they  may  find  anchorage.  This 
layering  by  inserting  the  growing  point  has  the  advantage  of 
producing  very  strong  "crowns"  or  plants  in  autumn  from 
shoots  or  canes  of  the  same  year,  and  it  should  be  more 
generally  practiced.  Even  currants,  gooseberries  and  many 
other  plants  can  be  propagated  in  this  way. 

In  most  kinds  of  layerage,  it  is  necessary  to  bend  down  the 
branches  and  to  cover  them.  The  covering  may  be  continuous, 
as  in  Fig.  61,  or  it  may  be  applied  only  to  the  joints  or  re- 
stricted parts  of  the  shoot,  as  illustrated  in  Fig.  62.     In  either 


72 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


Fig.  61.     Covered  layer  of  viburnum. 


case  the  covering  should 

be  shallow,  not  exceed- 

^y^   ing  2  to  5  inches.     If 

the    shoot    is   stiff,    a 

stone  or  sod  may  be 

placed  on  it  to  hold  it 

down;    or   a   crotched 

stick  may  be  thrust  down  over  it,  as  in  the  "pegging  down" 

operation  of  propagators. 

The  strongest  plants  are  usually  obtained  by  taking  only 
one  plant  from  each  shoot,  and  for  this  purpose  the  earth 
should  be  applied  only  at  one  point,  preferably  over  a  bud  some- 
where near  the  middle  of  the  shoot.  If  the  buds  are  close 
together,  all  but  the  strongest  one  may  be  cut  out.  If  more 
plants  are  desired,  however,  serpentine  layering  may  be  practiced, 
as  shown  at  A  in  Fig.  62  (left  foreground) .     The  shoot  is  bent  in 


Fig.  62.     Layered  shoots. 


an  undulating  way  and  from  every  covered  part  roots  will 
form  and  a  plant  may  be  obtained.     The  completely  covered 


PROPAGATION    BY   LAYERS   AND   RUNNERS 


73 


layer  also  possesses  the  advantage  cf  giving  more  than  one 
plant,  but  the  roots  are  likely  to  form  so  continuously  that 
definite  and  strong  plants  are  rarely  obtained ;  these  rooted 
parts  may  be  severed  and  treated  as  cuttings,  however,  with 


Fig.  63.     Carnation  layer. 

good  results.     The  grape  is  sometimes  propagated  by  serpen- 
tine layering. 

Stiff  and  hard-wooded  plants  do  not  often  "strike"  or  root 
readily,  and  to  facilitate  rooting,  the  branch  is  wounded  at 
the  point  where  it  is  desired  that  roots  shall  form.  This  wound- 
ing serves  to  induce  formation  of  adventitious  buds  at  that 
point,  and  to  check  the  growth  of  the  branch  at  the  tip.  It  is  a 
common  practice  to  cut  the  branch  about  half  in  two,  obliquely 
on  the  lower  side.  This  operation  is  known  as  "tongueing." 
Twisting,  notching,  "ringing"  or  girdling,  and  various  other 
methods  are  employed,  none  of  which,  perhaps,  possesses  any 
peculiar  advantages  in  general  practice.  Some  propagators 
cut  all  the  buds  from  the  covered  part.  In  this  case  the  free 
and  protruding  end  of  the  layer  is  expected  to  form  the  top  of 


74 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


:>* 


Fig.    64. 


the  new  plant.  "Arching,"  or  very  abrupt  bending,  as  in 
serpentine  layering,  serves  the  same  purpose  and  is  the  only 
attention  necessary  in  most  vines.  A  "tongued"  carnation 
layer  is  shown  in  Fig.  63.  The  layered  stem  is  at  S,  and  the 
root  is  seen  to  have  formed  from  the  tongue.  This  method  of 
propagating  carnations  is  common  in  Europe,  but  the  plant  is 
always  grown  from  cuttings  in  America. 

When  large  numbers  of  plants  are  desired,  as  in  commercial 
nurseries,  it  is  often  necessary  to  cut  back  the  parent  plant  to 

A-v-?!&{f^^    the  ground,  or  very  nearly  so,  for 


the  purpose  of  securmg  many 
shoots  fit  for  layering.  A  plant 
cut  back  in  the  spring  will  pro- 
duce shoots  fit  for  layering  the 
following  spring;  or  some  species 
produce  them  in  abundance  the 
same  year  if  layers  of  green  or 
immature  wood  are  desired.  These 
parent  or  stock  plants  are  called  stools  by  nurserymen. 

In  many  species,  layerage  is  performed  to  best  advantage 
by  heaping  earth  over  the  stool  and  around  the  shoots.  This 
is  known  as  mound-  or  stool-layering .  The  shoots  send  out 
T-oots  near  the  base,  and  straight  stocky  plants  are  obtained. 
The  English  gooseberries  are  propagated  almost  exclusively 
in  this  waj'  in  this  country.  Fig.  64  shows  a  row  of  mound- 
layered  gooseberries.  The  shoots  are  allowed  to  remain  in 
layerage  two  years,  in  the  case  of  English  gooseberries,  if  the 
best  plants  are  wanted,  but  in  many  species  the  operation  is 
completed  in  a  single  season.  Quinces  and  Paradise  apple 
stocks  are  extensively  mound-layered.  The  practice  is  most 
useful  in  low  plants  that  produce  short  and  rather  stiff  shoots. 
Sometimes  these  lavers  are  severed  at  the  end  of  the  first  season, 
and  the  plants  are  grown  in  the  nursery  row  for  a  year  before 
they  are  placed  on  the  market. 


Mound-layering   of 
gooseberry. 


PROPAGATION   BY   LAYERS   AND    RTINNERS 


75 


Fig.  65.     Layeriug-pol. 


As  a  rule,  the  best  season  for  mak- 
ing layers  is  in  spring.  Rooting  pro- 
gresses rapidly  in  that  season.  Many 
plants  "bleed"  if  layered  very  early  in 
the  season.  Hardy  shrubs  may  be 
layered  in  autumn,  either  early  or  late, 
and  if  an  incision  is  made,  a  callus  will 
have  formed  by  spring. 

If  rapid  multiplication  is  desired,  the 
soft  and  growing  shoots  may  be  layered  in  summer.     This  oper- 
ation is  variously  known  as  "summer,"  "herbaceous,"  "green" 
and    "soft"    layering.      Comparatively  feeble   plants  usually 
result  from  this  practice,  and  it  is  not  in  common  favor. 

In  glass  houses,  shoots  are  sometimes  layered  in  pots  instead 
of  in  the  earth ;  and  the  same  is  often  practiced  with  straw- 
berries in  the  field,  giving  the  "pot-grown  plants"  of  the 
nurserymen.  The  French  have  "layering-pots,"  with  a  slot 
in  the  side  (Fig.  65)  for  the  insertion  of  the  shoot.  In  one 
style  of  pot,  the  slot  extends  from  the  rim  down  the  entire 
length  of  the  side  and  half-way  across  the  bottom  (Fig.  66). 

From  what  has  now  been  said  of  layerage,  the  reader  will 
perceive  that  it  may  be  employed  either  for  the  outright  pro- 
duction of  new  plants,  or  as  a  means  of  starting 
or  "striking"  plants.     In  the  latter  case,  the 
layer  plants,  after  having  been  separated  from 
the  parent,  are  set  in  nursery  rows  and  there 
grown     for     one    season;    and    in    this    way 
stronger  and  more  shapely  plants  may  be  ob- 
FiG.  66.  Layer-  tained.      As  a  general   statement,   it   may  be 
ing-pot,    another  gj^j^]  ^j^^^  bush-like  or  vine-Hke  plants  that  do 

torm. 

not  strike  readily  from  cuttings,  nor  produce 
seeds  freely,  or  of  which  the  seeds  are  very  slow  to  germinate, 
are  to  be  multiplied  by  layerage. 


76 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


The  so-called  air-lay er^'i 

Pot-layering,  circimiposition,  air-layering  and  Chinese  layer- 
ing are  terms  applied  to  the  rooting  of  rigid  stems  by  means 
of  surrounding  them,  while  in  their  natural  position,  with 
earth  or  moss,  or  similar  material.  The  stem  is  wounded  — 
commonly  girdled  and  preferably  just  below  a  node  —  and  a 
divided  pot  or  box  is  placed  about  it  and  filled  with  earth 
(Fig.  67).  The  roots  start  from  above  the  girdle,  and  when 
they  have  filled  the  pot  the  stem  is  severed,  headed  back  and 
planted.  Pot-layering  is  practiced  mostly  in  greenhouses, 
where  it  is  possible  to  keep  the  earth  uniformly  moist.  But 
even  there  it  is  advisable  to 
wrap  the  pot  in  moss  to  check 
evaporation.  Some  plants,  as 
Ficiw  elastica  and  dracena,  can 
be  readily  rooted  by  WTapping 
them  with  moss  alone,  if  the 
atmosphere  is  sufficiently  close; 


U-'^?^ 


Fig,  67.     Pot-layerage. 


Fig.  68.     A  "mossed"  dracena  plant 


PROPAGATION   BY   LAYERS   AND  RUNNERS 


77 


Fig.     70. 


cone. 


Fig.  69.  A 
method  of  rooting 
choice    forms    of 


the  operation  is  then  called  "mossing"  (Fig. 
68).  A  paper  cone  may  be  used  in  place  of 
a  pot  when  the  atmosphere  is  not  too  humid, 
as  in  carnation  houses  (Fig.  69). 

Pot-layering  is  employed  not  only  for  the  pur- 
pose of  multiplying  plants,  but  to  lower  the 
heads  of  "leggy"  or  scraggly  specimens.     The 

pot  is  inserted  at  the  re- 
quired point  on  the  main 
stem,  and  after  roots  have 
formed  abundantly  the  top 
may  be  cut  off  and  potted 
independently,  the  old  stump 
Layering-  being  discarded.  The  French 
and  others  have  various 
handy  devices  for  facilitating  pot-layering.  Fig. 
66  shows  a  layering-pot,  provided  with  a  niche  in  carnation  or  other 

1-1  .  ,  ^        n  11-1     plants. 

the  side  to  receive  the  stem,  and  a  nange  behind 
for  securing  it  to  a  support.     The  pot  shown  in  Fig.  65  is  a 
similar  device.     Fig.  70  represents  a  layering-cone.     It  is  made 
of  zinc  or  other  metal,  usually  4  or  5  inches  high,  and  is  com- 
posed of  two  semi-conical  wings,  hinged  on 
the  back  and  secured  in  front,  when  the  in- 
strument is  closed,  by  means  of  a  hinge-pin. 
A  cord  is  inserted  in  one  side,  with  which  to 
hang  it  on  a  support.     A  cup  or  pot  with  a 
removable  side  is  also  used.     This  is  shown 

open  in  Fig.  71  and  closed 
in  Fig.  72.  An  ingenious 
compound  layering-pot  is  shown  in  Fig. 
73.  The  main  stem  or  trunk  of  the  plant 
is  carried  through  the  large  opening,  and  the 
branches  are  taken  through  the  smaller  pots 
cup.  at   the  side.     Kier's  layering-boxes  or  racks 


Fig.  71.     Layering- 
cup. 


78 


THE   NURSERY- MAN  UAL 


Fig.  73. 


Compound  layer- 
ing-pot. 


are    seen    in    Figs.    74    and    75.      The 
trays  are  filled  with  earth  or  moss,  and 
the   branches   are   laid   in   through  the 
chinks  in  the  border  and  are  treated  in 
the    same    wav    as    ordinary    outdoor 
layers.      Although  such  racks  may  not 
be  used  by  American  gardeners,  they 
are  nevertheless   suggestive ;   they  pro- 
vide a  neat  and  con- 
\'enient    means    of    increasing    greenhouse 
plants  which  do  not  readily  strike  from  cut- 
tings. 

When  layers  do  not  give  strong  plants, 
they  may  be  divided  into  portions,  each 
bearing  a  bit  of  root,  and  treated  as  ordinary 
cuttings.  This  is  an  important  operation 
in  the  case  of  rare  varieties  which  are  mul- 
tiplied by  means  of  soft  or  green  layers,  as  Fig.  74.  Kier's  layer- 
some  of  the  large-flowered  clematises  and  mg-rac 
new  varieties  of  grapes.     The  small  weak  plants  are  handled 

in  a  cool  greenhouse  or  under  frames, 
usually  in  pots,  and  they  soon  make 
strong  specimens. 

The  term  Chinese  layering  applied 
to  this  class  of  work  suggests  interest- 
ing oriental  practices.  The  Chinese 
make  what  is  called  a  "gootee," 
which  is  a  ball  of  clay  plastered 
around  the  ring  or  girdle  and  covered 
with  moss  or  fiber  to  hold  it  to- 
gether. The  ball  is  then  kept  moist 
bv   a   stream    of   water    that   slowly 


Fig.  75.    Kier "6  circular  layer- 
ing-rack. 


seeps   down   a   soft  cord.      A  recep- 
tacle of  water  is  secured   above   the 


PROPAGATION    BY   LAYERS    AND    RUNNERS  79 

gootee ;  from  its  bottom  the  cord  is  taken  out  and  wound 
around  the  ball.  By  this  practice,  air-layering  may  be  suc- 
cessful even  in  the  open.  The  roots  penetrate  the  earthen 
ball,  and  the  plant  is  easily  transplanted  to  permanent 
quarters. 

The  amateur  plant  grower,  who  has  the  advantage  of  a 
greenliouse,  may  find  much  entertainment  in  practicing  the 
divers  kinds  of  air-layering,  varying  the  mode  and  the  operation 
as  his  ingenuity  may  suggest. 


CHAPTER  V 

PROPAGATION  BY  MEANS  OF  CUTTINGS 

The  regular  growth-shoots  of  plants  may  grow  when  severed 
and  placed  in  earth ;  as  they  are  cut  from  the  parent,  so  are 
such  parts  known  as  cuttings.  Tubers  and  dormant  shoots 
and  leaves,  and  even  parts  of  fruits  as  in  certain  cacti,  may 
also  yield  materials  for  cuttings,  propagating  the  plant.  The 
practice  or  process  of  multiplying  plants  by  cuttings,  with 
all  the  craft  and  science  pertaining  thereto,  is  denominated 
cuttage.  To  this  entertaining  department  we  now  address 
ourselves. 

1.    GENERAL  REQUIREMENTS   OF   CUTTINGS 

Cuttings  of  growing  parts  demand  a  moist  and  uniform  at- 
mosphere, a  porous  soil,  and  sometimes  bottom  heat.  The 
requirements  vary  greatly  with  the  different  kinds  of  plants, 
yet  it  is  possible  to  make  general  statements  that  will  be  useful 
in  specific  application. 

Constructions  for  regulating  moisture  and  heat 

To  secure  a  uniform  and  moist  atmosphere,  various  propagat- 
ing-frames  are  in  common  use.  These  frames  and  boxes  or 
bell-glasses  may  be  used  also  for  seed  propagation,  but  as  they 
find  their  greatest  application  in  cuttage,  they  are  described 
mostly  in  this  chapter. 

Whatever  its  construction,  the  frame  should  be  sufficiently 
tight  to  confine  the  air  closely ;  it  should  admit  light,  and  allow 

80 


Plate  III.     Propagation  of  hydrangeas.  —  House  in  July;  the  stock  was 

marketed  the  following  autumn. 


PROPAGATION   BY   MEANS   OF   CUTTINGS 


81 


of  ventilation.  The  simplest 
form  of  propagating-frame  is 
a  pot  or  box  covered  with  a 
pane  of  glass  (Fig.  4) .  To  ad- 
mit of  ventilation,  the  glass  is 
tilted  at  intervals,  or  two 
panes  may  be  used  and  a  space 
allowed    to    remain     between 

them. 


Fig.  76.     Hand-glass. 


Fig.    77.      Fruit- 


A  common  bell-glass  or  bell-jar  makes  one 
of  the  best  and  handiest  propagating-frames, 
because  it  admits  light  on  all  sides  and  is 
convenient  to  handle  (Fig.  5).  It  is  partic- 
ularly serviceable  in  the 
propagation  of  tropical  or 
"stove"  plants;  and  it  is 
in  general  use  for  all  diffi- 
jar  used  as  a  bell-  cult  and  rare  subjects  not 
^^^^^  propagated  in   large  num- 

bers. A  hand-glass  or  hand-light  (Fig.  76) 
answers  the  same  purpose  and  accommo- 
dates a  larger  number  of  plants.  For  certain 
limited  purposes,  a  fruit-jar  may  be  used 
as  a  bell-glass.  Fig.  77  shows  such  use 
(adapted    from    Mulford,    Farmers'    Bull.      ^ig    7s      Muslin 

750).     A  sub-    substitute     for     bell- 

stitute  for  a  ^^^' 
bell-glass  may  be  made  by 
stretching  thin  muslin  over  a 
wooden  or  wire  frame,  as  in 
Fig.  78.  This  device  may  be 
used  also  for  protecting  plants 
newly  transplanted. 

Fig.  79.     Small  propagating-box.  A  USeful  propagating-box   for 


a 


82 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


the  window  garden  or  amateur  conservatory  is  shown  in  Fig. 
79.     A  box  2  or  3  inches  high  is  obtained,  and  inside  this  a 

zinc  or  galvanized  iron  tray  is  set, 
leaving  sufficient  space  between  it  and 
the  box  to  admit  a  pane  of  glass  on 
every  side.  These  panes  form  the  four 
sides  of  the  box,  and  one  or  two  panes 
are  laid  across  the  top.  The  metal 
trav  holds  the  soil  and  allows  no  water 
to  drip  on  the  floor. 
One  of  the  best  boxes  for  general  purposes  is  made  in  the  form 
of  a  simple  board  rectangle  without  top  or  bottom,  and  15  or 
18  inches  high,  the  top  being  covered  with  two  sashes  one  of 
which  raises  on  a  hinge  (Fig.  80).  Four  by  three  feet  is  a 
convenient  size.     Consult  also  Fig.  85. 

An  ordinary  light  hotbed  frame  is  sometimes  constructed 
on  the  bench  of  a  greenhouse  and  covered  with  common  hot- 
bed sash.  Propagating-houses  are  sometimes  built  with 
permanent  propagating-frames  of    this  character  throughout 


Fig.  80.     Propagating-box. 


Fig.  81.     Permanent  propagating-frames  in  a  greenhouse. 


their  length,  as  shown  in  Fig.  81.     Such  permanent  frames 
are  mostly  used  for  conifers,  either  from  cuttings  or   grafts 


PROPAGATION    BY    MEANS   OF   CUTTINGS 


83 


(usually  the  latter)  and 
also  for  grafts  of  rhodo- 
dendrons. (See  Chapter 
VI.) 

In  all  the  above  appli- 
ances, heat  is  obtained 
from  the  sun  or  from  the 
bench-pipes  or  flues  of  a 
greenhouse.  There  are 
various  contrivances  in 
which  the  heat  is  applied 
locally,  for  the  purpose 
of    securing    greater    or 

more  uniform  warmtli.  One  of  the  simplest  and  best  of  these 
is  the  propagating-oven  shown  in  Fig.  82.  It  is  a  glass-covered 
box  about  2  feet  deep,  with  a  tray  of  water  beneath  the  earth, 
and  is  heated  with  a  lamp.  Similar  but  somewhat  complicated 
apparatus  has  been  used  in  times  past,  but  with  the  more  de^ 


Fig.  82.     Simple  propagating-oven. 


Fig.  83.     Barnard's  propagating-tank. 

pendable  heat  of  steam  or  hot-water  pipes,  the  old  forms  are 
likely  to  pass  out  and  not  need  description  here.     Persons  who 


84 


THE    NURSERY-MANUAL 


are  curious  about  such  devices  may  consult  the  older  Euro- 
pean works,  and  he  will  find  brief  descriptions  in  the  previous 

editions  of  the  ''Nurs- 


ery-Book." 

Barnard's  propagat- 
ing-tank,  Fig.  83,  is  a 
practicable  device  for 
attachment  to  a  com- 
mon stove.  A  similar 
apparatus  may  be  con- 
nected to  the  pipes 
of  a  greenhouse.  The 
tank  consists  of  a  long 
wooden  box  of  matched 


Fig.  84. 


Zinc  propagacing-tank.. 

boards  and  put  together  with  paint  between  the  joints  to 
make  it  water-tight.  The  box  should  be  about  3  feet  wide 
and  10  inches  deep,  and  10  to  30  feet  long,  according  to  the 
space  required.  In  the  middle  of  the  box  is  a  partition,  ex- 
tending nearly  the  whole  length,  and  on  the  inside,  on  each 
side,  is  a  ledge  or  piece  of  molding  to  support  slate  slabs  to 
be  laid  over  the  entire  surface  of  the  box.  The  slates  are  sup- 
ported by  the  ledges  and  by  the  central  partition,  and  should 
be  fastened  down  with  cement  to  prevent  the  propagating- 
sand  from  falling  into  the  tank.  One  slate  is  left  out  near  the 
end,  next  the  fire,  to  enable  the  operator  to  see  the  water  and  to 
keep  it  at  the  right  level.  Sand  is  spread  on  the  slates,  in 
which  the  cuttings  may  be  struck,  the  sand  nearly  filling  the 
box.  At  one  end  of  the  box  is  placed  a  common  cylinder  stove, 
with  smoke-pipe  to  the  chimney.  Inside  the  stove  is  an  iron 
pipe,  bent  in  a  spiral.  This  coil,  which  is  directly  in  the  fire, 
is  connected  by  pipes  with  the  tank,  one  pipe  leading  to  one 
side  of  the  partition  and  the  other  to  the  opposite  side,  as 
shown  in  the  drawing.  If  water  is  placed  in  the  tank,  it  will 
fill  the  pipes  and  form  a  continuous  circulating  systeu'  throu;jl 


PROPAGATION   Bl    MEANS   OF   CUTTINGS 


85 


the  pipes  and  up  one  side  of  the  box  past  the  end  of  the  par- 
tition, and  down  the  other  side.  A  fire  in  the  stove  causes  the 
water  to  circulate  through  the  tank  and  impart  to  the  bed  a 
genial  warmth. 

Various  tanks  are  designed  to  rest  on  the  pipes  in  a  green- 
house. The  principle  of  their  construction  is  essentially  the 
same  as  of  those  already  described  —  bottom  heat,  a  tray  of 
water,  and  a  bed  of  soil.  Earthenware  tanks  are  commonly 
employed,    but   an 


English  device,  Fig. 
84,  is  made  of  zinc. 
It  is  about  7  inches 
deep,  and  holds  an 
inch  or  two  of  water 
in  the  bottom.  A 
tray  5  inches  deep 
sets  into  the  tank. 
The  water  is  sup- 
plied through  a  fun- 
nel at  the  base. 

A  useful  propa- 
gating-box  inside 
a  greenhouse  is 
seen  in  Fig.  85. 
It  is  placed  where 
good  bottom  heat 
is  provided,  al- 
though no  special 
installation  is  made 
for  the  purpose. 
In     such     a     box 


Fig.  85.     Greenhouse  propagating-box. 


draughts  may  be  avoided,  a  uniformly  moist  air  may  be 
maintained,  and  the  heat  may  be  regulated.  It  is  specially 
useful  for  tropical  things,  as  nepenthes  and  many  others. 


86 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


■-^r^^^'sg&iS.'.--' 


In  commercial  establishments,  cuttings  are  grown  exten- 
sively in  summer.  The  cuttings  are  made  of  growing  or  matur- 
ing shoots  taken  from 
the  natural  outdoor 
growth,  as  cuttings 
of  similar  maturity 
may  be  taken  from 
greenhouse  stuff  in 
winter  and  spring. 
Cover  and  protection 
must  be  provided 
for  these  summer 
cuttings.  Low  glass- 
houses,  of  the  forc- 

FiG.   86.     Propagating  houses,   useful   for  summer    ing-pit  tvpe   are  mUch 
work  with  cuttings.  i         'i     •  n 

used,  bemg  well 
shaded.  Such  houses  are  indicated  in  Fig.  86.  They  may  be 
utilized  for  seed-propagation  or  other  work,  if  needed.  Frames 
are  useful,  as  in  Fig.  87 ;  and  these  are  also  usable  in  spring 
for  receiving  surplus 
stock  from  the 
greenhouse.  They 
are  commonly  pro- 
vided witii  slat- 
covers,  as  shown,  to 
go  over  the  glass; 
or  in  summer  the 
covers  alone  mav  be 
used.  Usuallv  the 
frames  are  ranged 
together  in  a  yard, 
and  high  shading  is  provided  by  means  of  muslin  as  illus- 
trated in  Fig.  9  and  again  in  Fig.  88. 


Fig.  87.     Propagating-frame. 


PROPAGATION    BY    MEANS    OF    CUTTINGS 


87 


Bottom  heat 

Soil  somewhat  warmer  than  the  air  is  essential  to  the  best 
success  with  cuttings.  Bottom  or  root  growth  should  precede 
top  growth,  and  this  is  aided  by  bottom  heat.  This  heat  may 
be  two  or  three  degrees,  or  three  or  four  times  that  much, 
higher  than  the  temperature  of  the  atmosphere. 

In  outdoor  work,  this  heat  is  supplied  by  the  natural  warmth 
of  the  soil  in  spring  and  summer,  and  it  is  often  intensified  by 


Fig.  88.     Nurseryman's  frames  in  a  yard,  protected  by  muslin  canopies. 


burying  hard-wooded  cuttings  bottom  end  up  for  a  time  before 
planting  them,  although  there  may  be  other  reasons  and  benefits 
in  the  inversion  of  cuttings.  This  inverting  of  cuttings  is 
often  practiced  with  grapes,  particularly  with  the  Delaware 
and  others  that  root  with  some  difficulty.  The  cuttings  are 
tied  in  bundles  and  buried  in  a  sandy  place,  witli  the  tops  down, 
the  butts  being  covered  2  or  .*>  inches  with  sand.  They 
may  be  put  in  this  position  in  autumn  and  allowed  to  remain 
until  the  ground  begins  to  freeze  hard,  or  they  may  be  buried 
in  spring  and  allowed  to  remain  until  May  or  June  and  then 


88  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

be  regularly  planted.  In  outdoor  practice,  the  cuttings  which 
are  of  medium  length,  from  6  to  8  inches,  derive  more  bottom 
heat  than  the  very  long  ones,  such  as  were  formerly  used  for 

the  propagation  of  the  grape. 

In  indoor  work,  bottom  heat  is  obtained 
by  means  of  fermenting  manure,  or,  prefer- 
ably, by  greenhouse  pipes.  Cutting-benches 
should  have  abundant  piping  beneath,  and 
in  the  case  of  many  tropical  and  subtropical 
species  the  bottom  heat  may  be  intensified 
Fig.  89.  Forsyth's  by  inclosing  the  benches  below,  so  that  no 
cutting-pot.  Yieat  can   escape   into   the    walks.      Doors 

may  be  placed  in  the  partition  alongside  the  walk,  to  serve  as 
ventilators  if  the  heat  should  become  too  intense. 

Placing  and  protecting  the  cuttings 

Cuttings  usually  "strike"  better  when  they  touch  the  side 
of  the  pot  than  when  they  are  wholly  surrounded  by  earth. 
This  is  probably  because  the  earthenware  insures  greater 
uniformity  in  drainage  than  the  earth,  and  supplies  air  and  a 
mild  bottom  heat ;  and  it  is  possible  that  the  deflection  of  the 
plant-food  towards  the  side  of  the  pot,  because  of  evaporation 
therefrom,  induces  better  growth  at  that  point. 

Various  devices  are  employed  for  the  purpose  of  securing 
these  advantages  to  the  best  effect.  These  are  usually  double 
pots,  in  one  of  which  water  is  placed.  A  good  method  is  that 
represented  in  Fig.  89,  which  shows  a  pot,  b,  plugged  with 
plaster  of  Paris  at  the  bottom,  placed  inside  a  larger  one.  The 
earth  is  placed  between  the  two,  drainage  material  occupying 
the  bottom,  a,  and  fine  soil  the  top,  c.  Water  stands  in  the 
inner  pot  as  high  as  the  dotted  line,  and  feeds  uniformly  into 
the  surrounding  soil.  The  positions  of  the  water  and  soil  are 
frequently  reversed,  but  in  that  case  there  is  less  space  avail- 


PROPAGATION   BY   MEANS    OF    CUTTINGS 


89 


able  for  cuttings.     A  double  pot,  with  moisture  supplied  in  a 

surrounding  cushion  of  sphagnum   moss,   is   seen  in   Fig.   3 

Neumann's    cutting-pot    is    shown    in    Fig. 

90.     This  contains  an  inverted  pot  in  the 

center,  a,  designed  to  supply  drainage  and 

to  admit  heat  into  the  center  of  the  mass  of 

soil. 

A   good    method    of    striking   difficult    sub-    Fig.  90.     Neumann's 

jects  is  as  follows  :  Fill  a  saucer  with  moss ;  cuttmg-pot. 

on  this  place  an  inverted  flower-pot ;  insert  the  cutting  through 
the  hole  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot,  so  that  it  stands  in  the 
moss  and  almost  touches  the  saucer ;  keep  the  moss  moist. 

Some  kind  of  protection,  commonly  combined  with  bottom 
heat,  is  given  cuttings  of  the  soft  and  growing  parts.     In  indoor 


Fig.  91.     Cutting-bench  shaded  with  lath. 

work,  any  of  the  devices  named  above  may  be  employed,  but 
a  box  like  that  shown  in  Fig.  80  is  one  of  the  most  useful  for 


90 


THE    NURSERY-MANUAL 


Fig.  92.     Dracena  cuttings  well  placed. 

cuttings  is  known  as  a  "cutting- 
bench."  A  good  cutting-bench  should 
be  near  the  glass,  and  either  exposed 
to  the  north  or  else  capable  of  being 
well  shaded.  If  the  cuttings  become 
too  dry  or  too  hot,  they  will  wilt 
or  "flag."  A  good  bench,  facing 
south  and  shaded  over  the  glass  with 
a  lath  screen,  is  illustrated  in  Fig. 
91.  A  cutting-bench  of  sand,  now 
bearing  cuttings  of  dracena,  is  seen  in 
Fig.  92. 

In  outdoor  work,  soft  cuttings  are 
usually  placed  in  an  ordinary   cold- 


common  operations 
Or  the  greenhouse 
itself  may  afford 
sufficient  protection, 
especially  if  the  cut- 
tings  are  shaded 
when  first  set,  to 
check  evaporation 
from  the  plant  and 
soil,  and  to  prevent 
too  great  heat.  This 
shading  is  usually 
supplied  by  white- 
washing the  glass,  or 
a  newspaper  may  be 
laid  over  the  cutting- 
bed  for  a  few  days. 

A  greenhouse  table 
or  bench  prepared 
for    the    growing   of 


Fig.  93.  Pot  of  hardwood 
cuttings  of  Myrica  Gale, 
growth   beainning. 


PROPAGATION   BY    MEANS   OF   CUTTINGS 


91 


Fig.  94. 


Box  of  pachysandra  cut- 
tings. 


frame,    and    these    frames    are 

shaded.     They  may   be  placed 

under  trees  or  on  the  shady  side 

of  a  building,   or  if   they    are 

numerous,     as    in    commercial 

establishments,   a   cloth   screen 

should  be  provided,  as  already 

explained  (page  86) . 

In  regular  propagating  prac- 
tice, cuttings  are   often  handled  in  pots  and  flats  or  boxes. 

Figs.  93  to  96  show  the  method ;  note  that  the  cuttings  are 

thickly  set;    from   these    boxes    the    rooted   cuttings   will   be 

transplanted  to  pots,  other  flats, 
or  to  the  nursery  row.  A  *'  pit " 
for  storing  boxes  and  pots  of 
hardwood  cuttings  and  seeds  is 
shown  in  Fig.  97.  It  is  a  lean- 
to  with  glass  roof,  facing  north 
or  else  capable  of  shading.     The 

temperature  is  kept  low,  usuallv 
Box  of  juniper  cuttings,      jj^^j^  ^^^^,^  freezing  in  winter 

for  hardy  things  of  which  cuttings  are  made  in  autumn.  The 
walls  are  preferably  of  mason  work,  to  keep  the  temperature 
more  uniform.  Such  a  house  or  pit  affords  ideal  storage  and 
maintenance  conditions  for  cool  stuff  over  winter. 


Fig.  95. 


Soil  for  cuttings 

The  soil  or  earth  in  which 
cuttings  are  grown  should  be 
well  drained.  It  should  not  be 
so  compact  as  to  hold  a  great 
quantity  of  water,  nor  should  it 
be  so  loose  as  to  dry  out  very 


^^ 


Fig.   yti       Box  of  yew   (taxus)    cut- 
tings. 


92 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


quickly.  It  should  not  "bake"  or  form  a  crust  on  its  sur- 
face. As  a  rule,  especially  for  cuttings  made  of  growing 
parts,  the  soil  should  not  contain  fresh  vegetable  matter,  as 
such  material  holds  too  much  water  and  is  often  apparently 
injurious  to  the  cutting,  and  it  is  likely  to  breed  the  fungi  of 
damping-off. 


Fig.  97.     Pit  or  storage  house  for  hardy  cuttings  and  seed  boxes. 


A  coarse,  sharp,  clean  sand  is  the  best  material  for  indoor 
use.  Very  fine  sand  packs  too  hard,  and  should  rarely  be  em- 
ployed. Some  propagators  prefer  to  use  fine  gravel,  com- 
posed of  particles  an  eighth  to  a  fourth  of  an  inch  in  diameter, 
and  from  which  all  fine  material  has  been  washed.  This 
answers  well  for  green  cuttings;  but  a  propagating-frame 
should  be  used  to  check  evaporation,  and  attention  be  given 
to  w^atering,  because  drainage  is  perfect  and  the  material  quickly 


PROPAGATION   BY   MEANS   OF   CUTTINGS  93 

permeable.  Damping-ofF  is  less  liable  to  occur  in  such  ma- 
terial than  in  denser  soils.  The  same  advantages  are  to  some 
extent  present  in  sphagnum  moss  and  coconut  fiber,  both  of 
which  are  sometimes  used  in  place  of  earth.  The  " silver  sand" 
used  by  florists  is  a  very  clean  and  white  sand,  which  derives 
its  particular  advantages  from  the  almost  entire  absence  of 
vegetable  matter;  but  it  is  not  now  considered  so  essential 
to  successful  propagation  as  it  was  formerly,  and  fully  as  good 
material  may  often  be  found  in  a  common  sand-bank. 

Cuttings  that  strike  strongly  and  vigorously  may  be  placed 
in  a  soil  made  of  light  garden  loam  with  twice  its  bulk  of  sand 
added  to  it.  All  soils  used  for  indoor  work  should  be  sifted 
or  screened  before  using,  to  bring  them  to  a  uniform  texture. 

Hardwood  dormant  cuttings  are  commonly  planted  outdoors 
in  mellow  and  light  garden  loam,  well  trenched.  Only  fine 
and  well-rotted  manure  should  be  applied  to  the  cutting-bed, 
and  it  should  be  well  mixed  with  the  earth.  In  most  cases, 
a  well-drained  soil  gives  best  results,  but  some  cuttings  root 
and  grow  well  in  wet  soils,  or  even  in  standing  w^ater,  as  pop- 
lars, willows,  some  of  the  dogwoods,  the  plane-tree  and  others. 
In  fact,  certain  cuttings  may  be  rooted  in  glasses  of  water,  as 
of  the  oleander. 

The  striking  of  cuttings 

When  cuttings  emit  roots  and  begin  to  grow,  the  gardener 
says  that  they  "strike"  or  are  "struck."  The  striking  of 
cuttings  is  the  successful  rooting  of  them.  The  formation 
of  roots  is  influenced  by  the  way  in  which  the  cutting  is  made, 
the  earth  or  other  medium  in  which  it  is  set,  the  temperature 
and  moisture  conditions,  and  other  factors. 

As  a  rule,  roots  arise  most  readily  from  a  joint,  and  it  is  a 
common  practice,  therefore,  to  cut  the  base  of  the  cutting  just 
below  a  bud,  as  shown  in  the  grape  cutting,  Fig.  98.  Some- 
times the  cutting  is  severed  at  its  point  of  attachment  to  the 


94 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


parent  branch,  and  a  small  portion,  or  "heel,"  of  that  branch 
is  allowed  to  remain  on  the  cutting.     This  heel  may  be  nothing 

more  than  the  curved  and  hardened  base  of  the  cutting 

at  its  point  of  attachment,  as  in  the  cornus  cutting, 

Fig.  99.     Sometimes  an  entire  section  of  the  parent 

branch     is     removed 

with  the  cutting,  as  in 

the  "mallet"  cuttings 

of    grapes.    Fig.    100. 

Of   course,    compara- 
tively   few     heel     or 

mallet  cuttings  can  be 

taken    from    a   plant, 

as    only   one    cutting 

is    obtained    from    a 

shoot,   and   it    is   ad- 
visable,   therefore,   to 

"cut  to  buds"  rather 

than  to  "  cut  to  heels"; 

yet   many  plants  de- 
mand a  heel  if  the  most 

satisfactory  results  are 

to  be  obtained.     The 

requirements    of    the 

different     species     in 

this    regard    can    be 

learned    onh'    b^'   ex- 

but  it  may  be  said 
that  in  general  the  hardest  or 
closest  wooded  plants  require  a 
heel  or  a  joint  at  the  base.  Wil- 
lows,  currants,   basswoods   and   ^^^-^^-    Heel  cutting  of  cornus  (x  §) . 

others   with   like   soft  wood,  emit  roots  readily  between  the 
buds,  yet  even  in  these  cases  propagators  generally  cut  to  buds. 


Ficx.  98. 
Hardwood 
grape  cut- 
ting. 

perience ; 


PROPAGATION   BY   MEANS   OF   CUTTINGS 


95 


Wounds  on  plants  begin  to  heal  by  the  formation  of  loose 
cellular  matter  which  gives  rise  to  a  mass  of  tissue  known  as  a 
callus.  This  tissue  eventually  covers  the  entire  wound,  if 
complete  healing  results.  Usually,  the  first  apparent  change 
in  a  cutting  is  the  formation  of  a  callus  on  the  lower 
end,  and  it  is  commonly  supposed  that  this  process 
must  be  well  progressed  before  roots  can  form.  Yet 
roots  do  not  arise  from  the  callus  itself,  but  from 
the  internal  tissue,  and  in  many  plants  they  appear 
to  bear  no  relation  in  position  to  the  callus.  In 
willows,  for  example,  roots  arise  from  the  bark  at 
some  distance  from  the  callus.  Yet,  as  a  matter  of 
practice,  best  results  are  obtained  from  callused 
cuttings,  particularly  if  the  cuttings  are  made  from 
mature  wood,  but  this  is  probably  due  to  the  fact 
that  considerable  time  is  required  for  the  formation 
of  the  adventitious  buds  which  give  rise  to  the 
roots,  not  to  any  real  connection  between  the  cal- 
lusing  and  rooting  processes. 

Hardwood  dormant  cuttings  give  better  results 
when  kept  inactive  for  some  time  after  they  are 
cut.  They  are  usually  made  in  autumn,  and  stored 
over  winter  in  sand,  sawdust  or  moss  in  a  cool 
cellar,  or  buried  in  a  sandy  and  well-drained  place. 
This,  at  least,  is  the  practice  with  hardwood  cut- 
tings of  deciduous  plants,  as  currants,  gooseberries, 
grapes  and  many  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs. 
Hardwood  evergreen  cuttings,  when  taken  in  au- 
tumn, are  usually  set  at  once,  as  their  foliage  will 
not  allow  them  to  be  buried  with  safety;  but  in  this  case, 
the  cuttings  are  kept  *' quiet"  or  dormant  for  a  time,  to 
allow  callusing  to  progress,  as  in  a  pit  (Fig.  97).  If  cuttings 
are  buried  so  deep  that  they  cannot  sprout,  callusing  may  be 
hastened  by  placing  them  in  a  mild  temperature.     Single-eye 


Fig.  100. 
Mallet  cut- 
ting of  grape 
(X  k). 


96  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

grape  cuttings  are  sometimes  packed  between  layers  of  sand 
in  a  barrel,  and  the  barrel  is  set  under  a  forcing-house  bench 
where  the  temperature  is  about  50°.  Eight  or  ten  inches  of 
sand  is  usually  placed  over  the  top  layer.  In  this  w£y,  cut- 
tings taken  in  winter  or  early  spring  may  be  callused  before 
planting  time. 

It  is  a  singular  fact  that  the  lower  end  of  the  cutting,  as  it 
stood  on  the  parent  plant,  produces  roots,  and  the  upper  end 
produces  leaves  and  shoots,  even  if  the  cutting  is  inverted. 
And  if  the  cutting  is  divided  into  several  parts,  each  part  will 
still  exhibit  this  differentiation  of  function.  This  is  true  even 
of  root-cuttings,  and  of  other  cuttings  that  bear  no  buds.  The 
reasons  for  this  localization  of  function  are  not  clearly  under- 
stood, although  the  phenomenon  has  often  been  the  subject 
of  study.  On  this  fact  probably  depends  the  hastening  of 
the  rooting  process  in  inverted  cuttings  by  the  direct  applica- 
tion of  heat  to  the  bottoms  (page  87),  and  it  likewise  indicates 
that  care  must  be  taken  to  plant  cuttings  in  approximately 
their  natural  direction  if  straight  and  handsome  plants 
are  desired.  This  remark  applies  particularly  to  horse- 
radish "sets,"  for  if  these  are  placed  wrong  end  up  (even 
though  they  are  root-cuttings),  the  resulting  root  will  be  very 
crooked. 

The  particular  method  of  making  the  cutting,  and  the  treat- 
ment to  which  it  should  be  subjected,  to  cause  it  to  strike 
readily,  must  be  determined  for  each  species  or  genus.  Some 
plants,  as  many  maples,  can  be  propagated  from  wood  two  or 
three  years  old,  but  in  most  cases  the  wood  of  the  previous  or 
present  season's  growth  is  required.  Nearly  all  soft  and  loose- 
wooded  plants  grow  readily  from  hardwood  cuttings,  while 
those  with  dense  wood  are  generally  multiplied  more  easily 
from  soft  or  growing  wood.  Some  plants,  as  oaks  and  nut- 
trees,  are  propagated  from  cuttings  of  any  description  only 
with  difficulty,  although  the  hickories  grow  rather  freely  from 


PROPAGATION   BY    MEANS   OF   CUTTINGS  97 

soft  tip-cuttings  of  roots.     It  is  probable,  however,  that  all 
plants  can  be  multiplied  by  cuttings  if  properly  treated. 

It  often  happens  that  one  or  two  species  of  a  closely  defined 
genus  will  propagate  readily  from  cuttings  while  the  other 
species  will  not,  so  that  the  propagator  comes  to  learn  by  ex- 
perience that  different  treatment  is  profitable  for  very  closely 
related  plants.  For  example,  most  of  the  viburnums  are  prop- 
agated from  layers  in  commercial  establishments,  but  ]\ 
tomentosuiii  (often  known  as  W  plicatum)  is  grown  extensively 
from  cuttings. 

2.    THE  DIVERS   KINDS   OF  CUTTINGS 

Cuttings  are  made  from  all  parts  of  the  plant.  In  its  lowest 
terms,  cuttage  is  a  division  of  the  plant  itself  into  two  or  more 
nearly  equal  parts,  as  in  the  division  of  crowns  of  rhubarb, 
dicentra  and  most  other  plants  that  tend  to  form  broad  masses 
or  stools.  This  species  of  cuttage  is  at  times  indistinguishable 
from  separation,  as  in  the  dividing  of  lily  bulbs  (page  57),  and 
at  other  times  it  is  essentially  the  same  as  layerage,  as  in  the 
dividing  of  stools  that  have  arisen  from  suckers  and  layers. 
This  breaking  or  cutting  up  of  the  plants  into  two  or  more 
large  parts  that  are  already  rooted  is  technically  known  as 
division,  and  is  discussed  in  Chapter  III.  It  is  only  necessary, 
in  dividing  plants,  to  see  that  one  or  more  buds  or  shoots  remain 
on  the  portions,  and  these  portions  are  then  treated  in  the  same 
way  as  independent  mature  plants,  or  sometimes,  when  the 
divisions  are  small  and  weak,  they  may  be  handled  for  a  time 
in  a  frame  or  forcing-house  as  ordinary  cuttings. 

Cuttings  proper  may  be  divided  into  four  general  classes, 
with  respect  to  the  part  of  the  plant  from  which  they  are  made  : 
1,  of  tubers;  2,  of  roots  and  rootstocks;  3,  of  stems;  4,  of 
leaves.  All  these  forms  of  cuttings  reproduce  the  given  variety 
with  the  same  degree  of  certainty  as  do  grafts  or  buds. 


98  THE    NURSERY-MAN U Ai. 

Cuttings  of  tubers 

Tubers  are  thickened  parts  of  either  roots  or  stems  (page  63). 
and  tuber-cuttings,  therefore,  fall  logically  under  those  divi- 
sions; but  they  are  so  unlike  ordinary 
cuttings  in  form  that  a  separate  classifi- 
cation is  desirable.  One  form  of  tuber- 
cutting  is  seen  in  Fig.  101. 

Tubers  are  stored  with  starch,  which 
supports  or  supplies  the  plant  in  time  of 
need.  Tuber-cuttings,  therefore,  are  able 
to  support  themselves  for  a  time  if  they 
are  placed  in  conditions  suited  to  their 
Fig.  101.  Cuttings  of  a  vegetation.  Roots  rarely  arise  from  the 
po  a  o  u  er.  tubers  themsclves,  but  from  the  base  of 

the  young  shoots  that  spring  from  them.  This  fact  is  famil- 
iarly illustrated  in  the  cuttings  of  Irish  and  sweet  potatoes. 
The  young  sprouts  can  be  removed  and  planted  separately, 
and  others  arise  from  the  tuber  to  take  their  places.  This 
practice  is  employed  sometimes  with  new  or  scarce  vari- 
eties of  the  Irish  potato,  and  three  or  four  crops  of  rooted 
sprouts  can  be  obtained  from  one  tuber.  The  tuber  is  cut 
in  two  lengthwise,  and  is  then  laid  in  damp  moss  or  loose 
earth  with  the  cut  surface  down,  and  as  soon  as  the  sprouts 
throw  out  roots  sufficient  for  maintenance  they  are  severe^, 
and  potted  off.  Sweet  potatoes  are  usually  propagated  in  this 
way. 

In  making  tuber-cuttings,  at  least  one  eye  or  bud  is  left  to 
each  piece,  if  eyes  are  present ;  but  in  root-tubers,  as  the  sweet 
potato,  there  are  no  buds,  and  it  is  necessary  only  to  leave  on 
each  portion  a  piece  of  the  epidermis  from  which  adventitious 
buds  may  develop.  The  pseudobulbs  of  some  orchids  are 
treated  in  this  way,  or  the  whole  bulb  is  preferably  planted. 
A.  shoot,  usually  termed  an  off-shoot,  arises  from  each  oseudf* 


PROPAGATION   BY   MEANS   OF   CUTTINGS 


99 


bulb  (Fig.  51),  or  each  piece  of  it,  and  this  is  potted  off  as  an 
independent  plant. 

Cuttings  of  the  ordinary  stems  of  some  tuberiferous  plants 
will  produce  tubers  instead  of  plants.  This  is  the  case  with 
the  potato.  The  stem-cutting  produces  a  small  tuber  near 
its  lower  extremity,  or  sometimes  in  the  axil  of  a  leaf  above 
ground,  and  this  tuber  must  be  planted  to  obtain  a  new  plant. 
Fig.  102  (from  an  old  print)  shows  a  tuber-like  branch  on  a 
potato  plant,  borne  a  foot  above  the  ground.  Leaf-cuttings 
of  certain  tuberiferous  or  bulbiferous 
plants  produce  little  tubes  or  bulbs  in 
the  same  way.  (See  the  gloxinia.  Fig. 
110.)  Hyacinth  leaves,  inserted  in  sand 
in  a  frame,  soon  produce  little  bulblets  at 
their  base,  and  these  can  be  removed 
and  planted  in  the  same  way  as  the 
bulbels  described  in  Chapter  III. 

Many  tubers  or  tuber-like  parts,  that 
have  a  very  moist  or  soft  interior  and  a 
hard  or  close  covering,  vegetate  more 
satisfactorily  if  allowed  to  dry  for  a 
time  before  planting.  The  pseudobulbs 
of  orchids,  crowns  of  pineapples  and 
pads  of  cactuses  are  examples.  Parts 
of  cactuses  are  sometimes  allow^ed  to  lie 
in  the  sun  two  to  four  weeks  before 
planting.  This  treatment  dissipates  the  excessive  moisture, 
and  induces  the  formation  of  adventitious  buds. 


Fig. 


102.     Stem  tuber  oi 
potato. 


Cuttings  of  roots 

Many  plants  can  be  multiplied  with  ease  by  means  of  short 
cuttings  of  the  roots,  particularly  all  species  that  have  a  natural 
tendency  to  "sucker"  or  send  up  sprouts  from  the  root.     Root- 


100 


THE    NURSERY-MANUAL 


Fig.  103. 


Root-cutting  of  black- 
berry (x  I). 


stocks  or  underground  stems  can  be  made  into  cuttings,  as 
explained  under  division,  in  Chapter  III;    but  true  root-cut- 
tings possess    no    buds    whatever, 
the     buds     developing     after    the 
cutting  is  planted. 

Roots  are  usually  cut  into  pieces 
1  to  3  inches  long,  and  are  planted 
horizontally  in  soil  or  moss.  These 
cuttings  thrive  best  with  bottom  heat,  but  blackberries  and 
some  other  plants  grow  fairly  well  with  ordinary  outdoor 
treatment.  A  root-cutting  of  the  blackberry  is  shown  in 
Fig.  103.  A  growing  dracena  root-cutting  is  illustrated  in 
Fig.  104.  The  cuttings  of  this  plant  are  handled  in  a  propagat- 
ing-frame  or  on  a  cutting-bench  in  a  warm  greenhouse.  The 
bouvardias  and  many  other  plants  are  grown  similarly  from 
root-cuttings.  Many  of  the  fruit-trees,  as  peach,  cherry, 
apple  and  pear,  can  be  grown  readily  from  short  root-cuttings 
in  a  frame.  Among 
kitchen-garden  plants,  the 
horse-radish  is  the  most 
familiar  example  of  prop- 
agation by  root-cuttings. 
The  small  side  roots,  \ 
inch  or  so  in  diameter, 
are  removed  when  the 
horse-radish  is  dug  in  fall 
or  spring,  and  are  cut  into 
4-  to  6-inch  length  as  seen 
in  Fig.  105.  These  cut- 
tings are  known  as  "sets" 
among  gardeners.     When 

the     crowns     of     rhubarb  Fig.  104.     Root-cutting  of  draceim. 

are  cut  and  used  for  propagation,  the  operation  falls  strictly 
under  division,  from  the  fact  that  buds  or  eyes  are  present ; 


i^U 


FROPAGATION   BY   MEANS   OF   CUTTINGS 


101 


and  the  same  remark  applies  to  certain  other  so-called  root- 
cuttings. 

While   root-cuttings   perpetuate   the   variety,    they   do   not 
always  transmit  variegations,  or  other  characteristics  of  the 


Fig.  105.     Horse-radish  root-cuttings. 

top.  For  example,  the  variegated  prickly  comfrey  does  not 
always  come  true  from  root-cuttings.  If  the  top  is  a  graft, 
of  course  the  root-cutting  will  not  reproduce  the  stock,  unless 
the  given  roots  may  have  started  from  the  cion.  Thus  the 
roots  of  dwarf  pears  may  be  either  quince  from  the  stock,  or 
pear  from  the  cion. 

Cuttings  of  leaves 

Many  thick  and  heavy  leaves  may  be  used  as  cuttings. 
Leaf-cuttings  are  most  commonly  employed  in  the  showy- 
leaved  begonias,  in 
succulents,  and  in 
gloxinias,  but  many 
plants  can  be  prop- 
agated by  them. 
Even  the  cabbage 
can  be  made  to 
grow  from  leaf- 
cuttings.  The  bry- 
ophyllum  is  one  of 
the  best  plants  for  showing  the  possibilities  of  propagation 
by  leaves.     If  one  of  the  thick  leaves  is  laid  on  moss  or  sand 


Fig.  106.     Leaf-propagation  of  bryophylluni. 


102 


THE   NURSERY- MAN  UAL 


in  a  moist  atmosphere,  a  young  plant  will  start  from  nearl^^ 
every  pronounced  angle  in  the  margin   (Fig.   106).     In  Rex 


Fig.  107.     Begonia  leaf-cutting. 

begonias,  also,  the  whole  leaf  may  be  used,  as  shown  in  Fig.  107. 
It  is  laid  on  moist  sand  in  a  frame  and  held  down  by  splinters 
thrust  through  the  ribs.  The  wound  made  by  the  peg  induces 
the  formation  of  roots,  and  a  young  plant  arises.  A  half 
dozen  or  more  plants  may  be  obtained  from  one  leaf.  Some 
operators  cut  the  ribs,  instead  of  wounding  them  with  a  prick. 
Many  gardeners  prefer  to  divide  the  leaf  into  two  nearly  equal 
parts,  and  then  set  each  part,  or  the  better  one,  upright  in  the 
soil,  the  severed  edge  being  covered.  This  is  shown  in  Fig.  108. 
Fewer  plants  —  often  only  one  —  are  obtained  in  this  manner, 

but  they  are  strong. 

When  stock  is  scarce,  the 
begonia  leaf  may  be  cut  into 
several  fan-shaped  pieces. 
The  whole  leaf  mav  be 
divided  into  as  manv  tri- 
7/  angular  segments  as  can  be 
secured  with  a  portion  of 
the  petiole,  a  strong  rib  or 

An  upright   begonia  leat-cut-  .  ,      ,  ,      , 

ting  a  vem  attached  at  the  base.' 


Fig.   108. 


PROPAGATION    BY    MEANS   OF   CUTTINGS 


103 


Fig.     109.        Begonia    plant 


these  pieces,  inserted  and  treated 
like  coleus  cuttings,  will  root  and 
make  good  plants  within  a  reason- 
able time,  say  four  to  six  months. 
This  form  of  cutting  should  be  2  to 
3  inches  long  by  1  inch  or  1^  inches 
wide.  Ordinarily,  in  this  style 
of  leaf-cutting,  the  petiole  or  stalk 
is  cut  off  close  to  the  leaf  and 
the  lower  third  or  fourth  of  the 
leaf  is  then  severed  by  a  nearly 
straight  cut  across  the  leaf.  The 
somewhat  triangular  remainder  is 
then  cut  into  as  many  wedge-shaped 
pieces  as  there  are  ribs  in  the  leaf, 

each      rib    •  forming      the      center      of    starting  from  a  triangular  leaf- 

.  ™,        cutting. 

a    cutting.       The 

point  of  each  cutting  should  contain  a  por- 
tion of  the  petiole.  The  points  of  these 
triangular  parts  are  inserted  in  the  soil  a 
half  inch  or  so,  the  cutting  standing  erect  or 
nearly  so.  Roots  form  at  the  base  or  point, 
and  a  young  plant  springs  from  the  same 
point  (Fig.  109). 

The  gloxinia  and  others  of  its  kin  propa- 
gate by  leaves,  but  instead  of  a  young 
plant  arising  directly  from  the  cutting,  a 
little  tuber  forms  on  the  free  end  of  the 
petiole  (Fig.  110),  and  this  tuber  is  dried  off 
and  planted  the  same  as  a  mature  tuber. 
Fig.  110.     Leaf-cut-  Most  gardeners  prefer  to  cut  the  leaf-stalk 

ting  of  gloxinia.  ^^^^^^^^  ^^^^  gj^^^^^  j^^  ^j^^  ^^^ 

Leaf-cuttings   are  handled  in  the  same  way  as  soft  stem- 
cuttings,  so  far  as  temperature  and  moisture  are  concerned 


104  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

There  are  comparatively  few  species  in  which  they  form  the 
most  available  means  of  multiplication.  In  some  cases, 
variegation  will  not  be  reproduced  by  the  rooted 
leaf.  This  is  true  in  the  ivy-leaved  geranium 
L'Elegante;  a  good  plant  may  be  obtained,  but  it 
,-         reverts  to  the  plain-leaved  type. 

Cuttings  of  stems 

Cuttings  of  the  stem  divide  themselves  into  two 
general  classes  :  those  known  as  cuttings  of  the  ripe, 
mature  or  hard  wood;  and  cuttings  of  the  green, 
immature  or  soft  wood.  The  two  classes  run  into 
each  other,  and  no  hard  and  fast  line  can  be  drawn 
between  them. 

( 1)    Hardwood  dormant  cuttings. 

By  the  term  hardwood  is  meant  wood  or  tissue 
that  is  mature  or  nearly  so  and  will  not  grow  any 
more  till  the  following  season.  The  leaves  may  not 
have  fallen,  but  the  growth  of  the  season  (at  least 
in  length)  is  completed. 

Cuttings  of  the  hard  dormant  wood  are  made  at 
any  time  from  late  summer  to  spring.     It  is  advis- 
able to  make  them  in  autumn,  to  allow  them  to  cal- 
lus before  the  planting  season,  and  to  forestall  injury 
from  a  severe  winter.     They  may  be  taken  as  early 
as  August,  or  as  soon  as  the  wood  is  mature,  and 
be  stripped  of  leaves.     Callusing  then  takes  place  in 
time  to  allow  of   fall   planting.     Or,    the  cuttings 
Fig   111    taken  in  early  fall  may  be  planted  immediately. 
Currant  cut-  and  be  allowed  to  callus  where  they  stand.     All 
ing  (X  3).     £^u  QuttJng-beds    should    be    mulched,    to    prevent 
the  heaving  of  the  cuttings.     As  a  rule,   however,   dormant 
hardwood  cuttings  are  buried  on  a  sandy  knoll  or  are  stored 


PROPAGATION   BY   MEANS   OF   CUTTINGS 


105 


in  moss,  sand  or  sawdust  in  a  cellar  until  spring.  (See  page  87.) 
There  is  no  general  rule  to  govern  the  length  of  hardwood 
cuttings.  Most  propagators 
prefer  to  make  them  6  to  10 
inches  long,  as  this  is  a  con- 
venient length  to  handle, 
but  the  shorter  length  is  pref- 
erable. Two  buds  are  al- 
ways to  be  taken,  one  bud 
or  one  pair  at  the  top  and 
one  at  the  bottom,  but  in 
"short-jointed"  plants  more 
buds  are  retained.  Some- 
times all  but  the  top  buds 
are  removed  to  prevent  the 
starting  of  shoots  or  sprouts 
underground.  Grape  cuttings 
are  now  comriaonly  cut  to 
two  or  three  buds  (as  in  Fig. 
98),  two  being  the  favorite 
number  for  most  varieties. 
Currant  and  gooseberry  cut- 
tings (Fig.  Ill)  usually  bear 
six  to  ten  buds.  All  long  hardwood  cuttings  are  set  perpen- 
dicularly, or  nearly  so,  and  only  one  or  two  buds  are  allowed 
to  stand  above  the  surface.  A  hardwood  cutting  of  fig, 
after  it  has  made  roots  and  a  terminal  shoot,  is  shown  in 
Fig.  112  (Reimer,  N.  C.  Bull.  208). 

When  the   stock  is  rare, 

y  cuttings  are  made  of  single 

*      eyes  or  buds.     This  is  par- 

FiG.  113.     Single-eye  grape  cutting  (xi).    ticularlv   the    Case    with    the 

grape,  and  currants  and  many  other  plants  are  occasionally 
grown  in  the  same  way.     Fig.  113  shows  a  single-eye  grape 


Fig.  112.     A  well-rooted  cutting  of  fig. 


106  THE   NURSERY- MANUAL 

cutting.  Such  cuttings,  whatever  the  kind  of  plant,  are  com- 
monly started  under  glass  with  bottom  heat,  either  on  a  cut- 
ting-bench or  in  a  hotbed,  being  planted  an  inch  or  so  deep 
in  a  horizontal  position,  with  the  bud  up.  The  soil  should  be 
kept  uniformly  moist,  and  when  the  leaves  appear  the  plants 
should  be  frequently  sprinkled.  In  thirty  to  forty  days  the 
plants  are  ready  to  pot  off.  Single-eye  cuttings  are  usually 
started  about  three  or  four  months  before  the  season  is  fit 
for  outdoor  planting,  or  about  February  in  the  northern  states. 

The  most  advisable  method  of  treatment  varies 
with  the  season  and  locality,  as  well  as  with 
the  species  or  variety.  It  is  well  known,  for 
example,  that  the  Delaware  grape  can  be 
propagated  more  easily  in  some  regions 
than  in  others.  A  common  style  of  single- 
eye  cutting  is  made  with  the  eye  close  to  the 
top  end,  and  a  naked  base  of  an  inch  or  two. 
Fig.  114. "  Spruce  This  is  inserted  in  the  soil  perpendicularly, 
cutting  (X  i).        ^j^i^  ^j^g  ^yg  j^g^  above  the  surface.     It  is 

much  used  for  a  variety  of  plants. 

Many  coniferous  plants  are  increased  by  cuttings  on  a  large 
scale,  especially  retinosporas,  arbor-vitse  and  the  like.  Cut- 
tings are  made  of  the  mature  wood  (Fig.  114),  which  are  planted 
at  once  (in  autumn)  in  sand  under  cover,  usually  in  a  cool 
greenhouse.  Most  of  the  species  root  slowly,  and  they  often 
remain  in  the  original  flats  or  benches  a  year,  but  their  treat- 
ment is  usually  simple.  In  some  cases  junipers,  yews  and 
Cryptomeria  japotiica  will  not  make  roots  for  nearly  twelve 
months,  keeping  in  good  foliage,  however,  and  ultimately  giving 
good  plants.  They  are  always  grown  in  shaded  houses  or 
frames,  and  sometimes  in  inside  propagating-frames  (Fig.  81). 
Often  the  cuttings  are  handled  in  boxes,  as  explained  in  Figs.  95, 
96,  and  perhaps  stored  in  a  pit  (Fig.  97). 

Most   remarkable   instances   of   propagation   by    means    of 


PROPAGATION    BY    MEANS   OF    CUTTINGS  107 

portions  of  stems  are  on  record.  Chips  from  a  tree  trunk 
have  been  known  to  produce  plants,  and  the  olive  is  readily 
increased  by  knots  or  excrescences  formed  upon  the  trunks  of 
old  trees.  These  excrescences  occur  in  many  plants,  and  are 
known  as  knaiirs.  They  are  often  abundant  about  the  base 
of  large  plane-trees,  but  they  are  not  often  used  for  purposes 
of  propagation.  Whole  trunks  will  sometimes  grow  after 
having  been  cut  for  many  months,  especially  of  such  plants  as 
cactuses,  many  euphorbias  and  yuccas.  Sections  of  these 
spongy  trunks  will  grow,  also.  Truncheons  of  cycad  trunks 
and  tree  ferns  may  also  give  rise  to  plants.  Even  saw-logs  of 
common  trees,  as  elm  and  ash,  will  sprout  while  in  the  "  boom/* 
or  water. 

(2)    Green-wood  cuttings. 

Cuttings  of  green  wood  are  more  commonly  employed  than 
those  from  the  mature  dormant  wood,  as  they  "strike"  more 
quickly,  they  can  be  handled  under  glass  in  winter,  and  more 
species  can  be  propagated  by  them  than  by  hardwood  cuttings. 

Green-wood  cuttings  are  of  two  kinds  as  respects  maturity : 
those  taken  from  soft  and  still  growing  parts,  herbaceous  in 
character;  those  made  of  shoots  that  have  practically  ceased 
growing  and  are  woody.  The  shoots  are  spoken  of  as  "wood" 
by  gardeners,  whether  actually  woody  or  not ;  this  has  become 
a  special  technical  term.  "Slips"  are  green- wood  cuttings,  but 
the  term  is  often  restricted  to  those  made  by  pulling  or  "  slip- 
ping" off  a  small  side-shoot,  and  it  is  commonly  applied  to 
the  multiplication  of  plants  in  window-gardens.  All  soft- 
wooded  plants  and  many  ornamental  shrubs  are  increased  by 
green  cuttings  of  one  kind  or  another.  House  plants,  as  gera- 
niums, coleuses,  carnations,  fuchsias,  are  grown  from  the  soft 
young  wood,  and  many  harder  wooded  plants  are  grown  in 
the  same  way.  Sometimes  true  hardwood  is  used,  as  in 
camellia  and  azalea. 


108 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


In  making  softwood  cuttings,  the  first 
thing  to  learn  is  the  proper  texture  or 
age  of  shoot.  A  very  soft  and  flabby  cut- 
ting does  not  grow  readily,  or  if  it  does 
it  is  particularly  liable  to  damp-off,  and 
it  usually  makes  a  weak  plant.  Too  old 
wood  is  slow  to  root,  makes  a  poor  stunted 
plant  and  is  handled  with  difficulty  in 
many  species.  The  ordinary  test  for 
beginners  is  the  way  in  which  the  shoot 
breaks.  If,  on  being  bent,  the  shoot 
snaps  off  squarely  so  as  to  hang  together 
with  only  a  bit  of  bark,  as  in  the  upper 
break  in  Fig.  115,  it  is  in  the  proper  con- 
K  •..,    ^"""S^   ^""^  dition  for  cuttings ;    but  if   it  bends  or 

brittle  wood.  •  i 

crushes,  as  m  the  lower  part  of  the 
figure,  it  is  either  too  old 
or  too  young  for  good  re- 
sults. The  tips  of  the  shoots 
of  soft-wooded  plants  are 
usually  employed,  and  all 
or  some  of  the  leaves  are 
allowed  to  remain. 

The  cuttings  are  inserted 
in  sharp  sand  to  a  sufficient 
depth  to  hold  them  in  place, 


Fig.    115. 


Fig.  116.     Soft  cuttings  (x  §). 


and  the  atmosphere  and  soil  must  be 
kept  moist  to  prevent  wilting  or 
"flagging."  The  cuttings  should  also 
be  shaded  for  the  first  week  or  two. 
It  is  a  common  practice  to  cover 
newly  set  cuttings  with  newspapers 
in  the  heat  of  the  day.     A  propagat- 


FiG.  117.  Coleus  cutting  (xi).  ing-frame   is  often   employed.     Soft 


PROPAGATION   BY   MEANS   OF   CUTTINGS 


109 


Fig.  118. 
One  form  of 
chrysanthe- 
mum cutting 
(xi). 


Fig.  119.     A  dracena  cutting. 


cuttings  are  commonly  cut  below  a  bud  or  to  a 
heel,    but    this   is   unnecessary    in   easily   rooted 

plants  like  gera- 
nium, coleus,  helio- 
trope. Fig.  116 
shows  an  oleander 
cutting  at  a,  a 
carnation  at  b,  and 
a  geranium  at  c. 
A  coleus  cutting 
is  illustrated  in 
Fig.  117.  Many 
growers  prefer  to 
make  a  larger  cutting  of  cer- 
tain firm-wooded  plants,  like 
chrysanthemuros,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  118.  A  bed  of  dracenas  is  shown  in 
Fig.  92,  and  one  of  the  cuttings  is  drawn  in  Fig.  119. 

Sometimes   the  growth    is  so 
short    or    the    stock    so    scarce 
that  the  cutting  cannot  be  made 
long    enough    to    hold   itself  in 
the  soil.     In  such  case  a  tooth- 
pick or  splinter  is  tied  to  the 
cutting   to  hold  it  erect,  as   in 
the  cactus  cutting,  Fig.  120,  or 
the  geranium  cutting,  Fig.  121. 
In  the  window-garden,  soft  cut- 
tings may  be  started  in  a  deep      ^^^-  ^^o. 
plate  half  or  two-thirds  full  of  ting     held 
sand  and  then  filled  to  the  brim  by  splinter 
with    water,    and    not    shaded ; 
„  this  method,  practiced  on  a  larger  scale, 

Flo.  121.     Cuttingheld    .  .-  i>   ^    -       ^^        i     T 

by  toothpick  (x  |).      IS   somctimes  useful  m  the  hot  summer 


no 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


months.     If  bottom  heat  is  desired,  the  plate  may  be  set  on 

the  back  part  of  the  kitchen  stove.      Oleanders  usually  root 

best  when  mature  shoots  are  placed  in 
bottk*.  of  water.  Refractory  subjects 
may  be  inserted  through  the  hole  in  the 
bottom  of  an  inverted  flower-pot,  as  ex^ 
plained  on  page  89. 

Certain  plants  are  grown  from  firmwood 
cuttings,  as  diervillas  (weigela),  roses,  hy- 
drangeas (Fig.  122),  lilacs.  These  plants 
are  woody  subjects,  and  the  cuttings 
represent  shoots  that  have  nearly  or 
practically  completed  growth.  The  cut- 
tings are  taken  in  essentially  the  same 
way  as  the  hardwood  cuttings  described 
on  page  104.  They  are 
often  used  in  summer, 
when  the  buds  have  de- 
veloped and  the  wood 
has  about  attained  its 
Hydrangea  full  size.  They  are 
cut  to  two  to  four  or 

five  buds,  and  are  planted  an  inch  or  two 

deep  in  shaded  frames.     They  are  kept  close 

for  some  days  after  setting,  and   the  tops 

are    sprinkled    frequently.     Care    must   be 

taken  not  to  set  them  too  deep ;   they  are 

rarely  put  in  over  an  inch,  if  the  cutting  is 

six  or  seven  inches  long.     When  taken  early 

in  the   season,  thev   are   known  as  'Mune- 

struck  cuttings." 

Several  weeks  are  required  for  rooting  the 

firmwood  cuttings,  but  good  plants  are  obtained,  which,  when 

wintered  in  a  cold-frame,  may  be  planted  out  in  beds  the  next 


Fig 


122. 

cutting  (x  §). 


Y-^i'. 


Fig. 


123.     Rose  cut 
ting  (x  I). 


PROPAGATION   BY   MEANS   OF   CUTTINGS 


111 


spring.  Great  care  must  be  given  to  shading  and  watering. 
Hydrangea  paniculata  var.  grandiflora  and  Akehia  quinata  are 
examples;  or  any  deutzia  or  more 
easily  handled  plant  of  which  stock 
is  scarce  may  be  cited. 

Part  of  the  leaves  is  removed,  as 
a  rule,  before  these  firmwood  cuttings 
are  set,  as  shown  in  the  rose  cutting, 
Fig.  123,  and  the  hydrangea  cutting. 
Fig.  122,  and  the  viburnum.  Fig.  124. 
This  last  picture  (Fig.  124)  was  made 
in  a  western  New  York  nursery  Sep- 
tember 17.  It  was  then  ready  to  be 
potted  or  set  in  a  bed.  Clipping  the 
leaves  is  not  essential,  but  it  lessens 
evaporation  and  the  tendency  to 
"flag"  or  wilt.  In  most  species  the 
top  can  be  cut  off  the  cutting,  as  seen 
in  Figs.  99  and  122,  but  in  other 
cases  it  seriously  injures  the  cutting. 
Weigelas  are  likely  to  suffer  from 
such  beheading ;    an  unusually  large      Fig.  124.    Summar  cutting 

callus     forms     at     the     bottom,      but    of^  Viburnum,   ready   for  pot- 

the   leaves 

shrivel  and  die.  This  frequently 
occurs  in  what  some  nurserymen 
call  "end  growers,"  among  which 
may  be  mentioned  weigelas  (prop- 
erly diervillas),  the  shrubby  altheas, 
Cercis  japonica,  and  such  spireas  as 
S.  trilobata,  S.  rotundifolia  var.  alba 
of  gardens,  and  S.  canton ensis   {S. 

Reevesii  of  the  trade),  and  the  var.  rohusta  (probably  properly 

S,  blanda). 


Fig.  125.     Single-joint 
rose  cutting. 


112 


THE    NURSERY-MANUAL 


The  reader  must  not  suppose  that  all  rose  cuttings  are  made 
after  the  fashion  of  Fig.  123,  although  that  is  a  popular  style. 
Tea  roses,  and  other  forced  kinds,  are  largely  propagated  from 
softer  wood  cut  to  a  single  eye,  with  most  or  all  of  the  leaf  left 
on  (Fig.  125). 

These  firmwood  cuttings,  about  two  inches  long,  are  often 
made  in  the  winter  from  forced  plants  of  many  kinds.  Cut- 
tings taken  in  February,  in  the  North, 
will  be  ready  to  transfer  to  borders 
or  nursery  beds  when  spring  opens. 
Stout  well-rooted  stock-plants  are 
used  from  which  to  obtain  the  cut- 
tings, and  they  are  cut  back  when 
taken  to  the  house  in  autumn,  in 
order  to  induce  a  good  growth. 
]\Iany  hardy  shrubs  can  be  easily 
propagated  in  this  way  when  the 
work  is  difficult  or  unhandy  in  the 
open  air:  e.g.,Spir(Ea  cantonensis  and 
Fig.  126.     Firming  the  earth  S.  T'anAm///e/,  the  roses  and  the  like. 

about  the  plant.  oj_      i        i       j.        ^   j.i  i?j_ 

btock  plants  or  the  sort  species,  as 
coleus,  lantanas  and  geraniums,  are  obtained  in  like  manner. 

In  the  potting  of  rooted  plants,  care  is  taken  to  firm  the 
earth ;  and  good  workmanship  requires  that  the  plant  be  cen- 
tered in  the  pot.     Fig.  126  shows  the  operation. 

We  now  propagate  only  certain  plants  by  means  of  cuttings, 
although  the  number  is  really  large ;  but  we  may  confidently 
expect  to  learn  how  to  multiply  all  plants  by  such  parts.  We 
need  extended  new  experiments  and  a  study  of  physiological 
relations.  Such  investigations  as  E.  F.  Smith's  on  the  growth 
of  tumors  (Journ.  Agr.  Research,  Jan.  29,  1917)  yield  sugges- 
tions for  difficult  subjects. 


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CHAPTER  VI 
PROPAGATION  BY  MEANS  OF  BUDDING  AND  GRAFTING 

The  vegetative  parts  of  plants  may  be  severed  and  inserted 
in  earth  or  water  for  the  making  of  new  plants.  Under  cer- 
tain conditions,  severed  parts  may  be  inserted  in  other  plants 
with  the  intention  of  making  new  plants :  this  process  is 
known  broadly  as  grafting.  The  part  removed  from  the 
parent  and  inserted  in  the  foster  parent  is  the  cion  (or  scion). 
If  the  cion  is  only  a  bud  with  a  bit  of  bark  and  wood  attached, 
the  operation  of  inserting  it  is  usually  spoken  of  as  budding, 
and  the  term  grafting  is  restricted  to  the  use  of  a  cion  consist- 
ing of  a  piece  of  twig  bearing  two  or  more  buds ;  yet  the  opera- 
tion is  all  grafting,  independently  of  the  make  of  the  cion. 
Budding  is  really  only  one  of  the  forms  of  grafting.  What  is 
known  as  the  graft  is  the  completed  work,  —  the  cion  set  in  its 
new  plant ;  but  sometimes  the  word  graft  is  used  in  the  sense 
of  cion.  The  plant  or  part  in  which  the  cion  is  set  is  the  stock. 
The  whole  subject  of  grafting,  comprising  the  knowledge  and 
discussion  that  goes  with  it,  is  known  as  graftage.  While  all 
plants  can  probably  be  grafted,  in  practice  the  operation  is 
confined  mostly  to  trees  and  shrubs. 

1.    GRAFTAGE   IN  GENERAL 

The  reasons  for  grafting  are  two  :  (1)  To  keep  or  perpetuate 
a  variety  true  to  name,  which  is  not  accomplished  by  seed- 
propagation.     Thus,  if  one  would  grow  the  Elberta  peach  on^ 

I  113 


114 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


Fig.  127.     A  "  standard  "  rose,  produced 
by  budding  on  a  tall  trunk. 

bodies, 
and  low-growing  things  are  elevated  on 
long  trunks  as  in  Fig.  127  (Beal,  Cornell 
Reading-Course  Lesson).  While  the 
budding  of  roses  far  above  ground  is 
allowable  for  the  making  of  ''  standards," 
care  should  be  taken  in  ordinarv 
propagation  to  have  the  bud  close  to 
the  surface,  as  illustrated  by  Beal  at  the 
right  in  Fig.  128. 

Graftage  is  always  a  secondary  oper- 
ation. That  is,  the  root  or  stock  must 
first  be  grown  from  seeds,  layers  or  cut- 
tin2:s,  and  this  stock  is  then  grafted  or 


would  not  attempt  it  by 
planting  the  seed  of  Elberta ; 
on  any  seedling  peach-stock 
buds  from  the  Elberta  could 
be  set  and  the  resulting  tree 
would  be  Elberta.  (2)  To 
multiply  the  plant,  by  mak- 
ing many  plants  from  one. 
Usually  both  purposes  are 
accomplished  at  the  same 
time.     To  these  reasons  mav 

t. 

be  added  a  third :  to  pro- 
duce a  given  change  in  cion 
or  stock,  as  when  a  varietv 
is  dwarfed  by  working  it  on 
a  slower-growing  stock,  or 
fruit-bearing  is  hastened  by 
setting  a  cion  in  an  old 
stock;  weeping  varieties  are 
grafted     high     on    straight 


Fig.    128.     Budded  rosee 
too  high  at  left. 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING     115 


budded  to  the  desired  variety.  Graftage  is  employed  in  the 
propagation  of  the  tree-fruits  in  America,  and  of  very  many 
ornamental  trees  and  shrubs,  and  it  is  indispensable  to  the 
nursery  business. 

'  In  some  species,  which  present  no  marked  or  named  varieties, 
propagation  by  seeds  or  cuttings  is  for  various  reasons  so  diffi- 
cult or  uncertain  that  recourse  must  be  had  to  graftage,  quite 
independently  of  the  perpetuation  of  particular  horticultural 
varieties.  This  is  true  in  many  of  the  firs  and  spruces,  which 
do  not  produce  seeds  to  any  extent  in  cultivation.  In  other 
cases,  graftage  is  employed  to  aid  the  healing  of  wounds  or 
to  repair  and  fill  broken  tops.  It  has  been  used  to  make 
infertile  plants  fertile,  by  grafting  in  the  missing  sex  in 
dioecious  trees,  or  a  variety  with  more  potent  pollen  as 
practiced  in  some  of  the  native  plums. 

•  The  old  discussion  as  to  whether 
grafting  is  a  devitalizing  process  is 
quite  aside  from  the  question,  see- 
ing the  many  necessities  that  must 
be  met.    Poor  work  and  the  match- 


\g.  129.     A  natural  graft  of  forest  trees.     Similar  but  manipulated  graft  at 

the  right. 


116  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

ing  of  uncongenial  kinds  are  surely  to  be  avoided,  but  it  is  now 
too  late  to  raise  the  question  in  the  abstract. 

Grafting  is  not  unknown  in  nature.  Often  limbs  of  trees 
grow  together  solidly  when  they  cross.  Fig.  129  (left)  shows  a 
natural  graft  of  two  trunks  which  in  some  way  became  en- 
tangled. Fig.  129  (right)  is  a  similar  case,  but  here  the  four 
trunks  were  tied  together  intentionally  and  are  now  grown 
into  a  firm  union.  In  these  cases  the  trees  are  of  the  same 
kind  or  species. 

The  limit  within  which  graftage  is  possible  or  desirable 
between  species,  is  determined  only  by  experience.  Probably 
all  exogenous  plants  —  those  with  a  distinct  bark  and  pith  — 
can  be  regularly  grafted.  Plants  must  be  more  or  less  closely 
related  to  allow  of  successful  graftage  of  the  one  on  the  other. 
As  a  rule,  plants  of  close  botanical  relationship,  especially  those 
of  the  same  genus,  intergraft  with 'more  or  less  ease;  yet  this 
relationship  is  by  no  means  a  safe  guide,  particularly  as  the 
current  fashion  among  taxonomists  of  splitting  up  genera  into 
fragments  obscures  affinities.  A  plant  will  often  thrive  better 
on  a  species  reputed  to  be  of  another  genus  than  on  a  congener. 
The  pear,  for  example,  does  better  on  many  thorns  than  on 
the  apple.  Sometimes  plants  of  very  distinct  genera  unite 
readily.  Thus  among  cacti,  the  leafless  zygocactus  (usually 
known  as  epiphyllum)  grows  well  on  the  leaf-bearing  pereskia. 
It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  union  of  tissues  is 
not  a  proof  of  affinity.  Real  affinity  can  be  measured  only 
by  the  thrift,  healthfulness  and  longevity  of  the  cion. 
The  bean  has  been  known  to  make  a  union  with  the  chrysan- 
themum, but  it  almost  immediately  died.  Soft  tissues,  in 
particular,  often  combine  in  plants  that  possess  no  affinity 
whatever,  as  we  commonlv  understand  the  term.  Neither 
does  affinity  refer  to  relative  sizes  or  rates  of  growth  of  stock 
and  cion,  although  the  term  is  sometimes  used  in  this  sense. 
It  cannot  be  said  that  some  varieties  of  pear  lack  affinity  for 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING      117 

the  quince,  and  yet  the  pear  eion  grows  much  larger  than  the 
stock.  In  fact,  it  is  just  this  difference  in  size  and  rate  of 
growth  that  constitutes  the  value  of  the  quince  root  for  dwarfing 
the  pear.  When  there  is  a  marked  difference  in  rate  of  growth 
between  the  stock  and  cion,  an  enlargement  will  occur  in  the 
course  of  time,  either  above  or  below  the  union.  If  this  occurs 
on  the  stem,  it  makes  an  unsightly  tree.  If  the  cion  greatly 
outgrows  the  stock,  a  weak  tree  is  the  result. 

The  inter-relationships  of  stock  and  cion  and  the  physiological 
reactions  in  grafting  have  been  made  the  subject  of  prolonged 
study  by  the  Frenchman,  L.  Daniel.  In  this  field  we  are  to 
expect  important  applications  to  nursery  practice  in  the  course 
of  time. 

The  mutual  influence  of  cion  and  stock  is  a  subject  of  per- 
petual fascination.  It  has  been  much  discussed,  but  without 
real  conclusions  or  much  influence  on  practical  operations 
outside  such  matters  as  the  operations  of  dwarfing  and  the 
elevation  of  weeping  heads  on  straight  stocks.  Some  of  the 
real  and  supposed  reciprocal  influences  may  be  mentioned : 
graftage  may  modify  the  stature  of  a  plant  (dwarfing  and 
vice  versa) ;  adapt  plants  to  adverse  soils  and  climates ;  correct 
a  poor  habit;  afford  good  trunks  for  weeping  and  drooping 
plants;  hasten  and  sometimes  augment  fruit-bearing;  modify 
the  season  of  flowering  or  ripening;  increase  the  size  and 
modify  the  quality  of  flowers  and  fruits ;  transmit  disease. 

Classification  of  graftage 

There  are  three  general  divisions  or  kinds  of  graftage,  be- 
tween which,  however,  there  are  no  decisive  lines  of  separation  : 
1.  Bud-grafting,  or  budding,  in  which  a  single  bud  is  inserted 
under  the  bark  on  the  surface  of  the  wood  of  the  stock.  2.  Cion- 
grafting,  or  grafting  proper,  in  which  a  detached  twig,  bearing 
one  or  more  buds,  is  inserted  into  or  on  the  stock.     3.  Inarch- 


118  THE   NURSERY- MAN  UAL 

ing,  or  grafting  by  approach,  in  which  the  cion  remains  attached 
to  the  parent  plant  until  union  takes  place.  This  last  is  so 
much  like  grafting  proper,  and  is  so  little  used,  that  it  is  dis- 
cussed under  the  head  of  grafting  in  the  succeeding  parts  of 
this  chapter ;  it  is  essentially  a  mode  of  layering.  Each  of  these 
divisions  can  be  almost  endlessly  varied  and  subdivided,  but 
in  this  discussion  only  the  leading  practices  can  be  detailed. 
The  following  enumeration,  after  Baltet,  gives  a  fair  idea  of 
the  kinds  of  grafting  with  distinct  names : 

1.    Biid-grafiing y  or  budding 

1.  Grafting  with  shield-buds. 

Bud-grafting  under  the  bark,  or  by  inoculation. 
Bud-grafting,  ordinary  method. 
Bud-grafting  with  a  cross-shaped  incision. 
Bud-grafting  with  the  incision  reversed. 
Bud-grafting  by  veneering. 
Bud-grafting,  the  combined  or  double  method. 

2.  Flute-grafting. 
Flute-grafting,  common  method. 
Flute-grafting  with  strips  of  bark. 

2.    C ion-grafting,  or  grafting  proper 

1.  Side-grafting  under  the  bark. 
Side-grafting  with  a  simple  branch. 
Side-grafting  with  a  heeled  branch. 
Side-grafting  in  the  alburnum. 
Side-grafting  with  a  straight  cleft. 
Side-grafting  with  an  oblique  cleft. 

2.  Crown-grafting. 
Ordinary  method. 
Improved  method. 

3.  Grafting  de  precision. 
Veneering,  common  method. 
Veneering,  in  crown-grafting 
Veneering  with  strips  of  bark. 


PROPAGATION    BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING     119 

Crown -grafting  by  inlaying. 
Side-grafting  by  inlaying. 

4.  Cleft-grafting,  common  single. 
Cleft-grafting,  common  double. 
Cleft-grafting,  oblique. 
Cleft-grafting,  terminal. 
Cleft-grafting,  terminal  woody. 
Cleft-grafting,  terminal  herbaceous. 

5.  Whip-grafting,  simple. 
Whip-grafting,  complex. 
Saddle-grafting. 

6»   Mixed  grafting. 

Grafting  with  cuttings. 

When  the  cion  is  a  cutting. 

When  the  stock  is  a  cutting. 

When  both  are  cuttings. 

Root-grafting  of  a  plant  on  its  own  root. 

Root-grafting  of  a  plant  on  the  roots  of  another  plant. 

Grafting  with  fruit-buds. 

3.    Inarching,  or  grafting  hy  approach 

1.   Method  by  veneering. 
Method  by  inlaying. 
English  method. 

?.   Inarching  with  an  eye. 
Inarching  with  a  branch. 

Times  and  methods 

Grafting  of  one  kind  or  another  can  be  pefformed  at  almost 
any  time  of  year,  but  the  method  must  be  varied  to  suit  the 
reason  and  other  conditions.  The  one  essential  point  is  to 
make  sure  that  the  cambium  layers,  lying  between  the  bark 
and  hardwood,  meet  as  nearly  as  possible  in  cion  and  stock. 
This  cambium  is  always  present  in  live  parts,  forming  woody 
substance  from  its  inner  surface  and  bark  from  its  outer  surface. 


120  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

In  the  season  of  greatest  growth  it  usually  occurs  as  a  soft 
mucilaginous  and  more  or  less  unorganized  substance,  and  in 
this  stage  it  most  readily  repairs  and  unites  wounded  surfaces ; 
and  for  this  reason  the  grafting  and  budding  of  old  trees  are 
usuall}^  performed  in  the  spring.  Later  in  the  season,  the 
cambium  becomes  firmer  and  more  differentiated,  and  union 
of  woody  parts  is  more  uncertain. 

It  is  necessary  to  cover  the  wounds  to  check  evaporation 
from  the  tissues.  In  outdoor  work,  wax  is  commonly  used 
for  all  kinds  of  grafting  that  wound  the  wood  itself,  but  in 
budding,  the  loosened  bark,  bound  down  securely  by  a  bandage, 
affords  sufficient  protection.  It  is  commonly  supposed  that 
an  ordinary  cleft-graft  cannot  live  if  the  bark  of  the  stock 
immediately  adjoining  it  is  seriously  wounded,  but  the  bark 
really  serves  little  purpose  beyond  protection  of  the  tissues 
beneath.  A  cion  will  grow  when  the  bark  is  mostly  removed 
from  the  stub,  if  adequate  protection  is  given  which  will  not 
interfere  with  the  formation  of  new  bark. 

The  cion  must  always  bear  at  least  one  good  bud.  In  most 
cases,  only  buds  that  are  mature  or  nearly  so  are  used,  but  in 
the  grafting  of  herbs  very  young  buds  may  be  employed. 

These  simple  requirements  may  be  met  in  an  almost  innumer- 
able variety  of  ways.  The  cion  or  bud  may  be  inserted  in  the 
root,  croAvn,  trunk  or  any  of  the  branches ;  it  may  be  set  simply 
under  the  bark,  or  inserted  into  the  wood  itself  in  almost  any 
fashion;  and  the  operation  may  be  performed  either  on  grow- 
ing or  dormant  plants  at  any  season.  But  in  practice  there 
are  comparatively  few  methods  sufficiently  simple  and  ex- 
peditious to  admit  of  general  use;  the  operator  must  be  able 
to  choose  the  particular  method  best  adapted  to  the  case  in 
hand. 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING      121 

2.    BUDDING 

Budding  is  the  operation  of  applying  a  single  bud,  bearing 
Uttle  or  no  wood,  to  the  surface  of  the  living  wood  of  the 
stock.  The  bud  is  applied  directly  to  the  cambium  layer  of 
the  stock.  It  is  commonly  inserted  under  the  bark  of 
the  stock,  but  in  flute-budding  a  piece  of  bark  is  entirely  re- 
moved, and  the  bud  is  used  to  cover  the  wound.  There  is 
every  gradation  between  budding  and  grafting  proper. 

There  is  no  general  rule  to  determine  what  species  of  plants 
should  be  budded  and  what  ones  cion- grafted.  In  fact,  the 
same  species  is  often  multiplied  both  ways.  Plants  with  thin 
bark  and  an  abundance  of  sap  are  likely  to  do  best  when  grafted ; 
or  if  they  are  budded,  the  buds  should  be  inserted  at  a  season 
when  the  sap  is  least  abundant,  to  prevent  the  "strangulation'' 
or  "throwing  out"  of  the  bud.  In  such  species,  the  bark  is 
not  strong  enough  to  hold  the  bud  firmly  until  it  unites;  and 
solid  union  does  not  take  place  until  the  flow  of  sap  lessens. 
Budding  is  largely  employed  on  young  fruit-trees,  and  with 
the  stone-fruits  in  nursery  practice.  It  is  also  used  in  roses 
and  many  ornamental  trees.  Grafting  is  in  common  use  for 
working-over  the  tops  of  large  trees,  and  it  is  also  employed 
extensively  in  certain  kinds  of  nursery  practice  as  the  root- 
grafting  of  apples  and  the  veneer-grafting  of  ornamental 
stock. 

Budding  is  commonly  performed  in  the  growing  season, 
usually  in  summer  or  early  fall,  because  mature  buds  can  be 
procured  at  that  time,  and  young  stocks  are  then  large  enough 
to  be  worked  readily.  But  budding  can  be  done  in  early  spring, 
as  soon  as  the  bark  loosens;  in  this  case  perfectly  dormant 
buds  must  have  been  taken  in  winter  and  kept  in  a  cellar, 
ice-house  or  other  cool  place. 

Budding  is  always  best  accomplished  when  the  bark  slips  or 
peels  easily.     It  can  be  undertaken  when  the  bark  is  tight,  but 


i22 


THE    NURSERY-MANUAL 


Fig.  130. 


the  operation  is  then  tedious  and  uncertain.     It  is  also  more 
certain  when  performed  in  dry  clear  weather. 

Shield-budding 

But  one  style  of  budding  is  in  general  use  in  this  country. 
This  is  known  as  shield-budding,  from  the  shape  of  the  piece 
of  bark  removed  with  the  bud.  Technically,  the  en- 
tire severed  portion,  comprising  both  bark  and  bud, 
is  called  a  "bud."  A  shield-bud  is  shown  natural 
size  in  Fig.  130.  This  is  cut  from  a  young  twig  of 
the  present  season's  growth.  It  is  inserted  under- 
neath the  bark  of  a  young  stock  or  branch,  and  is 
then  securely  tied,  as  shown  in  Fig.  131,  which  is 
SWeld-bud  adapted  from 
(^  ^^-  a  print  once 

published  by  the 
United  States  De- 
partment of  Agricul- 
ture. Sometimes  the 
positions  are  reversed, 
the  bud  being  inserted 
from  below. 

The  minor  details 
of  shield-budding  dif- 
fer with  nearlv  everv 
operator,  and  with 
the  kind  of  plant  to 
be  budded.  In  com- 
mercial practice,  it  is 
performed  in  the 
North  mostly  from 
early  July  until  the  middle  of  September.  In  the  southern 
states  it  usually  begins  in  June.  As  a  rule,  apples  and  pears 
are  budded  earlier  in  the  season  than  peaches.     This  is  because 


Fig.  131.  Shield-budding.  a,  the  incision; 
b,  the  bark  opened;  c,  the  bud  entering;  d,  the 
bud  fully  inserted  ;  e,  the  work  tied  and  complete. 


PROPAGATION    BY    BUDDING    AND    GRAFTING      123 

peach  stocks  are  budded  the  same  season  the  pits  are  planted, 
and  the  operation  must  be  delayed  until  the  stocks  are  large 
enough  to  be  worked. 

Most  fruit-stocks,   particularly   apples   and   pears,   are   not 
budded  until  two  years  after  the  seeds  are  sown.     The  plants 
grow  for  the  first  season  in  a  seed-bed.     The 
next  spring  they  are   transplanted  into  nurs- 
ery  rows,    and    budded   when    they    become 
large  enough,  which  is  usually  the  same  year 
they  are  transplanted.      The  nurseryman  reckons 
the  age  of  his  stock  from  the  time  of  transplant- 
ing, and  the  age  of  the  marketable  tree  from  the  time 
when  the  buds  or  grafts  begin  to  grow. 

Stocks  are  sometimes  "dressed"  or  trimmed  before 
set  in  the  nursery.  This  operation  consists  in  cut- 
ting off  a  fourth  or  third  of  the  top,  and  the  tap-root. 
This  causes  the  roots  to  spread  and  induces  a  vigorous 
growth  of  top ;  and  such  stocks  are  more  expeditiously 
handled  than  long  and  untrimmed  ones.  A  Manetti 
rose  stock,  dressed  and  ready  for  planting,  is  shown  in 
Fig.  132.  This  stock  was  grown  in  France,  and  on 
being  received  in  this  country  was  trimmed  as  it  is  now 
seen.  It  will  now  (in  the  spring)  be  set  in  the  nurs- 
ery row,  and  it  will  be  budded  near  the  surface  of  the 
ground  in  summer. 

Stocks  should  be  at  least  three-eighths  inch 
in  diameter  to  be  budded  with  ease.  Just  be- 
fore the  buds  are  set,  the  leaves  are  removed  ^^^-  ^^?'  Pj^^sf^ 

.  rose  stock  (x  i). 

from  the  base  of  the  stock,  so  that  they  will  not 
interfere  with  the  operation.  They  are  usually  rubbed  off  with 
the  hand  for  a  space  of  five  or  six  inches  above  the  ground. 
They  should  not  be  removed  more  than  two  or  three  days  in 
advance  of  budding,  else  the  growth  of  the  parts  will  be  checked 
and  the  bark  will  "set."     Any  branches  which  might  impede 


^ 


k 


124  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

the  work  of  the  budder,  as  in  the  quince,  are  to  be  cut  off  at 

the  same  time. 

The  bud  is  inserted  an  inch  or  two  above  the  ground,  or  as 

low  down  as  the  budder  can  work.  The  advantage  of  setting 
the  bud  low  is  to  bring  the  resulting  crook  or  union 
where  it  will  not  be  seen,  and  to  enable  it  to  be  set 
below  the  surface  of  the  ground  when  the  tree  is 
transplanted,  if  the  planter  so  desires.  It  is  a  com- 
mon and  good  practice,  also,  to  place  the  bud  on  the 
north  side  of  the  stock  to  shield  it  from  the  sun. 

The  buds  are  taken  from  strong  and  well-hardened 
shoots  of  the  season's  growth  and  of  the  variety  it  is 
desired  to  propagate.  Usually  the  whole  of  the 
present  growth  is  cut,  the  leaves  are  removed  but 
a  part  of  the  petiole  or  stalk  of  each  leaf  is  left  (as 
in  Figs.  130  and  133)  to  serve  as  a  handle  to  the  bud. 
This  trimmed  shoot  is  then  called  a  "stick."  A 
stick  may  bear  two  dozen  good  buds  when  the  growth 
has  been  strong,  but  only  ten  or  twelve  buds  are 
commonly  obtained.  The  upper  buds,  which  are 
usually  not  fully  grown  and  are  borne  on  soft  wood, 
are  generally  discarded. 

The  buds  are  cut  with  a  thin-bladed  sharp  knife. 

Various  styles  of  budding-knives  are  in  use  (Fig.  134), 

Fig  133    ^^^  ^^^  budder  usually  has  preference  for  a  particular 

Stick     of  pattern.     The  essentials  of  a  good  budding-knife  are 

buds  (x  I),  -j-jjggg  .  ^}^g  ygj.y  |3gg^  steel,  a  thin  blade  with  a  curved 

or  half-circular  cutting  end,  which  is  light,  and  handy  in  shape. 
The  curved  end  of  the  blade  is  used  for  making  the  incisions 
in  the  stock.  The  handle  of  the  budding-knife  often  runs  into 
a  thin  bone  scalpel  at  the  end,  and  this  part  is  designed  for 
the  lifting  or  loosening  of  the  bark  on  the  stock.  The  opera- 
tion of  raising  the  bark  by  means  of  this  scalpel  is  often 
called    "boning."      Some   budders,    however,   raise    the   bark 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING      125 


with  the  blade.     A  good  form  of  blade,  but  one  seldom  made, 
has  a  rounded  end,  the  upper  side  of  the  curve  being  ground 


Fig.  134.     Budding-knives. 


The  two-bladed  form  is  a  combined  budding-  and 
grafting-knife. 


simply  to  a  thin  edge.     This  blade  may  be  used  both  for  cut- 
ting the  bark  and  loosening  it,  thus  overcoming  the  necessity 


Fig.  135.     Budding-knife  with  stationary  blade  (x  |). 

of  reversing  the  knife  every  time  a  bud  is  set.  The  blade 
of  a  common  budding-knife  can  be  ground  to  this  shape.  In 
large  fruit-tree  nurseries  the  knife 
shown  in  Fig.  135  (and  the  top  one 
in  Fig.  134)  is  in  common  use. 
This  is  a  cheap  knife  with  a  station- 
ary blade.  When  using  this  knife, 
the  operator  loosens  the  bark  with 
the  rounded  edge  of  the  blade. 

The  bud  is  usually  cut  about  an 
inch  long.  Most  budders  cut  from 
below  upwards  (as  seen  in  the  in- 

,     1       ,•   1      •        -r-^.         too  J     •  Fig.  136.     Cutting  the  bud. 

verted   stick   in    big.    133,    and    in 

Fig.   136),  but   some  prefer  to  make   a   downward    incision. 

It  does  not  matter  just  how  the  bud  is  cut,  if  the  surfaces  are 


126 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


smooth  and  even,  and  the  bud  is  not  too  thick.     Some  propa- 
gators cut  the  buds  as  they  go,  while  others  prefer  to  cut  a 

whole  stick  before  setting  any,  letting  each 
bud  hang  by  a  bit  of  bark  at  the  top,  and 
which  is  cut  off  squarely  when  wanted, 
as  is  shown  in  Fig.  133.  On  a  stick  one- 
fourth  or  three-eighths  inch  in  diameter  the 
cut,  at  its  deepest  joint  just  under  the  bud, 
is  about  one-fourth  the  diameter  of  the 
twig.  A  bit  of  wood,  therefore,  is  re- 
moved with  the  bud,  as  shown  in  Fig.  130. 
There  is  some  discussion  as  to  whether 
this  wood  should  be  left  on  the  bud,  but 
no  definite  experiments  have  been  made 
to  show  that  it  is  inju- 
FiQ.  137.  Preparing  the  rious  to  the  resulting 
stock  (x  \).  ^j.gg        Some      budders 

remove  the  wood  with  the  point  of  the  knife 
or  by  a  deft  twist  as  the  bud  is  taken  from 
the  stick.  But  buds  appear  to  live  equally 
well  with  wood  attached  or  removed.  The 
bit  of  wood  probably  serves  a  useful  purpose 
in  retaining  moisture  in  the  bud,  but  at  the 
same  time  it  interposes  a  foreign  body  be- 
tween the  healing  surfaces,  for  the  bark  of 
the  bud  unites  direct Iv  with  the  surface  of 
the  stock.  Probably  the  very  youngest 
parts  of  the  wood  in  the  bud  unite  with  the 
stock,  but  if  the  budding-knife  cuts  deep, 
the  denser  part  of  the  wood  should  be  re- 
moved from  the  bud.  This  remark  is  par- 
ticularly true,  also,  of  all  buds  likely  to  be  cut  into  the  pith,  as 
in  the  nut-trees. 

The  wound  or  matrix  that  is  to  receive  the  bud  is  made  by 


Fig.   138.     Bud  en- 
tering matrix  (x  5) . 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING      127 


two   incisions,    one   vertical   and   one   transverse    (Fig.    137). 

These  are  light  cuts,  extending  only  through  the  bark.     The 

i^ertical  slit  is  usually  made  first  and  by  the  rounded  end  of 

the  blade.     This  is  an  inch  or  inch  and  a  half  long.     The 

transverse  cut  is  made  across  the  top  of  the  vertical  cut  by  one 

rocking  motion  of  the  blade.     The  corners  of  the  bark  may  be 

lifted  a  little  by  an 

outward    motion    of 

the    blade    so    as   to 

allow  the  bud  to  be 

pushed  in,  but  unless 

the   bark    slips    very 

freely  it  will  have  to 

be   loosened    bv   the 

end  of   the  blade   or 

by  the  scalpel  on  the 

reverse    end    of    the 

handle,  as  previously 

explained. 

The  bud  is  now  in- 
serted in  the  cleft  of 
the  bark.  It  is  thrust 
down  part  way  by 
the  fingers,  as  in  Fig. 
138,  but  it  is  usuallv 
driven  home  by  pushing  down  on  the  leaf-stalk  handle  with 
the  back  of  the  knife-blade.  The  entire  bud  should  pass  into 
the  cleft ;  or  if  a  portion  of  it  projects  above,  it  should  be 
cut  of}'.  If  the  bark  peels  freely,  the  bud  will  slip  in  easily 
and  will  follow  the  cleft,  but  if  it  sticks  somewhat,  more  care 
is  necessary  to  prevent  the  bud  from  running  out.  If  the  bark 
is  very  tight,  it  may  have  to  be  loosened  with  the  knife  through- 
out the  length  of  the  cleft ;  but  budding  should  be  performed 
if  possible,  when  such  pains  is  not  necessary. 


Fig.  139.     The  details  of  shield-budding. 


128  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

The  illustration,  Fig.  139,  shows  some  of  the  details  of  shield- 
budding  (on  a  small  scale)  as  described  by  Peck  in  a  Cornell 
Reading-Course  Lesson  :  1,  bud-sticks ;  2,  cutting  the  bud ;  3,  the 
buds  ready  for  setting;  4,  the  stock  made  ready;  5,  the  bud 
inserted. 

The  bud  must  now  be  tied.  The  whole  matrix  should  be 
closed  and  bound  securely,  as  represented  in  Figs.  140,  143. 
The  string  is  usually  started  below  the  bud,  being 
wrapped  twice  below  and  about  thrice  above  it,  in 
fruit-trees,  the  lower  end  being  held  by  lapping  the 
second  course  over  it,  and  the  upper  end  being  se- 
cured by  drawing  a  bow  through  under  the  upper 
course  or  sometimes  by  tying  an  ordinary  hard  knot. 
Waxed  string  or  bandage  is  sometimes  used,  as  in 
Fig.  131.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to  bind  the 
string  directly  over  the  bud  itself. 

The  strings  are  previously  cut  the  required  length — 

about  one  foot  —  and  the  tying  is  performed  very 

quickly.     Any  soft  cord  may  be  employed.     Yarn 

and  carpet  warp  are  sometimes  used.     Formerly  the 

-^     ,.^    most  common  material  was  bass-bark.     This  is  the 

Fig. 140. 

The  bud  inner  bark  of  the  basswood  or  linden.  The  bark 
tied  (x  §).  jg  stripped  in  early  summer,  and  the  inner  portion  is 
macerated  or  "rotted"  in  water  for  four  or  five  weeks.  It  is 
then  removed,  cut  into  the  desired  lengths,  and  stripped  into 
narrow  bands — one-fourth  to  one-half  inch  wide  —  when  it  may 
be  sorted  and  stored  away  for  future  use.  If  it  is  stiff  and  harsh 
when  it  comes  from  the  maceration,  it  should  be  pounded  lightly 
or  rubbed  through  the  hands  until  it  becomes  soft  and  pliable. 
The  best  tying  material  we  now  have  is  undoubtedly  raffia. 
It  is  an  imported  article,  coming  from  the  eastern  tropics  (the 
product  of  the  palm  Raphia  Ruffia),  and  it  is  so  cheap  that  it  is 
superseding  even  bass-bark.  It  is  strong  and  pliable,  and  is 
an  excellent  material  for  tying  plants  in  the  greenhouse   or 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING     12^^ 


outdoors.  The  greatest  disadvantage  in  its  use  in  budding 
practice  is  its  habit  of  rolling  when  it  becomes  dry,  but  it  may 
be  dipped  in  water  a  few  minutes  before  it  is  taken  into  the 
field,  or,  better  still,  it  may  be  allowed  to  lie  on  the  fresh  ground 
the  previous  night,  during  which  time  it  will  absorb  sufficient 
moisture  to  become  pliable. 

In  two  or  three  weeks  after  the  bud  is  set,  it  will  have  "  stuck" 
or  united  to  the  stock.  The  bandage  must  then  be  removed 
or  cut.  It  is  the  common  practice  to  draw  a  budding-knife 
over  the  strings,  on  the  side  opposite  the  bud,  completely 
severing  them  and  allowing  them  to  fall.  »  If  the  strings  are 
left  on  too  long,  they  will  constrict  the  stem  and 
often  kill  the  bud,  and  they  also  have  a  tendency 
to  cause  the  bud  to  "break"  or  to  begin  to  grow. 
The  bud  on  summer-  and  fall-budded  stock 
should  remain  perfectly  dormant  until  spring, 
for  if  it  should  grow,  it  will  be  injured  and  per- 
haps killed  by  the  winter.  It  should  remain 
green  and  fresh ;  if  it  shrivels  and  becomes 
brown,  even  though  it  still  adheres  to  the  stock, 
it  is  worthless.  A  dormant  bud,  as  it  appears 
in  the  winter  following  the  budding,  is  shown  in 
Fig.  141.  This  bud  was  inserted  in  August,  the 
picture  was  made  in  March,  following;  the  bud 
should  have  started  to  grow  in  May. 

Advantage  may  be  taken,  when  cutting  the 
strings,  to  rebud  any  stocks  that  have  failed.  If 
the  bud  should  begin  to  grow  because  of  a  warm  mant 
and  wet  fall  or  other  reasons,  there  is  little 
remedy  except  perhaps  to  head  the  shoot  back  if  it  should  be* 
come  long  enough.  If  the  stocks  are  protected  by  snow  in 
winter,  some  of  the  buds  at  the  base  of  the  new  shoot  may  pass 
the  cold  in  safety. 

The  spring  following  the  budding,  the  stock  should  be  cut 


Fig.  141.  Dor- 
bud      of 
plum  (x  1). 


130 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


off  just  above  the  bud,  in  order  to  throw  the  entire  force  of  the 
plant  into  the  bud.  The  stock  is  generally,  and  preferably 
cut  off  twice.  The  first  cutting  leaves  the  stub  4  or  5  inches 
long  above  the  bud.  This  cutting  is  made  as  soon  as  the  stocks 
begin  to   show  any  signs  of  activity.     Two  weeks  later,   or 

when  the  bud  has  begun  to  grow  (the 
•  shoot  having  reached  the  length  of  an 
inch  or  tw^o),  the  stock  is  again  cut  off  a 
half  inch  above  the  bud  (Fig.  142).  A 
greater  proportion  of  buds  will  usually 
grow  if  this  double  heading-in  is  done,  in 
outdoor  conditions,  than  if  the  stock  is 
cut  back  to  the  bud  at  the  first  operation. 
Sometimes  the  stub  of  the  stock  is  cut 
long  to  serve  as  a  stake  to  which  to  tie 
the  bud,  preventing  it  from  blowing  out 
and  keeping  it  straight.  Fig.  143  shows 
this  at  3;  and  the  total  removal  of  the 
Fig.    142.     Cutting   off  stub  is  shown  at  3.     (Peck,  Cornell.) 

If  the  root  is  strong  and  the  soil  good, 
the  bud  will  grow  2  to  6  feet  the  first  year,  depending  much  on 
the  species.  All  sprouts  should  be  kept  rubbed  off  the  stock, 
and  the  bud  should  be  trained  to  a  single  stem.  In  weak 
and  crooked  growers,  the  new  shoot  must  be  tied,  and  some 
propagators  in  such  cases  cut  off*  the  stock  5  or  6  inches  above 
the  bud  and  let  it  serve  as  a  stake  to  which  to  tie  (3,  Fig. 
143) ;  but  this  operation  is  too  expensive  to  be  employed  on 
common  fruit-trees.  The  stock,  of  course,  must  not  be  al- 
lowed to  grow.  Late  in  the  season  the  stock  is  cut  down 
close  to  the  bud.  Peaches  and  some  other  fruits  are  sold 
after  having  made  one  season's  growth  from  the  bud,  but 
pears,  apples,  and  most  other  trees  are  not  often  sold  until  the 
second  or  third  year. 

"June-budding"  is  a  term  applied  to  the  budding  of  stocks 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING      131 


in  early  summer,  while  they  are  yet  growing  rapidly.  It  is 
employed  at  the  South,  where  the  stocks  can  be  grown  to 
sufficient  size  from  seed  by  the  last  of  June  or  first  of  July. 
Small  stocks  are  usually  employed  —  those  ranging  from  one- 
fourth  to  one-third  inch  being  preferred.  A  few  strong  leaves 
should  be  left  on  the  stock  below  the  bud,  and  after  the  bud 
has  "stuck"  the  whole  top  should  not  be  cut  off  at  once,  else 
the  growing  plant  will  receive  a  too  severe  check.  It  is  best 
to  bend  the  top 
over  to  check  its 
growth,  or  to  re- 
move the  leaves 
gradually.  The 
bandages  should 
not  be  left  on 
longer  than  six  to 
ten  days  if  the 
stock  is  growing 
rapidly.  To  pre- 
vent the  constric- 
tion of  the  stem, 
muslin  bands  are 
sometimes  used  in- 
stead of  bass  or 
raffia.  In  hot  and 
dry  climates  the 
buds  should  be  set 
inch     or     two 


<S^ 


an 


Fig.    143.      Shield-budding.     The   bud  tied ;    new 
growth  of  bud  tied  to  stock  (the  following  spring)  ; 


1  •    1  •  X  growiii  oi   ouu  Lieu    lu   si 

nigner       m       J  une-    ^^^y^  completely  removed 

budding     than     in 

the  ordinary  practice,  to  escape  the  great  heat  of  the  soil. 
June-budding  is  practiced  on  the  peach  more  than  any  other 
tree,  although  it  can  be  employed  for  any  species  that  will 
give  large  enough  stocks  from  seed  by  the  June  following  the 


132  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


sowing.  In  peaches,  the  bud  will  produce  a  shoot  3  to  5  feet 
high  the  same  season  the  buds  are  set,  so  that  marketable 
budded  trees  can  be  had  complete  in  one  season  from  the  seed. 
A  different  kind  of  early  summer  budding  is  sometimes  per- 
formed on  apples  and  other  fruit-trees.  In  this  case,  the 
stocks  are  one  or  two  years  old  from  the  transplanting,  the 

same  as  for  common  budding,  but  dor- 
mant buds  are  used.     These  buds  are 
cut  the  previous  fall   or  winter  in  the 
same  way  as  cions,  and  when  spring  ap- 
X "^^^'li'JJ^S^P?.^- '..   proaches  they  are  put  on  ice  —  in  saw- 
FiG.  144.    The  operation  dust,  sand  or  moss  —  and  kept  until  the 
ing.  stocks  are  large  enough  to  receive  them. 

The  particular  advantage  of  this  method  is  the  distributing 
of  the  labor  of  budding  over  a  longer  season,  thereby  avoiding 
the  rush  of  the  regular  budding  time.  It  is  also  a  very  useful 
means  of  top-working  trees,  for  the  buds  start  the  same  season 
in  which  they  are  set,  and  a  whole  season  is  thereby  saved  as 
compared  with  the  common  summer  or  fall  budding. 

Budders  usually  carry  a  number  of  "sticks"  with  them  when 
they  enter  the  nursery.  These  may  be  taken  in  the  pocket, 
or  some  budders  carry  four  or  five  sticks  in  the  hand.  The 
budder  follows  a  row  throughout  its  length,  passing  over  those 
trees  that  are  too  small  to  work.  It  is  an  old  mode  to  rest  on 
one  knee  while  budding,  as  in  Fig.  144,  but  some  prefer  to  use  a 
low  stool  or  to  sit.  It  is  a  common  practice,  in  some  nursery 
regions,  for  budders  to  have  a  low  box  with  half  of  the  top 
covered  to  serve  as  a  seat,  and  the  box  is  used  for  carrying 
buds,  string,  knives  and  whetstone.  The  tying  is  usually  done 
by  a  boy,  who  should  follow  close  behind  the  budder  in  order 
that  the  buds  shall  not  dry  out.  An  expert  budder  will  set 
from  1000  to  3000  buds  a  day,  in  good  stock,  and  with  a  boy 
(or  two  of  them  for  the  latter  speed)  to  tie.  Peach  stocks  are 
more  rapidly  budded  than  most  others,  as  the  bark  is  firm 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING     133 


and  slips  easily,  and  some  remarkable  records  are  made  by 
skillful  workmen. 

Budding  is  sometimes  employed  the  same  as  top-grafting 
for  changing  over  the  top  of  an  old  tree  from  one  variety  to 
another.  The  buds  cannot  be  easily  inserted  in  very  old  and 
stiff  bark,  but  in  all  smooth  and  fresh  bark  they  work  readily, 
even  if  the  limb 
is  three  or  four 
years  old;  but  the 
younger  the  limb, 
the  greater  the  pro- 
portion of  buds  that 
may  be  expected  to 
live.  Sometimes 
old  trees  are  se- 
verely pruned  or 
stubbed  the  year 
before  the  budding 
is  to  be  undertaken, 
to  obtain  young 
shoots  in  which  to 
set  the  buds.  The 
stubbing  or  head- 
ing-back of  a  citrus 
tree  to  get  new 
shoots  for  budding 
is  indicated  in  Fig.  145  (adapted  from  a  publication  by  R.  A. 
Davis  of  the  Department  of  Agriculture  of  the  Union  of  South 
Africa).  In  fruit-trees  six  or  seven  years  old  or  less,  budding  is 
fully  as  advantageous  as  grafting.  New  varieties  are  also 
budded  into  old  branches  to  hasten  bearing  of  the  bud,  for  the 
purpose  of  testing  the  variety.  Here  budding  has  a  distinct 
advantage  over  grafting,  as  it  uses  fewer  buds,  for  the  wood 
of  new  sorts  is  often  scarce. 


Fig.    145. 


Tree  headed  back  preparatory  to   top- 
budding. 


134 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


Other  kinds  of  budding 

It  would  not  profit  us  to  pause  with  all  the  kinds  of  budding 
that  may  have  been  named.     Only  those  that  seem  to  represent 

rather  distinct  classes  or  departures  need  be 
mentioned,  and  these  only  briefly. 

Prong-budding  (sometimes  called  twig-bud- 
ding) .  —  A  modification  of  the  common  shield- 
bud  is  the  use  of  a  short  prong  or  spur  in  the 
place  of  a  simple  bud.  The  bud 
is  cut  in  essentially  the  same  way  as 
the  shield-bud  (Fig.  146).  This  is 
chiefly  used  in  certain  regions  for 
^^^bud^Cx^r^^"  i^ut- trees,  particularly  for  the  walnut, 

and  when  the  trees  are  dormant. 
The  method  is  very  much  like  grafting,  for  the  stock 
is  cut  off  just  above  the  bud  when  the  operation  is 
performed,  and  the  wound,  in  addition  to  being  tied,  yig.  147. 
is  covered  with  grafting-wax.  In  budding  the  wal-  Plate-bud- 
nut,  it  is  essential  that  ^^^ 
nearlv  all  the  wood  be  removed  from 
the  bud,  to  bring  as  much  as  possible 
of  the  bark  in  direct  contact  with  the 
stock. 

Plate-budding  is  sometimes  em- 
ployed with  the  olive,  and  is  adapted 
to  other  species.  A  rectangular 
incision  is  made  through  the  bark 
of  the  stock,  and  the  flap  of  bark 
is  turned  down  (Fig.  147).  A  bud 
Budding  by  means  is  cut  of  similar  shape,  with  no 
of  a  rectangular  patch.         ^^^j     attached,     and     is     inserted 

in   the   rectangular    space,    and    is    then    covered    with    the 
flap,  which  is  brought  up  and  tied.     The  subsequent  treat- 


FiQ.  148. 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING      135 


ment  of  the  bud  is  similar  to  that  of  the  ordinary  shield- 
bud. 

The  patch-bud  (P^ig.  148)  is  very  like  the  plate-bud,  but  the 
bark  is  cut  away  from  the  stock  with  no  hanging  strip.  This 
old  method  has  recently  been  revived  for  propa- 
gating the  mango  and  certain  thick-barked  sub- 
jects. Brown  writes  as  follows  on  a  home-made 
knife  for  cutting  the  patches  (B.  S.  Brown,  *' Modern 
Propagation  of  Tree  Fruits,"  1916) :  ''Where  very 
much  bark  budding  is  done  a  special  knife  for 
cutting  the  exact  size  of  the  patch  is  necessary. 
This  can  be  made  by  fastening  two  thin  steel  knife 
blades  to  a  block  of  wood  so  that  two  parallel  cuts 
can  be  made  at  one  time.  Such  a  tool  when  drawn 
horizontallv  across  the  bark  and  then  verticallv, 
will  cut  a  square  patch  the  desired  size.  If  the 
blades  are  set  about  one  inch  apart,  the  patch  will  fig.  149. 
be  one  inch  square  which  will  be  large  enough  for  H-budding 
most  work.  The  same  knife  can  be 
used  in  cutting  the  buds  by  drawing  it  around  the 
twig.  After  the  patch  containing  the  bud  is 
removed  the  sides  can  be  trimmed  to  secure  a 
perfect  fit."  The  illustration  is  adapted  from 
Oliver,  Bull.  46,  Bur.  PI.  Ind.,  U.  S.  Dept.  Agric. 
It  is  a  form  of  flute-budding. 

H-budding  (Fig.  149)  is  a  modification  of  plate- 
budding.  In  this  method,  a  flap  is  formed  both 
above  and  below,  covering  the  bud  from  both 
ends,  and  allowing  of  more  perfect  fitting  of  the 
bark  about  the  bulge  of  the  bud. 

Flute-budding.  —  In  this  method  the  bud  is  not 
covered  by  the  bark  of  the  stock.  Fig.  150  illus- 
trates it.  A  piece  of  bark  is  removed  entirely  from  the  stock, 
and  a  similar  piece  is  fitted  into  its  place.     When  the  wound 


Fig.  150.  Flute- 
budding  (x  §). 


136  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

extends  only  part  way  about  the  stem,  as  in  the  illustration, 
the  operation  is  sometimes  known  as  veneer-budding.  When 
it  extends  entirely  round  the  stem  it  is  called  ring-  or  annular- 
hudding.  Flute-budding  is  usually  performed  late  in  spring. 
It  is  best  adapted  to  plants  with  very  thick  and  heavy  bark. 
The  bud  is  tied  and  afterwards  treated  in  essentially  the  same 
way  as  in  shield-budding.  A  species  of  flute-budding  in  which 
a  ring  of  bark  is  slipped  down  on  the  tip  of  a  shoot, 
which  has  been  girdled  for  the  purpose,  is  called 
whistle-  or  tubular-budding. 

Chip-budding  (Fig.  151)  inserts  a  chip  of  bark  and 
wood  into  a  mortise  in  the  stock.  It  is  used  in 
spring,  when  the  stock  is  dormant  and  the  bark  does 
not  slip.  The  bud  is  held  in  place  by  tying,  and  it 
is  better  for  being  covered  with  wax. 


;-^l 


3.    GRAFTING 

Grafting  is  the  operation  of  inserting  a  cion  (or 
scion)  —  or  a  twig  comprising  one  or  more  buds  — 
'  into  the  stock,  usually  into  an  incision  in  the  wood. 
It  is  variouslv  divided  or  classified,  but  chiefly 
Chip-bud-  with  reference  to  the  position  on  the  plant,  and  to 
^^^s.  the  method  in  which  the  cion  and  stock  are  joined. 

In  reference  to  position,  there  are  four  general  classes: 
1 .  Root-grafting,  in  which  the  stock  is  entirely  a  root.  2.  Crown- 
grafting,  on  the  crown  or  collar  of  the  plant  just  at  the  surface 
of  the  ground,  an  operation  often  confounded  with  root-grafting. 
3.  Stem-grafting,  in  which  the  cion  is  set  on  the  trunk  or  body 
of  the  tree  below  the  limbs,  a  method  occasionally  employed 
with  young  trees.  4.  Top-grafting,  in  the  branches  of  the 
tree  top. 

Any  method  of  inserting  the  cion  may  be  employed  in  these 
classes.     The  best  classification,  particularly  for  purposes  of 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING     137 

description,  is  that  which  considers  methods  of  making  the 
union.  Some  of  these  kinds  of  grafting  are  catalogued  on 
pages  118  and  119.  The  most  important  methods  of  grafting 
are  now  to  be  considered;  but  almost  endless  modifications 
may  be  made  in  the  details  of  the  operations.  The  union  of 
the  cion  with  the  stock,  like  the  union  of  the  bud  and  the  stock, 
depends  on  the  growing  together  of  the  cambial  tissue  of  the 
two.  It  is  essential,  therefore,  that  the  tissue  lying  between 
the  outer  bark  and  the  wood  in  the  cion  should  come  closely 
in  contact  with  the  similar  tissue  of  the  stock. 

Cions  are  cut  in  fall  or  winter,  or  any  time  before  the  buds 
swell  in  spring.  Only  the  previous  year's  growth  is  used  in  all 
ordinary  cases,  but  in  maples  and  some  other  trees,  older  wood 
may  be  taken.  In  the  grafting  of  peaches  —  which  is  rarely 
practiced — the  best  cions  are  supposed  to  be  those  with  a  small 
portion  of  two-year-old  wood  at  the  lower  end.  This  old  wood 
probably  serves  no  other  than  a  mechanical  purpose,  as  the 
recent  wood  is  soft  and  pithy.  It  is  a  common  opinion  that 
cions  are  worthless  if  cut  in  freezing  weather,  but  this  is  un- 
founded if  the  species  is  hardy. 

The  cions  are  stored  in  sand,  moss  or  sawdust  in  a  cool  cellar, 
or  they  may  be  buried  in  a  sandy  place.  Or  sometimes,  when 
a  few  are  wanted  for  top-grafting,  they  are  thrust  into  the 
ground  beside  the  tree  into  which  they  are  to  be  set  the  follow- 
ing spring.  If  the  cions  are  likely  to  start  before  the  spring 
grafting  can  be  undertaken,  they  may  be  placed  in  an  ice- 
house. Only  well-formed  and  mature  buds  should  be  used. 
Sometimes  flower-buds  are  inserted  for  the  purpose  of  fruiting 
a  new  or  rare  variety  the  following  year,  but  unless  particular 
pains  is  taken  to  nurse  such  a  cion,  it  is  likely  to  give  only  very 
indifferent  results. 

In  practice,  only  three  kinds  of  grafting  need  be  much  con- 
sidered. These  are  whip-grafting,  veneer-grafting  and  cleft- 
grafting. 


138 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


The  ivhip-grafi 

Whip-  or  tongue-grafting  is  employed  only  on  small  stocks, 
usually  those  one  or  two  years  old.     Both  the  cion  and  stock 

are  cut  across  diagonally,  the  cut  surface  ex- 
tending from  1  to  2  inches,  according  to  the  size 
of  the  part.  A  vertical  cleft  is  then  made  in 
both,  and  the  two  are  joined  by  inserting  the 
tongue  of  the  cion  into  the  cleft  of  the  stock. 
The  operation  can  be  understood  by  reference 
to  Figs.  152,  153.  Fig.  152  shows  the  end  of  a 
cion,  cut  natural  size.  The  stock  is  cut  in  the 
same  way,  and  the  two  are  joined  in  Figs.  153, 
154,  155, 156.  The  parts  are  held  firmly 
by  a  bandage — as  bass  bark  or  raffia 
—  passed  five  or  six  times  around 
them.  If  the  graft  is  to  stand  above 
ground,  the  wound  must  be  protected 
by  applying  wax  over  the  bandage. 

Any  sharp  and  strong  thin-bladed  knife  may  be 
used  for  the  making  of  whip-grafts.  For  small  and 
tender  plants,  a  common  budding-knife  is  sufficient, 
but  it  is  too  light  for  most  work.  A  good  style 
of  knife  for  root-grafting  is  shown  in  Fig.  157.  It 
is  much  like  a  shoe-knife,  with  large  cylindrical 
handle  and  a  stationary  blade. 

Root-grafting,  particularly  of  fruit  stocks,  is 
performed  almost  entirely  by  the  whip-graft,  in 
winter.  The  stocks,  either  one  or  two  years  old,  are 
dug  and  stored  in  autumn.  In  January  or  February 
the  grafting  is  begun.  In  true  root-grafting,  only 
pieces  of  roots  are  used ;  but  most  nurserymen 
prefer  to  use  the  whole  root  and  graft  at  the  crown,  making 
the  strong  "root-grafts"  of  commerce  known  as  "whole  roots." 


Fig.  152.  Cions 
of  w  h  i  p-g  raft 
(xl). 


Fig. 153. 
Whip-graft 
in  position 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING      139 


In  piece-root-grafting,  from  two  to  four  trees  are  made  from 
a  single  root.     A  piece  of  root  2  to  4  inches  long  is  used, 
as  shown  in  Fig.    154.     The  parts  are   usually 
held  by  winding  with  waxed  string  or  waxed 
bands.      The  string    should  be  strong   enough 
to  hold  the  parts  securely  and  yet  weak  enough 
to  be  broken  without  hurting  the  hands.     No. 
18  knitting  cotton  answers  this  purpose  admi- 
rably.    It  should  be  bought  in  balls,  which  are 
allowed  to  stand  for  a  few  minutes  in  melted  wax. 
The  wax  soon  saturates  the  ball.     The 
ball  is  then  removed  and  laid  away  to 
dry,  when  it  is  ready  for  use.     This 
waxed  string  will  remain  almost   in- 
definitely in  condition  for  use.     Waxed 
bands,  sometimes  used,  are  made  by 
spreading  melted  wax  over  thin  mus- 
lin, which  is  cut  into   narrow   strips 
when  dry.     The  string  is  the  more 
useful    for    rapid    work.     The   com- 
pleted grafts  are  packed  away  in  sand, 
moss  or  sawdust  in  a  cool  cellar  until 
spring,  when  the  two   parts   will   be 
firmly  callused  together.    Some  propa- 
gators  eliminate    all    tying   of    root- 
grafts.     The  grafts  are  packed  away  ^^^-  i^^-  Piece- 
snugly,   and  if   the   storage   cellar  is 
cool  —  not  above  40°  —  they  will  knit  together  so 
that  they  can  be  planted  without  danger  of  break- 
Graft  on  a  ^^S  apart.     If  the  cellar  is  warm,  the  grafts  will  start 
short  piece  into  growth  and  be  lost.     String  or  bandages  that  do 
not  soon  decay  when  growth  begins  will  strangle  the 
graft.  The  waxed  cotton  may  last  too  long  and  do  much  damage. 
In  common  root-grafting  in  the  East  and  South,  the  cion 


140 


THE   NURSERY -MAN  UAL 


bears  about  three  buds,  and  the  root  is  about 
the  same  length,  or  perhaps  shorter.  The  vari- 
able and  unknown  character  of  these  roots,  as 
regards  hardiness,  renders  it  important  that,  in 
very  severe  climates,  roots  should  be  obtained 
from  the  same  plant  as  the  cion,  the  hardi- 
ness of  which  is  known.  It  is  the  practice, 
therefore,  in  the  prairie  states  to  use  a  very 
long  cion  —  8  inches  to  a  foot  —  and  to  set  it 
in  the  ground  up  to  the  top  bud.  The  piece 
of  root  serves  as  a  temporary  support,  and 
roots  are  formed  from  the  cion.  When  the 
tree  is  ready  for  sale  the  old  piece  of  root  is 
often  removed,  or  sometimes  it  falls  away  of 
itself.  In  this  way  own-rooted  trees  are  ob- 
tained. Even  cions  of  ordinary  length  often 
emit  roots,  as  seen  in  Fig.  158,  but  such  cions 
are  not  long  enough  to  reach  into  uniformly 
moist  soil.  Some  varieties  of  fruit-trees  are 
found  to  make  roots  from  the  cion  more  readily 
than  others.  Root-grafting  is  often  cheaper 
than  budding,  as  it  is  performed  when  labor  is 
on  a  long  piece  of  available,  and  two  or  more  trees  may  be  made 

root,  or  a  whole    ^  ^^^^^ 

root. 

Cuttings  rather  than  seedlings  may  be  used 
as  stocks  when  a  variety  that  grows  readily  from  cuttings 
unites    quickly    with    a   variety   that    does    not    grow   from 


Fig.  156.   Graft 


^Z3ID 


Fig.  157.     Grafting-knife  with  stationary  blade  (x  §). 

cuttings.     Fig.   159  is  such  a  case;     the   stock,  or  cutting, 
is  the  true  Downing  mulberry,  which  strikes  readily.     The 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING      141 


cion  is  any  of  the  varieties  of 
Moms  alba  or  M.  mbra,  as  the 
New  American  or  Hicks,  which 
roots  with  difficulty  from  cuttings. 
In  this  case,  the  buds  have  been 
cut  from  the  stock  to  prevent  it 
from  suckering. 

Root-grafted  vs.  budded  stock 

The  relative  merits 
of  budded  and  root- 
grafted  trees  have  been 
strongly  championed  in 
the  past,  on  both  sides. 
The  apple  is  the  only 
tree  concerned  in  the 
controversy  in  a  large 
way.  After  many  years 
of  discussion  and  a  con- 
siderable number  of  in- 
conclusive experiments, 
it  is  fair  to  say  that 
the  final  results  in  or- 
chard work  show  no  rec- 
ognizable differences. 
Good  orchards  are  pro- 
duced by  either  kind 
of  stock.  In  the  East, 
the  demand  is  for  bud- 
ded trees ;  in  the  Middle 
West,  probably  nine- 
tenths  of  the  apple  stock  is  root-grafted.  Choice 
Wh/"-  aited  ^^  ^^^^  planter  (so  far  as  choice  exists)  between 
cutting  (x  ^).  budded  or  whole-root  grafts  is  probably  mostly  a 


Fig.    158. 


Growing    root-graft 


142 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


matter  of  habit.     The  question  has  practically  passed  its  con- 
troversial stage. 

Probably  the  method  of  propagation  —  whether  by  bud  or 
graft  —  is  not  the  important  factor.  The  test  turns  on  the 
size  of  roots  in  the  grafting  process  and  the  method 
of  trimming  the  stock;  and  the  greater  number  of 
manipulations  the  roots  receive  in  the  grafting  oper- 
ation may  have  some  significance.  A  whole-root 
grafted  tree  should  be  comparable  with  a  budded 
tree,  the  entire  root  system  (or  practically  so)  being 
used  in  both  cases.  When  it  comes 
to  piece-roots,  the  question  re- 
solves itself  into  the  sizes  of  the 
pieces,  their  age,  whether  from 
young  seedling  stock  or  from  older 
trees,  whether  the  pieces  are  used 
merely  as  nurses  until  the  cion 
becomes  own-rooted.  In  certain 
experiments,  the  piece-roots  have 
given  better  account  of  themselves 
in  after  years  than  the  whole 
roots;  in  other  tests  the  reverse 
has  been  the  case.  This  indi- 
cates that  other  factors  beside  the 
size  of  the  original  root  enter  into 
the  problem;  yet  one  may  con- 
clude that  the  whole  root  is  pref- 
FiG.  160.  erable    to    the    piece-root,    other 

^Zm  *'"g^  being  the  same. 

seedling,    1       The  westem-grown  apple  seed- 

y^^^'  ling  (Fig.  160),  produced  on  deep  crIb?importedrp''pie 

rich  land  and  with  a  long  growing   season,  seedling. 

lends  itself  well  to  piece-root-grafting.     The  imported   stock, 

known  in  the  trade  as  French  Crab,  is  likely  to  be  more  branchy 


PROPAGATION    BY    BUDDING    AND    GRAFTING      143 

(Fig.  161 ;  both  from  Peck,  Cornell  Reading-Course  Lesson). 
The  buyer  of  apple  or  other  trees  is  likely  to  place  much  im- 
portance on  the  root  system;  yet  the  orchard  test  may  not 
verify  his  likes  or  prejudices.  Many  years  ago  there  was  a 
decided  reaction  against  the  well-formed  whole  root,  and  the 
Stringfellow  method  practically  removed  the  roots  and 
planted  the  root-stub.  Fig.  162  represents  what  the  planter 
would  call  good  root  systems.      How   valuable   thev   would 


Fig.  162,     Good  root  systems. 

be  to  the  orchard  is  quite  another  question;  yet  inasmuch 
as  abundant  roots  are  the  natural  product  of  a  tree,  it  is 
fair  to  assume  that  they  should  be  accepted  at  face  value. 

Modified  ivhip-grafts. 

There  are  many  modifications  of  the  whip-graft  but  it  will 
not  profit  us  to  pause  long  with  them. 

The  side  whip-graft  places  the  cion  on  the  side  of  a  stock 
rather  than  on  the  end  of  it.  The  tongues  in  cion  and  stock 
are  cut  the  same  as  in  the  customary  method  already  ex- 
plained. 

An  old-fashioned  modification  of  the  whip-graft  leaves  the 


144 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


end  of  the  cion  4  or  5  inches  long,  so  that  it  may  lead  down* 
wards  into  a  bottle  or  dish  of  water,  thereby  absorbing  sufficient 
moisture  to  maintain  the  cion  until  it  unites  with  the  stock. 

Another  modification,  with  the  same 
purpose  in  view,  is  to  allow  the  ends 
of  the  tying  material  to  fall  into  the 
water.  These  methods  are  called 
"bottle-grafting"  in  the  books.  They 
are  really  of  little  account,  although  thej' 
might  be  employed  for  certain  difficult 
subjects  amongst  ornamental  plants ;  but 
even  there,  better  results  can  be  ob- 
tained by  placing  the  grafts  in  a  close 
frame,  or  by  packing  them  in  moss. 

A  "double  whip-graft"  is  shown  in  Fig. 
163.  In  this  method,  the  cion  is  cut 
on  one  side  into  a  wedge,  and  on  the 
other  with  a  long  tongue  (h)  .  The  stock- 
is  provided  with  two  clefts,  at  R  and  p. 
This  cion,  having  two  supports  in  the 
stock,  forms  a  most  intimate  contact 
with  its  host;  but  it  is  too  slow,  and  the  rewards  too  slight, 
to  warrant  its  general  use.  This  is  sometimes,  but  erro- 
neously, called  a  saddle-graft. 


Fig.  163.     Double  whip 
graft  (x  I). 


The  wneer-graft 

A  style  of  grafting  much  used,  particularly  for  ornamentals 
and  for  rare  stocks  grown  in  pots,  is  seen  in  Fig.  164.  An  in- 
cision is  made  on  the  stock  just  through  the  bark  and  about 
an  inch  long  (^),the  bit  of  bark  being  removed  by  means  of 
a  downward  sloping  cut  at  its  base.  The  base  of  the  cion  is 
cut  off  obliquely,  and  on  the  longest  side  a  piece  of  bark  is 
removed,   corresponding  to  the  part  taken  from  the   stock. 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING      145 


The  little  tongue  of  bark  on  the  stock  covers  the  base  of  the 
cion  when  it  is  set.  The  cionistied  tightly  to  the  stock  (5), usu- 
ally with  raffia. 

This  method  of  grafting  makes  no  incision  into  old  wood, 
and  all  wounded  surfaces  are  completely  covered  by  the  match- 
ing of  the  cion  and  stock.  It  is  not  necessary,  therefore,  to 
wax  over  the  wounds,  as  a  rule.  If  used  in  the  open,  however, 
wax  should  be  used.  The  parts  grow  together  uniformly  and 
quickly,  making  a  solid  and  perfect  union,  as  shown  at  D.  So 
far  as  the  union  of  the  parts  is  concerned,  this  is  probably  the 
most  perfect  form  of  grafting.  This  method,  which  is  nothing 
but  the  side-graft  of  the  English  gardeners  with  the  most  im- 
portant addition  of  a  longer  tongue  on  the  stock,  is  known  by 
various  names,  but  it  is 
oftenest  called  veneer-graft-  r^ 
ing  in  this  country. 

Veneer-grafting  is  em- 
ployed mostly  from  No- 
vember to  March,  on  potted 
plants.  Stocks  grown  out- 
doors are  potted  in  the  early 
fall  and  carried  over  in  a 
cool  house  or  pit.  The  cion 
is  applied  an  inch  or  two 
above  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  and  the  stock  need 
not  be  headed  back  until 
the  cion  has  united.  (See 
Fig.  165.) 

Both  dormant  and  grow- 
ing cions  are  used.  All  plants  in  full  sap  must  be  placed 
under  a  frame  in  the  house,  in  which  they  may  be  almost 
entirely  buried  with  sphagnum,  not  too  wet,  and  the  house 
kept  cool  and  rather  moist  until   the   cions  are   well   estab- 


Veneer-grafting  (x  ^). 


146 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


lished.  Some  species  may  be  transferred  to  the  open  border 
or  to  nursery  rows  in  the  spring,  but  most  plants  grafted 
in  this  way  are  handled  in  pots  the  following  season. 
Rhododendrons,  Japanese  maples  and  many  conifers  are  some 
of  the  plants  multiplied  by  veneer-grafting.  Such  plants  are 
usually  laid  on  their  sides  in  frames  and  covered  with  moss 

for  several  days,  or  until  heal- 
ing begins. 

This  method,  when  used 
with  hardy  or  tender  plants, 
gives  a  great  advantage  in 
much  experimental  work,  be- 
cause the  stock  is  not  injured 
by  a  failure,  and  can  be  used 
over  again  many  times,  per- 
haps even  in  the  same  sea- 
son; and  the  manipulation  is 
simple,  and  easily  acquired  by 
inexperienced  hands. 


The  cleft-graft 

In  cleft-grafting,  the  stock  is 
cut  off  squarely  and  split,  and 
into  the  split  a  cion  with  a 
wedge-shaped  base  is  inserted.  It  is  adapted  to  large  stocks, 
and  is  the  method  employed  for  top-grafting  old  trees,  its 
only  competitor  being  the  bark-graft  described  on  page  160. 
Figs.  166,  167  illustrate  the  operation. 

The  end  of  the  stock,  technically  called  a  "stub,"  is  usually 
large  enough  to  accommodate  two  cions,  one  on  either  side. 
In  fact,  it  is  better  to  use  two  cions,  not  only  because  they 
double  the  chances  of  success,  but  because  they  hasten  the 
healing  of  the  stub.     Cleft-grafting  is  at  best  a  harsh  process, 


Fig.  165.     Veneer- graft  (x  ^). 


PROPAGATION    BY    BUDDING    AND   GRAFTING      147 


especially  on  large  limbs,  and  its  evils  should  be  mitigated  as 
much  as  possible  by  choosing  small  limbs  for  the  operation. 
In  common  practice,  the  cion  (Fig.  167) 
bears  three  buds,  the  lowest  one  stand- 
ing just  above  the  wedge.  This  lowest 
bud  is  usually  entirely  covered  with  wax, 
but  it  pushes  through  without  difficulty. 
In  fact,  being  nearest  the  source  of  food 
and  most  protected,  its  chances  of  living 
are  greater  than  those  of  the  higher  buds. 
The  sides  of  the  cion  must  be 

cut  smooth  and  even.     A  single 

draw  cut  on  each   side  with  a 

sharp  blade  is  much  better  than 

two   or   three   partial   cuts.     A 

good   grafter   makes   a  cion  by 

three  strokes  of  the  knife,  one 

to  cut  off  the  cion  and  two  to 

shape   it.      The   outer    edge   of 

the    wedge    should    be   a    little 

thicker  than  the  inner,  so  that 

the  stock  will   bind  on   it  and 

hold  it  firm  at  the  point  where 

the  union  first  takes  place.     The  twigs  from  which 

the  cions  are  made  are  taken  in  late  fall  or  winter,  or 

very  early  spring,  and  are  kept  as  directed  on  page 

137. 
The   stock  or   stub   must  be  cut  off  square  and 

smooth   with   a    sharp   and   preferably  fine-toothed 

saw.  If  one  desires  to  be  specially  careful  in  the 
Cleft-graft  operation,  the  end  of  the  stub,  or  at  least  two  oppo- 
cion  (x  1).   gj^g  gjjgj^  ^^  j^^  j^^y  ^^  dressed  oft"  with  a  knife,  so 

that  the  juncture  between  the  bark  and  the  wood  mav    be 
more  easily  seen.     Professional  grafters  rarely  resort  to  this 


Fig.   166.      Cleft-graft- 
ing (x  1). 


Fig. 167. 


148 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


Fig.  168. 


Fig.  169.    Cleft-grafting-knife  (x  I), 


dressing,    however.     The    stub    is   then    split    to    the   depth 
of    li   or    2    inches.      Various    styles    of    grafting-knife    are 

used  to  split  the  stub.  One 
of  the  best  ones  is  shown  in 
Fig.  168.  It  is  commonly 
made  from  an  old  file  by  a 

Home-made  grafting-knife.       bkcksmith.       The     blade     is 

curved,  so  that  the  bark  of  the  stub  is  drawn  in  when  the 
knife  is  entering,  thereby  lessening  the  danger  of  loosening 
the  bark.  Another  style  of  knife  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  169. 
In  this  tool,  the  cutting  edge  is  straight,  and,  being  thinner 
than  the  other  tool,  tends  rather  to  cut  the  stub  than  to  split 
it.  On  the  end  of  these  knives 
is  a  wedge,  about  4  or  5  inches  (^^^^gte^g^,,,,--^^ 

long,  for  opening  the  cleft.     The  ^ miMilM^r-^" 

wedge  is  driven  into  the  cleft  and 
allowed  to  remain  while  the  cions 
are  placed.  If  the  cleft  does  not  open  wide  enough  to  allow  the 
cions  to  enter,  the  operator  bears  down  on  the  handle.  It  is 
important  that  the  wedge  stand  well  away  from  the  curved 
blade  in  the  knife  shown  in  Fig.  168,  else  it  cannot  be  driven 
into  the  stub.  In  Fig.  169  —  showing  the  style  of  knife 
commonly  seen  in  the  market  —  the  wedge  is  too  short  for 

most  efficient  service. 

There  are  various  devices 
for  facilitating  the  operation 
of  cleft-grafting,  but  none 
of  them  has  become  pop- 
ular. One  of  the  best  is 
Hoit's  device  (Fig.  170), 
which  cuts  a  slot  into  the 
side  of  the  stub.  The  ma- 
chine is  held  in  place  by  a  trigger  or  clamp  working  in  notches 
on  the  under  side  of  the  frame.     The  upper  handle  is  then 


Fig.  170.     Hoit's  grafter. 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING      149 

thrown  over  to  the  right,  forcing  the  knife  into  the  stub.     This 

is  a  Californian  device.     A  very  good  grafting-knife  for  small 

stocks  or  trees  in  nurserv  row  is  the  Thomas 

knife  shown  in  Fig.  171.     The  larger  arm  is 

made  entirely  of  wood.     At  its  upper  end 

is    a    grooved    part,   into   which  the  blade 

closes.     This  blade   can   be    made   from   a 

steel  case-knife,  and  it  should  be  about  2^ 

inches  long.     It  is  secured  to  an  iron  handle. 

The  essential  feature  of  this  implement  is 

the  draw  cut,  which  is  obtained  by  setting 

the  blades  and  the  pivot  in  just  the  posi- 
tion shown  in  the  figure.     The  stock  is  cut 

off   by   the   shears,    and    the   cleft   is  then 

made  by  turning  the  shears  up  and  making 

a  vertical  cut.     The  cleft,  therefore,  is  cut 
instead  of  split,  insuring  a  tight 
fit  of  the   cions.    This  tool  is 
said   to   be  specially  useful  on  fig.  171.    Thomas' 
hard  and  crooked  grained  stocks.        graftmg-knife. 

In  cleft-grafting,  the  cions  must  be  thrust  down 
to  the  first  bud,  or  even  deeper,  and  it  is  impera- 
tive that  they  fit  tightly.  The  line  of  separation 
between  the  bark  and  wood  in  the  cion  should 
meet  as  nearly  as  possible  the  similar  line  in  the 
stock.  The  cions  are  usually  set  a  trifle  obliquely, 
the  tops  projecting  outwards,  to  insure  the  con- 
tact or  crossing  of  the  cambium  layers.  Writers 
often    state   that   it   is   imperative   to   have   the 

TTtp         1 72 

Rooted  grape  exact  lines  between  the  bark  and  wood  meet  for 
cutting  cleft-  at  least  the  greater  part  of  their  length,  but  this 
is  an  error.  The  callus  or  connecting  tissue 
spreads  beyond  its  former  limits  when  the  wounds  begin  to 
heal.     The  most  essential  points  are  rather  to  be  sure  that 


150 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


the  cion  fits  tightly  throughout  its  whole  length,  and  to  protect 

the  wound  completely  with  an  air-tight  covering.    The  practice 

must  be  modified,  of  course,  to  suit 

the  stock  and  the  occasion. 

Sometimes  rooted  cuttings  of  grapes 

are    cleft-grafted     (Fig.     172),     and 

these,  being  in  the  ground,  are  well 

protected,  and  it  is  difficult  to  split 

the  stub  deep  enough  to  allow  the  cion 

to  be  thrust  in  far.     If  the  stub,  in 
Fig.  173      Cleft-grafting  on  ^j^j^  ^^^   j-^^j     elasticity  after 

old  grape  stock.  ...  j  ^^ 

being  split,  it  should  be 
tightly  wound  to  keep  the  cion  in  place.  An  old 
grape  stock,  cleft-grafted,  and  then  covered  with 
earth,  is  seen  in  Fig.  173.  These  covered  grape 
stubs  are  usually  not  waxed.  This  is  the  common, 
and  generally  the  best,  method  of  grafting  the 
grape. 

The  wounds  must  now  be  covered  with  wax.  Fig. 
174  is  a  stub  after  the  covering  has  been  applied. 
If  the  grafting  is  performed  in  early  spring,  when 
the  weather  is  cold,  the  wax  will  have  to  be  applied 
with  a  brush.  The  wax  is  melted  in  a  gluepot, 
which  is  carried  to  the  tree.  But  if  the  weather  is 
warm  enough  to  soften  the  wax,  it  should  be  ap- 
plied with  the  hands.  The  hands  are  first  greased 
to  prevent  the  wax  from  sticking.  The  two  side 
or  vertical  portions  are  applied  first.  The  end  of 
the  mass  of  wax  in  the  hand  is  flattened  into  a 
thin  pad  about  a  half  inch  wide.  This  pad  is  then  p^^  ^^^ 
laid  over  the  lower  bud  of  the  cion  and  held  there  A  waxed  stub 
by  the  thumb  of  the  other  hand,  while  the  wax  is 
drawn  downwards  over  the  cleft,  being  pressed  down  firmly 
upon  the  bark  by  the  thumb  of  the  first  hand.     The  wax 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING      151 

gradually  tails  out  until  it  breaks  off  just  below  the  lowest 
point  of  the  cleft.  The  flattened  upper  part  is  then  wrapped 
around  the  cion  from  either  side,  completely  and  tightly 
encircling  it.  A  simple  deft  wrapping  of  the  wax  about  the 
cion  makes  a  tighter  joint  than  can  be  secured  in  twice  the 
time  by  any  method  of  pinching  it  into  place.  Another  pad 
of  wax  is  now  flattened  and  applied  over  the  end  of  the  stub. 
Most  grafters  apply  a  bit  of  wax  to  the  tops  of  the  cion  also. 
All  the  wounds  must  be  covered  securely. 
For  applying  the  wax  warm,  a  heater 
is  needed.  A  good  form  is  shown  in 
Fig.  175  (Peck,  Cornell  Reading-Course 
Lesson).  The  wax  is  in  the  top  recep- 
tacle, standing  in  a  dish  or  pail  of  water. 
In  the  bottom  is  a  lamp  to  supply  the 
heat. 


Top-working  trees  by  means  of  the  cleft- 
graft.  Fig.  175.     Pot  for  heating 

Cleft-grafting  is  employed  not  so 
much  to  multiply  the  plant  as  to  change  a  tree  from  one 
variety  to  another.  It  is  the  form  of  grafting  used  in  old 
apple  and  pear  orchards,  and  it  may  be  employed  on  plum 
and  many  other  trees.  The  top-grafting  of  large  trees  is  an 
important  operation,  and  many  men  make  it  a  business. 
These  men  usually  charge  by  the  stub  and  warrant,  the 
warrant  meaning  that  one  cion  of  the  stub  must  be  alive  at 
counting  time  in  late  summer.  A  grafter  in  good  "setting" 
can  graft  from  400  to  800  stubs  a  day  and  wax  them  himself. 
Much  depends  on  the  size  of  the  trees,  their  shape  and  the 
amount  of  pruning  before  the  grafter  can  work  in  them 
handily.  Every  man  who  owns  an  orchard  of  any  extent 
should  be  able  to  do  his  own  grafting. 
.    An  important  consideration  in  the  top-grafting  of  an  old 


152 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


tree  is  the  shaping  of  the  top.  The  old  top  is  to  be  removed 
in  three  or  four  or  five  years,  and  a  new  one  is  to  be  grown  in 
its  place.  If  the  tree  is  old,  the  original  plan  or  shape  of  the 
top  will  have  to  be  followed  in  its  general  outlines.  The 
branches  should  be  grafted,  as  a  rule,  where  they  do  not  ex- 


FiG.  176.     Top-grafted  old  tree. 

ceed  an  inch  and  a  half  in  diameter,  as  cions  do  better  in  such 
branches,  the  wounds  heal  quickly,  and  the  injury  to  the  tree 
is  less  than  when  very  large  stubs  are  used.  The  operator 
should  endeavor  to  cut  all  the  leading  stubs  at  approximately 
equal  distances  from  the  center  of  the  tree;  and  then,  to  pre- 
vent long  and  pole-like  branches,  various  minor  side-branches 
should  be  grafted.  These  will  serve  to  fill  out  the  new  top  and 
to  afford  footholds  for  pruners  and  pickers.     Fig.  176  is  a  good 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING      153 

illustration  of  an  old  tree  just  top-grafted.  Many  stubs  should 
be  set,  and  at  least  all  the  prominent  branches  should  be  grafted 
if  the  tree  has  been  well-trained.  It  is  better  to  have  too  man}) 
stubs  and  to  be  obliged  to  remove  some  of  them  in  after  years, 
than  to  have  too  few.  In  thick-topped  trees,  care  must  be 
exercised  not  to  cut  out  so  much  foliage  the  first  year  that  the 
inner  branches  will  sunburn.  All  large  branches  which  must 
be  sacrificed  ought  to  be  cut  out  w^hen  the  grafting  is  per- 
formed, as  they  increase  in  diameter  very  rapidly  after  so 
much  of  the  top  is  removed. 
A  horizontal  branch  lying  directly  over  or  under  another 


Fig.  177.     Showing  the  upright  direction  of  a  graft  in  a  horizontal  limb. 

should  not  be  grafted,  for  it  is  the  habit  of  grafts  to  grow 
upright  rather  than  horizontal  in  the  direction  of  the  original 
branch ;  and  it  is  well  to  split  all  stubs  on  such  branches  hori- 
zontally, that  one  cion  may  not  stand  directly  under  another. 
The  habit  of  growth  of  the  cion  is  well  shown  in  Fig.  177, 
illustrating  the  form  and  direction  of  the  original  branch, 
and  the  yearling  grafts.  It  is  evident,  therefore,  that  a  top- 
grafted  tree  is  narrower  and  denser  in  top  than  was  the  tree 


154 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


originally,  and  that  careful  pruning  is  required  to  keep  it  suffi- 
ciently open.  Each  graft  is  virtually  a  new  tree- top  placed 
into  the  tree,  and  for  this  reason,  if  for  no  other,  the  common 
practice  of  grafting  old  trees  close  down  in  the  large  limbs  is 

seen  to  be  inadvisable. 

Small  young  trees  with  a  central 
trunk  or  axis,  such  as  have  been 
planted  only  two  or  three  years, 
may  be  cut  off  bodily,  as  at  R  in 
Fig.  178,  only  one  graft  being 
made.  Usually  such  trees  can  be 
changed  over  in  one  or  two 
years.  When  the  young  tree  is 
well  branched,  however,  it  may 
be  grafted  in  the  branches  as  sug- 
gested in  Fig.  179  (after  Powell). 
In  this  case,  care  should  be  taken 
to  choose  alternating  branches,  so 
that  crotches  will  not  be  formed. 

Top-grafting    is    performed    in 

spring.      The  best  time  is  when 

the  leaves  are  pushing  out,  or  just 

before,  as  wounds  heal  quickly  and 

A  part  removed  in  top-  cions    are    most    likely    to    live. 

But  when  a  large  lot  of  grafting 
is  on  hand,  it  is  necessary  to  begin  a  month,  or  even  two, 
before  the  leaves  start.  On  the  other  hand,  the  operation 
can  be  extended  until  a  month  or  more  after  the  leaves  are  full- 
grown,  but  such  late  cions  make  a  short  growth,  which  is  likely 
to  perish  the  following  winter. 

Professional  grafters  usually  divide  their  men  into  three 
gangs,  —  one  to  do  the  cutting  of  the  stubs,  one  to  set  the  cions 
and  one  to  apply  the  wax.  The  cions  are  whittled  before  the 
grafter  enters  the  tree.     They  are  then  usually  moistened  by 


Fig.  178. 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING    AND   GRAFTING      155 


flipping  into  a  pail  of  water,  and  are  carried  in  a  high  side- 
pocket  in  the  jacket.  The  handiest  mallet  is  a  simple  club  or 
billy,  a  foot  and  a  half  long, 
hung  over  the  wrist  by  a  loose 
soft  cord  (Fig.  180).  ^  This  is 
brought  into  the  palm  of  the 
hand  by  a  swinging  motion 
of  the  forearm.  This  mallet 
is  always  in  place,  never  drops 
from  the  tree,  and  is  not  in 
the  way.  The  knife  shown 
in  Fig.  168  is  commonly  used. 
A  downward  stroke  of  the 
mallet  drives  the  knife  into  the 

tree,    and    the    return    upward    Fig.  179.    Arranging  stubs  to  avoid  bad 
,•  .    •!         .11      •(•  J.1  crotches. 

motion  strikes  the  kniie  on  the 

outer  end  and  removes  it.  Another  downward  motion  drives 
in  the  wedge.  The  sharpened  nails  and  sticks  commonly  pic- 
tured as  wedges  in  cleft-grafting  are  use- 
less for  any  serious  work.  The  various 
combined  implements  devised  to  facili- 
tate cleft-grafting  are  usually  impracti- 
cable in  commercial  work. 

It  is  very  important  that  the  cleft-graft 
be  kept  constantly  sealed  up  until  all  the 
wounded  surfaces  are  completely  covered 
with  the  healing  tissue.  Old  wood  never 
heals.  Its  power  of  growth  is  completed. 
If  a  limb  of  an  apple  tree  a  half  inch  or 
more  in  diameter  is  cut  off,  the  heart  or 
FiQ.  180.    Grafting-mal-  corc  of  the  wound  will    be  found  to  be 

incapable  of  healing  itself.  It  is  covered 
over  by  the  callus  tissue  that  grows  from  the  cambium  under- 
neath the  bark.    The  wound  becomes  hermetically  sealed  by 


156 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


the  new  tissue.  In  the  meantime,  the  wound  should  be  pro- 
tected by  a  dressing,  a  wax  or  paint,  to  prevent  decay.  In 
cleft-grafts,  the  surfaces  should  be  covered  with  wax  every 
year  until  they  are  closed  over  by  the  new  tissue.  In  most 
cases  the  wax  will  loosen  the  first  season,  and  sometimes  it 

falls  off. 

The  character  of  the  healing 
process  is  well  depicted  in  Figs. 
181,  182,  183.  In  Fig.  181  is 
shown  a  yearling  cleft-graft  of 
apple.  The  strip  of  wax  along  the 
side  of  the  cleft  is  seen  to  have  split 
with  the  enlargement  of  the  branch, 
and  the  cleft  has  filled 
up  with  tissue  and  is 
now  safe  from  infection 
of  disease  or  rot.  The 
roll  of  healing  tissue  on 
the  end  of  the  stub  is 
seen  about  the  border 
of  the  wound.  This 
tissue  has  not  vet  covered  the  cleft  across  the  end  of  the  stub, 
and  this  cleft,  if  exposed  to  the  weather,  is  a  fertile  place  for  the 
starting  of  decay,  for  the  cleft  does  not  unite  except  along  the 
sides  of  the  stub  beneath  the  bark.  When  this  stub  is  split 
lengthwise,  following  down  the  cleft,  we  may  readily  distin- 
guish the  location  of  the  healing  tissues.  Fig.  182.  The  lower 
ends  of  the  cions  are  at  e,  and  they  are  now  inactive  and  nearly 
lifeless  bits  of  wood.  The  new  or  healing  tissue  has  been  built 
up  on  the  outward  side  of  the  cions.  On  the  left,  this  deposition 
of  new  tissue  mav  be  traced  as  far  down  as  H,  while  it  is  thick 
and  heavy  at  e  and  above.  The  whole  interior  part  of  the  stub, 
represented  by  the  dark  shading,  is  dead  tissue,  which  will 
soon  begin  to  decay  unless  it  is  well  protected  from  the  weather. 


Fig.    181.       Cleft-graft    a 
year  after  setting  (x  §). 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING     157 

In  time,  the  old  stub  becomes 
hermetically  sealed  by  the  re- 
parative    tissue.       Fig.     183 
shows  a   section   of   an   apple 
graft    nearly    fifty   years    old. 
The    original   stub,    about   an 
inch  in  diameter,  is  still  seen  in  the 
center,  the  end  of  it  entirely  free  from 
the  inclosing  tissue.     It  is  a  dead  piece  of 
wood,   a  foreign   body    preserved    in    the 
heart  of  the  tree.     The  depth  of  the  old 
cleft   or   split    is    traced   in    the    heavily 

shaded  part  of  this 

central  core.  When 

this     section     was 

made,  the  cores  of 

the  old  cions  were 

still   found  in   the 

cleft  and  the  graft- 

i^.f-y.'^-f^'th-        p,,,  ,32.      The  stub 

lully  laid  on  a  half  i8i  split  through  the 

century    ago -still    ^^^^t' if  d  seen  from  the 
^       ^  ^    opposite  side. 

adhered      to      the 
Fir  IS-?     q    f       .    ^^    ^^^  ^^  ^^^  ^^^^^  Underneath  the  mass 

±•10.  isd.     bection  of  old    r^f    +•  „  xu    j.    i      i        -i     ,     . 

cleft-graft  on   apple  tree.    ^^   tissue   that   had   piled    itsclf    over 

Cion  has  outgrown  the  stock,    the  old  WOUnd. 

Other  uses  of  the  cleft-graft. 

Cleft-grafting  is  put  to  various  other  uses  than  the  top- 
grafting  of  old  trees.  It  is  in  common  use  on  soft  and  fleshy 
stocks,  as  cactuses,  and  various  fleshy  roots.  Fig.  184  shows  a 
cleft-graft  on  cactus.  The  cion  is  held  in  place  with  a  pin  or 
cactus  spine,  and  it  is  then  bound  with  raffia  or  other  cord. 
Waxing  is  not  necessary. 

A  similar  graft  is  often  made  on  peony  roots.    The  cleft  in  the 


158 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


thick  root  is  cut  with  a  knife,  and  the  stock  is  bound 
up  securely,  usually  with  wire,  as  cord,  unless  waxed, 
rots  off  too  quickly.  Wax  is  not  used,  as  the  graft 
is  buried  to  the  top  bud.  The  peony  is  grafted  in 
summer. 

Dahlias  are  often  grafted  in  the  same  fashion,  al- 
though  some    operators    prefer,    in    such 
fleshy  subjects,  to  cut  out  a  section  from 
Cleft-graft  ^^^  ^idc  of  the  stock  to  receive  the  cion, 
of    cactus  rather  than  to  make  a  cleft,  much  as  in 

(x  -)  .... 

^  '  the  process  of  inlaying  illustrated  in  Fig. 

192.      Hollyhocks,   certain   ipomeas,   gloxinias   and 
other  thick-rooted  plants  may  be  similarly  treated. 

Miscellaneous  forms  of  grafting 

The  ways  of  grafting  are  as  many  as  the  ways  of 
whittling.      Certain  ones  of  them  have  gained  con- 
siderable currency  and  may  be  set  down 
here. 

Splice-grafting.  —  The  simplest  form  of 
grafting  is  that  shown  in  Fig.  185,  in  which 
the  two  parts  are  simply  cut  across  diag- 
onally and  laid  together.     The  parts  are 
held  only  by  the  string,  which,  together      fig.  185. 
with   the  wax,   is    applied    in   the    same    SpUce-graft 
way  as  on  the  whip-graft.     Splice-graft- 
ing is  frequently   used  with   soft  or   tender  wood 
that  will  not  admit  of  splitting.    It  is  adapted  mostly 
to  small  shoots. 

Saddle-grafting.  —  Saddle-grafting  is  a  simple  and 
useful  method  for  the  shoots  of  small  growing 
plants.  The  stock  is  cut  to  a  wedge-shape  end 
^  ^^?'  ^^^*  by  two  cuts,  and  the  cion  is  split  and  set  astride 
(x  §).  the  wedge  (Fig.  186).     The  union  is  then  tied  and 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING      159 


svaxed  in  the  same  way  as  exposed  whip-grafts.  It  is 
oftenest  employed  when  a  terminal  bud  is  used,  as  the  wood 
in  such  cions  is  usually  too  weak  to  work 
easily  with  a  tongue. 

Side-grafting.  — There  are  various  methods 
of  inserting  a  cion  into  the  side  of  a  trunk 
or  branch  without  cutting  oft'  the  stock. 
One  of  the  best  methods  is  shown  in  Fig. 
187.  The  example  on  the  right  shows  the 
cion  set  into  an  oblique  cut  in  the  stock, 
and  that  on  the  left  shows  the  lower  part  of 
a  thin-bladed  chisel,  with  a  bent  shank,  Fig.  187.  Side-graft 
that  makes  the  incision.     An  ordinary  chisel  ^^  ^). 

or  a  knife  may  be  used,  however.  The  incision  should  be 
about  an  inch  deep.  The  cion  is  cut  wedge-shape,  as  for  cleft- 
grafting,  and  it  is  pressed  into  the  incision  until  its  cut  sur- 
faces are  concealed  in  the  stock.      The  wound   is  then  tied, 

and,  if  it  is  aboveground  in  the  open,  it  is 
waxed.  The  stock  is  headed  back  vigorously 
to  aid  in  deflecting  a  part  of  the  energy  into 
the  cion.  This  kind  of  grafting  may  be  used 
to  good  advantage  on  rather  small  grape 
stocks,  below  the  surface  of  the  ground. 

Shield^grafting .  —  A  side-graft  that  is  a  com- 
bination of  budding  and  grafting  is  shown  in 
Fig.  188.     The  incision  in  the  stock  is  exactly 
like  that  for  shield-budding  (Figs.  131,  137), 
but  a  cion,  cut  wedge-shape,  is  used  in  place 
^    of  a  bud.     The  graft  is  tied  and  waxed.     This 
style  of  grafting  is  useful   for   many   difficult 
Fig.  188.     Shield-  subjects.     It  is  admirably  adapted  to  the  mul- 
^'^^  '  berry,  in  which  the  operation  should  be  per- 

formed just  as  the  foliage  is  well  started  in  the  spring,  with 
dormant  cions.     The  stock  is  headed  back  a  week  or  so  after 


LUJ 


160 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


m^ 


t 


the  cion  is  set,  and  again   at   intervals  during   the   season. 

The  cion  often  makes  sufficient  growth  the  first  season  to 
form  a  salable  tree  by  fall.  Purple  and  weeping 
beeches  may  be  grafted  in  this  way,  except  that 
the  operation  should  be  performed  in  late  sum- 
mer or  fall,  with  freshly  cut  cions,  much  the  same 
as  for  summer  budding. 

Bark-grafting.  —  A  style  of  grafting  suited  to 
large  trees  is  explained  in  Fig.  189.  This  is  the 
bark-graft,  sometimes  unfortunately  called  crown- 
graft.  The  stock  is  not  cleft,  but  the  cions  are 
pushed  down  between  the  bark  and  wood.  The 
cions  must  be  cut  verv  thin,  so  that  thev  will  not 
break  the  bark  on  the  stock  (Fig.  190).  It  is  cut 
to  a  shoulder  on  either  side.  Several 
cions  can  be  placed  in  a  single  stub,  and 
as  no  splitting  is  necessary,  it  is  a  useful 
method    for    very   large    limbs.       It   is 

rlQ.     189.  .    ,,  PI'  •    •  ,  1 

Bark-graft  Specially  useiul  m  repairing  trees  when 
(x  i).  very  large  branches  are  broken  off.     The 

broken  stub  is  sawn  off  smooth,  and  a  dozen  or 
more  cions  may  be  set  around  it.  Only  a  few  of 
them  should  be  allowed  to  remain  after  the  wound 
has  been  healed.  Bark-grafting  can  be  performed 
to  advantage  only  when  the  bark  peels  readily. 
The  cions  should  be  held  in  place  by  a  firm  band- 
age, as  seen  in  Fig.  189,  and  then  wax  should  be 
applied  as  for  cleft-grafting. 

Bridge-grafting.  —  A  special  form  of  bark-grafting 
is  sometimes  employed  for  covering  girdles  about  cio^n  for 
the  base  of  an  old  tree,  made  by  mice,  gophers  or  bark-graft- 
rabbits.  Inasmuch  as  it  is  surgery  rather  than  ^^^  ^'^  ' 
propagation,  a  discussion  of  it  is  hardly  in  place  in  a  nursery 
book,  yet  the  reader  is  likely  to  look  for  it  here.  (See  Chap- 
ter IV,  ''  The  Pruning-ManuaL") 


PROPAGATION    BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING      161 

The  edges  of  the  wound  are  trimmed,  and  cions  are  cut  an 
inch  or  two  longer  than  the  width  of  the  girdle,  and  they  are 
sharpened  at  both  ends.  One  end  is  inserted  under  the  bark 
below  the  girdle  and  the  other  above  it.  The  cions  are  placed 
close  together  entirely  around  the  tree.  The  two  ends  are 
held  firmly  in  place  by  tying,  and  the  line  of  union  is  then 


'I  A;  J 


Fig.  191.     Bridge-grafting,  for  the  repairing  of  wounds. 

waxed  over.  This  operation  is  said  to  be  necessary  to  keep 
up  the  connection  between  the  root  and  the  top,  but  this  is  in 
most  cases  an  error,  unless  the  girdle  extends  into  the  wood. 
A  good  dressing  of  wax  or  clay,  held  on  with  stout  bandages, 
is  often  much  better  than  the  grafting.  This  method  of 
grafting  is  sometimes,  but  erroneously,  called  inarching.  A 
complete  bark  girdle  made  in  spring  or  early  summer  will 
usually  heal  over  readily  if  it  is  well  bandaged;  and  in  some 
cases  even  the  bandage  is  not  necessary. 

Several  forms  of  bridge-grafting  are  practiced.  Those 
described  by  Peck  in  Cornell  Reading-Course  Lesson  123  may 
be  taken  as  examples  • 


r62  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

"The  ragged  edges  of  the  bark  around  the  wound  are  cut  back  to  live 
tissue  (Fig.  191  B).  At  the  points  above  and  below  the  wound  where  each 
cion  is  to  be  inserted,  the  bark  is  slit  about  one-half  or  three-quarters  of 
an  inch.  The  cion  should  be  about  one  and  one-half  inches  longer  than 
the  space  to  be  abridged,  and  is  beveled  on  each  end  Mith  a  straight  cut 
about  an  inch  long.  This  beveling  exposes  considerable  cambium  layer 
and  facilitates  the  insertion  of  the  cion  under  the  bark  and  against  the 
cambium  layer  of  the  stock.  The  bark  at  the  slit  below  the  wound  is 
loosened  with  the  knife,  and  the  lower  end  of  the  cion  is  inserted  with  the 
cut  side  next  to  the  wood  of  the  tree.  In  order  that  the  cambium  layers 
of  cion  and  stock  may  be  held  in  close  contact,  a  brad  is  driven  through 
the  end  of  the  cion  into  the  tree.  The  slit  at  the  upper  edge  of  the  wound 
is  then  loosened  and  the  other  end  of  the  cion  inserted  and  nailed.  When 
the  bridging  is  completed,  the  area  about  the  ends  of  the  cions  is  care- 
fully waxed  to  prevent  drying  out  and  possible  infection  and  to  exclude 
air  and  moistiire.  In  some  cases  it  may  be  advisable  to  \^Tap  the  parts 
where  the  cions  are  inserted  with  bandage  or  raffia  to  insure  their  being 
held  in  place.  For  a  tree  ^^^th  a  trunk  one  and  a  half  inches  or  less  in 
diameter,  usually  three  cions  in  the  bridge  are  enough.  With  each  inch 
added  to  the  diameter,  at  least  one  cion  should  be  added  to  the  bridge. 

"If  the  principle  that  the  cambium  layers  of  stock  and  cion  should  come 
in  contact  is  carefully  carried  out,  other  forms  of  bridge-grafting  may  be 
used  \Aath  success.  One  of  these  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  191  C.  Here  cuts 
are  made  about  half  an  inch  above  and  below  the  girdle  through  the  bark 
into  the  sapwood,  thus  cutting  across  the  cambium  layer.  The  cions  for 
this  bridge  are  made  very  much  as  those  pre\dously  described.  They  are 
inserted,  nailed,  and  waxed  in  a  similar  way.  Still  another  method  of 
bridge-grafting,  which  some  growers  have  found  very  satisfactory,  is 
illustrated  in  Fig.  191  D.  The  cambium  layer  of  the  stock  is  exposed 
by  cutting  out  pieces  of  bark  above  and  below  the  girdle,  corresponding 
accurately  in  size  \\ith  the  ends  of  the  cion  to  be  inserted.  The  cions 
are  cut  as  shown  in  Fig.  191  2)  and  are  nailed  and  waxed  as  in  the  method 
already  described. 

"Bridge-grafting  may  be  used  on  any  of  the  orchard  fruit  trees  grown 
in  New  York  State.  More  damage  by  girdling  is  probably  done  on  apple 
and  pear  trees  than  on  any  other  fruits ;  however  plum,  cherry  and  peach 
trees  are  often  injured,  and  bridge-grafting,  which  is  the  only  method  of 
saving  them,  is  well  worth  trial.  It  is  ad\isable  to  replace  very  young 
trees  unless  the  girdled  portion  is  far  enough  above  the  root  system  to 
permit  of  cleft-grafting  in  the  trunk  just  below  the  girdle.  If  bridge- 
>;rafting  is  skillfully  done,  and  the  bridged  portion  cpxefully  attended 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING     103 


to  afterward  to  prevent  the  entrance  of  injurious  insects  and  fungous 
diseases,  the  tree  may  apparently  be  as  strong  and  productive  as  its  un- 
injured neighbor.     Some  trees,  however,  will  never  seem  to  recover  wholly 
from  the  injury,  and  unless  bridge-grafting  is  very  care- 
fully done,  a  high  percentage  of  the  trees  so  treated 
cannot  be  expected  to  live.     The  essential  point  to  keep 
in  mind  is  that  the  cambium  layers  of  the  cions  must 
be  held  in  contact  with  the  cambium  layers  of  the  stock, 
both  above  and  below  the  girdled  part,   until  union 
takes  place." 


Inlaying.  —  There  are  various  kinds  of  graft- 
ing in  which  a  piece  of  wotxl  is  removed  from 
the  stock  and  a  cion  is  cut  to  fill  the  cavit}^ 
The  following  methods  described  by  Lodeman 
for  the  grafting  of  grapes  will  serve  as  a  type  ^-^ 

of  the  class  :  "  The  stock  is  cut  off,  as  for  cleft-  Fig.  192.  A 
grafting.  In  place  of  splitting  the  stub,  one  or  °J^^^°^  ^^  ^^^^y* 
two  V-shaped  grooves  are  made  in  it  (Fig.  192). 
These  grooves  are  made  by  means  of  an  instrument  especially 
designed  for  the  purpose.  It  is  shown  in  Fig.  193.  The  tip 
cuts  out  the  triangular  part.  In  the  blade  itself  is  a  part  which 
is  bent  at  the  same  angles  as  the  parts  forming  the  tip.  This 
indented  portion  of  the  blade  is  used  for  cutting  away  the  end 
of  the  cion,  and  with  very  little  practice  an  almost  perfect  fit 
of  the  two  parts  can  be  made.  The  one  or  two  cions  are  then 
placed  upon  the  stock  and  are  firmly  tied  there.  The  tying 
material  should  be  of  such  a  nature  that  it  will  decay  before 
there  is  any  danger  of  strangling  the  cions.  Raffia  does  very 
well,  as  does  also  bast.     No.   18  knitting  cotton,  soaked  in 

boiling  grafting  wax,  may  be  used 
with  entire  satisfaction.  The  liga- 
tures should  be  made  as  tight  as 
possible.  Although  this  method  of 
grafting  is  not  so  commonly  used  as  others,  it  still  possesses 
some  decided  advantages  for  grape  vines.     It  is  a  much  simpler 


Fig.  193.     Inlaying  tool  (x  i). 


164 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


and  more  satisfactory  method  than  cleft-grafting  in  very 
curly  wood.  The  tying  is  a  slow  process,  and  for  straight- 
grained  wood  the  cleft-graft  is  to  be  preferred.  It  is  also  open 
to  the  objection  of  requiring  the  shoots  to  be  staked  or  tied 
to  some  support,  for  the  wind  is  apt  to  break  the  point  of 

union  more  easily  than  with  other 
methods.  A  good  union  admits  of  a 
very  strong  growth,  and  if  the  above 
precautions  are  kept  in  mind  the  vines 
will  equal  those  produced  by  the  more 
common  methods." 

Cutting-grafting .  —  Cuttage  and  graft- 
age  may  be  combined  in  various  ways. 
Cuttings  of  plants  that  root  with  diffi- 
culty are  sometimes  grafted  on  those 
that  root  easily.  A  good  example  is 
in  Fig.  159.  When  the  plants  are 
transplanted,  the  following  autumn  or 
spring,  the  nurse  or  stock  may  be  re- 
moved, the  cion  having  taken  root. 
The  connection  may  be  made  by  means 
Cutting-grafting  ^f  ^  whip-graft,  venccr-graft  or  other 
lorm. 
Root-grafting,  described  on  a  previous  page  (see  Figs,  138- 
143)  is  virtually  a  grafting  of  cuttings.  In  other  cases,  union 
with  an  uncongenial  stock  is  facilitated  by  allowing  the  cion 
to  project  downwards  beyond  the  point  of  union,  and  to  stand 
in  the  soil  or  moss  or  dish  of  water.  (See  also  pages  143-144.) 
Fig.  194  is  a  good  illustration  of  the  practice.  The  cion  ex- 
tends into  the  earth  nearly  as  far  as  the  root  itself.  After 
union  has  taken  place,  the  lower  part  of  the  cion  is  removed. 
This  method  can  be  used  for  magnolias,  mulberries,  birches 
and  many  other  plants  of  which  some  kinds  root  with  more 
or   less   difficulty.     "Bottle-grafting,"    described    in   most   of 


Fig.   194. 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING     165 


the  books,  is  essentially  this  method,  modified  by  letting  the 
end  of  the  cion,  or  a  piece  of  the  bandage,  drop  into  a  bottle  of 
water. 

A  modification  of  this  style  of  grafting  is  the  "cutting  side- 
graft,"  shown  in  Fig.  195.  This  is  adapted  to  root-grafting, 
particularly  of  the  grape.  The  stock  is  cut  wedge-shape,  and 
is  inserted  into  an  oblique  incision  in  the  cion. 

Herhaceous-grafting .  —  In  the  preceding  pages,  the  dis- 
cussions have  had  to  do  with  cions  dormant  or  at  least  well 
hardened,  and  with  stocks  that  contain  more  or  less  hard  woody 
substance.  But  herbaceous  shoots  can  be  grafted  with  ease. 
All  such  plants  as  geraniums,  begonias,  coleuses, 
chrj^santhemums  and  tomatoes,  can  be  made 
to  bear  two  or  more  varieties  on  the  same  indi- 
vidual. Almost  any  style  of  grafting  may  be 
employed,  but  the  veneer-,  cleft-  and  saddle- 
grafts  are  preferred.  Shoots  should  be  chosen 
for  stocks  that  are  rather  firm,  or  in  condition 
for  making  good  cuttings.  The  cions  should 
be  in  a  similar  condition,  and  they  may  be 
taken  from  the  tips  of  branches  or  made  of  a 
section  of  a  branch.  The  union  should  be 
bound  snugly  with  raffia,  and  the  plant  set  in  a 
propagating-frame,  where  it  must  be  kept  close 
for  a  few  days.  It  is  not  necessary,  in  most 
cases,  to  use  wax,  and  on  some  tender  stocks 
the  wax  is  injurious.  INIoss  may  be  bound 
about  the  graft,  but  unless  the  union  is  first  ^^9:  ^^^-  ^^^^^^m^ 

+u  11  ^   I       ^u      u        1  4-  side-graft  (x  \). 

thoroughly  coverea  by  the  bandage,  roots  may 
start  into  the  moss  and  the  parts  may  fail  to  unite.  The 
growing  shoots  of  shrubs  and  trees  can  also  be  grafted,  but 
the  operation  is  rarely  employed.  In  various  coniferous 
trees  (as  pines  and  spruces)  the  young  shoots  are  sometimes 
cleft-  or  saddle-grafted  in  May,  the  parts  being  well  bandaged 


166 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


with  waxed  muslin  or  raffia,  and  shaded  with  paper  bags, 
The  walnut  and  some  other  trees  that  do  not  work  readily  are 
sometimes  treated  in  this  manner. 

Even  leaves  may  be  used  as  stocks  or  cions.  Any  succulent 
and  permanent  leaves,  as  those  of  the  house-leeks,  crassula,  and 
the  like,  may  have  young  shoots  worked  on  them,  and  leaves 
used  as  cuttings  can  often  be  made  to  grow  on  other  plants. 

Fruit-grafting.  —  A  little  known 
species  of  herbaceous-grafting  is  the 
joining  of  parts  of  fruits.  It  is  easily 
performed  with  fleshy  fruits,  as  to- 
matoes, apples,  squashes  and  cucum- 
bers. When  the  fruit  is  half  or  more 
grown,  one-half  or  a  piece  is  cut  away 
and  a  similar  half  from  another  fruit 
is  applied.  Better  results  follow  if  the 
severed  side  of  the  parent  or  stock 
fruit  is  hollowed  out  a  little,  so  as  to 
let  the  foreign  piece  set  into  the  cavity. 
The  edges  of  the  epidermis  of  the 
stock  are  then  tied  up  closely  against 
the  cion  by  means  of  bast  or  raffia. 
The  two  parts  are  securely  tied  to- 
gether, but  no  wax  is  required.  This 
operation  succeeds  best  under  glass,  where  conditions  are  uni- 
form, and  where  winds  do  not  move  the  fruits. 

Seed-grafting.  —  An  interesting  kind  of  grafting  has  been 
described  in  France  by  Pieron,  which  consists  in  using  a  seed 
as  a  cion.  This  has  been  employed  in  the  grape.  A  seed  is 
dropped  into  a  gimlet-hole  near  the  base  of  the  vine  while  the 
sap  is  rising  in  the  spring.  The  seed  germinates,  and  after  a 
time  the  plantlet  unites  with  the  stock. 

Inarching.  —  Inarching,  or  grafting  by  approach,  is  the 
process  of  grafting  contiguous  plants  or  branches  while  the 


Fig.  196.     Inarching. 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING      167 


parts  are  both  attached  to  their  own  roots.     When  the  parts 
have  grown  together,  one  of  them  is  severed  from  its  root. 

The  practice  of  inarching  is  explained  in  Fig.  196.  In  thij 
case,  the  larger  plant  (on  the  left)  is  designed  for  the  stock. 
When  the  smaller  plant  has  united,  it  is  cut  off  just  below  the 
union  and  it  thenceforth  grows  on  the  other  plant.  Limbs 
of  contiguous  trees  are  sometimse  grafted  in  this  way.  It 
is  the  process  employed  by  nature  in  what  is  called  nat- 
ural grafting  (Fig.  129).     Grape-vines  are  often  inarched. 

A  thrifty  young  branch  of  a 
fruit-tree  may  be  inarched  into 
the  stem  of  a  fruit  on  the  same 
tree,  thus  supplying  the  fruit 
with  additional  food  and  caus- 
ing it  to  grow  larger  than  it 
might  if  untreated. 

To  join  the  parts,  it  is  neces- 
sary only  to  remove  the  barks 
between  the  stock  and  cion 
and  then  tie  the  two  together 
snugly.  The  details  are  shown 
in  Fig.  197.  In  M,  a  branch  c  is 
joined  at  o  to  the  stock  h. 
Other  branches,  like  T,  might  be 
similarly  treated.  In  N,  the  method  of  cutting  the  conjoined 
surfaces  is  explained  at  R.  If  outdoors,  the  junction  should  be 
waxed  over ;  and  it  is  then  necessary,  also,  to  secure  the  branches 
so  that  the  wind  cannot  loosen  them.  The  parts  are  some- 
times joined  by  a  tongue,  after  the  manner  of  a  whip-graft, 
but  this  is  rarely  necessary.  Oranges  and  camellias  were  often 
propagated  by  inarching  in  the  old  practice,  but  this  work  is 
now  much  more  easily  accomplished  by  the  veneer-graft. 

Douhle-icorking .  —  Grafting  on  a  grafted  tree  is  known  as 
double-grafting  or  double-working.     It  is  employed   for  the 


Fig.  197.     Details  of  inarching. 


168 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


purpose  of  growing  a  variety  on  an  uncongenial  root,  or  of 
securing  a  straight  and  vigorous  stock  for  a  weak  and  poor 
grower.  The  operation  may  be  either  grafting  or  budding. 
It  is  more  commonlv  the  latter. 

Some  sorts  of  pears  do  not  unite  well  with  the  quince,  and 
if  it  is  desired  to  obtain  dwarfs  of  these  varieties,  a  variety 
that  unites  readily  with  the  quince  must  first  be  put  on  it. 

The  Angouleme  takes  well  to  the 
quince,  and  on  Angouleme  dwarfs 
the  Seckel  and  some  other  varieties 
are  often  worked.  In  double-work- 
ing dwarf  pears,  it  is  imperative  that 
both  unions  be  very  close  to  the 
ground.  The  piece  of  interposed 
wood  is  not  more  than  one  or  two 
inches  in  length.  The  second  cion 
is  usually  set  after  the  first  one  has 
grown  one  season,  although  both 
may  be  set  at  the  same  time. 

Double-grafting  for  the  purpose 
of  securing  a  better  growth  is  often 
practiced.  The  Canada  Red  apple, 
for  example,  is  such  a  poor  grower 
that  it  is  often  stem-worked  or  top-worked  on  the  North- 
ern Spy  or  some  other  strong  stock.  The  Winter  Nelis  and 
the  Josephine  de  Malines  pears  are  often  double-worked 
for  the  same  reason.  Fig.  198  shows  the  top  of  a  double- 
worked  tree.  In  this  case,  the  body  of  the  tree  is  two  years 
old  and  is  itself  a  graft  or  bud  on  a  seedling  root.  The  second 
variety  is  grafted  to  the  point  where  it  is  desired  to  start  the 
permanent  top  of  the  tree,  b}^  whip-grafting  in  this  example. 
The  figure  on  the  left  shows  the  two-year-old  top  growing  from 
this  cion.  The  length  of  the  cion  is  comprised  inside  the  dotted 
lines,  and  this  region  is  enlarged  in  the  figure  on  the  right. 


Fig.  198.    A  double-worked  tree. 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING     169 

The  base  of  the  cion  was  at  t  —  below  which  is  stock  —  and 
the  top  at  N.  The  upper  scar  at  N  is  the  top  of  the  cion  itself, 
but  the  other  scars  show  where  superfluous  twigs  were  removed 
after  the  cion  had  grown  a  year.  This  type  of  double-working 
of  fruit-trees  is  to  be  recommended  for  weak  or  wayward 
growers. 

Another  practice  now  known  as  double-working  is  growing 
up  in  North  American  nurseries.  It  is  the  effort  to  produce 
named  own-rooted  stocks,  thereby  having  a  root  of  known 
hardiness  and  resistance  to  disease.  By  the  use  of  the  long 
cion  and  the  short  root,  the  cion  becomes  own-rooted  in  two 
years  and  this  cion  is  then  used  for  a  stock  as  if  it  were  a  seed- 
ling (page  139).  Success  depends  not  alone  on  the  methods  of 
propagation  but  on  the  choice  of  a  variety  (for  cions)  that 
roots  readily.  Varieties  of  apples,  for  example,  differ  widely 
in  their  ability  to  form  cion-roots.  In  this  field  undoubtedly 
lies  opportunity  for  improvement  in  nursery  propagation  (page 
182).  It  is  the  intention  thereby  to  produce  a  stronger  tree, 
to  escape  such  diseases  as  collar-rot  of  the  apple  and  to  circum- 
vent the  root-louse  (woolly  aphis)  to  which  many  roots  are 
particularly  susceptible.  The  top  of  the  tree  is  of  known  char- 
acter and  quality :  the  problem  is  to  produce  a  root  of  known 
quality. 

Grafting-waxes 

There  are  many  recipes  for  waxes  or  mastics  for  protecting 
grafts  and  covering  wounds.  In  this  country,  the  resin  and 
beeswax  waxes  are  most  used,  although  certain  of  the  alcoholic 
waxes  are  popular  in  some  regions.  In  Europe,  many  clay 
and  pitch  waxes  are  in  common  use.  For  most  purposes,  the 
wax  No.  1,  in  the  following  list,  is  one  of  the  best,  especially 
for  applying  by  the  hand.  The  soft  alcoholic  waxes  are  liable 
to  melt  from  exposed  stubs  in  our  hot  summer  suns;  but  they 
are  useful  for  indoor  work  and  for  cool  weather. 


170  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

In  making  the  resin  and  beeswax  waxes,  the  materials  are 
first  broken  up  finely  and  melted  together.  When  thoroughly 
melted,  the  liquid  is  poured  into  a  pail  or  tub  of  cold  waterc 
It  soon  becomes  hard  enough  to  handle,  and  it  is  then  pulled 
and  worked  until  it  becomes  tough  or  "gets  a  grain,"  at  which 
stage  it  becomes  the  color  of  very  light-colored  manilla  paper. 
When  wax  is  applied  by  hand,  the  hands  must  be  well  greased 
(pages  150-151).  Hard  cake  tallow  is  the  best  material  for 
this  purpose.  In  top-grafting  large  trees,  it  is  well  to  carry 
a  supply  of  tallow  when  waxing,  by  smearing  the  backs  of  the 
hands  before  entering  the  tree. 

Common  hard  resin  and  beeswax  waxes 

1.  Resin,  4  parts  by  weight;  beeswax,  2  parts;  tallow,  1  part.  Tur- 
Dentine,  2  to  4  ounces,  is  sometimes  added. 

2.  Resin,  6  pounds;  beeswax,  1  pound;  linseed  oil,  1  pint.  Apply 
tvarm  with  a  brush,  one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick  over  all  the  joints. 

3.  Resin,  4  pounds ;  beeswax,  1  pound ;  and  from  half  to  a  pint  of  raw 
linseed  oil;  melt  all  together  gradually,  and  turn  into  water  and  pull. 
The  linseed  oil  should  be  entirely  free  from  cottonseed  oil.  A  hard  wax, 
for  use  in  warm  weather. 

Waxes  to  he  applied  melted,  from  a  grafting-pot  (Peck) 

4.  A  good  melted  wax  may  be  made  by  the  following  formula : 

Resin  (crushed) 5  pounds 

Beeswax  (finely  cut) 1  pound 

Powdered  wood  charcoal ^  pound 

Raw  linseed  oil ^  pint 

Melt  the  resin  and  the  beeswax  together,  add  the  charcoal,  and  stii 
the  mixture  briskly  to  prevent  lumping.     Add  the  linseed  oil,  and  mix  ii 
thoroughly  with  the  other  ingredients.     The  wax  is  then  ready  for  use 
It  is  applied  hot  with  a  small  brush.     It  does  not  crack  badly,  nor  does  i 
melt  and  run  during  hot  weather. 


PROPAGATION   BY   BUDDING   AND   GRAFTING     171 

5.  Another  formula  for  melted  wax  is  as  follows  : 

Resin  (crushed) 6  pounds 

Beeswax  (finely  cut) 1  pound 

Linseed  oil 1  pint 

Melt  the  resin  and  the  beeswax  together.  Stir  in  the  linseed  oil,  and 
the  wax  is  readv  for  use. 

Alcoholic  waxes 

6.  Liquid  wax.  —  Resin,  4  parts  by  weight ;  beeswax,  2  parts ;  mutton 
tallow,  1  part;  alcohol,  ^  or  f  part.  Add  the  alcohol  when  the  other 
ingredients  are  melted  together  and  removed  from  the  fire.  A  good  soft 
wax. 

7.  Lefort's  liquid  grafting  wax,  or  alcoholic  plastic.  —  Best  white  resin, 
1  pound;  beef  tallow,  1  ounce;  remove  from  the  fire  and  add  8  ounces 
of  alcohol.     Keep  in  closed  bottles  or  cans. 


Waxed  string  and  bandage 

8.  Waxed  string  for  root-grafting.  —  Into  a  kettle  of  melted  wax 
place  balls  of  No.  18  knitting  cotton.  Turn  the  balls  frequently,  and  in 
five  minutes  they  will  be  thoroughly  saturated,  when  they  are  dried  and 
put  away  for  future  use.  This  material  is  strong  enough,  and  at  the 
same  time  breaks  so  easily  as  not  to  injure  the  hands.  Any  of  the  resin 
and  beeswax  waxes  may  be  used.  When  the  string  is  used,  it  should  be 
warm  enough  to  stick  without  tying. 

9.  Waxed  cloth.  —  Old  calico  or  thin  muslin  is  rolled  on  a  stick  and 
placed  in  melted  wax.  When  saturated  it  is  allowed  to  cool  by  being 
unrolled  on  a  bench.  It  is  then  cut  in  strips  to  suit.  Or  the  wax  may 
be  spread  on  the  cloth  with  a  brush. 


CHAPTER  ^^I 

CERTAIN   ELEMENTS   IN    NURSERY   PRACTICE 

This  Manual  deals  with  the  propagation  of  plants,  not 
with  business  and  commercial  management.  Yet  certain 
phases  of  the  nursery  business  naturally  follow  the  treatment 


Fig.  199.     The  Bragg  tree-digger. 

of  propagation,  having  to  do  with  the  growing  and  saving  of 
the  young  stock ;  these  subjects  we  may  now  consider  briefly. 

In  the  United  States  and  Canada  a  nursery  is  understood 
to  be  an  outdoor  area,  mostly  of  several  or  many  acres,  in 
which  the  propagation  of  trees  and  shrubs  for  commerce  is 
the  dominant  feature.  It  is  this  kind  of  nursery  we  are  now 
to  discuss.  Yet,  in  fact,  a  nursery  is  any  area  or  establish- 
ment in  which  plants  are  propagated  and  nursed,  whether  a 

172 


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miSii"  • 


CERTAIN    ELEMENTS   IN   NURSERY    PRACTICE     173 


greenhouse  bench  or  a  garden,  whether  the  phmts  are  orchids 
or  ferns  or  raspberries,  and  whether  for  one's  own  use  or  for 
sale.  In  North  America,  the  growing  of  fruit-trees  is  sup- 
posed to  be  the  chief  concern  of  a  nursery.  We  have  had  a 
continent  to  transform  into  orchards. 

Present  practice  in  North  American  nurseries  is  to  use  heavy 
machinery  and  implements  for  major  operations.  The  me- 
chanical tractor  is  used  for 
road  work  and  sometimes 
in  fitting  the  land.  Heavy 
soil-cutting  tools  are  em- 
ployed (Plate  XI).  Over- 
row  tillage  is  facilitated  by 
wheel  cultivators  (Plate 
IV).  A  mechanical  peach- 
pit  planter  is  invented. 
Root-grafts  are  wrapped 
by  machines  (Plate  V). 
Leaf-hoppers  are  captured 
on  horse-drawn  devices. 

The  tree-diggers  are  now 
of  many  kinds,  and  the  old  hand-digging  by  means  of  the 
long  spades  is  a  thing  of  the  past  in  the  large-area  fruit-tree 
plantations.  They  are  drawn  by  several  teams  of  horses  or 
mules,  and  sometimes  by  wire  cables  pulled  by  stationary 
engines.  Two  of  the  tree  plows  are  shown  in  Figs.  199  and 
200,  and  again  in  Plate  XI.  Two  forms  of  tree-diggers  used 
in  the  United  States  Forest  Service  (Bull.  479)  are  illustrated 
in  Figs.  201,  202. 


Fig.  200.     The  Stark  tree-digger. 


Nursery  lands  in  relation  to  propagation 

The  best  land  for  general  nursery  purposes  is  heavy  rather 
than   light,   containing  a  good   percentage  of  clay  beneath, 


174 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


loamy  on  top,  and  lying  as  nearly  level  as  possible.  Before 
trees  are  put  on  it,  the  land  should  be  deeply  and  thoroughly 
worked  for  at  least  one  season  and  perhaps  subsoiled.     Nat- 


FiG.  201.     Tree-digger  for  forest-tree  nursery. 

urally  drained  land  is  to  be  preferred,  but  if  the  property  is 
of  such  character  as  to  hold  surface  water  for  two  or  three  days 
at  a  time,  the  area  should  be  thoroughly  tile-drained.     Nursery 


Fig.  202.     Tree-digger  for  a  forest-tree  nursery. 

trees  constitute  a  crop  occupying  the  land  for  a  number  of 
years,  and  unless  this  land  is  in  good  heart  when  the  trees  are 
planted,  there  will  be  little  opportunity  to  raise  a  good  product. 


CERTAIN    ELEMENTS   IN   NURSERY  PRACTICE    175 

The  land  should  be  strong  enough  to  raise  a  good  crop  of  wheat 
or  corn. 

With  fruit-trees,  the  age  of  the  tree  determines  its  salable- 
ness;  therefore  it  is  imperative  that  the  growth  within  the 
given  time  be  rapid  and  strong.  With  ornamentals,  however, 
the  value  is  determined  by  the  size  of  the  specimen,  with  little 
reference  to  its  age.  It  therefore  follows  that  lands  not  suf- 
ficiently strong  to  allow  of  the  profitable  growing  of  fruit-trees 
may  still  be  useful  for  growing  ornamentals. 

In  considering  the  question  of  the  fertility  of  nursery  lands, 
it  is  first  necessary  to  determine  what  are  the  proportions  of 
the  chief  elements  of  plant-food  removed  by  the  trees  from 
the  soil.  The  standard  investigations  of  Roberts,  at  Cornell, 
still  constitute  an  excellent  record  : 

"Amounts  and  values  of  fertilizing  constituents  removed 
by  an  acre  of  nursery  trees  in  three  years : 


Apples 

Pears 

Peaches 

Plums 

Lbs. 

Value 

Lbs. 

Value 

Lbs. 

Value 

Lbs. 

Value 

Nitrogen  .... 
Phosphoric  acid 
Potash    .     .       .     . 

29.07 
10.13 
19.73 

$4  36 
71 
89 

24.83 

7.83 

13.33 

$3  73 
54 
60 

$4  87 

22.42 

5.42 

11.75 

$3  36 

38 
53 

19.75 

4.42 

11.50 

$2  96 

31 

52 

$5  96 

$4  27 

$3  79 

"The  above  results  show  conclusively  that  but  a  small 
amount  of  plant-food  is  removed  from  the  soil  by  the  growth 
of  nursery  stock.  They  also  show  that  more  phosphoric  acid 
is  removed  by  the  apples  and  pears  than  by  the  peaches  and 
plums;  but  any  ordinary  soil,  cultivated  as  nursery  lands  are, 
should  easily  furnish  in  three  years  ten  times  the  plant-food 
used  by  the  trees.  In  order  to  compare  the  drafts  made  by 
nursery  stock  and  some  of  the  common  crops  raised  in  mixed 


X76  ■  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

husbandry,  the  following  statement  will  be  useful :  The  amount 
of  green  €orn  necessary  to  remove  an  equal  amount  of  fertilizing 
ingredients  per  acre,  taking  the  average  of  the  value  of  the 
nitrogen,  phosphoric  acid  and  potash  ($4.72)  removed  by  an 
acre  of  the  trees  (3  years'  growth),  would  be  4,779  pounds. 

"Silage  corn  raised  in  drills  usually  yields  from  12  to  20  tons 
per  acre,  and  yet  does  not  make  drafts  on  the  land  which  pre- 
clude duplicating  the  yield  the  following  season;  hence  some 
other  cause  than  soil  exhaustion  must  be  found  if  the  failure 
to  grow  a  second  crop  of  nursery  trees  without  intermediate 
crops  is  explained."  These  conclusions  are  supported  in  an- 
alyses made  by  the  New  York  State  Station  (Geneva) . 

All  experience  proves  that  a  crop  of  nursery  trees  does  not 
exhaust  the  land  of  its  fertility.  In  fact,  it  is  generally  con- 
sidered that  land  from  which  trees  have  just  been  removed  is 
in  good  condition  and  heart  for  a  crop  of  beans,  wheat  or 
potatoes.  Yet,  despite  this  fact,  it  is  also  generally  considered 
that  land  can  seldom  raise  two  good  crops  of  nursery  trees  in 
succession.  Land  that  has  been  "treed"  must  be  "rested" 
in  grass  or  some  other  crop.  This  disposition  of  land  to  refuse 
to  grow  two  consecutive  crops  of  good  trees  is  not  an  invariable 
rule,  however.  Nursery  lands  have  produced  good  plum  trees 
for  twenty  consecutive  years.  One  frequently  sees  lands 
yielding  apple  and  cherry  stocks  for  two  or  three  crops  in  suc- 
cession. Plums  seem  to  be  particularly  amenable  to  this 
consecutive  cropping,  and  they  are  benefited  by  applications 
of  stable  manure.  Some  other  species,  as,  for  example,  the 
pear,  do  not  take  so  kindly  to  treatment  with  manure.  Be- 
cause of  this  common  experience  with  indifferent  trees  grown 
on  treed  land,  nurserymen  with  a  large  business  prefer  to  rent 
land  for  the  growing  of  trees. 

The  chief  reason  for  this  condition  of  treed  lands  seems  to 
be  that  the  soil  is  injured  in  its  physical  texture  and  robbed 
of  its  humus  by  the  methods  of  cultivation  and  treatment. 


CERTAIN   ELEMENTS   IN   NURSERY   PRACTICE    177 

The  best  nursery  lands  contain  a  basis  of  clay,  and  these  are 
the  kinds  that  soonest  suffer  under  unwise  treatment.  The 
land  is  kept  under  high  culture,  and  it  is  therefore  deeply  pul- 
verized. There  is  practically  no  herbage  to  protect  it  in 
winter.  When  the  crop  is  removed,  even  the  roots  are  taken 
out  of  the  soil.  The  tree-lifter  or  digger  is  likely  to  be  used 
when  the  land  is  wet  and  easily  injured.  For  four  or  five 
years,  the  land  receives  practically  no  herbage  that  can  rot  and 
pass  into  humus.  The  trees  are  dug  in  the  fall,  often  when 
the  soil  is  in  unfit  condition,  and  this  fall  digging  amounts  to 
a  fall  plowing.  The  soil,  deeply  broken  and  robbed  of  its  humus, 
runs  together  and  cements  itself  before  the  following  summer ; 
and  it  then  requires  three  or  four  years  of  "rest"  in  clover  or 
other  herbage  crop  to  bring  it  back  to  its  rightful  condition. 
This  resting  period  allows  nature  to  replace  the  fiber  in  the  soil, 
and  to  make  it  once  more  so  open  and  warm  and  kindly  that 
plants  can  find  a  congenial  root-hold. 

It  would  seem,  therefore,  that  some  of  this  mechanical  injury 
to  nursery  lands  should  be  prevented  by  the  growing  of  cover- 
crops  between  the  rows  late  in  the  season,  to  be  plowed  under 
the  following  spring.  It  is  well  known  that  the  plowing-in 
of  coarse  manure  between  the  trees  in  fall  or  spring,  for  two  or 
three  years,  will  sometimes  so  greatly  improve  the  land  that  a 
second  good  crop  of  trees  can  be  grown  with  ease.  This  is 
particularly  true  for  plum  trees,  as  already  noted,  but  the 
results  do  not  seem  to  be  so  well  marked  for  pears  and  some 
other  trees.  It  is  probable  that  one  reason  for  the  very  general 
refusal  of  pear  trees  to  follow  pear  trees  is  the  fact  that  they 
are  likely  to  be  grown  on  heavy  clay,  and  this  is  just  the  land 
most  injured  by  nursery  practices.  Some  lands  are  naturally 
so  loose  and  open  in  structure  that  two  or  three  crops  of  trees 
can  be  grown  in  succession  but  these  lands  contain  little  crude 
clay,  and  therefore  do  not  suffer  quickly  from  the  passing  out 
of  the  humus. 

N 


178  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Nurserymen  now  often  grow  a  cover-crop  between  trees  to 
supply  the  needed  humus,  the  various  annual  leguminous  crops 
(as  crimson  clover)  being  preferred,  although  rye  and  buck- 
wheat are  good.  In  regions  where  they  mature,  cowpeas  are 
sown.  On  account  of  the  scarcity  and  cost  of  labor,  nurseries 
are  likely  not  to  be  kept  so  clean  as  formerly  throughout  the 
season,  and  the  weeds  may  add  useful  fiber  to  the  land ;  yet 
weeds  are  not  to  be  recommended  for  this  purpose. 

For  the  resting  period  or  rotation  between  nursery  crops, 
longer-lived  crops  may  be  used.  Kains  suggests  sweet  clover 
as  specially  valuable  (M.  G.  Kains,  ''Plant  Propagation,  Green- 
house and  Nursery  Practice,"  1916),  "  because  this  plant  burrows 
deeply  and  opens  up  the  soil  well  besides  adding  considerable 
humus,  both  by  its  decaying  roots  and  its  tops,  when  these  are 
turned  under.  Perhaps  it  would  reduce  the  resting  period  to 
two  or  three  years,  as  against  three  to  five  or  even  more  under 
common  practice."  Usually  the  nursery  lands  are  rested  in 
red  clover  or  other  meadow  crop ;  and  if  they  can  be  pastured 
before  treed  again,  the  result  is  supposed  to  be  better. 

Although  the  chemical  analyses  of  nursery  trees  show  com- 
paratively small  amounts  of  the  more  important  plant-foods, 
nursery  lands  need  fertilizing.  Nitrogen  is  needed  in  com- 
paratively large  amounts.  It  chiefly  conduces  to  strong 
growth.  It  is  also  augmented  by  the  addition  of  humus  and 
the  improvement  of  the  physical  condition  of  the  soil.  When 
nursery  stock  is  making  a  poor  growth,  the  grower  should 
first  see  that  the  tillage  of  the  soil  is  as  thorough  and  perfect 
as  possible,  to  supply  additional  plant-food  and  to  preserve 
the  soil  moisture.  He  may  then  add  nitrogen  in  the  form  of 
chemicals.  The  application  should  be  made  in  spring  or  early 
summer.  He  should  then  be  sure  that  insect  or  fungous  at- 
tacks are  averted.  If  the  land  was  originally  in  fit  condition 
for  trees,  and  adapted  to  them,  these  suggestions  should  afford 
relief.     More  attention  is  being  given  to  the  complete  fertiliz- 


CERTAIN   ELEMENTS    IN    NURSERY   PRACTICE     179 

ing  of  nursery  lands,  as  other  agricultural  lands  are  supple- 
mented, and  not  to  rely  on  the  effect  of  a  single  ingredient  to 
meet  a  present  difficulty.  This  is  the  rational  procedure. 
Undoubtedly  nursery  lands  will  respond  to  good  rotations, 
careful  working,  and  thoughtful  fertilizer  management  as  readily 
as  other  areas.  The  nursery  practice  has  been  too  much  like 
a  skinning  process.  Some  nurserymen  now  feed  live-stock 
and  use  the  manure  in  preparing  and  supplementing  nursery 
lands. 

Another  difficulty  in  using  nursery  lands  in  succession  is 
the  danger  from  soil  diseases.  The  nurseryman  must  be 
careful  not  to  infect  his  land.  Rotation  seems  yet  to  be  the 
only  remedy,  if  trouble  arises. 

Grades  of  trees 

Common  opinion  demands  that  a  tree,  to  be  first-class, 
must  be  perfectly  straight  and  comely.  This  arbitrary  stand- 
ard is  but  the  expression  of  the  general  demand  for  large  and 
good-looking  trees.  Yet  there  are  some  varieties  of  fruit-trees 
that  cannot  be  made  to  grow  in  a  comely  shape,  and  there  is 
always  a  tendency  to  discontinue  growing  them,  notwith- 
standing the  fact  that  they  may  possess  great  intrinsic  merit. 
All  this  is  to  be  deplored.  The  requirements  of  a  first-class 
tree  should  be  that  the  specimen  is  vigorous,  free  from  disease 
or  blemishes  and  that  it  possess  the  characteristics  of  the 
variety.  This  allows  a  crooked  tree  to  be  first-class  if  it  is  a 
Greening  or  Red  Canada  apple,  because  it  is  the  nature  of  these 
varieties  to  grow  crooked.  Wayward  and  often  scraggly 
growers  among  apples  are  Williams  Early  Red,  Wealthy,  Olden- 
burg, Wagner,  and  others.  A  crooked  or  wayward  grower  is 
not  necessarily  a  weak  tree.  It  is  advisable  to  top-work  weak- 
growing  varieties  on  strong-growing  and  straight-growing  ones 
(See  pages  167-169.) 


180 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


A  first-class  tree  is  well  grown;  that  is,  the  various  opera* 
tions  to  which  it  has  been  subjected  by  the  nurseryman  have 

been  properly  performed ;  the  work- 
manship is  good.  It  must  be  mature, 
that  is,  not  stripped  of  its  leaves  before 
the  foliage  has  ripened.  It  must  be  of 
the  proper  age  for  planting.  It  must  have 
a  clean  smooth  bark,  a  stocky,  strong 
trunk,  good  roots,  and  be  free  of  borers 
and  other  insect  injuries.  The  union  — 
at  the  bud  or  graft  —  must  be  com- 
pletely healed  over  if  sold  at  two  years 
or  above  (peach  trees  are  seldom  healed 
at  the  selling  age) .  Stocky  and  rather 
short  trees,  with  well-branched  heads, 
are  preferable  to  very  tall  ones.  Very 
Fig.  203.     Self-registering  slender  trees,  if  above  one  or  two  years 

tree-caliper.  ^j^^   ^j^^^j^   ^^  avoided. 

Nurserymen  express  the  size  of  a  tree  by  its  diameter  about 
two  inches  above  the  bud  or  crown.  The  measuring  is  made 
with  a  caliper  or  gage  (Figs.  203,  204,  205).  The  diameter  of 
a  first-class  tree  varies  with  the  method  of  growing  and  trim- 
ming it.     In  the  New  York  nurseries,  a  first-class  two-year- 


liiis.  5/i 


Fig.  204.     Heikes'  tree  gage. 

old  apple  tree  (budded)  should  caliper  eleven-sixteenths  inch 
and    upward.       Plums    run    about    the    same.       Pears    run 


CERTAIN   ELEMENTS   IN   NURSERY   PRACTICE    181 


the  same  or  a  sixteenth  of  an  inch  less,  and  sour  cherries 
about  a  sixteenth  more.  Sweet  cherries  will  run  three-fourths 
inch  and  above. 

Fruit-trees  are  usu- 
ally assorted  into  three 
or  four  commercial  grades, 
the  grade  representing 
age,  size,  vigor  and  gen- 
eral excellence.  Small 
and  injured  stock  is  usu- 
ally put  in  the  fourth 
class,  or  treated  as  culls. 

The  size-grades  for 
fruit-trees  are  not  uni- 
form for  the  entire  coun- 
try.   Much  depends  on 

the  length  of  the  growing  ^^^-  ^05.     Another  form  of  tree  gage. 

season  and  the  demands  of  buyers  in  particular  regions.  The 
size  usually  comprises  height  of  tree  and  the  caliper  or  diam- 
eter, although  the  caliper  measurement  may  be  omitted  as 
of  less  importance.  Dealers  often  publish  the  sizes  of  stock 
of  various  kinds  of  fruit  in  the  different  grades.  Following  are 
sizes  in  parts  at  least  of  the  northern  country : 

Apple,  2  and  3  years,  standard.  No.  1,  5-7  ft.,  yf  in.  and  up 

Apple,  2  and  3  years,  standard,  medium,  4-6  ft.,  f-yi  in. 

Apple,  dwarf.  No.  1,  4-6  ft.,  f  in.  and  up 

Apple,  dwarf,  No.  2,  3-4  ft.,  |-|  in. 

Pear,  3  years,  standard,  No.  1,  5-7  ft.,  {i  in.  and  up 

Pear,  3  years,  standard,  medium,  4-6  ft.,  f-yi  in. 

Pear,  2  years,  dwarf.  No.  1,  4-5  ft.,  f  in.  and  up 

Pear,  2  years,  dwarf.  No.  2,  3-4  ft.,  ^-^  in. 

Quince,  2  years.  No.  1,  4-5  ft.,  f  in.  and  up 

Quince,  2  years.  No.  2,  3-4  ft.,  ^-f  in. 

Peach,  1  year.  No.  1,  4-5  ft.,  tw  in-  and  up 


182  THE  NURSERY  MANUAL 

Peach,  1  year,  medium,  3-4  ft.,  -t&~tq  in. 
Plum,  2  years,  No.  1,  5-7  ft.,  xi  in.  and  up 
Plum,  2  years,  medium,  4-6  ft.,  f-H  in- 
Cherry,  sour,  2  years,  No.  1,  4-6  ft.,  H  in-  and  up 
Cherry,  sour,  2  years,  medium,  3-4  ft.,  f-H  in. 
Sweet  cherries  will  run  about  1  ft.  taller. 

Stocks  for  grafted  fruit'trees 

A  fruit-tree  may  be  budded  or  grafted  on  seedling  or  cutting- 
grown  stocks  of  the  same  species  of  plant,  or  on  stocks  of  a 
related  species.  The  practice  is  determined  wholly  by  the 
cheapness  of  the  stock  and  the  ease  with  which  it  can  be  grown 
and  worked,  except  that  in  the  dwarfing  of  trees  a  special 
definite  kind  of  stock  must  be  supplied.  It  does  not  follow  that 
the  stocks  now  commonly  used  are  intrinsically  the  best.  The 
subject  is  much  in  need  of  careful  investigation  not  only  in  the 
nursery  but  throughout  the  lifetime  of  the  resulting  orchards. 

The  choice  of  stocks  has  usually  not  gone  beyond  the 
species,  whether,  for  example,  the  cherry  shall  be  worked  on 
mahaleb  which  is  Prunus  Mahaleh  or  on  the  mazzard  which 
is  Prunm  avium,  whether  cultivated  persimmon  shall  be 
budded  on  Diospyros  Kaki,  or  D.  virginiana  or  D.  Lotus. 
Soon,  however,  we  must  refine  our  processes  much  more  than 
this.  We  exercise  particular  care  in  the  variety  to  be  propa- 
gated for  the  top  or  over-ground  part  of  the  plant.  We  must 
also  discriminate  as  to  the  variety,  rather  than  the  species,  of 
the  stock  or  under-ground  part.  We  shall  find  ways  to 
propagate  varieties  and  strains  of  stocks  as  we  now  have  ways 
to  reproduce  exactly  the  varieties  and  strains  of  the  fruit- 
bearing  or  flower-bearing  part.  This  may  increase  the  expense 
of  the  finished  plant,  but  the  time  is  coming  when  we  must 
reduce  the  sources  of  failure  to  the  minimum  and  be  willing  to 
pay  for  the  extra  certainty.  We  must  foresee  the  time  when 
a  man  may  plant  an  orchard  with  all  human  assurance  of 


CERTAIN   ELEMENTS   IN    NURSERY   PRACTICE     183 

exact  results :  the  character  of  the  stocks  must  be  one  factor 
in  the  program  (page  1G9).  Here  opens  an  important  prospect 
in  nursery  practice. 

The  reader  will  find  the  customary  stocks  mentioned  under 
the  different  entries  in  Part  II  (Nursery-List),  but  it  may  be 
well  to  bring  together  a  brief  statement  at  this  place. 

The  almond  is  worked  on  seedlings  of  almond,  peach,  mjTobalan  plum, 
and  Prunus  Davidiana. 

The  apple  is  grown  on  seedling  stock  of  the  same  species,  Pyrns  Mains. 
It  is  dwarfed  by  working  any  variety  on  the  Paradise  or  Doucin,  which 
are  dwarf  forms  of  the  apple,  grown  from  mound-layers.  The  seedling 
stock  is  grown  extensively  in  Kansas  at  present  and  is  also  imported  from 
France. 

Apricot  is  grown  on  seedlings  of  apricot,  peach,  and  several  kinds  of 
plum. 

Cherries  are  grown  on  mazzard  stocks,  which  is  a  half-wild  form  of  the 
sweet  cherry,  Prunus  avium,  and  on  mahaleb,  which  is  a  distinct  species 
{Prunus  Mahaleb)  that  does  not  produce  edible  fruit.  Sweet  cherries 
are  supposed  to  do  best  on  mazzard  and  sour  cherries  on  mahaleb,  but 
they  are  likely  to  be  worked  rather  indiscriminately. 

Chestnuts,  whether  American,  European  or  Japanese,  are  mostly 
worked  on  native  American  stocks.  Three  species  of  Castanea  are  in- 
volved here. 

Grapes  are  grown  from  cuttings.  In  regions  where  phylloxera  renders 
the  growing  of  the  wine  grape  (Vitis  vinifera)  impossible  on  its  own  roots, 
the  varieties  are  grafted  on  American  stocks,  chiefly  on  V.  indpina  (riparia). 

Orange  is  worked  on  sour  orange  stock,  rough  lemon,  grapefruit  and 
trifoliata,  all  representing  different  species  and  the  trifoliata  now  con- 
sidered to  be  of  a  distinct  genus  (Poncirus). 

Peach  is  budded  on  seedling  peach  stocks,  the  seeds  being  obtained 
mostly  from  run-wild  trees  in  the  southern  states. 

Pear  is  grown  on  seedling  stocks  of  the  same  species  {Pynis  conimuuis) 
imported  from  France ;  also  to  some  extent  on  American-grown  seedlings 
of  Kieffer,  and  on  American-grown  and  imported  stock  of  the  oriental 
sand  pears  (Pyrus  serotina,  P.  ovoidea  and  perhaps  others).  The  pear  is 
dwarfed  by  budding  it  on  Angers  quince,  which  is  mostly  mound-layered. 

Pecan  is  grown  on  seedling  pecan,  and  sometimes  top-woiked  on  estab- 
lished native  trees. 


184  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Persimmon  is  of  two  species,  the  oriental  kaki  {Diospyros  Kaki)  and 
the  native  (D.  virginiana) .  Both  kinds  are  worked  on  native  seedlings, 
although  D.  Lotus  and  one  or  two  other  oriental  species  will  probably  be 
considerably  used  in  the  future  for  the  kaki. 

Plum  is  handled  on  a  variety  of  stocks.  Most  of  the  common  plums 
of  the  European  type  {Primus  domestica)  and  the  Japanese  plums  [P. 
salicina)  are  budded  on  imported  myrobalan  plum  (P.  cerasifera).  Stocks 
of  common  and  Japanese  plums  may  be  used  when  seeds  can  be  had  and 
when  it  pays  to  grow  the  seedlings  in  this  country.  The  American  or 
native  plums  are  worked  mostly  on  seedlings  of  the  native  species,  and 
also  on  Marianna  which  is  sometimes  grown  from  cuttings  (probably  a 
hybrid  of  P.  cerasifera  and  a  native  species). 

Quince.  —  The  large  fruit-bearing  varieties  are  sometimes  worked  on 
imported  Angers  quince,  which  is  propagated  by  mound-layerage.  The 
common  quince  itself  may  be  grown  directly  from  cuttings  and  mound- 
layers. 

Walnut  of  the  Persian  or  so-called  English  type  is  worked  on  native 
walnut  stock.  In  California,  the  native  Jnglans  Hindsii  is  mostly  used; 
Juglans  nigra,  the  black  walnut  of  the  East,  may  also  be  employed. 


The  dwarfing  of  fruit-trees 

The  dwarfing  of  trees  depends  on  two  factors,  —  working 
on  a  slow-growing  stock,  and  subsequent  confining  of  roots 
and  heading-in.  In  particular  cases,  dwarfing  is  accomplished 
by  growing  the  trees  in  pots  or  boxes.  The  nurseryman  sup- 
plies the  first  factor,  —  the  tree  united  to  the  dwarf  root. 
But  this  factor  alone  rarely  insures  a  permanently  dwarf  tree. 
The  vigorous  top  soon  imparts  some  of  its  habit  to  the  stock; 
and  if  the  tree  is  planted  so  deep  that  the  union  is  a  few  inches 
below  ground,  roots  may  start  from  the  cion,  and  the  tree  will 
become  half  dwarf,  or  even  full  standard. 

The  possibility  of  keeping  the  tree  dwarf  lies  mostly  with 
the  grower,  although,  unfortunately,  the  grower  usually  as- 
cribes it  wholly  to  the  nurseryman.  An  excellent  illustration 
of  all  this  is  afforded  by  the  cherry.  If  cherry  trees  are  to  be 
dwarfed,  they  are  worked  on  the  mahaleb  cherry ;  and  yet  the 


CERTAIN   ELEMENTS   IN   NURSERY   PRACTICE    185 

greater  part  of  the  sweet  cherries,  and  some  of  the  sour  ones, 
are  budded  on  mahaleb  roots  in  eastern  nurseries,  but  cherry 
trees  are  not  dwarfs  thereby.  If,  however,  the  grower  were  to 
head-in  his  mahaleb-worked  cherries  each  year,  as  he  is  ad- 
vised to  treat  dwarf  pears,  he  would  be  able  to  have  dwarf 
trees.  In  like  manner,  the  plum  on  the  myrobalan,  the  peach 
on  the  plum,  the  apple  on  the  Doucin  or  even  on  the  Paradise, 
soon  cease  to  be  dwarfs  if  allowed  to  grow  to  their  utmost. 
The  pear  on  the  quince  affords  the  most  complete  dwarf  fruit- 
tree  we  have,  but  even  this  usually  soon  ceases  to  be  a  true 
dwarf  if  heading-in  is  neglected. 

Many  varieties  of  plants  are  dwarf  by  nature,  and  they  there- 
fore do  not  require  to  be  worked  on  slow-growing  stocks.  The 
Paradise  apple  is  itself  such  a  natural  dwarf,  and  was  originally 
a  seedling.  Dwarf  spruces,  pines,  viburnums,  beans,  dahlias 
and  scores  of  other  plants  are  well  known.  Such  dwarfs  are 
generally  propagated  by  means  of  cuttings,  although  some  of 
them,  as  the  garden  vegetables  and  annual  flowers,  reproduce 
themselves  from  seeds. 

With  the  large  areas  devoted  to  fruit-growing  in  North 
America,  the  relatively  low  price  of  land  and  high  cost  of 
labor,  and  the  great  quantities  in  which  fruit  is  desired,  the 
dwarf  tree  is  not  much  in  demand. 

Pedigree  trees 

Formerly  the  wood  for  buds  and  cions  was  taken  more  or 
less  indiscriminately  from  nursery-row  or  other  trees  of  the 
desired  variety.  Now,  however,  bud-wood  or  cion-wood  is 
chosen  with  more  care  from  trees  of  recognized  vigor  and  pro- 
lificacy, and  the  product  is  advertised  as  pedigree  stock.  Of 
course  it  is  not  a  pedigree  product  in  the  sense  in  which  the 
term  is  employed  by  plant-breeders,  for  there  is  no  record  and 
no  line  of  breeding.     It  is  merely  a  form  of  selection. 


186  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

One  never  knows  what  the  so-called  "pedigree"  may  mean 
in  any  case  or  whether  it  is  actually  worth  an  additional  price. 
Yet  the  exercise  of  care  in  any  part  of  the  nursery  operation 
is  commendable  and  ought  to  express  itself  in  the  product. 
There  is  reason  to  think  that  parentage  counts  in  bud-propa- 
gation, although  there  is  not  the  scope  for  variation  and  breed- 
ing that  there  is  in  seed-propagation.  The  bud-selection 
work  of  Shamel  in  oranges  is  significant.  Nurserymen  should 
encourage  a  careful  selection-product. 

Trimming  trees  in  the  nursery 

One  of  the  prime  efforts  of  the  nurseryman  is  to  make  his 
trees  stocky.  Many  factors  conspire  to  produce  this  result. 
Any  treatment  that  makes  trees  grow  vigorously  may  be  ex- 
pected to  contribute  to  their  stockiness,  if  the  grower  does 
not  circumvent  it  by  some  subsequent  operation. 

Fruit-trees  should  be  given  plenty  of  room.  The  rows  in 
the  nursery  should  stand  3^  feet  apart,  for  ordinary  fruit-trees, 
and  the  plants  should  stand  10  inches  or  a  foot  apart  in  the  row. 
The  first  year  the  leaves  should  not  be  rubbed  off  the  bodies 
of  the  trees,  else  the  trees  will  grow  too  much  at  the  top  and 
become  too  slender.  If,  however,  strong  forking  or  side 
branches  appear  low  down  —  as  often  happens  in  sour  cherries 
—  they  should  be  removed.  Budded  or  whole-root  stock  of 
fruit-trees  should  reach  a  height  of  4  feet  or  more  the  first 
year.  The  following  spring,  the  stock  is  headed-in  uniformly, 
reducing  it  to  the  height  of  3  or  4  feet,  according  to  kind  and 
the  uses  for  which  the  stock  is  grown. 

Soon  after  the  trees  are  headed  back  the  second  spring,  they 
are  "sprouted."  This  operation  consists  in  hoeing  the  dirt 
away  from  the  base  of  the  tree  and  cutting  off  all  sprouts  that 
start  from  the  root  or  the  crown.  After  heading-in,  the  tree 
"feathers  out"  from  top  to  bottom.     It  is  a  common  practice 


CERTAIN   ELEMENTS   IN   NURSERY   PRACTICE     187 


to  rub  off  these  new  shoots  that  appear  on  the  body,  allowing 

only  those  shoots  to  remain  that  spring  from  near  the  top  of 

the  trunk,  and  which  are  presumed  to  form  the  top  of  the 

future  tree.     This  rubbing  off  the  side  shoots  early  in  the 

second   season  is  generally   to   be   condemned.     It   tends  to 

make    the    tree     grow     top-heavy, 

whilst  the  body  remains   spindling 

and  weak.      Usually  a  better  plan  is 

to  allow  the  shoots  to  remain  until 

July  or  early  August,  when  they  are 

cut  off    close    to    the   trunk.      The 

wounds  then  heal  over,  or  nearly  so, 

by  fall,  and  the  tree  will  have  grown 

strong  and  stocky. 

The   tendencv    at   present    is    to  ^^°'  206.    Trees  heeled-in.  - 

,,,"„„.  A  single  row  only. 

start  the  heads  of  fruit-trees  much 

lower  than  formerly.     Trees  carried  over  to  two  years  in  the 

nursery  are  usually  not  headed  higher  than  24  to  28  inches. 


The  storing  of  trees 

Trees  are  harvested  mostly  in  autumn.  The  grower  stores 
them  for  easy  access  in  winter  and  spring  and  to  avoid  the 
spring  rush.  The  grower  likes  to  order  his  stock  in  autumn, 
that  he  may  be  sure  of  receiving  it,  have  it  on  hand  when  he 
is  ready  to  plant,  and  get  his  choice  of  varieties  and  grades. 

If  the  purchaser  is  not  ready  to  plant  in  autumn,  he  stores 
the  stock  over  winter  by  heeling  it  in  (Fig.  206) .  When  heeling- 
in  trees  in  the  open  for  the  winter,  care  should  be  exercised  to 
choose  a  well-drained  and  protected  place.  The  roots  are 
placed  in  furrows  and  covered,  and  the  tops  are  laid  down 
almost  horizontal.  Another  row  is  lapped  over  the  first,  much 
as  shingles  are  lapped  over  each  other.  Loose  straw  or  litter 
should  be  removed  or  tramped  down,  else  mice  may  nest  in  it 


188 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


and  girdle  the  trees.  An  excellent  device  to  keep  mice  out  of 
a  heeling-in  yard  is  to  place  a  foot  board  on  edge  all  about  the 
place,  leaning  the  top  out  a  little.     Hold  the  boards  in  place 


"*S?gs-- 


FiG.  207.     Store-house  for  nursery  stock,  partly  beneath  the  surface. 

by  stakes,  close  up  the  cracks  and  tramp  the  earth  against 
the  bottom  of  the  boards,  and  the  mice  are  fenced  out.  If 
it  is  necessary  to  cover  the  tops  of  peach  and  other  tender 
trees,  evergreen  boughs  may  be  found  to  be  a  satisfactory 
protection. 

Within  a  generation,  the  nursery  business  has  been  greatly 
benefited  by  the  free  use  of  cellars  for  the  storing  of  stock.     In 


Fig.  208.     Store-house  or  "  cellar." 


these  cellars  the  stock  is  safe  from  winter  injury,  and  it  can 
be  moved  to  customers  before  the  land  is  fit  to  dig  in  the  spring. 
These   cellars  make  the  nurseryman   somewhat  independent 


CERTAIN   ELEMENTS   IN   NURSERY   PRACTICE    189 

of  conditions  of  weather  and  trade,  and  they  insure  to  the 
planter  quick  delivery  of  stock  that  shows  no  winter  injury. 
A  common  style  of  nursery  cellar  is  shown  in  Fig.  207  and 
another  in  208;  a  combined  storage-  and  packing-house  is 
presented  in  Fig.  209.  The  store-house  is  provided  with  ample 
facilities  for  ventilation,  either  by  means  of  windows  along 
the  sides  or  flues  in  the  roof,  or  both.  It  has  an  earth  floor. 
In  this  building,  the  trees  are  heeled-in  very  thickly  in  the  fall. 
They  either  are  stood  straight  up,  or  they  may  be  piled  in  tiers. 
These  tiers  are  made  up  of  overlapping  horizontal  layers  laid 


Fig.  209.     Combined  storage-  and  packing-house. 

in  opposite  directions.  The  roots  of  the  first  layer  are  laid 
towards  the  center  and  damp  sand  thrown  over  them.  On 
these  are  laid  the  roots  of  the  second  layer,  with  the  tops  in 
the  opposite  direction.  Earth  is  again  thrown  on,  when  another 
layer  like  the  first  is  added.  The  tops,  therefore,  are  always 
outward.  These  tops  should  lie  a  little  higher  than  the  roots, 
and  in  order  to  raise  them,  and  also  to  bind  the  pile,  scantlings 
or  boards  are  often  laid  crosswise  of  the  layers,  at  the  outward 
end,  at  intervals.  Moss  may  be  used  in  place  of  sand,  although 
the  latter  is  more  easily  obtained  and  kept,  and  is  generally 
used.  In  piling  or  cording  trees  in  this  fashion,  it  is  important 
that  a  sufficient  passage  or  alley  be  left  between  each  pile  to 
admit  of  free  circulation  of  air.  A  passage  through  which  a 
man  can  just  pass  is  sufficient.     A  cellar  one  hundred  feet 


190  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

long,  twenty  feet  wide  and  ten  feet  high  in  the  clear,  will  winter 
about  25,000  three-year-old  apple  trees,  if  the  trees  are  corded, 
as  already  described. 

While  ventilation  should  be  provided,  the  house  may  never- 
theless be  kept  close  in  cold  weather.  If  the  temperature  runs 
but  little  above  freezing,  there  is  little  withering  nor  does  mold 
develop.  Some  houses  are  provided  with  refrigeration.  Keep- 
ing houses  too  warm  and  allowing  air  to  blow  through  are 
likely  to  devitalize  the  stock. 

IMPORTANT  DISEASES  AND   INSECTS  AFFECTING  NURSERY  STOCK 

Prepared  for  this  Manual  by  the  late  V.  B.  Stewart,  Bureau  of  Plant 
Industry,  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture,  and  of  Cornell  Uni- 
versity, specialist  in  nursery-stock  diseases.  Fumigation  and  inspection, 
not  dealing  with  the  growing  and  perfecting  of  the  stock,  are  not  treated 
here.  Growers  will  do  well  to  consult  such  works  as  E.  F.  Smith  on 
"Bacterial  Diseases  of  Plants"  (Sanders,  Phila.),  and  the  Rural  Manuals  by 
Hesler  &  \Vhetzel,  Rankin,  Slingerland  &  Crosby. 

The  important  problem  confronting  nurserymen  is  the 
production  of  the  greatest  quantity  of  first-class  stock  to  the 
acre  within  the  shortest  period  of  time.  Such  conditions  as 
weather,  soil,  cultivation,  and  presence  of  certain  destructive 
diseases,  are  some  of  the  factors  that  influence  the  develop- 
ment of  nursery  plantings.  Of  particular  importance  is  the 
effect  of  various  plant  diseases  and  insects.  The  stock  may 
have  developed  very  rapidly  and  be  perfectly  healthy,  when 
within  a  very  short  time  conditions  may  change  and  the  plants 
become  seriously  injured  or  totally  ruined  by  a  destructive 
disease  or  insect. 

The  losses  in  the  nursery  caused  by  diseases  are  often  very 
heavy.  Some  diseases,  such  as  fire-blight,  completely  destroy 
the  stock  attacked  unless  the  disease  is  eradicated  by  cutting 
out  the  affected  parts.  Other  diseases  affect  only  the  foliage 
and  are  a  menace  to  nursery  stock  by  causing  the  leaves  to 


CERTAIN   ELEMENTS   IN   NURSERY    PRACTICE    191 

fall  prematurely,  thus  retarding  the  development  and  growth 
of  the  plants.  Not  only  does  this  condition  make  it  necessary 
for  a  longer  time  to  elapse  before  the  stock  is  salable,  but 
premature  defoliation  also  prevents  proper  maturation  of 
the  trees  and  makes  them  less  able  to  withstand  winter  injury, 
adverse  conditions  encountered  in  storage,  and  the  like. 

Methods  commonly  practiced  for  the  prevention  of  diseases 
of  older  and  maturer  plants  are  in  many  cases  not  appli- 
cable to  the  smaller  stock  in  the  nursery,  while  in  many 
cases  certain  methods  of  control  can  be  employed  in  the 
nursery  which  could  not  be  used  in  the  treatment  of  mature 
plants. 

One  of  the  important  problems  confronting  the  nurseryman 
is  a  satisfactory  means  of  applying  the  various  fungicides  and 
insecticides.  An  apparatus  is  desirable  that  will  apply  the 
material  with  the  least  inconvenience,  permitting  the  work 
to  be  performed  with  considerable  rapidity  on  a  wide  acreage 
and  as  economically  as  possible.  The  materials  may  be  ap- 
plied in  a  powdered  form  with  air  used  as  a  carrier,  or  as  a 
spray  with  water  as  a  carrier. 

For  spraying  nursery  stock,  there  are  numerous  hand- 
sprayers  that  can  be  used  for  small  plantings,  but  there  is  no 
power  machine  on  the  market  that  is  entirely  satisfactory  for 
large  nursery  work.  It  is  difficult  to  build  a  machine  that  can 
be  transported  over  tall  nursery  trees.  On  the  other  hand, 
the  narrow  space  separating  the  nursery  rows  makes  it  diffi- 
cult to  construct  a  sprayer  that  will  run  between  the  rows. 
With  the  sprayers  that  have  been  used,  only  a  relatively  small 
amount  of  stock  can  be  covered  within  a  given  time ;  this  not 
only  increases  the  expense,  but  in  many  cases  it  is  impossible 
to  cover  all  of  the  susceptible  stock  before  it  is  too  late  for 
the  application  to  be  effective. 

Most  of  these  difficulties  are  overcome  when  the  materials 
are  applied  in  the  powdered  form  by  means  of  a  dusting  ma 


192  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

chine.  With  the  dust  method,  the  time  of  application  is  not 
limited  by  soil  conditions,  inasmuch  as  the  lightness  of  the 
outfit  permits  its  transportation  at  all  times;  also  blocks  of 
trees  on  rough  or  hilly  ground  or  in  localities  remote  from  an 
adequate  water  supply  may  be  protected  without  unusual 
difficulty.  The  dusting  method  can  be  employed  in  controlling 
a  large  percentage  of  the  leaf  diseases  and  foliage-eating  insects 
in  the  nursery.  The  cost  of  spraying  solutions  is  less  than 
dust  materials.  The  actual  expense  for  the  dust  method, 
however,  is  practically  the  same  as  for  the  liquid  since  the 
handling  of  a  large  bulk  of  water  is  eliminated,  the  outfit  is 
less  expensive,  and  the  operators  are  fewer  in  number. 

Diseases  caused  hy  fungi  and  bacteria 

The  nursery-stock  diseases  caused  by  fungi  and  bacteria 
are  particularly  baffling  because  the  organisms  are  not  seen 
and  recognized.  In  former  days  these  disorders  were  ascribed 
to  the  weather,  to  electric  currents  and  to  other  little  under- 
stood or  occult  phenomena. 

Fire-blight.  —  The  fire-blight  disease  is  most  destructive 
on  the  cultivated  varieties  of  pear,  apple  and  quince.  Usually 
in  the  nursery  it  means  total  loss  of  the  trees  affected  and  often 
within  a  comparatively  short  time  thousands  of  young  trees 
are  ruined  by  its  rapid  spread  through  the  blocks. 

Description.  —  The  limbs,  blossoms,  twigs  and  fruit  may  be 
attacked.  In  the  nursery  the  disease  is  most  commonly  found 
in  the  twigs  (Fig.  210).  In  the  case  of  two-  and  three-year-old 
quince  stock,  however,  the  trees  often  blossom  profusely  in 
the  spring  and  when  this  happens  blossom-blight  (due  to  the 
same  organism)  frequently  occurs.  The  blight  usually  first 
appears  two  or  three  weeks  after  the  blossoming  period.  The 
first  evidence  of  the  trouble  is  the  brown  and  subsequent 


CERTAIN   ELEMENTS   IN   NURSERY   PRACTICE    193 


blackened  appearance  of  the  young  leaf  tufts  and  the 
blossoms,  from  which  the  disease  extends  rapidly  into  the  fruit- 
spurs. 

The  wilted  and  brown  or  dead  appearance  of  the  stem  and 
foliage  is  the  characteristic  symptom  of  the  disease  in  the 
twigs  (Fig.  210).  There  is  gen- 
erally a  viscid  milk-white  sub- 
stance exuding  in  small  drops 
on  the  surface  of  the  twig  or  the 
petioles,  which  later  becomes  ox- 
idized into  a  dark  brown  gum. 
The  leaves  on  the  affected  twigs 
shrivel  and  turn  brown  or 
black,  and  resemble  foliage  that 
has  been  killed  by  frost. 

The  blight  bacteria  often 
work  down  the  twigs  into  the 
trunk  of  the  tree  and  within  a 
short  time  may  extend  into  the 
roots. 

Cause.  —  Fire-blight  is  a  bac- 
terial disease,  caused  by  Bacillus 
amylovorus.  The  bacteria  live 
over  winter  in  diseased  areas 
in  the  bark,  known  as  cankers. 
In  the  spring,  a  gummy  ex- 
udation laden  with  the  germs  ^"''T   ''^''''  """JTil  a'^'Z 

^        ,      show  the  presence  of  the  disease. 

oozes  from  the  cankers  and  this 

attracts  many  kinds  of  insects,  as  honey-bees,  wasps  and  flies, 
which  carry  the  bacteria  to  the  blossoms.  Other  insects,  as 
the  tarnished  plant-bug,  leaf-hoppers  and  apliids,  also  spread 
the  blight.  While  visiting  blighted  tissues  the  insect  becomes 
smeared  with  the  gummy  exudate  and  carries  the  bacteria  to 
the  tender  twigs.     In  sucking  the  sap  from  the  twigs  the  insect 


Fig.  210.     Fh-e-blight.     The  dead 
shriveled    leaves   above    the   branch 


194  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

punctures  the  tissue  and  thus  furnishes  a  means  of  entrance 
for  blight  germs. 

Fire-bHght  is  frequently  introduced  into  seedling  blocks 
by  the  use  of  diseased  cions  cut  from  blighted  trees.  The 
seedlings  budded  with  the  diseased  buds,  not  only  blight,  but 
the  bacteria  are  carried  on  the  budder's  knives  to  other  seed- 
lings. Later,  at  rebudding  time,  the  budders  being  unfamiliar 
with  the  disease,  frequently  attempt  to  rebud  the  blighted 
stocks;  their  knives  become  infected  and  the  bacteria  are 
transmitted  to  other  seedlings. 

The  shipment  of  cions  from  one  nursery  to  another  may 
also  be  a  means  of  transmitting  the  blight,  and  blight  bacteria 
have  even  been  known  to  live  over  in  cions  used  for  grafting 
purposes.  In  the  winter,  when  the  grafts  were  cut,  the  graft- 
ing knives  became  infected  and  transmitted  the  blight  bacteria 
to  grafts  made  from  healthy  cions. 

Control.  —  The  elimination  of  blight-disseminating  agents 
is  an  important  consideration  in  the  control  of  fire-blight  It 
has  been  demonstrated  that  controlling  the  aphids  is  frequently 
an  essential  step  in  preventing  the  spread  of  blight  bacteria. 

All  sources  of  infection  should  be  destroyed,  such  as  neighbor- 
ing blighted  orchard  trees,  and  an  attempt  made  to  eradicate  all 
traces  of  the  disease  as  soon  as  it  appears  in  the  nursery.  It  has 
proved  profitable  to  remove  the  blossom-buds  on  two-  and  three- 
year-old  quince  trees.  By  removal  of  the  buds  before  they 
open,  the  danger  of  blossom  infection  is  eliminated.  Frequent 
systematic  inspections  should  be  made  and  all  blighted  shoots 
removed  and  the  wounds  disinfected  with  a  solution  of  corro- 
sive sublimate  1  to  1000.  If  the  blight  has  extended  into  the 
trunk,  the  entire  tree  should  be  removed  and  burned. 

Crown-gall.  —  Crown-gall  or  root-gall  is  commonly  found  in 
many  kinds  of  trees  and  other  plants  in  the  nursery.  Fruit- 
trees,  berry  bushes  and  roses  are  frequently  attacked.    The 


CERTAIN   ELEMENTS   IN   NURSERY    PRACTICE    195 


disease  is  of  special  importance  on  the  fruit  seedlings  grown 
in  the  western  states.  Often  a  large  proportion  of  the  seed- 
lings show  galls  when  dug.  This  is  particularly  true  in  case 
of  myrobalan  plum  seedlings. 

Description.  —  The  galls  usually  appear  at  the  crown  of 
the  plant  (Fig.  211),  but  they  are  also  often  scattered  over 
the  root  system  and  may  occur  even 
on  the  parts  aboveground.  Mature 
galls  measure  from  one-half  to  sev- 
eral inches  in  diameter.  They  are 
dark  in  color,  with  a  roughened  sur- 
face. Young  galls  are  small,  greenish 
and  soft  or  even  spongy. 

The  disease  may  exhibit  itself  in 
another  form,  known  as  hairy-root. 
As  the  name  suggests,  there  is  an 
excessive  production  of  small  fibrous 
roots  which  cause  the  hairy  appear- 
ance. 

Cause.  —  The  disease  is  caused  by 
the  bacterial  parasite.  Bacterium 
tumefaciens.  Presumably  the  bac- 
teria hibernate  in  the  soil  and  also 
in  the  old  galls  that  persist  from  year 
to  year.  The  organism  is  able  to 
live  in  dry  soil  for  months.  When 
nursery  stock  is  set  in  infected  soil,  the  bacteria  gain  entrance 
through  wounds,  and  produce  the  galls.  Often  the  disease 
is  spread  by  cuttings  or  grafts  from  diseased  plants. 

Control.  —  But  little  is  known  with  respect  to  the  control 
of  this  disease  in  the  nursery.  Care  should  be  exercised  to 
avoid  the  use  of  diseased  cuttings  or  cions,  especially  since  the 
bacteria  can  be  spread  by  means  of  pruning  and  grafting  tools. 
Newly  planted  grafts  are  often  severely  affected.     The  crown- 


FiG.  211.     Crown-gall. 


196 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


gall  infections  can  be  reduced  by  using  a  root  and  cion  of  ap- 
proximately the  same  size  and  by  wrapping  the  grafts  carefully. 

Apple-  and  Pear-scab. — The  scab  diseases  exist  apparently 
in  every  country  where  apples  and  pears  are  grown  commercially. 

In  the  nursery,  the  pear- 
scab  is  usually  of  impor- 
tance only  on  the  Flemish 
Beauty  buds.  The  apple- 
scab  is  most  destructive 
in  the  nursery  on  the  vari- 
eties Mcintosh,  Tran- 
scendent and  Martha. 
Descripiio7i. — The  leave? 
^'^'  j  and  the  fruit  and  some- 
times the  twigs  are  affected. 
The  disease  appears  on 
the  leaves  as  olivaceous 
to  dark  brown  or  nearly 
black  spots  (Fig.  212). 
There  is  a  tendency  for 
the  lesions  to  extend  along 
the  veins  of  the  leaf,  mak- 
ing them  irregular  in  ap- 
pearance. 

Cause.  —  The  scab 
lesions  are  caused  by  the  fungi  Ventiiria  incequalis  and  Venturia 
pyrina,  which  produce  a  large  number  of  spores  in  the  spots. 
The  spores  are  disseminated  by  wind  and  rain  and  are  respon- 
sible for  the  new  infections  which  occur  throughout  the  summer. 
On  the  diseased  leaves  that  fall  to  the  ground  in  autumn, 
special  fruiting  bodies  (perithecia)  of  the  fungi  are  produced 
and  by  this  means  the  organism  lives  over  winter.  In  spring 
the  perithecia  produce  spores  which  attack  the  new  foliage. 


Fig.  212.     Scab  on  apple  leaves. 


CERTAIN   ELEMENTS   IN   NURSERY    PRACTICE    197 

Control.  —  Spraying  with  lime-sulfur  solution  1  to  40,  or 
dusting  with  90  parts  dry  sulfur  plus  10  parts  powdered  arsenate 
of  lead,  proves  effective  in  the  control  of  apple-  and  pear-scab. 

For  nursery  stock,  the  first  treatment  should  be  made  soon 
after  the  first  new  leaves  appear.  This  application  should  be 
followed  by  at  least  three  more  treatments  at  intervals  of  two 
to  three  weeks. 

As  a  general  recommendation  for  nurseries,  it  is  not  con- 
sidered necessary  to  treat  varieties  of  pear  trees  for  scab  except 
the  Flemish.  In  most  nurseries  it  is  not  necessary  to  treat 
apples  each  year  for  scab,  but  in  some  cases  the  treatment 
proves  profitable.  Where  the  disease  is  commonly  observed 
on  certain  varieties  of  apples,  such  as  Mcintosh  and  Transcend- 
ent crab,  spraying  or  dusting  is  advisable. 

Apple  Potvt)ERY-mildew.  —  This  disease  is  most  commonly 
observed  in  the  nursery  on  the  foliage  and  young  shoots  of  the 
apple  seedling  stock.  When  it  appears  early  in  the  summer, 
the  growth  of  the  seedlings  is  checked  and  the  bark  does  not 
peel  readily  at  budding  time. 

Description.  —  The  disease  appears  as  grayish  white,  felt- 
like areas  on  the  foliage,  varying  in  size  from  a  minute  speck 
to  an  inch  in  diameter.  The  diseased  leaves  are  stunted  and 
have  a  tendency  to  crinkle  and  curl  up.  Affected  shoots  are 
stunted  and  appear  much  shorter  than  healthy  twigs. 

Cause.  —  The  disease  is  caused  by  a  fungus,  Podosphcera 
leucotricha.  The  grayish  patches  of  mildew  on  the  leaf  or  the 
shoot  consist  of  a  tangle  of  fine  threads  or  strands  of  the 
fungus.  This  loosely  interwoven  mass  of  threads  (known  as 
mycelium)  produces  spores  that  are  carried  by  wind  and  rain 
to  other  leaves  where,  they  produce  new  patches  of  mildew 
The  fungus  lives  over  winter  between  the  dormant  bud-scales 
or  by  means  of  special  fruiting  bodies. 

Control.  —  Lime-sulfur  solution   1   to  40  is  effective   to  a 


198  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

certain  degree,  in  controlling  apple  mildew,  but  the  addition 
of  3  pounds  of  iron  sulfate  makes  a  more  effective  mixture. 
Dusting  with  a  mixture  of  90  parts  sulfur  and  10  parts  powdered 
arsenate  of  lead  also  has  proved  satisfactory  in  checking  the 
mildew. 

In  some  seasons  the  mildew  is  more  prevalent  than  in  other 
years,  and  when  the  disease  is  abundant  an  effort  should  be 

made  to  keep  as  much  as  possible  of  the  new 
growth  covered  with  the  fungicide.  The  first 
application  should  be  made  soon  after  the  seed- 
lings have  developed  the  first  new  leaves. 
Three  or  four  subsequent  treatments  should  be 
made  at  intervals  of  two  to  three  weeks. 


Yellow-leaf  Disease  of  Cherry  and  Plum. 
—  The  yellow-leaf  may  be  very  destructive  to 
nursery  trees  when  weather  conditions  are 
tiQ.  213.  Yei-  favorable.  Mazzard  cherry  seedlings  are  ex- 
low-leaf  disease  of  ceedingly  susceptible  and  often  badly  defoli- 
ated. Mahaleb  cherry  seedlings  are  commonly 
affected,  while  myrobalan  plum  seedlings  show  a  considerable 
degree  of  resistance.  The  sweet  and  sour  varieties  of  cherry < 
and  the  European  varieties  of  plum  are  more  susceptible  to  the 
disease  than  the  Japanese  plum  varieties. 

Description.  —  The  disease  appears  on  the  cherry  foliage  as 
dark  red  spots,  that  may  be  abundant  on  the  leaves  (Fig.  213). 
In  the  advanced  stages  of  the  disease,  a  yellowing  of  the  affected 
foliage  may  occur  and  the  leaves  fall  prematurely.  On  the 
plum  foliage  the  disease  is  conspicuous  because  of  the  shot- 
hole  appearance  of  the  leaves  caused  by  the  dropping  out  of 
the  circular  areas  of  affected  tissue. .  The  same  yellowing 
sometimes  appears  on  diseased  plum  leaves  but  never  so  abun- 
dantly as  on  sweet  cherry  foliage. 

Cause.  —  The  yellow-leaf  disease  on  cherry  is  caused  by  the 


CERTAIN   ELEMENTS   IN   NURSERY    PRACTICE    199 

fungus  Coccomyces  hiemalis,  and  a  similar  fungus  causes  the 
yellow-leaf  or  shot-hole  of  plum.  The  fungus  produces  masses 
of  spores  that  appear  as  small,  white,  velvety  pustules  on  the 
undersides  of  the  leaves,  opposite  the  discolored  spots.  These 
spores  are  produced  throughout  the  summer  and  being  carried 
by  wind  and  rain  to  other  leaves  cause  new  infections.  The 
fungus  lives  over  winter  in  the  fallen  leaves  on  the  ground,  and 
in  the  spring  special  fruiting  bodies  (ascocarps)  develop  in 
these  old  leaves.  Spores  discharged  from  the  ascocarps  pro- 
duce the  first  infections  that  appear  on  the  new  foliage. 

Control.  —  Lime-sulfur  solution  1  to  50,  or  a  dust  mixture 
of  95  parts  finely  ground  sulfur  to  5  parts  powdered  lead  arse- 
nate, is  effective  for  the  control  of  the  yellow-leaf  disease. 
The  first  application  should  be  made  when  the  first-year  buds 
are  about  six  to  ten  inches  high.  As  a  rule,  five  to  seven 
applications  at  intervals  of  about  two  weeks  are  sufficient. 
An  attempt  should  be  made  to  keep  as  much  as  possible  of  the 
foliage  protected  throughout  the  summer.  It  is  usually  not 
necessary  to  treat  myrobalan  plum  seedlings  or  the  Japanese 
varieties  of  plums  since  the  yellow-leaf  disease  seldom  causes 
much  damage  on  these  trees. 

Powdery-mildew  of  Cherry.  —  The  mildew  of  cherry  can 
be  recognized  by  the  characteristic  upward  rolling  of  the  foliage, 
accompanied  by  a  shortening  and  an  increased  thickness  of 
the  internodes  of  the  twigs.  The  curled  leaves  are  covered 
on  the  under  surface  with  a  tangle  of  white  felt-like  threads. 
Usually  after  midsummer,  small  black  specks  may  be  observed 
scattered  over  the  surface  of  the  felt-like  mass  on  the  underside 
of  the  leaf.  The  disease  is  the  work  of  the  fungus  Podosphocra 
oxyacanthoo. 

Control.  —  The  treatments  for  the  yellow-leaf  disease  of 
cherry  and  plum  are  also  sufficient  for  the  control  of  the 
mildew. 


200 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


Fig.  214.     Anthracnose  of 
currant. 


Anthracnose    of  Currants    and   Gooseberries.  —  The 
anthracnose  disease  often  causes  heavy  defoliation  of  nursery 

stock  early  in  the  season.  Usually 
the  currants  are  more  severely  affected 
than  the  gooseberries. 

Description.  —  The  disease  appears 
on  the  leaves  as  small  circular  spots, 
dark  brown  in  color  and  about  one 
twenty-fifth  of  an  inch  in  diameter 
(Fig.  214).  Severely  affected  foliage 
soon  turns  yellow  and  falls  prematurely. 
Cause.  —  The  disease  is  caused  by 
the  fungus  Pseudopeziza  ribis.  Spores 
of  the  fungus  are  produced  in  the  spots  on  the  leaves  and 
being  carried  by  wind  and  rain  to  other  leaves  the  spores 
germinate  and  produce  new  infections.  Special  fruiting  bodies 
(apothecia)  of  the  fungus  develop  in  the  diseased  leaves 
which  fall  to  the  ground  and  these  apothecia  serve  to  bridge 
the  fungus  over  winter.  In  the  spring,  spores  are  produced 
which  affect  the  new  foliage. 

Control.  —  Spraying  the  bushes  with 
lime-sulfur  solution  1  to  40,  or  dusting 
with  a  mixture  of  95  parts  finely  ground 
sulfur  to  5  parts  powdered  arsenate  of 
lead,  has  proved  effective  in  controlling 
the  anthracnose.  It  is  advisable  to 
make  the  first  application  when  the 
leaves  are  unfolding  and  other  applica- 
tions at  intervals  of  ten  to  twenty  days 
until  about  five  or  six  treatments  have      ^/^-  f^-    Septoria  leaf- 

spot    of     gooseberry    and 

been  made.  currant. 


Septoria  Leaf-spot  of  Currants  and  Gooseberries.  — 
The  septoria  leaf-spot  occurs  on  various  species  of  Ribes.     It 


^^'' 


^■»{.- 


,«.  •*■ 


•     -1" 


CERTAIN   ELEMENTS   IN   NURSERY   PRACTICE    201 


is  often  the  chief  cause  of  the  dropping  of  currant  leaves  and 
may  be  destructive  also  on  gooseberries. 

Description.  —  The  septoria  leaf-spot  disease  causes  rather 
large  angular  lesions  with  grayish  centers  and  brown  borders. 
Within  the  grayish  center  of  old  spots  may  be  observed  several 
minute  black  specks.  The  spots  may  be  few  or  many  on  the 
leaf;  when  they  are  numerous,  the  leaf  turns  yellow  and  falls 
prematurely  (Figs.  215, 
216).  The  septoria 
leaf-spot  is  distin- 
guished easily  from  the 
anthracnose  disease  by 
the  much  larger  and 
well-defined  lesions, 
with  characteristic 
light-colored  centers. 

Cause.  —  The  dis- 
ease is  caused  by  the 
fungus  Mycosphcerella 
grossularice .  The  mi- 
nute black  specks  in 
the  center  of  the  old  Fig. 
spots  are  fruiting 
bodies  (pycnidia)  of  the  fungus.  The  pycnidia  contain  spores 
which  are  disseminated  by  the  wind  and  rain,  and  are  thus  a 
means  for  further  spread  of  the  fungus.  Falling  on  currant  or 
gooseberry  leaves,  the  spores  germinate  and  produce  new  in- 
fections. The  fungus  lives  over  winter  in  the  old  leaves  on 
the  ground  and  in  the  spring  special  spores  are  produced  that 
attack  the  new  foliage.  As  with  most  leaf-spot  fungi,  heavy 
rains,  followed  by  damp  cloudy  weather,  greatly  augment 
the  spread  of  this  parasite. 

Control.  —  Measures   suitable   for   the   anthracnose   disease 
Qontrol    also    the    septoria    leaf-spot.     The    first   application 


216. 


Septoria    leaf-spot    of    currant 
gooseberry. 


and 


202  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

should  be  made  soon  after  the  new  leaves  are  pushed  forth 
in  the  spring.  Four  or  five  subsequent  applications  should  be 
made  at  intervals  of  ten  to  twenty  days. 

The  Gooseberry  Mildew.  —  The  gooseberry  mildew  is 
often  very  destructive,  and  it  occurs  in  all  parts  of  America 
where  gooseberries  are  grown.  It  is  known  to  affect  currant 
bushes  also.  The  European  varieties  of  gooseberries,  such  as 
Smith  and  Whitesmith,  are  more  susceptible  than  the  American 
varieties.  The  Houghton  is  the  most  susceptible  of  the  Ameri- 
can varieties. 

Description.  —  The  leaves,  the  stems  and  the  fruit  are 
attacked.  In  the  nursery  the  mildew  is  commonly,  observed 
on  the  tips  of  the  young  shoots  as  white  felt-like  spots.  The 
mildew  spots  continue  to  enlarge  and  may  almost  completely 
cover  the  tips,  extending  for  some  distance  down  the  shoots. 
If  the  disease  is  very  severe  the  new  growth  is  destroyed,  and 
the  older  wood  may  be  considerably  injured. 

Cause.  —  The  mildew  is  caused  by  the  fungus  SphcBrotheca 
mors-uvoB.  This  fungus  is  similar  to  the  organism  causing 
the  mildew  on  roses  and  resembles  in  many  respects  the  mildew 
of  apples.  Spores  borne  in  the  white  patches  of  fungus  my- 
celium on  the  shoots  are  a  means  of  further  spreading  of  the 
parasite.  After  midsummer,  specialized  fruiting  bodies  (peri- 
thecia)  are  produced  in  the  old  mycelial  patches  of  mildew  on 
the  twigs,  and  these  fruiting  bodies  carry  the  fungus  over  winter. 

Control.  —  Lime-sulfur  solution  1  to  40,  or  a  dust  mixture 
of  95  parts  sulfur  and  5  parts  lead  arsenate,  is  effective  for 
the  control  of  this  disease.  The  first  treatment  should  be  made 
early  in  the  season  as  soon  as  the  mildew  appears,  and  subse- 
quent applications  should  be  given  according  to  the  prevalence 
of  the  mildew ;  if  very  abundant,  three  or  four  sprayings  at 
intervals  of  eight  to  twelve  days  may  be  necessary  to  protect 
the  developing  shoots. 


CERTAIN   ELEMENTS   IN   NURSERY    PRACTICE    203 


Peach  Leaf-curl.  —  Peach  leaf-curl  is  distinctly  peculiar 
to  the  peach  and  to  forms  derived  from  it,  such  as  the  nectarine. 
In  the  nursery  the  damage  caused  by  the  leaf-curl  is  particularly 
noticeable  from  the  fact  that  the  young  trees  are  affected 
when  in  the  most  critical  stage  of  development,  —  just  as  the 
grafted  buds  start  to  grow  in  the  spring.  A  large  proportion 
of  affected  buds  fail  to  de-  ^^ 

velop  into  first-class  trees. 

Different  varieties  grown 
under  similar  conditions 
show  marked  differences  in 
susceptibility  to  the  disease ; 
however,  there  is  consider- 
able variation  in  the  sus- 
ceptibility of  any  particular 
variety  when  grown  under 
diverse  conditions.  Usually 
the  Carman  and  Elberta 
show  less  resistance  than 
most  varieties. 

Descriptioji.  —  The  first 
evidence  of  the  disease  is  the 
arching  and  reddening  of  the 
affected  areas  in  the  young 
unfolded  leaves  as  they  be- 
gin to  protrude  from  the  opening  bud-scales.  The  lesions  may 
be  confined  to  a  part  of  the  blade  or  the  petiole,  or  they  may 
involve  the  entire  leaf  and  extend  into  the  twig  (Fig.  217). 
The  diseased  parts  are  thick  and  brittle,  causing  a  consider- 
able increase  in  weight  of  the  affected  leaves.  With  the 
maturation  of  the  leaves,  the  pale  yellow  or  red  color  dis- 
appears and  the  hypertrophied  area  on  the  upper  surface 
becomes  silvery  in  appearance.  The  first  leaves  to  expand  are 
usually  the  most  affected,  and  the  curled  leaves  finally  die  and 


Fig.  217.     Leaf-curl  of  peach. 


204  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

drop  from  the  tree.  The  sickly  yellow  curled  foliage  and  the 
distorted  shoots  of  the  young  buds  are  the  striking  characters 
of  this  disease  in  the  nursery.  Also,  the  badly  affected  trees 
are  considerably  shorter  than  the  healthy  stock. 

Cause.  —  The  disease  is  caused  by  the  fungus  parasite 
Exoascus  deformans.  Although  not  definitely  determined,  it 
is  presumed  that  spores  of  some  kind  which  propagate  the  fun- 
gus are  lodged  by  wind  or  rain  among  the  hairs  of  bud-scales 
of  the  host  plant  in  spring,  and  remain  dormant  over  winter. 
In  spring  the  spores  germinate  during  rains,  which  cause  the 
buds  to  swell,  and  the  germ-tube  of  the  spore,  passing  in  be- 
tween the  loosened  bud-scales,  penetrates  and  establishes  the 
parasite  within  the  young  leaf  tissues. 

Control.  —  Bordeaux  mixture  or  lime-sulfur  solution  1  to 
16  is  very  effective  in  the  control  of  peach  leaf-curl.  Only  one 
spraying  is  necessary,  but  it  is  essential  that  this  application 
be  made  before  growth  starts  in  the  spring  and  the  buds  have 
started  to  swell.  Every  bud  must  be  completely  coated  with 
the  fungicide.  It  is  advisable  to  spray  each  year  as  an  in 
surance  against  the  disease.  The  spraying  should  be  done 
as  soon  as  the  peach  stocks  are  "snagged"  and  before  the  rush 
of  spring  work  begins.  If  it  is  desired  to  control  San  Jose 
scale  also,  an  application  of  lime-sulfur  solution  1  to  9  will 
control  both  the  scale  and  the  leaf-curl  disease. 

Leaf-blight  of  Pear  and  Quince.  —  In  the  nursery  the 
leaf-blight  disease  is  usually  found  in  abundance  on  budded 
quince  stock  and  pear  seedlings ;  it  also  occurs  on  Crataegus 
and  apple.  All  standard  varieties  of  quince  and  pear  are 
affected.     Frequently  the  disease  causes  heavy  defoliation. 

Description.  —  The  disease  appears  first  on  the  leaves  as 
small  discolored  areas  on  the  upper  surface.  The  spots  be- 
come carmine-red  in  the  center,  with  dull  borders  and  finally 
penetrate  to  the  lower  surface.     The  color  soon  changes  from 


CERTAIN   ELEMENTS   IN   NURSERY   PRACTICE    205 


red  to  dark  brown,  and  a  minute  slightly  elevated  black  area 
appears  in  the  center  of  the  spot. 

The  spots  are  circular  in  outline  and  may  be  so  numerous 
as  to  involve  most  of  the  leaf  tissue.  When  the  trees  are 
severely  attacked  the  leaves  turn  yellow  or  brown,  especially 
those  of  quince,  and  readily  fall.  The  disease  also  affects  the 
twigs  to  some  extent.  Leaf-blight  may  be  distinguished  from 
the  septoria  leaf-spot  as  the  spots  are  smaller,  more  colored 
when  young,  and  somewhat  more  circular.  The  septoria  spots 
are  apparent  on  the  under  surface  of  the 
leaf.  In  the  nursery,  septoria  spot  is  gen- 
erally found  on  budded  pears,  while  leaf- 
blight  is  commoner  on  quinces  and  pear 
seedlings  (Fig.  218). 

Cause,  —  The  leaf-blight  disease  is 
caused  by  Fahroea  maculata.  The  small 
black  specks  previously  mentioned,  which 
develop  in  the  center  of  the  affected  areas 
of  the  leaf,  are  the  reproductive  bodies 
(acervuli)    of    the    fungus.     Within    the  ^lo.  218.     Leaf-blight 

,  1         1  1  1  •   1  of  quince. 

acervulus  spores  are  developed,  which 
on  being  discharged  are  carried  by  wind  and  rain  to  the 
foliage.  Under  favorable  conditions,  with  the  presence  of 
moisture,  the  spores  germinate  and  produce  new  infections.  In 
this  way  the  fungus  is  propagated  throughout  the  summer. 
Some  of  the  spores  may  live  over  winter  on  the  diseased  twigs 
and  produce  new  infections  when  growth  starts  in  spring; 
but  no  doubt  the  greater  proportion  of  infections  in  early 
spring  is  due  to  the  sexual  stage  (perithecia)  of  the  parasite. 
The  perithecia  develop  on  the  fallen  leaves,  and  the  next 
spring  discharge  many  spores  which  produce  the  first  infec- 
tions of  the  season. 

Control.  —  Spraying  with  lime-sulfur  solution   1   to  40,   or 
dusting  with  a  mixture  of  95  parts  finely  ground  sulfur  and 


206  THE   NURSERY -MANUAL 

5  parts  powdered  lead  arsenate,  will  control  the  disease.  It 
has  been  the  experience  of  the  writer  that,  as  a  rule,  the  treat- 
ment of  pear  buds  for  leaf-blight  is  not  necessary  in  the  nursery. 
For  budded  quince  stock,  the  first  treatment  should  be  made 
soon  after  the  first  leaves  are  developed  or  when  the  young  bud- 
shoots  are  from  eight  to  ten  inches  high.  Subsequent  treat- 
ments should  follow  at  intervals  of  about  two  weeks  until 
five  or  six  applications  have  been  made. 

Septoria  Leaf-spot  of  the  Pear.  —  The  leaf-spot  of  pear 
is  confined  to  the  foliage,  and  in  the  nursery  the  budded  stock 
is  most  susceptible. 

Description.  —  The  spots  on  the  leaves  are  angular  in  shape ; 
the  outer  part  of  the  affected  area  is  brown  or  black  in  color, 
while  the  well-differentiated  center  is  light  gray,  with  six  to 
twelve  minute  black  specks  which  are  especially  apparent  in 
old  lesions.     The  grayish  center  is  somewhat  transparent. 

Cause.  —  The  disease  is  caused  by  the  fungus  Mycosphwrella 
sentina.  The  black  specks  (pycnidia)  in  the  center  of  the  spot 
contain  spores  that  escape  and  throughout  the  summer  spread 
the  disease.  The  fungus  lives  over  winter  in  the  diseased 
leaves  on  the  ground. 

Control.  —  The  treatment  recommended  for  the  control  of 
the  leaf-blight  of  quince  and  pear  is  also  effective  for  the  con- 
trol of  the  septoria  leaf-spot. 

Easpberry  Yellows.  —  This  disease  is  usually  found  only 
on  red  raspberries.  The  black-caps  and  purple  varieties  are 
seldom  affected.  Diseased  plants  are  stunted,  sickly  and 
make  a  bushy  growth.  The  leaves  are  abnormally  small  and 
the  margins  of  the  upper  leaves  curl  downward.  One  of  the 
striking  symptoms  of  the  disease  is  the  mottled  appearance 
of  the  foliage ;  at  first  it  is  light  colored,  then  gradually  changes 
to  darker  green  and  finally  is  reddish  bronze. 


CERTAIN   ELEMENTS   IN   NURSERY   PRACTICE    207 

As  yet  the  causal  nature  of  raspberry  yellows  is  unknown 
and  no  satisfactory  method  of  controlling  the  disease  has  been 
perfected. 

Raspberry  and  Bl.\ckberry  Anthracnose.  —  The  anthrac- 
nose  disease  is  more  common  on  the  raspberry  than  on  the 
blackberry.  In  general,  black  raspberries  are 
more  susceptible  than  the  red  varieties. 

Description.  —  All  parts  of  the  plant  above 
ground  are  alYected,  but  the  disease  causes  the 
greatest  damage  on  the  canes  (Fig.  219).  The 
spots  on  the  canes  are  elliptical,  purplish  in  color 
with  a  grayish  white  center.  The  purplish  margin 
is  slightly  raised  and  thus  the  healthy  and  dis- 
eased tissues  are  sharply  separated.  In  advanced 
stages  the  spots  coalesce  and  the  cones  appear 
blotched.  The  disease  is  caused  by  the  fungus 
Plectodiscella  verieta. 

Control.  —  In  controlling  the  anthracnose  dis-  Anthracnose 
ease,  it  is  advisable  to  set  only  clean  anthrac-  ^^^^^^  ^^  ^' 
nose-free  plants.  Spraying  with  bordeaux  mixture  4-4-50 
also  tends  to  keep  the  disease  in  check.  The  first  treatment 
should  be  made  soon  after  the  new  leaves  appear  in  the 
spring  and  three  or  four  subsequent  applications  should  follow 
at  intervals  of  about  two  weeks. 

Black-spot  of  Roses.  —  The  disease  known  as  black-spot, 
leaf-blotch  or  leaf-spot  is  one  of  the  most  destructive  diseases 
on  roses.  In  nurseries  the  rose  plants  severely  affected  become 
defoliated  in  summer,  in  many  cases  causing  the  leaf-buds, 
which  should  remain  dormant  until  the  following  year,  to 
open  late  in  the  season. 

Description.  —  The  symptoms  of  the  disease  are  black  soot- 
like blotches  on  the  upper  surface  of  the  leaves  (Fig.  220) 


208 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


The  spots  are  first  small,  but  they  increase  in  size  to  a  half 
inch  in  diameter.  Often  a  number  of  spots  coalesce  involving 
a  considerable  part  of  the  leaf  tissue.  A  very  marked  char- 
acter is  the  fringed  border  of  the  spots.  Severely  affected 
leaves  usually  turn  yellow  and  fall  prematurely. 

Cause.  —  The  cause  of  the  disease  is  the  fungus  Diplocarpcm 
roscB,     Spores  of  the  fungus  which  are  borne  in  the  black  spots 

on  the  leaves  are  disseminated 
by  wind  and  rain  to  new  fo- 
liage where  they  produce 
new  infections.  Special  fruit- 
ing bodies  which  develop  in 
the  diseased  leaves  that  fall 
to  the  ground  carry  the  fungus 
over  winter. 

Control.  —  Bordeaux  mix- 
ture, or  a  dust  mixture  con- 
sisting of  95  parts  finely 
ground  sulfur  and  5  parts 
powdered  lead  arsenate,  will 
control  the  black-spot  dis- 
ease. The  first  application 
should  be  made  in  early  sum- 
mer, soon  after  the  first  new 
leaves  are  developed.  Four  or  five  subsequent  treatments 
should  be  made  at  intervals  of  about  two  weeks. 


Fig.  220.     Black-spot  of  rose. 


Mildew  of  Rose  and  Peach.  —  Mildew  is  found  on  both 
the  peach  and  the  rose,  but  it  is  commoner  on  the  latter.  As 
a  rule,  peach  mildew  is  of  little  importance  in  the  nursery,  but 
rose  mildew  often  causes  considerable  damage.  The  disease 
on  roses  checks  the  growth  of  the  plants  in  the  field,  and  some 
growers  are  of  the  opinion  that  severely  mildewed  rose  stock 
does  not  keep  well  in  storage.    The  affected  shoots  tend  to 


CERTAIN   ELEMENTS   IN   NURSERY   PRACTICE    209 

decay  when  subjected  to  the  moist  condition  of  the  storage 
cellar. 

Description.  —  The  leaves,  the  blossom  buds  and  the  young 
shoots  of  roses  are  affected  by  mildew.  The  disease  appears 
as  white  irregular  blotches,  causing  the  leaves  to  become  curled 
and  dry.  The  bark  of  severely  affected  shoots  becomes  dead 
in  appearance  and  shrivels,  causing  an  arching  or  a  curving 
of  the  shoots  at  the  tip.  Only  the  current  year's  growth  is 
affected. 

Cause.  —  The  fungus  SphcBrotheca  pannosa  is  the  cause  of 
the  mildew  on  peach  and  rose  stock.  Spores  of  the  fungus  are 
produced  in  the  white  blotches  of  mildew  and  these  propagate 
the  parasite  throughout  the  summer.  After  midsummer  the 
special  fruiting  bodies  known  as  perithecia  also  may  be  pro- 
duced and  these  serve  to  carry  the  fungus  over  winter. 

Control.  —  Most  copper  sprays  have  not  proved  effective  in 
controlling  this  disease.  A  sulfur  dust-mixture  is  more  effective 
than  bordeaux  mixture  or  lime-sulfur  solution.  Applications 
of  a  dust  mixture  employed  in  the  control  of  the  black-spot  of 
roses  will  also  prove  effective  in  checking  the  mildew. 

Insect  pests  of  nursery  stock 

The  insect  depredations  in  the  nursery  are  probably  better 
known  as  to  kinds  and  causes  than  the  diseases,  yet  some  of 
them  are  difficult  of  control.  The  treatment  for  diseases  and 
pests  is  often  much  the  same,  if  not  even  identical,  and  there- 
fore the  two  should  be  understood  together. 

Plant-lice  or  Aphids.  —  There  are  numerous  species  of 
sucking  insects,  known  as  aphids,  infesting  various  kinds  of 
nursery  stock,  as  apple,  quince,  rose,  cherry  and  certain  orna- 
mentals (Fig.  221).  The  plants  are  frequently  seriously  in- 
jured, the  leaves  being  badly  curled  and  the  growth  checked. 


210 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


Often  the  aphids  secrete  a  sweet  liquid  known  as  honey-dew  in 
which  a  black  fungus  develops  and  gives  the  infested  foliage 

and  twigs  a  sooty  appearance.  The 
green  colored  species  {Aphis  yomi  and 
Aphis  sorbi)  are  commonly  found  on  apple 
and  quince,  while  cherry  buds  are  often 
attacked  by  a  black-colored  species  {Myzus 
cerasi) . 

Cmitrol.  —  The  aphids  lay  small  shiny 
black  eggs  on  the  twigs  in  autumn. 
Spraying  in  October  with  tobacco  extract, 
f  of  a  pint  in  100  gallons  of  water,  adding 
3  pounds  of  soap  to  each  100  gallons  to 
make  the  liquid  spread  better,  w411  kill 
many  of  the  aphids  before  the  eggs  are 
laid.  Aphid  infestations  can  be  greatl}^ 
reduced  by  spraying  with  the  above  solu- 
tion just  after  the  eggs  hatch  in  the  spring  ; 
ing  on  an  opening  apple  the  first   eggs  hatch  about  the  time  the 

buds  show  green.  When  the  aphids  appear 
in  abundance,  it  is  advisable  to  dip  the  infested  branches  into 
the  insecticide.  The  leaves  are  usually  curled  and  it  is  difficult 
to  hit  many  of  the  aphids  by  spraying.  Infestations  of  aphids 
on  apple,  pear  and  quince  stock  should  receive  immediate 
attention  as  often  as  these  insects  are  important  in  the  dis- 
semination of  fire-blight  bacteria. 


Fig.    221.       Newly 
hatched  aphids  cluster- 


WooLLY  Aphis. — The  woolly  aphis  on  apple,  pear  and  quince, 
is  common  in  the  nursery. 

The  reddish-brown  aphids  appear  on  the  trunk  and  branches 
and  roots  as  bluish-white  cottony  patches.  The  same  species 
also  passes  a  part  of  its  life  history  on  the  elm,  infesting  the 
leaves  and  causing  them  to  curl.  The  woolly  aphis  sucks  its 
food  from  the  bark  and  often  causes  abnormal  growth  or  galls. 


CERTAIN   ELEMENTS   IN    NURSERY    PRACTICE    211 

The  nodular  swellings  or  aphis  galls  are  especially  common 
on  the  roots  of  nursery  stock.  The  woolly  aphis  is  known  to 
entomologists  as  Schizoneura  lanigera. 

Control.  —  The  woolly  aphis  appears  first  in  summer  on  the 
trunk  and  branches  aboveground  and  it  can  then  be  readily 
controlled  by  drenching  the  woolly  colonies  with  15  per  cent 
kerosene  emulsion.  The  treatment  should  be  made  as  soon 
as  the  aphids  appear,  and  this  will  prevent  many  of  them  from 
migrating  to  the  roots. 


Red-spider.  —  The  minute  spider-like,  oval-shaped,  reddish 
mites  are  about  5V  inch  in  length.  They  are  usually  found  on 
the  underside  of  the  leaves  where  they  live  under  the  pro- 
tection of  a  delicate  silken  web.  In 
feeding,  they  suck  the  sap  and  cause  the 
foliage  to  turn  yellowish  in  spots.  Con- 
siderable injury  may  result  from  the 
attacks  of  these  mites,  especially  in  the 
western  orchard  and  nursery  sections 
of  Canada  and  United  States.  The 
foliage  of  peach,  prune,  plum,  apple, 
cherry,  pear,  almond,  raspberry,  rose 
and  many  forest  trees  is  attacked. 
Two  species  are  involved,  Tetranychus 
himaculatus  and  the  clover  mite,  Bryohia 
prate7isis. 

Control  —  The  clover  mite  (Fig.  222) 
lays  eggs  in  autumn  on  the  trunk  and 
branches  and  the  eggs  hatch  early  in 
the  spring.  Spraying  the  hibernating 
eggs  while  the  trees  are  dormant  with 
lime-sulfur  solution  1  to  9  will  j)rove 
effective.  The  red-spider  (Tetranychus)  hibernates  through- 
out the  winter  in  the  ground  and  crawls  back  to  the  foliage  in 


Fig.  222.  Tho  clover 
mite.  Redrawn  after  M. 
A.  Palmer  (z  37). 


212  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

the  spring.     Dusting  the  foliage  with  sulfur  will  kill  the  red- 
spider. 

Pear  Psylla.  —  The  pear  psylla  (Psylla  pyricola)  is  a  minute 
yellowish  flat-bodied  sucking  insect  that  occasionally  attacks 

the  foliage  of  nursery  pear  trees  early  in 
the  season.  The  psyllas  develop  into  minute 
cicada-like  jumping  lice.  The  young  psyllas 
secrete  a  sweet  sticky  honey  dew  in  which 
a  peculiar  black  fungus  grows,  giving  the  foli- 
age a  sooty  appearance.  There  may  be  four 
broods  annuallv. 

Control.  —  Spray  for  the  adult  psyllas,  dur- 
nished  plant-bug^'  ^^S  warm  periods  in  December  or  ]\Iarch,  with 

tobacco  extract,  f  of  a  pint  in  100  gallons  of 
water,  with  5  pounds  fish-oil  soap  added.  Good  results  have 
been  obtained  by  making  an  application  of  lime-sulfur  solution 
1  to  8  just  after  the  leaf-buds  open  in  the  spring.  If  the  psyllas 
appear  on  the  new  foliage,  make  another  treatment  with  the 
tobacco  and  soap  solution. 

Tarnished  Plant-bug.  —  This  sucking  bug  (Fig.  223) 
attacks  many  species  of  plants.  In  feeding,  it  punctures  the 
buds  and  tender  growing  tips  and  sucks  the  juices.  Peach 
nursery  stock  is  often  seriously  injured.  The  bugs  kill  the 
tender  tips,  causing  the  tree  to  throw  out  lateral  branches 
which  are  in  turn  similarly  injured,  causing  an  overbranched 
stunted  tree.  Pear  and  apple  stock  are  often  attacked  but 
seem  able  to  outgrow  the  injury  more  easily  than  peach  trees. 
This  insect  is  of  great  importance  in  spreading  the  fire-blight 
bacteria  in  apple,  pear  and  quince  trees.  The  adult  tarnished 
plant-bug  is  about  ^  inch  in  length  and  colored  a  dull  yellowish 
or  greenish,  mottled  with  reddish  brown.  The  species  is  Lygus 
pratensis. 


CERTAIN  ELEMENTS  IN   NURSERY   PRACTICE     213 

Control.  —  The  control  of  the  tarnished  plant-bug  in  the 
nursery  is  still  an  unsolved  problem. 

Apple  Leaf-hopper.  —  The  leaf-hopper  (Empoasca  mali) 
may  attack  the  foliage  of  apple,  currant,  rose,  gooseberry, 
raspberry  and  numerous  other  plants.  These  insects  (Fig.  224) 
suck  the  juice  from  the  leaves,  causing  them  to  curl  and  to 
assume  a  mottled  yellowish  appearance.  The  insects  work 
mostly  on  the  undersides  of  the  leaves.  Feeding  on  the  terminal 
leaves  of  the  growing  shoots  in  the  latter  part  of  June,  July  and 
August,  they  may  retard  the  growth  and  thus  cause  such  trees 
as  apples  to  be  stunted  and  undersized. 

Control.  —  It  is  difficult  to  hit  the  young  hoppers  in  the 
curled  leaves  by  spraying  and  this  method  of  treatment  is  not 
profitable.  Dipping  badly  infested  stock  with  a  soap  solution, 
one  pound  in  8  gallons  of  water,  kills  most  of  the  young  hoppers. 
The  dipping  should  be  done  in  the  latter  part  of  June  and  again 
about  a  month  later.  In  Missouri  nurseries  the  hoppers  are 
sometimes  captured  on  sticky  shields  mounted 
on  a  two- wheeled  cart  drawn  by  a  horse. 

San  Jose  Scale.  —  The  San  Jose  scale 
{Aspidiotus  perniciosus)  attacks  practically 
all  deciduous  fruit  and  ornamental  plants  and 
is  often  very  destructive  in  the  nursery. 
The  insect  may  be  recognized  by  two  forms 
of  scales  on  the  bark  and  fruit  (Fig.  225). 
The  largest  scales  are  about  y^  of  an  inch  in  p^^  ^4  T^jg 
diameter,  nearly  circular,  gray,  with  a  central  apple  leaf-hopper, 
dark  nipple  surrounded  by  a  yellowish  ring. 
The  smaller  scales  are  nearly  black  with  a  central  gray  dot 
surrounded  by  a  black  depressed  ring  bordered  by  a  grayish 
ring.  Usually  the  bark  appears  reddish  in  color  around  the 
scale.     When  abundant  the  scale  forms  a  crust  on  the  bark. 


214 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


The    scale   multiplies   with   marvelous   rapidity,    there   being 
three  or  four  broods  annually,  and   each  mother  scale  may 

give  birth  to  several  hundred 
young.  The  young  are  born 
alive  and  breeding  continues  until 
late  autumn.  The  small  half- 
grown  black  scales  are  resistant 
to  cold  weather  and  many  of 
them  hibernate  safely. 

Control.  —  San  Jose  scale  can 
be  controlled  by  spraying  with 
lime-sulfur  solution  1  to  8  in  the 
autumn  or  spring  while  the  plants 
are  dormant.  Cions  or  cuttings 
received  b^^  nursery-men  from 
another  locality  should  be  fumi- 
gated with  hydrocyanic  gas  before 
they  are  used  in  order  to  prevent 
Fig.  225.    San  Jose  scale.         the  introduction  of  the  scale. 


The  Pear  Slug.  —  This  insect  {Eriocampoides  limacina) 
attacks  the  foliage  of  pear,  cherry,  quince  and  plum.  In  the 
North  the  small  oval  eggs  appear  on  the  foliage  as  blisters 
about  the  middle  of  May.  About  two  weeks  later  the  eggs 
hatch  and  the  dark  green  larvae  appear  on  the  upper  side  of 
the  leaf.  The  larvae  are  covered  with  a  sticky  slime  and  have 
the  appearance  of  small  snails.  The  body  is  swollen  in  front 
and  tapers  behind  like  a  tadpole  (Fig.  226).  There  may  be 
two  or  three  broods  in  the  summer. 

The  larvae  feed  on  the  upper  surface  of  the  leaves,  eating 
only  the  epidermis  and  leaving  the  skeleton  of  veins  and  the 
lower  epidermis  to  turn  brown  and  wither.  Badly  injured 
leaves  fall  and  trees  in  the  nursery  may  be  entirely  defoliated 
by  midsummer. 


CERTAIN  ELEMENTS  IN  NURSERY   PRACTICE     215 

Control.  —  An  application  of  freshly  slaked  lime  or  powdered 
arsenate  of  lead  will  destroy  the  slugs.  The  dust  mixtures 
employed  in  the  control  of  pear  leaf-spot  or  yellow-leaf  of  cherry 
will  also  kill  them. 

Currant  Worms.  —  The  green  currant  worm  {Gyvmonychus 
appendiculatus)  and  the  imported  currant  worm  {Pteronus 
rihesii)  are  often  destructive  on  currant  and 
gooseberry  bushes.  These  worms  appear  on 
the  bushes  two  or  three  weeks  after  the  leaves 
develop  in  the  spring,  and  if  numerous  they 
are  able  to  strip  a  bush  of  its  leaves  within  a 
few  days. 

The  imported  worm  is  about  f  inch  in 
length,  green  in  color  with  black  spots.  The 
green  worm  is  smaller,  has  a  blackish  head 
but  lacks  the  black  spots.  There  may  be 
three  or  more  broods  of  the  green  worm  during  Fig.    226.      Pear 

,1  slugs  at  work. 

the  summer. 

Control.  —  Applications  of  a  dust  mixture  or  a  spray  solu- 
tion containing  arsenate  of  lead  will  check  these  insects.  The 
treatment  recommended  for  the  leaf-spot  diseases  on  currant 
will  also  control  the  worms  if  lead  arsenate  is  added  to  the 
fungicide. 


PART  II 

THE    NURSERY-LIST 


THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 


THE  NURSERY-LIST 

This  List  has  been  re-compiled  for  the  twenty-second  edition. 
The  Editor  has  had  the  advantage  of  many  expert  advisers.  The 
List  has  been  gone  over  carefully  by  Robert  Cameron,  Botanic 
Garden,  Harvard  University;  W.  H.  Judd,  propagator  for  the 
Arnold  Arboretum,  Harvard  University;  J.  Jennings,  Bobbink 
and  Atkins  Nurseries,  Rutherford,  N.  J. ;  G.  W.  Oliver,  United 
States  Department  of  Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C.  Special 
parts  have  been  submitted  to  experts  in  many  places,  from  Ontario 
to  Florida  and  California.  Extra  care  has  been  taken  to  make  all 
the  statements  in  the  book  authentic,  but  the  practitioner  assumes 
his  own  risk  in  making  applications. 

The  printed  word  can  never  take  the  place  of  experience  in  the 
propagation  of  plants ;  yet  the  experienced  man  will  probably 
find  a  List  of  this  kind  of  more  value  than  the  novice,  for  he  will 
know  what  the  suggestions  mean.  It  is  hoped,  however,  that  the 
novice  will  find  the  List  useful  in  aiding  him  to  acquire  experience. 

The  family  to  which  a  plant  belongs  often  gives  a  clue  to  the  prop- 
agation :  therefore  the  name  of  the  family  is  given  after  each 
regular  entry.  The  attention  of  the  consultant  is  called  to  certain 
important  group  or  class  entries,  as  Orchids,  Ferns,  Palms,  Eri- 
caceae or  Heaths,  Liliaceae,  Bromeliacese,  Amaryllidacese,  Araceae, 
Conifers,  Cacti,  Annuals,  Biennials,  Perennials. 

The  consultant  should  remember  that  this  List  deals  only  with 
propagation,  not  with  cultivation,  transplanting,  pruning,  breeding, 
or  subsequent  care. 

Abelia.     CaprifoliaceoB. 

Propagated  in  spring  by  layers,  and  in  summer  and  early  autumn 
by  cuttings ;  seeds  in  spring,  when  obtainable. 

Abies  (Fir).     Pinacece. 

Extensively  propagated  by  seeds,  which  are  usually  kept  dry 
over  winter  and  sown  in  spring  in  frames  or  in  protected  borders. 

219 


220  THE  NURSERY-MANUAL 

Cones  should  be  matured  fully  before  being  gathered.  If  th 
hold  the  seeds  tightly,  they  should  be  placed  in  a  dry  place,  son: 
times  even  in  an  oven,  until  the  scales  spread.  In  some  speci< 
as  the  balsam  fir,  the  cones  drop  and  fall  to  pieces  as  soon  as  rij 
and  these  cones  must  be  gathered  just  before  they  begin  to  fa 
The  seeds  may  be  separated  by  rubbing  them  in  the  hands,  wh 
they  are  thoroughly  dry,  then  winnowing  them  out  through 
sieve.  To  obtain  stocky  plants,  the  seedlings  should  be  trar 
planted  the  following  spring. 

The  named  varieties  and  the  species  which  do  not  produce  si 
ficient  seed  are  winter-worked  on  seedling  stocks  which  are  pott 
in  the  fall.  Cuttings  of  growing  tips  set  in  sand  in  a  close  we 
shaded  house  or  frame  are  often  successful.  Stocks  the  size  of 
lead  pencil  are  commonly  used.  One-year-old  seedlings  are  us 
ally  preferred,  but  in  some  cases  the  requisite  size  is  not  reach 
until  the  second  or  third  year.  Any  of  the  common  operatio 
of  grafting  may  be  employed,  but  the  veneer-graft  is  best.  T 
conifers  are  not  difficult  to  graft.  The  European  silver  fir  {Ab\ 
Picea  or  pedinata)  or  the  balsam  fir  may  be  used  as  a  stock,  b 
the  common  Norway  spruce  is  now  the  most  popular  stock  i 
species  of  both  Abies  and  Picea  (see  Picea). 

Abobra.     Cucurhitacece. 

Readily  propagated  by  seeds ;  also  by  softwood  cuttings. 

Abronia  (Sand  Verbena).     Nydaginacem. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  autumn  or  spring.  Sometin: 
sown  in  pots  of  sandy  soil,  and  kept  in  a  frame  till  the  followi 
spring,  then  placed  in  their  flowering  quarters.  Also  increas 
by  young  cuttings,  set  in  spring,  in  sandy  soil.  Spring  sowing 
the  open  is  a  common  method  in  this  country.  The  outer  cov< 
ings  of  the  seed  should  be  removed. 

Abrus.     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  more  quickly  by  soaking;  also  by  c\ 
tings  under  glass  in  sand. 

AbutUon  (Flowering  Maple).     Malvaceae, 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  cuttings.  Sow  seeds  in  pans,  with  sai 
soil  and  temperature  as  for  cuttings ;  if  planted  in  March,  blooi 
ing  plants  should  be  secured  by  autumn.  Cuttings  may  be  tak 
from  young  wood,  at  almost  any  season;  the  best  time  is  spri 


THE  NURSERY-LIST  221 

or  fall.     The  cuttings  may  be  struck  in  a  bench  or  in  pots,  in  a 
temperature  of  65°  to  75°. 

Acacia.     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  as  soon  as  ripe.  Soak  in  warm  water  twenty- 
four  hours  if  seeds  are  not  fresh.  Keep  temperature  about  55° 
or  60°,  and  pot  off  when  large  enough  to  handle.  Also  increased  by 
cuttings  of  the  half-ripened  wood  in  a  propagating-frame  or  on  a 
bench.  A.  pubescens  is  grafted  on  seedlings  of  A.  longifolia, 
A.  Bailey  ana  or  A.  melanoxylon ,  this  and  some  others  strike  from 
root-cuttings.     See  also  Rohinia. 

Acalypha.     EuphorbiaceoB. 

Readily  multiplied  by  cuttings  struck  in  mild  bottom  heat. 
Best  results  are  to  be  expected  from  cuttings  of  well-ripened  wood 
taken  with  a  heel.  Old  stock  plants,  kept  over  winter  for  the  pur- 
pose, usually  yield  best  cutting  material ;  but  cuttings  may  be 
taken  directly  from  plants  that  may  have  been  bedded  in  the 
open,  or  from  cut-back  fall-lifted  plants.  Propagation  may  be 
undertaken  in  autumn  or  spring. 

Acanthopanax.     AraliacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  immediately  or  stratified  and  sown 
in  spring ;  also  b}'  root-cuttings  with  bottom  heat  and  by  soft- 
wood cuttings  taken  from  forced  plants. 

Acanthophcenix.     Palmaceoe. 

Handled  by  seeds,  sown  in  bottom  heat,  in  a  well-rotted  com- 
post.    See  Palms,  page  377. 

Acanthorhiza.     Palmaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  preferably  in  spring,  in  fresh  peat 
over  bottom  heat.     See  Palms,  page  377. 

Acanthus  (Bear's  Breech).     Acanthaceoe. 

Increased  by  seeds  in  mild  heat,  and  by  division  in  autumn  or 
early  spring.     Also  increased  by  root-cuttings. 

Acer  (Maple).     Aceraceoe. 

Stocks  are  grown  from  stratified  seeds,  which  should  be  sown 
an  inch  or  two  deep.  Some  very  early-ripening  species,  as  A. 
saccharinum  and  A.  rubrum  (the  silver  or  soft  maple  and  the  red 
maple)  come  readily  if  seeds  are  simply  sown  as  soon  as  ripe ; 
they  will  not  keep  well  until  the  next  spring.     Varieties  are  often 


222  THE  NURSERY-MANUAL 

layered,  but  better  plants  are  obtained  by  grafting.  The  Japanese 
sorts  are  winter-worked  on  imported  A.  palmatum  {A.  poly- 
morphum)  stocks,  either  by  whip-  or  veneer-grafting.  Varieties  of 
native  species  are  worked  on  common  native  stocks.  Maples  can 
also  be  budded  in  summer,  and  they  grow  (usually  with  some  diffi- 
culty) from  cuttings  of  soft  and  ripe  wood.  Seeds  usually  grow 
freely  if  properly  handled.  Box  elder  {A.  Negundo)  grows  readily 
from  fresh  seeds. 

Achillea  (Yarrow.     Milfoil).     CompositoB. 

Multiplied  mostly  in  spring.  Dividing  the  clumps  or  stools 
is  the  common  method.    Also  by  seeds,  root-divisions  and  cuttings. 

Achimenes.     GesneriacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  with  care  (as  the  seeds  are  minute)  in 
well-drained  pans,  watered  with  a  fine  rose.  Cover  lightly,  or  not  at 
all,  protect  from  sun,  and  cover  with  glass  or  thin  muslin.  By  leaves 
in  pots  as  for  cuttings,  placing  all  the  petiole  below  the  surface,  and 
in  bottom  heat.  By  cuttings  from  any  part  of  the  stem  ;  insert  in 
a  soil  of  equal  parts  of  peat  and  sand,  in  well-drained  pots,  in  bot- 
tom heat ;  every  joint  may  be  used,  the  leaves  not  being  removed. 
By  rhizomes ;  remove  the  scales  and  plant  them  as  seeds  are 
planted.  By  scaly  buds  produced  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves,  treated 
as  seeds.     See  Gesiieriacew,  page  318. 

Acidanthera.     IndaceoB. 

Propagation  by  seeds  and  by  corms,  usually  by  the  latter  after 
the  manner  of  gladiolus. 

Acocanthera.     ApocynacecB. 

Propagation  is  by  cuttings  taken  early  in  the  spring. 

Aconitum  (Aconite.  Monk's  Hood.  Wolf's  Bane).     RanunculaceoB. 
Seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  a  coldframe  or  border.     Also  pro- 
pagated by  division  of  roots  in  late  fall  or  early  spring.     Roots  are 
very  poisonous. 

Acorns.     AraceoB. 

Propagated  readily  in  spring  or  autumn  by  division.  See 
Araceoo,  page  239. 

Acrocomia.     PalmaceoB. 

Propagated  by  suckers.  Seeds  are  not  known  in  cultivation 
for  any  species  except  A.  sclerocarpa.     See  Palms,  page  377. 


THE  NURSERY-LIST  223 

Actinidia.     DilleniacecB. 

Propagated  easily  by  seeds  ;  also  by  layers  and  cuttings.  Hard- 
wood cuttings  should  be  put  in  sandy  soil,  in  autumn  ;  cuttings  of 
half-ripened  wood  may  be  started  in  summer  in  a  frame.  Seeds 
should  be  sown  in  spring. 

Ada.     OrchidaceoB. 

Handled  by  division  when  the  plant  begins  to  grow.  See  Orchids, 
page  372. 

Adiantum  (Maidenhair  Fern).     Polypodiaceoe. 

Propagation  is  by  spores,  using  compost  of  half  each  finely 
screened  clean  soil  and  leaf-mold  or  peat,  placing  in  moderately 
moist  and  shady  spot  in  greenhouse  in  temperature  of  60°  F.  The 
aporelings  will  come  along  if  the  spores  are  sown  in  bunch  pots  with 
a  pane  of  glass  over  them  and  in  a  shady  place.  Also  by  divi- 
sion of  crown  and  rhizomes,  in  January  or  February.  A.  Farley ensr, 
being  sterile,  must  be  propagated  by  division,  requiring  a  higher 
temperature  than  other  adiantums,  65°  to  70°  at  night  and  75°  to 
80°  during  the  day.     See  Ferns,  page  312. 

Adlumia    (Allegheny  Vine.        Smoke  Vine.       Mountain  Fringe). 
FumariacecB  (or  Papaveraceoe) . 
Propagated  by  seeds  in  spring,  sown  in  a  damp  cool  place.     The 
plant  is  biennial,  blooming  the  second  season  only. 

Adonis.     RanuncidaceoB. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  in  autumn  or  early  spring.  The  peren- 
nials may  be  root-divided  in  very  early  spring. 

.^chmea.     Bromeliacece. 

Propagation  as  for  billbergia,  which  see,  page  252. 

Aerides.     Orchidaceas. 

The  only  method  of  propagating  plants  of  this  genus  is  by  re- 
moving the  upper  part  and  planting  it  separately.  It  should  al- 
ways be  severed  low  enough  to  include  a  few  roots,  otherwise  a  large 
proportion  of  leaves  will  be  lost.  A  somewhat  dense  shade,  a  moist 
atmosphere  and  careful  watering  are  essential  until  the  young  plant 
is  established.  The  old  stool  will  soon  send  out  lateral  growths, 
which,  in  time,  may  be  separated  and  treated  similarly.  Vanda, 
saccolabium,  angrsecum,  renanthera,  are  increased  in  the  same 
way.     See  Orchids,  page  372. 


224  THE  NURSERY-MANUAL 

JEschynanthus :     Trichosporum. 

JEsculus  (Horse-Chestnut.      Buckeye).     HippocastanacecB. 

Propagated  readily  by  stratified  seeds  in  spring,  and  by  layers 
in  spring  or  autumn ;  and  by  grafting  or  budding  on  the 
common  horse-chestnut  or  native  buckeye,  usually  under  glass. 

Aganisia.     Orchidacece. 

Propagated  by  dividing  the  pseudobulbs  just  before  growth 
starts.     See  Orchids,  page  372. 

Agapanthus  (African  Lily).     Liliaceoe. 

Propagated  by  offsets,  and  more  commonly  by  dividing  the  old 
plants  in  early  spring ;   also  sometimes  by  seeds,  if  procurable. 

Agave.     Amaryllidacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  to  secure  the  production  of  which  the  flowers 
usually  need  to  be  pollinated.  Propagated  more  commonly  by  suck- 
ers, which  spring  naturally  from  the  old  plant,  or  by  underground 
shoots.  Some  kinds  produce  buds  from  the  stem  which  may  be 
detached  and  planted ;  a  few  species  bear  bulbels  in  the  flower- 
clusters.     The  century-plant  belongs  here. 

Ageratum.     Compositoe. 

Easily  grown  from  seeds  in  the  open  or  started  in  the  greenhouse, 
growing  in  any  garden  soil. 

Aglaonema.     AracecB. 

Propagated  by  division  and  cuttings.  Put  the  parts  into  sand  bed 
previous  to  potting,  to  develop  new  roots.     See  Araceoe,  page  239. 

Agrostis  (Bent-Grass).     Graminece. 

Increased  easily  by  seeds,  sown  in  spring  in  the  open  ;  sometimes 
kept  in  pots  for  ornament.  Some  kinds  are  agricultural  field  grasses, 
sown  broadcast  or  by  a  drill. 

Ailanthus  (Tree  of  Heaven).     SimarubacecB. 

Propagated  by  suckers,  and  by  root-cuttings.  Seeds  are  used 
when  large  quantities  are  desired ;  they  grow  readily  if  sown  soon 
after  maturing. 

Ajuga  (Bugle).     Labiatce. 

Perennials  are  propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  the  open  in  spring 
or  autumn,  and  by  division ;  annuals,  by  seeds  sown  where 
plants  are  to  stand.     The  plants  are  readily  divided. 


THE  NURSERY-LIST  225 

Akebia.     Lardizahalacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  layers  of  young  or  ripe  wood,  cuttings 
of  green  or  hard  wood  under  glass  in  summer.  Roots  are  sometimes 
divided. 

Albizzia.     Leguminosce. 

Propagation  as  for  acacia,  which  see.  The  species  usually  seed 
freely. 

Alcheinilla  (Lady's  Mantle).     RosacecB. 

Propagated  by  seed,  and  by  division  of  the  clumps. 

Aleurites.     Euphorbiacece. 

Propagated  by  mature  cuttings  in  sand,  under  glass.  Leaves 
should  not  be  removed.     May  also  be  grown  readily  from  seeds. 

Allamanda.     Apocynacew. 

Propagation  is  sometimes  by  layers.  Cuttings  of  the  shoots  root 
^ell  at  any  time  of  the  year,  but  spring  is  usually  preferred,  as  the 
plants  then  attain  good  size  before  winter.  Either  old  or  new 
wood  may  be  used.  Old  wood  is  cut  to  two  or  three  joints,  bemg 
taken  in  spring  or  late  winter  from  the  annual  pruning  of  the  plant. 
Young  wood  is  cut  with  a  heel.  Cuttings  should  be  struck  in 
sandy  soil  in  a  propagating-box,  at  a  temperature  of  about  70°. 
Sometimes  the  cuttings  are  started  in  pots. 

Allium    (Onion,    and    onion-like    plants    grown    for    ornament). 
Liliacece. 
Easily  increased  by  seeds  sown  thinly  in  light  soil  in  early  spring. 
Also  propagated  by  offsets  and  by  bulbels,  planting  them  in  autumn 
or  spring  1  to  4  inches  deep.     See  Onion,  Leek,  Chives,  Garlic. 

Alloplectus.     GesneriaceoB. 

Propagation  as  for  gesneriads,  page  318. 

Almonds  (Priinus  communis,  P.  japonica,  P.  glandulosa,  P.  triloba. 
and  others).  Rosacea^. 
The  details  of  propagating  the  fruit-bearing  (nut-bearing) 
almonds  {Prunus  communis  or  P.  Amygdalus)  do  not  differ  materi- 
ally from  those  followed  in  propagating  the  peach  and  apricot. 
Almond  seedlings  make  the  best  stocks  when  the  soil  conditions 
are  favorable,  both  sweet  and  bitter  almonds  being  used.  Wlien 
the  soil  moisture  conditions  vary  widely  or  where  the  soil  lacks 
depth  or  is  otherwise  at  fault,  peach  seedlings  are  perhaps  prefer- 


226  THE  NURSERY-MANUAL 

able  to  almonds,  as  stocks.  Where  irrigation  is  practiced,  pref- 
erences are  expressed  for  the  peach  stocks  as  they  withstand  the 
fluctuating  moisture  conditions  better  than  the  almond.  The 
almond  unites  well  with  Prunus  (or  Amygdalu.t)  Davidiana,  the 
**  w41d  peach  of  China,"  and  its  roots  appear  to  be  more  resistant 
to  alkali  in  the  soil  than  are  peach  roots,  but  its  ultimate  influence 
on  the  size,  longevity,  vigor  and  productiveness  of  the  tree  has 
not  been  determined.  The  myrobalan  plum  has  been  used  as  a 
stock  for  almonds,  and  recommended  especially  for  poorly  drained 
soils,  but  the  almond  outgrows  the  plum  stock,  although  the  union 
appears  to  be  strong.  The  result  is  a  dwarfing  of  the  tree,  and  ap- 
parently such  trees  do  not  bear  as  well  as  those  on  almond  or 
peach  stocks. 

The  so-called  flowering  almonds  (several  species  of  Prunus)  will 
grow  from  root-cuttings  if  on  their  own  roots.  Heel-in  the  plants 
in  fall,  and  buds  will  begin  to  form  from  the  roots  in  a  few  weeks ; 
then  make  cuttings.  Results  are  less  satisfactory  when  cuttings 
are  taken  directly  on  first  digging  the  plants.  They  are  some- 
times budded  on  myrobalan  plum  stock,  but  these  stocks  are  likely 
to  sprout  or  sucker  badly  and  to  outgrow  the  top.     See  Prunus. 

Alnus  (Alder).     Betulaceoe. 

Propagated  usually  by  seeds,  which  are  gathered  in  the  fall  and 
dried.  The  seeds  are  sown  in  spring  under  a  light  covering  and  the 
beds  are  kept  moist  and  protected  from  sun.  Sometimes  the  bed 
is  covered  with  a  thin  layer  of  moss,  which  is  removed  after  germina- 
tion. The  seedlings  are  transplanted  the  first  autumn  or  the  fol- 
lowing spring  to  nursery  rows.  Alders  are  also  increased  by  suckers, 
by  cuttings,  and  by  grafting.  Hardwood  cuttings  of  some  kinds 
(as  A.  glutinosa)  grow  in  moist  sandy  soil.  Named  varieties  or 
rare  kinds  are  sometimes  grafted  indoors  on  potted  stocks  of  the 
ordinary  kinds. 

Alocasia.     Aracece. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  divisions,  as  for  caladium.  Place 
suckers  or  cuttings  of  rhizomes  in  small  pots  containing  mixture 
of  light  fibrous  peat  and  sand  in  equal  proportions,  and  plunge 
in  close  frame  or  propagating-box  with  bottom  heat.  Seeds  should 
be  sown  in  4-inch  pots  in  light  peaty  soil,  wdth  temperature  of 
75°  F.  March  is  best  time  for  propagating.  See  Araceoe,  page 
239. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  227 

Aloe  (Aloe).     Liliaceoe. 

Commonly  propagated  by  suckers,  which  spring  from  the  base 
of  the  plant.  Seeds  are  sometimes  employed.  When  using  cut- 
tings, the  cut  part  should  be  dusted  over  with  powdered  charcoal 
and  dried  in  sunshine  before  being  put  in  sand  to  root.  See 
LiliacecB,  page  349. 

Alonsoa.     Scrophulariaceoe. 

Propagated  usually  by  seeds,  sown  in  spring  when  weather 
becomes  warm,  or  started  earlier  under  glass ;  also  by  cuttings  in 
sandy  soil,  in  propagating-frame. 

Aloysia :  Lippia. 

Alpinia.     Zingiber  acecB. 

Propagated  readily  by  division  in  spring ;  also  by  firm  cuttings 
of  shoots. 

Alsophila  (Tree  Fern).     Cyatheaceae. 

Propagated  by  spores.     See  Ferns,  page  312. 

Alstroemeria.     Amaryllidaceae. 

Increased  by  seeds  which  should  be  sown  rather  thinly  in  deep 
pans  and  allowed  to  remain  without  shifting  for  the  first  season. 
Propagated  also  by  a  careful  division  of  the  fleshy  roots,  in  fall  or 
spring. 

Alternanthera.     Amaranthacece. 

Much  used  for  carpet-bedding,  properly  of  the  genus  Telanthera. 
The  bedding  material  is  grown  from  cuttings  and  division.  The 
cuttings  may  be  made  from  strong  outdoor  plants  in  late  summer 
and  carried  over  winter  in  flats,  being  potted  off  in  early  spring 
to  get  them  ready  for  planting  out  in  their  beds.  If  cuttings  are 
taken  in  late  winter  or  very  early  spring  from  overwintered  plants, 
they  will  probably  not  be  strong  or  large  enough  for  good  bedding 
material. 

Division  of  old  plants  is  to  be  preferred  if  one  has  sufficient  stock. 
The  old  plants  are  lifted  from  the  beds  after  the  first  frosts,  cut 
back  to  3  to  4  inches  tall,  and  carried  over  winter  regularly  planted 
in  flats.  In  early  spring  the  plants  are  divided  and  all  the  shoots 
or  parts  bearing  good  roots  are  potted  or  else  planted  with  plenty 
of  room  in  other  flats.  After  four  to  six  weeks  they  should  be 
large  enough  to  put  directly  into  beds.  Both  cuttings  and  divisions 
are  handled  in  good  hotbeds  or  in  a  propagating-house. 


228  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Althaea  (Marsh-Mallow.     Hollyhock).     MalvaceoB. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  division.  The  biennial  species 
should  be  raised  from  seeds  every  year.     See  Hollyhock. 

Alyssum.     Cruciferce. 

increased  by  seeds  (particularly  sweet  alyssum  and  other  annuals) 
sown  in  the  open  border  or  in  pans  of  sandy  soil.  Also  propagated 
by  division  and  layers  and  by  cuttings  of  young  shoots.  The 
common  sweet  alyssum  {A.  viaritimum)  is  hardy  and  seeds  may 
be  sown  early  where  the  plants  are  to  grow ;  seedlings  also  trans- 
plant readily.  Sweet  alyssum  is  known  also  under  the  names 
Koniga  and  Lobularia. 

Amaranthus  (Amaranth).     Amaranthacece. 

Readily  grown  from  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in  the  open  where 
the  plants  are  to  stand  and  the  seedlings  thinned,  or  started  under 
glass  and  the  plants  transplanted. 

I  Amaryllidaceae .     Amaryllids. 

Nearly  all  the  plants  of  this  family  are  bulbous  and  are  readily 
increased  by  offsets,  suckers,  or  seeds.  The  bulbs  naturally  make 
other  bulbs  or  give  rise  to  separable  parts  that  are  easily  usable 
for  propagation.  Most  of  the  common  amaryllids  (as  amaryllis, 
hippeastrum,  lycoris,  sprekelia,  brunsvigia,  crinum,  pancratium, 
hymenocallis)  are  summer  or  autumn  bloomers  and  make  their 
growth  after  the  flowers  are  passed.  In  cold  climates  the  bulbs  are 
lifted  in  autumn  after  well  ripened  or  all  the  possible  growth  is 
made,  and  stored  on  a  greenhouse  bench  or  in  a  light  cool  pit  with 
some  of  the  earth  adhering.  The  remaining  leaves  will  then 
naturally  mature,  and  the  bulbs  may  be  kept  cool  and  dormant 
until  spring,  at  which  time  they  are  potted  or  planted  in  the  open 
for  blooming.  Each  bulb  should  make  two  to  four  or  more  offsets 
if  the  growth  is  vigorous.  In  removing  these  offsets,  see  that  they 
have  developed  sufficient  roots  to  support  them. 

The  amaryllids  may  be  propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be 
sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  covered  lightly  with  fine  soil  and  kept  from 
drying  out.  When  leaves  have  developed,  put  in  pots  and  keep 
them  growing.  Good  blooming  plants  should  be  obtained  in  one 
to  three  years. 

Amelanchier   (Shad-bush.     Juneberry.     Service-berry).     Rosaceae. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  soon  after  ripening,  or  stratified  and 

sown  in  spring ;    also  increased  by  suckers,  layers  and  cuttings  in 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  229 

autumn  and  by  grafting,  in  early  spring,  on  Crataegus,  or  the 
stronger-growing  species ;  quince  and  mountain  ash  are  also  re- 
corded as  stocks.     See  Juneherry. 

Ammophila.     Gramineoe. 

Propagated  by  division  and  can  probably  be  handled  easily  by 
root-cuttings.  A.  arenaria  is  used  for  holding  sands  along  sea- 
shores. 

Amomum.     Zingiber  aceoe. 

Propagated  by  division  in  the  spring. 

Amorpha  (Lead-Plant).     Leguminosae. 

Increased  by  seeds,  usually.  Greenwood  cuttings  strike  readily 
early  in  the  season  under  glass.  Hardwood  cuttings  may  be  planted 
in  the  open,  in  a  protected  place,  in  autumn  and  allowed  to  remain 
for  a  year.     Suckers  and  layers  may  also  be  used. 

Amorphophallus.     AraceoB. 

Propagated  by  offsets,  or  cormels,  and  by  seeds,  w^hich,  however, 
are  usually  sparingly  produced  in  cultivation.  Place  offsets  in  pots 
in  mixture  of  loam,  leaf-mold  and  sand,  in  temperature  of  65°  to 
70°.  Some  of  the  large  kinds  do  not  increase  rapidly,  as  offsets 
may  not  be  formed.     See  Aracece,  page  239. 

Ampelopsis.      Vitaceoe. 

Increased  by  seeds.  Layers  or  cuttings  made  in  spring  from  the 
young  soft  wood  root  freely  in  gentle  heat.  All  species  may  be 
propagated  by  hardwood  cuttings  taken  in  September  and  pricked 
out  under  hand-lights  or  in  a  frame.  Softwood  cuttings  may  also 
be  taken  in  summer  under  glass.  For  Virginia  creeper,  see  Parthe- 
nocissus. 

Amygdalus :  Prunus. 

Anacardium  (Cashew).     AnacardiaceoB. 

Mature-wood  cuttings,  with  leaves  on,  root  in  sand  under 
glass,  in  heat.  Also  increased  by  means  of  seeds,  when  obtain- 
able. 

Anagallis  (Pimpernel).     Primulaceoe. 

The  annuals  are  propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  the  open  in  spring ; 
the  perennials,  by  cuttings  from  young  shoots,  or  by  division. 
The  cuttings  should  be  handled  under  glass. 


230  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Ananas :  Pineapple. 

Anastatica  (Resurrection  Plant.     Rose  of  Jericho).     Cruciferos. 

Seeds  sown  in  the  spring  in  heat  g\\e  good  results ;  or  they  may 
be  sown  directly  in  the  open  where  seasons  are  long. 

Anchusa.     Boraginacex. 

Propagated  readily  by  seeds,  sown  in  early  spring  in  sandy  soil ; 
seedlings  may  be  handled  in  pots  to  advantage.  x\lso  increased 
by  division,  and  rarely  by  cuttings. 

Andromeda.     Ericaceco. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  thinly  under  glass  as  soon  as  ripe,  in 
pots  or  pans,  with  peaty  soil.  Living  chopped  sphagnum  is  an 
excellent  material  on  which  to  sow  andromeda  seeds.  Sow  under 
glass  early  in  January  in  a  temperature  of  55°  to  60°.  The  young 
plants  should  be  planted  out  in  spring,  if  large  enough,  or  pricked 
into  boxes  if  small.  x\lso  increased  by  layers,  which,  if  carefully 
pegged  down  in  September,  will  take  twelve  months  to  make 
sufficient  roots  to  allow  of  their  being  separated;  layerage  is  a 
common  method.  Some  of  the  plants  commonly  knowm  as  an- 
dromeda are  now  referred  to  Pieris. 

Androsace.     Primulaceoe. 

Propagation  is  by  division,  seeds  and  cuttings. 

Anemia.     SchizcBacecB. 

Propagated  by  spores ;  tufted  kinds  by  division  in  March  and 
April.     See  Ferns,  page  312. 

Anemone  (Anemony.     Windflower).     RanuncidaceGB. 

Increased  by  seeds,  root-division  or  root-cuttings  in  autumn  or 
early  spring.  The  so-called  tuberous  kinds  make  naturally  divisi- 
ble root  parts.  The  seeds  are  sowm  in  open-air  beds  in  autumn  or 
spring,  in  a  protected  place. 

Angelonia.     Scrophulariacece. 

Multiplied  by  seeds,  w^hich  should  be  planted  in  spring  in  hot- 
beds, and  transplanted  in  the  open  in  May ;  or  in  regions  of  long 
seasons,  sown  directly  in  the  open.  Also  increased  by  cuttings  of 
the  young  shoots  in  spring.  These  root  readily  in  a  propagating- 
bed.  A.  grandiflora,  the  most  popular  kind,  will  produce  flowers 
the  first  year  from  seed.     A.  cornigera  is  annual. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  231 

Angiopteris.     Marattiaceae. 

Propagation  by  fleshy  scales  at  base  of  each  frond.  These  scales 
should  be  placed  on  sand  and  covered  with  sphagnum.  Also  by 
division.     See  Ferns,  page  312. 

Angraecum.     OrchidaceGB. 

Propagation  as  for  aerides,  which  see. 

\nguloa.     OrchidaceoB. 

Propagated  by  dividing  the  pseudobulbs,  just  before  they  be- 
gin to  grow.  Division  must  be  made  after  the  shoots  are  dis- 
tinguishable from  the  old  back  bulbs  :  these  old  bulbs  are  removed 
at  the  creeping  rhizome  or  rootstock.     See  Orchids,  page  372. 

Anise  {Pimpinella  Anisum).      Umhelliferae. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  the  garden  in  spring  on  approach  of 
warm  weather. 

Annona  (Custard- Apple).     AnnonacecB. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which,  in  the  North,  should  be  sown  in  pots 
in  a  hotbed ;  by  ripened  cuttings,  which  will  root  in  sand  under 
glass,  in  bottom  heat.  Highly  valued  species  are  propagated  by 
budding  and  grafting,  shield-budding  being  most  commonly  em- 
ployed after  the  method  of  handling  the  orange.  The  bud  should 
be  taken  from  wood  from  which  the  leaves  have  fallen,  preferably 
about  one  year  old.  On  older  stocks,  cleft-grafting  may  be  em- 
ployed, using  well-matured  cions  from  which  the  leaves  have 
dropped.  The  stocks  are  usually  the  cherimoyer  {A.  Cherimola) 
or  the  pond-apple  {A.  glabra),  grown  from  seeds. 

Annuals. 

The  subjects  known  to  gardeners  as  "  annuals  "  are  ornamental 
plants  producing  seed  and  coming  to  maturity  the  year  in  which 
the  seeds  are  sown.  They  may  not  be  strictly  annual  in  duration, 
in  the  sense  of  dying  and  completing  their  cycle  within  a  twelve- 
month. Some  of  the  potential  perennials  bloom  and  fruit  the  first 
year  from  seed,  and  yet  may  live  to  the  second  or  even  the  third 
year  (as  eschscholtzia  or  California  poppies,  the  China  pinks,  pansy 
if  allowed  to  do  so)  ;  these  plants  are  usually  classed  as  annuals  by 
gardeners.  Other  so-called  annuals  are  woody  or  even  tree-like 
in  warm  or  tropical  countries,  as  the  castor-bean. 

The  annuals  are  of  easy  propagation,  being  grown  from  seeds 
of  the  previous  year.     The  common  flower-garden  kinds  may  be 


232  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

raised  from  seeds  sown  directly  in  the  open  ground,  but  if  earlier 
bloom  and  a  longer  season  are  desired  the  seeds  may  be  started  in 
the  dwelling  house,  window-garden,  hotbed  or  greenhouse,  and  the 
small  seedlings  transplanted  to  the  garden.  Whether  the  seeds 
should  be  started  indoors  depends  on  the  region,  the  hardiness  of 
the  species,  the  season  in  which  bloom  is  desired.  Small  and  deli- 
cate seeds  should  be  started  under  cover  for  protection  from  beat- 
ing rains  and  winds,  whatever  the  region,  north  or  south.  The 
young  plants  of  some  species  are  so  delicate  and  tender  as  to 
demand  protection  from  wind,  hot  sun  and  dryness.  All  these 
details  the  gardener  learns  by  experience.  Hints  on  them  are 
likely  to  be  found  in  seed  catalogues. 

Sometimes  annuals  are  classed  as  hardy,  half-hardy  and  tender, 
having  reference  to  frost  and  in  practice  applied  to  time  of  sowing. 
So  wide  are  the  latitudes  in  North  America,  however,  within  the 
limits  of  a  single  country,  that  these  distinctions  are  largely  given  up 
here.  A  hardy  annual  may  be  sown  even  before  '^  settled  weather  '' 
and  when  frosts  are  still  expected,  as  sweet  pea,  abronia,  sweet 
alyssum  ;  these  plants  are  usually  sown  directly  in  the  open  ground, 
sometimes  even  in  autumn.  The  half-hardy  annuals,  as  phlox, 
alonsoa,  petunia,  withstand  considerable  hardship  and  may  be 
started  indoors  or  sown  in  the  open  before  the  weather  becomes 
very  hot.  Tender  annuals  are  sown  late  and  are  impatient  of  cold, 
and  are  sometimes  protected  under  glass  or  elsewhere  all  summer ; 
examples  are  many  ipomoeas  and  cucurbits,  maurandia,  torenia. 

Very  few  annuals  bloom  continuously  from  early  to  late.  When 
seeds  begin  to  form,  the  blooming  usually  halts.  The  best  results 
are  obtained  by  repeated  sowings  at  intervals,  one  crop  being  re- 
moved from  the  beds  when  it  begins  to  fail  and  a  fresh  crop  of  the 
same  or  another  species  put  in  its  place.  The  seedlings  should  be 
transplanted  before  they  crowd  in  the  pots  or  boxes,  and  care 
should  be  taken  that  they  do  not  become  "  drawn."  Annuals  are 
adaptable,  and  they  give  much  satisfaction  when  one  is  willing  to 
take  sufficient  pains  in  propagation. 

It  is  sometimes  desirable  to  propagate  annuals  by  other  means 
than  seeds  in  order  to  perpetuate  particular  strains  or  forms. 
For  this  purpose  cuttings  of  vigorous  young  shoots  may  be  taken 
late  in  the  season  and  the  new  plants  carried  over  winter  in  the 
window-garden  or  under  glass.  Probably  not  all  the  annuals  can 
be  handled  satisfactorily  by  this  method.  The  perennials  that  are 
commonly  treated  as  annuals,  as  verbena,  are  readily  propagated 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  233 

in  this  way;  and  cuttings  may  be  made  of  petunias  and  many 
others.  The  number  of  annuals  that  can  be  propagated  asexually 
with  success  under  flower-garden  conditions  is  probably  larger  than 
we  know. 

Anoectochilus.     Orchidaceoe. 

Increased  by  cutting  off  the  growing  top  just  below  the  last  new 
root,  dividing  the  remainder  of  the  stem  into  lengths  of  two  or  three 
joints.  Handle  under  a  bell-glass  or  in  a  propagating-box.  See 
Orchids,  page  372. 

Anthemis  (Chamomile).     Cornpositoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  division  of  the  clumps,  usually 
the  latter  as  the  commonly  cultivated  species  are  perennial. 

Anthericum.     Liliaceoe. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  in  a  frame ;  readily  by 
division  of  the  roots.     Propagation  is  naturally  by  stolons. 

Antholyza.     Iridaceae. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  in  light  soil  in  a  cool 
house  or  a  frame.  They  germinate  the  following  spring,  and  will  be 
fit  to  plant  out  in  summer.  Also  propagated  by  oft'sets ;  this  is 
the  usual  way. 

Anthurium.     Araceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  shallow  well-drained 
pans  or  pots  covered  with  finely  chopped  sphagnum.  Cover  lightly 
and  place  in  a  moist  propagating-case,  in  a  temperature  of  75°-80°  ; 
or  the  pots  may  be  covered  with  bell-glasses.  Keep  the  soil  and 
air  uniformly  moist.  Also  increased  by  division,  which  should  be 
made  in  January,  using  soil  composed  of  peat  fiber,  chopped 
sphagnum  moss,  sand  and  charcoal.  Suckers  are  used  for  propaga- 
tion, when  they  form ;  also  cuttings  of  the  rhizomes  handled  in 
small  pots  in  a  mixture  of  peat  fiber,  sand  and  chopped  sphagnum. 
See  AracexB,  page  239. 

Anthyllis  (Kidney  Vetch).     LeguminoscB. 

Herbaceous  perennials,  increased  by  seeds,  division  and  cuttings. 
The  cuttings  of  most  species  will  root  in  sandy  soil  in  a  cool  house 
or  frame. 

Antigonon  (Mountain  Rose.     Corallita).     Polygonacece. 

Propagated  readily  by  seeds,  which  are  abundantly  produced. 


234  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

A.ntirrhinum  (Snapdragon).     Scrophulariaceoe. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  early  spring  for  summer  bloom  or 
m  midsummer  for  winter  bloom  under  glass ;  by  cuttings,  whirii 
should  be  taken  in  September  or  in  spring,  when  they  will  readily 
root  under  glass.  Most  kinds  are  hardy,  and  for  early  spring  or 
summer  bloom  seeds  are  sometimes  sown  in  the  open  in  August 
or  September  and  well  protected  in  winter  where  they  stand ;  in 
the  spring,  the  plants  may  be  transplanted  from  the  seed-bed. 
Plants  started  in  summer  may  be  used  for  winter  bloom  under 
glass. 

Aphelandra.     Acanthacece. 

Handled  by  cuttings  from  half -ripened  wood  at  any  time,  or  from 
young  wood  taken  with  a  heel ;  place  in  pots  of  sandy  soil,  and 
plunge  in  good  bottom  heat.  Can  be  increased  by  seeds,  when  these 
are  obtainable. 

Apicra.     Liliaceoe. 

Propagation  as  for  aloe,  which  see. 

Apocynaceae.    Apocynads. 

All  the  shrubby  species  are  readily  increased  by  cuttings  from 
the  young  growth  or  by  seeds,  while  the  herbaceous  plants  are 
propagated  by  division  and  seeds. 

Aponogeton,  including  Ouvirandra.     Aponogetonacece. 

Propagated  rapidly  by  seeds  and  offsets.  The  seeds  should  be 
sown  as  soon  as  ripe  and  not  dried,  in  pots  sunk  in  water  and  cov- 
ered with  glass,  or  in  balls  of  earth  submerged.  To  obtain  good 
seeds,  the  flowers  should  be  pollinated  and  kept  above  water. 
The  lace-leaf  {Aponogeton,  or  Ouvirandra,  fenestralis)  is  propagated 
by  division. 

Apple  (Pyrus  Malus).     RosaceoB. 

Standard  apple  stocks  are  grown  from  seeds,  and  dwarf  stocks 
from  mound-layers.  Apple  seeds  are  either  imported  from  France 
or  obtained  from  pomace.  Formerly  "  Vermont  crab  "  stocks, 
grown  from  the  pomace  of  New  England  cider  mills,  and  largely 
from  seedling  trees,  were  popular  in  the  North  and  West.  Of  late 
years,  with  the  disappearance  of  seedling  trees,  these  stocks  have 
lost  favor,  since  they  come  largely  from  cull  fruit  of  grafted  trees. 
The  French  seeds  give  what  are  technically  known  as  crab  stocks, 
although  botanically  not  crab-apples.     The  yearling  stocks  them- 


THE    NURSERY-LIST  2H5 

selves  are  imported  from  France  in  great  numbers.  It  has  been 
supposed  that  French  crab  stocks  are  hardier  and  more  vigorous 
than  ours,  but  this  opinion  is  much  less  prevalent  than  formerly. 
Of  late  years  they  have  not  been  available  in  large  quantity,  which 
has  led  to  the  more  general  use  of  native  stocks.  As  a  ride,  nursery- 
men who  grow  trees  do  not  raise  apple  stocks.  Stock  growing  is 
largely  a  separate  business  requiring  special  experience,  and  in  this 
country  it  is  an  important  industry,  mostly  in  Kansas  at  present 
on  the  fertile  bottom  lands. 

The  chief  present  source  of  apple  seeds  is  the  pomace  from 
cider  mills.  The  "  cheese  "  of  pomace  is  broken  up,  and  if  the 
material  is  dry  enough  it  may  be  run  through  a  large  sieve  to  re- 
move the  coarser  parts.  The  seeds  are  then  removed  by  washing. 
Various  devices  are  in  use  for  w^ashing  them  out.  They  all  pro- 
ceed on  the  fact  that  the  pomace  wdll  rise  in  water  and  the  seeds 
sink.  Some  use  a  tub  or  common  tank,  which  is  tilted  a  little  to 
allow  the  water  to  flow  over  the  side.  Others  employ  boxes  some 
7  or  8  feet  long,  4  feet  wide  and  a  foot  deep,  the  low^er  end  of  which  is 
only  11  inches  deep  to  allow  the  escape  of  the  water.  This  box  is 
set  on  benches,  and  a  good  stream  of  water  is  carried  into  it  at  the 
upper  end.  A  bushel  or  two  of  pomace  is  emptied  in  at  a  time,  and 
it  is  broken  and  stirred  with  a  fork  or  shovel.  When  the  seeds 
are  liberated,  they  fall  to  the  bottom  and  the  refuse  runs  over  the 
lower  end.  Another  box  is  provided  with  several  cleats,  at  inter- 
vals of  about  a  foot,  and  the  ends  are  left  open.  The  box  is  set  at 
an  angle,  and  the  seeds  are  caught  behind  the  cleats.  Seeds  must 
not  stand  long  in  the  pomace  pile,  or  they  will  be  seriously  injured. 
Nurserymen  like  to  secure  the  pomace  as  soon  as  it  is  taken  from 
the  press. 

As  soon  as  the  seeds  are  collected,  they  should  be  spread  on 
tables  or  boards,  and  should  be  turned  frequently  until  perfectly 
dry.  They  may  then  be  stored  in  boxes  in  slightly  damp  sand  oi 
sawdust,  or  in  powdered  charcoal,  and  kept  in  a  cool  and  dry  place 
until  spring.  Or  if  they  are  to  be  sown  immediately,  they  need  not 
be  dried,  but  simply  mixed  with  enough  dry  sand  to  absorb  the 
water  so  as  to  make  them  easy  to  handle.  Seeds  should  not  be 
allowed  to  become  hard  and  dry  through  long  exposure,  or  they  will 
germinate  unevenly.  Apple  seeds  procured  at  the  seed  stores 
may  be  worthless  because  of  this  neglect.  Very  dry  seeds  can 
sometimes  be  grow^n,  however,  by  subjecting  them  to  repeated 
soakings  and  then  sprouting  in  a  gentle  hotbed  or  mild  forcing- 


236  THE    NURSERY-MANUAL 

house.  Change  the  water  on  the  seeds  every  day;  and  at  the  end 
of  a  week  or  ten  days  mix  with  sand  and  place  in  a  thin  layer  in  the 
hotbed.  Stir  frequently  to  prevent  molding.  When  the  seeds 
begin  to  sprout,  sow  them  in  the  open  ground.  This  operation, 
which  is  sometimes  called  "  pipping,"  may  be  performed  in  a  small 
way  near  the  kitchen  stove.  Seeds  are  sometimes  *'  pipped  "  be- 
tween moist  blankets.  The  more  common  method  at  present  is 
to  mix  the  seed  with  moist  sand,  which  is  stirred  occasionally. 
When  the  seeds  begin  to  swell,  in  about  a  month,  they  are  sown 
'^ither  in  the  coldframe  or  in  the  field. 

When  sowing  is  made  in  the  fall,  the  seeds  may  be  sown  in  the 
pomace.  This  entails  extra  labor  in  sowing,  but  it  saves  the  labor 
of  washing.  This  practice  gives  good  results  if  the  pomace  is  finely 
broken,  and  it  is  now  common  among  nurserymen. 

In  loose  and  well-drained  soils,  sowing  is  undoubtedly  best  per- 
formed in  the  fall,  just  as  early  as  the  seeds  are  ready.  But  on 
land  that  holds  much  water  and  heaves  with  frost  or  contains 
much  clay,  spring  sowing  is  preferable.  In  spring,  the  seeds  should 
be  sown  as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked. 

If  the  stocks  are  to  be  cultivated  with  a  horse,  the  rows  should 
be  3  or  3|-  feet  apart.  Some  growers  sow  in  narrow  drills  and  some 
in  broad  ones.  The  broad  drills  are  usually  6  to  10  inches  wide. 
The  earth  is  removed  to  the  depth  of  2  to  3  inches,  if  it  is  loose  and 
in  good  condition,  the  seed  is  scattered  thinly  on  the  surface  and 
the  earth  hoed  back  over  them.  If  the  ground  is  likely  to  bake,  the 
seeds  should  not  be  sown  so  deep ;  and  it  is  always  well,  in  such 
cases,  to  apply  a  very  light  and  clean  mulch.  The  plants  should 
be  well  cultivated,  and  they  should  attain  a  height  of  6  to  12 
inches  or  more  the  first  year.  If  the  plants  come  thickly,  they 
must  be  thinned. 

In  the  autumn  of  the  first  year  the  seedlings  should  be  large 
enough  to  be  dug  and  sold  to  general  nurserymen.  Sometimes 
the  poorest  plants  are  allowed  to  stand  another  year,  but  they  are 
usually  so  scattering  that  they  do  not  pay  for  the  use  of  the  land, 
and  they  should  be  transplanted  the  same  as  the  larger  stock,  or 
the  weakest  ones  may  be  thrown  away.  The  stocks  are  dug  with 
a  plow  or  tree-digger  and  heeled-in  closely,  so  that  the  leaves 
"  sweat  "  and  fall  off.  The  plants  are  then  stored  in  sand,  moss 
or  sawdust  in  a  cellar.  Before  they  are  planted,  the  tops  are  cut 
off  near  the  crown,  usually  w  ith  a  hatchet  on  a  block ;  or  if  to  be 
used  for  budding,  10  to  12  inches  or  more  of  the  top  is  left  on. 


THE    NURSERY-LIST  237 

The  stocks  are  then  graded  into  budding  and  grafting  sizes.  The 
general  nurserymen  buy  these  stocks  in  fall  or  early  winter.  Those 
that  are  root-grafted  are  worked  in  late  winter,  but  those  intended 
for  budding,  or  which  must  be  grown  another  season  before  they 
attain  sufficient  size  for  working,  are  heeled-in,  sometimes  being 
"  dressed  "  (see  page  123) ;  in  the  spring  they  are  set  in  nursery 
rows,  about  a  foot  apart  in  the  row.  The  nurseryman  reckons  the 
age  of  his  tree  from  the  top  or  graft,  rather  than  from  the  time  the 
seed  was  sown. 

The  yearling  seedlings  are  graded  by  the  western  growers  into 
about  four  lots  :  "  Extras,"  or  those  at  least  ^  inch  in  diameter  at 
the  crown,  and  having  12  inches  of  both  top  and  root ;  "  Com- 
mons," those  between  y%  and  ^  inch  at  the  crown,  and  having  8 
inches  of  root ;  "  Seconds,"  those  from  -f^  to  -^^  inch  at  the  crown  ; 
and  **  thirds,"  or  all  those  under  -^q.  The  last  class  must  be  grown 
in  the  field  for  one  or  two  seasons  before  the  stocks  can  be  worked 
to  advantage.  For  nursery-grafting,  seedlings  of  y^  inch  and  up 
are  preferred,  but  the  seconds  (x^6'"~T6")  ^^^  often  used.  For  bud- 
ding, branched  seedlings  \  inch  and  up  are  most  employed. 
(Directions  for  budding  are  to  be  found  on  pages  122  to  133.) 

In  the  coldest  of  the  apple-growing  regions,  the  true  crab-apple 
{Pyrus  baccata)  is  often  used  for  stocks ;  and  other  stocks  are 
under  trial. 

Dwarf  stocks  are  mostly  obtained  from  mound-layering.  The 
common  stock  for  dwarfing  is  the  Paradise  apple,  a  dwarf  variety 
of  the  common  apple  species  (Pyrus  Malus).  This  variety  rarely 
attains  a  height  of  more  than  4  feet.  A  larger  or  freer  stock  is  the 
Doucin,  also  a  variety  of  Pyrus  Malus,  that  w  ill  produce  an  en- 
grafted tree  intermediate  in  size  between  that  afforded  by  the  Para- 
dise and  free  or  common  stocks.  To  obtain  stools  for  mound- 
layering,  the  tree,  when  well  established,  is  cut  off  within  4  or  6 
inches  of  the  ground  in  spring,  and  in  the  summer  several  shoots 
or  sprouts  will  arise.  The  next  year  the  stool  is  covered  by 
a  mound,  and  by  autumn  the  layers  are  ready  to  take  off. 
Sometimes,  when  stocks  are  rare,  mound-layering  is  performed 
the  first  summer,  before  the  young  shoots  have  hardened,  but 
good  stocks  are  not  obtained  by  this  method.  Common  green 
layering  is  sometimes  practiced  the  first  year,  but  it  is  not  in 
favor.  The  dwarf  stocks,  in  common  with  all  apple  stocks,  may 
be  propagated  sparingly  by  root-cuttings  and  by  hardwood  cut- 
tings.    The  common  cultivated  varieties  are  rooted  from  hard- 


238  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

wood  cuttings  with  extreme  difficulty,  if  at  all.  (For  a  study  o! 
Paradise  stocks,  used  for  dwarfing,  see  Hatton,  Journ.  Royal  Hort. 
Soc.  May,  1919.) 

Apple  stocks  are  either  grafted  or  budded.  Root-grafting  is 
the  most  common  at  the  West ;  long  cions  are  sometimes  used 
in  order  to  secure  own-rooted  trees,  although  only  a  few  varieties 
root  well  on  their  own  wood.  Budding  is  performed  in  August 
and  early  September  in  the  northern  states,  or  it  may  be  begun 
on  strong  stocks  in  July  by  using  buds  that  have  been  kept  on  ice. 
Stocks  should  be  strong  enough  to  be  budded  the  same  year  they 
are  transplanted,  but  the  operation  is  sometimes  deferred  until 
the  second  summer.  Stocks  that  cannot  be  worked  until  the 
second  year  are  unprofitable,  especially  on  valuable  land.  For 
illustrations  of  the  methods  of  grafting  apple  trees,  consult  many 
of  the  figures  from  Figs.  152  to  188,  and  Fig.  198. 

For  root-grafting,  strong  one-year-old  roots  are  best,  but  two- 
year-olds  are  often  used.  For  piece-root  work,  the  root  is  cut  into 
two  or  three  pieces  of  2  to  3  inches  each.  The  lowest  piece  is 
usually  small  and  weak,  and  is  generally  discarded.  Whole-root 
grafts  are  to  be  preferred,  unless  the  tree  is  to  be  grown  on  its  own 
roots  by  the  use  of  a  long  cion.  For  discussion  of  the  relative 
merits  of  budded  and  root-grafted  trees,  turn  to  page  141. 

The  apple  is  easily  top-grafted  and  top-budded.  (See  Chapter 
VI.  For  grades  of  trees  of  apples  and  others,  see  pages  179  to  182 ; 
measuring  devices  are  shown  in  Figs.  203  to  205.) 

Apricot  {Prunus  armeniaca,  P.  dasycarpa,  P.  Mume).     Rosacece. 

The  apricot  thrives  on  a  variety  of  stocks.  Apricot  stocks  are 
used  in  apricot-growing  regions,  especially  for  deep  and  rich  w^ell- 
drained  soils.  The  pits  grow  readily  if  given  the  same  treatment 
as  that  detailed  for  the  peach  (which  see).  The  stocks  are  also 
handled  in  the  same  way  as  peach  stocks.  Apricots  on  apricot 
roots  are  not  largely  grown  outside  of  California,  in  this  country. 
Apricot  stocks  can  be  grown  from  root-cuttings  the  same  as  cherries 
and  other  stone-fruits,  but  this  is  little  practiced. 

The  apricot  does  well  on  the  peach,  especially  on  light  soils. 
In  the  warmer  parts  of  the  country  peach  is  much  used. 

Plum  stocks  are  commonly  used  at  the  North,  especially  if  the 
trees  are  to  be  planted  in  moist  or  heavy  soils.  The  common 
plum  is  generally  used,  but  some  of  the  native  plum  stocks 
are  coming  into  favor,  especially  in  trying  climates.     The  Russian 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  239 

apricots,  which  are  a  hardy  race  of  Prunus  armeniaca,  are  grown  in 
colder  climates  than  the  common  varieties,  and  they  therefore  de- 
mand hardy  stocks.  Any  of  the  native  plums  make  good  stocks, 
but  the  Marianna  is  prominent.  The  myrobalan  plum  can  be 
used  for  all  apricots,  but  it  is  not  popular  in  severe  climates. 
The  almond,  both  hard-  and  soft-shelled,  is  sometimes  used  for 
the  apricot,  but  the  union  is  likely  to  be  imperfect,  and  it  is  not 
recommended.  Almond-rooted  trees  are  thought  to  be  best 
adapted  to  light  soils.  The  whole  subject  of  stocks  for  apricots  is 
in  need  of  investigation. 

Varieties  of  apricots  are  usually  budded,  in  the  same  way  as  the 
peach,  although  they  may  be  side-grafted  at  the  crown  in  the  nur- 
sery row. 

In  California,  the  apricot  is  mostly  worked  on  apricot  seedlings, 
by  budding  the  seedlings  the  same  year  the  seed  is  planted.  The 
peach  stock  grown  in  the  same  way  was  formerly  preferred  and  of 
late  years  is  again  coming  into  favor,  especially  in  rather  shallow 
or  medium  heavy  soils.  In  heavy  soils,  or  on  hillsides  subject  to 
spring  seepage,  the  myrobalan  plum  stock  is  used.  On  the  almond, 
the  union  is  too  imperfect  for  practical  purposes. 

Aquilegia  (Columbine).     Ranunculaceas. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  thinly,  soon  after  ripe,  in  a  sandy  soil 
or  in  a  frame.  Blooming  plants  should  be  had  the  second  season. 
Keep  the  seed-beds  uniformly  moist,  as  the  seeds  are  likely  to  be 
slow  in  germinating.  Division  of  the  root  is  employed  for  the 
perpetuating  of  named  or  horticultural  varieties. 

Arabis  (Wall-Cress.  Rock-Cress).     Cruciferce. 

Multiplied  readily  by  seeds  sown  in  the  open  or  in  pans,  in 
spring ;  by  division  of  the  root,  and  by  cuttings  in  a  shady  place 
or  a  frame  in  summer. 

Araceae.     Aroids. 

Propagation  is  by  seed,  in  most  cases  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  using 
a  compost  of  peat,  loam,  sand  and  sphagnum  moss,  covering  lightl}', 
placing  the  tropical  species  in  a  close  moist  propagating-case  where 
a  temperature  of  75°  to  80°  is  maintained.  Seeds  of  species  from 
temperate  climates  may  be  placed  in  a  temperature  of  65°  to  70°. 
The  soil  should  be  kept  uniformly  moist  at  all  times.  Some  kinds 
are  increased  by  offsets,  others  by  tubers,  while  the  larger  number 
are  increased  by  division  or  by  cuttings. 


240  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Arachis :    Peanut. 

Aralia.     AraliaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  spring  and  by  root-cuttiiigs,  also  by 
stem-cuttings,  all  in  heat.  The  greenhouse  kinds  are  not  likely 
to  produce  seeds.  The  plants  commonly  known  to  horticulturists 
as  aralias  are  now  distributed  in  several  genera,  the  true  aralias 
being  mostly  hardy  or  half-hardy  outdoor  plants  in  the  northern  and 
central  states.     See  Dizygotheca,  Fatsia,  Polyscias. 

Araucaria.     PinacecB. 

Increased  by  seeds  (when  obtainable)  sown  in  pans  or  boxes, 
with  gentle  heat;  by  cuttings  from  the  leading  shoots,  placed 
firmly  in  sand.  For  the  making  of  symmetrical  plants,  cuttings 
should  be  taken  from  upright  leading  shoots  that  start  from  the 
axils  of  the  branches.  Cuttings  from  side  or  horizontal  shoots 
make  irregular  plants.  Seedlings  themselves  are  readily  grown 
from  imported  seed,  but  they  make  tall  loose  plants.  To  secure 
compact  plants,  cuttings  may  be  made  from  strong  seedlings.  The 
top  shuot  of  the  seedling  is  taken  as  a  cutting  and  rooted  in  a  cool 
temperature  (about  60°).  The  seedling  then  produces  other 
leader  shoots  from  the  axils  of  the  upper  tier  of  branches,  and  these 
in  turn  are  taken  for  cuttings.  The  seedling  is  then  cut  back  to 
the  next  tier,  and  other  leader  shoots  will  form  there ;  and  so  on 
till  the  stock  is  used  up. 

Arbutus  (Strawberry  Tree).     Ericacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  sand  in  early 
spring  or  in  autumn,  and  by  veneer-grafting,  budding  or  inarching 
on  A.  Unedo.  Propagated  also  by  cuttings  from  half-ripened 
wood  in  autumn,  placed  in  sandy  peat  soil  under  glass.  Layers 
usually  take  two  years  to  root. 

Archangelica.      Umhelliferce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  autumn  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  the 
following  spring  in  severe  climates. 

Archontophoenix.     PalmaceoB. 

Propagation  by  seeds  in  heat.     See  Palms,  page  377. 

Arctostaphylos  and  Arctous.     Ericacece. 

Propagation  as  for  arbutus,  which  see ;  mostly  by  division  of 
the  plants  when  possible,  and  also  by  seeds  and  cuttings.     If  cut- 


THE    NURSERY-LIST  241 

tings  are  taken  in  January  and  placed  in  sand  in  bottom  heat, 
they  root  readily. 

Arctotis.     CompositcB. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  in  mild  heat.  The  commonly  cultivated 
kinds  are  tender  annuals  and  may  be  raised  readily  from  seeds 
sown  in  the  open  when  weather  is  warm,  or  started  indoors. 

Ardisia.     Myrsinaceae. 

Handled  by  seeds  and  cuttings.  The  latter  should  be  taken 
from  young  shoots  of  half-matured  wood,  and  placed  in  a  cutting- 
bed  with  a  top  and  bottom  temperature  of  70°.  The  cuttings  may 
be  readily  obtained  from  old  plants  that  have  been  cut  back.  They 
should  root  in  a  month.  Choose  cuttings  only  from  plants  of  good 
berry-bearing  habit.  Cuttings  give  more  compact  or  shorter 
plants  than  seedlings.  Seedlings  give  fruiting  plants  the  following 
year.  Usually  seeds  are  sown  in  late  winter  or  early  spring,  and 
plants  are  ready  for  potting  in  early  summer.  Seeds  often 
germinate  slowly. 

Areca  (Cabbage  Palm).     PalmacecB. 

Grown  from  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  a  gentle  heat  and 
kept  moist.     See  Palms,  page  377. 

Aregelia.     Bromeliaceae, 

Propagation  as  for  billbergia,  which  see. 

Arenaria  (Sandwort).     CaryophyllaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  division  and  cuttings ;  the  last  placed 
in  a  propagating-box  or  frame  will  root  freely.  Seeds  should  be 
sown  in  spring  in  a  coldframe.  The  best  time  to  divide  the  plant 
is  early  spring,  or  in  summer  after  most  of  the  growth  is  made. 
Cuttings  are  employed  for  rare  species  or  varieties. 

Arenga.     PalmacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds.     See  Palms,  page  377. 

Argemone  (Argemony).     PapaveraceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  outdoors  in  spring 
where  they  are  to  stand  or  else  started  in  a  hotbed. 

A.rgyreia  (Silver  Weed).     ConvolvulacecB. 

Handled  by  cuttings,  which  will  do  well  in  sand  under  glass,  in 
gentle  bottom  heat.  May  also  be  increased  by  seeds,  when  obtain- 
able. 


242  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Arisaema  (Indian  Turnip).     Araceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  division  as  for  arum.  See  Aracece, 
page  239. 

Aristolochia  (Birthwort).     Aristolochiaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  layers.  The  seeds  must  be  fresh. 
Cuttings  of  tender  sorts  root  freely  in  sand,  with  bottom  heat. 
A.  elegans,  frequently  seen  under  glass,  grows  readily  from  seeds 
which  may  be  had  of  dealers.  The  dutchman's  pipe  {A.  macro- 
phylla,  often  known  as  A.  Sipho)  fruits  freely  when  old  and  the 
seeds  are  used  to  propagate  it. 

Armeria  (Thrift.  Sea  Pink).     PlumbaginacecB. 

Increased  by  division,  separate  pieces  being  planted  as  cuttings 
out-of-doors.     Seeds  are  sometimes  used,  when  obtainable. 

Arnebia.     BoraginacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds.  Cuttings  of  the  strong  shoots,  taken  with 
a  heel,  root  slowly.     Root-cuttings  may  be  used  for  some  kinds. 

Arnica.     Compositce. 

Multiplied  by  seeds  sown  in  a  frame  in  spring ;  also  by  division 
in  spring. 

Aronia  (Chokeberry).     Rosacea. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  fall  or  stratified ;  also  by  suckers 
and  layers,  or  by  greenwood  cuttings  under  glass.  By  many 
botanists  retained  in  the  genus  Pyrus. 

Artabotrys.     Annonaceae. 

Propagated  mostly  by  seeds ;  and  in  the  North  by  cuttings  of 
ripened  wood  in  spring  in  sand  under  a  frame,  w^th  bottom  heat. 
Treatment  similar  to  annona,  which  see. 

Artemisia  (Mugwort.  Southernwood.  Wormwood).     CompositoB. 

The  annuals  are  propagated  by  seeds,  and  also  the  perennials 
of  such  kinds  as  produce  seeds.  The  perennial  kinds  are  commonly 
increased  by  dividing  the  clumps. 

Artichoke  (Cynara  Scolymus).     Compositce. 

Grown  from  seeds.  Although  the  plant  is  perennial,  a  new 
stock  should  be  started  about  every  other  year.  It  is  increased 
also  by  suckers  or  division  of  the  stools,  particularly  when  it  is 
desired  to  perpetuate  special  varieties  or  strains.     Seeds  are  likely 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  243 

to  give  more  variable  results  and  to  be  unsatisfactory  unless  very 
carefully  selected ;  if  seeds  are  started  early,  edible  heads  may  be 
had  the  same  year,  but  usually  not  till  the  second  year.  For 
divisions,  the  buds  or  shoots  are  detached  from  the  old  crown  in 
spring  before  growth  begins. 

Artichoke,  Jerusalem  {Helianthus  tuber osus).     CompositoB. 

Commonly  multiplied  by  means  of  the  tubers,  which  may  be 
planted  whole  or  cut  into  eyes,  after  the  manner  of  potatoes. 
Seeds  are  very  rarely  used.  The  plant  is  hardy  and  persistent, 
and  propagates  itself  strongly. 

Artocarpus  (Bread-Fruit).     Moraceoe. 

Grown  from  cuttings  of  the  young  lateral  growth ;  also  from 
suckers,  when  they  form  ;  by  seeds,  when  procurable. 

Arum.     Araceoe. 

Several  very  unlike  plants  bear  the  name  arum  in  cultivation,  as 
dracunculus,  helicodiceros,  amorphophallus ;  propagation  is 
similar  for  all  of  them.  Most  of  them  produce  offsets  from  the 
tubers  or  rhizomes.  The  seeds  or  berries  may  be  planted  when  ripe 
or  stratified  until  spring.     See  Araceoe,  page  239. 

Arundinaria  (Wild  Cane.  Bamboo).     GraminecB. 
Multiplied  by  division.     See  Bamhusa. 

Arundo  (Reed).     Gramineoe. 

Multiplied  by  division.  In  early  autumn,  the  canes  can  be  cut 
into  lengths  of  18  to  24  inches  for  cuttings,  and  parti}'  buried  in 
sand  in  a  gentle  bottom  heat,  laying  them  horizontally.  It  seldom 
seeds,  at  least  in  the  North. 

Asclepias  (Milkw^eed.   Silkweed).     AsclepiadaceoB. 

The  glasshouse  kinds  are  increased  by  cuttings  in  spring  in 
gentle  heat,  under  glass.  Seeds  of  A.  tuberosa  must  be  sown  or 
stratified  as  soon  as  gathered.  Seeds  of  most  native  kinds  are  pro- 
duced freely,  and  should  give  strong  flowering  plants  the  second  or 
third  year.     Some  kinds  may  be  multiplied  by  division. 

Asimina  (Papaw  ;  see  Papaya) .     AnnonaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  autumn,  or  stratified  and  sown  in 
spring ;  do  not  let  the  seeds  dry  out.  The  seedlings  may  be  raised 
in  pots.  Also  increased  by  layers  made  in  autumn,  and  by  root- 
cuttings. 


244  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Asparagus.     LiliacexB. 

The  common  kitchen-garden  asparagus  is  best  propagated  by 
means  of  seeds.  These  are  sown  in  spring  as  soon  as  the  ground 
can  be  worked,  usually  in  rows  a  foot  or  two  apart.  Thin  the  young 
plants  to  2  or  3  inches  apart  in  the  row  and  give  good  culture ; 
the  plants  may  be  set  in  the  field  the  following  spring,  and  they  will 
give  a  fair  crop  after  growing  there  two  seasons.  Small  growers 
usually  buy  plants  of  nurserymen.  Old  asparagus  crowns  can  be 
divided,  but  seeds  give  better  plants. 

The  ornamental  species  of  asparagus  are  propagated  by  seeds 
when  they  are  obtainable ;  otherwise,  by  division  and  separation 
of  the  root  tubers.  A.  asyaragoides,  the  smilax  of  greenhouses, 
is  increased  by  seeds,  which  germinate  readily.  The  roots  may 
also  be  divided,  but  seeds  are  to  be  preferred.  Seeds  sown  in 
February  should  give  strings  for  cutting  the  following  winter. 
The  young  plants  are  weak  and  should  be  handled  in  pots ;  they 
should  be  ready  for  planting  in  permanent  quarters  by  mid- 
summer. 

The  so-called  asparagus  fern  {A.  plumosu^s)  is  readily  grown  from 
seeds,  although  seeds  are  rarely  produced  by  the  dwarf  form  (var. 
nanus).  Strings  for  cutting  may  be  had  at  the  end  of  the  second 
year,  or  later,  after  the  seeds  are  sown.  As  soon  as  the  berries  are 
ripe,  they  should  be  picked  and  dried  for  a  month  or  so  before 
planting. 

Asperula  (Woodruff).     Rubiacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  and  by  division  of  the  roots  or  clumps  in 
spring  and  early  summer.  The  common  A.  odorata  naturally 
spreads  rapidly. 

Asphodeline.     Liliaceoe. 

Propagated  by  division  in  spring  or  fall,  and  by  seeds. 

Asphodelus  (Asphodel).     Liliaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  and  by  division  of  the  root  or  clump  in 
fall  or  spring. 

Aspidistra.     Liliaceoe. 

Propagated  by  division  of  the  crown  in  early  spring,  and  by 
suck^s.     Old  plants  divide  readily  when  repotting. 

Asplenium.     Polypodiaceoe. 

Propagated  by  division  and  by  spores.     See  Ferns,  page  312. 


THE   NVRSERY-LIST  245 

Aster  (Aster.  Starwort.  Michaelmas  Daisy).     CompositcB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  spring,  and  by  root-division  in 
autumn  or  spring  ;  also  by  cuttings,  which  root  freely  in  sandy  soil 
under  a  glass.  In  general,  seeds  grow  freely.  The  common  native 
asters  may  be  handled  as  seedlings  or  by  division  of  stools.  The 
named  garden  asters  (perennials)  are  increased  by  division  and  by 
cuttings ;  seeds  may  be  used,  but  they  may  not  reproduce  the 
variety.     For  China  aster,  see  Callistephus,  page  267. 

Astilbe.     SaxifragaccoB. 

Propagated  by  division  in  early  spring,  and  by  seeds,  if  they  are 
produced,  sown  in  early  spring  in  the  greenhouse.  Division  of  the 
plants  in  the  common  method. 

Astragalus  (Milk  Vetch).     Lcguminosce. 

Grown  from  seeds,  which  germinate  slowly ;  stratification  may 
be  advisable  in  some  cases.  Cuttings  are  sometimes  used,  struck 
under  gentle  heat.  Division  may  be  employed  if  stools  are  large, 
but  divided  plants  often  die.     Seed  propagation  is  to  be  preferred. 

Astrocaryum.     Palmacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  in  spring  under  glass ;  also  by  suckers, 
when  produced.     See  Palms,  page  377. 

Atalantia.     Rutaceae. 

Handled  by  ripened  cuttings,  which  root  in  sandy  soil  under  a 
glass ;   also  by  seeds  when  obtainable. 

Atriplex.     Chenopodiacece. 

Grown  from  seed  with  readiness ;  shrubby  kinds  also  by  soft 
cuttings.     See  Orach,  page  370. 

Aubrietia.     Cruciferoe. 

Multiplied  by  seeds,  layers,  cuttings,  division.  Seeds  may  be 
sown  in  spring  in  a  frame.  The  slender  branches  may  be  layered 
with  good  results.  Cuttings  may  be  taken  from  bright  growing 
shoots. 

Aucuba.     CornacecB. 

Readily  increased  by  seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  mature ;  and  by 
half -ripe  greenwood  cuttings  struck  under  glass.  The  kinds  propa- 
gate by  cuttings  in  a  cool  house.  The  varieties  are  sometimes 
grafted  on  the  common  form  in  early  spring,  under  glass.  The 
plant  is  tender  at  the  North. 


246  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Auricula  {Primula  Auricula).     Primulacece. 

Choice  or  named  varieties  are  propagated  by  natural  offsets,  or 
by  dividing  the  plants.  Seeds  grow  readily  but  may  not  be 
expected  to  reproduce  the  horticultural  forms.  They  should  be 
sown  in  pans  or  pots  in  early  spring  (as  March),  pressed  lightly 
into  the  soil  and  thinly  covered ;  provide  temperature  of  about 
60° ;  germination  takes  place  in  three  or  four  weeks ;  as  soon  as 
large  enough,  prick  off  into  pans  or  flats  and  grow  carefully. 

Averrhoa.     Oxalidacece. 

Handled  in  spring  by  half-ripened  cuttings,  under  glass,  with 
bottom  heat ;  by  seeds  when  obtainable. 

Avocado  {Per sea  americana).     Lauracece. 

Budded  stock  is  to  be  preferred  to  seedlings.  Shield-budding  is 
usually  employed,  in  late  autumn  or  winter  in  Florida,  and  May  or 
June  in  California.  Inarching  and  grafting  under  glass  are  also 
practiced,  and  cuttings  struck  over  bottom  heat.  The  seedling 
stocks  are  raised  in  the  open,  the  seeds  being  planted  in  pots  or 
directly  in  ground  as  soon  as  ripe.  Germination  should  take 
place  in  two  or  three  weeks ;  plants  should  stand  a  foot  or  so  apart 
in  the  rows.  The  fruit  is  sometimes  called  alligator  pear,  but 
this  name  should  be  discouraged.     See  Persea,  page  389. 

Azalea.     Ericacece. 

Although  azaleas  and  rhododendrons  are  united  generically  by 
many  botanists,  horticulturists  usually  think  of  them  separately. 
The  azaleas  are  of  two  cultural  groups,  —  the  Indian  or  green-' 
house  evergreen  kinds,  and  the  hardy  deciduous  kinds. 

The  Indian  azaleas  {Azalea  indica  or  Rhododendron  indicum) 
are  usually  propagated  by  cuttings  and  grafting.  The  cuttings 
are  preferably  made  of  half-ripened  wood  in  August,  being  struck 
in  a  frame  with  light  bottom  heat.  The  choicer  varieties  may  be 
tongue-grafted  or  veneer-grafted  either  in  summer  or  winter  on 
cutting-grown  stocks,  handling  them  in  a  frame  or  propagating- 
house.  New  varieties  originate  from  seeds,  which  are  sown  in 
frames  or  pots  in  spring ;  the  soil  should  be  sandy  peat,  or  seeds 
may  be  sown  in  chopped  sphagnum  and  plants  pricked  out  as 
soon  as  possible.  The  young  plants  are  handled  in  boxes  or  frames ; 
they  should  bloom  in  two  or  three  years. 

The  deciduous  outdoor  azaleas  are  of  many  kinds.  The  Ghent 
azaleas  are  hybrids  of  A.  sinensis,  A.  japonica  or  mollis,  and  others. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  247 

The  deciduous  azaleas  grow  readily  from  seeds,  handled  as  for  A. 
indica.  The  named  kinds  are  grown  from  heel-cuttings  of  mature 
wood  taken  in  late  summer  and  placed  under  glass.  They  are  also 
veneer-grafted  on  any  common  deciduous  potted  stock  in  autumn 
under  glass. 


Babiana.     Iridacece. 

Multiplied  quickly  by  seeds  in  pans  in  a  mild  heat.  Also  propa- 
gated by  offsets  or  cormels  in  boxes  or  planted  in  the  open.  A 
year  or  two  is  required  to  produce  blooming  plants. 

Baccharis  (Groundsel  Tree).     Compositce. 

Propagation  is  by  seeds,  and  by  cuttings  struck  under  glass. 

B>ictris.     Palmaceoe. 

Handled  by  suckers,  which  generally  arise  and  grow  freely. 
Rarely  propagated  by  seeds.     See  Palms,  page  377. 

Balm  {Melissa  officinalis).     Labiatoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  outdoors  or  in  a  frame ;   also  division. 

Balsam  {hnpatiens  Balsamina  and  others).     BalsaminacecB. 

Seeds  of  the  garden  balsam  may  be  sown  directly  in  the  garden 
when  the  weather  becomes  warm,  as  is  the  practice  in  most  parts 
of  the  United  States,  or  they  may  be  started  indoors  and  trans- 
planted for  earlier  bloom.  /.  Sultani  is  better  raised  from  seeds 
than  from  cutttings.  The  greenhouse  species  are  multiplied  by 
seeds,  or  by  cuttings  in  close  frames. 

Bambusa  (Bamboo.     See  also  Arundinaria).     Graminece. 

Propagated  by  division  of  established  clumps  in  early  spring, 
as  new  growth  is  beginning.  The  operation  should  be  performed 
with  care,  so  as  not  to  injure  the  eyes.  If  young  shoots  are  layered, 
leave  only  the  end  exposed.     Seeds  are  rarely  obtainable. 

Banana  and  Plantain  {Musa  sapientum,  M.  paradisiaca  and  others). 
MusaceoB. 
Edible  bananas  rarely  produce  seeds.  The  young  plants  are 
obtained  from  suckers,  which  spring  from  the  main  rootstock. 
These  suckers  are  transplanted  when  2  or  3  feet  high.  These 
plants  themselves  may  not  produce  as  good  crops  as  the  suckers  which 
arise  from  them,  and  are  not  transplanted.     Two  or  three  suckers 


248  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

are  sufficient  for  a  plant  at  a  time;  what  others  arise  should  be 
transplanted  or  destroyed.  The  suckers  should  be  set  deep,  as 
low  as  2  feet  for  best  results.  In  fifteen  or  eighteen  months  the 
plants  will  bloom,  if  they  have  had  good  care.  The  stem  bears 
fruit  but  once,  but  new  stems  arise  to  take  its  place.  The  orna- 
mental species,  as  M.  Ensete,  and  others,  are  propagated  by  seeds 
in  heat,  or  by  suckers.     See  Musa. 

Barkeria :  Epidendrum. 

Basella.     BasellaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  either  under  glass  or  in  the  open. 

Basil  {Ocimum  basilicum  and  0.  minimum).     LabiatoB. 

Grown  from  seeds,  sown  in  a  hotbed  or  outdoors,  as  soon  as  the 
weather  is  settled;   easily  managed. 

Bauera.     SaxifragacecB. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood  in  spring ;  cut 
into  lengths  of  about  2  inches,  insert  in  equal  parts  of  finely  sifted 
peat  and  sharp  sand  in  3-inch  pots,  cover  with  a  bell-glass  in  a  green- 
house with  temperature  from  55°  to  60°. 

Bauhinia  (Mountain  Ebony).     Leguminosoe. 

Propagated  by  suckers,  and  also  by  seeds  when  obtainable. 
Cuttings  usually  root  with  difficulty.  Wood  of  intermediate  age 
is  taken,  and  the  cuttings  placed  in  sand  in  heat. 

Bean.     LeguminosoB. 

Grown  from  seeds ;  sow  only  after  the  weather  is  thoroughly 
settled  for  outdoor  culture,  as  the  plants  are  very  tender.  Lima 
beans  should  not  be  sown  till  a  week  or  ten  days  after  it  is  safe  to 
sow  the  common  kinds.  The  broad  or  Windsor  bean  {Vicia  Faba) 
is  a  hardy  plant  and  the  seeds  may  be  sown  early,  as  for  peas. 
Soybean  (Glycine  Soja)  is  tender,  and  seeds  are  sown  when  weather 
is  warm  where  plants  are  to  stand ;  plants  usually  stand  in  hills 
18  to  20  inches  apart,  the  rows  being  2  to  3  feet  apart. 

Beaucarnea :    Nolina. 
Beaumontia.     Apocynaceoe. 

Handled  by  cuttings,  as  for  allamanda. 

Beet  (Beta  vulgaris).     Chenopodiacece. 

Grown  from  seeds,  sown  very  early,  for  the  early  crop  before 
frosts  cease.     The  "  seeds  '^  are  really  fruits  usually  containing 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  249 

more  than  one  seed,  so  that  much  thinning  may  be  necessary  after 
the  plants  are  up. 

Begonia.     Begoniaceoe. 

Begonias  are  of  such  divers  kinds  that  many  methods  of  prop- 
agation are  employed.  Cuttings  of  stems,  rhizomes  or  leaves  are 
commonly  used,  although  seeds  grow  readily  if  given  careful 
attention,  and  they  produce  excellent  plants. 

Seeds  of  begonia  are  very  small.  They  should  be  thoroughly 
ripe  and  kept  dry  till  sowing.  Sow  on  the  surface  of  the  soil  in 
pans  or  pots,  sift  a  very  little  fine  earth  on  them,  and  cover  with  a 
pane  of  glass.  See  that  the  earth  is  uniformly  moist  before  the 
seed  is  sown,  and  water  with  great  care.  Seed-pans  should  be  kept 
in  a  propagating-frame  or  at  least  in  a  place  free  from  drafts  and 
strong  direct  sunshine,  at  a  temperature  of  about  65°  to  70°.  As 
soon  as  the  plants  are  big  enough  to  handle,  prick  out  into  pans  or 
flats,  giving  plenty  of  room. 

The  foliage  begonias  are  grown  from  cuttings  of  stems  or  leaves, 
at  a  temperature  of  about  70°.  Of  the  erect  stem-bearing  species 
cuttings  may  be  taken  of  fresh  strong  stems  in  spring,  giving  good 
blooming  plants  for  the  following  late  winter  and  spring.  Some 
kinds  make  creeping  or  rambling  rhizomes,  and  division  may  be 
practiced.  B.  phyllomaniaca  produces  plantlets  along  the  stem 
and  on  the  leaves ;  these  may  be  severed  and  planted.  B.  diver- 
sifolia  bears  tubers  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves. 

The  rex  begonias  are  grown  from  cuttings  of  mature  but  vigorous 
leaves.  Three  methods  may  be  employed :  (1)  The  entire  leaf 
may  be  placed  flat  on  the  soil  of  propagating-bed,  under  surface 
down,  and  pegged  or  weighted  down  to  hold  it  steadily  in  place. 
The  principal  nerves  or  ribs  are  severed,  or  cut  beneath,  and  at 
these  places  plantlets  will  form.  (2)  The  leaf  may  be  cut  into 
two  parts,  and  either  part,  or  the  stronger  part,  stood  on  the  cut 
edge  in  the  soil.  Plantlets  will  form  along  the  lower  edge.  (3) 
The  leaf  may  be  cut  into  several  wedge-shaped  parts,  each  part 
having  at  its  point  a  bit  of  the  top  of  the  petiole  or  leaf-stalk. 
The  point  is  inserted  in  the  soil.  One  or  two  or  more  plants  will 
form  on  each  wedge.     See  Figs.  107-109. 

Begonias  of  the  Gloire  de  Lorraine  type  are  grown  from  cuttings 
of  well-ripened  medium-sized  leaves.  If  taken  in  early  winter 
and  the  young  plants  kept  growing  vigorously,  strong  blooming 
plants  should  be  had  for  the  following  midwinter. 


250  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Derivatives  of  B.  socofrana  are  grown  from  the  bulbels,  that 
usuallv  form  f  reel  v. 

Tuberous  begonias  may  be  propagated  by  seeds,  cuttings,  and 
by  division  of  the  tubers.  They  are  commonly  grown  from  seeds, 
which  should  be  sown  early  in  spring,  and  the  seedlings  pricked  off 
and  shifted  regularly.  Cuttings  of  the  young  rapidly-growing 
shoots,  if  taken  as  soon  as  the  plants  are  4  to  6  inches  high,  will 
form  good  tubers  by  fall.  Cuttings  made  while  the  plants  are  in 
flower  rarely  produce  tubers  of  much  value ;  B.  boliviensis  and 
B.  Vcitchii  are  particularly  likely  to  fail  in  this  respect.  The 
cuttings  should  be  2  to  4  inches  in  length,  the  low^er  cut  being 
just  beneath  a  joint ;  remove  one  or  two  of  the  lowest  leaves  and 
insert  singly  near  the  edge  of  thumb-pots  filled  with  a  soil  com- 
posed of  about  equal  parts  sand,  leaf-mold  and  loam.  Place  in  a 
cool  shaded  position,  applying  water  only  to  prevent  flagging. 
Dividing  the  tubers  is  an  unsatisfactory  method  of  propagation. 
If  employed,  the  tubers  should  be  cut  before  active  growth  begins, 
so  that  each  part  shall  have  an  eye  or  crown.  They  are  then 
treated  as  separate  tubers.  Begonias  which  have  not  been  im- 
proved are  most  easily  and  rapidly  propagated  from  seed ;  the 
named  or  improved  varieties  are  best  increased  by  cuttings. 

Belamcanda,  including  Pardanthus  (Blackberry  Lily).     Iridaceoe. 

Increased  by  seeds,  division  and  cuttings  of  young  growth.  The 
blackberry  lily  (B.  chinensis)  propagates  readily  by  division  and  by 
seeds,  the  latter  being  freely  produced 

Bellis  (English  Daisy).     Compositoo. 

Increased  readily  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in  early  spring. 
Also  propagated  by  division  after  flowering.  Seeds  do  not  always 
reproduce  the  special  kind,  and  choice  forms  are  multiplied  by 
division. 

Benincasa.     Cucurbit  acece. 

The  wax  gourd  is  readily  raised  from  seeds  planted  after  the 
weather  is  warm  ;  handle  same  as  for  melons. 

Benthamia:   Cornus. 

Berberidopsis.     FlacourtiaceoB. 

Multiplied  by  seeds  in  spring,  by  layering  in  autumn,  and  by 
young  greenwood  cuttings  in  spring. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  251 

Berberis  (Barberry).     Berheridaceae. 

Propagated  by  stratified  seeds,  and  by  suckers,  layers  and 
cuttings  of  mature  wood.  Seeds  should  be  sown  in  flats  or  broad- 
cast in  beds  in  the  fall ;  seeds  of  rare  kinds  should  be  sown  in  the 
greenhouse.  Most  barberries  can  be  propagated  from  green 
cuttings  of  the  young  wood  taken  from  the  first  to  the  middle  of 
June,  and  placed  in  sand  in  a  shaded  hotbed.  Layers  are  usually 
allowed  to  remain  two  years.  Rare  sorts  are  sometimes  grafted 
on  common  stocks. 

Berchemia.     Rhamnaceoe. 

Propagated  by  layering  young  shoots  In  autumn ;  by  cuttings 
of  mature  wood  and  root-cuttings  under  glass ;   and  also  by  seeds. 

Bertolonia.     Melastomaceoe. 

Grown  from  seeds  and  cuttings.  Also  by  healthy  ripened  leaves 
which,  if  the  midrib  be  nicked  in  several  places  and  then  pegged 
on  a  pot  of  sandy  peat,  soon  form  roots  and  tiny  tubers  at  every 
incision.     Place  in  a  moist  propagating-frame. 

Bessera.     Liliaceoe. 

Usually  propagated  by  offsets. 

Beta:  Beet. 

Betula  (Birch).     Betulacew. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  must  be  sown  as  soon  as  gathered,  or 
else  stratified ;  sow  rather  thickly  in  sandy  soil,  slightly  or  not  at 
all  covered,  but  pressed  firmly  into  the  ground  and  kept  moist  and 
shady.  Propagated  also  by  layers  and  rarely  by  greenwood 
cuttings  under  glass ;  also  by  grafting  or  budding  on  seedling 
stocks  of  B.  lenta,  B.  papyrifera,  B.  nigra  or  B.  pendula.  The 
grafting  is  sometimes  performed  in  spring  under  glass  on  potted 
stock,  but  usually  the  stocks  are  budded  in  summer. 

Biennials. 

Plants  that  bloom  and  die  the  second  year  from  seed,  having 
flowered  once,  are  biennials  or  two-year  subjects.  The  number 
of  true  biennials  in  the  vegetable  kingdom  is  relatively  small. 
The  teasel,  pasture  mullein  {Verhascum  Thapsus),  and  common 
evening  primrose  (CEnothera  hiemiis)  are  examples.  In  the  garden, 
the  honesty  or  lunaria  is  an  example ;  also  the  Allegheny  vine 
or  adlumia,  and  the  Canterbury  bell. 


252  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Many  of  the  short-lived  perennials  bloom  most  strongly  the 
second  year  from  seed,  and  they  are  treated  as  biennials  by  gar- 
deners. Examples  are  foxglove,  sweet  Wilham,  hollyhock,  and 
some  of  the  larkspurs  and  campanulas.  Others  are  treated  both 
as  annuals  and  biennials,  as  snapdragon  and  pansy,  although 
perhaps  really  perennial. 

Most  of  the  plants  known  in  gardens  as  biennials  may  be  grown 
from  seeds  sown  in  summer,  preferably  in  flats  in  a  frame.  In 
autumn  the  young  plants  may  be  transferred  to  their  blooming 
quarters,  or  they  may  be  transplanted  to  other  flats  or  to  pots 
and  carried  over  winter  in  a  frame.  If  started  in  spring,  many 
of  the  kinds  become  too  large  by  autumn  to  handle  well,  and 
they  may  even  begin  to  bloom  and  weaken  themselves  for  next 
year's  use.  Fresh  strong  well-leaved  rosettes  or  clumps  are 
needed  in  spring  to  produce  the  best  bloom  for  the  year.  Some 
of  the  strongest  plants  of  the  perennial-biennials  may  be  carried 
over  for  a  second  season  of  bloom,  as  the  hollyhock,  but  the  best 
results  are  not  usually  to  be  had  by  this  practice,  specially  of  the 
highly  bred  types. 

Particular  strains  may  be  propagated  asexually,  by  cuttings  and 
sometimes  by  division  and  ofl^sets.  The  cuttings  are  treated  in 
practically  the  same  way  as  seedlings. 

If  one  has  a  greenhouse  or  well-heated  hotbed,  some  of  the 
biennials  may  be  made  to  bloom  the  first  year  by  starting  the 
seeds  in  winter  or  early  spring  and  carrying  them  forward  briskly. 
In  this  case,  the  plants  are  practically  annual,  and  usually  are 
not  bloomed  the  second  season. 

Bifrenaria.     OrchidacecB. 

Propagated  by  offsets  and  division.     See  Orchids,  page  372. 

Bignonia.     Bignoniacece. 

The  plants  known  to  cultivators  as  bignonia  are  now  distributed 
in  several  genera.  Increase  is  by  seeds,  when  obtainable.  Stout 
short-jointed  side  growths  make  good  cuttings  of  the  greenhouse 
species,  taken  in  spring  and  kept  in  a  warm  propagating-box. 
Rooting  takes  place  in  six  to  ten  weeks  if  they  are  carefully 
watered  and  handled. 

Billbergia.     BromeliacecB. 

As  seeds  are  rarely  obtainable  under  cultivation,  the  plants  are 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  253 

propagated  by  the  suckers  that  naturally  arise  after  the  old  plant 
has  ceased  flowering.  The  suckers  should  not  be  removed  until 
they  are  firm  and  well  grown.  The  lower  end  is  trimmed  of  its 
poor  leaves  and  the  sucker  is  then  potted  or  mounted  as  for  estab- 
lished plants ;  they  are  stimulated  by  bottom  heat,  and  should  be 
shaded  for  a  time. 

Blackberry  (Rubus  species).     Rosaceae. 

New  varieties  are  obtained  from  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  as 
soon  as  they  are  cleaned  from  the  ripe  fruit,  or  which  may  be 
stratified  until  the  next  spring.  If  the  soil  is  in  prime  condition, 
fall  sowing  is  preferable.  Bearing  plants  should  be  had  in  two  or 
three  years  from  seed,  depending  on  length  of  season  and  method 
of  handling. 

Varieties  are  multiplied  by  suckers,  by  root-cuttings  and 
tips  of  the  canes.  The  suckers  spring  up  freely  about  the  old 
plants,  especially  if  the  roots  are  broken  by  the  cultivator ;  but 
they  have  few  fibrous  roots,  and  are  inferior.  The  best  plants 
are  obtained  from  root-cuttings  (Fig.  103).  Roots  from  |^  to  f  inch 
in  diameter  are  selected  for  this  purpose.  The  roots  are  dug  in 
the  fall,  cut  into  pieces  1  to  3  inches  long,  and  stored  until  early 
spring.  They  may  be  buried  in  boxes  of  sand  after  the  manner 
of  stratified  seeds,  or  stored  in  a  cool  cellar;  callusing  pro- 
ceeds most  rapidly  in  cellar.  The  pieces  are  planted  horizon- 
tally an  inch  or  two  deep,  in  loose,  rich  soil.  It  is  best  to 
put  them  in  a  frame  and  give  them  slight  bottom  heat,  although 
they  will  grow  if  planted  in  the  open  in  April  or  May,  but  the 
plants  will  make  much  less  growth  the  first  season.  Some  va- 
rieties do  not  strike  quickly  without  bottom  heat.  When  the 
variety  is  scarce,  shorter  and  slenderer  pieces  of  root  may  be 
used,  but  these  demand  bottom  heat.  The  heat  in  the  frames 
is  usually  supplied  by  manure,  or  the  heat  of  the  sun  under  the 
glass  may  be  sufficient.  In  these  frames  the  cuttings  may  be 
started  in  the  North  late  in  March,  or  some  six  or  eight  weeks 
before  the  plants  can  be  set  outdoors  without  protection.  When 
the  weather  has  become  somewhat  settled,  the  plants  may  be 
planted  out,  and  by  fall  they  will  be  2  to  3  feet  high ;  they  may 
yield  a  few  fruits  the  following  year. 

The  Himalaya  berry.  Evergreen,  Dallas,  McDonald  and  certain 
other  blackberries  are  propagated  either  wholly  or  in  part  by  the 
tips  of  canes,  as  are  black  raspberries. 


254  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Blandfordia.     Liliaceoe. 

Multiplied  by  seeds  sown  in  sandy  peat  with  mild  bottom  heat ; 
by  offsets ;  and  by  division  of  the  old  plants,  which  must  be  per- 
formed when  repotting  in  early  spring. 

Blechnum.     Poly  pod  iaceoe. 

Propagated  by  spores  and  by  division  from  the  end  of  the  rhi- 
zome.    See  Ferns,  page  312. 

Bletia  and  Bletilla.      Orchidaceae. 

These  are  terrestrial,  and  their  flat  roundish  pseudobulbs  are 
usually  under  ground.  They  bear  division  well,  especially  Bletilla 
hyacinthina,  which  may  be  cut  up  into  pieces  consisting  of  a  single 
pseudobulb.     See  Orchids,  page  372. 

Blueberry  (Vaccinium  corymhosum,  and  other  species),  Ericaceae. 
(Frederick  V.  Coville.) 

Propagated  by  removing  and  perhaps  dividing  bushes  or  clumps 
from  the  wild ;  by  layers  ;  by  cuttings  ;  by  seeds  ;  by  gi'aftage. 

Seeds  washed  from  fresh  berries  and  sowed  at  once  in  two  parts 
of  peat  to  one  part  of  clean  sand  will  begin  to  germinate  in  two  to 
four  wrecks  if  the  night  temperature  is  kept  down  to  60°  F. 

Selected  and  hybrid  blueberries  do  not  "come  true"  from  seed. 
Lowbush  blueberries  which  spread  by  rootstocks  are  readily  prop- 
agated by  division,  but  highbush  blueberries  usually  have  no 
rootstocks  and  cannot  be  propagated  satisfactorily  in  this  way. 
Layering  and  mound-layering  are  easy  but  slow.  Soft-wood 
cuttings  root  with  great  difficulty  because  of  the  excessive  heat 
of  summer.  Various  special  methods  of  propagation  have  ;  een 
devised.  The  most  useful  of  these  are  "stumping"  (which,  like 
layering,  is  slow),  "tubering,"  and  winter  cuttings.  Budded 
plants  are  unsuitable  for  permanent  plantings  because  they  are 
continually  sending  up  new  and  undesirable  shoots  from  the 
stock,  but  budding  affords  the  quickest  means  of  growing  a  large 
amount  of  cutting-wood  from  a  valuable  young  hybrid.  Graft- 
ing is  more  difficult  and  less  satisfactory  than  budding. 

The  sand  used  in  cutting-beds  should  be  clean,  with  reference 
especially  to  clay,  bacteria,  lime,  and  salt ;  the  peat  either  bog 
or  upland,  but  formed  from  ericaceous  plants  and  taken  from 
near  the  surface ;    and  the  water  free  from  lime. 

Stumping.  —  Cut  the  bush  to  the  ground  in  the  dormant  season, 
outdoors.     Cover  the  stumps  2  to  3  inches  with  a  mixture  of  1 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  255 

part  of  sand  and  about  2  parts  of  peat.  Keep  this  bed  well  drained 
but  continually  moist.  The  new  growth  arising  from  the  stumps 
after  this  treatment  takes  the  form  of  erect  scaly  rootstocks  which 
continue  into  leafy  stems  and  which  tend  to  develop  roots  in  pro- 
fusion. In  the  following  spring,  before  growth  starts,  cut  the 
rooted  shoots  from  the  stumps,  removing  the  tops  down  to  about 
2  inches  from  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  set  the  plants  in  a 
peat  and  sand  soil  in  a  cool  half-shaded  situation  sheltered  from 
the  wind,  preferably  in  a  ventilated  frame. 

Tuhering.  —  This  method  involves  the  same  principle  employed 
in  stumping,  namely,  the  forcing  of  small  sprouts  in  such  way 
that  their  basal  portions  are  morphologically  scaly  rootstocks, 
with  a  strong  tendency  to  root-production.  Make  cuttings  3  to 
4  inches  long  from  unbranched  portions  of  old  and  hardened  stems, 
a  quarter  of  an  inch  to  an  inch  or  even  more  in  diameter,  from 
vigorous  bushes  grown  in  full  sunlight  and  therefore  with  wood 
well  stored  with  starch.  They  should  be  made  in  late  fall  and 
stored  in  clean  hardwood  sawdust,  preferably  basswood,  or  clean 
sphagnum  moss  for  two  months  or  more  at  a  temperature  of  32° 
to  40°  F.,  until  their  starch  has  been  transformed  to  sugar,  or 
made  in  early  spring  before  the  buds  begin  to  swell.  Start  them 
early,  in  a  cool  greenhouse  if  practicable,  otherwise  in  a  coldframe. 
Make  the  cutting-bed  of  1  part  of  peat  and  2  parts  of  sand,  or  of 
sawdust  and  peat  as  described  under  winter  cuttings.  Lay  the 
cuttings  horizontally  and  cover  them  about  f  of  an  inch  with 
the  same  material  as  the  cutting-bed.  Keep  the  temperature 
at  55°  to  65°  as  long  as  the  weather  permits,  using  shades 
suspended  over  the  frames  whenever  the  sun  tends  to  carry 
the  temperature  above  65°,  and  keep  the  atmosphere  saturated 
or  nearly  so  by  the  closing  of  the  sash.  The  sprouts  root  at 
the  base,  and  at  the  approach  of  warm  weather  the  old  cutting 
dies.  As  soon  as  the  sprouts  are  well  rooted,  the  frame  should  be 
gradually  adjusted  to  full  ventilation.  The  rooted  sprouts  may 
be  potted  then,  but  a  larger  percentage  become  established  if 
they  remain  in  the  cutting-bed  until  spring,  at  a  winter  tem- 
perature of  32°  to  40°  preferably ;  but  if  the  cutting-bed  is 
outdoors  it  should  be  mulched  with  leaves  during  winter  to  pre- 
vent injury  of  the  roots  from  the  "heaving"  of  the  soil  in 
repeated  freezing  and  thawing. 

Root-cuttings  often  make  excellent  plants  when  treated  in  the 
same  way  as  tubered  cuttings. 


256  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Winter  cuttings.  —  Make  the  cuttings  in  autumn  as  soon  as  the 
leaves  are  shed.  Use  well-ripened  unbranched  wood  of  the  season's 
growth,  produced  in  well-lighted  situations.  About  4  to  5  inches 
is  a  suitable  length.  If  a  greenhouse  is  available,  set  the  cuttings, 
upright  or  at  an  angle,  in  a  cutting-bed  of  4  parts  of  basswood 
sawdust  to  1  part  of  peat.  Maple  or  birch  sawdust  does  nearly 
as  well  as  basswood.  For  winter  cuttings,  sawdust  and  peat 
provide  a  better  cutting-bed  than  peat  and  sand.  Cedar  or 
pine  sawdust  is  too  acrid.  Keep  the  cutting-bed  at  a  temperature 
of  55°  to  65°  for  a  month,  when  the  cuttings  will  be  callused.  Then 
change  to  35°  at  night  and  60°  in  the  daytime.  After  about  two 
months,  the  starch-to-sugar  transformation  consequent  on  the  chill- 
ing will  have  taken  place  and  the  buds  will  begin  to  swell.  Then 
change  again  to  a  temperature  of  55°  at  night  and  about  60°  in  the 
daytime,  the  air  above  the  cutting-bed  being  kept  saturated  or 
nearly  so.  After  new  twigs  have  pushed  from  the  upper  buds, 
the  new  growth  has  been  terminated  by  the  browning  of  the 
tips,  and  the  new  leaves  have  reached  their  full  size  and  ac- 
quired the  dark  green  color  and  texture  of  maturit}^  roots  will 
begin  to  form  at  the  lower  ends  of  the  cuttings.  Rooting  is 
usually  followed  by  secondary  twig  growth.  Ventilation  may  then 
increase,  and  the  rooted  plants  be  treated  thereafter  as  described 
under  "tubering." 

If  no  greenhouse  is  available,  the  cuttings  should  be  made  in 
the  autumn,  laid  in  boxes,  covered  with  pure  moist  basswood  saw- 
dust, and  kept  in  an  incubator  for  a  month  at  a  temperature  of 
55°  to  60°,  in  order  to  callus.  For  the  remainder  of  the  winter 
the  boxes  should  be  kept  at  a  temperature  of  32°  to  40°,  and  as 
soon  as  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground  in  spring  the  cuttings  should 
be  set  very  carefully,  so  as  not  to  injure  the  calluses,  in  a  cutting- 
bed  of  sawdust  and  peat,  or  peat  and  sand,  as  already  described, 
in  a  coldframe.  The  frame  should  be  kept  as  near  55°  to  60°  as 
possible,  as  early  and  as  long  as  the  weather  permits.  The  later 
progress  and  treatment  of  the  cuttings  should  be  as  already  de- 
scribed. 

Budding. — For  stocks  use  the  strong  new  shoots  from  wild 
bushes  cut  to  the  ground  in  the  preceding  dormant  season.  Bud 
them  in  July  or  early  August.  Use  buds  from  selected  hybrids, 
choosing  from  the  season's  growth  those  whose  scales  have  turned 
brown.  In  the  hottest  weather  sticks  of  such  buds  can  be  carried 
safely  for  one  or  two  days  if  wrapped  in  clean  moist  muslin  and 


THE    NURSERY- LI  ST  257 

properly  packed  in  a  thermos  bottle  in  clean  chilled  sphagnum 
and  cracked  ice.  Bud  by  the  ordinary  shield  method,  with  a 
T-shaped  cut  and  unwaxed  raffia  wrapping.  Protect  the  wrapping 
from  rain  by  a  cone  of  paraffined  paper  tied  tightly  around  the 
stem,  or  in  situations  free  from  dust  and  dirt  omit  the  cones  but 
use  for  bud  wrappings  raffia  sterilized  by  boiling.  After  three 
weeks  the  bud  wrappings  may  be  removed  if  the  stock  is  choking 
seriously.  Early  in  the  following  spring  cut  off  the  stock  about 
half  an  inch  above  the  bud,  and  by  repeatedly  rubbing  all  stock 
sprouts,  allow  no  growth  from  the  bush  except  that  from  the  in- 
serted buds.     Tie  the  new  bud  shoots  to  stakes. 

Bocconia,     Papaveraceoe. 

Propagated  chiefly  by  suckers,  taken  from  old  plants  in  summer. 
Cuttings  from  the  axils  of  the  large  leaves  in  early  summer  will 
have  roots  before  winter.  Root-cuttings  of  B.  cor  data  {Macleaya 
cor  data)  strike  freely.     Easily  grown  from  seeds. 

Boehmeria.      Urticacew. 

Handled  by  division ;  also  by  seeds  when  obtainable. 

Boltonia.     Compositce. 

Multiplied  by  divisions  of  the  root  in  spring;  and  b.y  seeds. 

Bomarea.     AmaryllidaceGB. 

Multiplied  by  fresh  seeds,  in  a  warm  house ;  also  by  careful 
division  of  the  rhizome  with  some  of  the  roots  attached. 

Borage  (Borage).     Boraginaceae. 

Propagated  by  seeds  in  spring;  also  by  divisions  in  spring,  oi 
by  cuttings  in  a  frame  or  under  glass. 

Borassus.     PalmaceoB. 

Handled  by  seeds  in  a  strong  bottom  heat  and  abundant  mois- 
ture.    See  Palms,  page  377. 

Boronia.     RutacecB. 

Increased  by  seed  and  by  cuttings  of  young  or  half-ripened  wood. 
Place  these  in  a  thoroughly  drained  pot  with  a  compost  of  finely 
sifted  loam,  peat  and  sand,  with  1  inch  of  sand  on  the  surface,  and 
cover  with  a  bell-glass,  in  a  temperature  from  45°  to  50°.  Seeds 
similarly  treated  make  flowering  plants  the  same  season, 
s 


258  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Bougainvillea.      NyctaginaceoB. 

Handled  by  cuttings  from  the  half-ripened  wood  from  April  to 
June ;  place  in  sandy  soil  in  bottom  heat ;  keep  moist  at  tempera- 
ture 65°  to  70°.     Also  grown  from  root-cuttings. 

Boussingaultia  (Madeira  Vine).     Basstilacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  and  easily  by  means  of  the  tubercles  on 
the  stem;    also  by  the  underground  tubers. 

Bouvardia.     Rubiaccce. 

Commonly  propagated  by  root-cuttings,  which  strike  readily, 
the  larger  and  thicker  roots  are  taken  in  spring  for  this  purpose. 
Cuttings  of  shoots  are  also  used,  struck  in  heat ;  these  cuttings  are 
made  of  fresh  shoots  arising  from  plants  cut  back  after  bloom  and 
kept  at  comparative  rest  for  a  time.  The  cuttings  should  be  2 
inches  long  and  taken  with  a  heel,  and  placed  in  pots  in  brisk  bottom 
heat;  it  is  best  to  put  the  pots  in  a  propagating-frame  till  roots 
form. 

Bowiea.     LiliaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or  offsets  from  the  great  bulbs.  The  name 
of  this  remarkable  plant  is  now  Schizobasopsis  wlubilis,  rather  than 
Bowiea  volubilis. 

Brachycome  (Swan  River  Daisy).     Compositop. 

Multiplied  by  seeds  in  early  spring,  and  transplanted ;  or  they 
may  be  sown  thinly  outdoors,  late  in  spring  in  regions  of  long 
seasons.     Easily  grown. 

Brahea.     PalmaceoB. 

Grown  from  seeds  in  heat.     See  Palms,  page  377. 

Bramble   Fruits:     Blackberry,    Dewberry,    Loganberry,    Raspberry, 
Wineberry. 

Brassavola.     Orchidaceoe. 

Increased  by  division.     See  Orchids,  page  372. 

Brassia.     Orchidaceoe. 

Propagated  by  dividing  the  plant  when  growth  begins.     See 
Orchids,  page  372. 

Brassica :    Brussels  Sprouts,  Cabbage,  Cauliflower,  Collards,   Kale, 
Kohlrabi,  Turnip.     All  readily  grown  from  seeds ;    hardy. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  259 

Briza  (Quaking  Grass).     GramineoB. 

Multiplied  by  seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand. 

Brodiaea,  including  Hookera.     LiliacccB. 

Propagated  by  offsets,  which  soon  bloom  when  separated.  Will 
also  grow  readily  from  seeds,  but  it  requires  several  years  to  flower 
them. 

Bromeliaceae.     Bromeliads. 

Many  of  the  bromeliads  produce  good  seed  and  are  readily 
propagated  by  sowing  these  in  pans  of  fine  sandy  soil,  and  kept 
in  a  moist  temperature  of  about  75°.  Also  increased  by  oft'sets 
which  are  freely  produced  after  the  plants  blossom. 

Bromus.     GramineoB. 

Easily  increased  by  seeds  sown  in  the  open  where  the  plants  are 
to  stand. 

Broughtonia.     Orchidacece. 

Increased  by  division,  as  for  epidendrum.     See  Orchids,  page  372. 

Broussonetia  (Paper  Mulberry).     Moracece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  when  ripe  or  kept  till  the  following 
spring;  and  by  suckers  and  greenwood  cuttings  or  cuttings  of 
ripened  wood,  in  a  cool  house ;  also  by  root-cuttings  w^ith  slight 
bottom  heat  and  layers.  The  varieties  are  also  sometimes  budded 
in  summer  or  grafted  in  early  spring  on  the  roots  of  the  type  in  the 
greenhouse. 

Browallia.     SolanacecE. 

To  have  blooming  plants  for  the  holidays,  they  are  propagated 
by  seeds  sown  in  summer  in  flats  or  pans  or  pots.  If  large  specimens 
are  desired,  the  seeds  may  be  sow^n  before  midsummer,  and  the 
plants  kept  from  premature  blooming.  For  outdoor  bloom  they 
may  be  started  indoors  in  early  spring  and  transplanted  into  the 
open  when  weather  becomes  warm. 

Brunfelsia,  Franciscea.     SolanaceoB. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  new  growth  in  spring  or  from 
pieces  of  the  ripe  wood  in  autumn,  placed  in  sand  under  glass  in 
moderate  heat. 

Brunsvigia.     AmaryllidaceGB, 

Grown  from  offsets  of  the  large  bulbs.  See  Amaryllidacece,  page 
228. 


260  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Brussels  Sprouts  {Brassica  oleracea  var.  gemmifera).     CrucifercB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  in  the  open  where  the  plants  are  to 
stand,  but  usually  in  a  coldframe  or  separate  seed-bed  and  plants 
transplanted  to  permanent  quarters.  They  are  hardy  plants, 
and  seeds  may  be  sown  early  if  desirable. 

Bryonia  (Bryony).     Cucurhitaceoe. 

Multiplied  by  seeds,  and  by  divisions  of  the  tuber.  Cuttings 
of  the  shoots  will  also  strike  (but  with  difficulty)  in  water. 

Bryophyllum.     Crassulaccce. 

Propagated  by  stem-cuttings  rooted  in  sand ;  or  by  simply  laying 
the  leaf  on  moist  sand  or  moss,  and  at  the  indentations  on  the  mar- 
gin plantlets  will  appear,  and  because  of  this  peculiarity  the  plant 
is  frequently  grown  for  botanical  instruction.  Fig.  106.  Also 
grown  from  seeds. 

Buddleia.     Loganiaceoe. 

Propagation  is  by  seeds  sown  in  spring  in  gentle  bottom  heat ; 
by  greenwood  cuttings  under  glass ;  and  by  hardwood  cuttings 
taken  in  fall  and  kept  during  winter  in  a  frost-proof  room. 

Buffalo-Berry  (Shepherdia  argentea).     EloeagnaceoB. 

Grown  readily  from  seeds,  which  are  cleaned  of  pulp  in  fall 
and  stratified  till  spring.  Sometimes  transplanted  from  the  wild 
to  nursery  rows.  Special  varieties  or  strains  can  be  grafted,  if 
desired,  on  the  Russian  oleaster  {ElcBagnus  angustifolia) . 

Bulbocodium.     LiliaceoB. 

Handled  by  offsets  of  the  bulbs. 

Bulb  ophy  Hum.     Orchidacece. 

Multiplied  by  division  of  pseudobulbs.     See  Orchids,  page  372. 

Bulbs. 

Consult  the  various  genera,  as  amaryllis,  crocus,  hyacinth, 
lily,  narcissus,  tulip,  and  others.  Most  bulbs  and  corms  make 
naturally  separable  parts,  as  offsets,  bulbels  and  cormels ;  these 
may  be  grown  to  large  size,  making  blooming  plants  in  two  to 
four  years. 

Burlingtonia :   Rodriguezia. 

Butomus  (Flowering  Rush).     Butomacew. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  division  of  the  roots. 


THE  NURSERY-LIST  261 

Buxus  (Box).     Buxaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  but  the  plants  grow 
very  slowly.  They  can  be  increased  by  suckers  and  division ; 
by  layers  of  young  or  old  wood,  made  in  autumn  or  early  spring ; 
usually  by  cuttings  made  of  the  young  shoots,  from  4  to  6  inches  in 
length,  in  a  sandy  place  in  spring  or  fall.  The  latter  method  is  the 
better  way  in  this  country,  and  in  the  North  the  cuttings  should  be 
handled  under  glass.    Dwarf  forms  are  usually  increased  by  division. 

Cabbage  {Brassica  oleracea).     Cruciferce. 

Cabbage,  brussels  sprouts,  broccoli  and  cauliflower  are  treated 
in  the  same  general  way.  The  plants  are  hardy  and  seeds  may  be 
sown  early.  In  the  middle  and  southern  latitudes  (say  Norfolk 
south)  cabbage  seed  may  be  sown  in  autumn  and  the  young  plants 
carried  over  in  frames  or  even  planted  directly  in  the  open,  so  that 
the  crop  will  mature  before  the  long  hot  weather.  Cabbage  seeds 
are  sometimes  planted  in  "  hills  "  in  spring  for  the  late  or  fall  crop 
in  the  North,  a  few  seeds  being  dropped  at  each  place  where  a 
plant  is  to  stand  and  the  plants  finally  thinned  to  one ;  care  must 
be  taken  to  protect  from  cabbage  worms  and  other  pests.  Usually, 
however,  cabbage  is  started  in  a  specially  prepared  seed-bed  or 
frame  and  transplanted,  even  for  the  main  crop.  The  early  crop 
is  grown  from  plants  started  in  a  hotbed  or  greenhouse ;  or  a  home 
garden  may  be  grown  from  plants  raised  in  a  window  in  the  res- 
idence. Cabbage  seeds  germinate  quickly.  Take  care  that  the 
plants  do  not  become  **  drawn  "  by  too  much  crowding,  insufficient 
light  and  too  high  temperature. 

Cabomba.      NymphceaceoB. 

Grown  from  cuttings  set  in  the  earth  in  1  to  2  feet  of  water,  tem- 
perature 55°  to  70° ;  also  by  division  of  the  plant  and  by  seeds. 

Cacti.     CaciacecB. 

The  many  kinds  of  cacti  are  propagated  by  seeds  and  by  cuttings  ; 
and  many  of  them  graft  readily. 

Most  cacti  yield  seeds  abundantly.  The  seeds  are  usually 
fertile,  and  when  planted  under  proper  conditions  a  large  percentage 
of  them  germinate  and  with  a  little  care  produce  plants  in  abun- 
dance. The  best  soil  for  growing  cacti  from  seed  is  a  thoroughly  de- 
composed sod  mixed  with  at  least  its  own  volume  of  sand,  run 
through  a  sieve  of  about  ^-inch  mesh.     Reasonable  care  should  be 


262  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

exercised  in  preparing  the  pot  for  planting.  As  a  rule  the  drain 
hole  in  the  bottom  is  too  small  and  is  easily  clogged.  This  hole 
should  be  enlarged,  as  thorough  drainage  must  be  maintained  in 
growing  cacti.  The  pot  should  be  filled  to  one-fourth  its  depth 
with  small  bits  of  broken  pots,  and  on  these  the  prepared  soil 
should  be  placed  and  pressed  or  shaken  together  firmly  but  not 
packed  hard.  The  surface  is  then  leveled  by  the  use  of  a  round 
flat-faced  tamper  of  a  diameter  just  to  fill  the  pot.  This  surface 
should  be  about  half  an  inch  from  the  top  of  the  pot.  Over  it  the 
seeds  are  evenly  distributed  and  then  covered  with  a  very  thin 
layer  of  soil,  upon  which  is  spread  a  layer  of  fine  gravel  to  a  depth 
of  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch.  For  the  first  few  months,  cactus 
seedlings  are  but  small,  globular,  balloon-shaped  or  cylindrical 
bodies,  so  tender  and  delicate  that  they  readily  "  damp  off  "  if 
subjected  to  a  sudden  change  from  a  high  to  a  low  temperature. 
For  w^atering,  a  vessel  should  be  used  that  gives  a  fine  gentle 
spray,  to  avoid  the  danger  of  washing  the  seeds  from  their  position 
or  of  injuring  the  young  seedlings.  Watering  should  be  done  at 
least  once  a  day.  The  temperature  of  the  propagating-house  or 
frame  should  be  kept  as  nearly  uniform  as  possible  and  should  not 
vary  much  from  70°  F.  The  seedlings  should  usually  be  left  in  the 
germination-pot  until  the  plant  shows  at  least  three  or  four  clusters 
of  spines.  It  is  not  advisable  to  begin  with  pots  smaller  than  2^ 
inches,  as  they  dry  out  too  rapidly. 

Nearly  all  cacti  may  be  propagated  readily  from  cuttings.  The 
plants  are  so  soft  and  so  filled  with  water  that  any  bruise  is  likely 
to  be  the  point  of  attack  of  a  fungus,  w^hich  quickly  destroys  them  ; 
therefore,  a  clean  sharp  knife  must  be  used  and  a  smooth  surface 
left  on  the  cut  end.  The  cutting  should  then  be  placed  in  a  dry 
atmosphere  for  a  day  or  more,  until,  by  drying,  a  kind  of  cuticle 
has  formed  over  the  cut  surface.  The  cutting  may  then  be  rooted 
in  sand  on  a  bench,  or  planted  directly  in  pots.  In  the  warmer 
drier  regions  it  may  be  placed  directly  in  the  open  ground,  provided 
the  soil  has  perfect  drainage.  In  greenhouse  culture  it  is  best  not 
to  place  much  of  the  cutting  below  the  surface  of  the  soil  or  sand ; 
1  inch  is  sufficient  for  large  plants,  and  less  than  that  for  smaller 
ones,  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  cutting.  When  the  cutting  is 
long  and  likely  to  fall  over,  a  stick  should  be  inserted  in  the  soil  by 
its  side  and  the  tw^o  securely  tied  together  until  roots  have  been 
formed. 

When  mature  plants  are  shipped  in  from  the  field,  the  roots  are 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  263 

always  mere  or  less  injured.  It  is  always  best  to  cut  away  the 
roots,  let  the  wounds  dry  and  heal  for  a  time,  and  then  treat  the 
plants  as  cuttings.  Many  of  the  opuntias  are  naturally  adapted 
to  propagate  themselves  vegetatively.  The  stems  are  readily 
detached  at  the  joints.  These  stems  fall  to  the  ground  and  in  a 
short  time  develop  roots  and  begin  to  grow  as  independent  plants. 
In  many  of  the  opuntias  the  fruits  are  sterile  but  proliferous. 
These  fruits  may  be  removed  and  treated  as  cuttings  and  will 
readily  produce  new  plants.  Many  of  the  smaller  kinds,  such  as 
echinocactus,  echinocereus,  and  mamillaria,  produce  branches 
that  are  readily  detachable  and  easily  rooted  as  cuttings.  Some 
species  of  mamillaria  have  side  shoots  which  are  so  lightly  attached 
that  they  break  ofl'  by  a  slight  touch. 

Grafting  is  easily  accomplished  in  cacti.  The  possibilities  of 
uniting  both  species  and  genera  seem  to  be  unlimited.  For  a  long 
time  it  has  been  a  practice  to  graft  epiphyllum  on  pereskia  or  some 
upright  stiff -stemmed  cereus  in  order  to  produce  a  more  decorative 
bush  plant.  The  rat-tail  cactus  (Aporocadus,  or  Cereus,  flagelli- 
formis)  is  frequently  treated  in  the  same  way.  It  not  infrequently 
happens  that  a  plant  becomes  decayed  at  its  base,  and  when  all 
evidence  of  decay  or  disease  has  been  removed  there  will  be  so  little 
healthy  tissue  left  that  it  is  next  to  impossible  to  get  it  to  grow  as  a 
cutting.  Such  a  piece  may  be  grafted  on  a  healthy  stock  and  the 
plant  be  preserved,  if  the  growing  tip  is  intact.  A  cleft-graft  or 
saddle-graft  is  more  desirable  when  either  of  these  can  be  employed, 
since  they  require  less  work  in  preparation  and  give  a  large  surface 
for  the  union  of  the  tissues.  The  mucilaginous  sap  that  exudes 
from  the  cut  surface  allows  the  stock  and  cion  to  slip  apart  very 
easily,  and  the  parts  become  disarranged  unless  proper  precaution 
is  used  to  prevent  it.  For  this  purpose  the  needle-like  spines  of 
pereskia  or  opuntia  may  be  used.  The  two  parts  are  pressed 
firmly  together  into  the  desired  position,  and  then  a  spine  is  thrust 
through  the  united  portions,  securely  pinning  them  in  that  position. 
No  wax  is  required,  but  it  is  best  to  wrap  the  graft  closely  with 
raffia  to  exclude  the  air.  The  grafted  plants  are  then  placed  in 
a  warm  moderately  moist  place  until  the  tissues  have  become 
thoroughly  knitted  together.  They  should  not  be  placed  where 
subject  to  drying,  for  under  such  conditions  the  cut  surface  will 
be  the  first  to  dry,  and  consequently  a  perfect  union  will  be 
prevented. 

With  small  globose  or  thick  plants,  such  as  mamillaria,  echino- 


264  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

cactus  and  echinocereus,  a  different  method  is  preferable.  The 
head  of  the  plant  is  cut  away  with  a  perfectly  smooth  transverse 
cut.  A  stock  is  chosen  that  has  about  the  same  diameter  as  the 
cion,  and  it  is  given  a  smooth  transverse  cut.  The  two  flat  sur- 
faces are  then  pressed  firmly  together  and  held  in  place  by  tying 
them  with  a  cotton  or  other  soft  cord.  It  is  essential  that 
clean  instruments  be  used  to  prevent  inoculation  with  disease 
germs. 

A  number  of  the  upright-growing  species  of  cereus  have  been 
used  successfully  for  stocks,  and  there  seems  to  be  no  limit  to  the 
number  of  species  that  may  be  employed.  When  it  is  desired  to 
have  the  cion  a  foot  or  more  high,  good  stocks  may  be  obtained 
from  plants  of  the  old  genus  Cereus,  as  Lemaireocereus  stellatus, 
Nyctocereus  serpentinus,  and  other  species  of  similar  habit.  These 
stocks  are  preferable  for  use  in  grafting  Aporocadus  flagelliformis 
and  species  of  epiphyllum  and  rhipsalis,  which  normally  grow  in  a 
pendent  direction.  When  only  short  stocks  are  desired  the  above 
may  be  used,  and  also  C.  tortuosus,  C.  Bonplandii,  Selenicereus 
nydicalus,  S.  MacDonaldioB,  and  S.  grandiflorus.  These  latter 
plants  are  weak-stemmed  when  allowed  to  grow  tall ;  hence,  they 
cannot  be  used  for  high  grafts  unless  supported  by  a  stake  of 
some  kind.  All  these  species  are  readily  grown  from  cuttings, 
which  should  be  somewhat  longer  than  the  stock  is  to  be.  When 
the  cutting  is  thoroughly  rooted  it  should  be  potted  and  kept  in 
good  growing  condition  until  a  new  root  system  has  formed.  It  will 
then  be  ready  to  receive  the  cion  after  having  been  cut  back  to  the 
desired  height.  —  Condensed  and  adapted  from  C.  H.  Thompson, 
Bidl.  262,  Bur.  PL  Ind.,  U.  S.  Dept  Agr. 

Caesalpinia.     LeguminosoB. 

Readily  propagated  by  seeds  which  should  be  soaked  in  warm 
water  for  some  hours  before  sowing ;  plant  in  a  bed  of  sandy  soil 
and  shade  lightly  ;  pot  off  when  the  plants  show  the  first  true  leaf. 
Sometimes  increased  by  cuttings,  which  may  not  root  readily; 
put  them  in  sand  under  glass. 

Cajanus  (Pigeon  Pea).     Leguminosae. 

Grown  readily  from  seeds ;  in  the  tropics  treated  as  an  annual 
for  its  edible  seeds.  As  a  glasshouse  subject,  it  may  be  grown  from 
cuttings  struck  in  heat. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  265 

Caladium.     AracecB. 

Handled  by  tubers,  which  have  been  kept  dry  or  rested  for 
some  time.  The  cut  surfaces  should  be  well  dusted  with  powdered 
charcoal  to  prevent  decay.  Place  in  small  pots  where  the  night 
temperature  is  maintained  from  60°  to  65°.  Large  tubers,  if 
sound,  may  be  divided  and  the  pieces  potted ;  some  also  by 
cuttings.     New  forms  raised  from  seed.     See  Aracece,  page  239. 

Calamagrostis.     Graminece. 
Multiplied  by  seeds  sown  in  autumn  or  spring. 

Calamus.     PalmaceoB. 
Increased  by  seeds  in  heat.     See  Palms,  page  377. 

Calandrinia.     PortulacacecB. 

Propagated  mostly  by  seeds  in  this  country,  as  they  are  annuals 
or  treated  as  such  for  flower-garden  bloom.  C.  umbellata,  and 
other  perennials,  may  also  be  grown  from  cuttings. 

Calanthe.     OrchidaceoB. 

Readily  handled  by  separating  the  pseudobulbs  when  repotting ; 
young  bulbs  often  appear  on  the  top  of  the  old  ones ;  the  old  bulbs 
will  start  again  the  second  year. 

Calathea.     Marantaceoe. 

Tubers  may  be  used  for  propagation,  when  produced.  A 
common  method  is  to  divide  the  crowns.  When  secondary  growths 
or  suckers  arise,  they  may  be  taken  off  below  the  joints,  preferably 
in  spring  before  growth  starts. 

Calceolaria  (Slipperwort).     ScrophulariaceoB. 

The  herbaceous  calceolarias,  treated  practically  as  annuals,  are 
grown  from  seed.  Sow  on  finely  sifted  soil  and  be  very  careful 
with  watering ;  it  is  a  good  plan  to  sink  the  pan  or  pot  into  water 
when  needed  rather  than  to  water  on  top.  Temperature  should  be 
about  60°  ;  protect  from  sun.  Seeds  may  be  sown  from  late  spring 
to  early  autumn  to  get  plants  for  the  succeeding  winter  and  spring. 

The  shrubby  calceolarias  may  be  grown  from  seeds  the  same  as 
the  others,  but  cuttings  may  also  be  employed  with  good  results. 
When  the  plant  is  trimmed  in  late  summer  or  early  autumn,  the 
cuttings  of  firm  wood  are  taken,  with  two  joints.  The  temperature 
of  the  house  should  be  about  45°  to  50°,  and  the  cuttings  should  be 
protected  from  the  sun. 


266  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Calendula  (Pot  Marigold).     CompositoB. 

The  common  pot  marigold  (C.  officinalis)  grows  quickly  from 
early-sown  seeds  where  the  plants  are  to  stand ;  or  the  seeds  may 
be  started  indoors  and  the  plants  transplanted  for  early  bloom. 
The  plants  of  this  genus  may  also  be  grown  from  cuttings. 

Calla  of  florists  :   Zantedeschia. 

Calliandra.     LeguminoscB. 

Cuttings  in  sand  over  bottom  heat  are  used  for  propagation. 

Callicarpa  (French  Mulberry).     Verhenaceas. 

Increased  by  seeds,  divisions,  and  by  cuttings  of  the  young 
shoots  in  spring  or  summer  under  glass ;  also  by  hardwood  cuttings 
and  layers. 

Calliopsis :   Coreopsis. 

Calliphruria.     AmaryUidacecB. 
Propagated  by  offsets  from  the  bulb. 

Callirhoe  (Poppy-Mallow).     Malvacece. 

Perennials  are  propagated  by  seeds,  division  of  roots,  and 
cuttings ;   the  annuals  are  easily  raised  from  seeds. 

Callistemon.     MyrtacecB. 

Multiplied  by  seeds,  and  by  ripened  cuttings  (or  wood  firm  at  the 
base)  in  sand  under  glass.  Seeds  should  be  sown  in  early  spring 
in  finely  sifted  mixture  of  sand,  leaf-mold  and  loam  and  covered 
lightly,  and  placed  in  a  cool  greenhouse.  The  seed  is  gathered 
in  summer,  the  capsules  being  allowed  to  open  naturally  in  a  box 
or  on  sheets  of  paper. 

Callistephus  (China  Aster).     Compositoe. 

Quickly  grown  from  seeds.  For  the  main  or  late  crop,  seeds 
may  be  sown  in  a  seed-bed  in  the  open  or  even  where  the  plants 
are  to  stand.  For  earlier  bloom,  seeds  may  be  started  indoors  in 
late  spring. 

Callitris,  Frenela.     PinacecB. 

Multiplied  by  seeds  when  obtainable;  and  by  cuttings  under 
glass  in  autumn,  and  wintered  in  a  pit. 

Calluna  (Heather).     EricacecB. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  tender  shoots  in  sand  under  glass 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  267 

in  a  cool  house  in  autumn.  Plants  for  propagating  stock  should 
be  potted  in  September  and  kept  in  a  cold  frame  or  pit  till  January  ; 
on  being  brought  into  a  warm  greenhouse,  cuttings  may  be  taken 
in  about  two  weeks  and  will  root  readily  in  sand.  C.  vulgaris  is 
propagated  from  cuttings  or  seeds ;  its  varieties  by  cuttings. 

Calochortus  (Mariposa  Lily).     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  offsets,  and  by  the  little  bulblets  on 
the  stem.  Sow  seeds  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  early  the  next  year.  As 
they  may  have  to  remain  in  the  pans  or  flats  the  second  year,  it  is 
well  to  sow  the  seed  thinly.  Keep  in  a  frame  or  cool  house.  Pot 
them  off  the  third  season ;  that  or  the  following  season  they  should 
bloom.  Offsets  are  removed  when  the  plants  are  shifted,  or  in  a 
dormant  period. 

Calonyction  (Moonflower).     ConvolvulacecB. 

Raised  from  seeds,  which  may  be  cut  or  filed  to  hasten  germina- 
tion. For  short-season  climates,  the  plants  should  be  started 
indoors.     Often  retained  in  the  genus  Ipomoea. 

Caltha  (Marsh  Marigold.    *'  Cowslip  "  in  America).     RanunculaceoB. 
Readily  increased  by  division  of  the  plants,  or  of  the  rhizomes 
of  some  species.     Fresh  seeds  sown  in  moist  cool  earth  give  satis- 
factory results. 

Calycanthus  (Sweet-scented  Shrub.     Carolina  Allspice).     Calycan- 
thaceoB. 
Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  spring  in  a  frame ;  by  divisions  or 
suckers,  and  by  layers  in  summer. 

Calystegia :  Convolvulus. 

Camassia  (Camass  or  Quamas).     LiliacecB. 

Seeds  grow  readily,  giving  blooming  plants  in  three  or  four  years ; 
also  increased  by  offsets. 

Campanula  (Bell-flower).     Campanulaceae. 

Increased  by  seeds  started  early  under  glass.  Annuals  may  be 
raised  in  the  border  by  seeds  sown  late  in  April  or  May,  or  raised 
in  the  greenhouse  and  transplanted.  The  perennials  are  also  prop- 
agated by  dividing  the  roots,  or  by  cuttings  of  shoots  in  spring. 
The  Canterbury  bell  (C  Medium)  is  biennial.  Seeds  sown  in 
late  spring  will  give  good  bloom  the  following  year.     Plants  for 


268  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

specially   good   results   are   sometimes   potted   and  carried   over 
winter  in  a  frame  or  cool  house. 

Campsis  (Trumpet-Creeper).     Bignoniaceae. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  by  greenwood  cuttings  under  glass,  by 
hardwood  and  also  by  root-cuttings  and  layers.  The  plant  is 
mostly  known  as  Tecoma  (rather  than  Campsis)  radicans. 

Canistrum.     Bromeliaceae. 

Propagation  as  for  nidularium,  which  see. 

Canna.     Cannaceae. 

The  named  garden  cannas  are  propagated  by  division  of  the 
large  branching  roots  or  rhizomes.  Every  large  eye,  with  some 
root  and  rhizome  attached,  may  form  an  independent  plant.  Weak 
eyes  usually  produce  relatively  weak  plants,  unless  handled  with 
special  care.  These  rhizome-cuttings  are  started  in  pots  or  boxes 
under  glass,  so  that  the  plants  may  be  a  half  foot  or  foot  high  when 
planting-out  time  comes  with  warm  weather.  The  entire  clump  of 
roots  may  be  planted  directly  in  the  open  if  one  does  not  need  to 
multiply  the  plants,  or  only  partial  division  may  be  made ;  this 
gives  stronger  plants  or  masses  under  ordinary  conditions.     Fig.  57. 

Seeds  grow  readily  if  well  matured,  although  they  usually  ger- 
minate slowly  and  irregularly  unless  cut  or  filed  to  let  in  the 
moisture.  If  sown  in  late  winter  or  early  spring  over  good  bottom 
heat  and  the  plants  shifted  as  needed,  blooming  plants  may  be  had 
the  first  year.  Seeds  give  rise  to  new  varieties,  or  at  least  to 
variations. 

Cannabis  (Hemp).     Moraceae. 

Grown  from  seeds  sown  in  spring. 

Cantua.     Polemoniaceae. 

Handled  by  cuttings  placed  in  sand  under  glass;  Uttle  known 
in  North  America. 

Capparis  (Caper).     Capparidacece. 

In  warm  countries,  grown  from  seeds.  In  greenhouses  and  cold 
climates,  propagated  by  cuttings  of  ripe  shoots  in  sand  under  glass. 

Capsicum:   Pepper. 

Caragana  (Siberian  Pea  Tree).     Leguminosce. 

Seeds  are  sown  in  autumn  or  spring ;  if  kept  dry  over  winter, 
they  are  soaked  in  warm  water  before  sowing.     Root-cuttings 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  269 

may  be  used ;  also  layers  of  the  bushy  kinds.     Rare  or  choice  kinds 
may  be  grafted  on  seed-raised  stocks  of  C.  arhorescens. 

Cardamine  (Lady's  Smock).     Cruciferae. 

Multiplied  easily  by  division  of  the  roots  after  flowering,  and  by 
seeds. 

Cardiospermum  (Balloon- Vine).     SapindaceoB, 
Propagated  easily  by  seeds. 

Cardoon  {Cynara  Cardunculus).     CompositoB. 

Seeds  and  suckers  as  for  artichoke,  to  which  it  is  very  closely 
related. 

Carex  (Sedge).     Cyperaceae. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  late  fall,  and  by  division  of  the 
clumps,  usually  the  latter.     Seeds  often  lie  dormant  the  first  year. 

Carica :   Papaya. 

Carissa.     Apocynaceoe. 
Propagation  by  seeds  and  by  cuttings  of  ripe  wood. 

Carludovica.     Cyclanthacew. 

Propagation  by  division,  in  early  spring ;  also  by  seeds  cleaned 
of  the  pulp  and  sown  on  surface  of  a  pan  of  finely  chopped  sphagnum 
moss. 

Carnation  {Dianthus  Caryophyllus).     Caryophyllaceoe. 

New  varieties  are  grown  from  seeds,  mostly  from  hand-pollinated 
flowers.  Seeds  are  usually  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  under  glass. 
Seedlings  are  potted  as  soon  as  the  true  foliage  leaves  appear ; 
bloom  may  be  expected  within  a  year. 

The  commercial  florist's  carnation  is  grown  in  North  America 
from  cuttings  rooted  in  winter  and  early  spring  in  benches  of 
clean  sharp  sand  over  even  bottom  heat  of  about  60°  and  an  air 
temperature  50°  to  55°,  protected  from  drafts  and  direct  sunshine. 
The  cuttings  are  cut  to  a  joint  beneath  and  the  leaves  are  stripped 
from  this  joint  so  that  there  will  })e  a  half  inch  of  clean  stem. 
The  spreading  upper  leaves  are  cut  off,  and  only  the  fresh  upright 
foliage  is  left.  The  cuttings  are  inserted  about  J  inch  into  the 
sand,  close  together  in  the  row.  Keep  uniformly  moist  and  not  too 
hot.  These  cuttings  yield  the  blooming  plants  for  the  succeeding 
winter.  Best  cuttings  are  made  from  the  middle  side-growths  on 
the  fiower-stems,  care  being  taken  that  only  healthy  and  productive 


270  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

stock  is  propagated.  Good  cuttings  may  be  had  from  stocky 
cutting-made  plants  grown  only  for  the  purpose  of  yielding  cutting- 
wood  and  not  grown  on  for  bloom.  The  carnation  soon  deteriorates 
if  care  is  not  taken  to  select  from  the  best  parents.     Fig.  116. 

In  Europe,  the  carnation  is  also  propagated  by  layering,  which 
should  be  done  at  the  end  of  July  or  the  beginning  of  August.  The 
shoots  selected  should  be  denuded  of  a  few  of  their  leaves  at  the 
base  of  the  young  wood,  and  a  slit  must  be  made  from  this  point 
upwards,  extending  through  a  joint  of  the  bare  stem,  so  that  a 
tongue  is  formed.     Figs.  63,  69. 

The  outdoor  hardy  carnation  is  grown  in  the  same  way  as  pinks. 
See  Dianthus. 

Carpinus  (Hornbeam.     Blue  Beech).     Betulaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  usually  in  fall,  which  germinate 
irregularly.  If  the  seed-bed  is  kept  moist  and  clean  (covered  with 
moss  or  other  material)  through  the  entire  season,  the  remaining 
seeds  may  be  expected  to  germinate  the  second  spring.  Varieties 
propagated  by  budding  or  grafting  on  seedling  stocks,  either  under 
glass  in  spring  on  potted  stock  or  in  the  open  in  summer. 

Carrot  {Daucus  Carota).      UmhelliferoB. 

Grown  from  seeds  sown  in  spring  where  the  plants  are  to  stand 

Carthamus  (Safflower).     CompositoB. 

Raised  from  seeds  sown  directly  in  the  open,  or  started  under 
glass.     The  common  C.  tinctorius  is  a  garden  annual. 

Carya :    Hickory,  Pecan. 

Caryopteris.     Verhenacece. 

Raised  by  seeds  sown  in  spring,  by  division,  and  by  cuttings  of 
half-ripened  wood  in  summer  or  fall  under  glass. 

Caryota.     Palmaceae. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  by  suckers.     See  Palms,  page  377. 

Cassandra :  ChamoBdaphne. 

Cassava  (Manihot  dulcis  var.  Aipi).     Euphorhiaceoe. 

Multiplied  by  cuttings  of  the  stem  and  by  suckers.  Propagated 
in  spring,  the  cassava  roots  are  ready  to  harvest  in  autumn.  Cut 
the  large  main  stalks  into  pieces  from  4  to  6  inches  long,  and  set 
them  perpendicularly  into  the  ground  in  the  field.  The  cuttings 
can  be  struck  at  various  times,  but  spring  is  usually  preferred. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  271 

The  stalks  can  be  kept  over  winter  l)y  covering  with  sand  on  a  dry 
knoll,  placing  the  stalks  and  sand  in  layers.  Cover  the  whole  with 
boards  to  shed  the  water.  Suckers  which  appear  during  summer 
can  be  removed  and  planted  or  made  into  cuttings.  Seeds  are 
sometimes  used  for  growing  the  early-maturing  varieties. 

Cassia.     LeguminosoB. 

The  perennial  and  woody  kinds  are  grown  from  divisions  and  by 
cuttings  of  firm  wood  struck  in  heat;  the  annuals  by  seeds;  C 
marylandica  also  by  division. 

Castanea :   Chestnut. 

The  castanea  nuts  of  commerce  are  Brazil-nuts  (Bertholletia), 
not  grown  in  North  America. 

Castor-oil  Bean :   Ricinus. 

Casuarina  (Beef wood).     Casuarinaceoe. 

Multiplied  by  seeds ;  and  by  cuttings  made  of  half-ripened  or 
firm  shoots,  in  sand  under  glass. 

Catalpa.     Bignoniacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  spring  in  the  North,  with  slight 
bottom  heat,  and  by  cuttings  of  the  ripe  wood.  The  named 
varieties  are  propagated  by  soft  cuttings  in  June  and  July.  Grafts 
are  also  used  on  seedlings  or  on  roots  of  C.  speciosa  or  C.  hignonioides 
in  spring  under  glass.  Layers  and  root-cuttings  are  sometimes 
employed.  The  C.  Bungei  of  nurseries  (which  is  properly  C. 
hignonioides  var.  nana)  may  be  worked  on  seedlings,  or  grown 
from  cuttings. 

Catananche.     CompositoB. 
Propagated  by  seeds  in  spring ;  perennials  also  by  division. 

Catasetum.     Orckidacece. 

Propagated  by  dividing  plants  at  base ;  also  from  very  ripe 
pseudobulbs  cut  in  pieces  and  put  in  sand.     See  Orchids,  page  372. 

Cattleya.     Orchidaceas. 

Raised  from  seeds,  and  also  by  cutting  the  rhizome  between  the 
pseudobulbs.  The  rhizome  is  cut  almost  in  two  as  it  stands  and 
allowed  to  remain  until  roots  are  formed,  when  the  parts  may  be 
severed  and  separately  potted.     See  Orchids,  page  372. 

Cauliflower  (Brassica  oleracea  var.  botrytis).     Crucijeroe. 
Grown  from  seeds  much  as  cabbage,  which  see. 


272  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Ceanothus.     RhamnaceoB. 

Increased  by  layers  and  by  cuttings  of  mature  wood  in  autumn 
m  a  coldframe.  Softwood  cuttings  grow  readily  if  taken  in  early 
spring  from  forced  plants.  Also  propagated  by  seeds  sown  in 
spring.  Varieties  and  hybrids  may  be  grafted  on  roots  of  C. 
americanus  under  glass  in  early  spring.  Seeds  may  be  sown  in 
spring. 

Cedar:    Cedrus,  ChamcBcyparis,  Juniperus,   Thuja;   also  Cedrela. 

Cedrela  (Bastard  Cedar).     Meliacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  mature-wood  cuttings  in  sand,  under 
glass ;   also  by  root-cuttings. 

Cedronella.     Lahiatce. 

The  herbaceous  species  are  propagated  by  division  of  the  roots 
and  by  cuttings  of  young  wood ;  C.  triphylla  by  cuttings  or  by 
seeds. 

Cedrus  (Cedar).     PinacecB. 

Propagated  in  spring  by  seeds.  Varieties  are  propagated  by 
veneer-grafts  in  late  summer  or  fall ;  may  also  be  grown  from 
cuttings,  if  the  small  shoots  which  spring  from  the  old  wood  are 
taken.  In  the  North,  C.  atlantica  mav  be  used  as  stock  on  which 
to  graft  varieties  and  rare  kinds,  and  in  the  South  C.  Deodara. 

Celastrus  (Staff -tree.     Bitter-sweet).     Celastracece. 

Grown  from  seeds  sown  in  fall  or  stratified,  and  freely  by  suckers ; 
also  by  layering  in  autumn ;  also  by  root-cuttings. 

Celery  {Apium  graveolens).      Umhelliferae. 

Grown  from  seeds ;  for  the  early  crop,  sow  under  glass,  as  in  a 
hotbed,  early  in  March.  Seed  for  late  crops  may  be  sown  out- 
doors as  early  in  spring  as  the  ground  can  be  worked,  in  well-pro- 
tected and  carefully  prepared  seed-beds ;  keep  the  soil  uniformly 
moist. 

Celosia  (Cockscomb).     Amarantaceae. 

Grown  from  seed  sown  in  spring  indoors  or  directly  in  the  open- 
Seeds  germinate  readily. 

Celsia.     ScrophulariacecB. 

Seeds  in  pots  in  the  greenhouse,  the  plants  being  later  trans* 
f erred  to  the  open ;   C.  Ardurus  also  by  cuttings. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  273 

Celtis  (Nettle-Tree).      Ulmaceoe. 

Multiplied  by  seeds  as  soon  as  ripe ;  by  layers,  and  by  cuttings  of 
ripened  shoots  in  autumn.  Rare  kinds  are  sometimes  grafted  on 
seedlings  of  C.  occidentalis. 

Centaurea.     Compositce. 

Annuals  are  grown  from  seeds  sown  directly  in  the  open  or  started 
under  glass.  C.  Cineraria  and  some  others  grown  for  foliage  may 
be  raised  from  seeds  in  August,  or  from  cuttings  about  the  beginning 
of  September  and  carried  over  winter.  The  bachelor's  button  (C 
Cyanus)  is  best  known  and  is  an  easily-grown  annual  from  seed; 
often  self-sows. 

Centradenia.     Melastomacew. 

Increased  by  cuttings  at  any  time  of  the  year.  To  obtain  good 
plants  for  the  following  winter,  cuttings  should  be  taken  in  February 
or  March. 

Centranthus.     Valcrianacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  in  spring,  and  by  divisions. 

Cephalanthus  (Button-Bush).     RubiaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  layers,  and  mature  cuttings  in  autumn ; 
also  by  greenwood  cuttings  taken  from  forced  plants  early  in 
spring. 

Cephalocereus  :   Cactacece, -page  261. 

Cerastium  (Mouse-Ear  Chickweed).     CaryophyllacecB. 

Raised  by  seeds  and  division,  or  by  cuttings  after  flowering. 

Cerasus :   Cherry,  Prunus. 

Ceratonia  (Carob).     LeguminosGP. 

Grown  from  seeds.  On  the  seedlings,  choice  or  named  varieties 
may  be  budded,  the  buds  from  bearing  trees  yielding  fruit  in  three 
to  six  or  eight  years.  Seeds  may  be  soaked  in  water  three  or  four 
days  to  hasten  germination.  Cuttings  may  be  struck  in  bottom 
heat. 

Ceratopteris.     CeratopteridaceoB. 

Propagated  by  buds  which  arise  from  all  parts  of  the  leaves. 
See  Ferns,  page  312. 

7 


274  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Ceratostigma.     Plumhaginacece. 

Increased  by  divisions,  and  by  cuttings.  C.  Larpentoe  is  the 
Plumbago  Larpentce  of  nurseries. 

Ceratozamia.     Cycadacew. 

Usually  grown  from  the  imported  plants.  It  may  be  propagated 
by  seeds,  when  obtainable,  and  also  by  offsets.  These  offsets  or 
suckers  arise  on  the  crown  when  the  trunk  is  injured ;  to  stimulate 
them,  the  center  of  the  plant  is  sometimes  burned  out  with  a  hot 
iron. 

Cercidiphyllum.      TrochodendracecB. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  made  in  the  summer  and  from  greenwood 
cuttings  taken  from  forced  plants  in  spring ;  by  seeds,  when  pro- 
curable, sown  in  spring,  or  by  layers. 

Cercis  (Red-Bud.     Judas  Tree).     Leguminosw. 

Propagated  by  seeds  in  spring,  preferably  indoors  with  bottom 
heat.  May  also  be  increased  by  layers,  and  by  greenwood  cuttings 
from  forced  plants  in  early  spring.  C.  chinensis  is  grown  from 
soft  cuttings  in  summer  under  glass. 

Cereus.     Cactaceoe. 

By  seeds  and  cuttings.     See  Ca^ti,  page  261. 

Cerinthe.     Boragmacece. 

Propagated  readily  by  seeds,  in  spring. 

Ceropegia.     Asclepiadaceoe. 

Handled  by  cuttings  of  green  shoots  in  spring,  preferably  with 
bottom  heat. 

Ceropteris.     PolypodiacecB. 

Spores  and  division.     See  Ferns,  page  312. 

Cestrum,  including  Habrothamnus.     Solanacew. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  in  February  or  early  March  and  inserted 
in  sand  in  a  warm  temperature ;  by  seed,  when  obtainable. 

Chaenomeles  (Japan  Quince).     Rosaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  usually  stratified  and  sown  in  spring ;  by 
root-cuttings  in  fall  or  early  spring ;  also  from  cuttings  of  half- 
ripened  wood,  under  glass,  and  from  layers.  Rarer  kinds  may  be 
grafted  on  stock  of  Japanese  (Ch.  lagenaria)  or  common  quince 
(Cydonia  oblonga)  in  early  spring  in  the  greenhouse.     The  Japan 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  275 

qumce,  grown  for  its  attractive  early  spring  bloom,  is  commonly 
known  as  Cydonia  japonica;  later  as  Chcpnomeles  japonica,  and 
now  as  ChoBTiomeles  lagenaria. 

Chamaebatiaria.     RosacecB. 

The  Spiraea,  or  Sorharia,  Millefoliwn  of  nurserymen ;  seeds  in 
spring,  as  for  spiraeas,  or  by  heeled  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood  in 
summer  in  slight  bottom  heat. 

Chamaecyparis  (White  Cedar).     Pinareae. 

Raised  from  seeds  freely,  sown  in  spring,  also  by  layers,  but 
mainly  by  cuttings  of  mature  wood  put  in  a  frame  or  greenhouse  in 
autumn  and  kept  cool  and  close  over  winter ;  in  spring,  gentle 
bottom  heat  is  applied.  The  retinosporas  (which  are  juvenile 
forms  of  other  species)  are  grown  in  this  way  from  cuttings,  and 
also  many  forms  of  C.  Lawsoniana.  Other  species  are  veneer- 
grafted  in  winter  on  seedlings.  Dwarf  kinds  lose  their  small 
stature  if  grafted. 

Chamaedaphne  (Leather  Leaf).     EricacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  in  peat  or  on  live  sphagnum  moss,  scarcely 
covered,  kept  uniformly  moist  and  shady.  Layers  and  suckers  are 
employed  ;  also  mature  wood  cuttings  under  glass  in  late  summer. 
C.  calyculata  is  the  Cassandra  and  Andromeda  calyculata  of  nurseries. 

Chamaedorea.     Palmacece. 

Grown  from  seeds.     See  Palms,  page  377. 

Chamaerops.     Palmacece. 

Grown  from  seeds,  and  freely  from  suckers.     See  Palms,  page  377. 

Charieis.     Compositce. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  either  planted  in  the  open  or  sown  indoors 
and  transplanted.  C.  heterophylla  is  the  Kaulfussia  amelloidcs  of 
seedsmen. 

Cheiranthus  (Wallflower).     Cruciferce. 

The  perennials  are  grown  from  cuttings  taken  in  autumn  and 
carried  over  winter  in  a  frame  or  coolhouse.  The  annuals  and 
biennials  are  readily  raised  from  seeds. 

Cherry  (Pruniis  avium,  P.  Cerasus,  etc.).     Rosaceae. 

Cherry  stocks  are  commonly  grown  from  seeds.  If  the  ground 
is  in  readiness  and  is  in  proper  condition,  the  seeds  may  be  planted 
in  fall,  or  even  as  soon  as  they  are  ripe.     If  stored  until  spring,  they 


276  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

must  be  stratified  and  kept  very  cool  to  prevent  germination,  and 
they  should  be  sown  at  the  earliest  possible  moment.  They  do 
not  need  to  be  cracked  by  hand.  Care  must  be  taken  that  cherry 
pits  do  not  become  hard  and  dry.  This  precaution  is  more  im- 
portant with  cherries  than  with  peaches  and  plums.  At  the  close 
of  the  first  season,  the  seedlings  will  be  a  foot  or  foot  and  a  half 
high,  large  enough  to  transplant  into  nursery  row^s,  after  the  manner 
of  apples,  where  they  are  budded  the  following  season  (second 
season  from  the  seed).  In  warm  climates  the  pits  are  sometimes 
cracked  as  soon  as  they  are  gathered,  and  the  "  meats  "  planted 
immediately.  They  will  then  make  stocks  fit  for  grafting  the 
ensuing  winter,  or  for  transplanting  and  budding  the  follow^ing 
summer. 

Cherries,  in  common  with  other  stone  fruits,  grow  readily  from 
root-cuttings,  in  the  same  way  as  blackberries.  They  do  better  if 
started  over  a  gentle  heat. 

The  mazzard  cherry  is  the  stock  on  which  cherries  are  recom- 
mended to  be  worked.  It  is  a  hardy  and  vigorous  variety,  with 
inferior  fruit,  of  the  common  sweet  cherry  {Prunus  avium).  Seeds 
of  this  are  readily  procured  in  this  country.  As  a  matter  of  fact, 
however,  nearlv  all  sour  cherries  are  worked  on  the  mahaleb  in  this 
country,  as  they  take  better  on  it,  and  the  stocks  are  cheap.  Sweet 
cherries  are  often  budded  on  the  mahaleb,  but  it  is  a  question 
whether  such  practice  is  best.  The  mazzard  is  such  a  strong 
growler  that  the  bud  is  often  "  drowned  out  "  by  the  flow  of  sap. 
To  avoid  this  exuberance,  nurserymen  often  pinch  in  the  tips  of 
the  stocks  a  few  days  before  they  are  to  be  worked.  The  mazzard 
is  also  liable  to  leaf -blight,  and  to  serious  injury  from  the  black 
aphis,  so  that  the  bark  often  sets  before  the  operator  has  had  time 
to  finish  his  plantation.  Mazzards  usually  have  a  shorter  budding 
season  than  mahalebs,  and  are  less  uniform  in  behavior ;  and  for 
these  reasons,  mahalebs  are  widelv  used. 

Mahaleb  is  a  distinct  species,  Prunus  Mahaleb,  from  southern 
Europe.  The  seeds  or  stocks  of  it  are  imported.  Mahaleb  stocks 
are  recommended  in  the  books  for  dwarfing  the  cherry,  but  the 
dwarfing  depends  more  on  pruning  than  on  the  mahaleb  root. 
The  mahaleb  is  naturally  a  smaller  tree  than  the  mazzard,  how- 
ever. It  is  said  that  the  mahaleb  is  better  adapted  to  heavy  clay 
soils  than  the  mazzard,  but  in  practice  it  is  used  indiscriminately 
for  all  soils  and  nearlv  all  varieties. 

Morello   (Prunus  Cerasu^)  stocks  will  no  doubt  prove  to  be 


iv.y 


./ 


M^ 


\. 


'^«. ' 


'^^t  ffi   ^    '-^      --^^ 


mm: 


vv 


i%m.' 


Kn  ■ 


Platk  IX.     Two-year  budded  cherry,  on  mazzard  (left),  and  mahaleb 

(right). 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  277 

valuable  in  the  Northwest,  where  great  hardiness  is  demanded. 
Seedlings  do  not  sprout  or  sucker  badly,  but  the  natural  suckers, 
which  are  sometimes  used  for  stocks,  are  likely  to  be  more  trouble- 
some in  this  respect.  If  strong-growing  tops  are  worked  on 
morello  stocks,  however,  there  is  usually  little  annoyance  from 
suckering.  Mahaleb  stocks  are  generally  used  for  the  morello 
cherries. 

It  is  probable  that  some  of  the  native  American  cherries  can  be 
used  as  stocks.  The  common  wild  red,  pin,  pigeon  or  bird  cherry 
{Prunus  pennsylvanica)  has  already  been  used  to  some  extent. 
The  sweet  and  sour  cherries  unite  readily  with  it,  and  bear  very 
early.  It  is  yet  to  be  determined  how  long  the  trees  will  persist,  but 
trees  sixteen  or  eighteen  years  old  have  been  still  healthy  and 
vigorous.  It  is  considered  to  be  a  very  promising  stock  for  the 
cold  prairie  states.  The  dwarf  or  sand  cherries  {Prunus  pumila 
and  P.  Besseyi)  give  promise  as  dwarf  stocks. 

Cherry  stocks  are  worked  both  by  budding  and  grafting.  Bud- 
ding is  the  common  method.  The  stocks  should  be  fit  to  work  the 
season  they  are  transplanted,  or  in  the  second  summer  from  seed. 
Such  as  are  too  small  for  working  then  may  be  allowed  to  stand 
until  the  following  year ;  or  if  the  number  is  small,  the  poor  ones 
are  rooted  out. 

In  the  West,  where  great  hardiness  is  required,  the  varieties  are 
crown-grafted  on  mazzard  stocks  in  winter.  Yearling  stocks  are 
used,  and  the  cions  are  6  to  10  inches  long.  When  planted,  only 
the  top  bud  should  be  left  above  ground.  The  cion  strikes  roots, 
and  own-rooted  trees  are  obtained. 

The  ornamental  cherries  are  worked  on  the  same  stocks  as  the 
fruit-bearing  sorts.  Mahaleb  and  mazzard  are  commonly  used 
for  all  species,  the  latter  for  weeping  forms  which  need  to  be  worked 
high. 

Cherry  trees  can  be  top-grafted,  as  are  apple  or  pear  trees. 
They  are  usually  grafted  very  early  in  the  spring.  The  chief 
requisite  is  that  the  cions  be  completely  dormant.  They  should  be 
cut  in  winter  and  stored  in  an  ice-house  or  a  cold  cellar.  It  is 
probable,  however,  that  durable  trees  cannot  be  secured  by  top- 
w^orking. 

The  Japanese  flowering  cherries  are  of  different  species  from 
the  fruit-bearing  cherries,  being  forms  mostly  of  Prunus  serru- 
lata,  P.  Lannesiana,  P.  Sieboldu,  P.  yedocnsis,  and  P.  subhirtcUa. 
These  may  be  worked  on  mazzard  and  other  stocks  of  European 


278  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

origin,  but  the  trees  are  likely  to  be  short-lived  and  unsatisfactory. 
Native  Japanese  stocks  are  to  be  preferred.  The  ornamental 
varieties  of  P.  scrrulata  are  probably  best  worked  on  stocks  of 
P.  scrrulata  var.  sachalinensis  from  the  northern  part  of  Japan, 
particularly  for  the  northern  regions  of  this  country,  as  this  stock 
is  hardy  in  New  England,  Forms  of  the  wild  P.  Lannesiana 
from  Japan,  particularly  the  form  known  as  Mazakura,  are  also 
recommended.  P.  subhirtella  var.  pendula  (known  to  nursery- 
men as  P.  japonica  rosea  pendula)  should  be  grafted  high  on  such 
seedlings  of  P.  subhirfella  as  assume  an  upright  habit.  To  main- 
tain an  upright  stock  of  good  forms  of  P.  subhirtella  itself,  propa- 
gation should  be  from  cuttings  or  it  may  be  grafted  on  its  own 
upright  seedlings. 

Chervil    {Chcerophyllum    hulhosum    and    Anthriscus    Cerefolium). 
UmbellifercB. 
Seed  is  sown  much  the  same  as  celery  seeds,  but  the  plants  are 
usually  allowed   to  stand  where  sown.     Seed  is  often  sown  in 
autumn. 

Chestnut  (Castanea  species).     Fagaceoe. 

Chestnut  stocks  are  grown  from  seed.  Difficulty  is  sometimes 
experienced  in  keeping  the  seeds,  as  they  lose  their  vitality  if 
dried  too  hard,  and  are  likely  to  become  moldy  if  allowed  to  remain 
moist.  The  surest  way  is  to  allow  the  nuts  to  become  well  dried 
off  or  "  seasoned  "  in  the  fall,  and  then  stratify  them  in  a  box  with 
three  or  four  times  as  much  sand  as  chestnuts,  and  bury  the  box  a 
foot  or  tw^o  deep  in  a  warm  soil  until  spring.  They  do  not  always 
keep  well  if  stored  or  stratified  in  a  cellar.  Fall  planting  exposes 
the  nuts  to  squirrels  and  mice.  American  stocks  are  better  tharn 
European,  because  the  latter  are  tender  in  the  North. 

The  stocks  are  worked  by  whip-grafting  above  ground,  the  wound 
being  well  tied  and  protected  by  waxed  cloth.  Care  should  be 
taken  to  have  the  stock  and  cion  about  the  same  size,  in  order  to 
secure  a  good  union.  Chestnuts  can  be  cleft-grafted  like  apples 
and  pears ;  but  in  small  trees  it  is  preferable  to  set  the  grafts 
below  ground,  as  in  grapes.  The  cions  should  be  cut  early,  before 
they  begin  to  swxll,  and  kept  perfectly  dormant  until  the  stock 
begins  to  push  into  leaf.  Only  vigorous  stocks  should  be  grafted. 
The  best  results  are  obtained  when  the  stocks  have  recovered  from 
transplanting,  or  when  they  are  from  three  to  five  years  old.  The 
working  of  chestnut  stocks  is  far  from  satisfactory  in  a  commercial 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  279 

way.  The  union  is  imperfect  in  many  varieties,  and  usually  no 
more  than  half  the  grafts  take  well  and  live  long.  In  all  nut-trees, 
the  skill  of  the  operator  is  more  important  than  the  particular 
method. 

In  regions  where  chestnuts  grow  wild,  orchards  are  sometimes 
made  by  grafting  the  sprouts  or  the  seedlings  that  come  up  in 
cleared  lands. 

Chicory  (Cichorium  Intyhus).     Compositoe. 

The  field  crop,  for  the  roots,  is  grown  from  seeds  sown  directly 
in  the  drills,  1-1^  pounds  to  the  acre. 

As  a  salad  plant,  chicory  is  easily  raised  from  seeds  sown  where 
the  plants  are  to  stand.     See  U^itloof. 

Chilopsis  (Desert  Willow).     Bignoniacew. 

Propagated  by  seeds ;  and  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  in 
bottom  heat. 

Chionanthus  (Fringe  Tree).     Oleacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  in  autumn  or  stratified  till  spring ;  also 
by  layers  and  cuttings  from  forced  plants  in  early  spring.  Grafting 
or  budding  on  the  ash  (as  Fraxinus  Onius)  succeeds  very  well. 

Chionodoxa.     LiliaceoB. 

Propagated  readily  by  seeds,  which  are  sometimes  self-sown. 
If  sown  in  a  frame  as  soon  as  ripe,  the  seeds  may  be  expected  to 
germinate  the  following  winter  or  early  spring.  Also  increased  by 
bulbels  or  offsets. 

Chives,  or  Cives  (Allium  Schoenoprasum).     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  division  of  the  clumps.  The  stools  should  be 
broken  up  and  replanted  every  few  years. 

Chloris.     GraminecB, 

Raised  from  seeds  sown  directly  in  the  open,  or  started  under 
glass  and  transplanted. 

Chlorophytum.     Liliaceae. 

Multiplied  by  division  of  the  tough  root  system  before  the 
plant  begins  new  growth,  or  by  the  suckers  that  naturally  arise; 
also  sometimes  by  seeds,  when  produced.  Usually  known  to 
gardeners  as  anthericum. 


280  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Chorizema.     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  in  March  from  half-ripened  wood,  in  a 
mixture  of  two  parts  sharp  sand  and  one  of  peat,  finely  sifted. 
They  should  be  covered  with  a  bell-glass  with  a  night  temperature 
of  58°  to  60°. 

Chrysalidocarpus.     Palmacece. 

The  Areca  lutescens  of  gardeners :  propagated  by  seeds  in  pans, 
boxes  or  benches,  where  they  are  left  until  two  or  more  leaves  have 
formed ;  the  pan  or  box  may  have  gravel  in  the  bottom.  See 
Palms,  page  377. 

Ckrysanthemum,     CompositoB. 

Many  plants  are  included  in  this  genus,  as  the  florist's  chrysan- 
themum, flower-garden  annuals,  p;^Tethrums,  marguerites,  Shasta 
daisy,  and  hardy  perennials  grown  in  the  border.  All  are  readily 
propagated  by  seeds,  the  perennials  giving  bloom  the  second  year 
or  sometimes  the  first  year.  The  annuals  (C.  coronarium,  C. 
carinatum,  C.  segetum)  are  easily  raised  from  seeds  sown  in  spring 
where  the  plants  are  to  grow ;  and  they  may  be  started  under 
glass  and  transplanted. 

The  perennials  are  grown  from  divisions  of  the  stools  and  also 
from  cuttings.  The  marguerite  or  Paris  daisy  {C .  frutescens)  is  prop- 
agated by  cuttings  of  firm  shoots  in  winter  or  spring ;  blooming 
plants  should  be  had  the  following  winter.    See  Pyrethrum,  page  405. 

The  florist's  chrysanthemum  is  groA\Ti  from  seeds  to  obtain  new 
varieties ;  these  should  be  sown  in  spring  and  plants  should  yield 
good  bloom  the  following  year.  Usually  propagated  by  cuttings 
about  3  inches  long,  of  firm,  healthy,  short-jointed  shoots,  which 
spring  from  the  base  of  the  plant  after  the  flowering  season.  They 
should  be  made  in  late  winter  or  spring,  and  placed  near  the  glass 
of  a  rather  close  frame  having  a  temperature  of  about  45°.  If  in- 
serted in  pots,  only  the  lower  leaf  should  be  removed ;  if  in  beds, 
the  remaining  foliage  should  also  be  trimmed  to  admit  air.  Insert 
about  half  of  the  cutting,  press  the  soil  firmly,  and  water.  Leaf- 
cuttings  have  been  employed.  Inarching  and  grafting  may  also 
be  performed,  when  it  is  desired  to  grow  two  or  more  varieties  on 
one  plant. 

The  time  at  which  chrysanthemum  cuttings  should  be  taken 
depends  on  the  season  at  which  bloom  is  wanted,  and  the  methods 
of  cultivation.  The  plants  may  be  flowered  in  pots,  or  in  a  solid 
soil  bench.     Very  good  small  plants  may  be  brought  to  perfection 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  281 

in  6-inch  pots,  but  the  best  results,  in  pot  plants,  are  to  be  obtained 
in  8-  or  10-inch  pots  or  12-inch  pots  started  in  November  and 
December.  If  the  plants  are  to  })e  used  for  decoration,  they  should, 
of  course,  be  grown  in  pots,  but  the  best  results  for  cut-flowers 
are  usually  obtained  by  growing  in  the  earth.  In  any  case,  the 
cuttings  are  made  from  the  tips  of  basal  or  strong  lateral  shoots 
late  in  February  to  May.  One  form  of  cutting  is  shown  in  Fig.  1 18. 
If  the  plants  are  to  be  flowered  in  pots  —  in  which  case  they  usually 
mature  earlier  —  the  cuttings  may  be  started  as  late  as  April,  or 
even  June ;  but  if  they  are  grown  in  the  soil  and  large  plants  are 
desired,  the  cuttings  should  be  taken  in  February  or  March.  The 
plants  which  are  flowered  in  the  soil  are  generally  grown  in  pots 
until  July.  The  plants  are  flowered  but  once,  new  ones  being 
grown  from  cuttings  each  year. 

Sometimes  the  old. stools  of  florist's  chrysanthemum  are  divided 
before  growth  begins  in  spring,  but  this  is  unusual.  Suckers, 
partially  rooted  or  used  as  cuttings,  may  also  be  taken  from  the 
old  crowns. 

Chrysobalanus  (Cocoa-Plum).     Rosaceoe. 

Increased  by  seeds ;   also  by  cuttings  of  half -ripened  wood. 

Chrysophyllum  (Star-Apple).     SapotacecB, 

Grown  from  fresh  seeds ;  also  by  cuttings  of  well-ripened  shoots 
in  heat. 

Chufa  {Cyperus  esculcntus).     CyperaceoB. 

Freely  propagated  by  the  little  tubers,  planted  in  spring  where 
the  plants  are  to  grow. 

Cicer  (Chick-Pea.  Garbanza).     Leguminosae. 

Seeds  sown  in  spring  where  the  plants  are  to  grow  propagate 
the  plant  freely. 

Cimicifuga  (Bugbane).     RanunculaceoB. 

Grown  from  seeds  sow^n  when  mature,  the  seed-bed  being  kept 
cool  and  moist ;  plants  wdll  probably  not  appear  till  spring ;  also 
from  divisions  in  fall  or  spring. 

Cinchona  (Peruvian  Bark).     Ruhiaceae. 

In  greenhouses,  propagated  by  mature-wood  cuttings  in  heat 
or  from  imported  seeds.  In  the  tropics  by  seeds,  with  only  a  thin 
covering  of  earth ;  protect  from  rain  and  sun  and  keep  uniformly 
moist;   transplanted  when  about  2  inches  high.» 


282  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Cineraria  {Senecio  cruentus).     CompositoB. 

Raised  from  seeds,  usually  from  well-grown  commercial  seed 
The  florist's  cineraria  is  usually  a  winter  and  spring  bloomer. 
Two  batches  of  seedlings  are  usually  raised  for  succession,  one 
from  seed  sown  in  August  and  another  in  September  or  early 
October.  If  bloom  is  wanted  for  earlv  winter  or  late  autumn, 
seed  should  be  sown  in  May.  Seed  is  sown  in  pans,  flats  or  pots 
on  the  surface  of  finely  prepared  and  leveled  soil  and  covered  with 
sifted  sand.  Water  with  care,  keep  uniformly  moist,  protect 
from  drafts  and  direct  sun,  and  prick  out  as  soon  as  large  enough 
to  handle.  Keep  them  shifted  as  needed,  not  in  too  large  pots  at 
each  shift,  and  growing  without  check  ;  do  not  allow^  them  to  bloom 
prematurely. 

Cinnamomum.     LauraceoB. 

Increased  by  cuttings  and  seeds.  The  seeds  should  be  sown  as 
soon  as  ripe  in  a  shaded  bed,  the  seedlings  being  transplanted  when 
very  small  into  pots  and  kept  until  set  out  permanently.  Cuttings 
of  half-ripened  wood  may  be  rooted  in  the  spring  in  moderate 
heat,  in  coarse  sand.  In  this  genus  are  included  cinnamon, 
camphor  and  cassia-bark. 

Cissus.     Vitaceoe. 

Grown  from  seeds,  when  obtainable ;  also  by  cuttings  of  green 
or  mature  wood.  Handled  essentially  as  for  the  grape,  ampelopsis 
and  parthenocissus. 

Cistus  (Rock  Rose).     CistaceoB. 

Seeds  sown  in  flats  or  pans  in  spring,  protected  from  sun,  give 
good  results ;  by  layers ;  by  cuttings  under  glass  in  peaty  soil  in 
late  spring  or  summer. 

Citron  {Citrus  Medico).     RufaceoB. 

Propagated  from  seeds ;  by  mature  cuttings,  the  same  as  the 
lemon ;  and  more  commonly  by  budding  on  sour  orange,  sweet 
orange  or  lemon  stocks.     See  under  Orange. 

CitruUus :   Watermelon. 

Citrus.     RutacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  layers,  cuttings,  inarching,  grafting  and 
budding.  For  particular  methods,  see  Grapefruit,  Kumquat, 
Lemon,  Lime,  Orange. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  283 

Cladrastis  (Yellow-wood.     Virgilia).     Leguminosce. 

Multiplied  by  seeds  in  the  open  air  in  spring,  or  by  cuttings  of 
the  root,  dug  in  fall  and  kept  in  sand  or  moss,  moderately  moist  and 
cool,  until  spring. 

Clarkia.     OnagrocecB. 

Raised  readily  from  seeds  sown  in  spring,  either  in  the  open  or 
started  indoors. 

Clavija.     Myrsinaceoe. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots. 

Clematis  (Virgin's  Bower).     RanuncuIaceoB. 

Seeds  gathered  as  soon  as  ripe  and  stratified  till  spring  usually 
grow  freely.  Layers  may  be  employed,  put  down  preferably  in 
fall  or  spring.     Some  species,  as  C.  recta,  are  increased  by  division. 

The  kinds  of  clematis  can  be  grown  from  cuttings  of  young 
shoots,  cut  to  single  eyes  and  rooted  in  sand  under  glass  in  summer. 
Cuttings  of  nearly  ripe  wood  may  also  be  similarly  used  in  summer. 

The  named  varieties  are  grafted  on  pieces  of  roots  of  C.  Flam- 
mula  or  C.  Viticella  or  others,  the  roots  being  taken  from  estab- 
lished plants  in  the  open.  The  cions  are  taken  from  house-grown 
plants,  and  the  grafts  are  handled  in  a  cool  greenhouse  in  summer 
to  fall  or  winter,  whenever  roots  and  good  cions  are  available. 

Cleome  (Spider  Plant).     CapparidacecB. 

The  commonly  cultivated  cleomes  are  annuals  or  treated  as 
such.  Seeds  may  be  sown  under  cover  in  spring  and  the  plants 
transferred  to  permanent  quarters  out  of  doors  ;  or  the  sowing  may 
be  directly  in  the  open.  Cuttings  of  the  perennial  kinds  may  be 
struck  in  heat. 

Clerodendron.     Verhenaceos. 

Raised  from  seeds  and  cuttings,  usually  started  in  small  pots 
in  a  soil  of  sand  and  peat  (or  leaf-mold).  They  should  be  started  in 
a  rather  close  temperature  of  about  70°.  Cuttings  are  usually 
taken  from  half-ripened  wood. 

Clethra  (White  Alder).     Clethracece. 

Grcwn  from  seeds  sown  in  spring  in  pans  in  sandy-peaty  soil 
Propagated  also  by  greenwood  cuttings  under  glass  ;  by  layers  and 
division  of  large  plants. 


284  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Clianthus  (Glory-Pea.)     LeguminosoB. 

The  brilliant  C.  Dampieri  is  raised  from  seeds,  when  procurable. 
C.  puniceus  and  others  grow  from  cuttings  in  sand  in  bottom  heat 
and  also  from  seeds.  In  Germany  and  England  C.  Dampieri  has 
been  handled  successfully  on  small  seedling  stocks  of  Colutea 
arhorescens.  The  colutea  is  sown  a  few  days  before  the  clianthus, 
and  after  the  cotyledons  are  formed  on  the  colutea  the  hypocotyl 
(or  stem)  is  split  down  the  center,  the  cotyledons  being  retained ; 
into  this  cleft  is  inserted  the  seedling  clianthus,  being  tied  with 
very  fine  raffia;  in  a  warm  case,  union  will  take  place  in  four  or 
five  days. 

Clintonia.     Liliajcece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  division  of  the  root  in  spring.  The 
clintonias  of  seedsmen  are  downingias  (Campanulacese),  garden 
annuals  readily  grown  from  seeds. 

Clitoria  (Butterfly-Pea).     Leguminosoe. 

Easily  grown  from  seeds,  which  are  usually  produced  freely; 
also  handled  from  firm-wood  cuttings  under  glass. 

Clivia,  Imantophyllum.     AmaryllidaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  division.  The  common  species,  C. 
miniataf  is  readily  handled  by  dividing  the  old  roots  when  the  pot 
becomes  crowded. 

Clover  (Trifolium  species).     Leguminosce. 

The  clovers  are  raised  from  seed.  Some  of  them  are  annual, 
as  crimson  clover ;  others  perennial,  as  white  clover ;  others  short- 
lived perennials,  as  red  clover.  Seed  is  usually  sown  in  early 
spring  with  a  nurse  crop,  particularly  with  wheat.  The  quantity 
of  red  clover  seed  sown  to  the  acre  in  grain  fields  is  10  to  14  or 
16  pounds ;  of  alsike  about  the  same  quantity.  White  clover  is 
sown  about  10  to  12  pounds  to  the  acre ;  for  lawns,  twice  this 
quantity.  Crimson  clover  for  cover-crop  in  the  open  field  is  sown 
15  to  20  pounds  to  the  acre.  Red  clover  is  usually  sown  on  the 
surface  in  wheat  fields,  without  covering,  the  land  at  the  time 
being  not  yet  dry  and  hard.  Probably  better  results  are  to  be 
expected  by  waiting  till  the  ground  is  settled,  harrowing  lightly 
for  seed-bed  and  harrowing  again  after  sowing. 

Japan  clover  is  a  lespedeza ;  used  for  hay ;  sown  about  12 
pounds  to  the  acre.  Sweet  clover  is  melilotus  ;  sown  about  2  pecks 
to  acre. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  285 

Clytostoma.     BignoniacecB. 

Propagation  as  for  bignonia,  which  see.  The  tall  climber  grown 
as  Bignonia  speciosa  is  now  known  as  C.  callistegioides. 

Cobaea.     Polemoniaceae. 

The  common  C.  scandens,  although  perennial,  is  handled  as  an 
annual,  and  is  readily  raised  from  fresh  seed  in  spring,  if  a  gentle 
bottom  heat  is  supplied.  It  is  often  said  that  the  seeds  must  be 
placed  on  edge,  but  this  is  a  mistake.  Exercise  care  not  to  keep 
the  seed  soil  too  moist.  Also  may  be  grown  from  young  cuttings 
in  spring  in  bottom  heat. 

Coccinia.     Cucurhitaceae. 

Treated  as  annual  climbers,  grown  from  early-started  seeds. 

Coccoloba  (Seaside-Grape).     Polygonaceoe. 

Plentifully  propagated  by  seeds ;  by  cuttings  of  ripened  wood 
in  sand  under  glass ;  layering  may  also  be  employed. 

Cocculus.     Menispermacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  and  also  by  half-ripened  cuttings  of  side 
shoots,  in  summer  under  glass. 

Cochliostema.     Commelinaceoe. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  in  shallow  pans  of  light  peaty  soil  and 
placed  in  a  warm  close  atmosphere.  PoUination  may  need  to  be 
assisted  for  the  production  of  good  seeds. 

Coconut  (Cocos  nucifera).     PahnaceoB. 

The  nuts  are  buried  in  nursery  rows,  and  the  young  trees  are 
transplanted.  Another  practice  is  to  remove  the  buried  nuts, 
when  they  begin  to  sprout,  to  the  place  in  which  the  tree  is  to  stand. 
A  nut  is  then  placed  in  a  hole  some  2  feet  deep,  which  is  gradually 
filled  in  as  the  plant  grows.  In  six  to  eight  years  the  tree  begins  to 
bear.  The  best  method  is  to  plant  the  ripe  nuts  in  seed-beds 
and  transplant  the  seedlings  to  the  nursery  when  about  6  inches 
high,  which  will  usually  be  six  months  or  more  from  the  time  of 
planting.     See  Palms,  page  377. 

Cocos.     PalmacecB. 

Most  species  increased  by  seeds  in  heat ;  some  by  suckers.  See 
Coconut. 


286  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Codiaeum  (Croton  of  gardeners).     Euphorhiacece. 

New  varieties  are  produced  by  seed,  started  in  heat.  Cut- 
tings of  half-ripened  wood  taken  in  winter  or  spring  make  good 
plants  if  struck  in  a  bottom  heat  of  80°.  Large  branches  may  be 
mossed  (air-layered)  and  made  thereby  into  separate  plants ;  this 
treatment  is  often  also  employed  with  old  tall  plants  :  an  incision 
is  made  in  the  stem  beneath  the  crown  of  leaves  and  moss  is 
tied  about  the  plant,  and  in  about  three  weeks  it  should  be  ready 
to  be  severed  and  potted. 

Coelogyne.     Orchidacece. 

Propagated  by  division  and  by  taking  off  the  back  bu'.bs.  See 
Orchids,  page  372. 

Coffea  (Coffee).     RubicicecB. 

Under  glass  as  an  ornamental  or  "  economic  "  plant,  coffee  may 
be  grown  from  ripe  cuttings. 

As  a  crop  in  the  tropics,  coffee  is  raised  from  seeds.  Sometimes 
volunteer  seedlings  in  old  plantations  are  used,  but  it  is  best  to 
plant  the  seeds,  after  the  pulp  is  removed,  in  carefully  prepared 
shaded  seed-beds,  well  protected  from  heavy  rains.  In  ten  to  twelve 
weeks,  the  plants  should  be  ready  to  transplant  to  nursery  rows, 
the  first  foliage  leaves  having  appeared.  The  tap-roots  are  cut 
back.  After  about  five  pairs  of  true  leaves  are  developed,  the 
plants  may  be  set  in  the  field ;  they  should  bear  in  three  or  four 
vears. 

Coix  (Job's  Tears).     GramineoB. 

Grown  from  seeds,  sometimes  started  indoors  with  heat. 

Colchicum  (Autumn  Crocus).     LiliacecB. 

Increased  by  seeds,  as  soon  as  ripe,  June  to  July  ;  also  propagated 
by  separation  just  after  the  leaves  die,  end  of  June  or  early  July. 

Coleus.     Lahiatoe. 

Multiplied  by  seeds  (which  grow  readily)  for  new  varieties  ;  also 
by  cuttings  of  soft  growing  shoots  with  the  greatest  ease  at  any 
season.     Fig.  117. 

Collards  (Brassica  oleracea  var.  acephala).     Cruciferce. 

Grown  from  seeds,  in  the  South  started  in  February  and  March 
so  that  growth  may  be  made  before  hot  weather,  in  the  North  in 
July  or  August  so  that  the  growth  may  be  made  before  winter. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  287 

Collinsia.     ScrophulariaccoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  the  fall  outdoors  in  well-drained 
soil  and  protected  over  winter ;  may  also  be  sown  in  spring  for 
later  bloom. 

Colocasia.     Araceoe. 

Propagation  as  for  caladium,  by  offsets  of  the  tubers  or  "  bulbs." 
Taro  is  the  tuberous  roots  of  C.  antiquorum  or  C.  esculenta.  Dasheen 
is  another  form.     Consult  Caladium,,  page  265. 

Colutea  (Bladder  Senna).     Leguminosae. 

Multiplied  hv  seeds  sown  in  spring,  and  by  cuttings  in  sandy  soil 
in  autumn.  Rare  kinds  are  sometimes  grafted  on  C.  arhorescens 
in  spring  under  glass. 

Comfrey:  Symphytum. 

Commelina.     Commelinaceoe. 

Grown  from  seeds  sown  in  a  frame  early  in  April ;  also  by 
cuttings,  which  will  root  in  sand,  in  a  gentle  hotbed,  in  March  or 
April.     Sometimes  propagated  by  division  of  the  tubers. 

Comptonia  (Comptonia  aspJenifolia).     Sweet  Fern.     Myricacew. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  by  dividing  the  clumps,  and  by  layers,  by 
some  botanists,  this  interesting  native  plant  is  included  in  Myrica, 
as  M.  asplenifolia. 

Conifers.     Conifera. 

When  procurable,  seeds  are  the  readiest  means  of  propagating 
all  the  cone-bearing  family.  Cuttings  or  grafts  are  employed  when 
seeds  are  not  obtainable  and  for  forms  or  varieties  that  do  not  come 
true  from  seeds  or  of  which  seeds  cannot  be  obtained.  See  ChamW' 
cyparis,  Thuja  and  others.     Cuttings  usually  root  readily. 

Seeds  are  gathered  as  soon  as  ripe.  The  cones  of  some  species, 
as  the  white  pine  and  the  firs,  empty  themselves  of  seeds  very  early 
and  the  cones  must  be  taken  before  they  open.  Of  some  species  the 
cones  remain  closed  for  years,  and  they  are  opened  by  roasting  them 
m  ovens,  care  being  taken  that  the  seeds  are  not  injured  by  the 
heat.  Seeds  of  conifers  are  kept  in  tight  boxes  or  bags  in  a  cool 
dry  room  and  sown  in  spring  in  a  carefully  prepared  seed-bed ; 
take  care  not  to  have  the  bed  too  wet. 

Seeds  of  some  of  the  soft-fruited  kinds,  as  the  junipers  and 
yews,  should  be  macerated  and  then  cleaned  by  rubbing  in  sand 
Often  these  seeds  lie  a  year  before  germinating. 


288  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Convallaria  (Lily-of-the-Valley).     LiliaceoB. 

Handled  by  "  crowns  "  or  **  pips,"  which  are  the  separated  grow- 
ing points  of  the  roots,  possessing  a  strong  bud.  These  crowns  can 
be  obtained  from  any  well-estabHshed  bed  in  the  fall,  but  they  are 
usually  imported.     Plants  may  be  divided  in  spring.     Fig.  56. 

Convolvulus  (Bindweed).     Convohulacece. 

Annuals  and  perennials  ;  the  former  are  easily  grown  from  seeds 
sown  in  the  open  or  under  glass ;  the  latter  by  seeds,  by  cuttings 
of  young  wood,  and  by  division. 

Corchorus  (Jute).     TiliaceoB.     ^ 

Annuals  of  warm  countries  easily  grown  from  seeds  ;  others  are 
perennial  and  grown  from  seeds,  cuttings  and  division,  but  they 
are  little  known  in  cultivation. 

Cordia.     Boraginaceas. 

Increased  by  seeds,  cuttings  of  firm  wood  in  heat. 

Cordyline.     Liliaceoe. 

Seeds  when  obtainable  ;  cuttings  ;  root-cuttings  ;  air-layering. 
The  dracaenas  of  gardeners  are  cordylines.  They  are  readily 
handled,  as  described  by  Eisele,  by  cutting  the  ripened  stems  or 
trunks,  from  which  all  leaves  have  been  removed,  into  pieces  2  to 
4  inches  long.  These  are  laid  either  in  very  light  soil  or  in  sand  in 
the  propagating-bed,  where  they  receive  a  bottom  heat  of  about 
80°,  being  barely  covered  with  sand  or  moss.  The  eyes  soon 
start  into  growth,  and,  as  soon  as  they  have  developed  about  six 
leaves,  these  shoots  are  cut  off  with  a  small  heel  and  again  placed 
in  the  propagating-bed  until  rooted,  after  which  they  are  potted  off 
into  small  pots  in  light  soil,  kept  close  until  they  become  established. 
The  plant  known  in  the  market  as  Braccma  induisa  grows  readily 
from  seeds.     Figs.  68,  92,  104,  119. 

Coreopsis,  Calliopsis.     Compositce. 

The  annuals  are  readily  grown  from  seeds  started  in  the  house  or 
sown  directly  in  the  open.  The  perennials  are  grown  from  seed, 
by  cuttings  of  growing  wood  in  summer,  and  by  division. 

Coriander  {Coriandrum  sativum).      UmbeUifercp. 
Seeds  are  sown  in  fall  or  spring ;  they  grow  readily. 

Corn:  Maize. 


THE    NURSERY-LIST  289 

Corn-Salad  (Valerianella  olitoria).     Valcrianacece. 

Grown  from  seeds  sown  in  spring,  late  summer  or  autumn.  The 
plants  mature  quickly  in  cool  weather. 

Cornus  (Dogwood.     Osier).     Cornacece. 

Propagated  by  seed,  suckers,  layers  and  cuttings.  Seeds  usually* 
germinate  the  second  year,  being  stratified  the  first  winter.  The 
herbaceous  species,  C.  canadensis  and  C.  suecica,  may  be  increased 
by  division,  as  also  by  seeds.  The  willow-like  soft-wooded  cor- 
nuses  grow  from  cuttings  of  ripe  wood,  C.  sfolonifera  and  its  kin 
by  layers  or  stolons.  They  are  often  raised  from  firm-wood  cut- 
tings in  summer  in  frames.  Named  varieties  and  some  species  are 
budded  in  many  cases,  especially  all  the  weak-growing  sorts.  If 
possible,  the  stock  should  be  the  same  species  as  the  horticultural 
variety  when  graftage  is  employed.  Cornus  mas,  raised  from 
seed,  is,  however,  a  favorite  stock.  Shield-budding  in  late  summer 
and  veneer-grafting  are  most  successful.     Fig.  99. 

Coronilla.     Leguminosae. 

Mostly  grown  from  seeds  and  by  division.  Cuttings  of  young 
wood  are  sometimes  employed,  handled  in  a  frame  or  a  greenhouse. 

Cortaderia  (Pampas-Grass).     Graminece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  started  under  glass  in  the  North ;  also 
increased  by  dividing  the  clumps.  The  pampas-grass  was  formerly 
included  in  the  genus  Gynerium. 

Corydalis.     Fumariaceae. 

Grown  from  seeds  and  by  division ;  the  bulbous-rooted  species 
by  offsets. 

Corylopsis.     HamamelidaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  spring,  with  slight  bottom  heat, 
and  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood  in  summer  under  glass ; 
also  by  layers  which  root  readily  in  moderately  moist  peaty  soil. 

Corylus  (Hazel.     Filbert.     Cobnut).     BehdacecE. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  suckers,  layers  and  cuttings.  Grafting 
and  budding  are  each  practicable,  and  are  adopted  when  growing 
tall  standards  or  scarce  varieties.  The  seed  should  be  sown  as 
soon  as  gathered,  or  stored  in  sand  (stratified)  till  the  following 
spring.  All  superior  varieties  should  be  increased  by  suckers  or 
layers.     Stools  kept  for  layering  must  be  allowed  to  make  mor« 


290  THb   NURSERY-MANUAL 

growth  than  those  used  for  suckers.  Free  growth  must  be  en- 
couraged for  a  year  or  more,  and,  any  suitable  time  in  winter,  the 
shoots  should  be  bent  to  the  ground,  pegged  firmly  and  covered 
to  the  depth  of  3  inches  with  earth.  They  will  be  well  rooted  b;y 
the  following  autumn,  and  may  then  be  removed  and  planted  out 
permanently. 

Corypha.     Palmacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds.     See  Palms,  page  377. 

Cosmidium :    Thelespervia. 

Cosmos.     CompositcB. 

Readily  grown  from  seeds.  In  short-season  climates  the  seeds 
would  better  be  started  indoors. 

Costus.     Zingiber  aceoB. 

Propagated  by  cutting  the  canes  or  stalks  into  pieces  an  inch  or 
so  in  length,  and  planting  in  sifted  peat  or  fine  moss  and  sand, 
covering  lightly.  Also  increased  by  dividing  the  roots  and  by 
seeds. 

Cotinus  (Smoke-Tree).     Anacardiacem. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  root-cuttings  and  layers.  By  many 
botanists  retained  in  the  genus  Rhus,  as  R.  Cotinus. 

Cotoneaster.     RosacecB. 

Grown  from  fall-sown  or  stratified  seeds ;  also  by  autumn 
layers,  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood  under  glass  in  late  summer. 
Some  kinds  may  be  grafted  on  seedling  stocks  of  C.  integerrima 
{C.  vulgaris),  common  quince,  hawthorn  or  mountain  ash. 

Cotton  (Gossypium).     Malvacece. 

Cotton  is  grown  from  seeds  dropped  where  the  plants  are  to 
atand.  In  the  southern  states  the  planting  runs  from  April  15 
to  May  15.  The  plants  are  thinned  as  they  stand  to  12  to  2^ 
inches  ;  the  rows  are  3^  to  4  feet  apart.  About  one  bushel  of  seea 
is  sufficient  to  the  acre,  although  two  to  three  times  this  quantity 
is  sometimes  used. 

As  a  greenhouse  subject,  cotton  is  sometimes  raised  from  soft 
cuttings. 

Cotyledon  (Navelwort).     CrassulacecB. 

Propagated  by  seed,  offsets,  cuttings  of  the  stem  and  of  leaves. 
The  greenhouse  kinds  (as  C.  gibhiflora)  are  grown  from  steai 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  291 

cuttings  2  or  3  inches  long.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  stand  them  on  moss 
in  pots ;  roots  will  form  in  the  moss.  Old  shoots  past  flowering 
may  be  cut  and  crowded  together  in  shallow  boxes  and  kept  warm 
and  dry  to  force  side-shoots  for  cuttings. 

The  carpet-bedding  kinds  are  propagated  in  November  and 
December  from  leaves,  giving  plants  for  the  next  season's  work. 
The  leaf  is  gently  twisted  off,  with  the  dormant  axillary  bud  intact. 
The  leaves  are  laid  on  their  backs  in  a  depression  in  the  sand  of 
the  propagating-bed  in  two  rows  so  that  the  butts  touch ;  at  their 
butts  they  are  covered  about  2  inches  deep.  Withhold  water  till 
roots  form,  and  water  sparingly  thereafter.  Three  or  four  weeks 
are  required  for  rooting. 

The  above  directions  apply  also  to  echeveria. 

Cowpea  (Vigna  sinensis).     Leguirimosce. 

Frost-tender  annual  grown  from  seeds  sown  when  weather  be- 
comes warm,  1  to  Ij  bushels  to  the  acre. 

Crambe  (Sea-Kale).     CrucifercB. 
Raised  easilv  from  seed. 

Cranberry  {Vaccinium  macrocarpon).  Ericaceae.  (Elizabeth  C. 
White). 

The  commercial  propagation  of  cranberries  is  entirely  by  cuttings. 
These  are  obtained  by  mowing  with  a  scythe  the  vigorous  vines  on  a 
well-established  bog.  The  vines  should  be  cut  immediately  after 
the  withdrawal  of  the  winter  flowage  ;  or,  if  from  an  unflowed  bog, 
before  growth  starts  in  the  spring.  In  case  the  new  area  to  be 
planted  is  not  entirely  prepared,  the  cut  vines  should  be  made  into 
bales  and  entirely  submerged  in  water.  In  this  way  they  may 
be  kept  in  perfect  condition  for  planting  for  a  month  to  six  weeks 
or  even  longer. 

After  the  ground  has  been  drained,  leveled  and  sanded,  —  if 
sanding  is  desired,  —  the  cuttings,  preferably  8  to  12  inches  long, 
are  thrust  obliquely  into  the  soil  at  the  middle  with  a  bhuit 
instrument,  leaving  about  2  inches  of  each  end  exposed.  In 
planting  on  sanded  ground,  care  should  be  taken  that  the  cutting 
reaches  into  the  muck  below  the  sand.  The  cuttings  should  be 
set  three  or  four  in  a  place  and  12  to  18  inches  apart.  In 
soft  ground  the  cuttings  may  sometimes  be  pushed  directly  into 
the  soil  without  previously  making  a  hole,  but  more  frequently  it 
is  desirable  first  to  make  a  hole  with  a  dibble  or  similar  tool,  and 


292  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

to  firm  the  soil  about  the  cuttings  after  they  are  placed.  Various 
tools  have  been  developed  for  making  holes  and  pushing  in  the 
cuttings  when  planting  bogs  in  the  various  sections  where  this 
fruit  is  grown.  The  use  of  some  of  these  implements  necessitates 
the  worker  kneeling  on  the  ground ;  others  can  be  used  as  the 
workers  stand. 

Cross-pollination  or  hybridization  by  man  has  had  no  part  in 
the  production  of  the  various  commercial  varieties  of  cranberries, 
Early  Blacks,  Howes,  Centennials,  and  the  like.  All  these  have 
resulted  from  the  selection  of  choice  wild  stocks  and  their  propa- 
gation by  cuttings.  However,  seeds  may  be  sown  with  the  hope  of 
obtaining  new  varieties,  the  methods  being  those  in  general  recom- 
mended for  Ericaceae  (p.  308).  The  seeds  are  stratified  till  spring, 
and  the  seedlings  are  allowed  to  grow  the  first  year  in  the  seed-box 
or  well  prepared  seed-bed. 

Crassula.     CrassulaeeoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds ;  usually  by  cuttings,  which  should  be 
laid  in  the  sun  to  dry  before  planting.  If  cutting  shoots  do  not 
form,  as  in  C.  falcata,  the  plants  may  be  headed  back  to  encourage 
adventitious  growths. 

Crataegus  (Haw.  Hawthorn).     RosacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  fall  or  stratified.  The  pulp  should 
first  be  removed  by  maceration,  decay,  or  rubbing  in  sand.  Seeds 
may  continue  to  germinate  the  second  and  third  years.  The  seed- 
lings should  be  transplanted  when  a  year  (one  season)  old  to  prevent 
the  formation  of  long  hard  roots.  The  varieties  are  grafted,  rarely 
budded,  on  common  stocks,  mostly  on  the  European  hawthorn,  C. 
Oxyacantha. 

Cress  {Lepidium  sativwri).     CruciferoB. 

Raised  from  seeds,  sown  in  spring  or  late  summer.  It  does  best 
in  the  cool  season.     See  Water-Cress. 

Crinum.     AmaryllidacecB. 

Raised  mostly  from  offsets  of  the  bulbs ;  also  by  seeds,  partic- 
ularly for  new  varieties,  in  a  warm  temperature.  See  Amarylli 
dacecE,  page  228. 

Crocosmia.     IridacecB. 

Offsets  or  cormels  are  used  for  propagation,  as  for  gladiolus 
Seeds  may  be  employed,  sown  under  glass  when  ripe. 


THE    NURSERY-LIST  293 

Crocus.     Iridac&OB. 

Multiplied  by  the  offsets  or  new  corms  that  form  on  top  or  on 
the  side  of  the  old  corm.  These  are  handled  as  are  the  cormels  of 
gladiolus  and  similar  things,  making  blooming  plants  in  one  or 
two  years.  Propagation  is  often  effected  by  seeds,  which  are 
likely  to  be  overlooked  because  they  form  near  the  surface  of  the 
ground.  The  seeds  are  sown  in  pots  or  boxes  and  exposed  to 
freezing  before  germination.  Blooming  plants  should  be  had  in 
three  years. 

Crotalaria  (Rattle-Box).     Leguminosce. 

Multiplied  by  seeds  sown  early  indoors,  after  being  soaked  in 
warm  water;  the  shrubby  kinds  by  greenwood  cuttings  in  sand 
under  glass. 

Croton :   Codiceum. 

Crucianella  (Crosswort).     RuhiacecB. 

Handled  mostly  by  division  of  the  plants ;  also  by  seeds  and 
sometimes  by  soft  cuttings. 

Cryptanthus.     Bromeliaceoe. 

Propagation  as  for  billbergia,  which  see.  C.  zonatus  is  the 
common  species,  usually  grown  as  tillandsia ;  it  makes  parts  that 
may  be  used  as  offsets. 

Cryptomeria  (Japan  Cedar).     Pinacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  ;  also  by  cuttings  of  growing  wood  in  sandy 
soil  under  glass  which  often,  as  in  the  var.  clegans,  root  freely. 
The  horticultural  varieties  are  sometimes  increased  by  grafting  on 
stocks  of  the  species  itself. 

Cucumber  (Cucumis  sativus).     CucurbitacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds.  If  sown  outdoors,  the  operation  should 
be  delayed  until  the  weather  is  thoroughly  settled.  The  early 
outdoor  crop  is  grown  from  seeds  started  indoors  in  pots  or  pint 
berry-boxes,  as  the  plants  do  not  remove  well  if  the  roots  are 
disturbed. 

Cucumis :  Cucumber,  Gherkin,  Melon. 

Cucurbita:  Gourd,  Pumpkin,  Squash. 

Cucurbitaceae.     Cucurbits. 

The  common  method  of  propagating  all  species  and  varieties  of 
cucurbits  is  by  seeds,  which    are    large  and    usually  germinate 


294  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

quickly  if  sown  in  warm  weather  or  in  a  warm  bouse.  The  cucurbits 
are  frost-tender.  Seeds  retain  their  germinating  quaHties  for  a 
number  of  years.  Special  kinds  may  be  increased  by  cuttings, 
which  root  quickly  in  brisk  heat. 

Cunninghamia.     PinacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds ;  also  by  cuttings  of  growing  wood  in  late 
summer  under  glass.  For  symmetrical  specimens,  cuttings  should 
be  taken  from  leading  shoots  on  strong  branches  or  from  short 
shoots  arising  on  the  old  wood. 

Cuphea.     LythraceoB. 

Usually  grown  from  seeds,  the  plants  being  treated  as  annuals. 
The  more  shrubby  kinds,  as  C.  ignea,  are  grown  from  cuttings  of 
firm  wood. 

Cupressus  (Cypress).     Pinacece. 

Handled  as  are  the  species  of  chamsecyparis,  by  cuttings  and 
seeds. 

Curculigo.     Amaryllidacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  ;  also  by  suckers  from  the  base  of  the  stem. 
Before  potting,  place  the  pieces  in  the  sand-bed  of  a  warm  prop- 
agating-house  for  a  few  days. 

Curcuma.     ZingiberaceoB. 

Increased  by  division  of  tubers  or  roots  in  spring. 

Currant  {Ribes  vulgare,  R.  nigrum  and  R.  odoratum).    Saxifragacew. 

New  varieties  are  originated  from  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in  thr 
fall  or  stratified  until  spring.  They  are  planted  in  a  well-protected 
and  carefully  prepared  seed-bed,  and  usually  grow  readily.  Bear- 
ing plants  should  be  had  in  three  or  four  years. 

Commercial  varieties  are  nearly  always  multiplied  by  hard- 
wood cuttings.  The  cuttings  may  be  taken  in  spring  and  placed 
directly  in  the  ground,  but  better  results  are  obtained  by  taking 
them  in  the  fall  or  late  summer.  Many  nurserymen  prefer  to  take 
them  in  August,  strip  off  the  leaves,  and  bury  them  in  bunches  with 
the  butts  up.  They  may  remain  in  this  condition  or  in  a  cellar  all 
winter,  or  they  may  be  planted  in  the  fall.  Currant  cuttings  strike 
readily,  however,  under  any  method.  Some  growers  cut  out  the 
buds  that  stand  below  the  surface  of  the  ground,  to  prevent 
suckering,  but  this  is  not  generally  practiced ;   the  suckers  are  cut 


THE    NURSERY-LIST  295 

off  when  the  cuttings  are  removed  from  the  cutting-bed,  either  to 
be  sold  or  to  be  transplanted  into  nursery  rows.  Strong  plants, 
such  as  eastern  markets  demand,  are  usually  obtained  by  allowing 
the  cuttings  to  stand  for  two  years  before  sale.     Fig.  HI. 

Green  layering  is  sometimes  practiced  with  rare  sorts,  or  single 
eyes  may  be  used,  as  in  grapes.  Tip-layering,  as  in  the  black  rasp- 
berry, may  also  be  employed. 

Weak  or  low  sorts  are  sometimes  grafted  on  stronger  ones,  in 
order  to  give  them  a  tree  form,  but  such  bushes  are  grown  only  as 
curiosities  or  as  specimen  plants. 

Cyanophyllum :   Miconia. 

Cyathea.     CyatheacecB. 

Propagated  by  spores.     See  Ferns,  page  312. 

Cycas.     Cycadacece. 

Propagated  by  seed,  and  oftener  by  suckers.  The  seeds  will 
keep  for  a  month  or  more  after  they  get  ripe.  They  are  best  sown 
in  shallow  boxes  or  benches,  covered  in  sand,  and  potted  soon  after 
germination. 

Some,  and  perhaps  all,  of  the  cycads  can  be  propagated  by 
sections  of  the  old  stem  or  trunk.  Cut  the  trunk  into  truncheons 
2  or  3  inches  thick,  usually  slanting ;  let  the  pieces  dry  a  few 
days  to  guard  against  rotting,  then  plant  in  pots  or  sand.  Roots 
will  form  between  the  scales,  and  new  plants  will  push  out.  These 
should  be  removed  and  treated  as  independent  plants.  The 
severed  crown  of  the  trunk  may  also  be  potted,  and  it  will  grow. 

Cyclamen.     PrimulaceoB. 

Propagated  by  fresh  seed,  usuallv  sown  by  florists  in  early 
winter.  The  plants  should  be  shifted  as  needed  and  kept  growing. 
Bloom  may  be  expected  in  about  fifteen  months.  Old  tubers  may 
be  used  for  second  blooming,  but  seeds  give  best  results. 

The  hardy  cyclamens,  which  are  little  known  in  this  country,  are 
grown  from  seed  handled  in  frames  or  seed-beds  in  the  open ;  also 
by  division. 

Cydonia:  Quince,  Choenomeles. 

The  Japan  quince  is  now  named  in  the  genus  Chaenomeles. 

Cymbidium.     Orchidacece. 

Multiplied  by  division  of  the  roots.     See  Orchids,  page  372. 


296  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Cypella.     Iridaceoe. 

Propagated  by  offsets  (cormels)  and  by  seed  as  soon  as  ripe. 

Cyperus.     CyperaxieoB. 

Propagated  either  by  seed-heat,  or  by  divisions.  C.  alternifolius, 
the  umbrella-plant,  propagates  readily  from  the  crown  or  rosette  of 
leaves.  Cut  off  the  crown,  with  an  inch  or  two  of  stem  remaining, 
and  set  on  sand  or  moss.  Cut  in  the  leaves.  New  plants  will 
start  from  the  axils.     See  Papyrus. 

Cyphomandra  (Tree  Tomato).     SolanaceoB. 

Seeds  are  employed,  started  under  glass  and  handled  as  are 
eggplants ;  also  by  cuttings  of  growing  shoots  under  glass. 

Cypripedium  of  florists  :    Paphiopedilum  and  Phragmipedilum. 

Cyrtomium.     PoJypodiacecB. 
Spores ;   see  Ferns,  page  312. 

Cytisus.     LeguminoscB. 

Grown  from  seeds  and  cuttings.  Seeds  are  usually  sown  in 
spring,  under  glass  or  in  the  open.  If  well  grown  and  frequently 
transplanted,  seedlings  should  make  blooming  plants  the  second 
season. 

Cuttings  of  firm  young  wood  may  be  struck  in  early  spring  under 
glass,  making  flowering  plants  the  next  spring.  Layers  are  some- 
times used.  Forms  of  some  of  the  species  may  be  grafted  on  C. 
nigricans  or  on  laburnum  (which  see) ;  greenhouse  kinds  may  be 
worked  on  the  common  C.  canariense. 

Daedalacanthus.     AcanthacecB. 

Propagation  is  by  cuttings  as  for  justicia,  which  see. 

Dahlia.     Compositw. 

Commonly  grown  from  tubers,  which  are  dug  in  the  fall  and 
stored  in  the  cellar,  like  potatoes.  Each  fork  of  the  root  may  be 
broken  apart  and  planted  separately  in  the  field ;  or  the  pieces 
may  be  started  early  in  pots  or  boxes.  It  is  essential  that  each 
piece  have  an  eye  or  bud  at  the  top ;  to  insure  this,  it  is  well  to 
start  the  roots  in  the  house  in  spring  before  dividing  them. 

Single  varieties,  and  sometimes  the  doubles,  are  grown  from 
seeds.  New  varieties,  or  at  least  many  variations,  are  produced 
from  seeds,  particularly  if  cross-pollination  has  intervened.  Good 
blooming  plants,  particularly  of  the  singles,  may  also  be  had  for 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  297 

mass-effect  the  same  season  if  started  early  under  glass.  The  roots 
of  these  seed-grown  plants  may  be  used  for  subsequent  propagation 
the  same  as  from  other  plants. 

Dahlia  tubers  may  be  started  into  growth  in  heat  in  winter  (say 
January),  and  the  young  sprouts  may  be  removed  and  handled 
as  ordinary  cuttings  as  fast  as  they  form  the  third  or  fourth  leaves, 
the  same  as  sweet  potatoes  are  handled.  These  cuttings  should  be 
removed  close  to  the  tuber  or  else  at  the  first  joint  (preferably  the 
former) ;  they  are  set  in  sand  in  a  propagating  bench  with  bottom 
heat ;  when  rooted,  the  plants  are  handled  into  small  pots,  where 
they  will  soon  form  tubers.  These  cutting-plants,  if  6  to  10  inches 
high  when  set  in  the  open,  make  excellent  bloom  that  season,  al- 
though generally  giving  dwarfer  plants  than  those  grown  from 
tubers  planted  directly  in  the  ground.  If  the  shoots  or  cuttings  are 
severed  far  below  a  joint,  no  tubers  will  form  (for  the  subsequent 
propagation  of  the  plant),  although  flowers  may  be  produced.  Rare 
sorts  may  be  increased  in  summer  by  cuttings  from  growing  tips. 

Dahlias  may  be  grafted,  the  tuber  being  used  as  a  stock.  Cions 
made  of  the  growing  tips  may  be  grafted  on  the  root-tubers  by  a 
cleft-  or  side-graft  or  simple  la^dng  together  of  cut  surfaces.  This 
method  is  of te nest  employed  for  the  purpose  of  preserving  over 
winter  rare  or  weak  sorts  which  it  is  feared  may  be  lost.  The 
grafts  are  kept  growing  slowly  during  winter,  and  cuttings  may 
be  taken  from  them.  Sometimes  cions  are  taken  from  forced 
plants  in  late  winter  or  early  spring  and  set  in  strong  tubers  for 
outdoor  planting.  The  joined  part  of  the  grafted  plant  (the 
union)  is  sometimes  covered  with  clay,  but  usually  sufficient  pro- 
tection is  secured  if  the  union  is  partly  buried  in  the  earth  in  which 
the  plant  is  potted. 

Dalbergia.     LeguminoscB. 

Grown  from  seeds,  as  are  other  leguminous  trees ;  also  from 
young-wood  cuttings  in  heat. 

Dandelion  {Taraxacum  officinale).     Compositcp. 

Raised  from  seeds,  in  early  spring,  when  grown  for  "greens  "  or 
blanched  leaves.  The  plants  may  be  harvested  the  same  fall  or 
allowed  to  stand  until  spring. 

Daphne.      ThymeloeacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  after  maturity  or  stratified ;  ger- 
mination is  slow  in  some  species.     For  layers,  remove  the  soil 


298  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

about  the  plant  in  spring  to  a  depth  of  2  or  3  inches  and  fill  with 
fine  compost  to  within  2  inches  of  the  tops  of  the  shoots.  The 
next  spring,  carefully  wash  away  the  compost,  and  plant  the  small 
white  buds  in  pots  of  fine  soil.  Place  in  a  cool  frame.  This  method 
is  specially  adapted  to  D.  Cneorum.  Cuttings  may  be  used.  Soft 
wood  from  forced  plants  may  be  taken  for  this  purpose.  Mature 
wood  may  also  be  employed,  particularly  in  the  evergreen  species ; 
the  cuttings  are  set  under  glass  in  fall  and  carried  over  winter 
in  a  cool  greenhouse,  mild  bottom  heat  being  applied  in  spring. 

The  plants  are  sometimes  propagated  in  winter  by  grafting  on 
seedling  stocks  or  on  roots.  Seedlings  of  D.  Laureola  and  roots  of 
D.  Mezereum  make  good  stocks  for  D.  odora.  The  stock  most  used, 
probably,  is  D.  Mezereum  roots. 

Z).  odora  is  propagated  by  ripened  cuttings  in  a  cool  house,  in 
sand  ;  sometimes  the  old  wood  can  be  used  ;  the  time  is  determined 
by  the  fitness  of  the  wood. 

Darlingtonia.     SarraceriiacecB. 

Handled  by  dividing  the  plants ;  also  grown  from  seeds  sown  in 
pans  on  live  sphagnum  and  kept  cool  and  moist  in  a  propagating- 
box. 

-  Dasylirion.     LiliacecB. 

Usually  grown  from  seeds ;  suckers  and  cuttings  of  branches, 
when  they  arise,  may  also  be  used. 

Date,  Date  Palm  (Phcenix  dactylifera).     PalmaceoB. 

The  seeds  from  commercial  dates  grow  readily  (if  they  have  been 
properly  pollinated)  and  without  stratification.  Brief  stratification, 
of  four  or  six  weeks,  is  sometimes  employed  for  the  purpose  of 
softening  the  seed-coats.  As  a  greenhouse  subject  the  date  is 
usually  grown  from  seed.  Seedlings  are  also  sometimes  employed 
in  commercial  plantations,  although  the  sex  of  the  resulting  plants 
cannot  be  foretold.  Seeds  are  planted  in  the  nursery,  and  the 
plants  transplanted  in  one  to  three  years ;  or  sometimes  the  seeds 
are  planted  in  the  field  where  the  bearing  trees  are  to  stand.  A 
sufficient  number  of  seedlings  should  be  provided  so  that  superfluous 
males  may  be  eliminated. 

Commercial  dates  are  propagated  by  suckers  that  arise  about 
the  base  of  the  old  trunk.  These  are  preferably  handled  in  pots 
if  taken  when  the  ground  is  cold,  but  may  be  set  directly  in  perma- 
nent quarters  in  warm  weather,  as  in  spring.     The  suckers  may  be 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  299 

taken  as  cuttings,  without  roots,  and  headed  back ;  if  phinted  in 
the  field,  water  is  applied  frequently  so  that  rooting  may  be 
continuous,  but  care  must  be  taken  not  to  set  the  crown  so  deep 
as  to  invite  decay.  It  is  preferable,  however,  to  allow  the 
suckers  to  grow  on  the  parent  until  roots  of  their  own  have  formed. 

Datisca.     DatiscaceoB. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  dividing  old  plants. 

Datura,  including  Brugmansia.     Solanacece. 

The  annual  species  are  propagated  by  seeds,  which  are  usually 
started  under  cover  in  the  North.  The  perennials  are  readily 
grown  from  cuttings  in  mild  heat.  Gardeners  like  cuttings  taken 
with  a  heel. 

Davallia.     PolypodiaceoB. 

Propagated  largely  by  division;  also  by  spores.  Should  be 
done  in  spring  months.     See  Ferns,  page  312. 

Decumaria.     SaxifragaceoB. 

Cuttings  of  greenwood  may  be  made  in  summer  in  a  frame  or  in 
greenhouse.     Rarely  propagated  by  seeds. 

Delphinium  (Larkspur).     Ranu7iculacecB. 

Grown  freely  from  seeds.  For  early  bloom  of  the  annual  kinds, 
seeds  are  sometimes  started  indoors.  Seedlings  of  perennials 
should  bloom  the  second  year.  The  perennials  are  readily  in- 
creased by  division.  If  the  flowering  stems  are  cut  away  after 
bloom,  new  growths  will  quickly  form,  and  these  may  be  divided 
in  autumn  or  spring.  The  perennial  larkspurs  may  also  be  multi- 
plied by  cuttings,  rooted  in  a  shaded  frame.  The  cuttings  are 
taken  from  new  growth  in  spring,  when  it  is  a  few  inches  long,  or 
from  the  crown  or  bottom  growth  after  flowering.  Cuttings 
should  give  blooming  plants  the  following  season. 

Dendrobium.     OrchidacecB. 

When  a  rapid  increase  of  a  new  or  special  variety  is  required, 
the  pseudobulbs  more  than  one  year  old  may  be  cut  into  lengths, 
and  fastened  on  orchid  rafts,  with  a  layer  of  sphagnum  beneath 
them.  Suspend  them  in  a  hot  moist  house,  if  possible  over  a 
water-tank.  The  advantage  of  this  method  is  that  the  young 
plants  do  not  need  shifting  after  they  commence  rooting  on  their 


300  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

own  account.  The  section  to  which  D.  aggregatum,  D.  Jenkinsii 
D.  densiflorum  and  D.  thrysiflorum  belong  is  best  propagated  by 
division.     See  Orchids,  page  372. 

Deutzia.     SaxifragaceoB. 

Commercially,  the  species  are  mostly  propagated  by  green 
hardened  cuttings  in  summer,  under  a  frame.  Hardwooded 
cuttings  may  be  taken  in  autumn,  and  be  treated  in  about  the 
same  way  as  currant  cuttings.  The  deutzias  are  also  propagated 
by  divisions  and  layers.  Some  of  the  dwarf  sorts  are  sometimes 
forced,  to  make  cuttings  for  winter  use.  They  may  also  be  grown 
from  seeds  sown  in  pans  or  boxes  in  spring. 

Dewberry  (Rubus  species).     Rosacew. 

Seeds  are  handled  in  the  same  way  as  blackberry  seeds.  In- 
creased by  layers  and,  like  the  blackberry,  root-cuttings  and  cane- 
tips.  Layers  are  made  simply  by  covering  the  decumbent  canes 
at  the  joints,  but  this  method  is  now  little  used.  The  tips  root 
freely,  as  in  the  blackcap  raspberries,  and  it  is  from  these  that  the 
commercial  dewberry  plants  are  mostly  grown.     See  Blackberry. 

Dianthus  (Carnation.     Pink.     Sweet  William).     CaryophyllacecB. 

Annuals  and  perennials,  all  easily  grown  from  seeds.  The 
annual  kinds  are  sometimes  started  indoors ;  but  usually  the  seeds 
are  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  remain.  Best  results  are  to  be 
expected  in  most  species  when  new  plants  of  the  perennial  kinds 
are  grown  from  seeds  every  two  or  three  years,  as  strong  plants  are 
obtained  and  the  beds  are  kept  clear  of  grass.  Plants  bloom  the 
second  year  from  seed.  Old  plants  may  be  divided,  if  vigorous. 
See  Carnation. 

Dicentra,  Dielytra  (Bleeding-Heart).     FumariaceoB. 

The  clumps  may  be  divided  in  early  spring,  or  short  cuttings  may 
be  made  of  the  roots  and  placed  in  sand.  The  native  species 
propagate  readily  by  the  underground  parts  —  D.  Cucidlaria  by 
division  of  the  bulbs,  and  D.  canadensis  by  the  little  tubers. 
All  species  grow  from  seeds  that  have  been  stratified  or  else  sown 
in  autumn. 

Dichorisandra.     CommelinacecB. 

Multiplied  by  seeds,  cuttings  of  green  shoots,  and  division  of  old 
plants. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  301 

Dicksonia.     Cyatheacece. 

Propagated  by  division  mostly,  but  also  by  spores.  See  Ferns, 
page  312. 

Dictamnus  (Dittany,  or  Fraxinella).     Rutaceoe. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  in  fall  as  soon  as  ripe  and  covered  an  inch 
or  so.  Seedlings  should  bloom  in  two  years.  Increased  with 
difficulty  by  division. 

Dictyosperma.     Palmacece. 

Propagation  as  for  areca,  which  see. 

Didymocarpus.     Gesneriaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  when  obtainable.  Cuttings  of  young 
shoots  when  growth  begins,  in  sandy  soil  in  heat,  usually  do  well. 
See  GesneriacecB,  page  318. 

Didymochlaena.     Polyjjodiaceae. 

Increased  by  division.     See  Ferns,  page  312. 

Dieffenbachia.     Araceos. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  stem,  cutting  into  pieces  2  or  3 
inches  long  which  are  dried  for  a  few  days,  then  put  into  boxes  of 
sand.  These  cuttings  should  be  potted  as  soon  as  roots  have 
formed.     See  Araceoe,  page  239. 

Diervilla  (Weigela).     Caprifoliacece. 

Increased  by  suckers  and  cuttings  made  in  spring,  summer  or 
autumn.  Hardened  green  cuttings,  handled  under  a  frame  in 
summer,  are  extensively  used  by  nurserymen.  (See  page  110.) 
They  are  sometimes  grown  from  cuttings  in  winter  from  forced 
plants.  Hardwood  cuttings,  made  in  winter  and  planted  in 
spring,  like  the  grape,  succeed  well.  The  American  native  species 
may  be  growm  from  seeds  sown  in  spring. 

Digitalis  (Foxglove).     ScrophulariacecE. 

Raised  from  seeds,  sown  in  spring,  either  indoors  or  in  the  open. 
The  common  foxglove  (D.  purpurea)  often  self-sows ;  it  is  best 
treated  as  a  biennial ;  seeds  for  next  year's  bloom  may  be  started 
in  spring,  or  in  late  summer  and  handled  in  a  frame  to  prolong  the 
season.     Digitalis  may  also  be  propagated  by  division  of  clumps. 

Dill  (Anethum  graveolens).      UmheUiferoe. 

Raised  from  seed  sown  in  spring  where  the  plants  are  to  stand. 


302  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Dillenia.     DilleniaceoB. 

Increased  by  seeds ;  with  some  difficulty  by  cuttings  oi  half- 
ripened  wood  in  sand  in  bottom  heat. 

Dimorphotheca  (Cape  Marigold).     Compositw. 

The  annuals  are  grown  from  seeds  started  indoors  or  planted  in 
the  open.  These  plants  have  lately  become  popular.  The 
perennials  are  raised  from  seeds,  also  by  soft  cuttings,  and  perhaps 
by  division. 

Dionaea.     DroseracecB. 

Propagated  by  seed  placed  under  a  bell-jar  on  moist  sandy  soil 
mixed  with  finely  chopped  sphagnum  moss ;  also  by  dividing  the 
plants. 

Dioon.     CycadaceGB. 

Increased  by  seed.      See  Cycas. 

Dioscorea  (Yam).     DioscoreacecB. 

The  dormant  tubers  may  be  divided  in  autumn  or  spring ; 
start  in  heat.  Seeds  are  sometimes  used ;  so  are  the  tubers  that 
form  in  the  axils  by  the  leaves.  Hothouse  species  can  be  prop- 
agated by  cuttings  of  the  half-ripened  wood. 

Diosma.     Rutaceoe. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  young  wood,  much  as  for  the  heaths. 

Diospyros  (Persimmon.  Kaki) :    Persimmon. 

Dipladenia.     Apocynaceoe. 

In  spring,  or  as  early  as  February  1,  when  the  plants  begin  growth, 
cuttings  are  made  from  the  young  shoots,  placed  in  bottom  heat. 
The  pots  should  be  placed  in  a  tight  propagating-bed,  in  a  night 
temperature  of  70°.     Propagated  also  by  seed  when  obtainable. 

Diplazium.     Polypodiaceos. 

Propagation  by  spores  and  division.     See  Ferns,  page  312. 

Diplothemium.     Palmacece. 

Increased  by  seeds.     See  Palms,  page  377. 

Dizygotheca.     AraliacecB. 

To  this  name  are  now  referred  some  of  the  tender  plants  formerly 
included  in  Aralia.  Others  are  now  included  in  Polyscias,  which 
see  for  propagation. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  303 

Dodecatheon  (Shooting-Star).     Primulaceae. 

Propagated  slowly  by  seeds.  The  roots  may  be  divided  in 
spring  or  autumn.  Cuttings  of  the  whole  root  can  be  used  effec- 
tively, the  root  being  taken  off  the  crown,  planted  upright,  and 
covered  with  the  sandy  soil. 

Dolichos.     LegwninosoB. 

Increased  readily  by  seeds,  which  should  be  handled  same  as 
beans.  Sometimes  cuttage  or  layerage  is  employed  for  the  more 
woody  kinds.     See  Pueraria  for  D.  Thunbergianus. 

Doodia.     Poly  pod  iacccB. 

Propagation  by  spores  and  division.     See  Ferns,  page  312. 

Doronicum  (Leopard's  Bane).     Composiiae 
Multiplied  by  seeds  and  divisions. 

Dorstenia.     Moracece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  when  procurable ;  division  of  the  plant 
when  repotting. 

Doryanthes.     Amaryllidaceoe. 

Propagated  by  suckers  in  pots ;  they  are  produced  after  flower- 
ing. 

Downingia  (Clintonia  of  seedsmen).     Lobeliacece. 

Annuals  easily  grown  from  seeds  sown  in  the  open  or  started 
under  glass. 

Draba  (Whitlow-Grass).     CrucifercB. 

By  fall-sown  or  spring-sown  seeds  ;  the  perennials  by  division. 

Dracaena.     LiliaceoB. 

Propagation  as  for  cordyline,  which  see,  page  288. 

Dracocephalum  (Dragon's  Head).     LabiatoB. 

The  annuals  are  raised  easily  from  seeds,  sown  in  the  open  in 
spring  or  started  indoors.  Perennials  are  handled  by  division  or 
by  cuttings  of  growing  wood  in  spring. 

Dracontium.     AraceoB. 

Propagation  as  for  amorphophallus.     See  also  Aracece,  page  239. 

Dracunculus.     AraceoB. 

Propagation  as  for  arum,  by  offsets  of  the  tubers  and  sometimes 
by  seeds.     See  AraceoB,  page  239. 


304  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Drosera  (Sundew).     Droseracew. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  soon  after  gathering.  The  root  may 
be  divided ;  or  rhizomes  may  be  made  into  cuttings  an  inch  or 
less  long,  which  root  in  two  or  three  weeks  in  a  propagating-box. 

Drosophyllum.     Droseraceae. 

Grown  from  seed  ;  probably  can  be  propagated  much  as  drosera. 

Duranta.     Verhenacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  in  spring ;   also  by  seeds. 

Dyckia.     BromeliaceoB. 

Propagated  by  suckers  or  offsets.     See  Billbergia,  page  252. 


Ecballium  (Squirting  Cucumber).     Cucurbit aceoB. 

Treated  as  an  annual,  and  grown  readily  from  seeds  sown  indoors 
or  in  the  open  when  the  weather  is  warm ;   tender. 

Eccremocarpus  (Calampelis).     BignoniacecE. 

Propagated  by  seeds  in  spring  in  mild  heat.  Cuttings  may  be 
made  of  green  or  ripe  wood. 

Echeveria.     Crassulacece. 

Propagation  by  cuttings  of  stems  and  leaves  as  for  cotyledon, 
which  see.     Bv  manv  botanists  the  two  genera  are  united. 

Echinacea.     CompositoB. 

Readily  multiplied  by  seeds  and  division. 

Echinocactus.     CactaceoB. 

Propagation  by  seeds,  in  May  or  June.  If  well  ripened,  seeds 
at  this  time  of  year  should  germinate  in  a  week  or  less.  Sow  in 
4-inch  pots  in  finely  sifted  mixture  of  leaf -mold,  loam,  and  charcoal 
dust  and  silver  sand.     See  Cactus,  page  261. 

Echinocereus.     Cactacece. 

As  for  cereus ;   see  also  Cactus,  page  261. 

Echinops  (Globe  Thistle).     CompositcB. 

Seeds  sown  in  spring  are  used  for  the  biennials,  and  early  division 
for  the  perennials  ;  also  increased  by  root-cuttings. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  305 

Echinopsis.     Cadacece. 

Handled  as  are  the  species  of  cereus.     See  Cactus,  page  261. 

Echium.     Boraginacew. 

Grown  from  seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  ;  the  woody  species  from 
cuttings  and  layers. 

Edgeworthia.      ThymelcBaceae. 

Propagation  is  by  seeds ;  also  by  greenwood  cuttings  in  spring 
under  glass. 

Eggplant  {Solanum  Melongena).     Solanaceos. 

Grown  readily  from  seeds,  as  for  tomatoes ;  start  indoors  and 
transplant.  Fruit  should  be  had  in  a  warm  climate  in  120  to  150 
days  from  seed-sowing.     The  plant  can  be  propagated  by  cuttings. 

Eichhomia  {Pontedcria  azurea  and  crassipes  of  gardeners).     Ponte- 
deriaceoB. 
Propagates  naturally  by  division. 

Elaeagnus  (Oleaster.     Wild  Olive.     Gumi).     EloeagnaceoB. 

Propagated  by  means  of  seeds,  root-cuttings  and  layers.  Seeds 
should  be  stratified  and  planted  the  second  spring,  as  they  usually 
do  not  germinate  the  first  year.  Hardwood  cuttings  of  E. 
angustifolia  strike  readily.  The  named  varieties  are  often  grafted 
on  the  most  vigorous  kinds.  Imported  seeds  of  some  species  are 
likely  to  be  empty.  E.  multiflora  (gumi)  can  be  propagated 
readily  by  cuttings  of  the  half-ripened  wood  in  June  and  July,  un- 
der glass. 

Elaphoglossum.     Poly  pod  iacecB. 

Propagation  by  division  and  spores.     See  Ferns,  page  312. 

Elettaria  (Cardamom).     ZhigiheraceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  when  obtainable ;  also  by  division  of  the 
plants. 

Elsholtzia.     Labiatae. 

Propagation  by  seeds  sown  in  spring ;  the  woody  species  also  by 
greenwood  cuttings  in  summer. 

Emilia  (Cacalia  of  florists).     Compositce 

Propagated  easily  by  seed^,  sown  in  heat  in  early  spring,  or  in  the 
open  later. 


306  THE   NURSER\-MANUAL 

Empetrum  (Crowberry,  or  Crakeberry).     EvipetracecB. 

Increased  by  seeds ;  also  by  nearly  ripe-wood  cuttings  in  late 
summer  under  glass. 

Encephalartos.     Cycadaceae. 

Multiplied  by  seeds,  offsets  and  suckers.     See  Cycas. 

Endive  {Cichorium  Endivia).     Compositae. 

Raised  readily  from  seeds,  either  in  the  open  where  the  plants 
are  to  stand,  or  under  glass. 

Enkianthus.     Ericacece. 

Propagation  by  seeds  sov  n  in  spring,  by  cuttings  of  ripe  wood 
under  glass  in  spring,  and  by  greenwood  cuttings  in  summer; 
also  by  layers. 

Eomecon.     PapaveraceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  ;   also  by  division. 

Epacris.     EpacridacecB. 

Grown  from  tip  cuttings  in  a  frame  in  winter,  with  bottom  heat, 
much  as  for  erica. 

Epidendrum.     OrchidacecB. 

The  tall-stemmed  section  of  this  genus  is  increased  by  cuttings,  the 
section  with  short  thick  pseudobulbs  by  division.  The  former  also 
occasionally  produces  viviparous  flower-scapes,  thus  affording  a 
ready  means  of  increase.     See  Orchids,  page  372. 

Epigaea  (Trailing  Arbutus).     Ericacece. 

Cuttings  of  mature  wood  may  be  struck  in  sand  in  winter  under 
glass.  The  best  method,  however,  is  by  seeds.  Watch  for  the 
seeds  to  ripen  for  they  are  very  soon  discharged  and  lost.  Remove 
pulp  by  rubbing  between  the  fingers,  and  sow  at  once  (as  advised 
by  Coville)  in  a  well-drained  shallow  box  in  a  mixture  6f  two  parts 
finely  sifted  kalmia  peat  and  one  part  clean  sand ;  cover  -^^  inch 
deep  with  same  material ;  protect  from^  evaporation  and  direct 
sunlight.  Germination  takes  place  in  three  or  four  weeks  ;  in  three 
or  four  months,  transplant  into  pots  in  mixture  of  peat  and  sand. 
Plants  should  bloom  in  two  or  three  vears  from  seed. 

Epimedium  (Barrenwort).     Berberidaceoe. 

In  summer  or  fall  divisions  of  the  roots  can  be  made  ;  sometimes 
grown  from  seeds. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  307 

Epiphyllum.     Cactacece. 

The  plants  formerly  known  as  Phyllocactus  are  now  called 
Epiphyllums,  the  former  name  being  discontinued.  (What  have 
been  known  as  Epiphyllums  will  now  be  found  under  Zygocactus.) 
Seeds  germinate  readily  in  sandy  soil.  Usually  increased  by 
cuttings  of  the  stems,  5  or  6  inches  long,  placed  in  sandy  soil, 
which  is  kept  only  slightly  moist.     See  also  Cactus,  page  262. 

Episcia.     Gesneriaceoe. 

Cuttings ;    see  Gesneriaceop,  page  318. 

Eragrostis  (Love-Grass).     Gramineoe. 

Raised  freely  from  seeds,  sown  in  the  open,  in  spring. 

Eranthemum,     Acanthaceoe. 

Increased  by  seeds.  Cuttings  root  in  spring  or  early  summer  in 
peaty  soil  in  a  warm  propagating-box.  See  Justicia.  The 
Eranthemums  of  gardeners  are  now  placed  in  Dsedalacanthus  and 
Pseuderanthemum. 

Eranthis  (Winter  x\conite).     Ranunculaceae. 
Propagated  by  division  and  by  seeds. 

Eremunis.     LiliacecB. 

Increased  by  divisions  and  more  slowly  by  seeds. 

Erianthus  (Plume-Grass).     Gramiiieoe. 
Handled  by  seeds  and  division. 

Erica  (Heath).     Ericacece. 

Commonly  propagated  by  very  short  cuttings,  taken  from  the 
tips,  or  made  of  the  lower  young  or  side  growth,  and  made  in 
winter  or  from  December  to  April,  usually  cut  to  a  heel.  Care- 
fully remove  the  leaves  from  the  lower  parts  of  the  cutting,  which 
should  be  about  1  inch  long,  and  then  firmly  insert  rather  closely 
in  pans  or  pots,  which  should  be  filled  two-thirds  with  crocks,  the 
remainder  being  fine  sandy  peat  with  a  layer  of  clean  compact  sand 
on  the  surface ;  cover  with  glass ;  water  well,  and  place  in  a  tem- 
perature of  about  60°.  Plants  are  sometimes  raised  from  seed,  but 
mostly  when  it  is  desired  to  obtain  variations.  They  are  sown  on 
live  sphagnum  or  on  peat,  kept  cool  and  handled  with  care  through- 
out. 


t^ 


308  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Ericaceae.     Heaths. 

This  family  contains  some  very  decorative  garden  plants.  The 
heaths  are  readily  propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  young  wood 
inserted  in  pots  of  peat  and  sand  surfaced  with  sharp  clean  sand 
and  placed  in  a  propagating  case.  Damp  and  too  close  atmosphere 
is  injurious  to  them.  Most  of  the  other  genera  of  Ericaceae  can 
be  increased  either  by  cuttings  or  seeds. 

Erigeron  (Fleabane).     CompositoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  divisions,  and  possibly  by  cuttings. 
Division  is  a  good  method  for  the  tufted  perennial  species. 

Erinus.     ScrophulariacecB. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  divisions.  After  becoming  established, 
they  spread  themselves  by  seeds. 

Eriobotrya  (Loquat).     Rosacece.  — 

Increased  by  stratified  seeds  or  half-ripened  cuttings  under  glass. 
Varieties  of  loquat,  E.  japonica,  are  grown  from  layers  or  cuttings 
of  ripe  wood ;  it  is  also  worked  on  seedling  stocks  or  on  thorn  or 
quince,  after  the  manner  of  pears,  as  seedlings  are  too  variable 
for  satisfactory  results  in  fruit.  The  usual  method  in  this  country 
is  to  bud  the  varieties  on  loquat  seedlings.     See  Loquat. 

Erodium  (Heron's-Bill).     Geraniacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  division,  usually  the  former. 

Eryngium  (Eryngo).      UmbeUiferoB. 

Raised  from  seed  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  germination  taking  place 
the  following  spring ;  sometimes  handled  by  division. 

Erysimum.     CruciferoB. 

The  annuals  are  grown  from  seeds  sown  in  the  garden  or  started 
indoors ;  the  perennials  by  seeds,  division  and  sometimes  by 
cuttings. 

Erythea.     Palmaceoe. 

Grown  from  seeds.     See  Palms,  page  377. 

Erythrina  (Coral-Tree).     Leguminosae. 

Propagated  by  seeds.  Cuttings  of  young  shoots  may  be  struck 
in  spring  or  early  summer  in  sandy  soil  in  heat.  Herbaceous 
species  are  increased  by  division  of  the  rootstocks.  The  wood^ 
kinds  grow  from  cuttings  of  growing  wood. 


THE    NJjRSERY-LIST  309 

Erythronium  (Dog's-tooth  Violet.     Adder's-Tonguo) .     lAliaceGB. 

Offsets  or  bulbels  are  usually  employed  for  the  P>uropean  and 
East-American  species,  taken  as  soon  as  the  leaves  die  after 
flowering.  Most  of  the  West-American  species  are  grown  from 
seeds. 

Erythroxylon.     Erythroxylacece. 

Cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  in  sand  under  a  glass,  in  heat, 
are  recommended.     Seeds,  if  obtainable,  may  be  employed. 

Escallonia.     Saxifragacece. 

Seeds,  when  obtainable,  may  be  used.  Cuttings  of  firm  wood 
strike  under  glass.  Layers  and  suckers  are  sometimes  employed 
for  propagation. 

Eschscholtzia  (California  Poppy).     PapaveracecB. 

Propagated  readily  by  seeds  where  plants  are  to  stand,  which 
should  give  blooming  stock  the  same  season.  In  gardens  treated 
as  a  hardy  annual,  although  plants  will  bloom  the  second  year; 
often  self -sows. 

Eucalyptus  (Gum-Tree).     Myrtacece. 

Planted  extensively  in  California.  Grown  from  seeds  gathered 
as  soon  as  the  pods  open.  It  is  best  to  sow  in  a  light  loam  in 
flats ;  young  plants  usually  need  shade.  The  seed  is  sown  in 
spring,  and  seedlings  should  be  large  enough  for  transplanting 
to  the  field  the  following  spring.  As  greenhouse  subjects,  eucalypti 
may  be  grown  from  cuttings. 

Eucharidium.     Onagraceoe. 

Increased  easily  by  seeds,  sown  usually  in  the  open  border  in 
spring  or  autumn. 

Eucharis  (Amazon  Lily).     AmaryllidaceoB. 

Usually  increased  by  offsets  from  the  large  bulbs,  preferably  in 
spring.     Sometimes  grown  from  seeds,  when  obtainable,  under  glass. 

Euchlaena  (Teosinte).     Gramineae. 

Propagated  directly  by  seed,  as  for  maize. 

Eucomis.     LiliacecB. 

Increased  by  offsets,  sometimes  by  seeds  under  glass.- 


310  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Eugenia.     MyrtacecB. 

Grown  from  seeds  when  procurable ;  also  increased  by  cuttings 
of  firm  shoots  in  sand  in  heat. 

Eulalia.     Miscanthus. 

By  seeds ;   also  division  of  clumps. 

Euonymus  :  Evonymus,  below. 

Eupatorium.     Compos  itoB. 

The  greenhouse  kinds  are  grown  from  cuttings  of  the  growing 
wood  under  glass  in  winter  or  early  spring.  Seeds  may  also  be  used 
and  the  hardy  herbaceous  kinds  are  increased  by  division. 

Euphorbia  (Spurge).     EuphorbiaceoB. 

A  polymorphous  genus,  one  of  which  is  poinsettia  (which  see). 
The  annuals  grow  readily  from  seed.  Some  of  the  perennial 
kinds  may  be  divided.  The  fleshy  kinds  (simulating  cacti)  are 
handled  from  cuttings  of  stems.  These  cuttings  are  usually  taken 
in  summer  and  allowed  to  dry  somewhat  before  planting ;  they 
may  be  struck  in  sand  and  charcoal  or  even  in  coal-ashes.  Some  of 
the  succulent  species  may  be  grafted  after  the  way  of  cacti. 

Euphorbiaceae.     Euphorbiads. 

The  annual  kinds  are  increased  by  seeds ;  herbaceous  sorts  by 
seeds  and  division ;  succulent  or  fleshy  kinds  by  cuttings  in  sand 
and  kept  in  a  warm  dry  house.  With  the  semi-fleshy  species,  as 
poinsettias,  as  soon  as  the  cuttings  are  taken  off  the  old  plants,  im- 
merse them  at  once  in  water  and  then  put  in  wet  sand. 

Euterpe.     PalmaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  in  heat.     See  Palms,  page  377. 

Evodia.     Rutaceoe. 

Propagation  by  seeds ;  for  warmhouse  species  by  cuttings  of 
half-ripened  wood  and  also  probably  by  root-cuttings. 

Evonymus.     Celastraceoe. 

Grown  from  seeds  stratified  and  sown  in  spring,  from  cuttings 
and  layers.  Cuttings  usually  make  better  plants  than  layers. 
The  deciduous  species  are  usually  grown  from  hardwood  cuttings, 
but  the  evergreen  kinds  are  started  under  glass,  from  cuttings  of  the 
growing  or  ripened  wood.  The  small  and  weak  kinds  are  grafted 
on  the  stronger  ones.  The  evergreen  species  will  grow  on  the 
deciduous  kinds. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  311 

Exacum.     GentianaceoB. 

Grown  from  seed  ;  for  specimens  in  5-inch  pots,  sow  in  March  of 
same  year;  for  larger  specimens,  sow  in  August  of  the  preceding 
vear. 

Exochorda.     Rosaccae. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  layers,  cuttings  and  suckers.  Layering 
in  June  is  a  common  practice.  Various  kinds  of  cuttings  are 
employed,  but  the  best  results  follow  short  soft  cuttings,  taken 
froni  forced  plants  and  set  deep  in  shallow  flats  of  sand.  They 
require  a  very  strong  bottom  heat,  a  close  frame,  and  the  water 
should  be  applied  in  a  spray  on  the  foliage.  Cuttings  are  sometimes 
grafted  on  pieces  of  roots.  It  has  been  regarded  as  a  difficult  plant 
to  propagate,  but  seeds  are  now  easily  procured  from  cultivated 
plants,  and  they  grow  readily. 


Fagus  (Beech).     FagacecB. 

Commonly  grown  from  the  seeds  or  nuts,  which  should  be 
stratified  and  sown  very  early  in  spring.  They  may  be  sown  in 
autumn  immediately  after  they  are  gathered,  if  they  can  be  pro- 
tected from  vermin.  Seedlings  should  be  transplanted  every  year 
or  two  to  prevent  the  formation  of  tap-roots.  The  named  varieties 
are  grafted  on  seedlings  of  the  European  or  American  species  in 
spring,  preferably  under  glass.  The  purple-leaved  beech  repro- 
duces itself  very  closely  by  seeds,  although  different  shades  of 
purple  will  appear  in  the  seedlings. 

Fatsia.     Araliacece. 

Fatsia  (or  Aralia)  japo7iica  is  increased  by  seeds  and  cuttings. 
Root-cuttings,  about  3  inches  long,  also  may  be  used  in  spring, 
started  in  sand  or  moss. 

Feijoa.     MyrtaceoB. 

Usually  propagated  by  seeds  ;  sow  in  pans  or  flats,  covering  to  a 
depth  of  J  inch,  a  mixture  of  silver  sand  and  well-rotted  redwood 
sawdust  being  a  good  medium.  Cuttings  of  young  wood  from  the 
ends  of  the  branches  can  be  successfully  rooted  under  glass  over 
bottom  heat.  Choice  forms  may  be  perpetuated  by  layers,  by 
whip-  or  veneer-grafting  under  glass. 


312  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Felicia  (Agathsea).     Compositae. 

By  seeds  and  by  cuttings,  as  for  cineraria  and  chrysanthemum. 

Fennel  (Faeniculum).      Umbelliferoe. 

Raised  from  seeds,  usually  in  spring.  See  Ferula^  for  giant 
fennel. 

Fenugreek  {Trigonella  Fcenum-Gr cecum).     Leguminosae. 

Annual,  grown  from  seeds  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand ; 
in  drills  18  inches  apart,  7  to  10  pounds  of  seeds  is  required  for  an 
acre ;  broadcast,  10  to  20  pounds. 

Ferns.     Filices;  now  divided  into  several  families. 

When  division  is  possible,  it  is  the  easiest  and  most  economical 
method  of  propagation,  and  should  be  practiced  just  before  the 
plant  starts  into  growth. 

Most  ferns  are  readily  propagated  by  means  of  spores,  as  directed 
below  and  on  page  11.  Some  species  rarely  produce  spores  in 
cultivation,  however,  and  in  other  cases,  as  in  some  tree  ferns,  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  rear  the  young  plants  after  the  spores  have 
germinated.  In  all  such  cases,  recourse  must  be  had  to  separation, 
division  or  layerage.  Some  species,  as  Asplenium  bulbiferum, 
Cystopteris  bulbifera  and  others,  bear  small  bulblets  or  detach- 
able buds  on  their  fronds.  These  buds  often  vegetate  while  still 
attached  to  the  frond.  They  may  be  removed  either  before  or 
after  showing  signs  of  vegetation,  and  set  in  pots  in  a  close  prop- 
aga ting-frame.  Some  species  produce  creeping  rootstocks,  which 
emit  roots  if  pegged  down  into  a  pot  of  soil  or  on  a  block  of  peat. 
Several  plants  may  be  produced  from  such  a  layer.  All  these 
operations  are  best  performed  in  late  winter,  before  the  new  growth 
begins.  The  tree  ferns  are  rarely  propagated  to  any  extent  in 
cultivation,  but  young  plants  are  imported  from  their  native  coun- 
tries. 

Spores  may  be  sown  in  February  and  March,  or  earlier,  under 
glass,  in  a  warm  propagating  pit.  Partly  fill  a  suitable  sized  pot 
or  pan  with  coarse  peat,  giving  plenty  of  drainage ;  make  the 
surface  level,  and  on  this  place  f-inch  cubes  of  well-seasoned  peat 
which  is  rather  dry,  watering  the  whole  and  scattering  on  the 
spores  evenly.  Cover  with  a  pane  of  glass,  and  place  in  a  partial 
shade.  While  the  process  which  corresponds  to  germination  is 
going  on,  great  care  must  be  given  to  the  water  supply.  This  is 
sometimes  done  by  placing  the  pots  or  pans  in  a  saucer,  from  which 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  313 

they  can  suck  up  the  water.  Overhead  watering  may  be  used, 
and  often  is,  but  it  must  be  done  with  great  care.  Be  certain  that 
the  spores  are  fully  ripe  when  gathered.  The  young  plants  should 
be  pricked  out  when  the  true  leaf  appears,  and  they  are  large  enough 
to  handle.  The  same  careful  treatment  should  be  continued  until 
they  are  established  in  pots.  There  is  little  difficulty  in  getting 
the  young  plants,  if  fresh  spores  are  obtainable,  but  there  is  con- 
siderable trouble  in  handling  the  plantlets,  and  establishing  them 
in  their  growing  quarters. 

Ferula  (Giant  Fennel).      TJmheUiferoe. 

Raised  from  seed  sown  in  spring  where  plants  are  to  grow. 

Ficus.     MoracecB. 

The  greenhouse  species  are  propagated  by  layers  and  cuttings. 
The  cuttings  are  handled  in  a  close  frame,  and  a  leaf  or  two  is 
usually  left  on  them.  For  Ficus  Carica,  see  Fig.  Propagation 
by  seeds  is  sometimes  employed  in  the  edible  figs,  but  is  not  easy 
with  the  ornamental  sorts.  F.  elastica,  F.  indica,  and  the  like 
are  increased  by  cuttings  (commonly  single-eye),  leaving  one 
entire  leaf  and  potted  singly  in  2-inch  pots  which  are  plunged; 
or  the  cuttings  are  directly  planted  in  sand  or  sandy  soil  or  sphag- 
num, and  placed  in  good  bottom  heat,  in  a  frame  under  glass. 
The  large  cuttings  should  be  staked,  and  care  should  be  taken  to 
let  the  milky  juice  drain  out  before  planting.  Cuttings  are  usu- 
ally set  in  winter,  before  growth  begins.  Last  season's  wood 
should  be  used.  A  common  method  of  multiplying  F.  elasiica 
(rubber-plant)  is  by  means  of  Chinese  or  air  layers  or  "  mossing  " 
(see  page  76).  If  the  house  can  be  kept  moist,  simply  a  ball  of 
sphagnum  bound  on  the  stem  is  sufficient,  without  the  use  of  a 
split  pot  or  a  paper  cone  (as  shown  in  Figs.  68  and  69).  Plants 
of  consideraVjle  size,  fit  for  nursery  trade,  can  be  obtained  more 
quickly  by  this  Chinese  layering  (if  one  has  good  stock  plants) 
than  by  cuttings. 

Fig  {Ficus  Carica).     Moracece. 

Figs  grow  readily  from  the  plump  seeds  in  the  commercial  fruit. 
Wash  out  the  seeds,  and  those  that  sink  may  be  sown  in  a  frame. 
The  young  plants  will  appear  in  three  or  four  weeks.  In  three  to 
five  years  the  plants  will  begin  to  bear.  New  varieties  are  obtained 
in  this  way. 

Varieties  of  the  fig  are  multiplied  with  ease  by  layers,  suckers  and 


314  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

cuttings.  Make  cuttings  of  mature  wood  in  autumn,  cutting  Just 
below  a  bud.  Scarce  varieties  may  be  multiplied  by  single-eye  cut- 
tings. Fig  cuttings  are  handled  in  the  same  way  as  grape  cuttings. 
Some  prefer,  however,  to  place  the  cuttings  where  the  tree  is  to 
stand.  A  well-grown  plant  will  bear  at  two  or  three  years  of  age. 
Fig.  112. 

The  fig  is  readily  budded  and  grafted,  but  these  methods  are 
seldom  used,  because  the  plant  is  so  easily  multiplied  by  cuttings. 
Shield,  ring  or  tubular  buddings  are  employed.  Various  methods 
of  grafting  are  adapted  to  it,  and  cleft-grafting  is  usually  employed 
on  old  plants. 

In  California,  the  best  fig  cuttings  are  made  from  short-jointed 
well-ripened  wood  about  9  inches  long,  with  the  terminal  bud  un- 
disturbed. These  should  be  planted  in  sandy  loam,  with  top  of 
cutting  just  above  the  surface,  and  kept  well  irrigated  until  suffi- 
cient growth  is  made,  usually  3  or  4  feet  the  first  year.  They  grow 
to  best  advantage  in  the  warmer  interior  valleys. 

Filipendula  (Meadow-Sweet).     RosaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  fall  in  pans  or  boxes  and  kept  in  a 
cool  greenhouse,  or  in  spring  in  a  frame ;  also  by  division  of  older 
plants. 

Fittonia.     AcanthacecB. 

The  fittonias  grow  readily  from  cuttings  of  any  part  of  the  stem ; 
cuttings  from  the  tips  of  shoots,  cut  to  one  joint,  are  usually 
employed.  Propagate  every  year  to  get  compact  plants.  Also 
increased  by  division. 

Foeniculum:   Fennel. 

Fontanesia.     Oleaceoe. 

Layers  and  seed  are  used  for  propagation ;  also  by  greenwood 
cuttings  in  early  summer  under  glass ;  or  it  may  be  grafted  on 
the  privet,  although  this  is  little  necessary  as  cuttings  root  so 
readily. 

Forsythia  (Golden-Bell).     Oleaceoe. 

Grown  extensively  from  green  cuttings  in  summer,  in  a  frame ; 
also  grown  from  ripe  cuttings  taken  in  fall  and  winter,  and  planted 
in  the  open  air  in  early  spring.  Also  raised  from  seeds.  The 
shoots  of  the  drooping  kinds  take  root  freely  at  the  tips. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  315 

Fortunella :    Kumquat. 

fothergilla.      HamamelidacexB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  in  spring ;  by  layers  which  should 
have  two  years  to  root;  F.  Gardenii  also  by  suckers  and  root- 
cuttings. 

Fragaria :  Strawberry. 

Francoa.     Saxifragaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  in  early  spring  in  a  coolhouse  or 
frame  ;   also  by  division. 

Fraxinus  (Ash).     Oleacece. 

Propagated  chiefly  by  seeds,  which  should  be  stratified  until  fall 
or  the  spring  following  the  gathering.  The  seeds  are  not  expected 
to  germinate  the  year  in  which  they  mature,  and  sometimes  remain 
dormant  till  the  second  year.  The  named  sorts  are  worked  on 
seedling  stocks  if  the  sorts  are  upright  growers,  or  top-grafted  if 
they  are  weepers.  They  may  be  grafted  in  early  spring  or  bud- 
ded in  summer.  Both  the  European  and  American  species  are 
used  for  stocks. 

Freesia.     Iridaceae. 

Offsets  provide  the  usual  means  of  propagation,  and  the  strongest 
ones  should  give  bloom  the  following  year.  Freesias  grow  readily 
from  seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe ;  some  of  the  recent  kinds  will 
give  bloom  in  six  or  seven  months  from  seed,  but  usually  one  to 
three  years  are  required. 

Fremontia.     SterculiacecB. 

By  seeds,  or  by  greenwood  cuttings  under  glass  in  summer. 

Fritillaria.     Liliaceoe. 

Propagated  by  offsets  and  natural  division  of  bulbs.  Plants 
should  be  lifted  and  divided  now  and  then.  Also  increased  by 
seeds,  as  soon  as  ripe  where  the  plants  are  to  stand  the  first  year. 

Fuchsia  (Ladies'  Ear-Drop).     Onagracece. 

Fuchsias  grow  readily  from  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  as  soon 
as  ripe,  and  blooming  plants  ought  to  be  obtained  in  eight  or  ten 
months.  Varieties  do  not  always  come  true  from  seeds.  Cuttings 
of  the  young  growth  strike  quickly  and  easily.  Blooming  plants  of 
most  sorts  can  be  obtained  in  four  or  five   months.     The  best 


316  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

cuttings  are  secured  from  suckers  that  start  fiom  the  base  of 
plants  that  are  bedded  out.  The  cutting  should  be  3  inches  long 
and  for  large  specimens  potted  singly  in  2-inch  pots,  in  three  parts 
sand,  one  part  loam  and  one  leaf -mold ;  place  in  shady  position  in 
night  temperature  of  60°.  Plants  for  winter  bloom  are  usually 
started  in  late  spring.  For  the  common  window-garden  and  con- 
servatory kinds,  propagation  should  be  effected  every  year. 

Funkia :    Hosta. 

Furcraea.     AmaryUidacece. 

Propagated  by  bulbels,  which  are  freely  produced.  Several 
years  are  usually  required  to  produce  blooming  plants,  and  some- 
times long  periods  are  necessary. 


Gaillardia.     Compositce. 

The  annual  sorts  are  propagated  by  seeds  started  under  glass  or 
sown  in  the  open  where  the  plants  are  to  stand  ;  the  perennial  kinds 
by  seeds,  cuttings  in  August  or  September  or  division.  Sometimes 
root-cuttings  are  used  in  early  spring.  Vegetative  propagation 
is  employed  for  the  perpetuation  of  particular  variations. 

Galanthus  (Snowdrop).     AmaryllidaceoB. 

Increased  commonly  by  offsets,  the  strongest  of  which  may  bloom 
the  following  year ;  rarely  by  seeds. 

Galax.     Diapensiacece. 

Propagated  by  division  of  the  clumps. 

Galtonia  {Hyacinthus  candicmhs  of  gardeners).     Liliacew. 
Handled  by  offsets  or  seeds,  as  for  hyacinths. 

Gamolepis.     Compositce. 
Grown  from  seeds. 

Garcinia  (Mangosteen).     Guttiferce. 

Increased  by  seeds ;  cuttings  of  ripened  shoots  under  a  glass,  in 
bottom  heat.     See  Mangosteen. 

Gardenia.     Rubiaceoe. 

Grown  from  strong  healthy  cuttings  of  three  or  four  buds,  early 
*in  winter  being  the  best  time.     They  should  be  placed  in  bottom 


THE    NURSERY-LIST  317 

heat  of   about  75*^  to  80°  in   a   frame,   keeping   rather  close  till 
rooted ;  shade  the  cutting-bed ;   syringe  frequently. 

Garlic  (Allium  sativum).     Liliaceoe. 

Increased  by  *'  cloves  "  or  divisions  of  the  bulb.  In  the  North 
these  are  planted  in  the  spring,  but  in  warm  climates  they  may  be 
planted  in  autumn. 

Garrya,  including  Fadyenia.     Garryacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood  in  summer 
and  shaded  until  rooted,  or  by  layers  ;  also  by  budding  on  /Uicuha 
japonica  at  the  crown.  Plant  sufficiently  deep  to  cover  the  bud  or 
graft. 

Gasteria.     Liliaceos. 

Propagation  as  for  aloe,  which  see. 

Gaultheria  (Boxberry.     Wintergreen) .     Ericacece. 

Grown  by  seeds,  divisions,  suckers,  layers  and  cuttings  of  half- 
ripened  wood  under  glass. 

Gaylussacia  (Huckleberry).     Ericaceae. 
For  propagation,  see  Vaccinium. 

Gazania.     Compositoe. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  division.  Cuttings  are  also  taken 
in  summer  from  shoots  near  the  crown  of  the  plant ;  these  should 
be  placed  in  a  sandy  soil  in  a  frame. 

Gelsemium.     Loganiacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  under  glass,  and  by  seeds  when  obtain- 
able. 

Genista.     LeguminosoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  spring ;  also  by  layers  and  green- 
wood cuttings  under  glass.     For  the  genista  of  florists,  see  Cytisiw. 

Gentiana  (Gentian).     Gentianaceae. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  division.  The  seeds  are  small  and 
germinate  slowly,  and  often  with  difficulty.  They  often  lie  dor- 
mant a  year  or  more.  They  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  gathered 
in  well-sifted  light  loam,  in  pans  or  flats,  and  kept  cool  and  shaded. 
Division  mur  t  be  carefully  performed,  or  the  plants  will  suffer. 

Geonoma.     Palmaceoe. 

Multiplied  by  seeds  and  suckers.     See  Palms,  page  377. 


318  THE    NURSERY-MANUAL 

Geranium.     GeraniacecB. 

Mostly  increased  by  seeds  and  divisions.  The  true  geraniums 
are  mostly  outdoor  perennials  ;  for  the  conservatory  plants  known 
as  geraniums,  see  Pelargonium. 

Gerardia.     ScrophulariacecB. 

Propagated,  but  often  with  difficulty,  by  seeds,  sown  in  the 
open  air  or  in  a  frame  or  coolhouse.  Many  of  the  species  are 
partially  parasitic  on  roots. 

Gerbera.     Compositoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  and  by  cuttings  of  side  shoots.  Seeds  give 
good  results,  as  a  perennial. 

Gesneria.     Gesneriaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  cuttings  of  the  shoots  and  leaves,  and  by 
offsets  of  the  tubers.  Handled  in  essentially  the  same  way  as 
sinningia,  which  see.     See  Gesneriaceoe. 

Gesneriaceae.     Gesneriads. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  cuttings  of  the  young  shoots  when 
about  2  or  3  inches  long  placed  in  a  close  moist  propagating-frame, 
using  clean  sharp  sand  or  sand  and  peat  mixed,  in  a  temperature 
of  70°  to  75°.  Or  by  leaf-cuttings,  using  mature  leaves.  Prop- 
agation by  seeds  is  the  most  common  method  for  most  of  the 
genera.  They  should  be  sown  in  January  or  February  in  small 
pans  of  finely  sifted  soil,  composed  of  leaf-mold,  loam  and  sand  in 
about  equal  parts.  Seeds  should  be  sown  very  thinly,  covered 
very  lightly,  carefully  watered,  placed  in  a  temperature  of  65°  to 
70°  and  kept  shaded.  The  seedlings  damp  readily  and  should  be 
pricked  into  small  pans  of  fresh  soil  as  soon  as  they  are  large  enough 
to  handle. 

Geum.     RosaceoB. 

Propagated  by  division  and  by  seed. 

Gherkin  (Cucumis  Anguria).     Cucurhitaceae. 
Easily  grown  from  seeds,  as  for  cucumber. 

Gilia,  including  Fenzlia.     PolemoniaceoB. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  spring  in  the  open  ground  or  frame, 
usually  in  the  open. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  319 

Gillenia.     RosaceoB. 

Propagated  readily  by  dividing  the  roots ;   also  by  seeds. 

Ginkgo,  Salisburia  (Maidenhair  Tree).     Ginkgoaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  are  mostly  imported,  and  which 
should  be  stratified.  Seeds  are  now  produced  in  some  quantity  in 
this  country.  Also  increased  by  layers,  and  by  cuttings  of  either 
green  or  ripe  wood.  The  cuttings  are  handled  under  glass.  Named 
varieties  are  grafted  on  common  stocks. 

Ginseng  (Panax  or  Aralia  quinquefolium).     Araliacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  germinate  the  second  spring.  As 
soon  as  ripe,  in  autumn,  the  seed  should  be  gathered  and  kept 
moist  for  twelve  months,  being  planted  regularly  in  beds  a  year 
from  the  time  of  gathering.  The  seed  may  be  kept  moist  and  fit 
by  planting  it  as  soon  as  ripe,  but  this  exposes  it  to  mice  and  other 
risks  ;  a  safer  way  is  to  mix  the  seeds  in  several  times  their  bulk  of 
sand  (stratify)  and  keep  them  in  a  box,  covered  with  wire  netting, 
until  planted.  The  seed  may  be  sifted  from  the  sand.  The  seed 
is  sown  either  in  drills  or  broadcast  in  well-prepared  narrow  beds 
(to  admit  of  cultivation  from  either  side),  the  seeds  being  an  inch 
or  two  apart.  Seedlings  should  be  transplanted  the  first  or  second 
season.     Commercial  mature  roots  may  be  expected  in  five  years. 

Gladiolus.     Iridaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  are  commonly  sown  in  pans  in  spring, 
in  the  house  ;  or  they  may  be  sown  in  the  border.  Seedlings  flower 
in  two  or  three  years,  but  four  years  is  often  required  to  produce 
good  merchantable  bottoms.  They  give  new  varieties.  The 
common  method  of  propagation  is  by  means  of  cormels  or  offsets. 
These  are  removed  from  the  parent  corm  and  planted  in  the  open, 
where  some  of  them  will  flower  the  same  season,  although  most  of 
them  will  require  a  season's  independent  growth  before  they  bloom. 
If  cormels  are  desired  in  abundance,  the  large  corms  should  not 
be  allowed  to  flower.  Some  varieties  do  not  produce  cormels 
readily,  and  these  may  be  made  to  bear  them  by  cutting  or  ringing. 

Aside  from  cormels,  one  or  two  new  corms  are  formed  above  the 
old  one  each  year.     Fig.  49. 

Glaucium  (Horned  Poppy).     Papaveracece. 

The  annual  and  biennial  kinds  are  grown  from  seeds  sown 
where  the  plants  are  to  stand ;    perennials  by  division. 


320  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Gleditsia  (Honey  Locust).     Leguminosce. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  in  spring  about  1  inch  deep.  They  should 
be  soaked  in  hot  water  before  being  sown.  Varieties  are  prop- 
agated by  grafts  on  seedling  stock  in  spring,  G.  triacanthos  being 
mostly  used  as  stock.     Sometimes  spelled  Gleditschia. 

Gleichenia.     GleicheniacecB. 

Increased  by  division  of  the  plant.     See  Ferns,  page  312. 

Globularia.     GlobulariacecB. 
Propagated  by  division  and  by  seed. 

Gloriosa.     LiliaceoB. 

Offsets  are  commonly  employed  for  propagation  when  they  are 
produced  (about  the  old  bulb) ;  seeds  are  readily  used,  started  in 
bottom  heat.  The  bulb-like  tubers  may  be  cut  in  two  for  purposes 
of  propagation. 

Gloxinia  (Sinningia  speciosa).     Gesneriaceoe. 

Gloxinia  seeds  should  be  sown  the  latter  part  of  winter,  in  well- 
drained  pots  or  small  pans  of  finely  sifted  soil,  of  peat,  leaf-mold 
and  sand  in  about  equal  proportions.  The  seeds  should  be  covered 
slightly,  then  carefully  watered,  and  placed  in  a  temperature  of 
about  70°.  If  seeds  are  sown  in  spring,  blooming  tubers  should 
be  had  the  following  winter. 

Cuttings  of  the  shoots  may  be  taken  after  the  old  tubers  start 
in  spring,  and  placed  in  a  propagating-frame.  Leaf-cuttings, 
with  a  small  portion  of  the  petiole  attached,  give  excellent  re- 
sults, especially  when  the  leaves  are  firm  and  nearly  matured. 
Leaf-cuttings  are  made  after  the  manner  of  Fig.  110;  a  little 
tuber  forms  on  the  end  of  the  leaf-stalk,  and  this  is  removed 
and  handled  like  any  small  tuber ;  or  the  last  leaf  may  be  laid 
flat,  as  for  begonia,  and  the  ribs  cut  at  intervals.  Also  grafted 
on  tubers,  much  as  for  dahlia  and  peony.     See  Gesneriacew. 

Glycosmis.     Rutacece. 

Cuttings  may  be  used,  started  under  glass ;  setds,  when  obtain- 
able. 

Glycyrrhiza  (Liquorice).     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  division  and  by  seeds ;  roots  left  in  the  ground 
after  harvesting  may  produce  a  succeeding  crop. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  321 

Godetia.     OnagracecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which,  in  California,  may  be  surface-sown 
in  late  fall,  or  in  February  lightly  covered  in  sunny  or  half-shady 
places.     In  common  garden  culture,  seeds  are  sown  in  spring. 

Gomphrena  (Globe  Amaranth).     Amaranthaceae. 

The  common  kind  {G.  globosa)  is  annual  and  grown  readily 
from  seeds  sown  in  the  open.  Perennial  kinds  are  propagated 
also  by  cuttings  and  division. 

Gongora.     OrchidaceoB. 

Increased  by  divisions.     See  Orchids,  page  372. 

Gooseberry  (Ribcs  Grossularia  and  R.  hirtellum).     SaxifragacecB. 

Seeds,  for  the  raising  of  new  varieties,  should  be  sown  as  soon  as 
well  cured,  in  loamy  or  sandy  soil,  or  they  may  be  stratified  and 
sown  together  with  the  sand  in  the  spring.  They  are  handled  the 
same  as  for  currants. 

Cuttings  6  to  8  inches  long  of  the  mature  wood,  inserted  two- 
thirds  their  length,  will  grow  in  fair  proportion,  especially  if  taken 
in  August  or  September  and  stored  during  winter,  in  the  same  way 
as  currant  cuttings ;  but  the  gooseberry  does  not  start  so  readily 
from  cuttings  as  does  the  currant.  Single-eye  cuttings  may  be 
used  for  rare  kinds.  Stronger  plants  are  usually  obtained  by 
layers,  and  the  English  varieties  are  nearly  always  layered  in  this 
country  (although  frequently  grown  from  cuttings  in  England). 
Mound-layering  is  usually  employed  (the  mounding  being  done  in 
June,  or  when  the  new  growth  has  reached  several  inches),  the 
English  varieties  being  allowed  to  remain  on  the  stools  two  years, 
but  the  American  varieties  only  one.  Much  depends  on  the  variety. 
The  Downing,  for  example,  usually  makes  a  merchantable  plant  in 
one  year  after  transplanting  from  the  stools,  but  Smith  Improved 
may  require  a  year  more.  Layered  plants  are  usually  set  in  nur- 
sery rows  for  a  year  after  removal  from  the  stools.  (Fig.  ()4.) 
Green-layering  during  summer  is  sometimes  practiced  for  new  or 
rare  varieties.  Strong  plants  may  also  be  procured  by  tip-layering, 
as  in  the  black  raspberry. 

If  it  is  desired  to  train  the  weaker  gooseberries  in  tree  form,  the>- 
may  be  grafted  on  the  stronger-growing  varieties. 

Gordonia.      TheacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  layers,  or  cuttings  from  half-ripened  wood 
under  glass. 


322  THE   NURSERY-MANUaij 

Gourds  (Cucurbita  Pepo,  Lagenaria,  and  others).     Cucurbitacect 
Increased  by  seeds,  after  the  weather  is  settled  and  ground  is 
warm,  usually  planted  directly  where  the  plants  are  to  grow. 

Grammatophyllum.     Orchidaceoe. 

Propagated  from  pieces  of  the  pseudobulbs.   See  Orchids,  page  372. 

Grape  (Vitis,  several  species ;  V.  vinifera  is  the  wine  grape  and 
the  source  of  the  European  varieties ;  V.  Labrusca  is  the 
dominant  source  of  the  American  varieties).      VitacecB. 

Grape  seedlings  are  easily  grown.  If  the  ground  is  fit  and  there 
is  no  danger  from  vermin,  the  seeds  may  be  sown  in  autumn,  but 
they  are  usually  stratified  and  sown  in  spring.  They  come  readily 
if  sown  outdoors,  but  some  prefer  to  force  them  under  glass  with  a 
mild  bottom  heat.  Seedlings  do  not  ''  come  true,"  and  they  are 
therefore  grown  only  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  new  sorts. 

The  grape  is  readily  multiplied  by  layers,  either  of  the  ripe  or 
green  wood.  The  ripe  wood  or  canes  may  be  layered  either  in  fall 
or  spring,  but  spring  is  usually  preferred.  The  cane  is  covered 
2  or  3  inches  deep,  and  nearly  every  bud  will  produce  a  plant.  In 
August  or  September  the  layer  should  be  lifted  and  cut  into  plants. 
Better  plants  are  obtained  if  only  the  strongest  canes  are  used  and 
only  a  part  of  the  buds  on  each  allowed  to  grow.  The  cane  is 
usually  cut  back  to  four  or  five  buds,  or  if  very  strong  plants  are 
desired  only  one  bud  is  left  on  each  layer.  Canes  of  the  previous 
year,  those  recently  matured,  are  preferred,  although  wood  two  or 
three  years  old  ma^^  be  used,  but  in  this  case  it  is  usually  necessary 
to  cut  or  otherwise  wound  the  joint  to  induce  the  formation  of 
roots.  Vines  or  stools  grown  for  the  production  of  layers  should  be 
cut  back  severely  in  fall  or  winter,  to  induce  a  vigorous  growth  of 
canes  the  following  season.  These  canes  are  then  layered  the 
succeeding  fall  or  spring.  Only  a  part  of  the  canes  are  layered 
from  any  stool,  some  of  them  being  allowed  to  grow  for  cutting 
back  the  next  autumn  in  order  to  get  another  crop  of  canes.  In 
some  varieties  which  do  not  strike  readily  from  cuttings,  layering 
is  considerably  practiced  by  nurserymen.  The  Delaware  is  often 
grown  in  this  way. 

Extra  strong  layers  can  be  secured  by  layering  in  pots.  A  large 
pot,  filled  with  rich  soil,  is  plunged  beneath  the  layer.  In  this 
way  a  layer  may  be  rooted  and  separated  even  while  carrying 
fruit.     Layering  in  pots  is  practiced  only  in  special  cases. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  323 

In  vineyards,  layering  is  often  employed  for  the  purpose  of 
filling  vacancies.  A  strong  cane  is  left,  without  pruning,  on  a 
neighboring  vine  in  the  same  row,  and  in  the  spring  the  end  of  it  is 
laid  down  in  the  vacant  place.  The  vine  is  covered  a})out  a  half 
foot  deep,  and  the  free  end  of  it  is  turned  up  perpendicularly  out  of 
the  earth  and  tied  to  a  stake.  By  fall  or  the  following  spring  the 
layer  should  be  sufficiently  rooted  to  allow  the  parent  cane  to  be 
cut  away. 

Green-layering  is  sometimes  practiced  on  new  and  scarce 
varieties,  but  strong  plants  are  not  obtained  unless  they  are  well 
handled  by  forceful  culture  after  they  are  separated.  The  growing 
cane  is  layered  in  midsummer,  usually  by  serpentine  layering. 

Cuttings  are  usually  employed  by  nurserymen  to  propagate  the 
grape.  These  are  of  many  fashions.  In  all  ordinary  cases  hard- 
wood cuttings  are  made  from  the  ripened  canes  in  autumn  or 
winter  when  the  vines  are  pruned.  It  is  advisable  to  take  the 
cuttings  before  the  canes  have  been  exposed  to  great  cold.  Choose 
only  those  canes  that  are  well  matured,  solid  and  rather  short- 
jointed.  In  common  practice,  the  cuttings  are  made  in  two-bud 
lengths,  the  lower  cut  being  close  to  the  bud.  The  cuttings  will 
range  from  6  to  10  inches  in  length.  Some  prefer  three-bud 
cuttings  (Fig.  98),  but  unless  the  cane  is  very  short-jointed, 
such  cuttings  are  too  long  to  be  planted  and  handled  economi- 
cally. Three-bud  cuttings  usually  give  stronger  plants  the  first 
season,  because  roots  start  from  both  joints  as  a  rule. 

Very  strong  plants  are  obtained  from  mallet  cuttings  (Fig.  100), 
but  as  only  one  such  cutting  can  be  made  from  a  cane,  unless  the 
cane  bears  very  strong  branches,  they  are  not  much  used.  Various 
methods  of  peeling,  slitting  and  slicing  cuttings  are  recommended, 
in  order  to  extend  the  callusing  process,  but  they  are  not  used  in 
common  or  commercial  practice. 

Grape  cuttings  are  tied  in  bundles  of  50  or  100,  and  stored  in 
sand,  moss  or  sawdust  in  a  cellar,  until  spring,  when  they  are 
planted  in  rows  in  the  open.  Some  varieties,  of  which  the  Dela- 
ware is  an  example,  do  not  strike  readily  from  cuttings.  Some 
growers  start  common  cuttings  of  these  under  glass  in  spring. 
Others  bury  the  bundles  of  cuttings  in  a  warm  exposure  in  autumn, 
with  the  butt  ends  up  and  about  level  with  the  surface  of  the  ground. 
This  is  supposed  to  induce  callusing.  (See  page  87.)  At  the 
approach  of  cold  weather  the  cuttings  are  removed  to  a  cellar,  or 
are  heavily  mulched  and  allowed  to  remain  where  buried.     Storing 


324  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

is  safer.  Some  growers  obtain  the  same  results  by  burying  upside 
down  in  a  cellar.  These  slow-rooting  sorts  often  start  well  if  they 
are  simply  kept  in  a  warm  cellar  —  but  where  the  buds  will  not 
swell  —  all  winter,  as  the  callusing  is  then  hastened.  At  the  end 
of  the  first  season  the  plants  may  be  transplanted.  The  plants 
are  often  sold  at  this  age,  but  buyers  usually  prefer  two-year-old 
plants. 

Single  bud  or  "  eye  "  cuttings  are  largely  used  for  the  newer 
and  rarer  varieties.  These  are  cut  from  the  canes  in  the  fall,  the 
same  as  long  cuttings,  and  are  stored  in  boxes  of  sand  or  moss.  A 
month  before  the  weather  becomes  settled,  these  boxes  may  be 
taken  into  a  house  or  greenhouse,  or  put  in  a  mild  hotbed,  to  induce 
the  formation  of  the  callus.  They  may  then  be  planted  outdoors, 
and  a  fair  proportion  of  most  varieties  may  be  expected  to  grow. 
The  best  and  commonest  way  of  handling  eyes,  however,  is  to  start 
them  under  glass.  They  are  planted  horizontally,  or  nearly  so, 
and  about  an  inch  deep  in  sand  or  sandy  earth,  in  a  cool  greenhouse 
in  late  winter  —  in  February  in  the  northern  states  —  and  in 
about  six  weeks  the  plants  will  be  large  enough  to  pot  off  or  to 
transplant  into  coldframes  or  a  coolhouse.  If  only  a  few  plants  are 
to  be  grown,  they  may  be  started  in  pots.  When  the  weather  is 
thoroughly  settled,  they  are  transferred  to  nursery  rows,  and  by 
fall  they  will  make  strong  plants.  Various  ways  are  recommended 
for  the  cutting  of  these  eyes  —  as  cutting  the  ends  obliquely  up  or 
down,  shaving  off  the  bark  below  the  bud,  and  so  on  —  but  the 
advantages  of  these  fashions  are  imaginary.  A  good  eye-cutting 
is  shown  in  Fig.  113.  The  foreign  grapes  are  propagated  by  eyes  in 
the  North,  although  long  cuttings  also  give  good  results. 

Soft  cuttings  are  sometimes  used  to  multiply  new  kinds.  These 
may  be  taken  in  summer  from  the  growing  canes,  but  the  plants  are 
usually  forced  in  winter  for  the  purpose  of  giving  the  extra  wood. 
Cuttings  are  taken  off  as  fast  as  buds  form,  and  they  are  forced  in 
close  frames  with  a  good  bottom  heat.  The  cuttings  may  comprise 
two  buds,  with  the  leaf  at  the  upper  bud  remaining,  or  they  may  bear 
but  a  single  eye,  in  which  case  the  leaf,  or  the  most  of  it,  is  left  on. 
This  rapid  multiplication  from  small  soft  wood  usually  gives  poor 
plants  ;  but  strong  plants  may  be  obtained  by  allowing  the  wood  to 
become  well  hardened  before  it  is  used.  Soft  cuttings  will  root  in 
two  or  three  weeks  under  good  treatment. 

To  secure  extra  strong  plants  from  single  buds,  the  eyes  may  be 
saddle-grafted  or  whip-grafted  on  a  root  2  or  3  inches  long.     The 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  325 

root-grafts  are  then  treated  in  the  same  way  as  eye  cuttings,  only 
that  they  are  usually  grown  in  pots  from  the  start. 

The  vine  may  be  grafted  with  ease  by  any  method.  Cleft- 
grafting  is  commonly  employed  on  old  plants.  The  cions  are 
inserted  on  the  crown  of  the  plant,  just  below  the  surface  of  the 
ground.  The  cleft  is  bound  with  string,  and  then  covered  with 
earth,  no  wax  being  necessary.  The  best  time  to  perform  the 
operation  is  very  early  in  spring,  before  the  sap  starts.  Vines  may 
be  grafted  late  in  spring  also,  after  danger  of  bleeding  is  paist,  if 
the  cions  are  kept  perfectly  dormant.  Vines  are  sometimes  grafted 
in  the  fall,  but  this  practice  cannot  be  recommended  in  the  North. 
Young  plants  are  usually  whip-grafted  at  the  crown,  either  indoors 
or  outdoors.  Grafting  the  vine  is  mostly  confined  to  Europe, 
California,  and  other  countries  where  the  European  grape  {Vitis 
mnifera)  is  grown,  as  that  species  must  be  grafted  upon  some  other 
stock  in  order  to  resist  the  phylloxera.  The  common  wild  frost- 
grape  {Vitis  vulpina)  is  the  most  popular  stock.  The  union  in  these 
cases  must  not  be  much  below  the  ground,  unless  it  is  desired  that 
the  cion  take  root.  The  union  is  sometimes  wound  with  waxed 
muslin  and  the  earth  is  heaped  about  it  until  it  has  healed.  Grapes 
can  be  grafted  by  the  cleft-graft  below  ground  as  readily  as  pears  or 
apples  can  be  worked.  For  pictures  of  various  methods  of  graft- 
ing the  grape,  see  Figs.  172,  173,  192,  195.  Fig.  173  represents  a 
good  type  for  general  use  on  old  vines. 

The  vine  is  frequently  inarched,  and  early  in  spring  it  can  be 
budded  by  ordinary  methods. 

Seed-grafting  is  a  curious  practice,  which  may  be  applied  to  the 
grape  (see  page  166). 

There  is  so  much  misapprehension  respecting  the  methods  and 
results  of  the  grafting  of  grapes,  that  the  following  directions  by 
the  veteran  viticulturist,  the  late  George  Husmann,  of  California 
(as  given  in  American  Agriculturist,  1896),  are  here  transcribed  in 
full : 

"  A  good,  thin-bladed,  sharp  knife  to  cut  the  cions,  a  sharp  saw 
to  cut  off  large  stocks  —  the  smaller  ones  can  be  cut  with  good 
pruning  shears  —  a  chisel  for  grafting  having  a  blade  2^  or  3  inches 
broad  in  the  middle  and  a  wedge  on  each  side  [a  knife  with  but  a 
single  wedge,  as  in  Figs.  168  and  169,  will  answer  the  same  purpose], 
a  wooden  mallet,  and  a  few  strings  of  raffia,  or  other  bandage,  in 
case  a  stock  should  need  tying,  whicli  is  seldom  the  case  —  are 
the  implements  necessary  for  grafting.     The  cions  should  be  of 


326  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

selected  wood,  the  size  of  a  lead-pencil,  or  somewhat  larger,  cut 
sometime  in  winter,  tied  in  bundles,  and  buried  their  entire  length 
on  the  shady  side  of  a  building,  or  under  a  tree,  to  keep  them  dor- 
mant. Short-jointed,  firm  wood  is  to  be  preferred.  All  can  be 
carried  in  a  basket,  if  one  intends  to  perform  the  operation  alone. 
If  several  are  to  work  together,  of  course  the  tools  must  be  divided 
accordingly.  In  California  we  work  generally  in  gangs  of  three, 
the  first  man  clearing  away  the  ground  from  the  stock  until  he 
comes  to  a  smooth  place  for  inserting  the  cion,  whether  this  be  at 
the  surface  or  slightly  below.  The  former  is  preferable  if  resistant 
vines  are  to  be  grafted  with  non-resistant  cions.  He  then  cuts  off 
the  stock  horizontally  about  an  inch  and  a  half  above  a  knot  or 
joint.  The  next  man  cuts  the  cions  to  a  smooth,  long,  sloping 
wedge  just  below  a  bud  [as  shown  in  Fig.  167],  then  splits  the  stock, 
either  with  pruning  shears  or  chisel,  according  to  its  size.  If  the 
stock  is  not  more  than  an  inch  in  diameter,  the  shears  are  best,  as 
only  one  cion  is  to  be  inserted.  Keep  the  blade  of  the  shears  on 
the  side  where  the  cion  is  to  join  the  stock,  so  as  to  prevent  bruising, 
and  make  a  long,  smooth,  sloping  cut,  a  little  transversely  if 
possible,  as  the  junction  will  thereby  become  all  the  more  perfect. 
Then  push  the  wedge  of  the  cion  firmly  down  into  the  cleft,  taking 
care  that  the  inner  bark  or  fiber  of  stock  and  cion  are  well  joined, 
as  on  this  principally  depends  the  success  of  the  operation.  To 
open  the  cleft,  the  wedges  on  the  chisel  are  used  if  necessary.  An 
expert  will  depend  very  little  on  these,  unless  the  stocks  are  very 
heavy,  but  will  open  the  cleft  with  knife  or  shears,  and  then  push 
down  the  cion  to  its  proper  place.  The  inner  side  of  the  cion,  oppo- 
site the  bud,  should  be  somewhat  thinner,  so  that  the  stock  will 
close  firmly  on  it ;  the  cion  should  also  be  inserted  far  enough  so 
that  the  bud  is  just  above  the  horizontal  cut  on  the  stock.  The 
third  man  follows,  presses  a  little  moist  earth  on  the  surface  of  the 
stock,  and  then  hills  up  around  the  junction  to  the  uppermost  buds 
of  the  cion  with  well-pulverized  soil,  taking  care  not  to  move  the 
cion,  and  the  operation  is  finished.  It  becomes  necessary  some- 
times to  tie  the  stock,  when  it  is  not  large  enough  or  from  some 
defect  in  grafting  it  does  not  firmly  hold  the  cion.  In  such  a  case, 
pass  a  string  of  raffia  or  some  other  flat  bandage  firmly  around  the 
stock  and  tie  it,  but  in  no  case  use  grafting  wax  or  clay,  as  the  strong 
flow  of  sap  from  all  the  pores  is  apt  to  drown  and  sour  the  cion, 
while  without  obstructing  it,  it  will  flow  around  the  stock,  serving 
to  keep   the  junction   moist  and  facilitate   the   union.     As   the 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  327 

whole  operation  is  covered  with  earth,  there  is  no  danger  of 
drying  up,  as  is  sometimes  the  case  when  fruit  trees  are  top- 
grafted. 

*'  A  very  important  consideration,  to  insure  success,  is  to  equalize 
the  stock  and  cion.  If,  therefore,  large  stocks  are  to  be  grafted, 
we  must  have  strong,  well-developed  wood  for  the  cions,  and  have 
buds  enough  to  take  up  the  full  flow  of  sap,  while  small  stocks,  if 
used  at  all,  should  be  grafted  with  small  cions  of  only  two  or  three 
buds.  When  the  stocks  are  strong,  I  take  two  cions  and  insert 
one  on  each  side  of  the  stock,  of  full  length,  say  from  14  to  16 
inches,  and  with  six  to  eight  buds  each.  This  has  many  advantages. 
The  principal  one  is  that  they  will  elaborate  and  work  up  the  entire 
flow  of  sap.  Another  is,  that  if  the  cions  have  well-developed 
fruit  buds,  they  will  produce  quite  a  number  of  clusters  from  the 
upper  buds,  and  thus  show  the  character  of  the  fruit  the  first  year. 
I  have  picked  a  thousand  pounds  of  grapes  from  an  acre  thus 
grafted,  the  first  summer,  and  a  full  crop  of  five  or  six  tons  per  acre 
the  following  season.  x\nother  advantage  is  that  it  establishes 
the  crown  of  the  graft  at  the  right  distance  from  the  ground,  as  the 
three  upper  buds  vdll  produce  the  canes  for  the  next  season's 
bearing.  If  both  cions  grow,  cut  off  the  weakest  above  the  junction 
the  next  spring,  leaving  only  the  strongest.  I  generally  find  that 
the  whole  surface  of  the  stock  is  covered  by  the  new  growth,  and 
that  the  junction  between  stock  and  cion  is  perfect.  Another 
advantage  is  —  especially  in  California,  where  we  plow  and 
cultivate  close  to  the  vines,  and  where  some  of  the  workmen  are 
careless  —  they  are  more  apt  to  run  over  and  disturb  the  small 
grafts  than  the  large  ones,  which  are  protected  by  hills  of  earth 
above  the  surface  ;  nor  are  the  young  shoots  distur))ed  and  broken 
so  easily  by  careless  hands  or  high  winds.  A  stake  should  be  driven 
close  to  the  graft  immediately  after  grafting  is  finished,  and  the 
young  shoots,  when  they  appear,  tied  to  it  for  support,  as  tliey 
generally  start  vigorously  and  are  easily  broken  off,  or  blown  off  by 
high  winds.  Do  not  be  discouraged  if  some  time  elapses  before 
they  start.  I  have  often  had  them  remain  dormant  until  July  or 
August,  and  then  make  a  rapid  growth.  If  suckers  from  the  stock 
appear  —  as  is  generally  the  case  —  they  should  be  removed  at 
once,  taking  care  to  cut  them  close  to  the  stock,  so  as  to  have  no 
stumps  or  dormant  buds.  Tying  and  suckering  should  be  repeated 
every  week  or  ten  days  at  least.  As  long  as  the  cion  remains  fresh 
and  green  it  may  begin  growing  at  any  time.     Of  course,  care 


328  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

must  be  taken  not  to  disturb  the  cion.  If  everything  does  well, 
there  will  be  three  or  four  canes  from  the  upper  buds,  which  may  he 
pruned  just  as  any  other  bearing  vines." 

Grapefruit,  Pomelo,  Shaddock  {Citrus  grandis).     Rutaceoe. 

Propagated  by  budding  on  seedlings  of  sour  orange,  rough  lemon 
and  grapefruit,  also  on  Poncirns  trifoliata.     See  Orange. 

Grasses,  agricultural. 

The  grasses  of  meadows  and  pastures  are  mostly  perennial. 
They  are  propagated  by  seeds,  usually  sown  in  the  cool  of  the 
year  as  in  spring  in  wheat  fields  or  other  grain.  Usual  quantities 
of  seed  to  the  acre  are  as  follows  :  timothy,  15  to  25  pounds ;  blue- 
grass  (june-grass),  25  pounds;  brome-grass,  12  to  20  pounds; 
johnson-grass,  1  to  1^  bushels;  orchard-grass,  12  to  15  pounds; 
sheep  fescue,  2^  to  3  bushels ;  rye-grass,  2  to  3  bushels ;  redtop,  12  to 
15  pounds.     Many  combinations  of  these  and  other  grasses  are  used. 

Grasses,  ornamental. 

The  perennial  ornamental  grasses  are  in  most  cases  increased 
by  seed  or  division.  It  is  usually  best  to  propagate  varieties  with 
variegated  foliage  by  division,  although  some  of  the  variegated  forms 
of  Zea  Mays  come  true  from  seeds.  Arundo  Donax  variegata  is 
increased  by  division,  as  it  rarely  seeds  (at  least  North).  The 
annual  ornamental  grasses  are  raised  readily  from  seeds. 

Grevillea.     Proteaccce. 

Grown  from  seeds,  sown  under  glass  in  late  winter;  also  by 
cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood.  The  common  silk  oak  of  green- 
houses (G.  rohusia)  is  raised  extensively  from  seeds  ;  it  is  attractive 
only  in  its  young  stage,  and  new  plants  are  raised  frequently. 
Most  of  the  species  graft  readily  on  G.  rohusia. 

Grmdelia.     Compositce. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  in  the  open  or  under  glass,  by  divisions 
and  by  cuttings. 

Guava  (Psidium,  several  species).     Myrtaceoe. 

The  guavas  grow  readily  from  seeds,  and  plants  often  bloom 
when  a  year  and  a  half  old.  They  may  also  be  multiplied  by  layers, 
and  by  cuttings  either  under  glass  or  in  the  open.  Grafting  and 
budding  have  also  been  practiced.  The  usual  method  is  by  seed, 
but  as  named  horticultural  varieties  become  more  prominent,  rapid 
vegetative  means  of  propagation  must  be  perfected. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  329 

Gunnera.     Haloragidaceoe. 

Propagated  by  division.     Seeds  may  be  employed  when  obtain- 
able, but  often  they  germinate  with  difficulty. 

Guzmania.     Bromeliaceoe. 
Propagation  as  for  tillandsia,  which  see.     See  BromeliacecB. 

Gymnocladus  (Kentucky  Coffee  Tree).     LeguminoscB. 

Readily  increased  by  seeds,  which  start  better  if  soaked  for  a 
few  hours  in  hot  water.     Also  propagated  by  root-cuttings. 

Gynandropsis.     CapparidaceGe. 

Propagation  by  seeds  as  for  cleome,  which  see. 

Gynerium.    Cortaderia. 

Gynura.     Compositor. 

Multiplied  easily  by  seeds ;   also  by  cuttings  of  growing  shoots. 

Gypsophila.     CaryophyUaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  division,  and  sometimes  by  cuttings.     They 
grow  readily  from  seeds,  both  the  annual  and  perennial  kinds. 


Haemanthus  (Blood  Flower).     Amaryllidacew. 

Propagated  by  offsets  which  should  be  removed  and  potted 
when  the  plants  are  beginning  growth  in  spring.     Rarely  by  seeds. 

Hakea.     Proteaceoe. 

Usually  grown  from  seeds,  sown  in  winter  or  early  spring,  in 
mixture  of  sand,  leaf-mold  and  loam.  Hakeas  should  be  pricked 
off  into  boxes  and  kept  in  a  lathhouse  for  a  season  before  planting 
in  the  open.  Well-ripened  cuttings  may  be  placed  in  sandy  peat 
under  glass,  in  a  cool  house. 

Halesia  (Silver-Bell.    Snowdrop-Tree).     Siyracaceae. 

Seeds,  which  rarely  germinate  till  the  second  year,  should  be 
stratified  or  kept  constantly  moist.  Sometimes  they  are  sown  as 
soon  as  ripe,  but  accidents  are  likely  to  happen  before  tliey  ger- 
minate. Propagation  is  also  effected  by  layers,  and  by  cuttings  of 
the  roots  in  spring  and  autumn,  and  by  greenwood  cuttings  taken 


330  THE    NURSERY-MANUAL 

from   forced   plants.     Layers    are    commonly   employed   in    this 
country. 

Halimodendron  (Salt  Tree).     Leguminosoe. 

Increased  by  seeds,  layers  and  cuttings,  the  layers  often  rooting 
tardily ;  may  also  be  grafted  on  common  laburnum  and  on  pea- 
tree  or  caragana.     Thin  winter  cuttings  in  bottom  heat  root  readily. 

Hamamelis  (^Yitch-hazel) .     Hamamelidaceoe. 

All  kinds  grow  from  seeds  or  layers,  and  the  Japan  species  succeed 
if  grafted  on  American  species  in  the  greenhouse  in  spring.  H. 
virginiana  may  be  propagated  readily  by  layers.  Seeds  usually 
germinate  the  second  year. 

Hamelia.     RubiacecE. 

May  be  increased  by  seeds.  Cuttings  of  nearly  ripe  wood  will 
root  in  early  summer  under  glass. 

Hardenbergia.     Leguminosoe. 

For  propagation,  seeds  may  be  used ;  also  increased  by  division. 
Cuttings  of  firm  young  side  shoots  in  spring  will  grow  under  glass 
in  a  warm  frame  or  pit. 

Harrisia  (one  of  the  segregates  of  Cereus).     Cactaceoe. 
For  propagation,  see  Cacti,  page  261. 

Hatiora.     Cactaceoe. 

Propagation  as  for  rhipsalis  (H.  salicornioides  is  usually  known 
as  Rhipsalis  salicornioides).     See  Cacti,  page  261. 

Haworthia.     Liliaceoe. 

Propagation  as  for  aloe,  which  see. 

Hedera  (Ivy).     Araliaceoe. 

Increased  by  layers  and  seeds  sown  soon  after  ripening,  usually 
not  germinating  until  the  second  year.  The  rooted  parts  of  the 
vine  may  be  severed  and  treated  as  independent  plants.  Cuttings 
may  be  made  in  autumn  placed  in  pots  or  in  the  open  ground. 
Named  varieties  are  grafted  on  the  stock  of  any  strong  form.  The 
slow-growing  bushy  kinds  may  not  grow  readily  from  cuttings; 
cions  of  them  may  be  grafted  on  cuttings  of  freer-growing  kinds. 

Hedychium  (Garland  Flower).     Zingiber aceoe. 

Increased  by  dividing  the  rhizomes  in  spring,  when  the  plants  are 
repotted.     Rarely  propagated  by  seeds. 


THE    NURSERY-LIST  331 

Hedysarum.     Leguminosae. 
Propagation  is  by  seeds  and  division. 

Hedyscepe.     PalmacecB. 

Seeds.     See  Palms,  page  377. 

Helenium.     Compositae. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  cuttings,  and  division. 

Helianthemum  (Rock  Rose.     Sun  Rose).     CistaeeoB. 

Propagation  is  easily  effected  by  divisions,  from  greenwood  cut- 
tings, and  by  seeds. 

Helianthus  (Sunflower).     Compositce. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in  pots  and  the  seedUngs 
transferred,  or  in  the  open  ground  in  spring ;  also  by  divisions. 
Of  perennial  sorts,  use  the  underground  shoots  or  "  creepers," 
treating  as  for  cuttings.  Some  of  them  (as  the  Jerusalem  arti^ 
choke)  bear  subterranean  tubers.     See  Artichoke. 

Helichrysum,  Elichrysum  (Everlasting).     Composifw. 

The  annual  species  may  be  raised  from  seed  in  early  spring  and 
afterwards  transplanted  ;  or  sown  in  the  open  ground  when  weather 
is  warm.  The  perennial  species  are  increased  by  cuttings  in  spring 
under  glass. 

Helicodiceros.     Aracece. 

Propagation  as  for  arum,  by  offsets  or  by  seeds  when  procurable. 
See  AracecB,  page  239. 

Heliconia.     MusaceoB. 
Multiplied  by  dividing  the  rhizome,  and  by  seeds. 

Heliopsis.     Compositce. 

Propagated  readily  by  seed  and  division. 

Heliotropium  (Heliotrope).     Boraginacece. 

The  common  practice  is  to  use  cuttings,  taken  at  almost  any 
season  if  good  stout  growing  shoots  are  to  be  had.  They  start 
readily  in  sand  on  a  cutting-bench,  or  under  a  frame.  Shade  for  a 
time.  Plants  for  bedding  are  struck  in  late  winter  from  stocks 
which  are  in  a  vigorous  condition.  For  winter  flowers,  cuttings 
may  be  taken  in  July.     Seeds  are  also  employed. 


332  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Helipterum,  including  Rhodanthe.     CompositoB. 

Seeds  sown  in  early  spring  under  cover,  or  directly  in  the  open 
garden. 

Helleborus  (Black  Hellebore.     Christmas  Rose).     Ranunculaceoe. 
Seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  may  be  used  for  the  obtaining  of 
new  varieties.     Root- divisions  are  usually  employed.     See  Vera- 
trum  for  white  and  green  hellebore. 

Hemerocallis  (Day  Lily).     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  division  of  the  clumps,  which  should  also  be 
divided  for  the  good  of  the  plant.  Seeds  may  be  used,  sown  as 
soon  as  ripe,  of  such  kinds  as  produce  them ;  the  young  plants 
should  remain  in  seed-boxes  until  the  following  spring,  when  they 
may  be  planted  out  in  rows.       Fig.  50. 

Hepatica.     Ranunculaceoe. 

Propagated  by  division  of  the  roots  in  autumn;  also  by  seeds 
sown  very  shallow  in  a  moist  shaded  soil. 

Heracleum  (Cow-Parsley.  Cow-Parsnip).      UrnbellifercB. 

Increased  by  seeds  or  division,  the  former  usually  growing  readily 
if  fresh. 

Herniaria.     Caryophyllacece. 

Propagated  by  division  and  seed. 

Hesperis  (Dame's  Violet.   Rocket).     Cruciferoe. 

The  single  kinds  are  grown  from  seeds  ;  the  double  forms  (which 
are  most  prized)  by  dividing  the  roots,  and  by  cuttings. 

HeterocentTon.     Melastomaceas. 

Propagation  as  for  centradenia,  which  see. 

Heuchera  (Alum  Root).     Saxifragaceoe. 

Increased  by  dividing  the  clumps  in  spring  or  autumn,  and  also  by 
seeds. 

Hevea  (Brazilian  Rubber-Tree).     Euphorhiaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seed,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  ;  a]so  by  cuttings. 

Hibiscus.     MalvaceoB. 

Cuttings  of  green  wood  are  commonly  used,  made  in  summer  for 
hardy  species  or  in  early  spring  for  tender  ones.     Cuttings  of 


Plate  X.     First-class  dwarf  apple  stock  ;  —  at  left,  two-year  whole-root 

grafts. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  333 

ripened  wood  may  be  taken  in  fall,  and  stored  until  r.pring  in  a 
rather  dry  place.  Also  increased  by  seeds,  divisions  and  layers. 
The  variegated  sorts  do  better  if  grafted  on  strong  stocks. 

Hickory  (Carya,  or  Hicoria,  species).     Juglandaccoe. 

Propagated  chiefly  by  seeds,  which  should  be  stratified  or  planted 
(about  3  inches  deep)  as  soon  as  ripe.  Seeds  are  sometimes  planted 
at  intervals  in  the  field  where  the  trees  are  to  stand;  but  this 
practice  is  scarcely  to  be  recommended,  when  there  is  opportunity 
to  transplant  seedlings  annually  in  the  nursery  (established  trees 
do  not  transplant  well).  Seeds  may  be  planted  directly  in  the 
nursery  in  autumn,  but  to  obviate  loss  by  rodents  it  is  customary 
to  stratify  them  till  spring,  the  husks  being  first  removed ;  the 
nuts  are  not  cracked.  The  hickory  can  be  grafted  by  veneer-  or 
splice-grafting  in  winter  on  potted  stocks,  without  special  dif- 
ficulty. Cleft-grafting  can  be  employed  outdoors,  however, 
the  stub  being  cut  3  to  6  inches  below  the  ground,  and  the  cions 
covered  with  earth,  as  for  grafting  the  grape.  The  cions  must  be 
perfectly  dormant,  and  are  safer,  therefore,  if  they  have  been  kept 
on  ice  or  in  a  very  cold  cellar.  Saddle-grafting  upon  young  twigs 
is  sometimes  used.  Shield-  and  flute-budding  often  succeed  in 
the  hickories,  as  in  fact  many  kinds  of  graftage  do ;  but  the  skill 
of  the  operator  is  more  important  than  the  method.  Named 
varieties  may  be  worked  on  potted  plants  of  C.  cordiformis  (C. 
amara)  under  glass  in  spring.     See  also  Pecan. 

Fuller's  method  of  propagating  the  hickory  is  to  employ  the 
side  roots  of  the  tree,  which  are  severed  and  allowed  to  grow  from 
the  severed  end.  As  described  by  W.  A.  Taylor,  '^  the  severed 
side  roots  are  straightened  up  and  tied  to  stakes  to  hold  them  in 
position,  with  their  cut  ends  about  level  with  the  surface  of  the 
ground  to  stimulate  the  formation  of  shoots  from  adventitious 
buds,  one  of  which  is  eventually  made  the  trunk  of  the  new  tree. 
The  lower  end  of  the  root  is  not  severed  until  the  top  has  formed, 
when  the  new  tree  should  be  transplanted  to  its  permanent  location 
in  rich  and  mellow  soil  and  kept  well  mulched  until  thoroughly 
established.  The  method  is  slow  and  sharply  limited  in  extent  of 
application,  but  is  perhaps  the  surest  in  the  hands  of  the  amateui 
grower." 

Hidalgoa.     Compositce. 

Seeds  ;   also  cuttings.     Closely  allied  to  dahlia. 


334  THE   NURSERY- MANUAL 

Hieracium  (Hawk- Weed).     CompositoB. 

The  flower-garden  species  are  grown  readily  from  seeds,  blooming 
the  first  or  second  year. 

Higginsia :    Hoffmannia. 

Hippeastrum  (Equestrian  Star).     AmaryllidacecB. 

x\s  for  amaryllis,  which  see.  Usually  handled  by  the  offsets 
that  form  about  the  bulb.  These  are  taken  when  the  plants  are 
lifted  or  repotted.  Do  not  cover  the  neck  of  the  bulb.  In  a  year 
or  two,  depending  on  size,  the  offsets  should  make  strong  blooming 
plants.  Seeds  usually  grow  readily,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.  If  the 
young  plants  are  kept  growing  continuously,  blooming  specimens 
may  be  had  in  two  \'ears. 

Hippophae  (Sea  Buckthorn).     Eloeagnaceoe. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  at  once  or  stratified,  by  suckers,  layers, 
cuttings  of  the  roots  and  cuttings  of  mature  wood  in  spring. 

Hoffmannia.     Rubiacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  in  sand,  with 
bottom  heat. 

Hohenbergia.     Bromeliax^ecB. 
As  for  billbergia,  which  see. 

Holcus  (the  proper  name  for  the  Sorghums  and  Kafirs).     Graminecr. 
Propagated  usually  by  seeds ;    sometimes   by  cuttings,  as  also 
in  sugar-cane,  which  see. 

Holly :    Ilex. 

Hollyhock  (Althaea).     Malvaceas. 

Usually  grown  from  seed  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  in  summer. 
See  that  the  soil  is  mellow  and  moist,  to  encourage  the  development 
of  side  roots  rather  than  a  deep  tap-root.  The  seedlings  are 
sometimes  carried  over  winter  in  a  frame.  The  summer  following 
sowing,  plants  should  give  good  bloom.  Seeds  may  also  be  kept 
over  winter  and  sown  in  spring.  If  sown  in  February  or  March 
and  plants  kept  growing  rapidly,  bloom  may  be  had  late  the  first 
vear. 

V 

Hollyhocks  are  sometimes  propagated  by  cuttings  of  short  young 
shoots  that  arise  from  the  crown.     A  crown  may  be  lifted  in  spring 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  335 

and  covered  with  sand  to  encourage  the  formation  of  such  shoots, 
.^-'ometimes  the  roots  of  strong  fresh  plants  are  divided  after  flower- 
ing, each  eye  carrying  with  it  a  good  set  of  roots. 

Holodiscus  (sometimes  included  in  Spiraea).     Rosaceae. 

Propagated  by  seeds  usually  sown  in  fall  in  boxes,  slightly  covered 
with  soil  or  on  a  slight  top  layer  of  moss  where  they  require  no 
covering ;  by  layers ;  or  sometimes  by  greenwood  cuttings  under 
glass  taken  with  a  heel. 

Hop  (Humulus).     Moracece. 

The  annual  ornamental  Japanese  hop  is  grown  readily  and 
freely  from  seeds,  often  self-sowing.  The  common  field  liop 
{Humulus  Lupulu^),  which  is  perennial,  is  propagated  by  cuttings 
of  the  underground  stems,  which  are  taken  in  spring,  4  to  8  inches 
long  and  with  two  to  six  eyes,  and  usually  set  two  to  four  together 
in  hills  directly  where  the  crop  is  to  grow ;  sometimes  the  cuttings 
are  heeled  in  on  a  moist  place  till  planting  time  arrives. 

Horse-Radish  (Roripa  Armoracia;  formerly  Nasturtium  Armora- 
cia) .  CrucifercB. 
Root-cuttings  (*'  sets  ")  are  made  from  the  small  side  roots  when 
the  horse-radish  is  dug.  They  may  be  anywhere  from  ^  to  1  inch 
in  diameter,  and  3  to  6  inches  long,  one  end  being  cut  slanting,  to 
mark  it.  These  are  planted  obliquely,  2  to  4  inches  deep,  in 
spring.  They  may  be  buried  in  winter.  The  old  crowns  may  be 
planted,  but  they  make  poorer  roots.     Fig.  105. 

Hosta,  also  known  as  Funkia  (Plantain  Lily).     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  when  ripe  ;  blooming  plants  should  be 
had  in  one  to  three  years.    Usually  by  dividing  the  clumps  in  spring. 

Hottonia.     Primulacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  and  by  division  in  spring. 

House  Plants. 

The  common  conservatory  plants,  as  fuchsias,  geraniums,  car- 
nations, give  best  results  when  allowed  to  bloom  but  one  year. 
They  are  then  thrown  away  and  their  places  supplied  by  other 
plants  ;  or  the  old  stocks  may  be  cut  back,  if  still  vigorous,  so  that 
cuttings  may  be  made  from  the  new  shoots  that  arise.  Cuttings 
are  generally  made  in  late  winter  or  spring  for  the  next  winter's 


336  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

bloom.     These  cuttings  are  slips  (page  107)  of  the  growing  wood. 
See  the  various  species,  under  their  respective  heads. 

Hovenia.     Rhamnacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  cuttings  of  mature  wood  struck  under 
glass,  and  also  by  root-cuttings. 

Howea  (commonly  known  as  Kentias).     Palmacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  in  light  soil,  with  heat.  See  Palms,  page 
377. 

Hoya  (Wax-Plant).     Asclepiadaceae. 

Handled  by  layers  and  cuttings.  The  common  wax-plant,  H. 
carnosa,  is  readily  propagated  by  layering;  the  long  shoots  make 
roots  naturally.  Cuttings  may  be  taken  in  spring  of  firm  wood. 
Some  species  may  be  grafted  on  stronger-growing  kinds. 

Humulus :    Hop. 

Hunnemannia.     PapaveraceoB. 

Grown  from  seed ;  in  the  East  seeds  sown  early  in  May  give 
bloom  in  summer. 

Hyacinthus  (Hyacinth).     Liliaceae. 

For  the  production  of  new  varieties  seeds  are  employed.  These 
are  sown  the  same  season  they  mature,  in  light  sandy  soil,  and  are 
covered  not  more  than  \  inch  deep.  In  four  or  five  years,  or 
sometimes  even  longer,  the  bulbs  will  be  large  enough  to  flower. 

Varieties  are  perpetuated  by  means  of  the  bulbels,  which  form 
freely  on  some  varieties.  These  are  treated  in  much  the  same  way 
as  mature  bulbs,  or  they  may  be  handled  in  pans  or  flats.  They 
make  flower  bulbs  in  two  or  three  years.  To  increase  the  numbers 
of  these  bulbels,  the  bulbs  are  variously  cut  by  the  Dutch  growers. 
These  practices  are  described  and  illustrated  on  pages  59  and  60, 
Figs.  46,  47. 

Hyacinths  can  be  propagated  by  leaf -cuttings.  Strong  leaves 
should  be  taken  in  early  spring  and  cut  into  two  or  three  portions, 
each  portion  being  inserted  about  an  inch  in  good  sandy  loam,  and 
given  a  temperature  of  about  75°.  In  eight  or  ten  weeks  a  bulblet 
will  form  at  the  base  of  the  cutting  (see  page  59).  The  lower  leaves 
give  better  results  than  the  upper  ones.  These  bulblets  are  then 
treated  in  the  same  manner  as  bulbels.  For  Hyacinthus  candicans, 
see  Galtonia,  page  316. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  337 

Hydrangea,  Hortensia.     Saxifragaceoe. 

Seeds  may  be  employed  when  they  are  produced ;  hut  usually 
the  hardy  species  are  propagated  by  green  cuttings  in  summer, 
under  glass  (see  Fig.  112).  The  tender  ones  {H.  opuloides,  the  var. 
Otaksa,  etc.)  are  increased  by  cuttings  taken  at  any  time  from 
vigorous  young  wood,  usually  in  late  winter.  Layers  are  occa- 
sionally employed,  and  suckers  can  be  separated  from  some  species. 
Sometimes  the  hardy  species  are  forced  for  purposes  of  propaga- 
tion by  cuttage.  H.  quercifolia  is  propagated  by  little  suckers  or 
**  root  pips."  H.  paniculata  var.  grandiflora  can  be  propagated 
easily  from  the  young  wood,  taken  in  June  and  planted  under 
glass. 

Hydrastis  (Goldenseal).     Ranunculaceoe. 

Seeds  sown  in  autumn  or  spring  in  a  well-protected  shady  place 
should  grow  readily.     Old  plants  or  colonies  may  be  divided. 

Hydriastele.     PalmacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds.     See  Palms,  page  377. 

Hydrocleis  (Water-Poppy).     Butomacece. 
Propagated  by  dividing  the  rooting  stems. 

Hydrocotyle  (Water  Pennywort).      Umhclliferce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  cuttings  or  layers.  Usually  spreads  by  the 
rooting  stems. 

Hylocereus  (separated  from  the  old  genus  Cereus).     Cax^taceoB. 
For  propagation,  see  Cacti,  page  261. 

Hymenocallis.     AmaryllidacecB. 

Increased  by  offsets  from  the  bulbs.  Treated  the  same  an 
amaryllis  and  pancratium,  which  see. 

Hymenophyllum  (Filmy  Fern).     HymcnophyUacccB. 

Propagated  by  spores  and  by  dividing  the  roots.     See  Ferns. 

Hypericum  (St.  John's-Wort).     HyperlcaceoB. 

Most  of  the  species  grow  readily  from  seeds.  Some  of  them  pro- 
duce runners  that  may  be  used  as  cuttings  or  layers.  The  shrubby 
kinds  are  handled  by  cuttings  of  green  wood  under  glass  in  summer. 
Division  may  be  practiced  in  some  cases,  and  suckers  may  In* 
removed  when  they  are  produced. 


338  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Hyssop  (Hyssopus  officinalis).     Labiatce. 

Grown  from  seed  sown  in  spring,  either  in  drills  where  the  plants 
are  to  stand  or  broadcast  in  nursery-beds.  It  may  also  be  prop- 
agated from  cuttings  or  division  in  spring  or  fall ;  greenwood 
cuttings  may  be  started  in  shade  in  early  summer. 


Iberis  (Candytuft).     Cruciferoe. 

The  annuals  and  biennials  are  increased  by  seeds  in  spring  or 
autumn.  Autumn-sown  plants  should  be  slightly  protected  during 
winter ;  these  will  bloom  from  spring  to  July  while  spring-sown  plants 
bloom  from  July  to  September.  The  sub-shrubby  sorts  are  in- 
creased by  seeds  sown  in  .spring,  and  by  divisions  and  cuttings 
taken  in  September  and  put  in  sand,  in  a  cold  propagating-frame. 

Ilex  (Holly).     AquifoliaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be  stratified.  They  are  often 
cleaned  of  the  pulpy  coat  by  maceration.  The  seeds  rarely  ger- 
minate until  the  second  year.  The  evergreen  species  may  be  in- 
creased by  cuttings  of  ripened  wood  under  glass.  Varieties  are 
perpetuated  by  graftage.  The  veneer-graft,  on  potted  plants,  is 
usually  employed,  but  other  methods  may  be  successful.  Budding 
is  sometimes  practiced.  /.  Aquifolium  and  /.  opaca  are  mostly 
used  as  stocks. 

Illicium.     MagnoliaceoB. 

Increased  by  seeds ;   also  by  cuttings  of  young  ripened  wood. 

Imantophyllum :     Clivia. 

Impatiens.     Balsaminacece. 

Grown  from  seeds.  The  indoor  sf)ecies  may  be  grown  either 
from  cuttings  or  seeds  ;   cuttings  usually  root  freely.     See  Balsam. 

Incarvillea.     Bignoniacece. 

Propagated  by  division  and  by  seed. 

Indigofera  (Indigo).     Leguminosoe. 

Multiplied  by  seeds,  and  by  cuttings  of  young  shoots  under  glass 
in  light  heat  and  hardwood  cuttings  in  winter. 

Inula.     Compositce. 

Seeds  usually  grow  readily,  giving  blooming  plants  the  second 
year.     Old  plants  may  be  divided. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  339 

^ochroma.     Solanaceae. 
Seeds  and  cuttings  as  for  cestrum. 

Ipomcea  (Moonflower.    Morning-Glory) .     Convohulaceoe. 

All  the  annual  species  (or  those  grown  as  annuals)  are  raised 
from  seeds.  Seeds  of  moonflowers  and  similar  species  should 
usually  be  filed  or  cut  on  the  point,  and  started  in  a  rather  high 
temperature.  The  perennials  are  also  increased  by  seedage,  but 
they  may  be  raised  from  cuttings  struck  in  a  forcing-house  or  a 
frame.  The  moonflowers  often  do  better  in  the  North  from  cuttings 
than  from  seeds  ;  this  is  true  also  of  some  of  the  greenhouse  species 
that  do  not  produce  seeds.  Some  kinds  root  with  difficulty  from 
cuttings,  however,  and  they  may  be  propagated  by  grafting  cions 
of  well-ripened  wood  of  roots  on  I.  pandurata  or  other  species. 
Division  is  sometimes  employed.  /.  pandurata  can  be  propagated 
by  root-cuttings ;  also  grafted.  See  Calonyction,  Quamoclit, 
Sweet  Potato. 

Iresine,  Achyranthes.     AmaranthaceoB. 

Increased  readily  by  cuttings.  For  summer  bedding  in  the 
North,  cuttings  should  be  started  in  February  or  March ;  for  use 
as  window  plants,  they  should  be  taken  in  late  summer.  Old 
plants  may  be  carried  over  winter  to  provide  a  supply  of  cuttings, 
or  plants  may  be  grown  for  this  purpose  from  cuttings  struck  in 
late  summer.     Rarely  propagated  by  seeds. 

Iridaceae.     Irids. 

The  rhizomatous  irids  are  easily  increased  by  offsets  or  division. 
The  species  and  varieties  of  crocus  and  gladiolus  are  readily  prop- 
agated by  offsets.  The  species  of  irids  produce  seed  freely  and 
are  rapidly  increased  from  these.  These  seeds  should  be  sown  as 
soon  as  ripe ;  if  carried  over  until  spring  the  germination  is  much 
slower. 

Iris.     IridacecB. 

Seeds  grow  readily  and  give  good  results,  and  are  usually  pro- 
duced freely,  especially  in  the  bulbous  species.  Sow  as  soon  iis 
ripe  in  light  soil  in  some  protected  place.  The  bulbous  species 
produce  bulbels,  which  may  be  used  for  nuiltiplication.  The 
rhizomatous  species  are  propagated  by  dividing  the  rhizome  into 
short-rooted  pieces  ;  or  when  the  rhizomes  lie  on  the  surface  of  the 
ground  and  do  not  root  readily,  they  may  be  layered.     See  lndncr(F. 


340  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Isoloma.     Kohleria.     Gesneriacece. 

Propagation  as  in  achimenes ;  the  usual  kinds  grow  readily 
from  seeds,  blooming  the  same  year  they  are  sown.  See  Ges- 
neriaceoB,  page  318. 

Itea.     Saxifragaceoe. 

Multiplied  by  seeds  and  by  suckers  ;  also  by  cuttings  and  division 
of  the  roots,  and  sometimes  by  layers. 

Ixia.     IridaceoB. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  autumn,  and  the  pans  or  boxes  kept  in  a 
cool  frame.     Seeds  should  give  blooming  plants  the  second  year. 

Propagation  by  bulbels  or  offsets  is  much  quicker,  and  is  the 
usual  method.  For  greenhouse  bloom  bulbs  should  be  planted 
from  September  15  to  October  30,  five  or  six  in  a  5-inch  pot  or 
eight  to  ten  in  a  6-inch  pot,  an  inch  deep  in  a  mixture  of  sandy  soil 
and  leaf-mold.  The  pots  should  be  stored  under  a  bench  or  in  a 
rather  dark  cellar,  at  a  temperature  of  45°.  For  outdoor  culture, 
bulbs  should  be  planted  as  late  as  November  30,  3  inches  deep  in  a 
frame  and  covered  with  leaves,  hay  or  pine-needles. 

Ixiolirion.     AmaryllidacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  and  by  offsets  from  the  bulbous  roots tocks. 

See  AmaryllidaceoB,  page  228. 

Ixora.     RubiaceoB. 

Readily  increased  in  spring  by  cuttings  of  three  or  four  joints  in 
sharp  sand  under  heat  and  protected  from  sun.  They  may  also 
be  propagated  by  seeds,  when  obtainable. 


Jacaranda.     BignoniaceoB. 

Seeds  when  obtainable ;    cuttings  of  half -ripened  wood. 

Jacobinia.     AcanfhaceoB. 

Propagated   easily   by   cuttings,    much    as    for    fuchsia.     New 
plants  should  be  grown  every  year  for  best  results  in  conservatory 

Jacquemontia.     ConvolvulaceoB. 
Propagated  by  seeds  and  cuttings,  much  as  for  ipomcea. 

Jamesia.     SaxifragacecB. 
Propagated  by  seeds,  and  by  cuttings  of  ripened  wood. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  341 

Jasminum  (Jasmine.   Jessamine).     OJcaceoe. 

Propagated  readily  by  cuttings  of  nearly  mature  wood  under 
glass  in  summer ;  also  by  ripe-wood  cuttings  taken  in  autumn,  by 
layers,  and  sometimes  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe. 

Jatropha.     Euphorbiacece. 

Readily  raised  from  seeds.  Propagated  also  by  cuttings  from 
firm  young  wood  struck  in  sand  over  bottom  heat ;  the  cuttings 
should  be  dried  somewhat  before  setting,  as  the  plants  have  milky 
juice. 

Jubaea  (Coquito  Palm  of  Chile).     Palmacece. 

Propagation  is  by  seeds,  started  in  a  warm  house  and  kept  moist. 
See  Palms,  page  377. 

Juglans  (Walnut  and  Butternut).     JuglandaceoB. 

All  the  species  are  readily  propagated  by  means  of  stratified 
nuts.  Do  not  allow  the  nuts  to  become  dry.  Artificial  cracking 
should  not  be  practiced.  In  stiff  soils  the  seedlings  are  likely  to 
produce  a  long  tap-root  which  renders  transplanting  difficult  after 
the  first  year  or  two.  The  tap-root  may  be  cut  by  a  long  knife 
while  the  tree  is  growing,  or  the  young  seedling  may  be  transplanted. 
Particular  varieties  are  perpetuated  by  grafting  or  budding  with 
any  of  the  common  methods ;  but  the  skill  of  the  grafter  is  more 
important  than  the  method.  In  the  North,  they  are  sometimes 
worked  indoors  in  pots.  Common  shield-budding  works  well,  if 
the  sap  is  flowing  freely  in  the  stock.  Flute-budding  is  often 
employed.  The  improved  native  sorts  are  root-grafted  in  winter. 
Old  trees  can  be  top-grafted  like  apple  trees  (see  page  151).  If 
nursery  stocks  are  grafted,  it  is  usually  best  to  insert  the  cions 
below  ground,  as  for  grapes.  In  all  walnut  grafting,  it  is  generally 
preferred  that  only  one  scarf  or  cut  of  the  cion  should  tra\erse  the 
pith.     It  is  important  that  the  cions  be  kept  perfectly  dormant. 

The  "  English  "  walnut  {J.  rcgia)  is  mostly  grown  direct  from 
seed  in  this  country,  and  the  different  varieties  usually  come  true. 
In  California,  the  native  walnut  (J.  Hiiidsii  and  J.  calif ornica)  is 
often  used  as  a  stock  for  this  species,  and  flute-budding  on  branches 
a  half-inch  or  more  in  diameter  is  often  practiced.  Twig-  or  prong- 
budding  (Fig.  146)  is  sometimes  employed.     See  Walnut. 


342  THE    NURSERY-MANVAL 

Juncus  (Rush.  Bulrush).     JuncacecB. 
Propagated  by  seeds,  the  perennials  also  by  division. 

Juneberry  (Amelanchier  species).     Rosaceoe. 

Increased  by  using  the  sprouts  which  form  freely  about  the  old 
plants ;  also  by  seeds.  The  cultivated  dwarf  juneberry  is  multi- 
plied by  suckers.  Budding  and  grafting  on  seedling  stocks  may 
also  be  employed.     See  Amelanchier. 

Juniperus  (Juniper.  Red  Cedar.  Savin).     Pinacece. 

Increased  readilv  bv  seeds,  which,  however,  often  lie  dormant 
until  the  second  year  and  sometimes  even  to  the  third  year.  Red 
cedar  seed  is  one  of  the  kinds  which  lie  dormant  a  year.  They 
germinate  more  readily  if  the  pulp  is  removed  by  maceration  or  by 
soaking  with  ashes  for  a  few  days.  Green  cuttings,  in  sand  under 
glass,  root  easily ;  or  mature  cuttings  may  be  taken  in  fall  and 
placed  in  a  coldframe,  in  which  they  will  need  little  protection 
during  winter.  Some  varieties  require  a  long  time  to  root,  even 
twelve  to  eighteen  months.  Most  of  the  named  varieties  may  be 
grafted  on  imported  Irish  stocks,  which  are  much  used  in  some 
parts  of  the  country.  They  may  be  veneer-grafted  and  handled 
in  a  cool  house.  The  shrubby  species,  especially  J.  Sabijia,  are  also 
propagated  by  layers.     Fig.  95. 

Jussiaea.     Onagraceoe. 

Increased  by  seed  sown  in  fall  or  spring  in  shallow  water,  using 
seed-pans  or  pots ;  cover  seed  with  finely  sifted  soil,  place  pot  in 
water  but  do  not  submerge  until  the  second  day. 

Justicia.     AcanthacecB. 

Most  of  the  plants  commonly  cultivated  as  justicias  are  jacobinias, 
which  see.  The  true  justicias  are  propagated  by  cuttings  of 
firm  wood,  usually  in  late  winter  or  spring  under  glass. 


Kadsura.     Magnoliacece. 

Increased  by  seeds ;   and  by  cuttings  of  nearly  ripened  wood 
under  glass. 

Kafir,  Kafir-Corn  (Holcus  Sorghum).     GramineoB. 
By  seeds,  as  for  maize. 

Kaki :   Persimmon. 


THE    NURSERY-LIST  34;i 

Kalanchoe.     Crassulacew. 

Propagated  by  seed  when  obtainable,  but  cuttings  are  more  used. 
They  grow  readily  from  several  parts,  as  do  the  crassulas. 

Kale  (Brassica  oleracea  var.  acephala).     Cruciferce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  in  the  open  in  early  spring  in  the  North, 
or  in  the  fall  in  the  South.  They  are  hardy  plants,  standing  much 
frost ;  should  be  grown  in  the  cool  season. 

Kalmia  (Mountain  Laurel.    Calico  Bush).     Ericaceoe. 

Kalmias  may  be  increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  in 
spring  in  shallow  pans  of  sandy  peat  or  sphagnum,  and  kept  in  a 
coldframe  until  the  seedlings  are  large  enough  to  transplant.  After 
being  established,  the  young  plants  are  hardened  oif  and  the  next 
year  transferred  to  frames  or  open  beds.  By  cuttings  of  young 
shoots  in  sandy  peat,  placed  in  a  shady  situation  under  a  hand- 
glass (with  much  difficulty).  Also  propagated  by  layers.  Usually 
obtained  from  the  woods.  Varieties  are  veneer-grafted  under 
glass,  on  unnamed  stocks. 

Kaulfussia :   Charieis. 

Kennedya.     LeguminosoB. 

Handled  freely  from  seeds  sown  in  spring  or  summer  in  pans  or 
flats  ;   also  by  cuttings  of  the  firm  green  wood. 

Kentia :    Hoicea. 

Kerria.     Rosacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  when  these  are  produced,  as  on  the  single- 
flowered  forms ;  also  by  division,  layers,  and  by  cuttings  of  young 
shoots  under  glass,  and  by  ripened  cuttings.  In  this  country, 
oftener  increased  by  ripe-wood  cuttings  in  fall. 

Kniphofia  (Tritoma.    Poker  Plant).     Liliaceoe. 

Increased  by  seeds  when  they  are  produced,  and  by  division  of 
the  crown  in  early  spring  ;  also  by  the  offsets  borne  by  some  of  the 
kinds.  Seeds  of  the  common  kinds  should  produce  blooming 
plants  the  second  season,  sometimes  the  first  season. 

Kochia  (Summer  Cypress).     CheiiopodiaceoB. 

Grown  from  seeds  which  may  be  sown  indoors  in  April  and  the 
plants  set  out  in  May ;  or  sown  in  the  open  when  the  weather  is 
warm. 


344  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Koelreuteria.     Sapindacece. 

Grown  from  seeds,  stratified  or  sown  in  autumn ;  also  by  root- 
cuttings  and  young  or  low  plants  by  layers. 

Kohlrabi  {Brassica  oleracea  var.  Caulo-Rapa).     Cruciferce. 

Propagated  by  seed  sown  in  the  open  in  early  spring,  or  started 
in  a  hotbed  and  the  plants  transplanted.  Usually  sown  directly 
in  the  open  after  the  manner  of  turnips  or  rutabagas. 

Kumquat  (Fortunella  species).     Rutacece. 

Worked  on  stocks  of  three-leaved  orange  {Poncirus  trifoliata), 
rough  lemon  and  sweet  orange  by  the  ordinary  method  of  shield- 
budding.     See  Orange. 


Laburnum  (Golden-Chain).     Leguminosce. 

The  laburnums  are  increased  by  seeds  sown  usually  in  spring. 
Layers  and  suckers  are  often  used.  The  varieties  are  grafted  or 
budded  on  seedlings  of  the  common  sorts.     See  Cytisus. 

Lachenalla.     Liliacece, 

Seeds  usually  start  readily  and  blooming  plants  may  be  had  the 
same  season  if  kept  growing.  Offsets  from  the  bulbs  are  also  used, 
sometimes  making  blooming  bulbs  in  one  season. 

Lactuca.     Compositoe. 
The  ornamental  kinds  are  grown  readily  from  seeds.     See  Lettuce. 

Lselia.     Orchidacece. 

Increased  by  pseudobulbs,  as  in  cattleya.     See  also  Orchids. 

Lagenaria  (Gourd).     CucurbitacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  ;  in  the  North  these  may  be  started  indoors 
in  pots,  but  usually  they  are  planted  where  they  are  to  grow. 

Lagerstroemia  (Crape  Myrtle).     Lythraceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  boxes  in  autumn,  and  by  layers  and 
cuttings  of  ripe  wood.  In  long-season  climates  the  plant  may 
bloom  the  first  year  from  seed. 

Lagunis.     Gramineoe. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  in  fall  and  plants  set  out  in  spring,  or 
by  seeds  started  in  spring. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  345 

Lamarckia.     Gramineoe, 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  in  spring  or  fall,  and  the  plants  set 
out  in  the  spring ;   also  by  spring-sown  seeds. 

Lantana.     Verhenaceae. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  give  new  varieties,  and  by  cuttings,  in 
fall  or  spring,  from  good  growing  wood,  in  sand  in  a  warm  house  or 
frame.  For  florist's  use,  old  plants  are  lifted  or  repotted  in  early 
autumn  to  stimulate  cutting  wood ;  cuttings  are  then  taken  in 
winter  or  spring  and  blooming  plants  are  had  for  summer. 

Lapageria.     Liliacece. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  when  procurable,  in  a  sandy 
peat  soil,  and  kept  in  a  moderate  heat.  Increased  by  layers  of 
firm  strong  shoots  from  which  some  of  the  leaves  have  fallen.  The 
shoot  may  be  bent  back  and  forth  in  a  box  of  sand  and  peat,  being 
pegged  down  and  then  covered  with  the  earth ;  keep  moist,  and 
shoots  will  start  from  the  joints  and  when  rooted  may  be  separated 
and  potted. 

Lapeyrousia.     Iridaceoe. 

Increased  by  division  of  the  bulbs. 

Lariz  (Larch.    Tamarack).     PinaceoB. 

Usually  grown  from  seeds,  which  should  be  kept  dry  over 
winter  and  planted  early  in  spring ;  shade  the  young  plants. 
Varieties,  as  the  weeping  sorts,  are  worked  on  common  stocks 
(usually  the  European  larch).  The  grafting  may  be  done  by  the 
whip  method,  outdoors  early  in  spring.  Rare  sorts  are  sometimes 
veneer-grafted  under  glass.  Rarely  increased  by  cuttings  of 
nearly  ripened  wood  under  glass  or  by  layers. 

Lasiandra :    Tihouchina. 

Latania.     PalmacecB. 

Propagated  by  imported  seeds  sown  in  strong  bottom  heat.  See 
Palms,  page  377. 

Lathyrus  (Vetchling).     Leguminosce. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  very  early  in  the  open  ;  the  perennials 
also  by  seeds,  something  by  division,  and  special  varieties  by  cut- 
tings in  the  fall,  after  the  flowering  season,  or  in  spring  from  old 
plants  stored  in  the  greenhouse.  The  sweet  pea  may  be  sown  before 
frosty  weather  is  passed,  and  south  of  Norfolk  it  is  usually  satis- 


346  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

factory  if  sown  in  the  fall.     See  Sweet  Pea.     The  everlasting  pea 
(L.  Icdifolius)  is  increased  by  seeds,  division  and  cuttings. 

Launis  (Laurel).     Lauraceos. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  layers  and  by  cuttings,  under  glass  in 
sandy  soil ;  also  by  root-cuttings.  The  bay  tree  {Laurus  nohilis)  is 
grown  from  cuttings  of  well-ripened  wood  3  to  4  inches  long,  struck 
in  sharp  sand  under  glass,  bottom  heat  not  being  essential ;  the 
rooted  cuttings  are  potted  off  and  grown  under  glass  or  in  a  hotbed. 

Lavandula  (Lavender) .     Lahiatae. 

Cuttings  may  be  made  in  late  fall  or  early  spring,  of  the  season's 
growth  with  a  heel  of  older  wood.  These  should  be  inserted  in 
sandy  soil,  under  a  frame.  Also  propagated  by  seeds  and  division ; 
but  seeds  do  not  give  desired  varieties  and  plants  from  divisions 
are  more  susceptible  to  disease. 

Lavatera.     Mahacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds.  The  perennial  species  can  probably  be 
multiplied  by  cuttings. 

Layia.     Compositce. 

Handled  by  seeds,  sown  in  a  hotbed,  or  in  the  open  border  in  the 
South  and  for  late  bloom. 

Ledvim  (Labrador  Tea).     Ericacece. 

Multiplied  by  seeds  sown  in  spring  in  peaty  soil,  much  as  azaleas  ; 
also  by  division  and  by  layers. 

Leek  (Allium  Porrum).     Liliaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  very  early  in  the  spring,  either  out- 
doors or  in  a  coldframe ;  usually  started  where  the  plants  are  to 
stand ;  frost-hardy. 

Leiophyllum  (Sand  Myrtle).     EricaceoB. 

Increased  freely  by  seeds  in  boxes  or  pans  and  placed  in  a  frame ; 
also  by  layers  in  autumn. 

Lemon  {Citrus  Limonia).     Rutacece.    (H.  H.  Hume.) 

The  named  varieties  are  propagated  by  budding  on  sour  orange 
or  rough  lemon  stocks.  Sour  orange  stocks  are  most  commonly 
used  as  they  are  adapted  to  a  wide  range  of  soil  conditions.  For 
indoor  culture  Poncirus  trifoliata  stock  is  best.  For  methods  of 
propagation,   see   Orange.     Lemons  may  be  grown  from  mature 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  347 

wood  cuttings  which  are  set  in  sand  in  a  frame  or  in  the  open 
ground  in  spring.  Rooted  cuttings  may  also  be  used  for  stock. 
Lentil  (Lens  esculenta).     Leguminosce. 

Grown  from  seeds,  sown  in  early  spring  where  the  plants  are  to 
stand. 

Leonotis  (Lion's  Ear.     Lion's  Tail).     Labiatoe. 

Increased  by  cuttings  in  bottom  heat  in  early  spring  and  may  be 
transplanted  to  the  open  in  May;  also  grown  from  seed  when 
obtainable. 

Leontice.     BerheridacecB. 

Increased  by  seeds,  and  by  suckers  from  the  rhizomes. 
Leontopodium  (Edelweiss.     Lion's  Foot).     CompositoB. 

Edelweiss  may  be  raised  annually  from  seeds,  or  the  old  plants 
may  be  divided  in  fall  and  wintered  in  a  coldframe.  The  seeds 
must  be  kept  in  a  dry  place  throughout  the  winter  and  should  be 
sown  about  February  1,  which  gives  plants  large  enough  to  be 
planted  out  in  permanent  quarters  in  late  spring.  Plants  bloom 
the  following  year,  although  a  few  flowers  may  be  had  the  first 
year  from  seed. 

Lepidium:   Cress. 

Leptospermum.     Myriacew. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  well-ripened  wood  in  fall  or  of  young 
growth  in  summer  or  in  spring  under  glass  ;  also  grown  from  seeds 
sown  in  spring. 

Leptosyne.     Compositoe. 

Grown  readily  from  seeds,  usually  started  indoors. 

Lespedeza.     Leguminosoe. 

Increased  by  division  of  the  clumps  ;  L.  formosa  (L,  Sieboldii)  by 
greenwood  cuttings  under  glass ;  also  by  seeds  when  obtainable, 
sown  in  spring.  L.  striata  is  the  so-called  Japan  clover,  an  annual 
grown  in  the  South  for  hay ;  15  to  25  pounds  of  seed  are  sown  to 
the  acre. 

Lettuce  (Lactuca  sativa).     Compositoe. 

Raised  from  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  under  glass  or  in  the  open. 
The  early  crop  is  grown  from  seeds  started  indoors ;  the  summer 
crop  may  be  sown  in  frames  or  protected  seed-beds ;  sometimes 
lettuce  is  sown  in  the  open  directly  where  the  plant.s  are  to  stand 


348  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

for  a  home  supply.  In  the  middle  and  southern  states,  the  seeds 
may  be  sown  in  the  fall,  and  the  plants  protected  from  cold  by  a 
mulch ;   or  the  plants  may  grow  in  winter  in  the  warmer  countries. 

Leucadendron  (Silver  Tree).     Proteaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  the  seedlings  being  carefully  protected 
from  damping  off.  It  is  desirable,  before  the  hypocotyl  or  stem 
of  the  germinating  plantlet  becomes  hardened,  to  sink  the  pot  in 
water  when  the  plant  is  dry,  not  allowing  the  water  to  come  ov^"^ 
the  rim. 

Leucojum,  often  spelled  Leucoium  (Snowflake).     AmaryllidacecB. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  produce  flowering  bulbs  in  a  year 
or  two.  Propagation  is  commonly  by  bulbels,  however,  which 
should  be  taken  as  soon  as  possible  after  the  herbage  matures. 

Leucothoe.     EricaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  under  glass  in  moss 
and  sand  and  plants  pricked  off  into  boxes ;  by  divisions  of  estab- 
lished plants  in  autumn  or  winter,  by  layers  and  the  underground 
runners  ;  cuttings  may  be  rooted  in  sand  over  gentle  bottom  heat. 

Levisticum  (Lovage).      UmbelliferoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  the  open  ground,  and  division  in 
spring  or  autumn. 

Lewisia.     PortulacacecB. 

Handled  by  seeds,  or  by  division  in  spring.  The  root  of  the 
bitter-root  (L.  rediviva)  may  live  for  years  out  of  the  ground. 

Liatris  (Blazing  Star.     Button  Snake-Root).     Compositw. 

Seeds  are  usually  sown  early  in  autumn  or  in  spring.  Some 
species  produce  offsets,  and  of  others  the  clumps  may  be  divided. 

Libocedrus.     Pinaceae. 

Grown  from  seeds  when  they  are  procurable,  sown  in  spring. 
Cuttings  may  be  started  under  glass  in  summer  or  autumn.  It 
may  be  grafted  on  related  plants,  as  thuja  and  chamaecyparis. 

Libonia :  Jacobinia. 

Licuala.     Palmacece. 

Raised  from  seeds  sown  at  any  time  in  a  sandy  soil,  in  strong  bot- 
tom heat.     See  Palms,  page  377. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  349 

Ligustrum  (Privet.    Prim).     OleacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  fall  or  stratified;  and  by  division 
Seeds   may  not  germinate  the   first  year.     The   named   varieties 
are   usually   grown  under  glass    from    cuttings  of  green  or  ripe 
wood,  and  are  sometimes  grafted  on  L.  vulgare  or  L.  ovalifoUum. 

Liliaceae.     Liliads. 

Nearly  all  liliaceous  plants  seed  freely.  Some  produce  small 
bulblets  on  the  flower-stems.  Others  are  propagated  by  dividing 
the  bulbs.  The  strong  growing  lilies  with  thick  scaly  bulbs  may 
be  increased  by  stripping  off  the  scales  and  planting  them  as  cut- 
tings. The  seeds  of  hardy  kinds  may  be  sown  out-of-doors  in 
April  or  May.  The  seeds  of  tender  sorts  may  be  sown  as  soon  as 
ripe  in  a  greenhouse  with  a  temperature  of  60°  to  70°.  Many  of 
the  liliaceous  plants  are  propagated  by  offsets,  but  the  larger  number 
may  be  increased  by  seeds. 

Lilium  (Lily).     Liliaceoe. 

The  usual  propagation  of  the  true  lilies  is  by  offsets  from  the 
bulbs,  but  seeds  may  be  employed  for  the  production  of  new  varie- 
ties. With  a  few  species,  blooming  bulbs  may  be  had  the  second 
season  after  seeds  are  sown,  but  usually  three  to  five  or  even  six 
years  are  required.  Seeds  commonly  germinate  within  a  month  or 
two  if  sown  in  autumn  when  fresh,  but  dried  seeds  may  lie  dormant 
much  longer.  Seeds  of  some  species  do  not  germinate  till  the  first 
or  second  spring.  Lily  seeds  are  usually  sown  about  ^  inch 
deep  under  moss  in  boxes  of  sand  and  kept  under  glass  till  they 
germinate ;  then  out-of-doors  protected  from  direct  sun. 

Usually  lilies  are  increased  by  bulbels,  which  should  be  planted  a 
few  inches  apart  in  prepared  beds.  The  offsets  or  bulbels  are 
taken  about  the  time  seeds  would  ripen,  as  the  roots  are  most 
dormant  then ;  in  two  or  three  years  blooming  bulbs  should  be 
secured  if  the  offsets  are  taken  good  care  of  in  well-prepared  beds. 
Sometimes  small  bulblets  form  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves,  and  these 
are  used  in  the  same  way  as  bulbels.  Bulb-scales  are  often  em- 
ployed for  the  multiplication  of  scarce  kinds,  giving  blooming 
bulbs  in  two  or  three  years.  Those  that  produce  large  and  loose 
bulbs,  as  L.  candidum,  may  be  increased  by  simple  division. 
These  operations  are  described  on  pages  57  and  58. 

Lily-of-the-Valley :  Convallaria. 


350  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Lime  {Citrus  aurantifolia) .     Rutaceoe.    (H.  H.  Hume.) 

Trees  produced  from  seeds  vary  in  size,  quality  of  fruit  and 
productiveness,  and  to  produce  trees  true  to  type  should  be  budded 
on  rough  lemon  or  lime  seedlings.     See  Orange. 

Limnanthemum :   Nymphoides. 

Limnobium.     HydrocharitacecB. 

Propagated  by  division  of  the  runners. 

Limnocharis.     ButomaceoB. 

Increases  naturally  by  offsets  or  suckers  from  the  flower-stem ; 
also  by  seeds,  sometimes  self -sowing. 

Linaria.     Scrophulariacece. 

Annual  species  (or  those  treated  as  such)  are  readily  raised  from 
seed,  which,  as  they  are  small,  are  usually  sown  indoors  and  the 
seedlings  transplanted ;  sometimes  seeds  are  sown  where  the  plants 
are  to  grow.  The  perennials  are  usually  increased  by  means  of 
division,  but  also  by  seeds  when  obtainable. 

Linum  (Flax).     LinaceoB. 

Multiplied  by  seeds,  the  hardy  species  sown  outdoors  and  the 
tender  ones  under  glass.  Cuttings  may  be  taken  from  firm  shoots 
of  the  perennial  species  and  inserted  in  sand  under  glass.  The 
ordinary  flax  (L.  usitatissimum)  is  sown  directly  in  the  field,  from 
2  to  6  pecks  of  seed  being  used,  depending  on  whether  grown  for 
linseed  or  fiber.     See  Reinivardtia. 

Lippia.      VerhenaceoB. 

Usually  increased  by  cuttings  of  young  shoots  under  glass. 
Cuttings  of  the  hard  wood  may  be  used  in  autumn,  under  glass. 
Also  grown  from  seeds.  The  running  kinds  are  increased  by  simple 
division  of  the  plants.  The  lemon  verbena  (L.  citriodora,  often 
called  aloysia)  is  grown  quickly  from  cuttings  taken  from  cut-back 
stock  plants  in  late  winter  or  early  spring ;  such  plants  should  be 
of  blooming  size  by  summer.  L.  canescens  is  now  much  used  as  a 
ground  cover  or  lawn  plant  in  California  and  elsewhere  (under  the 
name  Lippia  repens).  It  is  a  creeping  perennial,  rarely  producing 
seeds.  Propagated  by  sods  cut  to  2  inches  square  and  planted  a 
foot  or  two  apart. 

Liquidambar  (Sweet  Gum).     HamamelidacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be  stratified  or  sown  as  soon 
as  ripe.     Many  of  the  seeds  may  lie  dormant  until  the  second  vear. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  351 

Liriodendron  (Tulip  Tree.     Whitewood).     MagnoUaceoB. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  are  stratified  as  soon  as  they  are 
ripe,  and  sown  the  following  spring.  The  seeds  of  the  tulip  tree  are 
likely  to  be  hollow,  especially  those  grown  along  the  eastern  limits 
of  the  distribution  of  the  species.  Layering  is  sometimes  employed 
for  horticultural  varieties,  or  they  may  be  grafted  on  common 
seedling  stocks. 

Litchi   {Litchi  chinensis  or  Nephelium  Lifchi).     SapindaceGB. 

The  "  gootee  "  method  of  propagation  (as  described  by  Popenoe) 
is  commonly  used.  "  A  healthy,  well-matured  branch  is  chosen, 
and  a  narrow  ring  of  bark  removed  just  below  a  leaf-bud  or  node. 
Around  this  is  formed  a  ball  of  clay  soil,  with  an  outer  covering  of 
coconut  fiber,  tow,  or  moss,  to  hold  it  together.  A  little  above  the 
ball  a  good-sized  flower-pot  or  earthen  vessel  is  suspended,  and  a 
piece  of  soft  rope  is  inserted  through  the  small  hole  in  the  bottom. 
The  rope  should  fit  the  hole  snugly,  and  is  knotted  on  the  inside  ; 
it  is  then  carried  to  the  gootee,  and  wound  around  the  ball  several 
times.  The  water  trickles  from  the  pot,  which  should  be  filled  every 
day  or  two,  and  after  running  slowly  down  the  rope  is  distributed 
over  the  gootee,  keeping  it  uniformly  moist.  The  gootee  is  made 
in  spring,  from  February  to  April,  depending  on  climatic  conditions, 
and  at  least  three  or  four  months  are  required  for  roots  to  form. 
When  the  ball  is  filled  with  roots  and  they  begin  to  show  on  the 
surface,  the  branch  is  severed  from  the  tree  and  planted  in  its 
permanent  location  in  the  orchard"  (Standard  Cyclo.  Hort., 
Vol.  IV).     Layering  and  inarching  may  also  be  practiced. 

Livistona.     Palmaceop. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  in  a  sandy  soil  and  placed  in  a  gentle 
bottom  heat.     See  Palms,  page  377. 

Loasa.     Loasacece. 

Mostly  raised  from  seeds  ;  the  perennials  may  also  be  propagated 
from  cuttings. 

Lobelia.     Campanulaceae. 

The  common  annual  flower-garden  lobelias  are  grown  from  seeds, 
usually  started  under  glass  but  sometimes  sown  in  the  open  where 
the  plants  are  to  stand.  Seeds  of  perennials  may  give  bloom  the 
first  year  if  started  early,  but  of  most  of  them  a  year  of  growth  is 
required  for  best  results.     Seeds  are  sometimes  sown  in  fall,  of 


352  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

the  perennials,  and  plants  carried  over  winter  in  a  frame.     Old 
but  vigorous  plants  may  be  divided. 

Loeselia  (Hoitzia).     Polemoniaceoe. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood  under 
glass. 

Loganberry  {Rubus  vitifolius  or  derivative).     Rosaceae. 

The  loganberry  or  logan  blackberry  is  propagated  by  root-tips, 
root-cuttings  and  layers.  The  only  commercial  method  is  to  root 
the  tips  in  autumn.  Seeds  give  various  plants,  but  most  of  the 
seedlings  may  be  expected  to  bear  fruit  closely  resembling  the 
loganberry.     See  Blackberry  and  Dewberry. 

Loiseleuria.     Ericaceoe. 

Propagation  by  layers  and  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood 
under  glass ;  also  by  seeds,  after  the  method  for  rhododendron. 

Lonicera  (Honeysuckle.    Woodbine).     CaprifoliaceoB. 

For  new  varieties  seeds  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  strati- 
fied, first  removing  them  from  the  pulp.  The  upright  species  are 
commonly  grown  from  layers  and  from  cuttings  of  dormant  wood. 
The  creepers  are  mostly  grown  from  dormant  cuttings.  Some 
species  do  well  from  greenwood  cuttings  in  summer  under  glass. 

Lopezia.     Onagraceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  mostly  started  indoors  ;  also  by  cuttings  of 
firm  wood. 

Loquat  (Eriobotrya  japonica).     RosaceoB. 

Readily  grown  from  seeds,  removed  from  fruit  as  soon  as  ripe 
and  planted  then.  Named  varieties  are  budded  on  seedling  stocks 
in  autumn,  the  buds  starting  the  next  spring.  Large  shield- 
buds  are  used.  Cleft-grafting  may  be  practiced  on  trees  or  large 
stocks. 

Lotus.     LeguminoscB 

Grown  from  seeds ;  the  woody  ones  by  cuttings  and  division, 
and  also  by  layers  when  the  branches  are  prostrate. 

Luculia.     RubiaceoB. 

Seeds  may  be  used,  when  obtainable.  Cuttings  may  be  employed 
but  require  some  skill.  Nearly  or  completely  ripened  wood  is 
taken  after  flowering,  which  will  be  in  late  winter  for  plants  grown 
for  holiday  trade.     They  are  kept  under  glass  with  mild  bottom 


THE  NURSERY-LIST  35:^ 

heat;    when  rooted,  the  plants  should  have  night  temperature  of 
about  60°,  being  hardened  off  if  to  be  placed  out-of-doors. 

Lucuma.     SapotaceoB. 

The  genus  comprises  several  species  of  tropical  fruits,  usually 
propagated  by  seeds,  the  outer  husk  being  first  removed  and  the 
seed  planted  at  once  in  sandy  soil.  Of  the  mamey  sapote  (L. 
mammosa),  seedlings  may  be  expected  to  bear  at  five  to  seven 
years  of  age.  Seedlings  of  the  ti-es  {L.  nervosa)  should  bear  in 
three  to  seven  years. 

Luffa  (Dish-cloth  Gourd.     Vegetable  Sponge).     Cucurbit acecB. 

Propagated  by  seed,  sown  in  the  open,  or  in  the  North  better 
started  in  pots  in  early  spring.  The  species  are  frost-tender  and 
in  general  should  be  handled  as  cucumbers  and  melons. 

Lunaria  (Honesty).     Cruciferas. 

The  biennial  species  is  propagated  by  seeds  and  the  perennial 
also  by  division. 

Lupinus  (Lupine).     Leguminosoe. 

Seeds  may  be  used  for  the  easy  propagation  of  all  the  species, 
usually  being  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  grow,  as  they  do  not 
bear  transplanting  well  after  attaining  some  age.  The  perennial 
species  forming  stools  may  be  increased  by  division. 

Lycaste.     Orchidaceoe. 

Propagation  by  division  and  pseudobulbs.    See  Orchids,  page  372. 

Lychnis,  including  Agrostemma  and  Viscaria.     Caryophyllaceoe. 

Propagated  readily  in  spring  by  seeds,  the  perennials  also  by 
division  and  sometimes  by  cuttings. 

Lycium  (Matrimony- Vine.     Box-Thorn).     Solanaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  layers ;  and  also  by  hardwood  cuttings 
in  autumn  or  spring,  and  some  species  by  the  natural  suckers. 

Lycopersicum :    Tomato. 

Lycopodium  (Club-Moss).     Lycopodiaceae. 

Increased  by  spores,  as  for  ferns  (which  see)  and  by  short  cuttings 
in  pans  or  pots  ;  sometimes  by  layers.     See  SclagincUa. 

Lycoris.     Amaryllidacece. 

Propagated  by  offsets,  as  for  amaryllis ;    also  by  seed   if  pro- 
curable, but  longer  time  is  usually  required. 
2a 


354  THE    NURSERY-MANUAL 

Lygodium  (Hartford  Fern.     Climbing  Fern).     Schizceaceoe. 
Propagation  by  spores,  and  divisions  of  the  root.     See  Ferns. 

Lyonia.     Ericacew. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  in  sandy  peat  soil,   as  for  othei 
Ericaceae ;  also  by  layers. 

Lysimachia  (Loosestrife).     PrimulacecB. 

Propagation  is  usually  by  division  in  autumn  or  spring ;    also 
by  cuttings  and  sometimes  by  seeds. 

Lythrum.     Lythracece. 

Grown  usually  from  division  of  strong  clumps ;    also  by  seeds 
as  for  other  perennials,  and  some  species  sometimes  by  cuttings. 


Macadamia  (Queensland  Nut).     Proteaceae. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  may  be  stratified  in  sand  or  planted 
singly  in  pots  of  porous  sandy  soil.  They  germinate  more  rapidly 
when  given  artificial  heat  or  planted  in  summer. 

Madura;  known  also  as  Toxylon    (Osage  Orange).     MoraceoB. 

Increased  by  seed  sown  in  the  spring ;  also  propagated  by  root- 
cuttings,  and  by  greenwood  cuttings  under  glass.  Seedlings  usually 
make  plants  the  first  year  strong  enough  for  planting  for  hedges. 

Madia.     Com  posit  cb. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  spring ;  the  kinds  usually  grown  are 
flower-garden  annuals. 

Magnolia.     Magnoliaceoe. 

Seeds  are  commonly  employed,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  or  stratified 
till  spring.  The  coverings  should  be  macerated  in  the  very  pulpy 
species.  The  seeds  of  cucumber  tree  and  some  others  are  sown 
directly  in  autumn.  The  seeds  of  any  species  should  not  be  allowed 
to  become  thoroughly  dry.     See  Michelia. 

Magnolias  strike  well  from  green  cuttings,  cut  to  a  heel  and 
handled  under  glass.  Layers  of  last  year's  growth  put  down  in  spring 
and  tongued  or  notched  are  often  used ;  layers  are  usually  severed 
and  transplanted  the  following  spring,  but  it  is  safer  to  take  them 
3ff  early  in  July,  plant  in  pots  and  keep  in  a  close  frame  until 
^tablished.     Named  varieties  are  veneer-  or  side-grafted  udop 


THE    NURSERY-LIST  355 

trong  stocks.  The  cucumber  tree  {M.  acuminata)  is  used  as  a  stock 
or  all  species.  The  umbrella  tree  (M.  tripefala)  is  also  a  good  stock. 

/lahernia.     Sferculiace(E. 
The  honey-bell    (M.  verticillata)    is   propagated  by   cuttings  of 
oung  shoots  an  inch  or  two  long,  under  glass. 

^ahonia.     Berheridaceae, 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  when  ripe,  or  stratified  and  sown  in 
pring;  also  by  suckers,  layers  or  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood 
inder  glass.  The  general  handling  is  as  for  berberis  (barberry),  with 
k^hich  the  mahonias  are  united  by  many  writers. 

Aaize,  Indian  Corn  {Zca  Mays).     Graniinew. 

Raised  from  seeds  (properly  fruits),  planted  when  the  weather  is 
ettled  directly  where  the  plants  are  to  stand  ;  frost-tender.  To  the 
ere,  6  to  8  quarts  of  seed  is  required  for  check-row  planting,  and 
•ften  as  much  as  one  bushel  of  shelled  seed  for  broadcasting  for 
odder ;  for  silage  corn,  8  to  12  quarts.  If  all  the  seed  germinates 
trongly,  thinning  may  be  required. 

/lalcomia,  Malcolmia.     CrucifercB. 

The  common  annual  Virginia  stock  (M.  ynaritima)  grows  readily 
rom  seeds  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  bloom.  In  the  milder  parts, 
eeds  may  be  sown  in  autumn. 

^alope.     MalvaceoB. 
Seeds  may  be  sown  under  glass  in  early  spring,  or  in  the  open 
month  or  two  later;  easily  grown  flower-garden  annuals. 

^alpighia.     Malpighiacew. 

Grown  from  cuttings  of  nearly  ripened  shoots  in  summer  under 
:lass.  Also  propagated  by  seeds.  The  Barbados  cherry  {M.  glabra) 
;rows  both  from  seeds  and  cuttings. 

^alus.     Rosaceae. 

The  apples  and  crab-apples  are  grown  usually  from  seeds,  and 
he  seedlings  may  be  grafted  or  budded  to  the  desired  variety.  See 
ipple,  Pyrus. 

Vlalva  (Mallow).     MahacecB. 

The  annuals  are  propagated  by  seeds  only  ;  the  perennials  by  seeds, 
livision  and  cuttings.  The  common  ornamental  kinds,  annuals  and 
perennials,  are  commonly  raised  from  seed. 


356  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Malvastrum.     Mahacece. 

Propagated  by  firm  green  cuttings  under  glass  in  late  winter  or 
spring ;   sometimes  by  seeds,  when  available. 

Malvaviscus.     MalvaceoB. 

Handled  by  seeds,  and  by  greenwood  cuttings  under  glass.  The 
familiar  M.  arhoreus  {Achania  Malvaviscus)  grows  readily  from 
cuttings. 

Mammea  (Mammee-Apple.  St.  Domingo  Apricot).  GuUiferoe. 
Usually  increased  by  seeds.  Cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots 
should  be  placed  in  a  frame.  Inarching  and  budding  probably 
should  be  practiced  for  desirable  named  varieties,  on  seedling 
stocks. 

Mammillaria.     Cadacece. 

Propagation  as  for  echinocactus,  which  see.    See  Cacti,  page  261. 

Mandevilla.     Apocynacece. 

Handled  by  seeds,  layers  and  usually  by  cuttings  of  half- 
ripened  wood  under  glass. 

Mandragora  (Mandrake).     Solanaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  division.  The  plant  usually  known  as 
mandrake  in  the  United  States  is  podophyllum,  readily  increased 
by  division  of  the  new  shallow  rhizomes,  lea\  ing  a  growing  end. 

Manettia  (now  called  Lygistum).     RubiaceoB. 

Usually  increased  by  cuttings  of  young  shoots  started  under  glass 
in  a  temperature  of  60°  to  65°.  Root-cuttings  are  sometimes  made, 
and  seeds  are  employed  when  obtainable.  This  genus  now  takes 
the  name  Lygistum. 

Manfreda.     Aviayllidaceoe. 

Propagation  as  for  agave,  which  see.   Usually  known  as  agaves. 

Mango  (Mangifera  indica).     Anacardiacece. 

Stocks  are  readily  obtained  by  seeds.  The  seeds  often  have 
more  than  one  embryo,  sometimes  as  many  as  ten.  Each  embryo 
will  produce  a  distinct  plant.  The  embryos  may  be  separated  before 
planting,  but  it  is  preferable  to  separate  the  young  plantlets  soon 
after  germination,  before  they  grow  together,  as  they  are  apt  to  do. 
The  seeds  germinate  better  if  the  hard  shell  is  removed  before  plant- 
ing. Seeds  retain  their  vitality  but  a  few  days,  and  if  to  be  shipped 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  357 

for  sowing  they  should  be  inclosed  in  wax.   Seedlings  begin  to  bear 
from  the  third  to  the  sixth  years. 

Varieties  are  inarched,  grafted  or  budded  on  other  stocks.  In- 
arching from  a  bearing  tree  to  a  seedling  is  an  old  practice,  but 
laborious  and  slow.  Budding  on  seedlings  about  a  year  old  may  be 
performed  on  pot-grown  stocks  or  on  plants  that  have  been  trans- 
planted to  the  nursery  row. 

Mangosteen  {Garmiia  Mangostana).     Guttiferce. 

Grown  from  seeds,  and  said  also  to  strike  from  cuttings  of  ripened 
shoots  under  glass  in  sand.  Seedlings  should  be  protected  from  the 
sun.  The  selected  forms  can  be  inarched  on  seedlings  of  mangosteen 
and  also  on  stocks  of  related  species  of  garcinia. 

Manihot.     Euphorbiacece. 

Propagation  is  by  cuttings  of  rather  firm  shoots  under  glass  ;  some 
kinds  by  root-cuttings  ;  by  seeds  when  securable.  For  the  propaga- 
tion of  M.  dulcis  var.  Aipi,  see  Cassava. 

Maranta.     Marantaceoe. 

Increased  by  division  of  the  crowns  in  spring.  Cuttings  may  be 
potted  in  equal  parts  of  loam,  leaf-mold,  sharp  sand  and  a  small 
part  of  broken  charcoal.  Some  of  the  plants  known  as  maranta  are 
properly  species  of  calathea,  which  see. 

Marguerite,   or  Paris  Daisy    {Chrysanthemum  frutescens  and   C. 
anethifolium) .     CompositoB. 
Increased  by  seeds  or  cuttings,  as  described  for  chrysanthemum, 
which  see. 

Marica.     IridaceoB. 

Handled  by  division  of  rhizomes  started  under  glass  or  with 
bottom  heat. 

Marrubium  (Horehound).     LahiatoB. 

Increased  by  seeds,  in  early  spring,  or  division.  Seeds  of  horehound 
(M.  vulgare)  should  give  good  plants  the  following  year  for  cutting. 

Marsdenia.     Asclepiadacece. 

Cuttings  made  in  spring  when  the  plants  are  pruned,  struck  under 
glass. 

Martynia  (Unicorn  Plant).     Martyniacew. 

Raised  from  seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  grow,  or  started 
under  glass  in  the  North ;  frost-tender  annuals. 


358  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Masdevallia.     Orchidacece. 

Propagation  by  division  in  early  winter.     See  Orchids,  page  372 

Matthiola   (Stock).     Cruciferce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  either  under  cover  or  in  the  garden. 
Grown  also  from  cuttings.  The  common  annual  or  ten-weeks'  stocks 
are  bloomed  mostly  from  seeds  started  in  late  winter  and  spring, 
the  plants  being  transferred  to  the  open  or  carried  under  glass.  The 
intermediate  and  perennial  stocks  are  bloomed  from  seeds  sown  the 
summer  or  fall  before,  or  in  winter  if  carried  forward  under  glass. 

Maurandia.     Scrophidariaceas. 

Seeds  should  be  planted  in  a  compost  composed  of  four  parts 
new  loam,  two  parts  leaf-mold,  one  part  sand ;  place  in  a  house 
with  temperature  of  about  60°  and  cover  with  glass.  Cuttings  of 
young  growth  under  glass  may  also  be  used. 

Maxillaria.     Orchidaceoe. 

Propagation  by  division  of  the  plants,  and  also  of  the  pseudobulbs. 
See  Orchids,  page  372. 

Meconopsis.     Papaveracece. 

Raised  from  seeds  sown  in  early  spring  inside  or  directly  in  the 
garden  where  the  plants  are  to  stand.  Also  propagated  by  division. 

Medicago  (Lucerne.     Medick).     Legumhiosae. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  by  division ;  alfalfa  {M.  saliva)  by  seeds 
in  spring  and  summer,  12  to  30  pounds  to  the  acre. 

Medinilla.     MelastomaceoB. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood  in  heat,  taken  in 
spring  and  kept  close  and  fairly  moist.     See  Melastomacew. 

Medlar :  Mespilns. 

Melaleuca.     Myrtacece. 

Grown  from  seeds ;  also  by  firm  cuttings,  mostly  in  spring. 

Melastomaceae.     Melastomads. 

Nearly  all  the  species  of  this  family  are  easily  increased  from 
cuttings  of  the  young  growth  or  partially  ripened  growths ;  a  few 
kinds  by  leaf-cuttings.  Ringing  and  mossing  are  practiced  for  large 
growing  points  of  plants  such  as  Miconia  magnifica  and  Tococa 
platyphylla.  The  cuttings  should  be  placed  in  small  pots,  in  equal 
parts  of  peat  and  sand,  with  a  little  powdered  charcoal  added. 


THE    NURSERY-LIST  359 

Plunge  the  pots  in  a  bed  with  70°  to  75°  bottom  heat,  shading  them 
from  the  sun.  It  is  best  to  inclose  them  in  tight  frame  to  avoid 
drafts. 

Melia  (China-Berry.    Pride  of  India).     Meliaceaa;. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  and  sometimes  by 
cuttings  of  growing  wood  under  glass.  The  Texas  umbrella  tree 
{M.  Azederach  var.  umhraculiformis)  reproduces  itself  from  seed  with 
great  regularity. 

Melianthus.     Melianthacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  cuttings  under  glass. 

Melicocca  (Genip.    Spanish  Lime).     Sapindacece. 

Increased  by  seeds ;  and  by  ripened  cuttings  in  sand  under  glass. 

Meliosma.     Sabiaceos. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe ;  also  by  layers  and 
cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood  under  glass. 

Melon,  Muskmelon  {Cucumis  Melo).   Cucurbit acece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand.  In  the 
North  they  are  often  started  under  glass  in  pots  or  pieces  of  inverted 
sods  or  in  berry  boxes,  so  that  the  plants  may  be  transferred  to  the 
open  without  check  or  injury.   Frost-tender  annual  vines. 

Melothria.     Cucurbit  acecB. 

Easily  raised  from  seeds  sown  in  heat  or  planted  in  open  ground 
when  weather  is  warm. 

Menispermum   (Moonseed).     Menisperviacece. 

Propagated  readily  by  seeds  stratified  and  sown  in  spring  or 
planted  as  soon  as  ripe ;  also  by  division  and  cuttings  in  spring. 

Mentha  (Mint).     LabiatoB. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  and  division  of  rootstocks ;  some  kinds 
produce  stolons  or  runners.  Cuttings  of  the  rootstocks  of  pepper- 
mint may  be  planted  directly  in  the  field. 

Mentzelia.     Loasacece. 

Usually  treated  as  flower-garden  annuals  (often  under  the  name 
of  bartonia),  the  seed  being  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand. 

Meratia  (Chimonanthus).   CalycanthacecB. 

Propagated  by  layering  in  autumn  and  seeds  in  spring,  as  for 
calycanthus. 


360  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Mertensia  (Lungwort).    Boraginacew. 

Seeds  are  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  or  the  following  spring.  Established 
plants  may  be  divided,  although  this  is  not  advisable. 

Mesembryanthemum  (Fig-Marigold.     Ice-Plant).    Aizoaceae. 

Propagated  easily  by  seeds  sown  under  glass ;  by  pieces  cut  off 
and  laid  in  the  sun  two  or  three  days  and  then  put  in  sand  as 
cuttings.  The  common  ice-plant  {M.  crystallinum)  is  grown  as  an 
annual  from  seeds. 

Mespilus  (Medlar).     Rosaceoe. 

Stocks  are  grown  from  stratified  seeds,  and  the  plant  may  be 
worked  on  these,  the  thorn  and  the  quince.  Seeds  sometimes  lie 
dormant  until  the  second  vear. 

Metrosideros  (Bottle-Brush).     Myrfacece. 

Seeds  and  cuttings.  The  florist's  plants  so  named  are  increased 
by  cuttings  of  the  young  growth  in  early  spring,  set  out  in  good  soil 
at  the  end  of  May. 

Michelia.     Magnoliaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  cuttings  of  ripened  wood  in  summer 
or  fall,  in  sand  under  glass,  one  or  two  leaves  being  left  on.  Seeds 
are  handled  as  in  magnolia,  to  which  the  species  are  often  referred. 

Miconia,  or  Cyanophyllum.     Melasfomacece. 

Increased  by  seed  ;  by  cuttings  or  eyes  of  firm  wood  in  sand,  with 
bottom  heat  and  shaded  from  the  sun ;  also  by  ringing  the  tops  of 
old  plants  and  covering  with  sphagnum  moss ;  when  roots  appear, 
sever  from  the  old  plant  and  pot  on. 

Mignonette  {Reseda  odorata).     Resedaceoe. 

Grown  from  seeds,  which  may  be  started  indoors  in  spring  or 
sown  in  the  open  where  the  plants  are  to  remain.  For  florist's  use  as 
a  crop  for  winter  and  spring  and  early  summer  bloom  under  glass, 
the  seeds  are  started  for  succession  early  in  July,  August  and 
September.  Plants  of  the  September  sowing  should  bloom  till  the 
following  midsummer  and  supply  seed  for  resowing.  Seeds  are 
usually  sown  on  the  benches  where  the  plants  are  to  bloom,  several 
of  them  dropped  at  points  about  6  by  8  inches  ;  all  but  two  to  four 
are  removed  by  thinning.  The  mignonette  is  annual,  usually 
classed  among  the  hardy  kinds. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  361 

Milla.     LiliacecB. 
Increased  by  seeds,  bulbels  (oflFsets)  and  by  division. 

Millet  (species  of  Panicum  and  of  Setaria  or  Chsetochloa,  and  of 
other  genera).  Graminece. 
Annual  hardy  forage  grasses  grown  from  seed,  usually  sown  in 
summer  for  fall  harvesting  or  feed.  Barnyard  millet  usually 
requires  1  to  2  pecks  of  seed  to  the  acre ;  foxtail  and  proso,  2  to  3 
pecks ;  German,  1  to  1 J  pecks. 

Miltonia.     Orchidacece. 
Increased  by  dividing  the  pseudobulbs.    See  Orchids,  page  372. 

Mimosa  (Sensitive  Plant).     LeguminoscB. 

Increased  by  seeds  sown  indoors  and  by  cuttings  of  rather  firm 
shoots  in  sandy  soil  under  glass.  The  common  M.  pudica  grows 
readily  from  seeds,  sown  under  heat  or  in  warm  weather. 

Mimulus  (Monkey-Flower.     Musk-Plant).    ScrojjhulariacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  from  January  to  x\pril.  A  mixture  of  loam, 
leaf-mold  and  sand  in  equal  parts  is  good ;  keep  in  a  temperature 
of  60°  until  germination.    Also  increased  by  division,  and  cuttings. 

Mirabilis  (Marvel  of  Peru.   Four-O'clock).     NydaginacecB. 

Raised  from  seeds,  sown  in  spring  either  under  cover  or  outdoors, 
usuallv  the  latter. 

Miscanthus   (Eulalia).     GraviinecB. 

Propagation  by  seed  and  division  of  the  clumps.  The  variegated 
forms  of  M.  sinensis  are  increased  by  division. 

Moluccella.     Labiatw. 

Grown  from  seeds,  started  indoors  in  February  and  March  and 
transplanted  in  May.  M.  Jaevis,  the  shell-flower,  may  be  sown  in  the 
open  where  seasons  are  long. 

Momordica.     CucurbitacecB. 

Raised  from  seeds  sown  in  heat  early  in  spring,  or  in  the  open 
in  the  South. 

Monarda.     Labiatw. 

Propagated  by  division  of  the  roots  in  fall ;  also  by  seeds,  as  for 
other  herbaceous  perennials. 


362  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Monstera.     AracecB. 

Easily  increased  by  seeds  and  by  cuttings  of  the  stem.  For 
greenhouse  culture,  place  cutting  in  3-inch  pot  in  mixture  of  sand, 
peat  and  leaf-mold,  plunge  pot  in  warm  propagating-bed  and 
cover  with  glass.  When  new  roots  form,  place  on  bench  in  house 
with  night  temperature  of  55°  to  70°  and  80°  to  85°  on  bright  days. 
See  AraccGB,  page  239. 

Montia.     PortulacaceoB. 

Grown  from  seed  sown  in  spring  and  summer  where  the  plants 
are  to  stand. 

Moraea.     Iridacece. 

Propagation  by  corms  and  their  offsets.   See  Iridarew,  page  339. 

Morus :     Mulberry. 

Muehlenbeckia.     Polyganacece. 

Propagated  usually  by  cuttings  under  glass  in  early  summer; 
also  by  seeds  when  obtainable. 

Mulberry  (Morus  alba,  M.  nigra,  M.  rubra,  etc.).     Moraceoe. 

New  kinds  are  produced  by  seeds,  which  should  be  handled  in  the 
same  way  as  small-fruit  seeds.  Named  varieties  are  multiplied  by 
cuttings  of  the  root,  or  of  mature  wood,  and  sometimes  by  layers. 
They  may  be  cion-budded  in  the  spring.  In  the  South,  cuttings 
of  the  Downing  mulberry  are  used  for  stocks. 

The  common  white  mulberry  was  formerly  used  as  a  stock  for 
named  varieties,  but  Russian  mulberry  seedlings  are  now  much 
employed.  The  stocks  may  be  top-worked  outdoors  (as  explained 
above)  or  root-grafted  in  the  house.  The  fancy  varieties  are  com- 
monly crown-worked,  in  the  house  in  winter,  the  stocks  being 
grown  in  pots  or  boxes  for  the  purpose.  They  are  then  kept  under 
glass  until  the  weather  permits  them  outdoors.  By  this  method 
choice  specimen  trees  are  procured,  but  they  are  readily  handled 
by  cheaper  methods.  The  weeping  and  other  ornamental  kinds 
are  worked  upon  the  Russian  mulberry. 

Musa  (Banana.  Plantain-Tree).     MusacecB. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  heat  during  spring.  Suckers  are  used  for 
those  species  which  produce  them.  Many  of  the  species  do  not 
produce  seeds  freely,  and  suckers  must  be  relied  on.  These  suckers 
are  taken  from  the  middle  of  February  to  April  1st,  planted  in  a 
compost  of  fibrous  loam  three  parts,  well-decayed  cow-manure 


THE    NURSERY-LIST         '  363 

one  part,  sand  and  bone-meal ;  keep  in  a  close  and  humid  atmosphere. 
Musa  Ensete  is  propagated  by  seeds  started  in  heat.    vSee  Banana. 

Muscari  (Grape  Hyacinth).   Liliacece. 

Seeds  and  bulb  offsets  are  usually  produced  freely  and  provide 
easy  means  of  increase. 

Mushroom  {Agaricus  campcstris).     Agaricaceae. 

Grown  from  "  spawn,"  which  is  the  mycelium  of  the  fungus 
grown  in  a  mass  or  "  brick"  of  earth  and  manure.  Break  up  the 
commercial  spawn  into  pieces  about  as  large  as  a  hen's  egg,  and 
plant  it  2  or  3  inches  deep  in  drills  or  holes,  using  from  \  to  1 
pound  of  spawn  to  each  square  yard  of  bed. 

Various  methods  are  employed  for  making  the  spawn,  but  the 
essentials  of  them  all  are  that  the  body  of  the  brick  shall  be  com- 
posed of  a  porous  and  light  material,  which  can  be  compressed  into 
a  compact  mass ;  fresh  mycelium  must  be  communicated  to  this 
mass,  and  then  a  mild  heat  must  be  applied,  until  the  whole  mass 
is  permeated  by  the  mycelium.  The  mass  should  be  kept  in  heat 
until  the  whole  of  it  assumes  a  somewhat  cloudy  look,  but  not 
until  the  threads  of  the  mycelium  can  be  seen.  Ordinarily,  fresh 
horse-manure,  cow-manure  and  good  loam  are  mixed  together  in 
about  equal  proportions,  enough  water  being  added  to  render  the 
material  of  the  consistency  of  mortar.  It  is  then  spread  upon  the 
floor  or  in  large  vats,  until  sufficiently  dry  to  be  cut  into  bricks. 
When  these  are  tolerably  well  dried,  mycelium  from  a  mushroom 
bed  or  from  other  bricks  is  inserted  in  the  side  of  each  brick.  A  bit 
of  spawn  about  the  size  of  a  small  walnut  is  thus  inserted,  and  the 
hole  is  plugged  up.  The  bricks  are  now  placed  in  a  mild  covered 
hotbed,  with  a  bottom  heat  of  55°  to  65°,  and  left  there  until  the 
clouded  appearance  indicates  that  the  mycelium  has  extended 
throughout  the  mass. 

Soil  from  a  good  mushroom  bed  is  sometimes  used  to  sow  new 
beds,  in  place  of  commercial  spawn. 

Old  clumps  of  mushrooms  may  be  allowed  to  become  dry,  and 
they  may  then  be  mixed  into  a  bed.  The  spores  may  then  stock  the 
soil  and  produce  a  new  crop,  although  this  method  is  not  reliable. 
The  full-grown  mushroom  may  be  laid  on  white  paper  until  the 
spores  are  discharged,  and  these  spores  may  then  be  mixed  into  the 
earth. 

Spawn  is  now  made  from  reliable  cultures  and  the  dilheulties  of 


364  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

mushroom-growing  have  been  much  reduced.  Care  should  be  taken 
to  purchase  only  fresh  spawn. 

Mussaenda.     RubiacecB. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  young  growth  in  spring.  See  Rubiaceoe. 

Mustard  (Brassica  or  Sinapis  species).      Cruciferoe. 

Seeds  grow  quickly,  sown  directly  in  the  open  early  in  spring. 

Myosotis  (Forget-me-not).     BoraginaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  in  spring  indoors  or  in  the  garden.  The 
perennials  also  by  division  in  spring.  The  florist's  forget-me-not 
should  be  sown  in  spring,  summer  or  early  fall  for  succession  of 
bloom  in  winter  and  spring. 

Myrica  (Bay berry.  Sweet  Gale.  Wax  Myrtle.  Candleberry).  Myri- 
cacecB. 
Hardy  species  are  propagated  mostly  by  seeds,  from  which  the 
pulp  has  been  removed  ;  sow  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  stratify.  Layers  and 
divisions  may  also  be  employed,  also  suckers.  The  greenhouse  species 
are  increased  mostly  by  green  cuttings.    Fig.  93. 

Myriophyllum  (Parrot's  Feather).      Haloragidaceoe. 

Propagated  by  long  cuttings  inserted  in  the  earth  or  mud  of  the 
aquarium  or  pond. 

Myristica  (Nutmeg).     MyristicaceoB. 

Seeds  are  employed,  started  in  pots  or  bamboo  joints  so  that  the 
tap-root  will  not  be  disturbed  in  the  transplanting.  The  nutmeg 
may  also  be  started  from  cuttings  of  ripened  wood  under  glass. 

Myrrhis  (Sweet  Cicely  or  Myrrh).      UvibelliferoB. 

Increased  by  divisions  and  by  seeds  sown  in  spring  or  autumn. 
Myrsiphyllum :     Asparagus  asparagoides,  page  245. 

Myrtus  (Myrtle).     MyrtaceGB. 

Grown  from  seeds,  when  they  can  be  obtained.  Readily  propa- 
gated by  cuttings  of  firm  shoots  under  glass.  Not  to  be  confounded 
with  the  periwinkle  (vinca),  which  is  sometimes  called  myrtle. 


Naegelia.     GesneriaceoB. 

Seeds  are  seldom  employed.  Propagation  is  mostly  by 
potting  the  runners  in  spring  or  summer  in  a  compost  of  peat,  leat 
soil  and  a  little  loam.   Cuttings  of  young  shoots,  or  mature  leaves, 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  365 

will  also  root  readily.     The  treatment  for  achimines  applies    in 
general.     See  GesneriacecB,  page  318. 

Nandina.      Berheridaceoe. 
Increased  by  seeds. 

Narcissus    (Daffodil.    Jonquil.     Chinese  Sacred  Lily).      AmaryU 
lidacecB. 
New  varieties  are  grown  from  seeds,  which  give  flowering  })ull)3 
in  three  or  four  years.    Ordinarily  increased  by  bulbels  or  offsets 
from  the  bulbs,  which  usually  flower  the  second  year. 

Nectarine :    Peach. 

Negundo  (Box  Elder).     AceraceGe. 

Grows  readily  from  seeds ;  also  by  cuttings  of  mature  shoots,  as 
for  grapes.    See  Acer. 

Nelumbo,  Nelumbium  (Water  Chinkapin.  Lotus.  Water  Bean). 
NymphoeacecB. 
Propagation  by  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in  shallow  pans  of 
water  in  the  garden,  or  if  sown  in  ponds  they  may  be  incorporated 
in  a  ball  of  clay  and  dropped  into  the  water.  The  seeds  of  some 
species  are  very  hard,  and  germination  is  facilitated  if  they  are 
carefully  filed  or  bored.  Sections  of  the  rhizomes  may  be  used 
instead ;  they  should  always  be  covered  with  water,  at  least  a  foot 
or  two  deep,  if  outdoors.  The  false  lotus  or  sacred  bean  {X.  riu- 
cifera)  may  be  increased  by  division  and  seeds.  The  roots  or  tubers 
should  not  be  transplanted  until  they  show  signs  of  young  growth. 
If  they  are  disturbed  before  growth  commences,  the  tubers  should 
be  kept  in  a  warm  place  where  growth  will  begin  at  once. 

Nemastylis.     Iridacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds    and  by  bulbels. 

Nemesia.     Scrophidariaceas. 

Flower-garden  plants  growing  readily  from  seeds,  which  may  be 
started  indoors  or  sown  directly  in  the  open. 

Nemopanthus  (Mountain  Holly).     AquifoUacece. 

Handled  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  or  else 
r^tratified  ;  also  by  division  of  old  plants  and  by  greenwood  cuttings 
under  glass. 


366  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Nemophila.      HydrophyllacecB. 
Annuals  grown  from  seeds. 

Nepenthes  (Pitcher-Plant).      NepenthaceGB. 

Grown  from  seeds  and  cuttings.  The  seeds  must  have  good 
drainage,  uniform  conditions  and  strong  heat  (80°  to  85°).  Sow 
on  a  soil  of  peat  and  fine  sphagnum,  and  keep  in  a  moist  close  frame. 
Cuttings  are  usually  struck  in  moss  in  a  frame  having  strong  bot- 
tom heat.  A  good  plan  is  to  fill  a  small  pot  with  moss,  invert  it, 
and  insert  the  cutting  through  the  hole  in  the  bottom.  The  pot 
then  keeps  the  moss  uniform  in  temperature  and  moisture.  The  pot 
is  broken  when  the  plant  is  removed.  When  potting  off,  use  very 
coarse  material.  Cuttings  in  a  close  frame  in  sharp  clean  sand, 
kept  thoroughly  moist  and  given  two  months  or  more  to  root,  will 
give  new  cuttings. 

Nepeta.     Labiatce. 

Grown  readily  from  seeds,  the  perennials  also  by  division. 

Nephelium :  Lite  hi. 

Nephrolepis.     Polypodiaceoe. 

Propagated  by  runners.    See  Ferns,  page  312. 

Nerine  (Guernsey  Lily).      AmaryllidaceoB. 

Commonlv  mcreased  bv  means  of  bulbels  that  form  about  the 
mother  bulbs  ;  also  by  seeds  when  obtainable. 

Nerium  (Oleander).     ApocynacecF. 

Propagated  by  layers,  but  mostly  grown  from  cuttings  of  strong 
firm  shoots,  in  a  close  frame,  or  rooted  in  bottles  of  water  and  after- 
wards potted  in  soil. 

Nertera  (Bead-Plant).     Rubiacew. 

Grown  from  seeds  and  by  division;  and  cuttings  usually  strike 
readily. 

Nicandra.     Solanacew. 

Grown  from  seeds,  sown  in  the  open  border,  or  under  glass  in 
the  North. 

Nicotiana.     Solanaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  started  under  glass  or  in  a  carefully  pre- 
pared seed-bed ;  the  ornamental  species  sometimes  by  cuttings. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  367 

N.  alata  var.  grandiflora  ( A^  affinis  of  gardens)  propagates  by  root- 
buttings.    Tobacco  is  handled  essentially  like  tomato  plants. 

Nidularium.     BromeliacecB. 

Propagation  by  suckers.  These  should  be  placed  in  small  pots  in 
compost  of  light  porous  material  with  broken  crocks  or  charcoal 
added  for  drainage.  Place  under  frame  with  bottom  heat  and  a 
humid  atmosphere.    See  BromeliacecB,  page  259. 

Nierembergia.     Solanacece. 

Grown  from  seeds,  which  are  sold  by  seedsmen.  Cuttings  of  firm 
shoots  in  fall  are  also  used.  N.  rivularis  is  most  readily  increased 
by  dividing  the  creeping  stem  where  it  has  rooted  at  the  nodes. 

Nigella  (Fennel-Flower    Love-in-a-Mist).     Ranunculaceoe. 
Annuals,  grown  readily  from  seeds  sown  early  in  the  open. 

Nolana.      Nolanacece. 

Raised  from  seeds  sown  in  the  open  border ;  for  early  blooming 
they  should  be  started  under  glass. 

Nolina.     LiliaceoB. 

Increased  by  seeds  imported  from  their  native  country ;  by 
cuttings,  when  obtainable ;  usually,  however,  by  offsets. 

Nuphar.      Nymphosacece. 

Propagated  the  same  as  nelumbo  and  nymphiea,  which  see. 
See  also  Nymphoeaceae. 

Nyctocereus.     Cactacece. 

For  propagation,  see  Cacti,  page  261. 

Nymphaea,  Castalia  (Water  Lily.     Lotus).      NymphcpacecF. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  are  rolled  up  in  a  ball  of  clay  and 
dropped  into  a  pond,  or  sown  in  pots  which  are  then  submerged  in 
shallow  water,  either  indoors  or  out.  Usually  increased  by  portion  ^ 
of  the  rootstocks,  which  are  sunk  in  the  pond  and  held  by  stones,  or 
the  tender  species  placed  inside,  in  pans  of  water.  Some  species 
produce  tubers  on  the  rootstocks,  which  are  used  for  propagation. 

Nymphaeaceae.     Water  Lilies. 

All  plants  belonging  to  this  family  are  readily  increased  from  seeds. 
The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  pots  or  boxes  of  loamy  soil  and  sand, 
submerged  in  a  tank  or  tub  of  water,  and  placed  in  a  sunny  position. 


368  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Seeds  should  not  be  kept  too  long  out  of  water.  Also  propagated  by 
dividing  the  rhizomes,  and  by  tubers. 

Nymphoides,  Limnanthemum  (Floating-Heart).     GenfianacecB. 
Increased  by  division  of  the  plants. 

Nyssa  (Pepperidge.  Sour  Gum.  Tupelo).    Nyssacew. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  or  else  stratified ;  they 
usually  lie  dormant  the  first  year.  Layers  are  sometimes  employed, 
but  rooting  is  slow. 


Oak :  Quercus. 

Ochna.     Ochnacece. 

In  summer  or  autumn,  cuttings  may  be  made  of  firm  or  half- 
ripened  shoots. 

Ocimum :  Basil. 

Odontoglossum.     Orchidaceoe. 

Propagation  by  division  and  by  seeds.   See  Orchids,  page  372. 

CEnothera  (Evening  Primrose.  Sundrop).     OnagraceoB. 

Grown  readily  from  seeds,  some  species  blooming  the  first  year 
and  others  not  till  the  second.   Perennial  kinds  may  be  divided. 

Okra,  Gumbo  {Hibiscus  esculentus).     MalvaceoB. 

Raised  from  seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand,  or  often 
started  in  pots  in  the  North. 

Olea.     OleaccGB. 

The  ornamental  species  are  grown  from  cuttings  of  mature  shoots, 
either  under  frames  or  in  the  border,  and  also  by  seeds.  For  propa- 
gation of  0.  europaea,  see  Olive. 

Olive  {Olea  europcea).  Oleaceoe. 

The  olive  is  grown  in  large  quantities  from  seed,  especially  in 
Europe.  The  pulp  is  removed  by  maceration  or  by  treating  with 
potash.  The  pits  should  be  cracked  or  else  softened  by  soaking  in 
strong  lye,  otherwise  they  will  lie  dormant  for  one  or  two  years. 

Cuttings  of  any  kind  will  grow.  Limbs,  either  young  or  old,  1  or  2 
inches  in  diameter,  and  from  1  to  2  feet  long,  are  often  stuck  into 
the  ground  where  the  trees  are  to  grow,  or  they  are  sometimes  used 
in  the  nursery.  Green  cuttings,  with  the  leaves  on,  are  often  used, 
being  handled  in  frames  or  in  boxes  of  sand.  Chips  from  old  trunks, 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  369 

if  kept  warm  and  moist,  will  grow.  The  olive  is  often  propagated  by 
truncheons  of  trunks.  A  trunk  2  or  3  inches  in  diameter  is  cut  into 
foot  or  two-feet  lengths,  and  each  length  is  split  through  the  middle. 
Each  half  is  planted  horizontally,  bark  up,  4  or  5  inches  deep,  in 
warm  moist  soil.  The  sprouts  which  arise  may  be  allowed  to  grow, 
or  they  may  be  made  into  green  cuttings.  Knaurs  (see  page  107) 
are  sometimes  used.  The  olive  can  be  budded  or  grafted  in  a  variety 
of  ways.  Twig-budding  or  prong-budding  and  plate-  or  H-budding 
(Figs.  146,  147,  149)  give  admirable  results,  and  are  proba})ly  the 
best  methods.  Twig-budding  is  the  insertion  of  a  small  growing 
twig  which  is  cut  from  the  branch  in  just  the  way  in  which  shield- 
buds  are  cut.  (Fig.  146.)  Side-grafting  is  also  successful.  (Fig.  187.) 
In  California,  owing  to  the  uncertainty  of  getting  a  good  stand 
of  cuttings  of  green  wood  and  the  slowness  of  rooting  cuttings 
of  large  wood,  the  practice  of  raising  olive  seedlings  and  budding 
on  them  has  become  more  popular.  After  the  pulp  is  removed,  the 
extreme  point  of  the  pit  or  stone  is  cut  off  with  ordinary  pruning 
shears,  when  the  seed  germinates  very  readily.  This  method  insures 
a  good  stand  without  injury  to  the  kernel.  Ordinary  shield-budding 
may  be  performed  any  time  in  the  year  when  dormant  buds  may  be 
obtained  and  the  seedling  is  in  condition  to  receive  them.  The  root 
system  is  better  under  this  method  of  propagation. 

Omphalodes.     Boraginaceoe. 

Handled  by  seeds,  division  of  the  plant  and  of  the  runners  of  some 
species. 

Oncidium.     Orchidaceae. 

Propagated  by  division  or  notching  the  rhizome  between  the 
pseudobulbs  just  before  the  growing  season.  In  some  species 
detachable  buds  are  produced  in  the  inflorescence,  and  these  give 
young  plants.     See  Orchids,  page  372. 

Onion  {Allium  Cepa  and  A.  fishdosum).     LiliacecB. 

Onions  are  mostly  grown  from  seeds,  which  must  be  sown  as  early 
as  possible  in  spring ;  or  in  the  South  they  may  be  sown  in  autumn. 

They  are  also  grown  from  ''  tops,"  which  are  bulblets  borne  in 
the  flower-cluster.  These  are  planted  in  the  spring,  or  in  the  fall  in 
mild  climates,  and  they  soon  grow  into  large  bulbs. 

"  Sets"  are  also  used.  These  are  very  small  onions,  and  when 
planted  they  simply  complete  their  growth  into  large  bulbs.  Sets 
are  procured  by  sowing  seeds  very  thickly  in  poor  soil.  The  bulbs 
2b 


370  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

soon  crowd  each  other,  and  growth  is  checked,  causing  them  to 
ripen  prematurely.  Good  seta  should  not  be  more  than  a  half  inch 
in  diameter.  Very  small  onions  which  are  selected  from  the 
general  crop  —  called  *'  rare-ripes"  —  are  sometimes  used  as  sets, 
but  they  are  usually  too  large  to  give  good  results. 

Some  onions  —  the  "  multiplier"  or  "potato  onions"  —  in- 
crease themselves  by  division  of  the  bulb.  The  small  bulb,  which  is 
planted  in  the  spring,  splits  up  into  several  distinct  parts,  each  one 
of  which  will  multiply  itself  in  the  same  manner  when  planted  the 
following  year. 

Ophiopogon.     Liliacece. 

Propagated  by  division.   See  LiliacecB,  page  349. 
Oplismenus.     GraminecB. 

Propagated  by  divisions  of  the  rooting  stems ;  seeds,  when 
obtainable. 

Opuntia  (Prickly  Pear.     Indian  Fig).     CactaceoB. 

Seeds  grow  readily,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in  ordinary  sandy  soil, 
either  in  the  house  or  outdoors.  The  joints  or  pads  root  freely  if 
laid  on  sand.  It  is  customary  to  allow  these  cuttings  to  dry  several 
days  before  planting  them.    See  also  Cacti,  page  261. 

Orach  {Atriplex  hortensis) .    ChenopodiaceoB. 

Raised  from  seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand. 

Orange    {Citnis   Aurantium,   C.  sinensis   and   others).      Rutaceas. 
(H.  H.  Hume.) 

The  orange,  in  common  with  other  fruits  of  the  genus  Citrus,  is 
generally  propagated  by  w^orking  on  orange  seedlings  or  seedlings 
of  related  species.  The  stocks  are  grown  from  seeds  of  sour  orange, 
sweet  orange,  rough  lemon,  grapefruit  and  Poncirus  trifoliata.  In 
the  orange  districts  of  the  world,  sweet  orange  stocks  have  almost 
wholly  disappeared  from  use  in  nursery  practice  owing  to  their 
susceptibility  to  various  root  and  trunk  diseases. 

Sour  orange  stocks  are  most  commonly  used,  and  except  for  special 
soil  or  climatic  conditions,  are  to  be  preferred.  Poncirus  frifoliata  is 
adapted  to  colder  sections  and  heavy  soils  and  its  use  has  greatly 
extended  orange  culture  into  the  colder  regions ;  this  is  the  tri- 
foliolate  orange,  commonly  known  as  Citrus  trifoliata.  Rough 
lemon  stock  is  suited  to  warmer  climates  and  to  soils  deficient  in 
plant-food.  Grapefruit  stock  is  sometimes  employed  in  special 
cases  for  rather  low  lands. 


THE    NURSERY-LIST  371 

Sour  orange  seeds  will  run  about  2100  to  the  quart,  rough  lemon 
about  6500  to  the  quart,  grapefruit  about  1400,  and  Poncirus 
trifoliata  about  2600  to  the  quart.  Sour  orange  seed  weighs  32 
pounds  to  the  bushel  after  slight  drying.  It  is  usual  to  estimate 
double  the  number  of  seeds  for  the  seedlings  desired. 

Citrus  seeds  are  easily  spoiled  by  drying,  the  eotyledons  separate 
and  they  are  then  worthless.  They  can  be  stored  for  several  weeks 
or  even  months  if  packed  in  a  closed  container  or  box  in  pulverized 
charcoal.  They  should  be  planted  immediately  after  removing  from 
the  seed,  or  properly  packed  and  examined  from  time  to  time  to  see 
that  they  do  not  dry  out. 

In  citrus  nursery  districts,  the  seeds  are  sown  in  winter  or  early 
spring,  either  in  the  open  or  under  slat  shades.  The  young  seedlings 
are  easily  injured  by  hot  sun  and  dry  winds,  and  therefore  should 
be  well  started  before  spring  is  far  advanced,  if  planted  in  the  open. 
The  young  seedlings  of  citrus  are  sometimes  killed  })ack  to  the 
ground,  and  when  so  injured  do  not  sprout  out  again,  Ijut  those  of 
poncirus  will  start  again  from  buds  on  the  tiny  stems,  below  tlie 
ground.  The  seed  is  sown  in  rows  much  as  apple  or  garden  seeds 
are  sown,  at  the  rate  of  about  100  to  the  vard  of  row.  Clean  cultiva- 
tion,  applications  of  commercial  fertilizer  and  plenty  of  water  are 
accessary  for  the  production  of  good  sturdy  seedlings  The  use  of 
stable  manure  as  a  fertilizer  is  not  advisable  because  of  increased 
danger  from  damping-off  fungi. 

After  one  or  two  years  in  the  seed-bed,  the  seedlings  are  trans- 
planted to  the  nursery  rows.  The  rows  are  usually  spaced  3^ 
or  4  feet  apart  and  the  seedlings  are  set  1  foot  apart  in  the  rows, 
giving  about  10,000  seedlings  to  the  acre.  Roadways  are  left  at 
convenient  intervals  for  the  passage  of  teams  and  wagons.  Trans- 
planting from  seed-beds  to  nursery  rows  is  usually  done  in  early 
spring  or  during  summer,  if  suitable  rainy  weather  prevails  or  if 
water  is  available  for  irrigating. 

Shield-budding,  with  buds  about  1|  inches  long,  is  the 
method  employed.  Sometimes  the  T-incision  is  inverted  and 
the  bud  is  inserted  from  below.  This  is  the  method  commonly 
followed  in  Florida.  The  buds  are  usually  wrapped  with  waxed 
cloth,  the  bud  and  all  incisions  being  covered.  Tlie  wraps  are 
commonly  left  on  from  ten  days  to  two  weeks  depending  on 
growth  and  weather  conditions.  The  seedlings  are  dormant-budded 
just  before  growth  ceases  in  autumn  or  in  early  spring.  Better 
growth  can  be  secured  from  dormant  buds  as  they  have  the  ads  an- 


372  ^  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

tage  of  the  full  growing  season.  In  the  colder  sections  where  there 
is  danger  of  dormant  buds  being  injured,  they  are  often  protected 
by  banking  with  earth.  In  spring  as  soon  as  the  bark  will  slip, 
stocks  in  which  the  buds  have  died  are  rebudded.  For  this  work 
bud-sticks  of  the  previous  season's  growth  are  cut,  the  leaves  are 
removed,  and  the  sticks  packed  in  sawdust  or  sphagnum  until 
needed. 

In  spring,  the  tops  of  the  dormant-budded  seedlings  are  cut  off 
close  back  to  the  inserted  buds.  In  some  sections,  the  tops  are  headed 
back  or  lopped  and  later  removed  entirely,  but  as  this  entails  ad- 
ditional work  it  should  be  avoided  if  growth  is  not  too  vigorous. 
Sprouts  must  be  removed  from  the  stocks  from  time  to  time.  i\bout 
the  time  the  buds  start  to  grow,  a  stake  is  set  at  each  one  and  to 
this  the  bud  is  tied  from  time  to  time,  throughout  the  summer,  as 
they  grow.  This  serves  the  double  purpose  of  saving  the  buds  from 
breaking  away  from  the  stocks  and  of  keeping  them  straight. 

For  propagating  oranges  under  glass,  seedlings  of  grapefruit  or 
orange  may  be  used,  although  the  best  stock  for  pot  and  tub  plants 
is  Poncirus  (or  Citrus)  trifoliata. 

Orange  trees  of  almost  any  size  may  be  top-worked  to  other 
varieties  either  by  budding  or  grafting  by  the  usual  methods. 
Sometimes  the  tops  are  cut  off  or  lopped,  shoots  are  then  thrown 
out  and  in  these  buds  are  inserted.  Buds  may  be  inserted  in  large 
branches  and  after  uniting  forced  into  growth  by  lopping  or  cutting 
back  the  branches. 

Orchids.     Orchidaceae. 

The  method  of  propagating  orchids  must  in  each  species  be 
adapted  to  the  habit  and  mode  of  growth.  The  easiest  and  safest 
plan  for  the  greater  number  of  kinds  is  by  division,  but  seeds, 
cuttings,  layers,  offsets,  and  very  rarely  roots,  are  also  utilized. 
It  is  important  that  artificial  means  of  increase  should  be  adopted 
only  when  the  individual  plants  are  in  robust  health.  With  many 
orchids  the  struggle  of  life  under  the  unnatural  conditions  of  domes- 
tication is  necessarily  severe,  and  any  operation  which  transforms 
one  weak  plant  into  two  or  more  weaker  ones  is  to  be  deprecated. 
In  cases  in  which  the  onlv  method  available  necessitates  disturbance 
at  the  roots,  consideration  must  be  paid  to  the  constitution  of  the 
species,  for  some  orchids,  even  when  perfectly  healthy,  strongly 
resent  interference.  Many  of  the  orchids  are  really  not  propagated 
under  cultivation,  but  are  grown  from  stock  newly  imported  from 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  373 

the  wild  ;  when  the  plants  fail,  they  are  discarded  and  new  importa- 
tions substituted. 

Seeds.  —  In  no  class  of  cultivated  plants  is  propagation  by  seeds 
more  difficult  and  tedious  than  it  is  with  orchids.  In  all  cases, 
fertilization  must  be  performed  by  hand.  In  England,  the  length  of 
time  required  for  the  capsules  to  ripen  varies  from  three  months  to 
a  year.  Good  seeds  form  a  very  small  proportion  of  the  whole, 
and  it  occasionally  happens  that  the  contents  of  a  capsule  will  not 
produce  a  single  plant.  This,  however,  as  well  as  the  difficulty 
experienced  in  England  in  rearing  plants  to  the  flowering  stage,  is 
primarily  due  to  the  deficiency  of  sunlight,  and  in  such  a  bright 
climate  as  that  of  the  United  States  would  not  be  likely  to  occur. 
Various  methods  of  sowing  are  in  vogue,  such  as  sprinkling  over 
pieces  of  wood  and  cork  or  tree-fern  stem,  and  on  the  top  of  moss 
and  peat,  in  which  established  plants  of  the  same  or  a  nearly  related 
species  are  growing.  The  last  is  probably  the  best,  but  it  is  always 
advisable  to  try  several  methods.  Of  course,  the  material  on  which 
the  seeds  are  scattered  must  always  be  kept  moist  and  shaded. 
The  period  between  germination  and  the  development  of  the  first 
root  is  the  most  critical  in  the  life  of  a  seedling  orchid.  After  they 
are  of  sufficient  size  to  handle,  they  are  potted  off  into  tiny  pots, 
and  as  they  gain  strength,  are  given  treatment  approximating  that 
of  adult  plants. 

The  above  represents  the  former  gardener's  method  in  the  growing 
of  orchids  from  seed.  At  the  best  it  was  inexact  and  unreliable. 
It  is  now  thought  that  the  free  germination  of  orchid  seeds  requires 
the  presence  of  the  root  fungus  that  is  associated  with  the  growing 
plant.  The  exacter  method  now  employed  is  described  as  follows 
by  Hasselbring  in  the  Standard  Cyclopedia  of  Horticulture :  '*  It  is 
absolutely  essential  that  an  association  of  the  seed  witli  the  proper 
root-fungus  be  brought  about.  In  practice,  this  has  often  been 
accomplished  by  the  sowing  of  the  seeds  on  pots  containing  the 
parent  plants.  This  method,  however,  has  many  disadvantages. 
The  plants  cannot  be  repotted  while  the  seedlings  are  growing, 
and  the  seeds  are  likely  to  be  washed  away  in  watering,  since  they 
cannot  be  readily  protected  by  a  proper  covering.  Better  suc- 
cess can  be  secured  by  the  use  of  straight-walled  glass  jars  with 
loose  glass  covers.  These  are  filled  with  finely  chopped  sphagnum, 
which  is  well  pressed  into  the  jar.  The  whole  is  then  sterilized  in  a 
steam-box  for  one  hour  on  three  successive  days  in  order  to  kill 
bacteria  and  spores  of  molds  which  are  likely  to  overrun  the  seed- 


374  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

lings.  x\fter  sterilization,  the  jars  should  be  allowed  to  stand  for  a 
few  days.  Those  in  which  molds  develop  should  be  discarded.  The 
sterile  jars  may  then  be  inoculated  with  the  root-fungus  from  the 
species  of  orchid  to  which  the  seed-plant  belongs.  For  this  purpose, 
portions  of  infected  roots  should  be  cut  into  small  pieces  with  a 
sterile  knife  and  scattered  over  the  sphagnum  seed-bed.  Great 
care  should  be  observed  at  all  times  to  avoid  the  introduction  of 
foreign  spores  from  the  air.  It  should  also  be  borne  in  mind  that 
only  the  covered  roots  contain  the  fungus,  and  that  generally  only 
the  soft  tissues  from  ^  to  1  inch  back  from  the  root-tip  are  most 
abundantly  infected.  As  soon  as  the  root-fungus  has  grown  through 
the  sphagnum,  the  seeds  should  be  sown  in  the  jars.  In  the  col- 
lection and  handling  of  the  seeds,  all  possible  precaution  should  be 
taken  to  prevent  contamination."  Recent  experience  does  not 
confirm  the  necessity  of  the  fungus  in  all  cases,  but  the  aseptic 
and  controlled  methods  of  germination  are  good. 

Division. — The  paphiopedilums  (greenhouse  cypripediums)  af- 
ford an  example  of  the  way  in  which  division  may  be  employed.  The 
soil  is  shaken  from  the  roots  and  by  the  aid  of  a  sharp  knife  the  plant 
is  severed  into  as  many  pieces  as  are  required.  It  is  always  advisable 
to  leave  one  or  more  leading  growths  to  each  portion.  This  method 
may  be  practiced  for  the  increase  of  phaius,  masdevallia,  sobralia, 
ada,  the  evergreen  section  of  calanthe,  and  all  of  similar  habit.  In 
nearly  all  those  kinds  in  which  the  pseudobulbs  are  united  by  a 
procumbent  rhizome,  such  as  occurs  in  cattleyas,  the  process  is 
slower.  It  seems  to  be  natural  for  these  plants  to  continue  year  after 
year,  producing  a  single  growth  from  the  old  pseudobulb.  To 
obtain  additional  "  leads,"  the  rhizomes  should  be  cut  through  in 
early  spring,  two  or  three  pseudobulbs  being  reserved  to  each  piece. 
A  bud  will  then  push  from  the  base  of  each  pseudobulb  nearest  the 
division,  and  a  new  lead  is  formed.  The  pieces  should  not  be  sepa- 
rated until  this  is  well  established,  and  three  years  may  sometimes 
be  required.  Lselia,  catasetum,  coelogyne,  lycaste,  cymbidium, 
zygopetalum,  odontoglossum,  oncidium,  miltonia,  and  the  like,  are 
treated  in  this  manner.     Fig.  51. 

Cuttings.  —  This  method  is  available  for  those  kinds  with  long 
jointed  stems,  like  dendrobium  and  epidendrum.  Just  before  the 
plants  begin  to  grow,  say  in  February,  the  old  pseudobulbs  are  cut 
up  into  lengths,  and  laid  on  a  moist  warm  surface,  such  as  a  pan 
of  moss  in  a  propagating-frame.  Young  offshoots  will  shortly 
appear  at  the  nodes,  and  when  large  enough  are  potted  off  with  the 


THE   NURSERY^-LIST  375 

Did  piece  attached.  This  plan  may  be  used  also  for  harkeria  and 
microstylis.  It  is  well  to  remember  that  in  any  method  of  propaga- 
tion in  which  the  pseudobulb  is  divided,  the  \i^or  of  the  y(Mmj^ 
plant  is  proportionate  to  the  amount  of  reserve  material  supplied  it. 
However  suitable  the  external  conditions  may  be  for  growth,  it  is 
for  some  time  entirely  dependent  for  sustenance  on  the  old  piece 
from  which  it  springs.  Dcndrobium  Phalcpnopsis  is  a  case  in  point. 
If  a  pseudobulb  is  cut  into,  say,  three  pieces,  it  will  take  at  least 
two  years  for  the  young  plants  to  reach  flowering  strength,  l)ut 
frequently,  by  using  the  entire  pseudobulb,  one  can  get  in  a  single 
year  a  growth  quite  as  large  as  the  old  one. 

Subsequent  handling. — The  treatment  of  young  orchids  should  be 
founded  on  what  suits  the  parents.  As  a  rule,  however,  they  require 
more  careful  nursing,  and  some  of  the  conditions  must  be  modified. 
Drought,  intense  light  and  cold  drafts  must  be  avoided.  For 
many  orchids,  especially  those  from  equatorial  regions,  where  the 
atmospheric  conditions  alternate  between  saturation  and  intense 
heat  and  dryness,  it  is  necessary,  in  order  to  induce  flowering,  that 
nature,  to  some  extent  at  least,  should  be  imitated.  ^Yith  young 
plants,  by  whatever  method  they  may  be  obtained,  the  supply  of 
water  must  only  be  reduced  in  accordance  with  the  weather  and 
season,  and  beyond  that,  no  attempt  at  resting  made.  In  cases, 
however,  in  which  plants  have  been  divided  or  made  into  cuttings,  a 
very  limited  supply  of  water  is  needed  at  first ;  but  to  prevent  ex- 
haustion, the  atmosphere  should  always  be  kept  laden  with  moisture. 

Oreocereus.     CadaceoB. 

For  propagation,  see  Cacti,  page  261. 

Oreodoxa.     Pahnacew. 

Grown  from  seeds.   See  Palms,  page  377. 

Oreopanax.     AraliaceoB. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  and  seeds,  from  January  to  March. 
Place  half -ripened  growths  of  extreme  tops  in  a  warm  propagating- 
bed  with  bottom  heat  of  80°,  cover  with  glass.  Seed  may  be  sown  in 
pans,  with  a  mixture  of  loam,  peat  and  sand  ;  cover  with  glass  and 
place  over  bottom  heat. 

Origanum  (Marjoram).     Labiatw. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  shaded  until  the  ])lants  are 
well  rooted.  For  0.  vulgare,  division  in  spring  or  early  autunm  is 
usually  practiced. 


376  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Ornithogalum  (Star  of  Bethlehem).     Liliacece. 

Commonly  increased  by  bulbels  or  offsets,  and  by  division ;  also 
by  seeds  when  they  can  be  had. 

Orobus :   Lathyrus. 

Orontium.     Araceae. 

Increased  by  division,  but  seeds  may  be  used  if  there  is  less 
haste.    See  Aracece,  page  239. 

Osmanthus  (Japan  Holly).     OleacecB. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  half -ripened  wood  in  late  summer 
under  glass,  or  by  grafting  on  osmanthus  stock,  or  on  privet.  Seeds 
are  rarely  obtainable  and  do  not  germinate  until  the  second  year. 

Osmaronia,  Nuttalia.     Rosaceae. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  stratified  or  sown  as  soon  as  ripe ;  by 
divisions ;  by  suckers  from  the  roots. 

Osmunda  (Flowering  Fern).     Osmiuidaceoe. 

Mostly  by  division;  sometimes  by  spores.     See  Ferns,  page  312. 

Ostrowskia  (Giant  Bellwort).     Campanulacece. 

Propagated  by  root-  or  top-cuttings  in  spring.  Seeds,  unless  sown 
fresh,  require  a  long  time  for  germination  and  seedlings  may  not 
mature  under  three  or  four  years. 

Ostrya  (Hop  Hornbeam).     Betulacece. 

Usually  grown  from  seeds  sown  when  ripe  or  stratified.  Also 
increased  by  layering ;  or  it  can  be  grafted.  The  European  species 
is  often  grafted  on  the  hornbeam  (carpinus). 

Othonna.     CompositoB. 

Propagated  by  pieces  of  the  stem,  treated  as  cuttings,  or  taken 
off  after  rooting  if  plant  lies  on  ground. 

Ouvirandra :  Aponogeton. 

Oxalis.     Oxalidacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  division  and  cuttings ;  the  tuberiferous 
species  are  increased  by  the  underground  tubers. 

Oxydendrum  (Sorrel-Tree).     Ericacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  handled  as  for  andromeda  and  similar  things ; 
also  by  layers,  which  often  root  with  difficulty. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  377 

Paeonia  (Peony.  Piney).     RanuncidacecB. 

Seeds,  giving  rise  to  new  varieties,  are  sown  as  soon  as  ripe.  Ahoiit 
three  years  after  germination  are  required  for  the  production  of 
bloom.  The  seedlings  seldom  rise  above  the  surface  the  first  year, 
all  their  energies  being  spent  in  the  formation  of  roots. 

The  common  herbaceous  varieties  are  oftenest  propagated  by 
division  of  the  clumps.  Each  portion  should  possess  at  least  one 
bud.   Usually  the  clumps  are  divided  in  early  autumn. 

All  woody  species  may  be  increased  by  layers  and  cuttings. 
Cuttings  are  taken  late  in  summer,  cut  to  a  heel,  and  are  handled 
in  a  frame  or  cool  greenhouse.  In  winter  they  should  be  kept 
from  freezing.  The  shrubby  species  are  often  grafted,  and  all  species 
can  be  handled  in  this  way.  The  operation  is  performed  in  late 
summer  or  early  autumn,  and  the  grafts  are  stored  in  sand  or  moss 
where  they  will  not  freeze.  The  next  spring  the}^  are  planted  out. 
The  cion  is  made  from  a  strong  short  shoot,  clestitute  of  flower 
buds,  and  is  set  on  a  piece  of  root,  as  described  on  pages  157-8. 
Some  prefer  to  cut  a  wedge-shaped  portion  from  the  side  of  the 
stock,  in  which  to  inlay  the  cion,  rather  than  to  split  the  stock  ;  but 
either  practice  is  good.  Strong  roots  of  various  varieties  or  species 
may  be  used.  The  Chinese  peony  (P.  suffruticosa) ,  P.  officinalis 
and  P.  albiflora  are  oftenest  used. 

Rare  varieties  of  the  herbaceous  species  are  sometimes  grafted  in 
latie  summer,  an  eye  of  the  given  kind  being  inserted  in  a  tuber 
from  which  all  the  eyes  have  been  removed. 

Paliurus  (Christ's  Thorn).     Rhairmaccce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  stratified  or  sown  in  autumn,  by  layers  and 
by  cuttings  of  the  roots. 

Palms.     Palmaceae. 

Palms  are  propagated  in  the  main  by  seeds ;  a  few  by  suckers 
and  division.  The  seeds  of  the  common  kinds  germinate  freely 
if  sown  in  pans  of  soil  and  placed  in  a  bottom  heat  of  80°.  Those 
that  grow  in  swamps  require  somewhat  different  treatment ;  for 
these  use  an  open  rough  soil  and  stand  the  pots  or  pans  in  saucers 
filled  with  water;  when  they  germinate,  a  regular  temperature 
both  at  the  roots  and  overhead  is  of  importance  and  the  soil  must  be 
kept  uniformly  moist  at  all  times.  In  removing  palm  seedlings 
from  the  seed-pans  or  pots,  the  roots  should  be  carefully  handled, 
for  if  broken  the  seedlings  usually  die.  Palms  are  known  in  conserxa- 
tories  and  private  collections  mostly  in  the  juvenile  stage.     The 


378  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

seeds  are  imported  by  the  dealers,  and  if  fresh  and  fully  ripe  they 
germinate  well  although  some  of  them  start  slowly.  The  period 
of  germination  runs  from  two  or  three  weeks  to  as  many  years. 
The  seeds  are  usually  started  singly  in  6-inch  pots. 

Some  of  the  species  sucker  freely  from  the  crown  as  they  mature, 
and  these  offsets  may  be  removed  and  repotted  singly.  A  few  of 
them  stool,  and  may  be  divided. 

Panax :  Ginseng,   Polyscias. 

Pancratium  and  Hymenocallis.     AmaryllidaceoB. 

Seeds,  sown  in  pots  or  pans  in  heat,  are  sometimes  employed. 
They  should  give  blooming  plants  in  two  or  three  years.  Commonly 
increased  by  offsets,  which  usually  form  freely.  Place  the  offsets 
rather  close  in  pans  in  a  light  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  leaf-mold, 
peat  and  sand,  giving  good  drainage. 

Pandanus  (Screw-Pine).     Pandanaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  suckers,  as  for  palms ;  also  by  cuttings 
of  the  young  growth  in  heat.  The  ''  seeds"  are  really  fruits,  and  if  in 
good  condition  several  plants,  one  to  ten,  are  obtainable  from  each ; 
they  should  be  separated  when  well  furnished  with  roots.  These 
seeds  are  easily  obtained  from  the  tropics,  and  are  planted  in  moist 
black  soil  in  beds  or  pots.  When  the  plants  appear,  the  little  clumps 
are  separated  and  the  plantlets  potted  off.  Suckers  often  form  freely 
on  or  near  the  crown ;  these  may  be  taken  off  and  potted  singly. 

Pandorea.     BignoniacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  greenwood  cuttings  under  glass. 

Pansy  {Viola  tricolor).     Violaceas. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  from  July  10  to  August  25  for  the 
next  year's  spring  bloom.  The  plants  may  be  carried  over  in  a 
frame,  or  in  mild  climates  left  directly  in  the  seed-bed  and  protected 
with  loose  mulch.  Sometimes  started  indoors  in  spring  or  late 
winter.  Good  plants  may  be  purchased  from  regular  growers. 
Named  varieties  may  be  multiplied  late  in  the  season  from  cuttings 
or  la  vers. 

Papaver  (Poppy).     Papaveracece. 

Increased  by  seeds  —  usually  sown  outdoors  where  plants  are  to 
stand  —  and  division.  P.  orientale  and  allied  species  are  easily 
propagated  by  root-cuttings  in  sand  under  glass  in  autumn. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  379 

Papaya,  sometimes  called  papaw;  see  Asimina.  (Carica  Papaya.) 
PapayacecB. 

As  a  greenhouse  subject,  propagated  by  cuttings  of  ripe  shoots 
in  sandy  soil  and  bottom  heat,  but  branches  suitable  for  cuttings 
are  few. 

As  a  fruit  crop,  the  papaya  is  grown  from  seeds.  Seeds  started  in 
Florida  in  January  or  February  should  give  fruiting  plants  the 
following  winter.  The  seeds  are  sown  in  light  sandy  soil  about  one- 
half  inch  deep ;  care  should  be  taken  to  prevent  damping  off ; 
plants  may  be  placed  in  pots  when  they  have  made  the  third  leaves, 
and  from  the  pots  (after  another  shifting)  transferred  to  permanent 
quarters. 

The  papaya  plant  may  be  grafted,  special  varieties  thus  being 
perpetuated.  The  old  plant  is  cut  off  and  shoots  form  along  the 
trunk.  These  are  used  as  cions,  being  cut  to  wedge-shape  at  the 
lower  end  and  inserted  in  vigorous  seedlings  which  have  been  cut 
back  to  8  or  10  inches  high.  Shoots  about  the  size  of  a  lead  pencil 
are  chosen  for  cions,  and  the  leafage  is  partly  removed.  Seeds 
started  in  February  in  Florida,  according  to  Simmonds,  will  pro- 
duce stock  large  enough  to  graft  in  March ;  the  grafted  plants  are 
potted,  and  transferred  to  the  field  in  late  April  or  in  May ;  they 
should  bear  fruit  in  November  or  December. 

Paphiopedilum  (Cypripedium  of  greenhouses).     OrchidaccoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sometimes ;  usually  by  division.  See 
Orchids,  page  372;  also  Phragmopedilum,  page  392. 

Papyrus  (Cy penis  Papyrus).    Cyperaceas. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  early  autumn  or  spring,  and  division, 
chiefly  the  latter. 

Paradisea  (St.  Bruno's  Lily).    LUiacecB. 

Propagated  by  division,  or  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe. 

Parkinsonia.     LeguminosoB. 
Usually  raised  from  seeds. 

Parrotia.      HamamelidaceoB. 

Multiplied  by  seeds,  layers  or  by  greenwood  cuttings  under  gliuss 

Parsley  {Petroselinum.  horfensc).      UmbcIlifcrcB. 

Raised  from  seeds,  which  are  usually  sown  outdoors  in  si)ring 
The  roots  may  be  taken  up  in  fall  to  be  forced  under  glass. 


380  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Parsnip  (Pastinaca  sativa).      Umbelliferce. 

Grown  from  fresh  seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand. 

Parthenocissus,  Psedera.     Vitacece, 

Propagated  by  seeds,  hardwood  cuttings  and  layers ;  P.  fricuspi- 
data  and  its  varieties  from  greenwood  cuttings  ;  Virginia  creeper  (P. 
quinquefolia)  and  similar  kinds  by  hard  cuttings.     See  Ampelopsis, 

Passiflora  (Passion-Flower).     PassifloraceoB. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  under  glass.  Cuttings  of  the  young 
growth  taken  from  the  middle  of  January  until  April  root  easily  in 
sand  in  a  frame.  Varieties  are  sometimes  veneer-grafted  on  related 
stocks.   P.  cwrulea  propagates  by  root-cuttings. 

Paullinia.     SapindaceGB. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  young  shoots  in  spring. 

Paulo  wnia.     ScrophulariaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  in  spring  in  carefully  prepared  soil, 
either  in  a  seed-bed  or  in  a  coldframe.  Cuttings  of  ripe  wood  or  of 
roots  made  in  fall  or  spring  are  used ;  also  leaf-cuttings,  inserted  in 
sand  under  a  glass  in  a  propagating-house,  the  young  unfolding 
leaves  being  used  for  this  purpose  when  about  an  inch  long  and 
cut  off  close  to  the  petiole. 

Pavetta,     RubiacecB. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  in  sharp  sand 
in  a  warm  moist  house. 

Pavonia.     MalvacecB. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  in  spring  or  early  summer ;  also  by  seeds 
when  obtainable. 

Pea  (Pisum  sativum).     LeguminosoB. 

Raised  from  seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand.  The  plants 
are  hardy  and  seeds  may  be  sown  very  early,  and  deep.  For  cow- 
pea,  see  Vigna. 

Peach  and  Nectarine  {Prunus  Persica).     Rosacecs,  (H.  P.  Gould). 

The  peach  is  perhaps  the  easiest  to  propagate  of  all  the  widely 
grown  tree-fruits.  Propagation  is  universally  by  shield-budding 
and,  as  a  rule,  on  seedling  peach  stocks,  although  hard-shell  almond 
seedlings  have  been  used  somewhat  in  California  where  it  is  said 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  381 

they  give  hardier  and  stronger  roots  than  peaeh  seedHngs,  especially 
in  dry  soils.  On  soils  too  moist  for  peach  roots,  St.  Julian  i)luin 
stocks  have  been  used  as  well  as  myrobalan  plums,  but  plum  stocks 
tend  to  dwarf  the  trees,  and  the  union  is  frequently  imperfect; 
they  are  therefore  little  used  at  present.  Apricot  seedlings  have 
been  used,  but  possess  no  special  merit.  The  "wild  peach  of  ( 'hina" 
{Pninus,  or  Amygdalus,  Davidiana)  is  attracting  attention  in 
some  regions  as  a  hardy  peach  stock,  but  it  has  not  passed  the 
experimental  stage  and  it  clearly  is  not  adapted  to  growing  in 
all  sections.  The  western  sand  cherry  {Prunus  Besseyi)  is  used  to  a 
very  limited  extent  as  a  dwarfing  stock. 

Peach  pits  or  seeds  for  growing  seedling  stocks  come  mainly 
from  "  natural,"  that  is,  seedling,  peach  trees  and  orchards  that- 
abound  in  the  Appalachian  mountain  districts  of  North  Carolina, 
Tennessee  and  adjacent  areas.  On  the  Pacific  Coast,  the  pits  of 
certain  varieties,  such  as  Salwey,  Morris  White  and  Strawberry,  are 
commonly  used.  Pits  from  eastern  canneries  are  considered  un- 
desirable because  of  the  danger  of  "  yellows"  and  because  they  are 
so  variable  in  size  as  to  interfere  in  handling  them  in  a  peach-pit 
planter,  besides  producing  seedlings  varying  widely  in  size.  The 
conviction  among  nurserymen  is  that  the  "  natural  "  pits  produce 
stronger  seedlings,  and  more  uniform  in  size,  than  do  those  from 
the  **  budded  "  or  named  varieties. 

The  seeds  or  pits  may  be  planted  in  the  autumn  in  drills,  where 
the  nursery  is  to  be  located,  and  covered  about  2  inches  deep,  or 
they  may  be  bedded  or  stratified  in  sand  in  late  summer  or  autumn 
where  they  are  kept  moist  and  subjected  to  freezing  during  winter ; 
this  treatment  results  in  cracking  the  pits,  thus  releasing  the 
kernels.  So  long  as  the  kernels  remain  incased  in  the  pits,  they  can 
not  germinate.  In  bedding  the  pits,  an  excavation  12  or  15  inches 
deep  is  made  in  a  well-drained  spot  and  the  pits  are  placed  in  it  in 
layers,  alternating  with  sand  in  essentially  the  same  way  as  when 
they  are  stratified  in  a  box. 

In  the  early  spring  the  pits  are  separated  from  the  sand  by  sifting 
and  hand  sorting,  and  planted  in  drills  where  they  are  to  grow,  being 
covered  1^  to  2  inches  deep.  If  only  a  few  seeds  are  concerned, 
the  pits  may  be  cracked  by  hand  without  other  treatment  and 
planted  at  once,  but  this  is  too  slow  for  commercial  work.  In  the 
South  where  there  are  no  hard  freezing  temperatures,  dependence 
is  placed  on  long-continued  subjection  of  the  pits  to  moisture  to 
orack  them.     They  are  kept  particularly  moist  when  stratified,  or 


382  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

they  may  remain  over  one  year  in  the  ground  after  they  are  planted 
before  they  germinate. 

If  small,  well-graded,  "natural  "  pits  are  used,  running  6,000  to 
7,000  to  the  bushel,  7  or  8  bushels  will  be  required  to  plant  an  acre ; 
the  larger  pits  from  *'  budded  "  varieties  secured  from  canneries 
may  run  as  low  as  2,200  to  2,500  to  the  bushel,  requiring  a  cor- 
respondingly larger  quantity  to  plant  a  given  area.  Planted  in 
well-prepared  fertile  soil,  most  of  the  seedlings  should  attain  a 
diameter  of  about  one-fourth  inch  by  midsummer ;  that  is,  a  size 
large  enough  to  bud,  this  operation  being  performed  principally 
from  the  last  of  July  to  early  September.  (The  details  of  shield- 
budding  are  described  on  pages  122-133.)  The  buds  placed  on  the 
stocks  in  this  period  remain  dormant  until  the  following  spring, 
when,  with  the  return  of  warm  weather,  they  should  grow  rapidly. 
After  one  season's  growth  in  the  nursery  they  are  termed  "  one- 
year-olds  "  and  are  ready  for  sale  and  for  permanent  planting. 
Peach  trees  older  than  one  year  should  rarely  if  ever  be  planted, 
although  "June  buds  "  or  "summer  buds,"  which  have  roots 
one  year  younger  than  one-year-old  trees,  find  favor  with  some 
growers  in  the  South.  These  are  produced  in  regions  where  a  very 
early  opening  of  the  growing  season  in  spring  produces  seedlings 
large  enough  to  bud  by  June  of  the  same  year.  If  buds  are  inserted 
on  such  stocks  in  June  or  early  July,  they  start  into  growth  at  once 
instead  of  remaining  dormant  until  the  following  spring,  and  by 
late  fall  they  develop  into  well-branched  trees  2  to  3  feet  high.  Such 
trees  give  excellent  results  for  orchard  planting  in  the  experience  of 
many  southern  growers. 

As  soon  as  the  bud  has  "  taken,  "that  is,  become  attached  to  the 
stock,  which  will  be  within  ten  days  to  two  weeks  after  it  is  inserted, 
the  raffia  or  string  with  which  the  stock  was  wrapped  should  be  cut 
to  prevent  it  girdling  the  stock  and  choking  the  bud.  And  further, 
as  soon  as  the  bud  has  grown  3  or  4  inches  —  in  midsummer  in  case 
of  June  budding,  in  early  spring  in  case  of  later  budding  —  the 
top  of  the  seedling  stock  above  the  bud  should  be  cut  away  close 
enough  to  the  bud  so  that  the  wound  will  heal  over  readily  as  the 
tree  grows. 

In  Florida,  the  May  and  June  budding  of  peaches  is  successful 
only  when  the  leaves  are  left  on  the  stock  except  that  enough  to 
allow  the  bud  to  be  inserted  may  be  removed.  Leaves  must  be 
left  above  and  below  the  point  of  insertion.  As  soon  as  the  bud 
is  inserted,  the  top  of  the  stock  is  cut  back  partly,  and  this  cutting 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  383 

back  process  is  continued  till  the  buds  have  developed  a  length  of 
3  to  4  inches,  when  the  stocks  may  be  cut  off  and  all  the  leaves 
cleanjed  up. 

Peach  trees  may  be  grafted  and  this  practice  is  sometimes  followed 
in  top-working  trees  several  years  of  age ;  but  when  it  is  desired  to 
change  the  varietv,  it  is  better  to  do  so  by  budding,  since  the 
wounds  made  in  grafting  do  not  heal  readily. 

As  buds  can  be  set  successfully'  only  in  wood  of  the  current 
season's  growth,  it  is  necessary  to  head  back  old  trees  severely 
and  get  a  vigorous  growth  of  sprouts  if  it  is  desired  to  work  them 
over  to  other  varieties. 

Ornamental  peaches  (as  double-flowered  varieties)  are  budded 
on  common  peach  stock  in  the  same  way  as  the  fruit-bearing  sorts. 

The  nectarine  is  propagated  in  the  same  way  and  on  the  same 
stocks  as  the  peach.   For  Prunus  Simonii,  see  Plum. 

Peanut,  Goober  {Arachis  hypogcea).     Leguminosce. 

Grown  from  seeds,  which,  for  greenhouses  or  cold  climates, 
should  be  sown  in  heat.  In  warm  exposures  and  quick  soil  in  the 
North,  seeds  planted  directly  in  the  open  will  give  satisfactory 
results  for  the  amateur.  The  peanut,  as  a  field  crop  in  the  South, 
is  grown  from  seeds  planted  where  the  crop  is  to  stand.  The 
seed  of  the  thick-podded  kinds  is  shelled  before  planting,  but  not 
of  the  thin-podded  kinds.  The  seed  is  planted  at  the  same  season 
as  corn  (maize),  6  to  10  inches  apart  in  the  row,  and  the  rows  2 J 
to  3  feet  apart. 

Pear  {Pyrus  communis,  P.  serotina  and  perhaps  others).  RosacecB. 
Pear  seedlings  are  grown  in  the  same  way  as  those  of  the  apple, 
which  see.  Pear  stocks  are  imported  from  France,  however,  as  the 
leaf-blight  is  so  destructive  to  them  here  as  to  render  their  culture 
unprofitable.  This  leaf-blight  is  a  fungus,  and  recent  experiment 
has  shown  that  it  can  be  readily  overcome  by  four  or  five  thorough 
sprayings  with  bordeaux  mixture,  so  that  there  is  reason  to  hope 
that  the  growing  of  pear  stocks  may  yet  become  profitable  in  this 
country,  although  the  higher  price  of  labor  here,  and  the  drier  sum- 
mers, are  serious  disadvantages.  Heretofore,  the  only  means  of 
mitigating  the  ravages  of  this  blight  was  the  uncertain  one  of  in- 
ducing a  strong  growth  early  in  the  season.  Even  when  pear  stocks 
are  raised  in  this  country,  they  are  grown  from  imported  French 
seed.  Aside  from  its  cheapness,  however,  this  foreign  seed  probably 
possesses  no  superiority  over  domestic  seed.    But  pear  seed  is  so 


384  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

difficult  to  obtain  in  America  that  it  is  practically  out  of  the  market. 
Seedlings  of  the  sand  pear  type  (Pyrus  serotina)  have  been  strongly 
recommended  for  stocks,  but  they  do  not  attain  general  favor 
amongst  nurserymen. 

Pear  seedlings  should  be  taken  up  and  removed  from  the  seed- 
bed the  first  fall.  The  foreign  stocks  are  imported  when  a  year  old 
from  the  seed.  The  seedlings  are  trimmed  and  sometimes  "  dressed" 
(see  page  123),  and  are  set  into  nursery  rows  the  following  spring. 
The  next  season  —  that  is,  the  season  in  which  the  stocks  are 
transplanted  —  shield-budding  is  performed,  as  with  the  apple. 
The  budding  season  usually  begins  late  in  July  or  early  in  August 
in  the  North.  If  the  stocks  are  small,  of  "  second  size,"  they  may 
stand  over  winter  and  be  budded  the  second  year.  Pear  trees  are 
sold  at  two  and  three  years  from  the  bud.  Pears  do  not  succeed  well 
when  root-grafted,  except  when  a  long  cion  is  used,  for  the  purpose 
of  securing  own-rooted  trees  (see  page  140).  Dormant  buds  of  the 
pear  may  be  used  on  large  stocks  in  early  spring,  the  same  as  with 
the  apple,  and  buds  may  be  kept  on  ice  for  use  in  early  summer 
(see  page  132). 

Pears  are  dwarfed  by  working  on  the  quince.  The  Angers  quince 
is  the  best  stock.  The  ordinary  orange  quince  and  its  kin  generally 
make  weak  and  short-lived  trees.  Quince  stocks  are  obtained  from 
ordinary  cuttings  or  from  mound-layering,  the  latter  method  giving 
much  the  better  stocks  (see  Quince).  The  layers  should  be  removed 
the  first  autumn ;  or,  if  they  are  not  rooted  then,  they  may  be  left  a 
year  longer,  when  they  will  be  found  to  be  well  rooted,  and  may  then 
be  taken  off,  trimmed  up  and  fitted  to  plant  as  stocks  the  following 
spring,  and  budded  in  August.  Quince  stocks  are  bought  in  Europe, 
whence  they  arrive  in  the  fall.  They  are  ''  dressed  "  and  set  in 
nursery  rows  the  following  spring,  and  the  buds  are  set  the  first 
season.  It  is  imperative  to  set  the  bud  as  low  as  possible  to  secure 
trees  that  can  easily  be  set  deep  enough  to  cover  the  union  (4  to  6 
inches  below  the  surface  is  the  common  depth  of  planting  dwarf 
pears).  Some  varieties  do  not  unite  well  with  the  quince,  and  if 
it  is  desired  to  dwarf  them  they  should  be  double-worked  (see  page 
168).  Some  of  the  common  and  popular  varieties  that  thrive 
directly  on  the  quince  (without  double-working)  are  the  following : 
Angouleme  (Duchess),  Anjou,  Louise  Bonne,  Howell,  White 
Doyenne  (Virgalieu),  Manning  Elizabeth,  Lawrence.  Varieties 
that  usually  thrive  better  when  double-worked  are  Clairgeau, 
Bartlett,  Seckel,  and  others. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  385 

The  pear  can  also  be  grown  on  the  apple,  thorn  and  mountain 
ash.  On  the  apple  it  is  short-lived,  although  pear  cions,  set  in  the  top 
of  an  old  apple  tree,  often  bear  large  fruits  for  a  few  years.  When 
pear  stocks  cannot  be  had,  pears  are  sometimes  worked  on  apple 
roots.  If  the  cions  are  long  they  will  emit  roots,  and  when  the  apple 
nurse  fails  the  pear  becomes  own-rooted.  Good  dwarf  trees  are  often 
reported  on  the  thorn.  The  subject  is  little  understood.  The  moun- 
tain ash  is  sometimes  used  for  the  purpose  of  growing  pears  on  a 
sandy  soil,  but  its  use  appears  to  be  of  little  consequence.  All  these 
special  stocks  are  of  doubtful  utility. 

Pears  of  the  Le  Conte  and  Kieifer  type  are  often  grown  from  cut- 
tings in  the  South.  Cuttings  are  made  of  the  recent  mature  growth, 
about  a  foot  in  length,  and  are  planted  in  the  open  ground,  after 
the  manner  of  long  grape  cuttings.  Le  Conte,  Garber,  Smith,  and 
other  very  strong  growers  of  the  Chinese  type,  are  probably  best 
when  grown  from  cuttings.  They  soon  overgrow  French  stocks,  as 
also  apple  stocks,  which  have  been  used  to  some  extent ;  but  if  long 
cions  are  used,  own-rooted  trees  are  soon  obtained,  and  the  stock  will 
have  served  a  useful  purpose  in  pushing  the  cion  the  first  two  or 
three  years. 

Pecan  {Carya,  or  Hicoria,  Pecan).  JuglandacecB.  (C.  A. 
Reed.) 

The  species  is  propagated  by  seeds,  varieties  by  budding  and 
grafting.  Nuts  for  planting  should  be  gathered  as  soon  as  ripe, 
cured  so  as  to  remove  excess  moisture,  without  drying,  and  planted 
at  once,  or  better  stratified  or  held  in  storage  until  spring.  The 
soil  should  be  a  fertile  loam,  preferably  underlain  with  a  firm  but 
not  hard  clay  subsoil,  and  moist  without  being  wet.  It  should 
be  well  prepared  and  the  nuts  planted  about  3  inches  deep,  8  to  10 
inches  apart  in  the  row  and  the  rows  4  to  6  feet  apart.  In  the  South, 
well-selected  nuts  planted  in  January  should  make  seedlings  fit 
for  grafting  in  one  to  three  years.  Some  of  those  grafted  in  one 
year  should  be  of  sufficient  size  for  transplanting  to  permanent 
orchard  positions  the  following  winter,  or  two  years  after  the  nuts 
were  planted.  As  budding  is  performed  only  in  summer,  the  earliest 
that  any  of  these  seedlings  ordinarily  can  be  used  by  this  method  is 
when  eighteen  months  of  age. 

The  advantages  of  grafting  over  budding,  or  vice  versa,  are 
dependent  more  on  the  convenience  and  skill  of  the  operator  than 
on  the  method.  In  either  case  preferably  the  operation  should  be 
2c 


386  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

performed  not  less  than  18  inches  above  ground  in  order  to  avoid 
subsequent  winter-injury  to  the  smooth  trunks  forming  above  the 
point  of  union.  Obviously  crown-  or  root-grafts  are  most  suscep- 
tible to  this  trouble.  Trees  worked  low  should  be  given  a  winter 
wrapping  of  wooden  veneer,  heavy  paper,  burlap,  or  similar  material 
for  four  to  six  years,  or  until  the  natural  protection  of  rough  bark 
is  developed.  Cions  of  last  year's  growth  cut  while  dormant  and 
held  in  storage  may  be  used  in  earl^-  spring  for  grafting  or  to  afford 
buds  for  early  summer  budding.  For  late  summer  budding,  bud- 
sticks  may  be  cut  from  the  earliest  of  the  current  season's  growth. 
In  the  South,  root-grafting  is  usually  performed  from  January  to 
March ;  in  the  North  from  March  to  May,  depending  on  weather 
and  soil  conditions .  For  nursery  grafting  the  tongue-graft  is  most  in 
use.  With  larger  stocks,  especially  in  top-working,  the  bark-  or  slip- 
bark-graft  gives  maximum  results.  Dormant  budding  in  late 
winter  or  early  spring  is  successful  at  the  hands  of  skilled  operators. 
Later  budding  may  be  by  the  annular  or  patch  methods.  Special 
tools  have  been  devised  for  these  methods  by  which  amateurs  soon 
become  successful.  No  matter  what^method  may  be  employed  in 
propagating  the  pecan,  subsequent  care  in  unwrapping,  rewrapping, 
removing  the  wrapping,  necessary  shading,  staking  to  prevent 
the  new  top  from  blowing  out,  pruning,  guarding  against  insects, 
and  the  like,  are  equally  important  to  initial  operation. 

Propagation  is  sometimes  accomplished  by  cuttings  taken  from 
the  ends  of  soft  growing  roots.     See  Hickory. 

Pelargonium  (Geranium.     Stork's  Bill).     Geraniaceoe. 

Seeds,  sown  in  light  soil  with  mild  heat,  are  sometimes  employed. 
Commonly  increased  by  cuttings  of  firm  shoots,  which  grow  readily 
(Figs.  119,  121).  The  common  geraniums,  for  conservatory  use, 
should  be  renewed  from  cuttings  every  year.  Cuttings  of  the  zonal 
or  "fish"  geraniums  are  mostly  taken  from  stock  plants  grown  in 
the  open  and  lifted  in  autumn.  The  fancy  or  show  geraniums  are 
grown  from  cuttings  taken  after  blooming,  and  sometimes  from 
root-cuttings,  but  often  will  not  come  true.  Geraniums  can 
also  be  grafted,  the  named  varieties  being  worked  on  related  stocks. 
(See  page  165,  Herbaceous  Grafting.) 

Pelecyphora  (Hatchet  Cactus).     Cadacece. 

Handled  by  seeds  in  moderate  heat,  and  by  cuttings  made  of  any 
small  shoots  that  arise  from  the  base.  See  also  Cacti. 


Plate  XI.     Horse-help  in  the  nursery. — Fitting  the  land  for  nursery  stock. 

Digging  by  mule-power. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  387 

Pellaea  (Cliff  Brake).     Polypodiaceoe. 

Propagated  by  spores  and  division.    See  Ferns,  page  312. 

Peltandra.     Aracece. 
Multiplied  by  seeds  when  fresh,  and  by  division.   See  AracecE. 

Pennisetum.     GraminecB. 

Increased  by  seed  but  the  long-lived  perennials  give  quicker 
results  by  divisions  of  the  old  plants. 

Pentas.     RubiaceoB. 

Propagated  from  February  to  middle  of  April  by  cuttings  of 
young  shoots  in  sandy  soil  in  a  warm  propagating-house.  . 

Pentstemon  (Beard-Tongue).     ScrophuJariaceae. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  in  pans  and  placed  under  a  frame,  or 
sometimes  sown  in  the  border  where  the  plants  are  to  stand ;  also 
by  division,  and  rarely  by  cuttings  in  summer. 

Peperomia.     Piperacece. 

Cuttings  of  single  joints  of  firm  stems  root  easily  in  a  peaty  soil, 
with  a  bottom  heat  of  75°  to  80° ;  water  sparingly  and  do  not  keep 
too  close  or  they  will  damp  off.     Seeds  may  also  be  used. 

Pepper,  Red  or  Cayenne  (Capsicum).     Solanaceoe. 

Raised  from  seeds,  sown  outdoors  in  a  seed-bed  or  in  the  North 
oftener  started  in  the  house  in  February  or  March.  For  the  pepper 
of  commerce,  see  Piper. 

Perennials. 

What  are  known  to  gardeners  as  "  perennials  "  are  herbaceous 
plants  that  live  three  years  or  more.  Of  course  the  shrubs  and 
trees  are  perennial  (that  is,  perannual)  but  they  are  taken  for 
granted  and  are  usually  not  in  mind  when  perennials  are  men- 
tioned. 

Many  of  the  herbaceous  perennials  propagate  naturally  by  offsets 
and  divisible  parts.  Of  such  are  the  lilies  and  other  bulbous  plants, 
the  day  lilies  (hemerocallis)  that  produce  tuberous  parts,  and  many 
things  that  grow  into  clumps  and  ''  patches."  Many  of  the 
perennials  are  grown  commercially  by  simply  dividing  the  clumps, 
stools  and  mats.  Special  or  named  varieties  may  be  grown  from 
cuttings,  as  the  summer  perennial  phloxes. 

Most  of  the  herbaceous  perennials  known  to  ordinary  commerce 
propagate  readily  by  means  of  seeds.     The  common   perennial 


388  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

larkspurs,  campanulas,  achilleas,  chrysanthemums,  asters,  heli- 
anthuses,  goldenrods,  may  be  grown  easily  from  seeds  sown  in  the 
open  ground  in  spring.  The  plants  should  bloom  the  following 
vear.  The  sowing  may  be  where  the  plants  are  eventually  to 
stand,  but  this  means  that  the  place  will  not  be  well  utilized  the 
first  year.  It  is  usually  preferable  to  raise  the  seedlings  in  spe- 
cially prepared  beds  and  to  transplant  in  autumn  or  spring  to 
permanent  quarters.  Specially  choice  things  should  be  handled 
in  pots  and  carried  over  winter  in  a  frame,  particularly  if  somewhat 
tender  to  cold,  heat  and  drought.  Seeds  of  many  early-bloom- 
ing dry-fruited  perennials  germinate  the  same  season,  if  planted 
when  ripe,  but  special  care  is  often  necessary  to  protect  the  young 
slants  over  winter  so  they  may  not  get  a  strong  foothold.  Usually 
it  is  better  to  keep  the  seeds  till  the  following  spring.  Seeds 
of  many  perennials,  particularly  those  borne  in  fleshy  capsules  or 
berries,  do  not  grow  till  they  have  passed  the  winter's  frost,  and 
some  of  the  woods  things  will  not  germinate  till  the  second  spring. 

In  long-season  climates,  perennial  seedlings  may  become  so 
large  by  fall,  if  started  early  in  spring,  as  to  make  preparations 
for  bloom  and  thereby  so  weaken  themselves  as  to  be  liable  to 
winter-injury.  This  is  true  specially  of  those  that  tend  to  take  on  a 
biennial  character. 

Many  of  the  florist's  perennials  are  practically  annuals  under  the 
method  of  culture  under  glass,  with  the  continuous  growth.  This 
is  true  of  the  carnation,  the  florist's  chrysanthemum,  violets, 
fuchsias,  geraniums,  and  even  of  roses,  counting  the  period  from 
cutting  to  bloom.  Even  from  seed,  the  epoch  may  be  condensed 
into  a  year,  as  with  tuberous  begonias,  gloxinias,  cyclamens, 
calceolarias,  lupines,  primulas.  In  nature  the  line  between  per- 
ennials and  plants  of  lesser  duration  is  not  always  sharply  drawn. 
See  Biennials  and  Annuals,  pages  251,  231. 

With  most  herbaceous  perennials,  the  best  bloom  is  obtained 
with  young  plants ;  after  the  second  bloom  (or  sometimes  even 
after  the  first)  the  plant  may  begin  to  fail  or  to  become  root- 
bound.  There  are  many  exceptions  to  this,  when  plants  grow 
stronger  and  more  floriferous  for  a  series  of  years,  as  lilies,  crown 
imperial,  peonies,  dictamnus.  Only  by  experience  of  oneself  or 
others  can  one  determine  these  differences ;  and  the  distinctions 
are  likely  to  vary  in  different  climates  and  soils. 

The  practice  of  growing  perennials  from  seeds  should  be  en- 
couraged.    One  knows  a  plant  better  and  cares  more  for  it  if  one 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  389 

is  r(;sponsible  for  the  entire  process  from  seed-time  to  harvest  and 
death.  The  practice  of  buying  perennials  from  nurserymen  de- 
prives the  amateur  of  one  of  the  choicest  satisfactions  in  plant- 
growing.  To  see  young  things  coming  up,  to  handle  them  with 
skill  and  patience,  to  provide  the  conditions  they  most  re(|uire, 
to  watch  the  result  of  a  year's  good  effort,  —  all  this  is  a  part  of 
good  gardening. 

Pereskia  (Barbados  Gooseberry).     Caciaceoe. 

Seeds  when  obtainable.  Cuttings,  as  described  under  cacti. 
P.  aculeata  is  much  used  as  a  stock  for  zygocactus.  P.  grandifolia 
is  sometimes  used  for  the  same  purpose,  as  it  is  fully  as  good  as  the 
other  species.  Cuttings  of  P.  aculeata  can  be  made  a  foot  or  more  in 
length,  and  of  sufficient  size  for  immediate  use  ;  or  the  graft  may  be 
inserted  when  the  cutting  is  made.   See  Cacti,  page  261. 

Perilla.     Labiatoe. 

Readily  raised  from  seeds  sown  in  the  open  when  weather  is 
warm,  or  started  under  glass  and  transplanted ;  tends  to  become 
spontaneous. 

Periploca.     AsclepiadacecB. 

Increased  mostly  by  layers  or  greenwood  cuttings  under  glass,  in 
summer  or  autumn.  Root-cuttings  succeed.  Seeds  are  also  em- 
ployed. 

Peristeria.     OrchidacecE. 

Increased  by  division  or  separating  the  pseudobulbs,  as  growth 
commences.    See  Orchids,  page  372. 

Peristrophe.     AcanthacecB. 

Propagated  by  softwood  cuttings  taken  at  any  time  and  placed 
in  a  warm  bed. 

Pernettya.     EricacecB. 

Propagation  is  by  seeds,  or  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood  in 
summer  under  glass ;  also  by  layers  and  suckers. 

Persea.     Lauracece. 

Raised  from  seeds.  For  growing  under  glass,  layers  of  ripened 
shoots  may  be  made  in  autumn,  or  cuttings  of  firm  shoots.  See 
Avocado. 


390  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Persimmon,  Kaki  (Diospyros  Kaki  and  D.  virginiana) .    EbenacecB, 
(H.  H.  Hume.) 

Seeds  of  Z>.  virginiana  and  D,  Lotus  planted  in  the  winter  in  the 
lower  South,  or  in  early  spring  farther  north,  usually  give  stocks  of 
sufficient  size  for  budding  the  first  year ;  or  these  same  stocks  may  be 
whip-  or  cleft-grafted  just  under  the  surface  of  the  ground  the 
following  winter.  Persimmons  may  also  be  bench-grafted  on  whole 
or  piece  roots.  It  is  best  to  grow  D.  virginiana  seedlings  in  closely 
planted  seed-beds  and  transplant  to  nursery  rows  when  one  year 
old,  thereby  vastly  improving  their  otherwise  scant  root  systems. 
They  are  there  grown  on  for  another  season  before  being  worked. 
D.  virginiana  is  the  stock  commonly  used,  but  for  dry  or  semi-arid 
cHmates,  D.  Lotus  is  much  the  better.  D.  virginiana  and  D. 
Lotus  stocks  are  used  both  for  the  named  or  improved  forms 
of  D.  virginiana  and  for  the  kaki  or  Japanese  persimmon  (D.  Kaki). 

For  best  results,  when  persimmons  are  propagated  by  shield- 
budding,  the  buds  should  be  cut  long,  and  inserted  either  when  the 
leaf-buds  are  breaking  into  growth  in  spring  or  dormant-budded 
just  before  the  bark  tightens  on  the  stocks  at  the  close  of  the 
season's  growth.  For  early  spring  work,  dormant  winter-buds  are 
used.  For  top-working  trees,  the  same  methods  of  budding  and 
grafting  are  successfully  employed. 

Petalostemum  (Prairie  Clover).     LeguminosGB. 
Propagated  by  seeds  and  division. 

Petasites.     Compositw. 

Increased  mostly  by  division ;  also  by  seeds  after  the  manner 
of  other  herbaceous  perennials. 

Petrea.     VerbenaceGB. 

Propagated  by  shoot-cuttings  placed  in  brisk  bottom  heat ;  by 
seeds  where  they  mature. 

Petimia.     Solanaceoe. 

Raised  from  seeds,  either  indoors  or  started  in  the  garden.  Some- 
times they  self-sow.  Choice  and  double  varieties  are  often  increased 
by  cuttings,  as  for  geraniums,  which  grow  readily. 

Phacelia,  Eutoca,  Whitlavia.     HydrophyllacecB. 

The  flower-garden  annuals  are  increased  by  seeds,  and  the 
perennials  by  seeds  and  division. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  39i 

Phaedranthus.     Bignoniaceae. 

Propagation  as  for  bignonia,  which  see. 

Phaius.     OrchidaceoB. 

Increased  by  division  of  the  dormant  pseudobulbs.  See  Orchids. 
Phalaenopsis.     Orchidaceoe. 

The  kinds  of  phalaenopsis  are  very  slow  and  difficult  to  propagate. 
In  most  of  the  species  it  can  only  be  done  when  a  lateral  offshoot 
is  made  from  the  main  stem.  Some  species,  such  as  P.  Lucddcin(ui~ 
niana,  and  more  rarely  P.  amabilis,  P.  Stuartianaand  P.  Schillcriana, 
develop  plantlets  on  the  old  flower-scapes.  By  pegging  these  down 
on  a  basket  of  moss,  the^^  may  be  established  and  afterwards  sepa- 
rated. P.  Stuartiana  has  been  known  to  produce  plants  on  the 
roots.  Other  examples  of  root-proliferation  are  recorded  in  Sac- 
colabium  micranthum  and  a  species  of  cyrtopodium.  See  under 
Orchids,  page  372. 

Phalaris.     GramineoB. 

Handled  by  seeds,  but  the  sports  or  varieties  by  division.  The 
perennial  P.  arundinacea  may  be  divided  when  transplanting.  See 
Grasses,  page  328. 

Phaseolus    (Bean.   Kidney,   Pole,   String,   Lima,   French   Bean). 
LeguminoscB. 
The  ornamental  greenhouse  kinds  are  grown  from  seeds  planted 
in  light  soil  in  a  warm  propaga ting-house.     For  the  edible  and 
culinary  kinds,  see  Bean. 

Phellodendron  (Cork  Tree).     RuiaccoB. 

Increased  by  seeds,  layers,  root-cuttings  dug  up  in  fall  and  stored 
during  winter  in  moist  sand  or  sphagnum,  and  by  cuttings  taken 
from  the  tree  in  July  with  a  heel  of  older  wood.  Seeds  usually  are 
employed,  when  produced. 

Philadelphus  (Mock  Orange.  Syringa,  erroneously).  SaxifragacccB. 
Propagated  by  seeds,  layers,  suckers  and  cuttings.  Cuttings  of 
mature  wood  are  generally  employed.  Some  well-marked  \arieties, 
like  var.  nanus  of  P.  coronarins,  are  grown  from  cuttings  of  soft 
wood  in  summer  in  frames. 

Phillyrea  (Jasmine  Box.  Mock  Privet).     OleaceoB. 

Maj^  be  propagated  by  seeds  sown  soon  after  maturity,  cuttings 
of  ha  f-ripened  wood  under  glass  in  summer,  layers,  and  by  grafting 
on  the  privet  (as  on  Ligustrum  ovalifolium). 


392  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Philodendron.     AraceoB. 

Propagated  by  dividing  the  stems,  allowing  two  or  three  joints 
to  each  piece,  struck  under  glass ;  also  by  seeds  when  they  are 
obtainable.  See  AraceoB,  page  239. 

Phlomis.     LabiatoB. 

Seeds  usually  grow  readily ;  cuttings  of  green  wood  may  also  be 
employed ;  division  of  strong  stools. 

Phlox.     PolemoniaceoB. 

The  annuals  are  grown  from  seeds  sown  in  the  open  or  sometimes 
started  inside.  The  perennials  are  grown  from  seeds,  divisions, 
cuttings  of  stems  and  roots.  Cuttings  made  in  summer,  and  handled 
in  a  frame,  do  well.  The  roots  are  sometimes  cut  into  short  pieces, 
and  are  then  handled  in  pans  or  flats  under  cover.  The  showy 
summer-blooming  perennial  phloxes  (of  the  P.  decussata  type)  are 
grown  from  cuttings  of  side  shoots  in  summer  and  also  of  stronger 
and  more  mature  shoots. 

Phoenix.     PalmaceoB. 

The  species  grown  for  ornament  are  generally  increased  by 
suckers  and  seeds,  the  seeds  usually  being  imported.   See  also  Date. 

Phormium  (New  Zealand  Flax).     Liliaceoe. 

Seeds  sown  in  February  will  make  good  plants  for  bedding  purposes 
the  spring  of  the  following  year.  Also  increased  by  division  of  the 
crowns  before  growth  begins  in  spring. 

Photinia.     Rosace  (f. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood  under 
glass  and  by  layers ;  also  by  grafting  on  hawthorn  or  quince.  The 
genus  is  now  usually  defined  separately  from  Eriobotrya ;  seeLoquat. 

Phragmopedilum  (part  of  the  group  of  greenhouse  cypripediums). 
Orchidaceoe. 
Propagated  by  division  and  seeds.   See  Orchids,  page  372. 

Phygelius.     Scrophulariacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds ;  also  by  cuttings,  taken  from  the  late 
autumn  shoots  of  outdoor  plants,  or  from  growths  arising  from 
stock  plants. 

Phyllanthus.     Euphorbiaceoe. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  ripe  shoots  taken  in  August  or  before, 
which  will  root  in  sand  if  placed  under  a  glass  and  in  bottom  heat. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  303 

P.  niwsus  grows  readily  from  root-cuttings,  P.  acidus  and  P.  Em- 
blica  may  be  grown  from  seeds ;  the  latter  also  by  layers. 

Phymatodes.     Polypodiaceos. 

Spores  and  division.     See  Ferns,  page  312. 

Physalis  (Ground  or  Winter  Cherry.    Strawberry  Tomato.  Husk 
Tomato) .     Solanaccoe. 
Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  outdoors  or  under  cover ;  perennials 
by  division  of  the  rhizomes  and  soft  cuttings. 

Physocarpus  (Ninebark).     Rosacece. 

Propagated  by  hardwood  or  greenwood  cuttings  and  by  seeds,  as 
for  spiraea. 

Physostegia.     Lahiaiae. 

Division  of  strong  clumps  may  be  made  readily ;  also  grown  from 
seeds,  as  are  other  herbaceous  perennials. 

Phyteuma.     Campanulaceoe. 

Propagated  freely  by  seeds,  and  division  in  spring. 

Phytolacca  (Scoke.     Poke).     Phytolaccacece. 

Propagated  by  means  of  seeds,  or  by  division  of  the  thick  roots, 
usually  the  former. 

Picea   (Spruce).     Pinaceae. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sometimes  by  layers,  sometimes  by  grafts ; 
also  by  cuttings  of  recent  wood.  Seedlings  must  be  shaded  the  first 
year.  The  spruces  are  easily  grafted.  P.  excelsa  (Norway  spruce) 
or  P.  canadensis  (alba)  makes  a  good  stock;  the  veneer-graft, 
under  glass,  in  winter,  succeeds  better  than  any  method  of  outdoor 
work  practicable  in  our  climate ;  if  the  graft  is  inserted  near  the 
base  in  young  plants,  it  is  quite  possible  to  obtain  them  on  their 
own  roots  after  a  few  transplantings.  Side  shoots  can  be  used  as 
cions,  and  if  started  in  time  will  furnish  good  leaders  ;  sometimes  a 
leader  is  developed  more  rapidly  by  bending  the  plant  over  at 
nearly  a  right  angle,  when  a  stout  bud  may  start  from  the  stem. 
The  balsam  fir  is  also  a  good  stock  for  flat-leaved  species.  See 
Abies. 

Pieris.     Ericaceae. 

Propagation  by  seeds  and  layers  and  the  evergreen  kinds  by 
cuttings    of   almost   ripened   wood    in   August  under   glass,   kept 


394  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

over  the  winter  in  a  cool  greenhouse.  Seedlings  are  handled  much  as 
are  rhododendrons  and  similar  things. 

Pilea  (Artillery  Plant).      Urticaceoe. 

Increased  by  seeds  (when  available),  division  and  soft  cuttings, 
commonly  the  last. 

Pimelia.      Thymelaeaceae. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  in  March,  placed 
in  mixture  of  loam,  peat  and  silver  sand,  covered  with  glass,  and 
kept  in  a  temperature  of  55°  to  60°. 

Pinanga.     Palmaceoe. 

Propagated  by  imported  seeds.  See  Palms,  page  377. 

Pine :     Pinus. 

Pineapple  (Ananas  sativus).     BromeliacecB.     (P.  H.  Rolfs.) 

Pineapple  fruits  as  obtained  on  the  market  rarely  contain  seed, 
but  by  hand-pollinating  it  is  comparatively  easy  to  produce  an 
abundance  of  seed.  The  only  use  that  can  be  made  of  these  seeds 
is  in  producing  new  varieties.  In  this  .country,  pineapples  are  rarely 
grown  under  glass  for  fruit,  but  specimens  are  sometimes  found  in 
botanical  collections  and  there  are  stripe-leaved  varieties  grown  for 
ornament.  The  indoor  propagation  is  mostly  by  suckers  or  offsets 
from  the  base. 

The  stock  or  trunk  of  the  pineapple,  as  the  plant  is  grown  com- 
mercially in  subtropical  United  States,  is  usually  spoken  of  as  the 
"root  "  and  also  as  the  "  stool."  This  bears  a  bud  in  the  axil  of 
every  leaf.  The  root  proper  of  the  pineapple  plant  is  a  small  fibrous 
organ  and  contains  no  buds.  In  commercial  pineapple  fields,  from 
one  to  a  large  number  of  buds  sprout  from  the  old  stem  after  the 
fruit  has  been  removed  from  the  plant.  In  local  vernacular,  these  are 
spoken  of  as  '*  suckers."  In  most  varieties,  the  suckers  are  pre- 
ferred for  the  setting  of  new  fields.  They  are  commonly  set  out 
when  8  to  14  inches  long.  The  bases  are  usually  trimmed  and  the 
tops  cut  back.  The  suckers  may  be  allowed  to  lie  on  the  sand  for 
days,  or  even  weeks,  without  serious  damage.  They  start  into 
growth  more  quickly,  however,  if  set  out  promptly.  Sometimes 
"  rattoons  "  propagate  the  plant ;  these  are  shoots  arising  from 
an  underground  part  and  developing  a  plant  independently  of  the 
parent  stock.     Figs.  52-55. 

When  the  pineapple  plant  fruits,  a  stalk  is  produced  varying  in 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  395 

length  with  different  varieties  from  a  few  inches  to  a  foot  or  even 
more  in  length.  The  pineapple  fruit  is  borne  at  the  summit  of  this 
stalk.  At  the  base  of  the  fruit  a  consideral)le  number  of  small  plants 
is  produced.  These  are  spoken  of  as  "  slips."  Usually  the  pine- 
apple fruits  can  be  broken  from  the  top  of  the  stalk  after  removing 
the  slips.  When  these  slips  have  grown  to  be  8  or  10  inches  long, 
they  are  removed  and  considered  as  equal  to  suckers  of  the  same 
size. 

At  the  apex  of  the  fruit  is  an  outgrowth  spoken  of  as  the  "  crown." 
This  crown  may  be  used  for  producing  pineapples  in  the  same  way 
that  suckers  or  slips  are  employed.  In  some  varieties  a  considerable 
number  of  small  plants  arise  around  the  crown ;  at  times  these 
develop  into  large  enough  plants  to  make  it  possible  to  set  them  in 
the  field.  They  are  then  called  "  crown  slips."  It  is  seldom  that 
crown  slips  are  used  for  commercial  propagation. 

In  case  of  rare  or  high-priced  pineapples,  the  old  stools  may  be 
used  successfully  for  producing  new  plants.  By  removing  the  stools 
from  the  ground,  trimming  off  the  leaves  and  roots,  these  stools 
may  be  placed  in  a  horizontal  position  and  covered  with  a  small 
quantity  of  soil.  In  the  course  of  a  few  weeks  to  several  months, 
many  of  the  buds,  one  of  which  is  in  the  axil  of  every  leaf,  will  grow 
into  pineapple  plants.  These  are  removed  from  time  to  time,  as 
they  are  large  enough  for  transplanting.  In  greenhouses  the  same 
operation  may  be  carried  out,  sphagnum  moss  being  substituted 
for  the  soil.  Care  should  be  taken  that  the  temperature  of  the 
propagating-bed,  indoors  or  outdoors,  does  not  reach  a  high  degree. 
It  should  not  reach  90°,  and  it  is  preferable  to  keep  it  in  the  80's. 
Pineapples  do  best  in  those  regions  where  the  annual  temperature  is 
approximately  72°. 

Under  favorable  conditions,  pineapple  plants  will  produce  fruit 
in  eighteen  to  thirty  months  from  the  time  the  rooted  plants  are 
set  out,  varying  with  different  varieties.  Red  Spanish,  which 
is  rarely  grown  in  the  greenhouse,  comes  into  bearing  in 
about  eighteen  months  under  field  conditions.  Porto  Rico  and 
Smooth  Cayenne  require  somewhat  longer  time,  usually  about 
thirty  months. 

The  production  of  seedling  pineapples  may  be  described,  al- 
though practiced  only  for  the  obtaining  of  new  varieties.  In 
Florida  seeds  are  rarely  produced.  This  is  because  there  are 
no  natural  agencies  for  distributing  the  pollen.  The  fruit  from 
the  tropics,  particularly  from  Panama,  frequently  contains  viable 


396  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

seeds.  Hand-pollination  and  cross-fertilization  produce  a  reason- 
able quantity  of  seed.  The  different  varieties  are  readily  cross- 
pollinated,  making  it  possible  to  secure  an  endless  extent  of  varia- 
tion within  the  limits  of  the  different  varieties.  This  seed  can  be 
germinated  readily  under  greenhouse  conditions.  The  method 
of  handling  the  seeds  is  simple.  They  should  be  removed  from  the 
ripe  fruit  and  planted  singly,  preferably  in  thumb-pots,  and  plunged 
in  well-drained  beds.  A  sphagnum-moss  covering  may  be  used  to 
maintain  the  moisture.  As  soon  as  the  seeds  have  germinated,  the 
moss  may  be  removed  and  overhead  watering  discontinued.  Half 
shade  should  be  maintained.  As  soon  as  a  sufficient  growth  has 
been  made,  the  seedlings  may  be  shifted  from  time  to  time  to  larger 
pots.  The  seedlings  are  delicate  and  subject  to  damping-off, 
and  other  adverse  conditions,  but  after  they  are  four  to  six  months 
old  they  become  rather  robust  and  no  great  care  need  be  exercised. 
Over-watering  is  one  of  the  most  fruitful  sources  of  failure  with 
seedlings.  The  most  precocious  seedlings  may  come  into  bearing 
thirty  months  from  the  time  the  seed  was  planted.  As  soon  as 
the  seedlings  come  into  fruiting,  the  multiplication  is  somewhat 
certain  and  rapid.  It  varies  greatly  with  different  individual 
plants.  Usually  those  that  produce  the  smallest  and  poorest 
fruits  have  the  largest  number  of  suckers  and  slips. 

Pinguicula   (Butterwort).     Lentihulariaceoe. 

The  species  mostly  seen  in  collections,  P.  caudata,  is  propagated 
easily  by  leaf -cuttings.  The  leaves  are  broken  clean  from  the  stem 
and  laid  flat  in  pans  of  sand  protected  by  glass,  the  pan  being  placed 
in  a  tray  of  water.  When  the  roots  have  formed,  the  plants  may  be 
potted  off.  All  the  species  may  be  grown  from  seeds  when  these  are 
to  be  had. 

Pink:     Carnation,  Dianthus. 

Pinus  (Pine).     Pinacew. 

Seeds,  which  should  be  kept  dry  over  winter,  are  commonly 
employed.  These  are  often  started  in  pots,  but  for  most  species  they 
are  sown  in  well-prepared  beds  outdoors.  The  seedlings  must  usually 
be  shaded  the  first  season.  Varieties,  as  also  species  that  do  not 
produce  seed  freely,  may  be  grafted  on  stocks  of  white  or  Aus- 
trian pine  or  other  species.  This  grafting  may  be  performed  on  the 
tips  of  growing  shoots  early  in  the  season,  but  it  is  more  often  practiced 
on  potted  plants  by  the  veneer  method.     Pinus  Strobus  should  be 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  397 

used  for  the  five-leaved  species,  and  the  Scotch  or  Austrian  pine 
for  three-leaved  and  two-leaved  species. 

Piper   (Pepper.     Cubeb).     Piperaceas. 

All  pipers  are  increased  by  cuttings  of  the  firm-growing  shoots 
in  sandy  soil  under  glass ;  also  by  seeds  when  they  are  to  be  had. 

Piqueria.     -CompositcB. 

The  common  Piqueria  trinervia  (the  Stcvia  serrata  of  florists)  is 
generally  grown  from  cuttings,  like  fuchsias  and  carnations ;  also 
by  seeds,  which  are  freely  produced,  and  by  division. 

Pistacia.     Anacardiaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  cuttings  and  layers.  The  pistachio-nut, 
pistache,  or  *'  green  almond  "  (P.  vera),  is  grown  from  seeds,  which 
are  planted  where  the  trees  are  to  stand.  Named  varieties  of  the 
pistache  are  often  grafted  on  stocks  of  P.  Terehinthus,  or  budded  on 
them  or  other  stocks  in  the  nursery  row.  The  best  and  most  avail- 
able stocks  for  this  country  are  yet  to  be  determined  by  longer 
trial. 

Pistia.     Arace(B. 

Propagation  is  by  runners,  on  which  new  plants  are  formed. 
See  AraceoB,  page  239. 

Pisum :     Pea. 

Pitcairnia.     Bromeliaceoe. 

Propagation  as  for  billbergia,  which  see. 

Pitcher-Plant :     Nepenthes,  Sarracenia. 

Pithecoctenium.     Bigno7iiaceoe. 

Propagation  as  for  bignonia,  which  see. 

Pittosporum.     Pittosporaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  winter  or  early  spring  in  ordinary 
soil  in  a  cool  greenhouse,  and  by  cuttings  of  the  growing  or  half- 
ripe  wood,  under  glass.  Grafting  is  sometimes  practiced,  P.  u»dul(i- 
tum  being  one  of  the  best  stocks. 

Planera  (Water-Elm).      JJrticaccoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  soon  after  ripening  in  May ;  also  bv 
layers,  and  by  grafting  on  the  elm. 


398  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Platanus  (Plane-Tree.  Buttonwood.  Sycamore,  improperly). 
PlaianaceoB. 
Usually  propagated  by  seeds,  sown  in  spring,  slightly  covered  with 
earth  and  kept  moist  and  shaded,  but  layers,  ripe-wood  cuttings 
and  greenwood  cuttings  under  glass  in  June  taken  with  a  heel  may 
be  employed.  Varieties  may  be  grafted  in  spring  on  seedlings 
of  one  of  the  species. 

Platycerium  (Stag's-Horn  Fern).     Polypodiacew. 

Propagation  chiefly  by  division ;  sometimes  by  spores.  See  Ferns. 

Platyclinis.     Orchidacece. 

Propagated  by  side-growths  from  the  old  pseudobulbs.  When 
no  natural  break  occurs,  the  plants  may  often  be  induced  to  break 
by  slightly  twisting,  or  notching  the  rhizome  with  a  sharp  knife. 
See  Orchids,  page  372. 

Platycodon,  Wahlenbergia.     Campanulaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  and  old  plants  by  division  in  spring  if  care 
is  taken  with  the  fleshy  rootstock. 

Pleione.     Orchidaceoe. 

Propagation  as  for  coelogyne.  See  Orchids,  page  372. 

Plum  (Prunus,  many  species).     Rosacece. 

So  many  species  of  plums  are  in  cultivation,  and  the  varieties  of 
the  same  species  are  often  so  different  in  constitution  and  habit,  that 
it  is  difficult  to  give  advice  concerning  their  propagation.  All  the 
species  grow  readily  from  fresh  well-ripened  seeds.  The  pits  or 
stones  should  be  removed  from  the  pulp  and  then  stratified  until 
spring.  If  they  are  allowed  to  freeze,  the  germination  will  be  more 
uniform,  as  the  pits  will  be  more  easily  opened  by  the  swelling 
embryo.  Plum  pits  are  rarely  cracked  by  hand.  The  strong-growing 
species  and  varieties,  especially  southwards,  will  give  stocks  strong 
enough  to  bud  the  first  season ;  but  the  weaker  ones  must  stand 
until  the  next  season  after  the  seeds  are  planted.  In  all  the  north- 
ern states,  however,  plum  pits  are  usually  sown  in  seed-beds,  in  the 
same  way  as  apple  and  pear  seeds.  The  seedlings  are  taken  up  in 
the  fall,  and  the  following  spring  set  out  in  nursery  rows,  where  they 
are  budded  in  August. 

Plums  are  extensively  grown  from  suckers,  which  spring  in  great 
numbers  from  the  roots  of  many  species.  In  France  this  method  of 
propagation  is  largely  used.  So  long  as  graftage  does  not  intervene, 


THE   NURSKRY-LIST  399 

the  sprouts  will  reproduce  the  variety ;  and  even  in  grafted  or 
budded  trees  this  sometimes  occurs,  but  it  is  probably  because  the 
tree  has  become  own-rooted  from  the  rooting  of  the  cion.  It  is  a  com- 
mon notion  that  trees  grown  from  suckers  sprout  or  sucker  worse 
than  those  grown  from  seeds. 

Layers  are  also  sometimes  employed  for  the  propagation  of  the 
plum.  Strong  stools  are  grown,  and  the  long  and  strong  shoots  are 
covered  in  spring  throughout  their  length  —  the  tips  only  being  ex- 
posed —  and  every  bud  will  produce  a  plant.  Strong  shoots  of  vigor- 
ous sorts  will  give  plants  large  enough  the  first  fall  to  be  removed 
into  nursery  rows.  Mound-layering  is  also  employed  with  good  re- 
sults. 

Root-cuttings,  handled  like  those  of  blackberry,  grow  readily,  but 
some  growers  suppose  that  they  produce  trees  which  sucker  badly. 
Many  plums  grow  readily  from  cuttings  of  the  mature  recent  wood, 
treated  the  same  as  long  grape  cuttings.  This  is  especially  true  of 
the  Marianna  (which  is  a  form  of  myrobalan,  or  a  hybrid  of  it  and 
some  native  plum  of  the  Wild  Goose  type),  which  is  grown  almost 
exclusively  from  cuttings.  Some  kinds  of  the  common  garden  plum 
(P.  domesticd)  also  grow  from  cuttings. 

Plums  are  worked  in  various  ways,  but  ordinary  shield-budding 
is  usually  employed  in  late  summer  or  early  fall,  as  for  peaches  and 
cherries.  Root-grafting  by  the  common  whip  method  is  sometimes 
employed,  especially  when  own-rooted  trees  are  desired.  In  the 
North  and  East,  the  common  plum  (P.  domestica)  is  worked  on 
stocks  of  the  same  species,  and  these  are  always  to  be  preferred. 
These  stocks,  if  seedlings,  are  likely  to  be  very  variable  in  size  and 
habit,  and  sometimes  half  or  more  of  any  batch,  even  from  selected 
seeds,  are  practically  worthless.  Stocks  from  inferior  or  constant 
varieties  are,  therefore,  essential.  Such  stocks  are  largely  imported  ; 
but  some  varieties  can  be  relied  on  in  this  country.  One  of  the 
best  of  these  domestic  stocks  is  the  Horse  plum,  a  small  and  purple- 
fruited  variety  of  Prunus  domestica,  which  gives  very  uniform  seed- 
lings. This  is  sometimes  used  in  New  York.  It  is  simply  a  sponta- 
neous or  wilding  plum,  in  thickets  and  along  roadsides.  The  French 
stocks  in  most  common  use  are  St.  Julien  and  Black  Damas.  The 
myrobalan  (P.  cerasifera),  however,  is  chiefly  used  for  plums, 
because  of  its  cheapness  and  the  readiness  with  which  all  varieties 
take  on  it.  In  large  nursery  centers  it  is  the  prevailing  stock.  In  the 
colder  regions,  P.  americana  stocks  are  used.  The  peach  is  often 
used  as  a  plum  stock,  and  it  is  valuable  in  the  South,  especially  for 


400  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

light  soils.  In  the  North  plum  stocks  are  better.  Marianna  is  used 
southwards,  very  likely  too  freely.  Almond  stocks,  especially  for 
the  French  prune  and  for  light  soils,  are  considerably  used  in 
California.  The  apricot  is  sometimes  employed,  but  results  appear 
to  be  poor  or  indifferent,  on  the  whole.  Prunes,  which  are  varieties 
of  plums,  thrive  on  the  above  stocks  also. 

Various  stocks  dwarf  the  plum.  The  chief  dwarf  stock  at  present 
is  the  myrobalan.  This  is  imported.  It  is  easily  grown  from  seeds, 
or  sometimes  from  cuttings.  Although  the  myrobalan,  like  the 
mahaleb  cherry,  is  a  slow  grower,  the  dwarfing  of  the  top  depends 
more  on  subsequent  pruning  than  on  the  root.  The  mirabelle  (a 
form  of  P.  cerasiferd),  a  foreign  stock,  is  sometimes  used.  The 
many  species  of  native  plums,  of  the  Prunus  americana,  P.  Mmi~ 
soniana  and  P.  anguMifolia  (Chickasaw)  types,  are  good  stocks  for 
dwarf  or  intermediate  trees.  In  most  cases,  the  bud  or  graft  grows 
luxuriantly  for  two  or  three  years,  and  thereafter  rather  slowly. 
It  is  best  to  bud  or  graft  low  on  these  stocks.  Unless  the  tops  are 
freely  and  persistently  headed  in,  however,  dwarf  plum  trees  are 
not  secured.  The  only  exception  to  this  statement  seems  to  be  in 
the  use  of  the  native  dwarf  cherry  stocks  (Prunus  pumila  and  P 
Besseyi),  which  have  been  used  in  an  experimental  way  with  much 
promise. 

The  native  or  American  plums  are  budded  on  native  seedlings,  or 
rarely  on  Prunus  domestica  seedlings ;  or  they  are  grown  from 
cuttings,  as  in  the  case  of  Marianna. 

The  Japanese  plums  {Prunus  salicina,  formerly  called  P.  tri flora) 
are  worked  on  peach,  common  plum,  natives,  or  Marianna.  Peach 
and  Marianna  are  mostly  used,  but  seedlings  of  the  Japanese  kinds 
should  be  preferable.  Peach  is  probably  preferable  to  Marianna. 

Prunus  Simonii  works  on  peach,  common  plum,  myrobalan  and 
Marianna,  chiefly  on  the  first. 

The  ornamental  plums  are  worked  on  the  same  stocks  as  the 
fruit-bearing  sorts.    See  Prunus. 

Plums  (like  cherries)  can  be  top-grafted  the  same  as  apples,  but 
the  cions  must  be  kept  completely  dormant.  It  is  preferable  to 
graft  very  early  in  the  spring. 

Plumbago  (Leadwort).    PlumhagmacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  division  and  cuttings.  The  cuttings  are 
made  from  nearly  mature  wood,  taken  either  in  autumn  from  plants 
growing  in  the  open  or  in  the  spring  from  stock  plants. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  401 

Plumeria.     ApocynaceoB. 

Propagated  by  cuttings,  under  glass,  usually  taken  in  February 
or  March. 

Podocarpus.      TaxacecB. 

Grown  from  cuttings  of  firm  wood  under  cover ;  also  from  seeds ; 
sometimes  grafted  on  the  related  species. 

Podolepis.     Compositw. 

Raised  from  seed,  either  in  April  under  glass  or  later  outdoors. 

Poinciana.     Leguminosce. 
Propagated  by  seeds. 

Poinsettia  (Euphorbia  pulchcrrima) .     EuphorhiacecB. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  growing  shoots,  of  tw^o  or  three  buds 
each,  handled  on  a  cutting-bench  or  in  a  frame.  Many  propagators 
prefer  to  let  the  cuttings  lie  exposed  two  or  three  days  before  setting 
them.  Cuttings  of  ripened  wood  can  be  used  to  good  advantage 
when  the  heat  is  rather  low ;  immerse  cuttings  in  water  as  soon  as 
cut  from  the  old  plants  ;  then  put  them  in  thoroughly  wet  sand  and 
keep  wet  until  rooted.  Many  propagators  prefer  to  cut  to  a  heel. 
Cuttings  taken  early  in  July  should  make  good  midwinter  plant. 

Polemonium.     PoIemoniacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in  fall,  and  by  division. 

Polianthes  (Tuberose).     AmaryUidacecE. 

Increased  by  bulbels  or  offsets.  Remove  these  from  the  parent 
bulb  in  the  fall,  and  keep  in  a  warm  dry  place  until  the  following 
spring.  The  soil  should  be  light,  rich  and  moist  throughout  the 
summer.  Before  frost  comes  in  the  fall,  take  the  bulbs  up,  and  when 
dry,  cut  off  the  leaves.  The  bulbs  should  be  kept  as  during  the  pre- 
ceding winter,  and  the  culture  throughout  the  following  year  is  the 
same  as  during  the  first.  The  bulbs  usually  flower  the  second  or 
third  summer. 

Polygala  (Milkwort).     PolygalaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  fall  or  early  spring ;  tropical  species 
also  by  division,  and  by  cuttings  of  young  shoots  under  cover. 

Polygonum.     Polygonacece. 

Raised  from  seeds.    The  perennials  are  also  easily  increased  by 
division  of  the  rootstocks,  and  by  cuttings. 
2d 


402  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Polypodium  (Polypody).     Polypodiaceoe. 

Propagation  by  division  usually.     See  Ferns,  page  312. 

Polyscias.     Araliacece. 

To  this  genus  are  now  referred  many  of  the  glasshouse  plants 
commonly  known  as  aralias,  others  going  to  the  genus  Dizygotheca. 
They  do  not  seed  under  cultivation.  Propagated  by  cuttings,  eyes, 
pieces  of  the  root  and  grafts,  usually  by  cuttings  of  firm  wood.  The 
cleft  or  wedge  methods  of  grafting  are  usually  employed  ;  they  must 
be  kept  in  a  night  temperature  of  not  less  than  70°,  in  a  tight  moist 
case.  Eye-cuttings  should  be  placed  in  brisk  heat  in  a  propagating- 
bed.  If  the  old  stools  are  put  in  bottom  heat,  they  will  throw  out 
cuttings  which  may  be  removed  with  a  heel  and  started  in  heat. 

Polystichum.     Polypodiacece. 

Propagated  by  spores,  or  by  pinning  down  the  fronds  on  porous 
surface  until  small  buds  are  rooted,  then  detached. 

Pomegranate  (Punica  Granatum).     PuriicaceoB. 

Multiplied  largely  by  seeds,  and  all  varieties  are  increased  by 
hardwood  cuttings  planted  in  open  ground  during  February,  by 
softwood  cuttings  in  summer,  suckers,  layers,  and  scarce  kinds 
by  grafting  on  a  common  sort. 

Poncirus  (commonly  known  as  Citrus  trifoliata).     Rutaceae. 
Propagated  by  seeds.  See  Citrus  and  Orange. 

Populus  (Poplar.  Aspen.  Cottonwood).     Salicaceas. 

Raised  from  seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  and  raked  in,  on  light  soil. 
Suckers  are  also  used.  Most  often  increased  by  cuttings  of  ripe  wood, 
taken  in  fall  and  spring,  as  for  willows.  The  weeping  forms  are 
stock-grafted  on  upright  sorts,  as  on  P.  grandidentata. 

Portulaca  (Purslane.    Rose  Moss).     PortulacacecB. 

The  annuals  are  raised  from  seed.  Varieties  are  sometimes 
propagated  by  cuttings.  The  common  rose  moss  (P.  grandiflora)  is 
grown  from  seed  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  bloom. 

Potato  {Solarium  tuberosum).     SolanacecB. 

Propagated  by  tubers,  either  whole  or  variously  divided.  From 
8  to  20  bushels  of  tubers  are  required  to  plant  an  acre,  depending  on 
how  they  are  cut  and  the  distance  of  planting.  Seed  grows  readily 
(when  seed-balls  are  produced).  It  is  sown  the  following  spring,  and 
small  tubers  will  result,  which  should  be  regularly  planted  the  fol- 
lowing year,  when  still  larger  tubers  will  result ;  these  in  turn  planted 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  403 

should  produce  full-sized  tubers.  Potatoes  are  grown  from  seed  only 
for  the  production  of  new  varieties.  Potatoes  may  be  grown  from 
stem-cuttings,  taken  as  for  geraniums.  The  cutting  will  produce 
one  or  more  small  tubers  underground,  and  these  may  be  grown 
the  same  as  the  small  tubers  raised  from  seeds,  but  new  varieties 
are  not  produced  this  way.     Figs.  101,  102. 

If  the  seed  is  sown  by  April  1  following  maturity,  in  a  hotbed 
or  greenhouse,  and  pricked  out  or  potted  off  when  the  first  true  leaf 
is  developed,  and  transplanted  to  the  open  field  in  the  latter  part  of 
May  or  early  June,  many  of  the  seedlings  will  produce  full-sized 
tubers  the  first  season,  thereby  saving  at  least  one  year's  time  as  it 
is  then  possible  to  determine  whether  they  are  promising  or  not. — 
William  Stuart. 

Potentilla  (Cinq uef oil.     Five-Finger).     Rosaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  layers,  division,  rarely  by  green  cuttings. 

Pothos.     AraceoB. 

Propagation  as  for  philodendron,  by  dividing  the  rooting  stems. 

Primula,  Polyanthus  (Primrose.   Cowslip),     Primulacccp. 

Grown  from  seeds,  sown  carefully  in  very  fine  soil,  under  glass. 
They  may  be  sown  in  February  in  pans  or  fiats  in  a  mixture  of  loam, 
leaf-mold  and  sand,  placed  in  a  warm  greenhouse.  Seeds  may  also 
be  sown  in  a  coldframe  in  April  or  May.  The  seeds  should  be  fresh ; 
old  ones  often  lie  dormant  a  year.  Many  hardy  kinds  are  increased 
by  division,  in  September.   See  Auricula. 

Pritchardia.     PahnacecB. 

Grown  from  imported  seeds.  See  Palms,  page  377. 

Protea.     Proteacew. 

Propagated  by  imported  seeds. 

Prune  {Prunus  domestica).     RosacecB. 

Prunes  are  plums.  The  commercial  product  is  a  dried  plum. 
Propagation  in  all  ways  as  for  other  kinds  of  plums. 

Prunus  (Almond.    Apricot.    Cherry.    Peach.    Plum).     RomcccE. 

The  dwarf  almonds  (Amygdalus)  are  increased  by  seeds,  division, 
cuttings,  and  by  budding  on  seedling  plum  or  peach  stocks  ;  also  by 
root-cuttings.  Peach  stocks  give  larger  trees  at  first  tlian  plum 
stocks,  but  the  trees  are  not  so  long-lived.  Perhaps  ten  years  may  be 
considered  the  average  life  of  most  ornamental  almonds  upon  the 


404  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

peach,  while  on  the  plum  they  may  persist  twenty-five  years  or 
more.    See  Almond. 

The  ornamental  cherries,  peaches,  and  the  like,  are  propagated 
in  essentially  the  same  way  as  the  fruit-bearing  varieties.  P.  Lauro- 
cerasus  and  P.  lusitanica,  the  cherry  laurel  and  Portugal  laurel, 
may  be  propagated  by  short  cuttings  of  ripened  wood,  in  a  cool 
greenhouse  in  autumn.  P.  Pissardii  propagates  by  cuttings  of  the 
soft  wood  and,  with  more  difficulty,  from  cuttings  of  dormant  wood. 
Soft  cuttings  succeed  well  with  many  of  the  double-flowering  plums 
and  cherries,  if  the  wood  is  grown  under  glass.  See  Apricot,  Cherry, 
Peach,  Plum. 

Pseuderanthemum.     Acanthacece. 

Propagated  by  greenwood  cuttings  any  time  from  March  to 
June.  To  this  genus  are  now  referred  the  plants  commonly  known 
as  Eranthemum. 

Pseudolarix  (Golden  Larch).     Pinaceae. 

Should  be  raised  only  from  seeds ;  if  grafted  on  its  own  roots 
or  on  common  larch,  it  rarely  grows  into  a  symmetrical  tree. 

Pseudotsuga.     Pinaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  as  for  abies  and  pinus ;  varieties  may  be 
grafted  on  the  type. 

Psidium :     Guava. 

Psoralea.     LeguminoscB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  divisions  and  cuttings  of  growing  shoots 
under  glass.  The  tuberiferous  species,  as  the  "  pomme  blanche  "  or 
Indian  potato  (P.  esculenta),  are  increased  by  the  tubers  or  divisions 
of  them. 

Ptelea  (Hop  Tree).     Rutaceoe. 

Multiplied  by  seeds,  sown  in  autumn  or  stratified,  and  also  by 
layers.  The  varieties  may  be  grafted  on  the  common  forms  in  spring 
under  glass  or  budded  in  summer  on  seedlings  of  the  type. 

Pteris  (Brake.  Bracken).     PolypodiacecB. 

Easily  grown  from  spores  and  by  division  of  the  rhizomes.  See 
Ferns,  page  312. 

Pterocarya.     Juglandaceoe. 

Handled  by  seeds  sown  in  autumn  or  stratified,  and  by  suckers 
-and  layers. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  405 

Pterostyrax.     StyracaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  layers,  and  greenwood  cuttings  under  glass. 

Ptychosperma :     Archontophoenix. 

Pueraria.     Legumhwsoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  when  procurable,  division  of  the  roots,  and 
cuttings.  The  kudzu  vine  (P.  hirsuta,  known  in  the  trade  as  P. 
Thunbergiana  and  Dolichos  japonicus)  grows  readily  from  seed  and 
may  be  multiplied  by  division  of  the  great  root. 

Pumpkin  (Cucurbita,  three  species).     CucurbitaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  when  the  weather  is  settled ;  frost-tender. 

Punica :     Pomegranate. 

Puschkinia,  Adamsia.     Liliaceoe. 
Propagation  by  bulbels  and  seeds. 

Puya.     BromeliacecB. 

Propagation  as  for  billbergia,  which  see. 

Pyracantha  (often  included  in  Crataegus).     RosaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  by  cuttings  of  ripened  wood  in  fall  under 
glass,  kept  in  winter  in  a  temperate  greenhouse,  by  layers,  and  by 
grafting  on  hawthorn  or  cotoneaster.  Seeds  should  be  treated  as  for 
Crataegus  and  may  not  germinate  the  first  year. 

Pyrethrum.     Compositae. 

The  pyrethrums  are  chrysanthemums  and  are  propagated  as  are 
other  cultivated  members  of  that  genus,  by  seeds  and  cuttings. 
The  common  garden  pyrethrums  grow  readily  from  seeds,  blooming 
the  second  year  or  sometimes  the  first  year  if  started  early  under 
glass.    Increased  also  by  division. 

Pyrola  (Shin  Leaf.    Wintergreen)      PyroIacecB. 

Multiplied  by  division  ,  very  rarely  from  seeds  and  with  difficulty. 

Pyrostegia  {Bignonia  venusta).     Bignoniaceae. 

Propagation  by  seeds  and  cuttings  as  for  bignonia,  which  see. 

Pyrus  (Apple.  Pear).  Rosaceae. 

The  ornamental  species  and  varieties  of  apples  and  crabs  are 
budded  or  grafted  on  common  apple  seedling  stocks.  Layers  and 
green  cuttings  are  occasionally  employed  for  various  species  and 
varieties  of  Pyrus.  See  also  Apple,  Pear.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  obtain 


406  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

stocks  as  nearly  related  to  the  plant  which  is  to  be  propagated  as 
possible ;  e.g.,  Parkman's  pyrus  does  better  on  P.  pulcherrima  {P. 
florihunda)  than  on  the  common  apple  stock.  The  wild  crabs  can  be 
worked  on  the  apple  when  stocks  of  their  own  species  cannot  be 
secured. 


Quamoclit.     ConvohulacecB. 

Propagation  as  for  ipomcea,  which  see.  The  cypress-vine  {Q. 
pinnata)  grows  readily  from  seeds  if  they  are  first  soaked  in  water. 

Quercus  (Oak).     Fagaceae. 

Stocks  are  grown  readily  from  seeds,  which  may  be  sown  in  the 
fall  without  stratification.  Take  care  that  vermin  do  not  dig  up  the 
acorns.  Some  acorns  germinate  in  fall,  sending  down  a  root  but 
producing  no  top  till  spring.  The  evergreen  species  are  sometimes 
grown  from  cuttings  and  layers.  Varieties  are  grafted  on  stocks 
grown  from  wild  acorns.  The  stocks  are  potted  in  the  fall,  and  the 
grafting  (generally  the  veneer-graft)  is  performed  in  January  and 
February,  or  sometimes  in  August.  In  choosing  stocks,  care  should 
be  taken  to  get  related  species. 

Quince  (Cydonia  ohlonga,  and  species  of  Chsenomeles).     Rosacece. 

All  quinces  can  be  grown  from  seeds,  the  same  as  apples  and 
pears ;  but  seeds  are  not  common  in  the  market,  and  are,  therefore, 
little  used.  The  fruit-bearing  quinces  {Cydonia  ohlonga)  are  propa- 
gated most  cheaply  by  means  of  cuttings  of  mature  wood  or  by 
mound-layering.  Cuttings  are  taken  in  the  fall,  and  are  stored  in 
sand,  moss  or  sawdust  until  spring,  when  they  are  planted  outdoors. 
Long  cuttings  —  10  to  12  inches  —  are  usually  most  successful,  as 
they  reach  into  uniformly  moist  earth.  Cuttings  are  usually  made  of 
the  recent  wood,  and  preferably  with  a  heel,  but  wood  two  or  three 
years  old  will  usually  grow.  With  some  varieties  and  upon  some 
soils,  there  is  considerable  uncertainty,  and  layerage  is  therefore 
often  employed.  Mound-layering  (see  page  74)  is  practiced  when 
extra  strong  plants  are  required.  Long  root-cuttings,  treated  like 
those  of  the  blackberry  and  raspberry,  will  also  grow. 

Many  nurserymen  bud-  or  root-graft  the  better  varieties  on  stocks 
of  Angers  or  other  strong  kinds.  These  stocks  are  imported  from 
Europe  (and  are  the  same  as  those  used  for  dwarf  pears).  These 
imported  plants  are  grown  both  from  cuttings  and  mound-layers, 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  407 

the  greater  part  of  them  from  the  latter,  but  seeds  are  occasionally 
employed.  These  stocks  are  two  years  old  when  imported,  having 
been  transplanted  the  first  year  from  the  cutting-bed  or  the  stool- 
yard.  To  secure  extra  strong  plants  and  a  uniform  stand,  some 
growers  graft  quince  cuttings  on  pieces  of  apple  or  pear  roots.  In 
such  cases  the  plants  should  be  taken  up  in  the  fall,  when  the  quince 
will  be  found  to  have  sent  out  roots  of  its  own  ;  the  apple  sprouts  (or 
even  the  entire  root)  should  be  removed,  and  the  quince  replanted 
the  following  spring  in  the  nursery  row,  otherwise  suckers  frequently 
spring  from  the  stock  and  interfere  with  the  growth  of  the  quince. 
The  union  is  sufficient  to  nurse  the  cion  for  two  or  three  years. 

The  flowering  or  Japanese  quince  {ChcFtiomcles  lagenaria)  is  best 
propagated  by  short  root-cuttings,  which  are  usually  made  in  the 
fall,  and  scattered  in  drills  in  frames  or  in  a  well-prepared  border  in 
spring.  Cuttings  of  firm,  nearly  mature  wood,  handled  in  frames, 
will  grow,  but  they  are  not  often  used.  The  double  varieties  are 
root-grafted  on  common  stocks  of  C.  lagenaria  in  winter.  The  plants 
are  then  grown  on  in  pots.  Common  quince  {Cydonia  oblonga)  stocks 
are  occasionally  used,  but  they  are  not  in  favor.  The  Chinese  quince 
(Chcenomeles  sinensis)  is  worked  on  the  common  quince. 

Quisqualis.     ComhretacecB. 

Propagated  by  softwood  cuttings  in  sand  with  bottom  heat ;  by 
seeds  when  obtainable. 


Radicula  :     Horse- Radish,  Water-Cress. 

Radish  (Raphanus  sativus).     Cruciferce. 

Raised  from  seeds,  usually  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  grow. 
In  forcing-houses,  the  young  seedlings  are  often  transplanted  into 
the  beds. 

Ramondia.     Gesneriacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  in  spring,  or  old  plants  by  division. 

Rampion  (Campamda  Rapunculus).     CampanulaceT. 

Grown  from  seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand ;  good 
roots  are  obtained  the  second  year,  although  if  early  sown  it  may 
run  to  seed  the  first  year. 

Randia.     Rubiacece. 

Cuttings  of  the  young  shoots  in  spring  in  sandy  soil  in  heat. 


408  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Ranunculus  (Buttercup.     Crowfoot).     Ranunculacecs. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  and  by  division  of  the  plants  in  spring. 
The  thick-rooted  species  are  propagated  by  the  natural  division 
of  the  tuberous  parts.  After  flowering  and  the  herbage  dies  down, 
the  tuberous  roots  may  be  taken  up,  dried,  and  kept  cool  and  dry 
until  spring;  or  the  plants  may  be  left  in  the  ground  where  the 
winters  are  not  too  severe. 

Raphia.     PalmacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds.     See  Palms,  page  377. 

Raspberry  {Ruhus  sfrigosus,  R.  occidenialis,  etc.).     Rosaceoe. 

New  varieties  are  originated  from  seeds,  which  are  washed  from 
the  pulp  and  sown  immediately,  or  stratified.  Bearing  plants  should 
be  had  the  second  growing  season,  or  perhaps  the  third  season  far 
North. 

The  black-cap  varieties  are  grown  mostly  from  root-tips,  as 
described  on  page  71.  If  the  ground  is  loose  and  mellow,  the  tips 
will  commonly  take  root  themselves,  but  on  hard  ground  the  tip 
may  have  to  be  held  in  place  by  a  stone  or  clod.  Some  strong-grow- 
ing varieties,  as  the  Gregg,  especially  in  windy  localities,  have  to 
be  held  down.  Commercial  growers  commonly  bury  the  tips  in 
early  fall.  Blackcaps  may  also  be  propagated  by  layers  and  by 
root-cuttings.  These  cuttings  are  best  handled  in  warm  coldframes 
or  mild  hotbeds,  being  planted  very  early  in  spring.  By  the  time 
the  weather  is  settled,  they  wdll  be  large  enough  to  plant  in  nursery 
rows. 

The  red  varieties  increase  rapidly  by  means  of  suckers  which 
spring  from  the  roots.  Better  plants  are  obtained  by  means  of 
root-cuttings,  however,  as  described  under  blackberry  (see  also 
Fig.  103).  Commercial  men  propagate  the  reds  by  the  sucker 
method. 

Rehmannia.     ScrophulariacecB. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  growing  wood ;  also  by  seeds,  giving 
bloom  the  second  season. 

Reinwardtia  (Linum,  in  part,  of  gardeners).     Linaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  cuttings  of  strong  shoots  in  heat  and 
divisions  of  old  plants. 

Reseda :     Mignonette. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  409 

Retinospora,  species  of  Chamsecyparis  and  Thuja  (Japanese  Arhor- 
Vitse).     Pinacece. 

The  retinosporas  do  not  constitute  a  distinct  group  of  plants,  })ut 
are  juvenile  forms  in  other  genera.  They  are  grown  sometimes  from 
seeds,  which  should  be  denuded  of  pulp.  Layers  of  tender  branches 
are  sometimes  employed.  Most  commonly  grown  from  cuttings. 
These  are  made  from  tips  of  growing  or  ripened  shoots,  and  are  2  or 
3  inches  long,  with  all  the  leaves  left  on.  They  are  usually,  from 
necessity,  variously  branched.  The  soft  cuttings  are  usually  taken 
from  forced  plants,  and  are  handled  in  a  close  frame  or  under  a  bell- 
glass,  with  bottom  heat.  In  commercial  establishments  the  cuttings 
of  ripe  wood  are  preferred.  Following  is  the  practice  of  one  of  the 
oldest  nurseries  in  the  country :  Cuttings  of  the  entire  season's 
growth,  cut  to  a  heel,  are  taken  in  October  and  November,  and  are 
placed  in  sand  in  boxes  in  gentle  heat,  as  in  a  propagating-house.  By 
February  the  roots  will  be  formed,  and  the  boxes  are  then  placed 
in  a  cool  house  where  the  temperature  is  about  50°.  Early  in  spring 
(about  April  1st)  the  boxes  are  placed  outdoors  in  coldframes,  where 
they  remain  until  May,  until  frost  is  over.  The  boxes  are  then 
removed  from  the  frames  and  are  set  on  boards  in  a  shady  place, 
where  they  are  left  until  fall.  In  the  fall  —  having  been  nearly  a 
year  in  the  boxes  —  the  plants  are  shaken  out  and  are  heeled-in  in  a 
cellar.  The  next  spring  they  are  planted  out  in  beds,  and  during  the 
following  summer  and  winter  they  are  given  some  protection  from 
sun  and  cold.  Yews  and  arbor-vitses  are  handled  in  the  same  way. 
Usually  the  retinosporas  propagate  easily  from  cuttings  taken  in 
autumn  if  given  shade;  good-sized  pieces  root  in  ordinary  soil. 

Retinosporas  are  often  grafted  on  retinospora  or  common  arbor- 
vitse  stocks.  This  operation  is  usually  performed  on  potted  plants 
in  winter  by  the  veneer  method. 

Rhamnus   (Buckthorn).     Rhamnaceae. 

The  hardy  kinds  may  be  increased  by  means  of  seeds  or  by  layers. 
The  greenhouse  species  may  be  multiplied  by  cuttings  of  growing 
parts  in  summer.  Seeds  should  be  stratified  or  sown  in  fall.  Rarer 
kinds  are  sometimes  grafted  on  related  species,  R.  Franguki  and  R. 
cathartica  being  mostly  used  as  stocks. 

Rhapis.     PalmacecB. 

Propagated  by  suckers  which  are  produced  freely,  or  by  imported 
seeds.  See  Palms,  page  377. 


410  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Rheum  (Rhubarb.    Pie-Plant.    Wine-Plant).     Polygonaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  division.  Each  division  should 
contain  at  least  one  bud  or  eye,  with  as  much  rhizome  and  root  as 
possible.  Seeds  may  be  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand,  but  will 
not  reproduce  the  varieties,  and  three  years  are  required  for  the 
plants  to  mature. 

Rhipsalis.     Cadacece. 

Cuttings,  after  having  been  dried  a  few  days,  should  be  inserted 
in  coarse  sand.  See  Cacti,  page  261. 

Rhododendron.     Ericacece. 

Seeds  are  largely  employed,  but  they  are  small  and  light,  and 
must  be  carefully  handled.  They  are  sown  in  spring  in  pans  or 
boxes  in  a  soil  of  sandy  peat,  care  being  taken  to  cover  them  very 
lightly  and  not  to  dislodge  them  when  applying  water.  They  are 
handled  in  coldframes  or  in  a  cool  house,  and  the  young  plants  must 
be  shaded.  The  plants  are  commonly  allowed  to  remain  a  year  in 
the  boxes. 

The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  prepared  boxes,  half  filled  with 
rocks  or  ashes,  on  which  is  placed  a  mixture  of  peat,  leaf  soil  and 
sand ;  on  top  place  a  thin  layer,  about  one-eighth  inch,  of  finely  sifted 
moss.  Water  well  and  sow  the  seed  on  the  top  of  the  moss.  If 
kept  shaded  and  the  moss  never  allowed  to  become  dry,  the  seeds 
germinate  readily  in  about  five  weeks.  Sown  the  third  week  in 
January  they  are  ready  to  transplant  in  a  peaty  mixture  by  June. 
Transplant  about  one  inch  apart  in  boxes  four  inches  deep,  with  a 
slight  drainage  at  the  bottom.  These  plants  will  be  ready  to 
plant  out-of-doors  in  frames  the  following  May.  Three  inches  of 
growth  are  obtained  with  some  species  eight  months  after  the 
seed  is  sown. 

Low-growing  plants  are  often  layered.  Cuttings  of  growing  wood, 
cut  to  a  heel,  are  sometimes  employed,  being  made  in  summer  and 
handled  in  a  frame,  but  the  percentage  of  rooted  plants  is  often  small. 

Rhododendrons  are  extensively  grafted,  the  veneer  method  being 
most  used.  The  operation  is  performed  on  potted  plants  in  late 
summer  or  early  fall,  or  sometimes  in  a  cool  house  in  early  spring. 
Most  of  the  leaves  are  allowed  to  remain  on  the  cion.  The  plants  are 
then  placed  in  densely  shaded  cool  frames  (Fig.  47),  and  are  nearly 
covered  with  sphagnum.  Various  stocks  are  employed,  but  for 
severe  climates  the  hardy  species,  like  R.  catawhiense  and  i?.  maxi- 
mum, are  probably  best.  R.  ponticum  is  extensively  used  in  Europe, 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  411 

but  it  is  not  hardy  enough  for  the  North,  unless  worked  low  and 
planted  deep.   See  also  Azalea. 

Rhodotypos.     Rosacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  by  greenwood  cuttings  under  glass  in  early 
summer,  and  by  hardwood  cuttings. 

Rhubarb :     Rheum. 

Rhus  (Sumac).     A7iacardiaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  fall  or  stratified,  layers,  suckers, 
root-cuttings  and  cuttings  of  green  or  ripe  wood.  Suckers  are 
generally  used. 

Rhynchospermum :   Trachelospermum. 

Ribes  (Currant.     Gooseberry).     SaxifragacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  else 
stratified  for  new  varieties ;  also  by  hardwood  cuttings  in  fall  and 
by  greenwood  cuttings  in  summer  under  glass.  Mound-layering  in 
summer  is  sometimes  practiced.  Budding  or  grafting  is  employed  for 
quick  propagation  of  rare  varieties,  the  common  available  stocks 
being  used.   See  Currant  and  Gooseberry. 

Richardia :    Zantedeschia. 

Ricinus  (Castor  Bean).     Euphorbiacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  which  in  the  North  are  started  indoors  in 
early  spring. 

Rivina.     Phytolaccacece. 

Propagated  readily  by  seeds,  which  are  produced  freely ;  also  by 
cuttings  in  spring  in  heat. 

Robinia  (Locust.    Rose  Acacia).     Leguininosce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  in  fall  or  spring,  and  which  usually 
germinate  better  if  soaked  in  hot  water  previous  to  sowing.  Also 
grown  from  layers,  suckers  and  root-cuttings.  Named  varieties  are 
grafted  or  budded,  the  common  locust  stock  (R.  Psciidacacia)  being 
preferred,  even  for  the  rose  acacia  {R.  hispida).  Dwarf  forms  are 
propagated  by  division  and  other  varieties  by  cuttings  of  mature 
wood  in  fall. 

Rocambole  (Allium  Scorodoprasum) .     LiliacccB. 

Propagated  by  "  cloves,"  which  are  divisions  of  the  bulb. 


412  THE   NURSERY'MANUAL 

Rochea.     Crassulacece. 

Increased  by  cuttings  taken  in  March,  placed  in  sandy  peat  in 
a  night  temperature  of  about  50°. 

Rodgersia.     SaxifragacecB. 

Multiplied  by  division  of  the  plant;  also  by  seeds  when  obtainable. 

Rodriguezia.     OrchidaceoB. 

Increased  by  dividing  the  plant.  See  Orchids,  page  372. 

Rohdea.     Liliaceoe. 

Propagated  by  division,  and  by  seeds  if  they  can  be  had. 

Romneya.     PapaveracecB. 

Propagated  by  suckers  ;  also  by  seeds,  but  a  long  time  is  required. 

Rondeletia.     Rubiacece. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  young  points  of  the  shoots,  placed 
in  sand  in  a  warm  house ;  cuttings  of  half-ripened  wood  do  well. 

Rosa  (Rose).     Rosaceae. 

New  varieties,  and  sometimes  stocks,  are  grown  from  seeds, 
which  are  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  or  kept  in  the  hips  until  spring. 
The  hardy  kinds  are  usually  sown  in  well-prepared  beds  outdoors. 

Roses  are  sometimes  grown  from  layers,  and  often  from  root- 
cuttings,  after  the  manner  of  blackberries. 

The  common  way  of  propagating  roses,  however,  is  by  means  of 
short  cuttings  of  firm  or  nearly  mature  wood,  handled  under  glass, 
with  a  mild  bottom  heat  (65°  or  70°).  They  are  commonly  made  in 
February  or  March  from  forced  plants.  The  cuttings  are  made  in 
various  fashions,  some  persons  allowing  most  of  the  leaves  to  re- 
main, and  some  preferring  to  cut  most  of  them  off,  as  in  Fig.  123. 
They  are  commonly  cut  to  one-bud  lengths,  like  Fig.  125.  Long 
cuttings  of  ripened  wood,  handled  in  a  cool  greenhouse  or  in  frames, 
may  also  be  employed  for  the  various  perpetual  and  climbing  roses. 
For  forcing  under  glass,  cuttings  of  growing  wood  (either  of  the 
"blind"  wood  or  of  the  harder  flower  stems)  are  taken  in  late  winter 
or  very  early  spring,  struck  in  sand  on  benches,  transferred  to  pots, 
later  planted  on  the  benches  and  grown  continuously  in  summer 
and  fall  for  the  winter  bloom. 

Most  growers  feel  that  the  best  plants  are  obtained  from  cuttings, 
but  most  varieties  do  well  when  budded  on  congenial  and  strong 
stocks.  Budding  by  the  common  shield  method  is  considerably 
employed,  and  veneer-grafting  is  sometimes  used  (Fig.  128).    The 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  413 

stocks  are  grown  either  from  seeds  or  cuttings.  A  common  stock  is 
the  manetti,  which  is  a  strong  and  hardy  type,  and  the  resulting 
budded  plant  may  be  used  for  regular  garden  work  or  for  forcing 
under  glass.  The  eyes  should  be  cut  out  of  the  manetti  stock  below 
the  bud,  to  avoid  sprouting.  Because  the  manetti  suckers  badly, 
various  wild  briars  are  much  used  in  Europe.  The  bud  is  often  in- 
serted 2  to  4  feet  high,  making  "  standard  "  roses  (Fig.  127).  These 
are  practically  unknown  in  this  country,  except  as  sparingly  im- 
ported. The  multiflora  rose  is  also  a  good  stock,  especially  for  early 
results.  These  manetti  and  multiflora  stocks  (and  some  others)  are 
imported  from  Europe  as  yearling  cuttings.  For  outdoor  propagat- 
ing, they  are  "  dressed  "  much  like  apple  stocks  (Fig.  132),  and  are 
budded  the  year  in  which  they  are  planted  in  the  nursery  row.  The 
gardener  may  grow  his  own  stocks  of  these  (particularly  of  multi- 
flora)  from  hardwood  cuttings  made  in  spring,  and  these  cuttings 
should  be  fit  for  working  in  the  following  fall  and  winter.  Home- 
grown seedlings  should  be  two  years  old  (unless  very  strong)  before 
they  are  budded.  Hybrid  perpetual  roses  make  excellent  pot  plants 
in  a  short  time  when  winter  grafted,  with  dormant  wood,  upon 
multiflora  stocks.  A  stock  somewhat  used  for  some  of  the  h\  brid 
perpetuals,  with  excellent  results,  is  Rosa  Watsoniana,  a  Japanese 
species.  This  is  a  slender  stock,  and  is  grafted,  not  budded. 
"  Worked  "  roses  are  in  greater  favor  in  Europe  than  in  this  country, 
and  our  various  native  roses  have,  therefore,  received  little  attention 
as  stocks.  The  common  sweet  briar  of  the  roadsides  (which  is  an 
introduced  species)  is  sometimes  used  for  stocks.  R.  Wichuraiaua  is 
easily  propagated  by  long  cuttings  of  year-old  wood  in  the  open  air. 

Rosmarinus  (Rosemary).     Labiatce. 
Increased  by  seeds  and  division. 

Roystonea :   Oreodoxa. 

Rubiaceae.  Rubiads. 

Propagation  of  most  of  the  genera  is  by  cuttings  of  the  partiidly 
ripened  young  wood  in  good  bottom  heat ;  also  by  seed  and  a  few  by 
root-cuttings.  The  herbaceous  kinds  are  increased  by  division  and 
seeds.  As  well  as  ornamental  garden  subjects,  many  of  the  rubi- 
ads are  most  important  economic  plants. 

Rubus   (Bramble).     RosacecB. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  stratified  or  sown  as  soon  as 
ripe.     Divisions  of  the  clump,  natural  stolons,  root-cuttings  and 


414  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

suckers  are  mostly  employed.  The  seeds  of  R.  deliciosus  and  prob- 
ably others  require  two  years  for  germination.  See  Blackberry^ 
Dewberry,  Raspberry,  Wineberry. 

Rudbeckia  (Cone-Flower).     Compositce. 
Handled  by  seeds,  division  or  cuttings. 

Ruellia.     Acanthaceoe. 

Propagated  by  cuttings,  in  light  rich  soil  under  glass,  whenever 
the  shoots  are  firm  enough. 

Ruscus.     LiliacecB. 

Increased  by  root  suckers ;  also  by  seeds,  when  obtainable. 

Russelia.     ScrophulariacecB. 

Green  cuttings  under  glass  is  the  common  method  of  propagation ; 
seeds  may  be  used,  if  to  be  obtained. 

Ruta  (Rue).     Rutaceae. 

Propagated  readily  by  seeds ;  also  handled  by  division  and  cut- 
tings.  For  meadow  rue,  see  Thalidrum. 


Sabal  (Palmetto).     Palmaceoe. 

Handled  by  seeds ;  also  by  suckers,  which  should  be  taken  when 
about  one  foot  long.  If  suckers  have  no  roots,  they  must  be  carefully 
handled.    See  Palms,  page  377. 

Sabatia  (American  Centaury).     GentianaceoB. 

Raised  from  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  thinly  in  pans,  or  in  a 
shady  border  in  fall  or  early  spring ;  also  division  of  old  plants. 

Saccharum :     Sugar-Cane. 

Saccolabium.     Orchidaceoe. 

Propagation  as  for  serides.   See  also  Orchids,  page  372. 

Sage  {Salvia  officinalis).     Labiatce. 

Grown  from  seeds,  sown  in  spring  where  the  plants  are  to  stand ; 
also  by  division  or  layers,  but  seeds  give  better  plants.  Plantations 
of  the  common  aromatic  sweet-herb  sage  should  be  renewed  every 
two  or  three  years.  Good  plants  may  be  grown  from  cuttings.  See 
Salvia. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  415 

Sagittaria  (Arrowhead),     Alismaceos. 

Propagated  by  division,  and  sometimes  by  seeds.  Some  of  the 
species  produce  underground  tubers  that  may  be  used  for  propaga- 
tion. 

Saintpaulia.     Gesneriacece. 

Grown  easily  from  seeds.  Also  from  leaf- cuttings  taken  the  enfl 
of  March  and  inserted  in  sand  bed,  covering  only  small  part  of 
leaf-blade.  Sand  should  not  be  kept  too  wet.  Handled  like 
sinningia  (gloxinia)  except  that  it  is  not  tuber-bearing.  See  Gesne- 
riacece,  page  318. 

Salix  (Willow.    Osier).    Salicacece. 

""  All  the  willows  grow  readily  from  cuttings  of  ripe  wood  of  almost 
any  age.  Cuttings  are  usually  taken  in  autumn ;  they  may  be  put 
in  the  ground  at  once  or  cellared  until  spring.  The  low  and  weeping 
varieties  are  top-worked  on  any  common  upright  stocks.  Kilmar- 
nock (weeping  form  of  Salix  Caprea),  Rosmarinifolia  {S.  incana), 
and  other  named  varieties  are  worked  on  cutting-grown  stocks  of 
S.  Caprea.  Seeds  planted  as  soon  as  the  capsule  opens  may  also  be 
employed ;  if  sown  on  moss  in  pans  or  boxes  and  not  covered,  they 
germinate  readily  and  soon  make  good  plants. 

Salpichroa.     Solanaceoe. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  in  sand,  under  bell- 
glass  ;   also  by  seeds  when  obtainable. 

Salpiglossis.     SolanacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  in  open  air,  or  in  the  North  they  should  be 
started  under  glass  in  spring. 

Salsify  (Vegetable  Oyster) ,  Tragopogon  porrifolius.     Composiiae. 

Raised  from  seeds,  sown  in  spring  where  the  plants  are  to  remain  ; 
hardy ;  plants  may  remain  in  ground  all  winter.  See  also  Scolymus, 
Scorzonera. 

Salvia.     Labiatce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  usually  started  indoors  ;  also  by  soft  cuttings 
under  glass.  The  common  scarlet  sage  {S.  splendent')  although 
perennial  is  treated  as  annual ;  seeds  started  under  glass  or  in  a 
vvindow  in  spring  produce  fine  subjects  for  late  summer  and  fall. 
Some  of  the  salvias  are  annuals.  For  S.  officinalis,  see  Sage. 


416  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Sambucus  (Elder).     CaprifoliaceoB. 

Increased  by  seeds,  handled  like  those  of  raspberries  and  black- 
berries. Named  kinds  are  grown  from  cuttings  of  mature  wood, 
greenwood  or  root-cuttings,  and  by  layers  or  suckers. 

Samphire  {Crithmum  maritimum) .      UmbelliferoB. 
Propagated  by  seed  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  and  by  root-division. 

Sanchezia.     AcanthacecB. 
Cuttings  of  green  wood. 

Sanguisorba  (Burnet).     RosaceoB. 
Increased  by  seeds  and  division. 

Sansevieria.     LiliacecB. 

Propagated  by  division ;  also  by  leaf-cuttings  about  3  inches  long, 
and  by  suckers. 

Sapindus  (Soapberry).     SapindacecB. 

Multiplied  by  seeds,  and  by  hardwood  cuttings  in  early  spring 

Sapium.     Euphorhiaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  or  cuttings ;  the  various  varieties  may  be 
top-grafted  on  seedling  stocks. 

Sapodilla  (Achras  Sapota).     SapotaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  planted  in  shallow  flats  of  light  sandy  soil, 
covering  to  a  depth  of  one-half  inch.  Shield-budding  is  also  prac- 
ticed, to  perpetuate  the  best  varieties  on  common  seedling  stocks, 
May  being  the  best  time  for  the  work  in  Florida. 

Saponaria  (Bouncing  Bet.    Soapwort).     CaryophyllacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  division.  The  hardy  annual  and 
biennial  kinds  may  be  sown  in  the  open  where  the  plants  are  to 
bloom. 

Sarracenia  (Pitcher-Plant.    Side-Saddle   Flower).     SarraceniaceoB. 
Multiplied  by  dividing  the  crowns ;  also  by  seeds,  sown  with 
chopped  sphagnum  on  moist  sandy  muck. 

Sassafras.     LauraceoB. 

Handled  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  by  the  abundant  suckers 
and  by  root-cuttings. 

Satureia  (Savory).     LabiatoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  remain ;  also 
by  division  and  cuttings  of  the  young  growths. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  417 

Satvrium.     OrchidacecB, 
Division  of  the  plants  or  roots  as  new  growth  begins.  See  Orchids. 

Sauroraatum.     Araceae. 

Increased  by  offsets.   See  Araceas,  page  239. 

Saxifraga  (Saxifrage.   Rockfoil).     SaxifragaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  division  and  in  some  species  (as  S.  sarmen- 
fosa,  the  "  strawberry  geranium")  by  runners.  Certain  species 
make  bulblets,  which  propagate  the  plant. 

Scabiosa  (Mourning  Bride.  Pin-Cushion  Plower).  Dipsacaccap. 
Annuals  and  perennials  increased  by  seeds,  usually  sown  in  the 
open,  and  sometimes  by  division.  The  common  annual  flower- 
garden  scabious  {S.  atropurpurea)  is  sometimes  started  indoors 
although  good  results  are  had  by  sowing  out-of-doors. 

Schaueria.     Acanthaceoe. 

Propagated  by  cuttings,  as  for  jacobinia. 

Schinus  (California  Pepper-Tree).     AnacardiaceoB. 

Grown  from  seeds,  which  are  freely  produced.  In  greenhouses, 
cuttings  of  firm  wood  may  be  used. 

Schismatoglottis.     AraceoB. 

Increased  by  division.    See  AracecB,  page  239. 

Schizandra.     Magnoliacece. 

Propagation  is  by  layers ;  by  ripened  cuttings,  which  should  be 
inserted  in  sand  under  glass ;  by  root-cuttings  and  suckers  ;  also  by 
seeds  when  procurable. 

Schizanthus.     SolanaceoB. 

Annuals,  increased  by  seeds  sown  indoors  in  spring.  For  winter 
and  spring  flowering  under  glass,  seed  may  be  sown  in  fall  and 
plants  kept  in  a  light  house. 

Schizophragma.     Saxifragacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  greenwood  cuttings  under  glass,  and  layers 

Schizostylis.     IridaceoB. 

Multiplied  by  seeds  and  by  division. 

Schlumbergeia.     CadacecB. 
Propagation  as  for  zygocactus,  which  see. 
2e 


4:18  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Schomburgkia.     OrchidacecB. 

Propagated  by  parting  or  dividing  the  stems.  See  Orchids^ 
page  372. 

Sciadopitys  (Umbrella  Pine).     PincwecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  layers.  Cuttings  of  the  half -ripened 
shoots,  taken  in  summer  and  inserted  in  sand,  in  heat,  root  readily. 
Seeds,  if  obtainable,  give  best  results. 

Scilla  (Squill).     LiliaceoB. 

Slowly  increased  by  seeds,  but  usually  by  bulbels  or  offsets, 
taken  after  the  foliage  has  matured.  See  Liliaceas,  page  349. 

Scirpus.     CyperaceoB. 

Increased  by  seeds,  suckers  and  divisions. 

Scolymus  (Spanish  Salsify).     Compositce. 

Raised  from  seed  sown  in  spring  w^here  plants  are  to  stand. 

Scorzonera  (Black  Salsify).     Compositce.  » 

Grown  from  seeds,  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand. 

Scutellaria  (Skullcap).     Lahiatoe. 

The  herbaceous  species  are  increased  by  seeds  and  division, 
and  the  shrubby  kinds  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened  shoots  in  spring. 

Seaforthia  elegans:     Archontophoenix. 

Sea-Kale  {Crambc  maritima).     CrucifercE. 

Raised  from  seeds  (globular  pods)  sown  without  being  shelled, 
usually  in  a  seed-bed.  When  the  young  plants  have  made  three  or 
four  leaves,  they  should  be  removed  to  permanent  quarters.  Seed- 
lings should  furnish  crops  in  three  years.  Increased  also  by  root- 
cuttings,  4  or  5  inches  long,  taken  from  well-established  plants. 
These  should  give  plants  strong  enough  for  cutting  in  two  years. 

Sechium  (Chayote).     CucurbitaceoB. 

The  entire  fruit  is  planted  in  early  spring ;  it  contains  one  large 
seed. 
Sedum  (Orpine.   Stonecrop).     CrassulaceGB. 

Handled  by  seeds,  by  division  of  the  tufts,  by  cuttings  of  stems 
or  leaves  in  spring.  Pieces  of  the  plant  usually  grow  readily,  as 
cuttings.  Some  of  the  kinds  produce  offsets. 

Selaginella.     SelaginellaceoB. 

Propagated  by  spores,  as  for  ferns  (which  see)  and  by  short 
cuttings,  inserted  in  early  spring,  in  Dots  or  pans.   The  cuttings  of 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  4l9 

S.  Emmeliana  (one  of  the  best  kinds)  should  be  scattered  thinly 
over  the  surface  of  the  soil,  covered  with  glass  and  kept  in  tempera- 
ture of  70° ;  they  will  soon  form  roots  and  little  plants  at  almost 
every  joint. 

Selenicereus.     Cax;tacecB.  , 

For  propagation,  see  Cacti,  page  261. 

Selenipedium :   Phragmopedilum;  see  Orchids,  page  372. 

Sempervivum  (Houseleek).     Crassulacece. 

Readily  increased  by  seeds,  and  by  the  young  plants  (offsets) 
that  cluster  around  the  base. 

Senecio   (Groundsel.     Ragweed).     Compositce. 

A  multifarious  group  of  annual  and  perennial  herbs  and  sub- 
shrubs.  Seeds  usually  are  freely  produced  and  grow  readily.  The 
perennials  may  be  divided.  Stem-cuttings  and  root-cuttings  may 
be  used.  German  ivy  {Senecio  mikanioides)  is  easily  multiplied  by 
cuttings  of  the  running  shoots. 

Sequoia,  Wellingtonia  (Redwood).     Pinacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  handled  in  a  frame  or  half-shady  place  or  by 
layers,  and  cuttings  treated  like  those  of  retinospora  and  yew.  The 
redwood  {S.  sempervirens)  reproduces  itself  in  nature  by  stump- 
sprouts  as  well  as  by  seeds  ;  the  big  tree  (iS.  gigantea)  only  by  seeds. 

Serissa.     RubiaceoB. 

Handled  by  cuttings,  under  glass  ;  by  seeds,  when  procurable. 

Sesamum  (Bene).     Pedaliaceoe. 

Grown  from  seeds,  sown  under  glass,  or  in  the  South  in  the  open 
border. 

Sesbania.     Leguminosoe. 

The  annuals  increased  by  seeds;  the  shrubby  kinds  by  firm 
cuttings  under  glass. 

Shallot  {Allium  ascalonicum) .     Liliacece. 

Grown  from  '*  cloves,"  formed  bv  the  breaking  up  of  the  main 
bulb. 

Shepherdia.     EloeagnaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  the  fall  or  stratified  until  spring 
See  Buffalo-berry. 


420  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Shortia.     DiapensiaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  when  they  can  be  collected,  by  division 
and  runners. 

Sibiraea.     Rosaceae. 

As  for  spiraea,  with  which  it  is  frequently  united :  seeds  and 
layers. 

Sicana.     CucurbitaceoB. 
Annual  frost-tender  vines,  grown  from  seeds. 

Silene  (Campion.    Catchfly).     CaryophyllaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  division  and  cuttings.      Seeds  are  some- 
times sown  in  autumn,  of  the  annual  kinds,  to  insure  early  bloom. 

Silphium  (Rosin  Plant.    Compass  Plant).     CompositcB. 
Multiplied  readily  by  seeds  and  by  division. 

Sinningia.     GesneriacecB. 

The  only  well-known  member  of  the  group  is  the  gloxinia  of 
horticulturists,  which  see. 

Sisyrinchium  (Blue-Eyed  Grass).     IridaceoB. 
Increased  in  spring  by  seeds  and  by  division. 

Skimmia.     Rutaceoe. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  in  fall  or  stratified,  in  a  frame ;  also  by 
layers,  and  by  firm  cuttings  in  heat. 

Skirret  iSium  Sisarum).      UmbellifercB. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  in  spring  or  fall,  offsets,  or  division  of 
the  plants. 

Smilax  (Green-Briar).     LiliaceoB. 

Young  plants  are  obtained  by  seeds,  by  layers,  and  by  division. 
For  "  smilax"  or  Boston-vine  of  florists,  see  Asparagus,  page  244. 

Snapdragon :     Antirrhinum. 

Sobralia.     OrchidacecB. 

Grown  by  division  of  strong  plants  when  repotting.   See  Orchids. 

Solandra.     Solanacece. 

Multiplied  by  seeds  sown  in  spring ;  by  cuttings  of  firm  young 
shoots  taken  with  a  heel  and  placed  in  slight  bottom  heat. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  421 

Solanum.     Solanacece. 

The  annuals,  and  most  of  the  other  species,  are  raised  from  seeds 
sown  where  plants  are  to  stand,  or  the  foliage  kinds  started  indoors. 
The  Jerusalem  cherry  (S.  Pseudo-capsicum)  is  grown  readily  from 
seeds  ;  also  from  cuttings.  The  tuberous  kinds  may  be  increased  by 
tubers,  or  division  of  them.  The  greenhouse  shrubby  plants  may  be 
propagated  by  softwoo^  cuttings  in  a  frame.   See  Potato,  Eggplant. 

Soldanella.     Primulaceae. 

Propagated  by  seed  and  division. 

Solidago  (Goldenrod).     CompositcB. 

Readily  grown  from  seed,  blooming  the  second  year.  Mature 
plants  may  be  divided  in  fall  or  spring. 

Sollya.     PittosporacecB. 

Propagated  freel}^  by  seeds,  and  by  cuttings  in  sand  under  glass. 

Sonerila.     Melastomaceas. 

Multiplied  by  seeds  ;  also  by  cuttings  in  a  frame  in  a  house.  Also 
increased  by  leaves,  giving  the  same  treatment  as  for  bertolonia. 

Sophora.     LeguminbscB. 

Increased  by  seeds,  layers  and  cuttings  of  either  ripened  or  green 
wood.  The  named  varieties  are  grafted  on  common  stocks. 

Sophronitis.     OrchidaceoB. 

Propagated  by  division,  just  as  growth  begins.  See  Orchids, 
page  372. 

Sorbaria.     Rosaceoe. 

Propagated  by  hardwood  cuttings,  root-cuttings,  suckers  and 
seeds,  as  for  spiraea,  with  which  the  group  is  sometimes  united. 

Sorbus.     RosacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  fall  or  stratified,  and  by  layers. 
Varieties  are  budded  or  grafted  on  allied  species,  usually  S.  Aucu- 
paria,  S.  amcricana,  and  even  on  hawthorn.  Sorbus  is  a  polymor- 
phous group,  including  the  mountain  ashes  and  service  trees. 

Sorghum :     Ilolcus. 

Sorrel  (Rumex,  several  species).     PolygonaccGB. 

Multiplied  by  seeds  and  division.  The  cultivated  kinds  are  grown 
as  pot-herbs. 


422  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Soybean  {Glycine  Soja).     Leguminosas. 

Grown  from  seeds  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  stand;  frost- 
tender.  Two  to  three  pecks  of  seed  are  required  for  an  acre  in  drills, 
and  a  bushel  or  more  broadcast. 

Sparaxis.     Iridacece. 

Propagation  is  usually  by  offsets  ;  also  by  seeds. 

Sparmannia.     Tiliaceae. 

Handled  by  cuttings  of  half -ripened  wood,  as  tips  of  young 
shoots,  in  spring. 

Spartium.     Leguminosoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  greenwood  cuttings  under  glass. 

Spathiphyllum.     Aracece. 

Propagated  mostly  by  division  of  the  rootstocks ;  also  by  seeds 
when  procurable.     See  Araceos,  page  239. 

Specularia  (Venus'  Looking-Glass).     CampanulaceGB. 

The  common  annual  specularias  are  easily  grown  from  seeds 
sown  where  the  plants  are  to  bloom,  or  they  may  be  started  indoors. 

Sphaeralcea  (Globe  Mallow).     Malvacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  ;  by  greenwood  cuttings. 

Sphaerogyne :     Tococa. 

Spinach  {Spinacia  oleracea).     ChenopodiaceoB. 

Raised  from  seeds,  sown  usually  where  the  crop  is  to  stand,  either 
in  fall  or  spring.  Sometimes  started  in  hotbeds  for  early  crop, 
and  transplanted  to  field  or  allowed  to  mature  in  the  frame.  The 
plant  is  hardy,  and  in  the  intermediate  climates  will  stand  in  field 
over  winter  if  six  to  nine  weeks  old  when  freezing  weather  sets  in. 

Spiraea.     Rosaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  or  stratified  till  spring. 
Commonly  increased  by  cuttings,  either  of  mature  or  green  wood. 
Green  cuttings  usually  make  the  best  plants.  These  are  made  in 
summer  and  handled  in  frames.  Some  sorts  are  grown  from  layers  in 
spring.  The  herbaceous  kinds  are  often  increased  by  division,  but 
these  kinds  are  now  referred  to  other  genera,  as  Fihpendula  and 
Aruncus.  Plants  forced  in  winter  give  excellent  cutting-wood,  which 
should  be  taken  when  the  growth  is  completed.  Genera  formerly 
included  in  Spiraea  are  Chamaebatiaria,  Holodiscus,  Physocarpus, 
Sibiraea,  Sorbaria,  and  others. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  423 

Spondias  (Hog-Plum.     Otaheite-Apple  or-Plum).     Anacardiaccae. 
Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  flats  of  light  soil,  covering  to  a  depth 
of  1  inch ;  by  cuttings  of  growing  wood. 

Sprekelia.     AmaryllidacecB. 

By  offsets  from  the  bulbs  ;  also  by  seeds  when  obtainable,  as  for 
amaryllis,  which  see. 

Spurry  {Spergida  sativa).     CaryophyllacecB. 

Seeds,  sown  where  plants  are  to  grow ;  for  broadcast  field  cultiva- 
tion, 6  to  8  quarts  are  sown  to  the  acre ;  annual,  tending  to  become 
a  weed. 

Squash  (Cucurbita,  three  species).     CucurbitaceoB. 
Propagated  by  seeds,  when  the  weather  becomes  warm. 

Stachys,  Betonica  (Hedge  Nettle.    Woundwort).     LahiatoE. 

Multiplied  by  seeds,  divisions  or  cuttings ;  some  species  (as  the 
crosnes,  chorogi,  S.  Sieboldii)  increased  by  subterranean  tubers. 

Stanhopea.     Orchidaceoe. 

Increased  by  division  of  the  old  roots.   See  also  Orchids,  page  372. 

Stapelia  (Carrion  Flower).     Asclepiadaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  when  procurable ;  commonly  by  cuttings  in 
heat. 

Staphylea  (Bladder-Nut).     StaphyleacecB. 

Increased  by  seeds,  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  or  stratified  until  spring  ; 
by  suckers,  layers,  and  cuttings  of  roots  and  of  mature  wood  ;  also 
by  greenwood  cuttings  from  pot-grown  plants. 

Statice  (Sea-Lavender.    Sea-Pink).     Plumbaginacccp. 

The  limoniums  are  now  included  in  Statice.  The  genus  com- 
prises annual,  biennial  and  perennial  herl)s.  All  are  grown  from 
seeds,  and  the  perennials  also  by  division  of  the  clumps.  Certain 
showy  species  are  sometimes  grown  under  glass,  and  these  may  be 
increased  by  cuttings.  Recent  writers  define  Statice  as  comprising 
Armeria,  while  the  statices  of  gardens  (with  open  inflorescence)  be- 
come Limoniums ;  propagation  similar  for  all. 

Staurostigma  (Asteriostigma).     Araceae. 

Raised  from  seeds  in  heat ;  also  by  division  of  tubers.  See  Araceoe, 


424  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Stenotaphrum  (St.  Augustine  Grass).     Graminece. 

Propagation  is  mostly  by  cuttings  or  parts  of  the  creeping 
rhizomes. 

Stephanotis.     AsclepiadacecB. 

Multiplied  by  seeds  when  obtainable ;  also  by  cuttings  of  half- 
ripe  wood  in  spring  or  at  other  times  under  a  frame  in  the 
greenhouse. 

Sterculia.     SterculiaceoB. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  by  ripened  cuttings.  The  commonest 
species,  S.  platanifolia  but  preferably  to  be  called  Firmiana  simplex, 
seeds  freely  in  the  southern  states ;  it  is  the  Japanese  varnish  tree. 

Stembergia.     Amaryllidaceoe. 

Increased  by  offsets  ;  also  by  seeds  when  they  can  be  obtained. 

Stewartia  (Stuartia).      TernstrwmiacecB. 

Grown  by  seeds  sown  soon  after  maturity ;  also  by  layers,  and 
by  cuttings  of  various  degrees  of  maturity  under  cover  in  summer. 

Stigmaphyllon .     Malpighiaceoe. 

Propagates  well  by  means  of  firm  cuttings  in  autumn ;  seeds  may 
be  employed,  if  obtainable. 

Stillingia.     EuphorbiaceoB. 

Easily  handled  by  imported  seeds  or  by  cuttings  placed  in  sand 
in  heat. 

Stipa.     GramineoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  or  by  division  of  established  plants. 

Stizolobium :     Velvet  Bean. 

Stocks :     Matthiola. 

Stokesia.     Compositoe. 

Grown  from  seeds  and  by  division ;  blooms  second  year  from  seed. 

Strawberry   (Fragaria).     Rosacece. 

New  kinds  are  produced  from  seeds,  which  are  usually  sown  as 
soon  as  the  berries  are  dead  ripe.  The  berries  are  crushed  and  the 
seeds  separated  by  rubbing  the  pulp  in  dry  sand,  which  is  then  sown 
with  the  seeds. 

Varieties  are  commonly  increased  by  offsets,  or  plant?  formed  at 
the  joints  of  runners.  These  runners  appear  after  the  fruit  is  off 
(Fig.  58).  The  ground  should  be  soft  and  somewhat  moist,  to  enable 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  425 

the  young  plants  to  obtain  a  foothold.  Plants  strong  enough  for  set- 
ting are  obtained  in  August  and  September  of  the  same  year  in  which 
they  start.  Ordinarily,  the  runners  will  take  root  without  artificial 
aid  ;  but  in  hard  soils,  or  with  new  or  scarce  varieties,  the  joints  are 
sometimes  held  down  with  a  pebble  or  bit  of  earth,  or  are  bedded  in 
—  the  tips  inserted  into  the  ground  —  with  a  trowel.  The  runners 
from  a  bed  that  has  borne  fruit  are  not  likely  to  be  as  vigorous  and 
desirable  as  runners  from  maiden  plants  —  those  that  have  not  yet 
fruited.  New  varieties  are  often  propagated  throughout  the  season 
from  plants  that  are  highly  cultivated,  and  which  are  not  allowed 
to  fruit.  In  commercial  propagation,  the  ratio  of  increase  of  differ- 
ent varieties  is  from  fifteen  to  forty  strong  runners  from  one  plant 
set  in  the  spring.  Very  strong  plants  are  obtained  by  growing  them 
in  pots.  A  3-inch  pot  is  sunk  below  the  runner,  preferably  one  from 
a  maiden  plant,  and  the  joint  is  held  upon  it  by  a  stone  or  clod. 
The  runner  is  then  pinched  off,  to  prevent  further  growth,  and  to 
throw  all  its  energy  into  the  one  plant.  The  pot  should  be  filled  with 
soft  rich  earth.  Shouldered  pots  are  best,  because  they  can  be 
raised  more  easily  than  others,  by  catching  the  spade  or  trowel 
under  the  shoulder.  The  plants  will  fill  the  pots  in  three  or  four 
weeks,  if  the  weather  is  favorable.  Old  tin  fruit-cans,  which  have 
been  heated  to  remove  the  bottoms,  old  berry  boxes  and  small 
squares  of  inverted  sod  can  also  be  used. 

Cuttings  of  the  tips  of  runners  are  sometimes  made  and  handled 
in  a  frame,  as  an  additional  means  of  rapidly  increasing  new  kinds. 
These  cuttings  may  be  the  cast-away  tips  left  from  the  heading-in 
or  checking  of  the  runners. 

Propagation  by  division  of  the  old  crown  is  practiced  only  to 
save  the  stock  of  a  rare  variety  that  is  threatened  with  extinction 
and  with  varieties  that  make  few  or  no  runners,  as  the  bush  Alpines 
and  Pan-American. 

For  forcing  strawberries  under  glass,  the  first  strong  runners  of 
the  season  are  rooted  in  2-inch  or  3-inch  pots  plunged  under  them, 
being  sure  that  the  pots  contain  soil  of  prime  quality.  As  soon  as 
the  pots  are  filled  with  roots  they  are  lifted,  and  the  plants  are 
transferred  to  the  6-inch  pots  in  which  they  are  to  fruit.  These 
fruiting  pots  are  then  plunged  to  the  rim  in  coal  ashes  or  other 
material  that  will  maintain  uniform  conditions  in  the  pot  and  yet 
not  allow  the  plants  to  root  through  the  bottom.  The  plants 
should  be  well  rooted  in  the  pots,  and  with  strong  crowns,  when 
ripened  in  fall,  preparatory  to  the  winter  forcing. 


426  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Strelitzia  (Bird-of-Paradise  Flower).     Musacece. 

Grown  by  seeds,  which  usually  are  produced  only  when  flowers 
are  artificially  pollinated ;  more  commonly  by  suckers,  and  some- 
times by  division  of  the  plant. 

Streptocarpus  (Cape  Primrose).     GesneriaceoB. 

Readily  propagated  by  seeds  and  by  division;  also  by  leaf- 
cuttings.  Seeds  should  not  be  covered  too  deep,  and  put  in  open 
sunny  place  in  intermediate  temperature.  See  GesneriaxieoB,  page  318. 

Streptosolen.     SolanacecB. 

Propagated  by  cuttings,  much  as  for  geraniums. 

Strobilanthes,  including  Goldfussia..    Acanthacew. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  cuttings,  the  latter  taken  of  green  wood 
and  started  under  glass. 

Styrax  (Storax).     StyracacecB. 

Raised  from  seeds,  which  must  be  stratified,  or  else  sown  as  soon 
as  ripe.  They  usually  lie  dormant  the  first  year.  Also  increased  by 
layers  and  some  species  by  cuttings  of  green  wood.  They  can  be 
grafted  on  other  storaxes,  or  on  Halesia  Carolina. 

Sugar-Cane  {Saccharum  officinarum) .     Gramineoe. 

Increased  by  cuttings  of  the  stems.  The  cuttings  should  have  a 
node  or  joint  which  bears  one  or  more  good  buds.  These  cuttings 
are  planted  directly  in  the  field,  and  the  plants  will  reach  maturity 
in  two  or  three  months.  Propagation  by  seeds  was  once  supposed 
to  be  impossible,  but  it  is  now  so  raised  in  Cuba,  and  in  the  British 
West  Indies,  where  the  plant  produces  seed. 

Sunflower  (Helianthus  sp.).     Composifce. 

The  common  garden  and  field  sunflower  is  raised  from  seeds 
planted  where  the  plant  is  to  grow.  Perennials  are  also  grown  from 
seeds  as  well  as  by  division.  Some  species  increase  naturally  by 
rhizomes  and  tubers.   See  Helianthus;  also  Artichoke  (Jerusalem). 

Swainsona.     Leguminosoe. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  ;  those  taken  in  late  winter  bloom  in  sum- 
mer ;  for  winter  bloom  cuttings  may  be  made  in  spring  and  summer. 

Sweet  Pea  (Lathy rus  odoratus).     Leguminosoe. 

Raised  from  seed,  sown  either  in  fall  or  spring  where  the  plants 
are  to  be  grown,  or  rarely  in  pots  and  transplanted  to  the  open  for 
early  bloom  or  special  varieties.  For  winter  blooming  under  glass  a 


THE  NURSERY-LIST  427 

special  strain  or  race  has  been  developed ;  seeds  started  in  Septem- 
ber give  blooming  plants  before  Christmas  if  the  growing  conditions 
are  right.    See  Lathy r us. 

Sweet  Potato  (Ipomoea  Batatas).     Convolvulaceoe. 

Sweet  potato  plants  do  not  seed ;  they  are  grown  in  hotbed^, 
coldframes  or  forcing-houses  (depending  on  the  latitude)  from  sountl 
tubers  of  medium  size.  The  tuber  is  laid  on  a  sandy  or  other  loose 
bed,  and  is  then  covered  with  sand  or  sandy  loam  to  a  depth  of  1  or 
2  inches.  Sometimes,  to  guard  against  rot,  the  tubers  are  not 
covered  until  the  sprouts  begin  to  appear.  The  tubers  may  be  laid 
thickly  on  the  bed,  but  they  are  less  likely  to  rot  if  they  do  not  touch 
each  other.  Sometimes  the  tubers  are  cut  in  two  lengthwise,  the  cut 
surface  being  placed  down,  in  order  to  place  all  the  plant-giving 
surface  uppermost.  In  four  or  five  weeks  the  young  plants  —  3 
to  5  inches  high  —  are  pulled  off  and  planted,  and  others  soon  arise 
to  take  their  places.  One  hand  should  be  held  firmly  on  the  soil 
over  the  tuber,  while  the  sprout  is  pulled  off,  to  keep  it  in  place. 
Three  or  four  crops  of  sprouts  may  be  obtained  from  each  tuber. 

Sweet  "William  (Dianthus  barbatus).     CaryophyllaceoB. 

Raised  from  seeds,  sown  indoors  or  in  the  border,  and  by  division 
of  the  plants.  Best  results  are  obtained  by  starting  new  seedlings 
every  other  year. 

Symphoricarpos  (Snowberry.    Indian  Currant).     CaprifoUacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  handled  like  those  of  blackberries ;  also  by 
suckers,  divisions  and  both  hardwood  and  greenwood  cuttings. 

Symphytum  (Comfrey).     Boraginacece. 

Increased  by  seeds  and  by  division ;  also  easily  by  root-cuttings. 

Symplocos.     Symplocaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  cuttings  of  green  wood  under  glass,  and 
layers.  Seeds  usually  germinate  the  second  year. 

Syringa  (Lilac).     Oleaceae. 

New  varieties  and  stocks  are  grown  from  seeds,  which  are  usually 
stratified  until  spring ;  and  the  main  specific  types  are  sometimes 
grown  in  quantity  this  way.  Green  cuttings,  handled  in  frames 
in  spring  and  summer,  are  largely  used.  Cuttings  of  mature  wood 
will  grow ;  also  cuttings  of  the  roots.  Layers  and  suckers  are  often 
employed.  Varieties  are  extensively  grafted  or  budded  on  privet 
(Ligustrum)   and  common  lilacs.     Flute-budding  is  occasionally 


428  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

employed.  Lilacs  will  grow  for  a  time  when  worked  on  the  ash. 
Grafting  succeeds  when  performed  in  the  open  air.  Grafting  (veneer 
method)  is  usually  a  spring  operation  and  budding  a  summer  opera- 
tion.    The  "  syringa  "  of  common  speech  is  Philadelphus. 


Tabemaemontana.     ApocynacecB. 
Propagated  by  greenwood  cuttings. 

Tagetes  (Marigold).     Compositce. 

Grown  from  seeds,  sown  either  indoors  or  out ;  hardy  annuals 
as  known  in  flower-gardens.   The  pot  marigold  is  Calendula. 

Tamarindus  (Tamarind).     LeguminosoB. 

Commonly  grown  from  seeds.  Varieties  may  be  layered  by  the 
so-called  Chinese  or  gootee  method  (air-layering),  and  probably 
by  shield-budding  on  common  seedling  stocks. 

Tamarix  (Tamarisk).      TamaricaccoB. 

Generally  increased  by  ripe  cuttings  in  the  open  or  by  green- 
wood cuttings  under  glass ;  also  by  seeds,  which  should  be  only 
slightly  covered. 

Tangelo.     RutacecB. 

Hybrids  of  tangerine  and  pummello,  propagated  as  for  citrus. 

Tansy  (Tanacetum).     Compositoe. 

Propagated  readily  by  dividing  the  old  clumps. 

Tare :    Colocasia. 

Tarragon  {Artemisia  Dracuncuhis).     CompositoB. 

An  aromatic  perennial  herb,  multiplied  chiefly  by  division  oi 
cuttings  of  old  and  green  wood.  Seeds  may  be  used,  but  are  not 
often  produced. 

Taxodium  (Bald  Cypress).     PinacecB. 

Seeds  sown  in  spring  are  usually  employed.  Layers  and  cuttings 
of  young  wood  in  wet  sand,  or  even  water,  under  cover,  are  also  used. 
The  varieties  may  be  veneer-grafted  in  spring  on  T.  distichum. 

Taxus  (Yew).      Taxacew. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  when  gathered  or  else  stratified 
(germinating  second  year) ;  also  by  layers  and  cuttings  of  green 
wood  under  glass  in  summer,  or  of  mature  wood,  as  recommended 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  429 

for  retinospora  (chamsecyparis).  The  named  varieties  are  veneer- 
grafted  in  winter  under  glass  or  sometimes  in  spring  or  early  fall 
on  the  upright  kinds.  Cuttings  usually  produce  shrubby  rather 
than  arboreous  forms.     Fig.  96. 

Tea :     Thea. 

Tecoma.     Bignoniaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  greenwood  cuttings  under  glass.  See 
Campsis,  to  which  the  trumpet-creeper  is  now  referred  by  many 
authors. 

Tecomaria.     Bignoniaccce. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  cuttings  under  glass  in  sprmg  or  mid- 
summer, as  for  bignonia  and  campsis. 

Telanthera :  Altcrnanthcra. 

Terminalia  (Tropical  Almond).     CovibretacecB. 
Propagated  by  the  large  seeds. 

Temstroemia,      TernsfroemiacecB. 

Grown  from  seeds,  and  from  partially  ripe  cuttings. 

Testudinaria  (Elephant's  Foot).     DioscoreacecB. 

Grown  from  imported  roots  or  seeds.  A  long  time  is  required 
to  grow  plants  of  any  size  from  seeds. 

Tetragonia  (New  Zealand  Spinach).     Aizoacece. 

Grown  from  seed ;  for  outdoor  planting  started  in  January  or 
February  indoors ;  for  a  forcing-house  crop  sown  in  July.  Some- 
times sows  itself  in  the  South. 

Tetrapanax.     Araliacece. 

The  plant  usually  known  as  Fatsia  papyrifera  is  better  called 
Tetrapanax  papyriferum :  propagated  by  seeds  when  these  can  be 
obtained,  and  by  greenwood  cuttings  under  glass. 

Teucrium   (Germander).     Labiatce. 

Grown  from  seed  as  are  other  herbaceous  perennials ;  also  by 
division  of  the  plants  or  of  slender  rhizomes. 

Thalictrum  (Meadow  Rue).     Ranunculaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  and  more  commonly  division  of  the  roota 
in  early  spring. 


430  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Thea  (Tea).     Ternsiroemiacece  or  Theacew. 

Propagation  as  for  camellia,  which  see.  As  grown  in  the  southern 
United  States,  the  tea  plant  of  commerce  is  raised  from  seeds 
sown  in  late  winter  or  early  spring  in  nursery  rows,  the  plants  being 
transferred  to  the  plantation  when  a  foot  or  more  high. 

Thelesperma.     CompositcB. 

One  flower-garden  annual  is  commonly  grown,  as  Cosmidium 
Burridgeanum,  supposed  to  be  a  hybrid  of  T.  trifidum  and  a  core- 
opsis :  readily  raised  from  seeds  sown  directly  in  the  open  or  indoors 
and  transplanted. 

Theobroma  (Chocolate-Tree).     Stercidiaceoe. 

Chiefly  important  as  including  T.  Cacao,  the  source  of  cocoa  and 
chocolate ;  propagated  by  seeds  sown  before  being  dried. 

Thespesia.     Malvacew. 
Grown  from  the  seeds. 

Thevetia.     Apocynacece. 

Propagated  by  seed,  or  in  the  greenhouse  by  cuttings.  T.  nerei- 
folia  is  the  '*  yellow  oleander"  of  Florida. 

Thrinax.     PalmaceoB. 

Propagation  by  seeds  in  heat.  See  Palms,  page  377. 

Thuja,  including  Biota  (Arbor- Vitse.  White  Cedar,  erroneously). 
PinaceoB. 
Propagated  by  seeds,  which  should  be  gathered  as  soon  as  ripe  (in 
the  fall)  and  stratified  or  sown  at  once  ;  shade  the  seedlings  the  first 
year.  Also  increased  by  layers,  cuttings  of  green  shoots  in  summer 
in  a  cool  frame  and  cuttings  of  ripe  wood,  as  recommended  for 
retinospora.  The  named  varieties  are  often  grafted  on  potted  com- 
mon stocks  in  winter  or  earlv  fall. 

Thujopsis.     Pinacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  cuttings  and  grafting,  as  for  thuja. 

Thunbergia.     AcanthacecB, 

The  flower-garden  plant  usually  treated  as  an  annual  (T.  alata) 
grows  readily  from  seeds.  It  is  also  grown  under  glass,  as  are  other 
species,  from  seeds  and  by  cuttings  taken  from  shoots  after  the 
plant  has  been  cut  back  in  winter,  as  for  allamanda. 


THE  NURSERY-LIST  431 

Thunia.     Orchidacece. 

As  the  form  of  the  pseudobulbs  suggests,  this  genus  is  easily 
propagated  by  cuttings.  These  are  made  about  6  inches  long  and 
inserted  in  pots  of  sand.  After  standing  in  an  ordinary  propagating- 
frame  or  moist  greenhouse  for  a  short  time,  young  growths  will 
appear  at  the  nodes.  When  large  enough,  they  are  taken  up  and 
potted  in  ordinary  compost.  Two  years,  at  least,  are  needed  for 
them  to  attain  to  flowering  size,  but  this  is  the  best  method  when 
a  large  number  of  plants  are  wanted.     See  also  Orchids,  page  372. 

Thymus  (Thyme).     Lahiatae. 
Increased  by  seeds  and  division. 

Thyrsacanthus  (properly  Odontonema).     Acanihaceoe. 

Increased  by  seeds  ;  also  by  greenwood  cuttings  under  a  frame. 

Tibouchina.     Melastomaceae. 

Handled  by  cuttings  of  the  growing  wood  under  glass. 

Tigridia  (Tiger  Flower).     Iridacece. 

Increased  by  seeds,  but  generally  by  offsets  from  the  corms. 

Tilia  (Basswood.     Linden).      TiliaceoB. 

Grown  from  seeds  planted  as  soon  as  ripe  or  stratified  and  sown 
in  spring  ;  if  kept  dry  over  winter  they  will  remain  dormant  till  the 
second  year.  Layers  may  be  made,  and  cuttings  employed,  but  the 
named  sorts  are  usually  grafted  in  spring  or  budded  in  summer 
on  common  stocks.    Mound-layering  is  sometimes  practiced. 

Tillandsia.     Bromeliacece. 

Propagated  mostly  by  suckers  (offsets) ;  sometimes  by  seeds.  T. 
usneoides  is  the  "  Spanish  moss  "  of  the  South ;  rarely  propagated, 
but  may  be  grown  from  seeds  or  division  of  the  moss. 

Tobacco.     SolanaceoB. 

Grown  from  seeds  started  in  beds ;  page  366- 

Tococa  (usually  known  as  Sphserogyne).     Melastomacece. 

Propagation  by  single-eye  cuttings  in  January  is  a  good  method. 
Split  the  stems,  make  single-eye  cuttings  ;  shorten  back  the  leaves  to 
within  about  2  inches  of  the  leaf -stalk ;  leave  about  21  inches  of 
woody  stem;  place  firmly  in  sand  of  propagating-bed  and  cover 
with  glass ;  pot  in  thumb-pots  and  keep  close  for  a  time.  May 
also  be  propagated  by  taking  the  base  of  the  shoot  with  a  piece  of 
the  stem  attached,  rooting  in  a  high  moist  temperature  with  shade. 


432  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Tomato  (Ly coper sicum  esculentum) .     SolanaceoB. 

Raised  from  seeds,  usually  started  under  glass.  Cuttings  of  grow- 
ing shoots,  rooted  under  glass,  like  fuchsias,  may  be  employed  for 
special  purposes. 

Torenia.     ScrophulariacecB. 

Grown  from  seeds,  sown  indoors  or  in  the  open,  and  from  cuttings 
in  a  frame. 

Torreya.      Taxaceoe. 

Increased  by  seeds,  cuttings  and  by  grafting  on  cephalotaxus ; 
cuttings  root  readily,  so  that  there  is  little  necessity  for  grafting. 

Trachelium  (Throatwort) .     Campanulacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  spring  and  by  cuttings. 

Trachelospermum,  Rhynchospermum.     ApocynacecB. 

Propagation  by  seeds,  and  usually  by  cuttings  of  half-ripened 
wood  taken  with  a  heel  in  spring. 

Trachycarpus.     Palmaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  suckers.  See  Palms,  page  377« 

Tradescantia.     CommelinaceoB. 

Increased  usually  by  cuttings  of  the  growing  shoots  ;  also  by  seeds 
and  division.   See  Zebrina. 

Tragopogon :     Salsify. 

Trapa  (Water  Caltrops).      Trapacece  or  OnagraceoB. 

Increased  by  seeds  which  must  be  kept  moist  to  retain  their 
vitality. 

Trichopilia.     Orchidacew. 

Increased  by  division  of  the  plants.  See  also  Orchids,  page  372. 

Trichosanthes  (Snake  Gourd).     CucurbitaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  either  indoors  or  out,  sown  in  March; 
frost-tender. 

Trichosporum,  ^schynanthes.     GesneriaceoB. 

Handled  by  cuttings  of  the  firm  partially  ripened  shoots  of  the 
season,  cut  to  two  or  three  joints  and  with  two  leaves  attached; 
place  in  close  frame  with  temperature  of  about  70°. 


THE   NURSERY-LIST  433 

Tric3n:tis,     LiliacecB. 

Seeds  rarely ;  increased  mostly  by  offsets  and  division.  These 
plants  may  now  be  known  as  Compsoa. 

Trifolium.     Leguminosoe. 

The  clovers  are  grown  from  seeds  sown  where  the  plants  are 
to  stand.   See  Clover. 

Trillium  (Birthwort.    Wake-Robin).     Liliacece. 

Seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  should  give  flowering  plants  in  two 
or  three  years.  Usually  multiplied  by  the  natural  increase  of  the 
rhizomes. 

Triteleia :  Brodicea. 

Tritoma :   Kniphofia. 

Tritonia,  including  Montbretia.     Iridaceoe. 

Raised  from  seeds,  but  generally  increased  by  division  of  the 
plants. 

Trollius  (Globe-Flower).     Ranunculaceoe. 

Propagated  by  fresh  seed,  which  should  give  blooming  plants  the 
following  year ;  also  by  division  of  the  clumps. 

Tropaeolum  (Nasturtium.     Canary-bird  Flower).      TropoBoIaceae. 

Increased  by  seeds,  started  indoors  or  sown  in  the  garden  ;  tuber- 
iferous  species  by  tubers  or  division  of  roots ;  perennials  sometimes 
by  cuttings  under  glass. 

Tsuga  (Hemlock).     Pinacew. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  spring  and  by  grafting  on  T. 
canadensis.  The  varieties  and  Japanese  species  may  also  be  raised 
from  cuttings. 

Tulipa  (Tulip).     Liliacece. 

Seeds  may  be  sown  in  boxes  of  light  sandy  soil,  in  late  winter, 
and  placed  in  a  coldframe.  The  next  season  the  young  bulbs  should 
be  planted  in  a  prepared  bed  outside,  and  the  following  season 
bloom  should  be  had  although  a  longer  period  is  reciuired  before 
maturity  is  reached  and  the  full  character  of  the  flower  develops. 
Bulbels  may  be  detached  from  established  bulbs  when  they  are 
lifted,  and  grown  by  themselves  ;  this  is  the  usual  method.     Fig.  43. 

Tunica.     CaryophyllaceoB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  by  division. 
2f 


434  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

Turnip  {Brassica  Rapa).     Cruciferce. 

Raised  from  seeds,  where  the  plants  are  to  remain.  For  summer 
use,  seeds  may  be  sown  very  early  in  spring ;  but  for  the  main  crop 
sowing  is  made  in  July  in  the  northern  states. 

Typha  (Bulrush.  Cat-tail.  Reed  Mace).     Typhacece. 

Propagated  by  division  of  the  colonies.  They  maybe  grown  from 
seeds  in  a  pot  or  box  of  earth  set  in  water. 


Udo  (Aralia  cor  data).     Araliacece. 

This  Japanese  vegetable,  consisting  of  the  blanched  young  shoots, 
is  readily  propagated  by  seeds  started  in  spring  under  glass,  the 
plants  being  transferred  to  the  open  when  3  or  4  inches  high ;  the 
following  spring  they  should  supply  a  cutting.  Special  strains  are 
perpetuated  by  cuttings  of  the  green  shoots,  cut  to  a  joint. 

Ulex  (Furze.  Gorse.  Whin).     Leguminosoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sow^n  in  spring ;  by  greenwood  cuttings 
under  glass,  and  by  cuttings  of  nearly  mature  wood  in  early  summer 
in  a  coldframe  under  glass.  Varieties  are  sometimes  grafted  in 
spring  in  the  greenhouse  on  U.  europoeus. 

Ulmus  (Elm).      UlmacecB. 

Commonly  propagated  by  seeds.  The  seeds  of  most  elms  germi- 
nate the  year  they  mature  (they  ripen  in  spring) ,  and  they  may  be 
sown  at  once.  The  slippery  elm  ( U.  fulva),  however,  generally 
germinates  the  following  year,  and  the  seeds  should  be  stratified. 
Layers  are  sometimes  put  down  in  autumn  in  moist,  rather  light 
soil,  and  suckers  may  be  taken.  Some  species  may  be  raised 
from  greenwood  cuttings  under  glass.  The  varieties  are  grafted  on 
common  stocks,  either  by  budding  in  summer  or  by  whip-  or  splice- 
grafting  in  spring  outdoors  or  on  potted  stock  in  the  greenhouse. 

Ursinia.     Compos  if  cb. 

A  hardy  flower-garden  annual  raised  from  seeds,  started  indoors 
or  directly  in  the  open. 

Utricularia  (Bladderwort) .     Lentibidariace^p. 

The  floating  bladderworts,  used  in  pools  and  aquaria,  are  multi- 
plied by  division  of  the  plants  and  by  utilizing  the  winter-buds  that 
fall  to  the  bottom  in  autumn.  The  terrestrial  tropical  kinds  usually 
produce  little  tubers  by  which  they  may  be  propagated. 


THE  NURSERY-LIST  435 

Vaccinium  (Swamp  Huckleberry.  Whortleberry.  Blueberry.  Cran- 
berry). EricaccoB. 
Propagated  by  seeds,  layers,  root-cuttings,  and  divisions  of  the 
old  plants.  Some  species  by  hardwood  cuttings,  for  which  see 
cranberry.  Huckleberry  seeds  are  small  and  somewhat  difficult 
to  grow.  The  seeds  should  be  washed  from  the  fruits  and  stored  in 
sand  in  a  cool  place  until  late  in  winter.  They  are  then  sown  in  paas 
or  flats  on  the  surface  of  a  soil  made  of  equal  parts  sand  and  loam. 
Cover  with  fine  sphagnum  and  keep  in  a  cool  house  or  frame,  always 
keeping  the  seeds  moist.  Seeds  treated  in  this  way  may  be  expected 
to  germinate  in  a  month  or  two,  although  they  may  he  dormant  a 
year.  Transplant  frequently  and  keep  shaded  until  large  enough 
to  shift  for  themselves.  Layers  should  be  tongued.  Cuttings,  2  or 
3  inches  long,  of  the  best  roots,  made  in  fall  and  placed  in  mild 
bottom  heat  in  early  spring,  often  give  fair  satisfaction.  Native 
plants  can  be  obtained  from  the  woods  and  fields  which  will  give 
good  satisfaction  if  small  specimens  are  taken.  Gaylussacias  are 
handled  in  the  same  way  as  vacciniums.  For  the  most  recent 
methods  of  handling  this  class  of  plants,  see  Blueberry. 

Valeriana  (Valerian).     Valerianacece. 
Increased  by  seeds  and  division. 

Valerianella:  Corn-Salad. 

Vallisneria   (Eel-Grass) .     HydrocharitacecB. 

Propagated  by  the  runners  at  the  base  of  the  leaf-tuft. 

Vallota  (Scarborough  Lily).     Amaryllidaceae. 

Increased  by  bulbels,  which  usually  appear  above  the  surface  of 
the  pot ;  also  by  division  of  the  bulbs. 

Vanda.     OrchidaceoB. 

The  larger  number  of  vandas  are  propagated  in  the  same  way  as 
described  for  aerides,  but  two  species  —  V.  teres  and  V.  Hookcrinna 
—  both  tall  and  quick  growing,  may  be  cut  into  lengths  of  a  few 
inches.  The  practice  of  the  most  successful  cultivators  is  to  start 
them  every  year  as  cuttings  about  a  foot  long.  See  also  Orchids, 
page  372. 

Vanilla.     Orchidacece. 

Propagation  by  division  and  cuttings.  The  vanilla  of  commerce 
{V.  planifolia)  is  propagated  from  long  cuttings  (from  2  feet  to  12 


436  THE  NURSERY-MANUAL 

feet  long)  planted  at  the  base  of  trees,  upon  which  the  plant  climbs. 
See  also  Orchids,  page  372. 

Velvet  Bean  (species  of  Stizolobium),     Leguminosae. 

Frost-tender  and  requiring  a  long  season,  grown  only  far  South ; 
raised  from  seed  sown  where  the  crop  is  to  grow ;  often  planted  with 
Indian  corn.     Formerly  included  in  the  genus  Mucuna. 

Venidium.     Compositce. 

Increased  by  seeds,  the  plants  usually  being  treated  as  annuals. 

Veratrum  (False  or  White  Hellebore).     Liliaceoe. 
Grown  by  seeds  and  by  division. 

Verbascum  (Mullein).     ScrophulariaceoB. 

Grown  readily  from  seeds  sown  in  the  ordinary  way ;  also  by 
greenwood  cuttings  and  division. 

Verbena  (Vervain).     Verbenacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  indoors  or  in  the  open  ;  also  by  cuttings 
of  vigorous  shoots  ;  some  species  by  division.  The  common  garden 
verbena  is  usually  treated  as  an  annual,  although  often  carried 
over  winter  by  cuttings.  Outdoor  plants  may  be  cut  back  in  early 
fall  and  new  growths  suitable  for  cuttings  will  arise ;  in  this  way  the 
particular  varieties  may  be  perpetuated. 

Vernonia  (Ironweed).     Com  posit  oe. 

Raised  from  seeds,  division  and  cuttings,  mostly  by  division. 

Veronica  (Speedwell).     ScrophulariacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  division ;  shrubby  sorts  often  by  cuttings 
in  spring  or  summer. 

Verschaffeltia.     PalmacecB. 
Grown  from  imported  seeds. 

Vesicaria.     Cruciferoe. 

Annuals  propagated  by  seeds ;  perennials  by  division. 

Vetch  :   Vicia. 

Viburnum.     Caprifoliaceoe. 

Increased  by  seeds,  which  should  be  stratified  or  sown  in  fall. 
They  usually  remain  dormant  the  first  year.  Layers  usually  make 
excellent  plants  (Fig.  61).    Green  cuttings  made  in  suro.mer  azid 


THE  NURSERY-LIST  437 

handled  in  frames  give  excellent  results.  I '.  fomrnfosum  ( I ' .  plicatum 
of  nurseries)  is  propagated  by  cuttings.  Ripe  cuttings  are  some- 
times used  for  the  soft-wooded  species.  The  snowball  or  guelder-rose 
(F.  Opulus)  is  rapidly  increased  by  layers,  and  it  propagates  well  by 
mature  cuttings  in  summer  in  a  frame  or  propagating-house  (Fig. 
124).  It  is  also  a  good  stock  for  closely  related  species.  V.  Lanfana, 
V.  dentatum  and  V.  Opulus  are  good  stocks  on  w^hich  varieties 
difficult  to  handle  can  be  worked  by  the  veneer-graft  in  winter. 

Vicia  (Vetch).    Legiiminosoo. 

Propagated  by  seeds  sown  where  plants  are  to  grow.  V.  Faha  is 
the  broad  or  Windsor  bean,  which  is  hardy  and  a  cool-season  plant, 
and  the  large  seeds  should  be  planted  early  in  the  season.  The 
forage  and  cover-crop  vetches  are  sown  at  the  rate  of  40  to  100 
pounds  and  more  to  the  acre.  As  a  cover-crop  in  orchards,  30  to 
50  pounds  are  usually  advised. 

Victoria  (Royal  Water-Lily).     NymphceacecB. 

Grown  from  seeds.  There  are  two  species,  one  (V.  regia)  requiring 
a  water  temperature  of  85°  to  90°  for  germination,  and  the  other 
{V.  Cruziana  or  Trickeri)  a  temperature  of  65°  to  70°.  The  seed  is 
usually  sown  in  February  or  March  in  pots  or  seed-pans  that  are 
set  in  shallow  water.  Young  seedlings  are  transferred  to  small  pots, 
and  kept  growing  continuously  until  large  enough  and  weather  is 
warm  enough  for  transfer  to  the  tanks  for  blooming.  The  victorias 
are  annuals  and  do  not  form  tubers. 

Vigna.     Leguminosoe. 

Increased  by  seeds  ;  the  cow-pea  or  black-pea  {Vigna  sinensis)  by 
seeds  when  danger  of  frost  is  past. 

Vinca  (Periwinkle).     Apocynaceae. 

Increased  chiefly  by  division  and  by  cuttings,  also  by  seeds.  V. 
rosea  may  be  propagated  annually  by  seeds. 

Viola  (Violet.  Heartsease.    Pansy).    Violaceoe. 

The  wild  violets  may  be  grown  easily  from  seeds  sown  in  autumn 
in  protected  boxes,  germination  taking  place  in  the  spring,  the 
boxes  having  been  exposed  to  freezing.  Dividing  the  plants  is  a 
common  method  of  increase.  Some  species  propagate  themselves 
by  runners. 

The  florist's  violet  is  readily  propagated  by  offsets  or  separable 
parts  that  form  in  late  winter ;  these  are  removed  and  treated  as 


438  THE   NURSERY-MANUAL 

independent  plants,  making  blooming  stock  for  the  following  winter. 
Sometimes  the  old  plant  is  divided  when  plants  are  lifted  in  spring ; 
this  may  produce  good  results,  but  care  must  be  taken  that  hard 
and  weak  parts  are  not  saved. 

Vitex  (Chaste-Tree).     VerhenacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  by  suckers,  layers,  cuttings  of  green  or 
ripened  wood  under  glass.    Cuttings  grow  with  difficulty. 

Vitis.     Vitacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  hardwood  cuttings.   See  Grape. 

Vittaria.     Polypodiacece. 

Propagation  by  division  and  spores.   See  Ferns,  page  312. 

Vriesia.     Bromeliacece. 

Propagation  as  for  tillandsia  (which  see),  mostly  by  offsets  or 
separable  parts. 


Wahlenbergia.     CampanuIaceoB. 

Propagation  as  for  campanula  (which  see),  the  annuals  by  seeds 
and  the  others  also  by  division. 

Wallflower :  Cheiranthus. 

Wallichia.     Palmaceae. 

By  imported  seeds  and  by  suckers.  See  Palms,  page  377. 

Walnut. 

The  walnuts  are  species  of  Juglans,  and  the  propagation  is  de- 
tailed under  that  entry.  The  so-called  English  walnut  is  Juglans 
regia,  much  grown  in  California.  Most  of  the  walnut  orchards 
are  of  seedling  trees,  grown  from  selected  seeds  (or  nuts).  The 
introduction  of  improved  varieties,  however,  has  made  budding 
and  grafting  necessary.  The  black  walnut  and  butternut  {J.  nigra 
and  J.  cinerea)  are  grown  mostly  as  seedlings,  but  graftage  may  be 
employed.     See  Juglans. 

Wandering  Jew :    Tradescantia,  Zebrina. 

Washingtonia.     Palmacew. 

Propagated  readily  by  seeds.  See  Palins,  page  377. 


THE  NURSERY-LIST  439 

Water-Cress  (Roripa  Nasturtium).     Crucifercs. 

Propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  young  stems,  which  root  in  mud 
with  great  readiness,  or  seeds  scattered  in  the  water  or  mud. 

Watermelon  {CitruUu^  vulgaris).     Cucurhitaccae. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  usually  sown  where  the  plants  are  to  remain, 
after  the  weather  is  warm  and  settled ;  frost-tender. 

Watsonia.     Iridacece. 

Multiplied  by  seeds  and  by  offsets 

W\gandia.      HydrophyllacecB. 

Propagated  by  seeds  started  indoors  in  January,  and  also  by 
root-cuttings. 

Wineberry  {Rubus  phoejiicolasius) .     Rosacece. 

Increases  readily  by  "  tips,"  the  same  as  the  black  raspberry 
(see  Raspberry) ;  also  by  root-cuttings. 

Wisteria  (often  spelled  Wistaria).     LeguminoscB. 

Readily  grown  from  seeds  ;  sometimes  increased  by  division  ;  also 
cuttings  of  ripened  wood,  usually  handled  under  glass.  The  common 
purple  and  white  kinds  are  largely  grown  from  root-cuttings  an 
inch  or  two  long,  placed  in  bottom  heat,  when  they  will  start  in 
four  or  five  weeks.  Many  of  the  fancy  kinds,  especially  when  wood 
is  scarce,  are  root-  or  crown-grafted  on  W.  sinensis.  A  good  method 
of  propagation  is  by  layers,  to  which  the  plants  are  well  adapted. 

Witloof  (Cichorium  Intybus).     CompositcB. 

A  form  of  chicory,  grown  for  the  blanched  young  shoots.  To 
produce  roots  for  winter  and  spring  forcing,  the  seed  is  sown  in  the 
open  ground  in  spring  as  soon  as  the  weather  is  warm.  The  roots 
are  lifted  before  freezing  weather  in  fall,  the  leaves  trimmed  to  a 
crown  2  inches  long,  and  stored  till  wanted. 

Wormwood  (Artemisia  Absinthium).     Compositce. 

Hardy  perennial,  grown  from  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  or  the 
following  spring ;  old  plants  may  be  divided.  See  Artemisia, 
Tarragon. 


Xanthoceras.     SapindaceoB. 

Commonly  multiplied  by  seeds,  stratified  and  sown  in  spring; 
root-cuttings  in  moderate  bottom  heat  are  sometimes  used. 


440  THE  NURSERY-MANUAL 

Xanthosoma.     AracecB. 

Handled  by  offsets  and  by  dividing  the  root-stock.  See  AracecB. 

Xeranthemum.     CompositoB. 

Annuals  propagated  by  seeds,  usually  sown  in  the  open. 


Yucca  (Spanish  Bayonet).     LiliaceoB. 

Multiplied  by  seeds  and  offsets ;  also  by  cuttings  of  stem  and 
rhizome. 


Zaluzianskya  (Nycterinia) .     ScrophulariacecB. 

Grown  from  seeds  sown  indoors  in  spring  or  in  autumn  and 
plants  wintered  in  a  coldframe. 

Zamia.     CycadaceoB. 

Increased  by  division  of  the  crowns  when  possible ;  or  by  seeds 
and  suckers  (offsets).  The  plants  are  oftenest  imported  directly 
from  the  tropics.    See  Cycas. 

Zantedeschia  (Calla  of  florists).     Aracece. 

Propagated  by  offsets,  which  should  be  removed  and  potted 
when  plants  are  at  rest ;  old  crowns  may  be  divided.  This  is  the 
plant  known  as  Calla  (sthiopica  and  Richardia  africana.  Some  of  the 
zantedeschias  are  grown  from  seed.  See  Araceoe,  page  239. 

Zanthoxylum  (Prickly  Ash).     Rutacece. 

Multiplied  by  seeds,  suckers,  but  more  often  by  root-cuttings. 

Zea :  Maize. 

Zebrina  (Wandering  Jew).     CommelinaceoB. 

Very  easily  multiplied  by  single-joint  cuttings  of  the  trailing 
shoots.  These  shoots  root  at  the  joints  if  allowed  to  run  on  moist 
earth.  This  is  the  w^andering  jew  with  reddish  foliage  and  flowers ; 
the  green-foliaged  and  white-flowered  one  is  a  tradescantia. 

Zenobia.     Ericaceoe. 

Propagated  by  seeds  and  layers  ;  also  by  cuttings  of  half -ripened 
wood  in  July,  placed  in  gentle  heat,  or  by  greenwood  cuttings  from 
forced  plants. 

Zephyranthes  (Zephyr  Flower).     AmaryllidacecB. 
Multiplied  by  seeds  and  by  the  bulbels  or  offsets. 


THE  NURSERY-LIST  441 

Zingiber  (Ginger).     Zingihrracecr. 

Propagated  by  division  of  rhizomes  in  spring. 

Zinnia.     CompositoB. 

Annuals,  grown  from  seeds,  sown  either  indoors  or  out  when  the 
weather  is  settled. 

Zizania  (Wild  or  Indian  Rice).     Graminece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  sown  in  water  with  a  soft  mud  bottom. 
It  is  well  to  place  seed  in  coarse  cotton  bags  and  sink  them  in  water 
for  twenty -four  hours  before  planting. 

Zizyphus  (Jujube).     Rhamnacece. 

Propagated  by  seeds,  greenwood  cuttings  under  glass,  root- 
cuttings  and  offsets  (suckers) . 

Zygadenus.     Liliacece. 

Handled  by  division  of  rhizomes,  and  also  by  seeds. 

Zygocactus  (Epiphyllum  of  horticulturists).     Cadaceae. 

The  crab  cactus  or  Christmas  cactus  (Z.  truncatus  but  mostly 
known  as  Epiphyllum  truncatum)  is  readily  grown  from  cuttings. 
Pieces  of  the  branches  4  to  6  inches  long  are  placed  in  sandy  soil 
in  gentle  heat  and  kept  moderately  dry.  Zygocactuses  are 
often  grafted  on  strong  stocks  of  pereskia  {Pcreskia  aculeata  is 
commonly  used,  but  P.  grandifolia  is  equalh'  as  good),  for  the 
purpose  of  getting  high  or  rafter  plants.  A  young  shoot  is  cleft-  or 
side-grafted  into  any  part  of  the  pereskia  which  has  become  hard, 
and  the  cion  is  held  in  place  by  a  cactus  spine  passed  through  it. 
Several  cions  may  be  inserted  along  the  sides  of  the  stock.  See 
Cacti,  page  261. 

Zygopetalum.     Orchidacece. 

Propagated  by  cutting  through  rhizomes  between  old  pseudo- 
bulbs  at  a  good  eye.     See  Orchids,  page  372. 


INDEX 


The  regular  caption-entries  in  Part  II  (The  Nursery-List)  are  not  indexed 
here,  as  they  are  alphabetic ;  but  all  the  secondary  and  non-alphabetic  names 
in  the  List  are  included.  Sometimes  it  is  an  advantage  to  the  propagator  to 
be  able  to  look  up  all  the  members  of  a  natural  family,  to  note  how  they  agree 
and  differ  among  themselves  ;  therefore  all  the  names  of  families  in  the  Nursery- 
List  are  brought  together  in  paragraphs  in  this  index. 


Abutilon  Avicennoe,  23 

Acacia   diffusa,    23 ;     pennivervis,    23 ; 

Rose,  411 
Acanthaceae,     221,      234,     296,     307, 

314,   340,   342,   389,   404.   414,   416, 

417,  426,  430,  431 
Aceracese,  221,  365 
Achras  Sapota,  416 
Achyranthes,  339 
Acidity,  3 

Aconite,  Winter,  307 
Adamsia,  405 
Adder's-Tongue,  309 
African  Lily,  224 
Agpricacese,  363 
Agaricus  campestris,  363 
Agathsea,  312 
Agrostemma,  353 
Air-layering,  76 
Aizoaceae,  360,  429 
Akebia  quinata.  111 
Alcoholic  waxes,  171 
Alder,  226 ;   White,  283 
Alismacese,  415 
Alkalinity,  3 
Allegheny  Vine,  223 
Allium  ascalonicum,  419  ;  Porrum,  346  ; 

sativum,   317  ;     Schoenoprasum,    279  ; 

Scorodoprasum,  411 
Allspice,  Carolina,  267 
Almond,    stocks    for,    183 ;     Tropical, 

429 
Alum  Root,  332 


Amaranthacese,    227,    228,    272,    321, 

339 
Amaranth,  Globe,  321 
Amaranthus  retroflexus,  22 
Amaryllidaceffi,    228;    224,    227,    257, 

259,   266,   284,   292,   294,   303,   309. 

316,   329,   334,   337,   340,   348,   353. 

356,   365,   366,   378,   401,   423,   424. 

435,  440 
Amazon  Lily,  309 
American  Centaury,  414 
Anacardiaceae,  229,  290,  356,  397,  411. 

417,  423 
Anemone  coronaria,  63 
Anethum  graveolens,  301 
Annals  of  Horticulture,  quoted,  28 
Annonaceae,  231,  242,  243 
Annular-budding,  136 
Anthracnose,  200,  207 
Anthriscus  Cerefolium,  278 
Aphids  in  nurseries,  209,  210 
Aphis  pomi,  210;    sorbi,  210 
Apium  graveolens,  272 
Apocynaceae,  234  ;  222.  225.  248.  269. 

302,  356,  366,  401,  428,  430.  432,  437 
Aponogetonaceae.  234 
Apple.     Custard-.     231  ;      leaf-hopper, 

213;      Maminee-,     350;      Otuhoito-. 

423 ;     powdery -mildew.    197 ;     scab, 

196;    Star,  281;    stocks  for,  183 
Approach  grafting,  119,  IGG 
Apricot,  St.  Domingo,  356 ;   stocks  for, 

183 


443 


444 


INDEX 


Aquifoliacese,  338,  365 

Aracea,    239;     222,     224,     226,     229, 

233,   234,   242,   243.   265,   287,   301, 

303,   331,   362,   376,   387,   392,   397, 

403,  417.  422,  423,  440 
Araliacese,    221,    240,    302,    311,    319, 

330,  375,  402,  429,  4.34 
Aralin    cordata,    434 ;     quinque folium, 

319 
Arbor- Vitse,  430 ;   Japanese,  409 
Arbutus,  Trailing,  306 
Aristolochiacese,  242 
Arrowhead,  415 
Artemisia  Absinthium,   439  ;      Dracun- 

culus,  428 
Arthur,  J.  C,  quoted,  27 
Artillery  Plant,  394 
Asclepiadacese,    243,    274,    336,    357, 

389,  423,  424 
Ash,  315;   Prickly,  440 
Aspen,  402 

Aspidiotus  perniciosus,  213 
Asteriostigma,  423 
Atriplex  hortensis,  370 
Austria,  seeds  from,  9 
Autumn  Crocus,  286 

Bacillus  amylovorus,  192 

Bacteria  and  disease,  192 

Bacterium,  tiimefaciens,  194 

Bailey,  quoted,  4 

Bald  Cypress,  428 

Balloon- Vine,  269 

Balsaminaceae,  247,  338 

Baltet,  quoted,  118 

Barbados  Gooseberry,  389 

Barberry,  251 

Bark-grafting,  160 

Barnard's  tank,  83,  84 

Barrenwort,  306 

Basellaceae,  248,  258 

Bass  wood,  431 

Bastard  Cedar,  272 

Bayberry,  364 

Bead-Plant.  366 

Beal,  mentioned,  114 

Bean,  391;    Castor,  411;    Water,  365 

Beard-Tongue,  387 

Bear's  Breech,  221 

Beech,  311;   Blue,  270 

Beef  wood.  271 


Begoniaceae,  249 

Beinhart,  E.  G.,  quoted,  41 

Bell-flower,  267 

Bell-glass.  16,  81 

Bellwort,  Giant,  376 

Bene,  419 

Bent-Grass,  224 

Berberidaceae.     251,     306,     347,     355, 

365 
Betonica,  423 

Betulacese.  226,  251.  270,  289,  376 
BignoniaceEe.  251,  268,  271,  279,  285, 

304,   338,   340,   378,   391.   397,   405, 

429 
Bignonia  venusta,  405 
Bindweed,  288 
Biota,  430 
Birch,  251 

Bird-of-Paradise  Flower,  426 
Birthwort,  242,  433 
Bitter-sweet,  272 
Blackberry    anthracnose,    207;     Lily, 

250 
Black   Hellebore.    332;     Salsify,    418; 

spot  of  rose,  207 
Bladder-Nut,  423;    Senna,  287 
Bladderwort,  434 
Blazing  Star,  348 
Bleeding-Heart,  300 
Blight,  192 
Blood  Flower,  329 
Blue  Beech.  270 ;  -Eyed  Grass,  420 
Boraginacese,     230,     242,     257,     274, 

288,  305,  331,  360,  364,  369,  427 
Boring  seeds,  38 
Bottle-Brush,  360 
Bottle-grafting,  144,  164 
Bottom  heat,  87 
Bouncing  Bet,  416 
Box,  261;    Elder,  222,  365;    Jasmine, 

391;    Thorn,  353 
Boxberry.  317 
Bracken,  404 
Bragg  tree-digger,  172 
Brake.  404  ;    Cliff,  387 
Bramble,  413 
Brassica  alba,  23  ;  oleracea,  261 ;  oleracea 

var.    acephala,    286.    343 :      oleracea 

var.     botrytis,     271 ;     oleracea     var. 

Caulo-Rapa,  344  ;    oleracea  var.  geni' 

mi/era,  260 ;   Rapa,  434 


INDEX 


44." 


o 


Brazilian   Rubber-Tree,   332 

Bread-Fruit,  243 

Bridge-grafting,  160 

Bromeliacese,  259  ;     223,  241,  252,  268, 

293,   304,   329,   334,   367,   394.   397, 

405,  431,  438 
Bromus  mollis,  23 
Brown,  B.  S.,  quoted,  135 
Brugmansia,  299 
Bryohia  pratensis,  211 
Buckeye,  224 

Buckthorn.  409;    Sea,  334 
Budding   defined,    113;     practice,    121 
Bud-grafting,  118;   selection.  186 
Bugbane,  281 
Bugle,  224 
Bulbel,  57 
Bulblet,  61 
Bulbs,  described,  56 
Bulrush,  342,  434 
Bureau  of  Markets,  10 
Burnet,  416 
Burying  seeds.  35 
Butomaceae,  260,  337,  350 
Buttercup,  408 
Butterfly-Pea,  284 
Butternut,  341 
Butterwort,  396 

Button-Bush,  273  ;   Snake-Root,  348 
Buttonwood,  398 
Buxacese.  261 

Cabbage  Palm,  241 

Cacalia,  305 

Cactacese,  261,  273.  274,  304,  305,  307, 

330,   337,   3.56,   367,   370,   375,   386, 

389,  410,  417,  419,  441 
Cactus,  Hatchet,  386 
Calampelis,  304 
Calico  Bush,  343 
California  Pepper-Tree,  417;    Poppy, 

309 
Calipers.  180 
Calliopsis,  288 
Callus,  95 

Calycanthacese,  267,  359 
Cameron,   Robt.,  mentioned,   219 
Campanulaceae,    267,    351,    376,    393 

398,  407,  422,  432,  438 
Campanula   Rapunculus,    407 
Campion,  420 


Canary-bird  Flower,  433 

Candleberry,  364 

Candytuft,'338 

Cane,  Wild,  243 

Cannaceae,  268 

Cape  Marigold,  302  ;    Primrose,  426 

Caper,  268 

Capparidaceae,  268,  283,  329 

Caprifoliacese,  219,  301,  352,  416, 
427,  436 

Cardamom,  305 

Carob,  273 

Carolina  Allspice,  267 

Carrion-Flower,  423 

Carrot,  record  of,  26 

Carya,  333 

Caryophyllacese,  241.  269.  273,  300. 
329.  332.  353,  416,  420.  423.  427.  433 

Cashew,  229 

Castalia,  367 

Castor  Bean.  411 

Casuarinaceae.  271 

Catchfly,  420 

Cat-tail,  434 

Cayenne  Pepper,  387 

Ceanothus  americanus,  23 

Cedar,  White,  430 

Celastraceae,  272,  310 

Celery,  record  of.  26 

Centaury,  American.  414 

Ceratopteridacese.  273 

Cercis  japonica,  111 

Cheer ophyllum,  bulbosum,  278 

Chaetochloa.  361 

Chaste-Tree,  438 

Chayote,  418 

Chemicals  for  germination,  38 

Chenopodiaceae,  245,  248,  343.  370. 
422 

Cherries,  stocks  for.  183 

Cherry,  Ground,  393  ;  powdery-mil- 
dew, 199  ;  Winter,  393  ;  yellow-leaf. 
198 

Chestnut,  Horse-.  224  ;    stocks  for.  Ih3 

Chick-Pea.  281 

Chickweed,  Mouse-Ear,  273 

Chicory,  mentioned,  23 

Chimonanthus,  359 

China  Aster,  260 ;    -Berry.  359 

Chinese  layering,  76,  78 ;  Sacred  Lily 
365 


446 


INDEX 


Chinkapin,  Water,  365 

Chip-budding,  136 

Chocolate-Tree,  430 

Chokeberry,  242 

Christmas  Rose,  332 

Christ's  Thorn,  377 

Cichorium  Endivia,  306;  Intyhus, 
23,  279.  439 

Cinquefoil,  403 

Cion,  defined,  113 

Circumposition,  76 

Cistacese,  282,  331 

Citrullus  vulgaris,  439 

Cives,  279 

Cleft-grafting,  119,  146 

Clethraceffi,  283 

Cliff  Brake,  387 

Climbing  Fern.  354 

Clintonia,  303 

Cloche,  16 

Cloth,  waxed,  171 

Clover.  Prairie,  390 

Club-Moss,  353 

Cobnut,  289 

Coccomyces  hienialis,  199 

Cockscomb,  272 

Cocoa-Plum,  281 

Coffee  Tree.  Kentucky,  329 

Columbine,  239 

Combretacese,  407,  429 

Comfrey,  427 

Commelinaceae,  285,  287,  300,  432,  440 

Commerce  in  seeds,  5 

Compass  Plant.  420 

Composite,  222,  224,  233,  241,  242, 
243,  245,  247,  250,  257,  258,  266, 
269,  270,  271,  273,  275,  279,  280, 
282,  288,  290,  296,  297.  302,  303, 
304,  305,  306,  308,  310,  312,  316, 
317,  318,  328,  329,  331.  332,  333, 
334,  338.  344.  346,  347,  348,  354, 
357,  376,  390,  397,  401,  405,  414, 
415,  418,  419.  420,  421,  424,  426, 
428,  430.  434,  436,  439,  440,  441 

Cone-Flower,  414 

Convolvulaceae,  241,  267,  288,  339, 
340,  406,  427 

Coquito  Palm,    341 

Corallita,  233 

Coral-Tree,  308 

Cork  Tree,  391 


Cormel,  62 

Corms,  described,  61 

Cornaceai,  245,  289 

Cornell  Experiment  Station,  25 

Cornus  stoionifera,  70 

Cotton,  mentioned,  23 

Cottonwood,  402 

Cover-crops  for  nurseries,  178 

Coville,  F.  v.,  quoted,  254 

Cow-Parsley,  332  ;   -Parsnip,  332 

Cowslip.  267,  403 

Crakeberry,  306 

Crambe  maritima,  418 

Crape  Myrtle,  344 

Crassulacea;,  260,  290,  292,  304,  343, 

412,  418.  419 
Cress,  Rock-,  239 ;   Wall-,  239 
Crithnium   Tnaritimum,   416 
Crocus,  Autumn,  286 
Crosswort,  293 
Crowberry,  306 
Crowfoot,  408 
Crown,  66;    gall,  194;    -grafting,  118, 

119.  136 
Cruciferae,    228;    230.    239,    245.    260, 

261,   269,   271,   275,   286,   291,   292, 

303,   308,   332,   335,   .338,   343,   344, 

353,   355,   358,   364,   407,   418,   4,34, 

436,  439 
Cryptomerta  japonica,   106 
Cubeb.  397 

Cucumber,  Squirting,  304 ;    Tree,  355 
Cucumis  Anguria,  318 
Cuciirbitaceae,     293;     220,     250,     260, 

285,    304.   318,   322.   344.   353,   359, 

361,   405,   418,   420,   423,  432,   439; 

seeds  of,  23 
Currant     anthracnose,     200;      Indian, 

427;   leaf-spot.  200;   worms,  215 
Custard- Apple,  231 
Cuttage.  80 
Cutting-bench,  89,  90 
Cutting-grafting,  164 
Cuttings,  chapter  on,  80 
Cyanophyllum,  360 
Cyatheaceae,  227,  295,  301 
Cycadacese,  274,  295.  302,  306,  440 
Cyclanthaceae,  269 
Cynara   Cardunculus,    269 ;     Scolymus, 

242 
Cyperaceae,   269,    281.    296,    379.    418 


INDEX 


447 


Cyperus  esculentus,  281 

Cypress,    294 ;     Bald,    428 ;     Summer, 

343;    -Vine,  406 
Cytisus  alhus,  23 

Daffodil,  365 

Daisy,     English,     250;      Michaelmas, 

245;    Paris.  357;    Swan  River,  258 
Dame's  Violet,  332 
Daniel,  L.,  mentioned,  117 
Datiscaceae,  299 
Daucus  Oarota,210 
Davis,  R.  A.,  mentioned,  133 
Day  Lily,  332 
Delayed  germination,  21 
Denmark,  seeds  from,  10 
Desert  Willow,  279 
Dianthus  Caryophyllus,  269 
Diapensiacese,  316,  420 
Dielytra,  300 
Diggers,  for  trees,  172 
Dilleniaceae,  223,  302 
Diosoreacese,  302,  429 
Diospyros  Kaki,  184  ;    Lotus,  184 ;    vir- 

giniana,    184 
Diplocarpon  rosce,  208 
Dipsacacese,  417 
Diseases   of   nursery   stock,      192;     of 

soils,  40 
Dish-cloth  Gourd,  353 
Dissemination,  1 
Dittany,  301 
Division,  62 
Dog's-tooth  Violet,  309 
Dogwood,  289 
Double- working,  167 
Dragon's  Head,  303 
Droseracese,  302,  304 
Dwarfing  fruit-trees,  184 

Ebenaceae,  390 

Ebony,  Mountain,  248 

Edelweiss,  347 

Eel-Grass,  435 

Egg-nucleus,  1 

Egypt,  seeds  from,  22 

Elaeagnacese,  260,  305.  334.  419 

Elder,  416  ;   Box,  222.  365 

Elephant's  Foot,  429 

Elichrj'sum,  331 

Elm,  434  ;    Water-,  397 


Empetracese.  306 

Empoasca  mali,  213 

Endive,  record  of,  26 

English  advice,  48 ;    Daisy,  250 

Epacridacese,  306 

Equestrian  Star,  334 

Ericaceae,    307;    230,    240,    246.    2.54. 

266,   275,   291,   306,   .307,   317.   ;343. 

346,   348.   352,   354.   376,   389,   393. 

410,  435.  440 
Eriocampoides  limacina,  214 
Erythroxylaceae.  309 
Etherization,  3,  68 
Euphorbiaceae,    310;    221,    225,    270. 

286.   3.32,   341,   357,   392,   401.   411, 

416,  424 
Euphorbia  pulcherrima,  401 
Eutoca,  390 
Evening  Primrose,  368 
Everlasting,  331 
Ewart,  quoted,  22 
Exoascus  deformans,  204 

Fabroea  maculata,  205 

Fadyenia,  317 

Fagaceae,  278,  311,  406 

False  Hellebore.  436 

Fennel-Flower,  367 

Fenzlia,  318 

Fern,    Climbing.    354;      Filmy.    337; 

Flowering.     376;      Hartford.     354; 

Maidenhair,  223;   Stag's-Horn,  398; 

Sweet,  287;    Tree.  227 
Fertilizing  for  nurseries,  175 
Ficus  elastica,  76 
Fig,  Indian,  370 ;   -Marigold,  360 
Filbert.  289 
Filices,  312 
Filing  seeds.  38 
F'ilmy  Fern,  337 
Fir,  219 
Fire-blight.  192 
Firm  wood  cuttings.  110 
Five-Finger,  403 
Flacourtiaceae,  250 
Flax.  350;    New  Zealand,  392 
Fleabane,  308 
Floating-Heart.  368 
Flowering    Fern.    376;      xMaple.    220" 

Rush.  260 
Flute-budding.  135;    -grafting.  118 


448 


INDEX 


Forestry  seed-sowing,  51 
Forget-me-not,  364 
Forsyth's  pot,  88 
Four-O'clock,  361 
Foxglove,  301 
France,  seeds  from,  10 
Franciscea,  259 
Fraxinella,  301 

French  Bean,  391 ;    Mulberry,  266 
Frenela,  266 
Fringe  Tree,  279 
Fruit-grafting,  166 
Fumariacese.  223,  289,  300 
Fungi  and  disease,  192 
Fungicides  for  nursery  stock,  191 
Furze,  434 

Gages  for  trees.  180.  181 

Gale,  Sweet,  364 

Garbanza,  281 

Garden,  The,  quoted,  48 

Garland  Flower,  330 

Garryaceae,  317 

Geneva  Station,  27,  176;    tester,  27 

Genip,  359 

Gentianaceae,  311,  317,  368,  414 

Geraniacese,  308,  318,  386 

Germander,  429 

Germany,  seeds  from,  9 

Germination,  definition,  11 

Germinators,  38 

Germ-nucleus,  1 

Gesneriaceae,  318  ;  222,  225,  301,  307, 
320,  340,  364,  407,  415,  420,  426,  432 

Giant  Bellwort,  376 

Ginger,  441 

Ginkgoacese,  319 

Gleicheniaceae,  320 

Globe  Amaranth,  321 ;  -Flower,  433 ; 
Mallow,  422  ;   Thistle,  304 

Globulariacese,  320 

Glory-Pea,  284 

Glycine  Soja,  422 

Golden-Bell,  314;  -Chain,  344  ;  Larch, 
404 

Goldenrod,  421 

Goldenseal,  337 

Goldfussia,  426 

Goober,  383 

Gooseberry  anthracnose,  200;  Bar- 
bados, 389 ;  -spot,  200 ;   mildew,  202 


Gootee,  78 

Gorse.  434 

Gossypium,  290;   herbaceum,  23 

Gould,  H.  P.,  quoted,  380 

Gourd,  Snake,  432 

Grades  of  trees,  179 

Graftage,  defined,  113 

Grafting,     136;      by    approach,     119, 

166;   defined,  115;   -waxes,  169 
Graminese,    328;    224,    229,   243,    247, 
259,   265,   279,    286,   289,   307,   309, 
334,   342,   344,   345,   355,   361,   370, 
387,  391,  424,  426.  441 
Grape,  cuttings,  94,  95,  105  ;  Hyacinth. 

363  ;    -Seaside,  285 ;    stocks,  183 
Grass,    Bent-,    224;    Blue-Eyed,   420; 
Eel-,    435 ;     Love-,    307 ;     Pampas-, 
289;    Plume-.   307;    Quaking,   259; 
St.  Augustine,  424;   Whitlow-,  303 
Green-Briar,  420 
Greenwood  cuttings,  107 
Ground  Cherry,  393 
Groundsel,  419  ;    Tree,  247 
Guernsey  Lily,  366 
Gum,  368;    Sweet,  350;    -Tree,  309 
Gumbo,  368 
Gumi,  305 

Guttiferse,  316,  356,  357 
Gymnonychus  appendiculatus,  215 

Habrothamnus,  274 
Haloragidacese,  329,  364 
Hamamelidacese,    289,    315,    330.    350. 

379 
Hand-glass,  81 
Hardening-off,  17 
Hardwood  cuttings,  104 
Hartford  Fern,  354 
Hatchet  Cactus,  386 
Hatton,  cited,  238 
Haw,  292 
Hawk-Weed,  334 
Hawthorn,  292 
Hazel,  289 
H-budding,  135 
Heartsease,  437 
Heater  for  wax,  151 
Heat  for  cuttings,  80 
Heath,  307,  308 
Heather,  266 
Hedge  Nettle,  423 


INDEX 


449 


Heel  cutting,  94 

Heeling-in,  187 

Heikes'  tree  gage,  180 

Helianthus  annuus,  23 ;    tuherosus,  243 

Hellebore,  False.  436 ;   White.  436 

Hemlock,  433 

Hemp.  268 

Herbaceous-grafting,  165 

Heron's-Bill,  308 

Hesler  and  Whetzel,  book  by.  190 

Hibiscus  esculentus,  368 ;    Trionum,  23 

Himalaya  Berry,  253 

Hippocastanaceae,  224 

Hog-Plum.  423 

Hoit's  grafting-knife,  148 

Hoitzia,  352 

Holly,  Japan,  376 ;   Mountain,  365 

Honesty,  353 

Honey  Locust,  320 

Honeysuckle,  352 

Hookera,  259 

Hop  Hornbeam,  373 ;   Tree,  404 

Horehound,  357 

Hornbeam,  270;    Hop,  376 

Horned  Poppy,  319 

Horse-Chestnut,  224 

Hortensia,  337 

Houseleek,  419 

Huckleberry,  317  ;   Swamp,  435 

Hume,  H.  H.,  quoted,  346.  350,  370. 

390 
Husk  Tomato,  393 
Husmann,  Geo.,  quoted,  325 
Hydrangea  paniculata,  111 
Hydrocharitacese,  350,  435 
Hydrophyllaceae,  366,  390,  439 
Hymenophyllaceae,  337 
Hypericaceae,  337 

Ice-Plant,  360 

Imantophyllum,  284 

Impatiens  Balsamina,  247 

Inarching,  119,  166 

Indian  Currant,  427 ;    Fig,  370 ;    Rice, 

441;    Turnip,  242 
Indigo,  338 
Inlaying,  163 

Insecticides  for  nursery  stock,   191 
Insects  of  nursery  stock,  209 
Iridacese,    339;    222,    233,    247,    250, 

292,   293,   296,   315,   319,   340.   345, 

2g 


357.   362.   .365,   417,   420.   422.   431. 

433,  439 
Ironweed,  436 
Ivy,  330 

Japan  Cedar,  293  ;  Holly,  376 ;  Quince 

274 ;    seeds  from,  10 
Japanese  Arbor- Vitse,  409 
Jasmine  Box,  391 
Jennings,  J.,  mentioned,  219 
Jessamine,  341 
Job's  Tears,  286 
Jonquil,  365 
Judas  Tree,  274 
Judd,  W.  H.,  mentioned,  219 
Juglandacea?,  333.  341,  385,  404 
Juglayis  Hindsii,   184 ;    nigra,  184 
Jujube.  441 
Juncaceae,  342 
Jute,  288 

Kains.  M.  G.,  quoted,  178 

Kaki,  stock  for,  184 

Keeping  seeds.  23 

Kentucky  Coffee  Tree,  329 

Kidney  Bean,  391 ;   Vetch,  233 

Kier's  layering-boxes,  77 

King  and  Pammel,  quoted,  22 

Knight,  Thos.  Andrew,  13 

Knives,  for  budding,  125  ;   for  grafting, 

140.  148 
Kohleria,  340 

Labiatse,    224,    247,    248.    272.    286. 
303.   305,   338.   .346.   347.    357.   3.59, 
361,   366,   375,   389,   392.   393,   413 
414,  415,  416.  418,  423,  429,  431 

Labrador  Tea,  346 

Ladies'  Ear-Drop,  315 

Lady's  Mantle,  225 ;    Smock,  269 

Lands  for  nurseries,  173 

Larch,  345 ;   Golden,  404 

Lardizabalaceae,  225 

Larkspur,  299 

Lath  screen.  17 

Lauracese.  246.  282.  346,  389.  416 

Laurel.  346 ;    Mountain.  343 

Lavender,  346  ;    Sea-,  423 

Layerage,  70 

Layers,  69,  70 

Lead-Plant,  229 


450 


INDEX 


Leadwort,  400 

Leaf-blight,  pear  and  quince,  204 ; 
-curl,  203;    hopper,  213 

Leather  Leaf,  275 

Leaves,  cuttings  of,  101 

Lefort's  wax,  171 

Leguminosae,  220,  221,  225.  229, 
233,  245.  248,  264,  266,  268,  271, 
273,  274.  280,  281,  283,  284,  287, 
289,  291,  293,  296,  297,  303,  308. 
312.  317,  320,  329,  330.  331,  338, 
343,  344,  345,  347,  352,  353,  358, 
361,  379,  380.  383,  390.  391,  401, 
404.  405,  411,  421.  422,  426,  428, 
433,  434,  436,  437,  439 

Lens  esculent  a,  347 

Lentibulariacese,  396,  4.34 

Leopard's  Bane,  303 

Lepidium  sativum,  292 

Lilac.  427 

Liliacese,  349;  224.  225,  227,  233. 
244.  251,  254,  258,  259,  260,  267, 
279,  284,  286,  288,  298,  303.  307, 
309,  315,  316,  317,  320,  330,  332, 
335.  343,  344,  345,  346.  361.  363, 
367.  369,  370,  376,  379,  392,  405. 
411,  412,  414,  416,  418.  419.  420, 
433,  436.  440.  441 

Lilium  auratum,  58 ;  candidum,  58 ; 
pardalinian,  58 ;  speciosum,  58 

Lily,  African,  224 ;  Amazon,  309 ; 
Blackberry,  250;  Chinese  Sacred, 
365 ;  Day,  332 ;  Guernsey,  366 ; 
Mariposa,  267 ;  Plantain.  335 ; 
Royal  Water-,  437;  St.  Bruno's, 
379 ;  Scarborough.  435 ;  Water, 
367 

Lima  Bean,  391 

Lime,  Spanish,  359 

Limnanthemum,  368 

Linaceae,  350,  408 

Linden,  431 

Lion's  Foot,  347 

Liquorice,  320 

Loasaceae,  351.  359 

Lobeliaceae,  303 

Locust.  411;   Honey.  320 

Loganiacese,  260,  317 

Loosestrife,  354 

Loquat,  308 

I.QtU3.  365,  367 


Lovage,  348 

Love-Grass.  307 ;  -in-a-Mist,  367 

Lucerne,  358 

Lungwort,  360 

Lycopodiacese,  353 

Lygistum,  356 

Lygus  pratensis,  212 

Lythraceae,  294,  344,  354 

Macleaya  cor  data,  257 

Madeira  Vine,  258 

Magnoliaceae,  338,  342.  351,  354,  360, 

417 
Maidenhair  Fern,  223;    Tree,  319 
Maize,  mentioned,  23 
Mallet  cutting.  95 
Mallow.    355;     Globe.    422;      Marsh, 

228;   Poppy-,  266 
Malpighiacese,  355,  424 
Malvaceae.    220.    228.    266,    290,    332, 

334,   .346,   355.   356,  368,   380,   422, 

430 
Mammee-Apple.  356 
Mandrake,  356 
Maiigifera  indica.  356 
Manihoi  dulcis  var.  Aipi,  270 
Maple.  221 ;    Flowering.  220 
Marantaceae,  265.  357 
Marattiaceae,  231 
Marigold,  428 ;   Cape.  302  ;    Fig-,  360 ; 

Marsh,  267 ;   Pot.  266 
Mariposa  Lily,  267 
Marjoram.  375 

Marsh  Mallow,  228 ;    Marigold,  267 
Martyniaceae,  357 
Marvel  of  Peru.  361 
Matrimony- Vine.  353 
Meadow  Rue,  429 ;   -Sweet.  314 
Medick.  358 
Medlar,  360 
Melastomaceae,    358;    251,    273.    332, 

360,  421,  431 
Meliaceae,  272,  359 
Melianthaceae.  359 
Melilotus  albus,  23 
Melissa  officinalis,  247 
Menispermaceae,  285.  359 
Michaelmas  Daisy,  245 
Mildew,  gooseberry.  202;   peach.  208 

rose,  208 
MilfoU,  222 


INDEX 


451 


Milk  Vetch,  245 

Milkweed,  243 

Milkwort.  401 

Mint,  359 

Mock  Orange,  391 ;   Privet,  391 

Modified  whip-grafts,  143 

Moisture  for  cuttings,  80;  for  germi- 
nation, 12 

Monkey- Flower.  361 

Monk's  Hood,  222 

Montana  Experiment  Station,  30 

Montbretia,  433 

Moonfiower.  267,  339 

Moonseed,  359 

Moracese,  243,  259,  268,  303,  313, 
335,  354,  362 

Morning-Glory,  339 

Morus  alba,  141 ;   rubra,  141 

Moss.  Club-,  353  ;   Rose,  402 

Mottet,  mentioned,  47 

Mound-layering,  74 

Mountain  Ebony.  248;  Fringe,  223; 
Holly,  365;  Laurel,  343;  Rose, 
233 

Mourning  Bride,  417 

Mouse-Ear  Chickweed,  273 

Mugwort,  242 

Mulberry,  259  ;    French,  266 

Mulford,  mentioned,  81 

Mullein,  436 

Mummy  seeds,  22 

Musacese,  247,  331,  362.  426 

Musa  paradisiaca,  247  ;  sapientum,  247 

Musk-Plant,  361 

Mustard,  mentioned,  23 

MycosphcBrella  grossularioe ,  201 ;  sen- 
Una,  206 

Myricaceae.  364 

Myrica  Gale,  90 

Myristicaceae,  364 

Myxsinacese,  241,  283 

Myrtaceee,  266,  309.  310,  311.  328, 
347,  358.  360.  364 

Myrtle,  364  ;  Crape,  344  ;  Sand,  346 ; 
Wax,  364 

Myzus  cerasi,  210 

Nasturtium,  433  ;    Arrnoracia,  335 
Navelwort,  290 
Nelumbium  luteum,  23 
NeoeDthaceae,  366 


Nephelium  Litchi,  351 

Nettle.  Hedge,  423  ;  -Tree,  273 

Neumann's  pot,  89 

New  Hampshire,  Comr.  Agric,  33,  34 

New  York  Experiment  Station,  27,  176 

New  Zealand  Flax,  392  ;    Spinach,  429 

Ninebark,  393 

Nolanaceae.  367 

Nursery  lands,  173 

Nutmeg.  364 

Nut,  Queensland,  354 

Nuttalia,  376 

Nyctaginaceae.  220.  258,  361 

Nycterinia,  440 

Nymphaeacese,  367;    261,  365,  437 

Oak,  406 

Oakley,  R.  A.,  quoted,  10 

Ochnaceae,  368 

Ocimum    basilicum,    248 ;      minimum, 

248 
Odontonema,  431 
Offset,  64 
Oleaceae,  279.  314,  315.  341.  349.  368, 

376.  391,  427 
Oleander,  366 
Oleaster,  305 
Olive,  Wild,  305 
Oliver,  mentioned.  135,  219 
Onagracese,   283.   309,   315,    321,   342. 

352.  368,  432 
Onion,  record  of,  26 

Orange.     Mock,     391;      Osage,     354; 

stocks  for,  183 
Orchidaceae,  372 ;  223,   224.   231.   233 

252.   254,   258,   259,   260,   265,   271. 

286,   295.   299,   306,   321,   322,   344. 

353,  358,  361,  368,  369,  379,  389. 
391,  392,  398,  412.  414,  417,  418. 
420,  421.  423,  431,  432,  435,  441 

Orpine,  418 

Osage  Orange,  354 

Osier,  289,  415 

Osmundaceae,  376 

Otaheite-Apple.  423;    -Plum.  423 

Oxalidaceae,  246.  376 

Oxygen  for  germination.  12 

Palmaceffi,  377  ;  221,  222,  240.  241.  245. 
247.  257.  258,  265,  270.  275,  280. 
285,   290,   298,  301.  302.   308.  3ia 


452 


INDEX 


317,   331,   336,   337.   341,   345,   348, 

351,   375,   392,    394,   403,   408,   409, 

414,  430,  432,  436,  438 
Palm,  Cabbage,  241 ;    Coquito,  341 
Palmer,  M.  A.,  mentioned,  211 
Palmetto,  414 

Pammel  and  King,  quoted,  22 
Pampas-Grass,  289 
Panax  quinquefoliurn,  319 
Pandanacese,  378 
Panicum,  361 
Papaverace«,  223,  241,  257,  306,  309, 

319,  336,  358,  378,  412 
Papayacese,  379 
Paper  Mulberry,  259 
Pardanthus,  250 
Paris  Daisy,  357 
Parrot's  Feather,  364 
Parsley,  Cow-,  332 
Parsnip,  Cow-,  332 
Passifloracese,  380 
Passion-Flower,  380 
Pastinacia  sativa,  380 
Patch-bud,  135 
Pea.    Butterfly-,     284;    Chick-,    281; 

Glory,  284  ;    Pigeon,  264  ;   record  of, 

26;    Tree,   Siberian,   268 
Peach,    leaf-curl,    203;    mildew.    208; 

stocks  for,  183 
Pear,   leaf-blight,    204;    Prickly,   370; 

psylla,    212 ;     scab,    196 ;     septoria, 

206;    slug,  214;    stocks  for,  183 
Pecan,  stocks  for,  183 
Peck,   mentioned.    143,    151 ;     quoted, 

161,  170 
Pedaliacese,  419 
Pedigree  trees,  185 
Pennywort,  Water,  337 
Peony,  377 
Pepperidge.  368 
Pepper-Tree,  California,  417 
Periwinkle,  437 
Per  sea  americana,  246 
Persimmon,  stock  for,  184 
Peruvian  Bark,  281 
Petroselinum  hortense,  379 
Phoenix  dactylifera,  298 
Phytolaccacese,  393,  411 
Phyton,  3 
Pigeon  Pea,  264 
Pimpernel,  229 


Pimpinella  Anisum,  231 

Pinaceae,  219,  240,  266,  272,  275. 
293,  294,  342,  345,  348,  393,  396, 
404.  409,  418,  419,  428.  430,  433 

Pin-Cushion  Flower,  417 

Pine,  396;  -Plant,  410;  Screw-,  378; 
Umbrella,    418 

Piney,  377 

Pink,  300 ;   Sea.  242,  423 

PiperaccEe,  387,  397 

Pitcher-Plant,  366,  416 

Pittosporaceae,  397,  421 

Plane-Tree,    398 

Plantain  Lily,  335 :   -Tree,  362 

Plant-bug.  212 ;    -lice  in  nurseries,  209 

Platanacese.  398 

Plate-budding,  134 

Plectodiscella  veneta,  207 

Plumbaginacese.  242,  274,  400,  423 

Plum,  Cocoa-,  281;  Hog-.  423;  Ota- 
heite-,  423  ;  stocks  for,  184 ;  yellow- 
leaf,  198 

Plume-Grass,  307 

Podosphoera  leucotricha,  197 ;  oxya- 
canthce,  199 

Poke.  393 

Poker  Plant.  343 

Pole  Bean,  391 

Polemoniacese.  268,  285.  318,  352,  392, 
401 

Pollen-grains,  1 

Polyanthus,  403 

Polygalacese,  401 

Polygonacese,  233,  285,  362,  401.  410. 
421 

Polypodiacese,  223,  244.  254.  274, 
299,  301,  302,  303,  305.  366,  387, 
393,  398,  402,  404,  438 

Polypody,  402 

Pomelo,  328 

Pontederiacese,  305 

Pontederia  azurea,  305;    crassipes,  305 

Poplar,  402 

Poppy.  378 ;  California,  309  ;  Horned, 
319;    Mallow,  266;    Water-,  337 

Portulacaceffl,  265,  348,  362,  402 

Pot,  for  wax,  151 ;  layering,  76 ;  Mari- 
gold, 266 

Powdery  mildew,  197,  199 

Powell,  mentioned,   154 

Prairie  Clover,  390 


INDEX 


453 


Prickly  Ash,  440 ;   Pear,  370 

Pride  of  India,  359 

Prim,  349 

Primrose,  403  ;    Cape,  426 ;    Evening, 

368 
Primulacese,   229,  230,   246,   295.   303, 

335,  354,  403.  421 
Primula  Auricula,  246 
Privet,  349;    Mock,  391 
Prong-budding,  134 
Propagating-box.  82,   85;    -frame,  82, 

86 ;    -house,  86 ;    -oven,  83 
Proteacese,     328,    329,    348.    354,    403 
Prunus   avium,    183;     cerasifera,    184; 

Davidiana,     183 ;      domestica,     184 ; 

Mahaleb,  183 ;    salicina,  184 
Psedera.  380 
Pseudobulb,  63 
Pseudopeziza  ribis,  200 
Psidium,  328 

Psylla.  212;  pyricola,   212 
Pteronus  ribesii,  215 
Punicacese,  402 
Purity,  testing  for,  31 
Purslane,  402 
Pyrolacese,  405 
Pyrus    communis,    183 ;     Malus,    183 ; 

ovoidea,   183 ;    serotina,   183 

Quaking  Grass,  259 
Quamas,  267 
Queensland  Nut,  354 
Quince,  Japan,  274 ;    leaf-blight,  204 ; 
stocks  for,  184 

Raffia,  128 

Rag-doll  tester,  30 

Ragweed.  419 

Rankin,  book  by,  190 

Ranunculacese,    222,    223.    230.    239, 

267,   281,   283,   299,   307,   332,   337, 

367,  377,  408,  429,  433 
Raphanus  sativus,  407 
Raphia  Ruffia,  128 
Raspberry  anthracnose,  207 ;    yellows, 

206 
Rattle-Box,  263 
Red-Bud,  274;    Cedar,  342;    Pepper, 

387;   spider,  211 
Redwood,  419 
Reed,  243  ;    Mace,  434 


Reed,  C.  A.,  quoted,  385 

Regermination,  21 

Resedaceae,  360 

Resurrection  Plant,  230 

Rhamnaceae,  251.  272,  336,  377.  409. 

441 
Rhodanthe,  332 

Rhode  Island  Experiment  Station,  29 
Rice,  Indian,  441  ;    Wild,  441 
Ring-budding,  136 
Roberts,  quoted,  175 
Rock-Cress,  239 
Rocket,  332 
Rockfoil,  417 
Rock  Rose,  282,  331 
Rolfs,  P.  H.,  quoted.  394 
Root,  cuttings  of,  99 
Root-grafting,  119,  136.  138 
Root-grafts  vs.  buds,  141 
Rootstocks,  67 
Roripa   Armoracia,   335 ;     Nasturtium, 

439 
Rosacese,  225,  228,  234,  238,  242,  253, 

274,   275,   281,   290,   300,   308.   311. 

314,   318,   319,   335,   342,   343.   3.52. 

355,  360,  376,  380.  383.  392,  393, 
398,  403,  405,  406,  408.  411,  412. 
413.  416.  420,  421,  422,  424,  439 

Rose   Acacia,    411;     black-spot.    207; 

Christmas,  332  ;  mildew,  208 ;  Moss, 

402 ;     Mountain,    233 ;     of   Jericho. 

230;    Rock,  282,  331;    Sim,  331 
Rosemary,  413 
Rosin  Plant,  420 
Rotation  in  nursery  lands,  178 
Royal  Water-Lily,  437 
Rubber-Tree,  Brazilian.  332 
Rubiaceae.  413;    244,    258.    273,    281. 

286,   293.   316.   330.   334,   340.   352. 

356,  364,  366.  380,  387,  402,  407. 
412,  419 

Rue,  414;    Meadow,  429 

Rumex,  421 

Runner,  69 

Rush,  342  ;   Flowering.  260 

Rutace®,    245,    257.    282.    301.    302. 

310,   320,   328,   344.   346,   350,   370. 

391.  404,  414,  420.  428,  440 

Sabiacese,  359 
Saddle-grafting,  119,  144,  158 


454 


INDEX 


Safflower,  270 

St.    Augustine    Grass.    424 ;     Bruno's 

Lily.   379 ;    Domingo  Apricot,   356 ; 

John's-Wort,  337 
Salicaceae,  402,  415 
Salisburia,  319 

Salsify.  Black,  418 ;   Spanish,  418 
Salt  Tree,  330 

Sand  Myrtle.  346  ;   Verbena,  220 
Sandwort.  241 
San  Jose  scale,  213 
Sapindacese.   269,   344,  351,   359,   380, 

416,  439 
Sapotacese.  281,  353.  416 
Sarraceniaceae,  298,  416 
Savin,  342 
Savory.  416 
Saxifragaceae,  245.  248,  294,  299.  300, 

309,   315,   321,    332,   337,   340.  391, 

411,  412.  417 
Scab,  apple  and  pear,  196 
Scale,  213 

Scarborough  Lily,  435 
Schizseaceae.  230,  354 
Schizobasopsis  (Bowiea)  volubilis,  258 
Schizoneura  lanigera,  211 
Scion,  113 
Scoke,  393 

Screens,  for  seeds.  18 
Screw-Pine,  378 
Scrophulariaceae,    227.    230,    234,    265, 

272,   287,   301,   308,   318,   350,   358, 

361,   365,   380.   387.   392,   408,   414, 

432,  436,  440 
Sea    Buckthorn,     334 ;      -Kale.     291 ; 

-Lavender,  423  ;   Pink,  242,  423 
Seaside-Grape,  285 
Sedge,  269 

Seedage,  definition.  12 
Seed,  definition,  1 1 ;   testing,  24 
Seed-grafting,  166 
Seedling,  definition.  12 
Seeds,  propagation  by.  11 
Selaginellaceae,  418 
Senecio  cruentus,  282 
Senna,  Bladder,  287 
Sensitive  Plant,  361 
Separation,  56 
Septoria  leaf-spot,  200,  206 
Serpentine  layering,  72 
Service-berry,  228 


Setaria,  361 

Shad-bush,  228 

Shaddock,  328 

Shamel,  mentioned,  186 

Shepherdia  argentea,  260 

Shield-budding,  122;   -grafting,  159 

Shin  Leaf,  405 

Shooting-Star,  303 

Siberian  Pea  Tree,  268 

Side-grafting,  118,  145,  159 

Side-Saddle  Flower,  416 

SUkweed.  243 

Silver-Bell,    329;     Tree,    348;     Weed, 

241 
Simarubaceae.  224 
Sinningia  speciosa,  320 
Sium  Sisarurn,  420 
Skullcap.  418 

Slingerland  and  Crosby,  book  by.  190 
Slipperwort.  265 
Slug  on  pear.  214 
Smith.  E.  F.,  cited,  112,  190 
Smoke-Tree,  290;   Vine,  223 
Snake   Gourd.    432 ;      -Root,    Button, 

348 
Snowberry,  427 
Snowdrop,  316;   -Tree.  329 
Snowflake,  348 
Soaking  seeds,  14 
Soapberry,  416 
Soap  wort,  416 
Softwood  cuttings.  108 
Soil    diseases,    40 ;     for    cuttings.    91 ; 

sterilizing,  40 
Solanacese.    259,    274,    296.    299,    305, 

339,   353,   356,   366,   367,   387,   390. 

393,   402.   415,   417.   420.   421,   426. 

431,  432 
Solanum  Melongena,  305 
Sorrel-Tree,  376 
Sour  Gum,  368 ;   soils,  15,  44 
Southernwood.  242 
Spanish  Bayonet,     440 ;      Lime,     359 ; 

Salsify.  418 
Spawn  or  cormels,  62 
Speedwell,  436 
Spergula  saliva,  423 
Sphaerogyne,  431 
Sphoerotheca  mors-uvce,  202  ;     pannosa- 

209 
Spider  Plant,  283 


INDEX 


455 


Spinacia  oleracea,  422 

Spinach.  New  Zealand.  429 

Spircea  blanda,  111;  cantoniensis,  111; 

Reevesii,      111;       rotundifolia,     111; 

trilobata.  111 
Splice-grafting,  158 
Spore,  definition,  11 
Sporeling,  12 

Spores,  propagation  by,  11 
Spraying  nursery  stock,  191 
Spruce,  393 
Spurge,  310 
Squill,  418 

Squirting  Cucumber,  304 
Staff-tree,  272 
Stag's-Horn  Fern,  398 
Staphyleaceae,  423 
Star-Apple,  281 ;  of  Bethlehem,  376 
Stark  tree-digger,  173 
Starwort,  245 

Statistics  of  seed-production,  5 
Stem,  cuttings  of,  104 ;    -grafting,  136 
Sterculiaceffi,  315.  355.  424,  430 
Sterilizing  soil,  40 
Stewart,    Geo.,    quoted,    31 ;     V.    B., 

quoted,  190 
Stock  defined.  113  ;  florist's,  358 
Stocks  for  trees,  182 
Stolon,  69 
Stonecrop,  418 
Stools,  74 
Storage  for  cuttings,  92 ;    for  nursery 

stock,  187 
Storax,  426 
Stork's  Bill.  386 
Stratification,  35 

Strawberry  Tomato,    393 ;     Tree.    240 
Striking  of  cuttings,  93 
String  Bean,  391 ;   waxed,  171 
Stuartia,  424 

Stuart,  William,  quoted,  403 
Styracaceffi,  329,  405.  426 
Sumac,  411 
Summer  Cypress,  343 
Sundrop,  368 
Sundew, 304 
Sunflower.  23,  331 
Sun  Rose,  331 

Survival  of  the  Unlike,  quoted,  4 
Swamp  Huckleberry,  435 
Swan  River  Daisy,  258 


Sweet  Cicely,  364;  clover,  mentioned, 
23;  Fern,  287;  Gale,  364;  Gum. 
350 ;   -scented  Shrub,  267 

Sycamore,  398 

Symplocaceae,  427 

Tamarack,  345 

Tamaricacese.  428 

Tanacetum,  428 

Taraxacum  officinale,  297 

Tarnished  plant-bug,  212 

Taxaceae,  401,  428.  432 

Tea,  Labrador,  246 

Teosinte,  309 

Ternstroemiacese,  424,  429,  430 

Tester,  Geneva,  27 

Testing  of  seeds,  24 

Tetranychus  bimaculatus,  211 

Theacese,  321,  430 

Thistle,  Globe.  304 

Thompson,  C.  H.,  quoted,  264 

Thorn,  Box-,  353  ;   Christ's,  377 

Thrift,  242 

Throatwort,  432 

Thyme.  431 

Thymelajaceae,  297,  305,  394 

Tiger  Flower.  431 

Tiliacese,  288,  422,  431 

Tillotson,  C.  R.,  quoted,  51 

Tomato,  Husk,  393  ;     record    of.    26 ; 

Strawberry.  393  ;    tree,  296 
Top-grafting,  136,  151 
Toumey,  mentioned,  51 
Toxylon,  354 
Tracy  seed-planter,  47 
Trailing  Arbutus.  306 
Transportation  of  seeds,  38 
Trapacese,  432 
Tree-diggers,     172;      Fern,     227;     of 

Heaven,  224;  ^Tomato,   296 
Trigonella  Fcenum-Gr cecum,  312 
Trimming  in  nursery,  186 
Triiicum  vulgar e,  23 
Trochodendraceae,  274 
Tropseolaceoe,  433 
Tropical  Almond,  429 
Trumpet-Creeper,  268 
Tuber,  63 
Tuberose,  401 
Tubers,  cuttings  of.  98 
Tubular-budding,  136. 


456 


INDEX 


Tulip  Tree,  351 

Tupelo,  368 

Turnip,  Indian,  242;    record  of,  26 

Typhacese,  434 

Ulmacese,  273,  434 

Umbelliferse,     231,     240,     270.     272, 

278.   288.   301.   308,   312.   313,   332. 

337,  348.  364.   379,  380,   416,   420; 

seeds  of,  23 
Umbrella  Pine,  418;   Tree,  355 
Unicorn  Plant,  357 
Urticaceae,  257,  394,  397 
Utah  Experiment  Station,  31,  32 

Vaccinium   corymbosuTn,    254 ;     macro- 

carpon,  291 
Valerianaceae,  273.  289,  435 
Valerianella  olitoria,  289 
Vegetable  Oyster,  415;   Sponge,  353 
Vegetation,  definition,  12 
Veneer-budding,  136;    -graft,  144 
Veneering.  118 

Ventxiria  incBqualis,    196 ;    pyrina,   196 
Venus'  Looking-Glass.  422 
Verbenacese,    266,  270.  283,  304,  345, 

350,  390,  436,  438 
Verbena,  Sand,  220 
Vervain,  436 

Vetch,  Kidney,  233  ;   Milk.  245 
Vetchling,  345 
Viability  of  seeds,  24 
Viburnum  plicatum,   97 ;     tomentosum, 

97 
Vigna  sinensis,  291 
Violacese,  378,  437 
Viola  tricolor,  378 

Violet,  Dame's,  332 ;   Dog's-tooth,  309 
Virgilia.  283 
Virgin's  Bower,  283 
Viscaria,  353 

Vitacese,  229,  282,  322,  380,  438 
Vitis  riparia,  183 ;    vinifera,  183 ;    vul- 

pina,  183 

Wahlenbergia,  398 
Wake-Robin,  433 
WaU-Cress.  239 


Walnut,  stocks  for,  184 

Wardian  case.  40 

Water    Bean,     365;      Caltrops,    432. 

Chinkapin,  365;    -Elm.   397;  -Lily, 

367  ;  -Lily,  Royal,  437  ;   Pennywort, 

337;    -Poppy.  337 
Wax  for  grafting,   169;    Myrtle,  364; 

-Plant,  336 
Weigela,  301 
Wellingtonia,  419 
Wheat,  mentioned,  23 
Whin,  434 
Whip-graft,  double,      144 ;      modified, 

143 
Whip-grafting,  119,  138 
Whistle-budding,  136 
White  Alder,  283  ;     Cedar,    275,    430  • 

Hellebore.  436 ;  -wood.  351 
White.  Elizabeth  C.  quoted,  291 
Whitlavia.  390 
Whitlow-Grass,  303 
Whortleberry,  435 
WUd   Cane,   243;     Olive.   305;     Rice 

441 
Willow,  415;    Desert,  279 
Windflower,  230 
Wine-Plant.  410 

Winter  Aconite,  307  ;    Cherry,  393 
Wintergreen,  317,  405 
Witch-hazel.  330 
Wolf's  Bane,  222 
Woodbine,  352 
Woodruff,  244 
Woolly  aphis,  210 
Wormwood,  242 
Woundwort.  423 

Yam,  302 
Yarrow,  222 
Yellow-leaf,  198 
Yellow-wood,  283 
Yellows,  raspberry.  206 
Yew,  428 

Zea  Mays,  23 
Zephyr  Flower,  440 
Zingiberacese,  227,  229,  290.  294,  305 
330,  441 


Printed  iu  the  United  States  of  America. 


